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Found 76 results

  1. Hello Chevy and Speed Champions fans, The 1957 Chevrolet is a car that was introduced by Chevrolet in September 1956 for the 1957 model year. It was available in three series models: the upscale Bel Air, the mid-range Two-Ten, and the One-Fifty. It is a popular and sought after classic car. Its image has been frequently used in toys, graphics, music, movies, and television. The '57 Chevy, as it is often known, is an auto icon. This model is based on one of my favorite Matchbox as a child. Building instructions are available on the following links: Kit is available here: It is a studless model in the new, 8 studs wide Speed Champions style. It can be built either with fixed doors, or with openable doors. I personally prefer the fixed door version (Speed Champions style) as it is more sturdy and there are no half plate thick gaps below the doors. I minimized the use of stickers to keep the flexibility of the used parts in further builds, therefore only two standard vehicle registration plate stickers are used. My intent was to keep the width-length-height ratio of the real car and this size makes it possible. I wanted to build the model as accurate as possible in this small scale, therefore it contains lots of details: for example the brick built flame decoration, the emblematic front bumper with the vehicle registration plate and front lights, the side view mirrors and the rearview mirror, the tiltable seats etc.. Maybe the most challenging one was the brick built number on the trunk. I tried to fill every unecessary gaps and therefore some tricky build techniques are used. The model has space for two minifigures on the front seats. There are some space before the rear seats too, but it is enough only for a minifigure without legs. Thanks for visiting, _TLG_ '57 Chevy - INSTRUCTIONS 1 by László Torma, on Flickr '57 Chevy - INSTRUCTIONS 2 by László Torma, on Flickr '57 Chevy - INSTRUCTIONS 3 by László Torma, on Flickr '57 Chevy - INSTRUCTIONS 4 by László Torma, on Flickr '57 Chevy - INSTRUCTIONS 5 by László Torma, on Flickr '57 Chevy - INSTRUCTIONS 6 by László Torma, on Flickr '57 Chevy - INSTRUCTIONS 7 by László Torma, on Flickr '57 Chevy - INSTRUCTIONS 8 by László Torma, on Flickr
  2. Something I've been meaning to rebuild for years since the flared balloon pieces came out in red. The 50th anniversary of the band, and the untimely passing of bass player / vocalist Dusty Hill in July got my behind into gear. My all new, completely rebuilt ZZ Top's Eliminator Hot Rod, with repositionable band riser and billboard, plus section of highway to pose the builds on. This is a physical build, but with photoshopped decals and hole in the "P" (for now). My last version I made in 2015 and posted the old photos here when Dusty passed away. A few more shots available on my Flickr gallery. UPDATE: Now on Ideas, should you wish to support.
  3. SalvoBrick

    Vehicles in my town: updates

    Hello people! This summer I've updated several MOC vehicles in my town. Hope you'll enjoy! first, the taxi: now converted to 6-wide and a few more realistic touches; The TV van has been updated too; Tow truck totally rebuilt; more realistic look for the hot rod; total rebult for the ambulance too; Mail delivery van converted in a 3-wheeled van (like an Ape Piaggio) so it can move with more agilty into narrow streets; and finally the car transported, with updated mechanism: Hope you liked these vehicles and if you want to see more check my flickt gallery: Salvatore | Flickr
  4. Hello, I'm back in business after some years of dark age and I want to present you my new MOC, which is actualy a facelifted version of my older rat rod presented here years earlier. The model is build from scratch using current pieces and building techniques, sharing the main concept with its predecessor. Model features drag link steering operated steering wheel in cockpit, openable doors, detailed fake engine and fuel tank. I hope you will like it!
  5. Travel back 90 years in the past and rebuild your LEGO Technic 42125 Ferrari 488 GTE into this replica of 1931 Hot Rod FORD Model A. All required parts comes in the set 42125 and no additional or spare sparts are needed. If you own the Ferrari 488 GTE, you can completely build this alternate Hot Rod with no restriction. This model uses 1329 parts of the set, which are 79.3% of the parts of the Ferrari 488 GTE. Follow this link to show all pictures, renderings, 360° animation and the story about the design process of this MOC. You can find this model with instructions here on rebrickable. Features & Functions independent suspension in front and back steering with knob (in the back) engine with 8 cylinders, driven through diff by the real axle openable doors openable tailgate with lock to locate the trunk box to transport usefull things that fits inside the trunk overnight bag that fits inside the trunk lifting jack to lift up the car 41cm x 23cm x 15cm (with closed doors) Here are some impressions of the model: Box and overnight bag The model comes with a transporting box and an overnight bag. Both fits inside the trunk very vell. Lifting jack Luckily there are enough parts left over to build a cool lifting jack with locking function. You can lift up the entire car and it stays in position. Version Cabriolet The model and building instructions are designed to make a Cabrio as well. Therefore, the roof is detachable easily for a quick summer drive. Scale, Sticker & Stability The Hot Rod fits in scale, vintage style and playability with my Vintage Custom Pickup - alternate build of 42111. I have never tried this model with stickers, but of course it is buildable and could look more "racing-ish". I am excited to see the first user photo of this model with stickers applied. Some people report about problems with the stability of the Ferrari 488 GTE - be sure, this Hot Rod is designed to be solid as a rock. What makes this model special The wheels are mounted in opposite direction, which is not really common, but looks way better on this model. Unfortunately this way the rims does not fit the wheel hubs. As a reason, this model can not use the wheel hubs for mounting the wheels, but uses two of the rear hubs as the headlights. If you have already connected the two parts of the wheel hubs (the light bluish with the dark bluish one), be careful separating them. Because the model can not use the front wheel hubs, these hubs are custom brick built in a clever way and works perfect. The real car Of course this Hot Rod FORD Model A is based on the real car. Here are some pictures of the 1931 original model: Instruction You get a premium high quality PDF-instruction with 412 building steps on 259 pages with clear images. Yes, this is a 18+ set, but the instruction is easy to follow. You can get the instructions for 9.90 EUR on rebrickable. Here are some example pages of the instruction: Have fun with this model. I wish you happy building and promise an enjoyable building experience, as well cool playing and displaying. Thanks for the attention.
  6. C-Model for Creator set 31085 (Mobile Stunt Show). An oversized hot rod for stunt shows, spewing fire, going fast and loud and getting some nice air time after jumping from ramps. Features: - individual suspension for each wheel (hard front and softer rear for crazy landings) - minifig-scale cockpit with steering wheel, gear shifter and mock gauge - small but openable and functional trunk (set's wrench would fit, or maybe two pizzas?) Pictured is the render of exact .io model of the physical build (aside from the rubber band for the rear suspension) - I don't have enough space and proper lighting to make some good photos.
  7. Hello, Here is my new MOC for the TC18 competition. It is quite simple, as the main goal was to create a model reminiscent of the pre-panel Technic era. It features HoG steering, and 2 working twin V8 engines. There is also a surprise main feature: There would be no point in calling it a dragster if it couldn't pop wheelies! It is nearly done, and only requires a few more cosmetic changes and detailing. Although I don't expect it to win, it was a fun model to build, and I'd love to hear everyone's opinions on it!
  8. Finally, I decided to join to the contest - though I am still on the fence, because I need to decide if I want to buy those small tires... but damn, those just fit here like a glove. I am more into small builds recently, this one is no exception. I know, this entry will not win the contest, but maybe will be able to steal some hearts. I just wanted to create a FUN build, which has good playability, and always wanted to play around with my pullback motors. This contest seems like the perfect opportunity due to the wheel and size limitation. Let's see the ingredients: Pullback motor Hot rod Dragster Oversized engine (it is fake, I mean fully) murdered out black, killer look realistic overall proportions (except the engine) Light, as possible Put it in the shaker, and here is the first sketch, I hope You like it. Size is: 27x14x10 studs, fairly small, as some of the real ones. So far 204 pcs, I'll try to keep it max 210 pcs with complete exhaust system. And hopefully it will be able to pull some wheelies, like this!
  9. Hi guys. First time posting here and I thought I'd share some of the modifications I've done to set 42093. Now I realize that I'm late to this party. This set has been out since late 2018/early 2019 and most people have probably already made up their mind on it, modded it, left it as it is or scrapped it for parts. However I figured that as long as it had potential it would be a pity to just leave it as it is and perhaps someone else may find these modifications useful. This is going to be a rather lengthy post with plenty of details and pictures so grab a good drink, sit back, relax and enjoy. Let's start with a bit of intro. Prior to this year I was not familiar at all with the Lego range when it comes to vehicles (both System & Technic). As a car enthusiast I had plenty of mostly die-cast models of various sizes and I was always looking for that one cool model to add to the collection, but didn't think that I could find the accuracy or details needed with constructions made out of the little bricks. One day however I stumbled across a LEGO store on a lunch break and decided to go in. For some reason set 76897, Speed Champions - Audi Sport Quattro, caught my eye and I bought it. After assembly I really liked it so some days later I bought another set, the Camaro. Then another set and another and another until I saw the Corvette ZR1. It was bigger than what I already had, a Technic set which I wasn't familiar with and it was at a good discount. I also liked Corvettes, started around the time the new C6 was released in mid 2000s and have pretty much liked them ever since. So I got the set, built it and really liked it. Yes, it was indeed a bit rough with details, but overall a good effort and a great starting point with Technic. Not too small, not too big. Seeing as how I also liked the B model and wanted to improve the A as well I got another set, built both and made some modifications using some other sets I bought since. Right now my method of going about this is to have the larger sets with proper licensed cars and enhance them with parts from the smaller sets. I'm interested in adding structural strength, not having any parts that are either very stressed or at risk of easily falling off, not having any weird connections or parts that can effortlessly move out of alignment and generally adding detail where needed. With this mindset I got about modifying the Corvette and also building and modifying the Hot Rod. So let's begin. Here they are together, bad boys for life. Right off the bat you may notice that the Corvette's front is a bit different and the Hot Rod's front is plenty different from the original. For the next section we'll continue with the Corvette and then move on to the Hot Rod. CORVETTE ZR1 Here it is, pictured below next to its box. What I wanted to achieve with my modifications was fill in the details and also make it more robust if possible. The core structure has been mostly left unchanged with the exception of the rearward area to make room for wider tires. I'll detail that portion when we get to it. Right now we'll start at the front. Some of the first changes I'd like to point out here are: - extended the front lower spoiler by one stud outwards and also added more detail for the front area, especially around the headlights; - changed the gray beam with cross axle from just before the "ZR1" sticker with an orange one (rather small change but does make a difference in cohesiveness of colors); -you'll also notice the reverted and lowered rear wing but we'll be discussing that in more detail last. Another look at the front and the improved look. We have three black beams here at the nose. Two 6 Half Beams joined together on top and one 5x1 just below. At the bottom there's another 5x1 beam in orange. To the sides, just where the orange fins end I also added a pair of the black grilled elements used for vents at the rear. They look good as the real small side-fins you find on the actual car. The original 2x1 with one cross pin beams were moved from inwards to the headlights to just above the soft curved axle, to the right and the left of where the hood ends. Their place has been taken by 3x1 orange beams which fit well there and remove the original gaps one could see around the headlights. Here's a picture of the bottom to see how the front spoiler was extended. You may also note, just behind the front steering lower gray connector (Cross Block 3X2 ), an extra 5x3 L black beam. It reinforces the chassis and better connects it to the orange bottom panel as well. If you want your model to bend less this is a mod to consider. It looks so complete with it that I don't understand why it wasn't included from the start. You'll also see the 43.2x22 rear wheels. These you can find in 42103 Dragster if you're only doing the Corvette/Hot Rod or 42072 Whack if you want 4 of them so you can use them for both models. Otherwise I'm sure many of you may already have some around from older sets. In order to fit the wider tires without sticking out or rubbing internally I had to made other modifications, which I'll get to a bit later. Onto the engine bay. You can see the new gray half bushes replacing the yellow ones. Also the 1x1 Beams as cylinder sleeves. They leave plenty of space for the crankshaft to lift the pistons, they stabilize the pistons in their motion, add weight so the pistons more easily come down and they look cool. The crankshaft "cam" order was also changed to better match that of the rear car. So the new order of the cams in order from the front to the rear is: top-left-right-bottom. Originally it was top-left-bottom-right. There are a few other aesthetic changes for the engine. I filled in the gap in the beam right before the first two pistons. I used a frictionless pin, here covered with a little black cap. I also added 4 such blue frictionless pins as engine mounts, you can see a couple of them to the front of the engine. All in all I feel that these modifications make it look more like an actual motor. It's more complete and with more realistic colours. The original interior was rather sparse. Just one black 4x2 L beam with the steering wheel attached at one end. So I added a full two-tone dash with a central indicator (sort of mimics the digital real one) as well as a small central console with a red shift knob and either a beverage in a cup holder or a rotary button. Gray would have maybe been a more realistic color for the knob but I only had the red one readily available and think it works better from an attention grabbing point of view. The whole assembly is mounted to the bottom light gray beam via 2 long red push pins at the sides. I tried to replicate the original interior more, but there was just not enough space, not as it is but with also the two axles for drive and steering there and generally not many mounting points in that area at all. I also had to move the headrest mounting position. The original pieces that connected it to the doors I mounted just behind it to limit its travel. You'll also notice the black 4x2 L beams behind the doors. I used them to move the door one stud forwards. More on this just below, but before we move on I'd like to add that originally I tried to see if I could link the steering wheel with the steering axle. The fact that they would spin in the same direction when turning gave me hope but soon I realized that there was not enough space for a geared assembly and I simply did not have a proper rubber hand readily available at the time. Plus, it would have meant taking apart quite a few parts to put the band around the axle. Still, if someone has the white rubber bands that come with some sets or replacements that would work and is willing to try it out, this might be a worthy mod to investigate to get a working steering well. You could use half bushes to secure the band at both ends or ever some one sided half gears. The side view. You can see that the doors have been pushed forward one stud. This fills in the space in front of them better and moves the vent sticker starting location to a more realistic location, just before the A pillar. The vent sticker is a bit covered at the lower portion, but it's an acceptable compromise. The extension is done by mounting a 4x2 L beam just in front of the rear wheel arch. I only had one extra orange one and not two to do the other side so I opted for black, but I think it looks good and can mimic an actual vent. I also opted for a small 2x1 bream with one cross to tie in the rear wheel arch with the bottom orange 5x3 L beam. This pulls in the area above the wheel and makes it better fill that space. The connection isn't 100% perfect since the arch panel does follow the tilted angle of the rear section, but it's a strong connection and there's minimal stress on the parts. You can also see the lowered and inverted rear wing and the two mirror elements used as C pillars. I did have to "borrow" them from the Hot Rod (don't worry I put something else there in return) but I think it was worth it as they fill in the place rather well. A closer view of the rear area, where the most changes were made. We'll start off easily with a new orange 3x1 beam just between the lowered wing and the roof. Initially there was nothing here. Adding it in fills in the space much better and it's a good mount using the blue pins which are also now holding the wing. More on the wing connection later. We can better observe the orange mirror pieces, acting as C pillars. Now we go to the more significant changes. Moving the entire door one stud forward meant changing almost all connections there. To start with, the orange 3x5 beam to which it's still connected had to move one stud forward. The connection between this beam and the door needed to be preserved due to the straight angle between them, also because this 5x3 beam is the one responsible for the tilt of the entire section so there was no way to connect the door to anything else and still preserve the tilt. The door is connected to the orange L beam via the 2nd, 4th and 5th pin holes with 90 degree black connectors. The top two pin holes are used with regular black pins to hold the black 4x2 L beam. As a consequence of moving the door forward the headrest assembly could not longer be connected to it cleanly. Luckily the move did create enough space so that the headrest assembly could be mounted directly to the chassis via a couple of vertical beams. The original connectors can now be seen at its back, limiting the travel of the horizontal portion. As a note, connecting the headrest assembly to the chassis, rather than the wings does mean it's now vertical and not tilted. It works just as well and maybe even better as it offers the ability to tilt the top portion slightly. A lower view with the wheel removed. You can better see how the door is connected to the orange L beam. At the bottom of the orange L beam is a 3x3 T piece to which the vertical beams for the headrest assembly are mounted. You'll notice that now there are a couple of 3x1 yellow beams for the tilting mechanism, with the second one added at the rear, just behind the red push pin holding the roof fixed. This is a not a required change, but I found that fixing the first yellow beam between the orange L one on one side and the black one leading to the other yellow beam on the other side stabilized it, limited its travel and generally added more robustness. The black beam between the yellow ones can be 6 studs in length but I only had it in 7 studs. It worked better I think as the offset one stud at the front would stop against the headrest vertical beams, limiting an unnecessary forward movement of the whole assembly. All in all this setup works fine. There's no interference with the rest of the parts, acts as a more study mounting platform for the tilting mechanism and also fills in that rear section a bit more. Previously looking at it from one side was greeted with a rather empty space. As a last note here nothing was done to the wheel connector itself. The larger 22 wide wheel (14 initially) fits in well with just a couple of mm sticking out of the wheel arch. The wheel is connected via a 4 stud long black axle with a full bush tucked just inside of the wheel arch. It looks good and to make it fully flush with the wheel arch you'll need to modify the rear assembly around the differential which I'm not sure is worth doing also since it will make returning to the narrower tires more difficult should you ever have the need to swap them back out again. These modifications, initially made to make room for the wider wheels but also to move the doors with the vent sticker further forward to better align the looks with that of the real car did take some time to figure out but I'm very happy with the result. More work is indeed involved taking this section apart and putting it back together but otherwise the parts fit well together and also prop each other up. With these mods there's little risk of damaging the model or having connections come apart when picking it up and playing with it. The rear section. Not many modifications here. Primarily the wing has been inverted to better resemble the rear one and was also lowered by one stud. You can see the connection via the blue pins which also hold in place the 3x1 orange beam mentioned earlier. Additionally you may notice a couple of extra Cross Block 3M beams just above where the exhaust pipes end. This used to be empty space before and I didn't like it much. You may also use the regular 3x1 black beams but those are rarer and the Cross Block works better IMO with the rest of the parts there. In time maybe I can find a solution to have the taillights more closely resemble the real ones and also get rid of the pin holes from the second orange beam from the top. In theory it should be rather easy with two 1x1 and two 4x2 orange System parts (or any combination that would fill that space well), but I don't have those yet. That mostly does it for the Corvette. Apart from the changes I mentioned I also put some more blue pins in a few places to better tie down some parts but that would be a small change all in all. As for general aesthetics I may change a bit here and there but for the most part I'm happy. I think it looks reasonably better than it did originally. All in all about 50 or so extra parts (including connecting pins) had to be used. Most would be optional, but the more significant (extending front spoiler, extending doors, lowering rear wing, more details on the interior) changes would require a minimum of about 25 extra pieces. In this form the model is very sturdy, there are no parts that are at risk of easily coming off and there's only minimal extra stress on maybe a couple of parts. The takeaway here is that making room for the wider tires and extending the door proved to be rather difficult. Considering the size and the limited space there, not to mention the fact that most connections would not be traditionally possible due to the tilting of the rear portion I say the original design was pretty good. It did capture the aspect well and there were no obvious ways to dramatically improve it with the set part count. If only this would have a been a straight 600 piece set from the start I'm sure some of these changes would have been included from the start and the reception to the set would have been better initially. HOT ROD Now onto the Hot Rod. The original design was pretty good but a bit barren as plenty of parts from the A model were not used in the instructions. I wanted to really flesh it out and also give it a more menacing look. As for sturdiness, it was already sturdy enough but now it looks even more so. A big difference from the original would be in the front area. I kept the headlight stands, but removed the headlights and instead added the panels used for the Corvette's taillights. The yellow indicators are from the 42103 Dragster set and the four headlights from 42104 Race Truck or 42088 Cherry Picker (only has two though, but plenty of other useful parts). Where the headlights would have been mounted I added a couple of pieces which can resemble proper "get out the way, move b..." horns. I also added a proper front bumper, a bit Mad Max style since I didn't like how exposed the steering assembly was initially. The bumper side pieces are from the Cherry Picker and the central bit from the Dragster. Here's a frontal pic. I think it resembles a praying mantis and that I find quite appealing. A three quarter view. Important modifications would be the wider 43.2x22 mm tires, just like for the Corvette. This was much easier though. I had to use some slightly longer axles and half bushes a their ends so they wouldn't look strange sticking out from the wheels like that. The engine got the same treatment with the cylinder sleeves represented by 1x1 beams. I left the yellow half bushes as pistons. For one they fit this model better, second I don't have enough gray ones to fit here and also fit to other models where really needed. There's also a couple of extra fins between the exhaust and the original, longitudinally mounted fins. There's another picture below better showing the setup. Another addition would be the side-mirrors, which I'm not 100% sure about. They look like mirrors but are a bit too bulky for my taste. Right now with the leftover parts I don't see an obvious, much better solution and would rather not spend some of the more exotic ones. With the setup as it is though the mirrors remain well in place and have a decent range of motions. A closer look. The second pair of orange wings are attached via a Cross Block piece. That piece is linked at the rear with a Beam 1X2 W/Cross And Hole which connects the black 4x2 L beam you see on top with another orange 6x1 beam at the bottom. An interior screenshot from the other side posted below shows more. I also replaced the black exhaust endings with silver ones from the Dragster. They look much more like real exhausts now. The side view. You can start to better see the extra seats in the interior and an extra wing added at the back. Interior time. I added a full length dashboard rather than the original 3 stud wide beam only meant to hold the steering wheel. There's a single instrument right in the center as would have been the case originally for many such old cars. I also added a floor mounted shifter. The part is 6553 Catch and has a red bush on top for a knob. We also have two seats mimicking gray and black fabric (or leather for the more pretentious kind). They're three 5x3 L beams. They're linked to the middle assembly there via black pins going though the center of what would be the seat bottom. I also put an axle though though the first pinhole to better secure them together. Here you can also better see why the mirrors don't look fully fine. I'm missing the smooth face pieces to connect to get rid of the studs on them but for now I have to make do. I suspect I should get them or find a better altogether alternative before too long though. Here's a photo from the opposite angle, showing better how the seats are connected. No changes further back of the seats. Also, as they are, the seats cannot be moved further back as they'd interfere with part of the opening top portion and the yellow axle acting as a reinforcement for same portion. Onto the rear. The extended rear wing came because I wanted to fill in the top and actually ran out of the original length parts. So I had to place some extended beams instead and saw that it gave me just enough space to mount a couple of small wings. They worked out just fine and also allowed me to attach indicators and taillights. I think it looks cool like that, like a mini-truck cab that had been used for the body instead of a smaller vehicle's cab. Finally, here's a bottom pic. There are no structural changes here. You can see a couple of beam colors swapped at the front, the floor mounted shifter next to the central axle and the wide rear tires. Nothing rubs, nothing clashes, all work well together. That's pretty much it. Right now the models are fit enough to be proudly displayed alongside my die casts. I'm sure that as I get more parts I may even swap out a few details or colors for certain parts. Small details aside the original designs were pretty much nailed when it comes to proportions for such a (small) scale. It's a pity they couldn't add a few extra pieces here and there to fill some of the empty spaces a bit more. Anyway I don't see how much more could be done for this scale. Any gearbox or motorization added would either alter the proportions or at the very least get rid of the interior as we've already seen with some mods for this set. For me though, at this scale, I'd prefer interiors and details as these models will remain assembled as display pieces. Next on my list would be to build some of the larger sets (to help me get through the COVID-19 quarantine boredom) and will use the spare pieces from the smaller sets to buff and add details to them. I've done the Defender, next should be the Chiron and maybe then the Car Transporter. The plan is that by the time I'm done with that I should have enough experience and spare parts to build my first custom (MOC) car to put on its platform next to the blue car (which will be modified to better resemble a real life car). With that I do hope that some of you will find value in these modifications. By all means, if you're still interested in this set try them out and if you get stuck at a certain point and don't know how I did a certain modification let me know. I'll gladly help out.
  10. RyszardBosiak

    [MOC] Hot rod

    Hello! Simple hot rod car and piece of street. I'm loving set LEGO Hot Rod Club 6561, so I thought that will be nice to build similar car. Enjoy :) hotrod_11 by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr hotrod_10 by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr hotrod_8 by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr hotrod_7 by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr hotrod_6 by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr hotrod_5 by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr hotrod_3 by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr hotrod_2 by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr hotrod_1 by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr Best Regards
  11. BendCityAuto

    Bend City Auto Garage

    Hi, I'm new here and still trying to figure this all out! I wanted to post pictures of my project but only very low resolutions can post here. I am linking my Lego Ideas page and Flickr for better images. Flickr Photosteam Lego Ideas Project Page
  12. Hello everyone, I made this pick-up almost two months ago (before I joined Eurobricks) and I would really like to hear your thoughts about it. It is 50 studs long, 28 studs wide, 15 studs high and weighs 1285g. Motorized and remotely controlled - 2L motors (driving), stereo motor (steering), 8878 battery, V2 IR receiver. Front tires from 8070 supercar, rear from 42000 Grand Prix Racer. Working V8 fake engine with some details to make it resemble real V8 engine, connected directly to the driving motors - works at the same speed no matter what gear you choose (in neutral also). Suicide doors with working door handles, Rear doors and roof window can be opened. Fake fuel tank and chrome stripes in the cargo area. Power is transmitted to the rear wheels through 4 gears manual gearbox. Leaf spring suspension with height-adjustable rear (manual with levers in the cargo area). Working turn signals (front and rear) - connected to a servo motor via coupled PF switches. Working steering wheel. Other details and functions that I would like to point out: Retractable license plate (simple manual mechanism). Lights (front and rear) manually controlled with a lever behind steering wheel - connected to a speed dial of 8878 battery (on/off and low/high beam). Working radiator fan, connected directly to a V8 engine. Video of functions: Video of driving outdoors (added 14 August 2014): More photos can be found at: MOCpages - Flickr - I hope you`ll like it…
  13. SpinX125

    [MOC] Hot Rod Garage

    Small build i have been working on. Hot Rod Garage 1 by Thomas Mouridsen, on Flickr 2 by Thomas Mouridsen, on Flickr 3 by Thomas Mouridsen, on Flickr 4 by Thomas Mouridsen, on Flickr 5 by Thomas Mouridsen, on Flickr 6 by Thomas Mouridsen, on Flickr 7 by Thomas Mouridsen, on Flickr 8 by Thomas Mouridsen, on Flickr
  14. bamsham363

    [MOC] VW Repair Shop

    A new home for my VW Collection, be it old or new or rodded, enjoy
  15. I mainly build Technic C-Models, but I also enjoy Creator alternatives, so here's what I built out of set 5763. In the photo, hot-rodder sigfig is added for scale and reference). Features: ► minifig scale (with adjustable steering wheel) ► openable and adjustable canopy-cage with roll bar ► rear suspension (individual for each wheel) ► details such as engine with radiator and twin turbo, lights, steering wheel, twin exhaust and rear view mirrors Browsing through OLX (online marketplace fo classified ads) I found old (2011), used 5763 for a price of a new small, ~50 piece set. I liked how the set contained big wheels and offered possibility to build suspension, so I bought it right away. Only one super-cheap plate was missing, so it was a nice deal. The MOC Alternative uses almost every part from the set. As you can see, the build came out quite clean:
  16. I really like the two-seater TRON Legacy light runner MOD that was made by BrickBrosUK and posted on Brickset last week. I just love it's ingenuity and style while only using parts from TRON lightcycle set (number 21314). So, I made my own version and now, it even flies with a hover car modification. (AKA fold down wheels) It may be a far cry from the blue / orange bikes that was in the set, but I think with the new printed trans-red dish from the TIE micro fighter from this year's Star Wars range as tire rims, it could be even better when built in real life. The round 2x2 tiles in red are supposed to have this print. The diamond-like pieces are the car's headlights. The rear of the car while in driving mode. This vehicle has a steering wheel, something the original alternate model lacks due to part constraints. Flight mode, with the wheels turned down. This model would fit in rather nicely with my cyber punk models, although they are not set in the TRON universe. As usual, comments, questions and complaints are always welcome!
  17. Hello, I’m Kevin, 32 years old from Willebroek, Belgium. I’m now building a Castle themed setting which is nearly finished. My latest MOC is this Custom truck, I finished this in late November 2017. The car is based on a 1930 Ford Model AA truck with custom chassis, RWD drivetrain, suspension and several other details. I tried to incorporate as many technical details as I could. Since it’s brick built, those technical details don’t work, they are esthetical except for steering.. More on Flickr
  18. The Takehito Yamato Coupé I saw this classic Hot Rod on Chop & Roll magazine few months ago and I was stricken by the uncommon colour (PPG 1936 Cordoba Tan) and by the smooth design of this Deuce. Plus its story was really cool: built in California and shipped to Japan where its new owner lives. Japan has a thriving hot rod scene, and many cars have been bought and shipped there. This coupe, however, is the first being built to order then making the trek across the Pacific. Takehito Yamato contacted Walden Speed Shop, based in Pomona Ca., after seeing his works in The Rodder’s Journal. Takehito wanted a traditional hot rod, and while that may be essentially what he ended up with, the details are what really sets this coupe apart. Inspired by the Takehito Yamato history I built the tan Deuce with all the details you’d expect to see in a brick-built scale model. To complete the work I built a brand-new show-room full of vintage stuff. Below the broken-down view showing the red Chevy ZZ383 with aluminium heads in all its glory. Below the Deuce with the magazine where I read about its story. More info and pictures on my flickr Thanks for stopping by.
  19. It isn’t easy seeing Hot Rod or T-Bucket where I live and honestly I was never interested about Kustom Kulture world (I did not even know what they was ...). Then I saw some models of other international LEGO builders and I was impressed. I like a lot the "T-Bucket", built on the basis of the 20's Ford T with a custom frame and a big V8 engine. While I was waiting for some pieces from some Bricklinkers to make a new large MOC (I’m going to share it as soon as possible…), I built my sixties style T-bucket (during the ‘14 Christmas holiday). Here it is. Below my T-Bucket in californian style, with a Deus ex Machina surfboard on the seat... My LEGO T-Bucket has the two-seater body of a ’23 Model T roadster with a back turtle deck (inside there is the gasoline tank). A Model T radiator is fitted and a powerful Chevrolet V8 small-block with a Supercharger send power to the big rear tyres. The body and the turtle deck can be separated by the chassis and you can see the transmission. One of the detail I prefer are the exhaust pipes made by 4 mm hoses. It hasn’t been easier push four hoses inside the “Tree Palm Trunk”… It was fun to build it and it surely will not stay alone… As usual on my flickr stream you can find out more info and pictures... I wait for you there... Follow me also on Norton74 brand new facebook page. All the best! Andrea - Norton74
  20. Finally, I got myself to build a 42050 C-Model out of the second set I bought purely because I liked the A-Model too much to tear it apart. Had some general ideas, but couldn't decide between a Hot Rod and Dragster, so I built both in one package. It has a hidden function of "adjusting the stance" which is purely for style and, if exaggerated, makes the car, uh, "un-dragable", but some moderate amounts of adjustment make for nice change of style. Features: ► V8 engine with moving pistons ► twin carb adorned with velocity stacks + hood tach ► radiator + cooling system + front lights ► ribbed hose headers and dragster-style Zoomie exhausts ► rigid transmission w/o differential ► steering connected to HOG ► cockpit with a (non-functioning) steering wheel, dashboard and gear shifter ► adjustable "stance" ► wheelie bar (adjusted with stance) ►namesake "Lightning Rods" in the back of cockpit for decorative purposes
  21. Greetings fellow Mortals! Halloween comes creepin around the Corner and all those Monsters,Creeps,Ghosts and Ghouls are coming from the Underworld in our World to feast on tasty Treats, scare Mortals for Fun and Party like the rotten Corpses from a thrilling 1983s Music Video. Most of them are okay with floating,crawling or lumping all the Way,but some undead Folks prefer a more comfortable Mode of Transportation. The mysterious Gentleman we see here in the Driving Seat obviously prefers a powerfull and somewhat monstrous Chariot with a huge blown Engine that might even wake up the Dead. The Gearshifter has a mysterious Ruby embedded (i bet it just hides the NOS Button) and on the back a huge and impressive Coffin is carried around. Probably just his Unmentionables inside but who knows....whoooo! IMG_20171030_183743 IMG_20171030_183806 IMG_20171030_183816 IMG_20171030_183831 IMG_20171030_183843 IMG_20171030_183905 IMG_20171030_183930 IMG_20171030_183952 IMG_20171030_184008 IMG_20171030_184145 IMG_20171030_184206 Well,i wish you a happy Halloween Season and i hope you like my seasonal MOC.
  22. Norton74

    [MOC] Art Déco Gas Station

    Fill 'er up! My latest build is a jump into the glory days of gas stations, when full service and free oil changes were the rule and the local station was a gathering place for neighbors. My brick-built gas station is inspired to the Shell one located in Tucson (Arizona) and it’s packed with every details you’d expect to find. It showcases an elegant Art Déco architecture completed with curved corners, a tower in the middle, a red outline all around the station and the inevitable Shell writing on top. The build is three in one: the diner on the left, the garage/workshop on the right and the fully-equipped store located in the middle of the building. A look at the back of the station reveals the three locations with many details and the different characters. Outside there are two period gas pump with a beautiful Lego shell on top under a curved canopy. All around you can find tanks, signs, tyres and other stuff. To complete the work I've built a red stepside pick-up truck, a tan Hot Rod and a reddish-brown roadster with some troubles (it's housed in the garage indeed). It was on my wishlist long since and finally I've found the time to built it as I had in my mind. I'm sorry for posting my gas station here with a little delay Thanks for stopping by. More pics and info: flickr
  23. Hey everyone, + + ^^ That's basically my TC12 entry. A yellow chopped hot rod with tracks and giant claws in the back. Features: Huge crushing claws in the back to use on racers who get too close small missiles that shoot from the claws Tracks in the back from 42069 Track-wrapped wheels in the front a huge V8 from 42050, with added flame-spitting exhaust pipes HoG steering So hopefully that shows how it got it's name. The model isn't finished. I have placeholders right now for the claws, which will be these pieces: I have to order the pieces for the sides of the body. The side that is yellow will be changed, and the side that is red will be changed to yellow. The chassis is not yet symmetrical, due to changes during the building process. Now for the pictures, so you can see everything I'm talking about. Sorry for bad quality, there was bad lighting in the room so I turned to my go-to filter to make the pics look better. ^^Here you can see the linkage for the crushing function. Another reason I've made this as a WIP topic is to get feedback to help guide the completion of this model. So tell me what you think! Thanks for reading, and have a great day!
  24. soccerkid6

    MOC: Evening at the Beach

    Another build for ABS Round 2.1, in which the seed part was the red bucket. This build started off with the hot rod, and I then decided it needed a bit of setting and sand seemed like a good choice. After that, a sand castle seemed an obvious choice for an extra use of the seed part. And the car does roll smoothly. More on brickbuilt. Thanks for looking
  25. Some of you may be familiar with the Hob Rod, the project I was doing on and off throughout a few years. The idea was to pull a hot rod with some nice functions and details while keeping it in a ~35 stud size. Various other things and issues made it a long term project and I have no doubt this baby will be improved even further. Well, here's how it looks now. 37 studs long because of the exposed rolling chassis arms, uses Technic and System parts as you can see. Intended as a cruiser and salt flats racer - and a small tribute to the Kustom Kulture - it's based on the '30s trucks and features many details that won't let you forget about that. Raise Hob. Features: ► fake mountain V6 engine with moving pistons ► blower with chain-driven pulley (1:1.5 crankshaft-pulley ratio; 1:3.501 axle-pulley ratio) + Enderle-style bugcatcher + fake carburetor + external tachometer and oil pressure gauge ► working differential and transmission (2.334:1 crankshaft-axle ratio) ► coupled '30s style link steering connected to steering wheel and a HOG ► detailed cockpit with a steering wheel, dashboard, custom skull-shaped gear shifter and comfy channeled couch for two ► channeled and chopped body style with kustom roofline + functional bed with Moon tank ► classic radiator grille and "zoomie" exhausts, front tow bar and rear push bar and rear engine emergency shut-off lever ► locking suicide doors with internal handles and slanted edges + locking, chain-suspended bed gate ► exposed suicide front axle + wide, fake leaf spring-suspended rear axle, each wheel with fake drum brakes