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Found 716 results

  1. [MOC] Batman's Batmech

    Hello from France Guys ! I'm Bricks Feeder and it's my Fourth topic on Eurobricks! :) Today, I show you my MOC of the Batmech!! It's based on the Justice Buster and the batbot of the batman Series (2004). I think It's a cool building to play and It's very compact! It has twin Red Sun knuckles for Superman! BIG EDIT (19/08/2017) The final construction has 260 pieces. The Building instructions are available for 5 € on request (Message / Mail). PDF and part list (excel files). I used LDD and Blueprint. Rebrickable : https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-9391/BricksFeeder/batmech/?utm_medium=email&utm_source=approvemoc#comments My Other MOCs : ITT : [MOC] ITT (Imperial Troop Transport) from SW Rebels TIE Advanced Prototype : [MOC] TIE Advanced Prototype (aka Inquisitor's TIE) from SW Rebels A-Wing (McQuarrie / SW Rebels Design) : [MOC] A-Wing (McQuarrie / SW Rebels Design)
  2. In this topic you can ask help if you don't find a piece in LDD. You can also ask here about any doubt regarding part IDs, duplicate parts and the use of a specific part present in LDD. Before asking, try the hints listed below. Ensure that the Extended Mode is active The extended mode allow access to all the bricks included in LDD in each colour. To activate Extended Mode go to: Menu -> View -> Theme -> Extended Mode . . . [Image] Use the Search Field The search field is the textfield above the Bricks Palette. . . . [Image] Enter there the ID of the brick you are looking for, or any plausible word that could identify the brick you are looking for. Note that the IDs and the descriptions in LDD are the official LEGO ones, and could differ from those you can find consulting other sources such as Bricklink, Peeron, etc... Check the work of other users As last resource, check the index of the Official LEGO Sets made in LDD topic looking for the sets that uses the part you need. If you find it you can select it and read its Design ID in the bottom bar, then easily find it using the LDD integrated search function. Other Useful Tools LDD Part Finder (beta) Could be you can find useful this little software developed by the user DrFalken. You can find more informations here. Bricklink and LDD Manager If you know a set that uses the brick you are looking for, you can: - Obtain the part ID from Bricklink - Use the "Brick Finder" function in LDD Manager to convert the Bricklink ID to the LEGO Element ID Otherwise you can use LDD manager function "Search for attributes". Old related topics: Where to find these pieces in LDD Finding a dinghy in LDD CMF Decorations in LDD 4.3.6, Series 1-9 ...
  3. I propose to keep here an up-to-date ldraw.xml, the file used by LDD to convert to and from LDraw files. Download: latest version On Windows: download and replace the one in “C:\Program Files\LEGO Company\LEGO Digital Designer\” On Mac: download and replace the one in the “Contents\Resources\” folder in the app (open “Applications” in Finder, right click on the “LEGO Digital Designer” package and select the “Show Package Contents” option to explore the pakage folders). (Thanks manglegrat!) If you have other modifications or additions, post them here or send me a personal message and I’ll include them to the benefit of all. If you need a part, feel free to ask here and I’ll try to add it (provided it exists in LDraw and LDD). History and Contents It’s based upon gallaghersart’s latest version (see this thread). It includes the modifications shutterfreak published in his thread. It uses some of the LDraw unofficial parts (mainly for new parts in LDD Brick version 2075). It includes some name corrections (because LDraw renamed or moved some parts, added new variants, etc.). I tried to more accurately convert the colors (now mainly according to Ryan Howerter’s conversion table). It’s not easy because all sources (Swooshable, Mecabricks, Ryan) don’t agree, and there are holes and overlaps. But as these differences, holes, and overlaps occur for rare colors or colors that aren’t available in LDD, it should be okay. In a megalomaniacal way, all the entries I have modified have an “SLS” at the end of their heading comments. New entries have an “SLS” at the front of the comments. So it’s easy to know when to blame me. As of 2016-09-16 and the big overhaul, I assume all the errors. Know Limitations As of LDD 4.3.9, flex parts (hoses) are not exported anymore (even unflexed). Minifig arms and hands are not connected in LDraw. I don’t know whose geometry is off (both?) but the shapes differ a lot. At least, hands are correctly connected to whatever they clip and arms are correctly placed in their sockets and somewhat wrap around the hands’s stems. Some variants are not recognized by LDD (e.g. clips, or tiles with/without groove, etc.) In those cases, I prefer to use the most recent variant in LDraw as it generally is easier to find and cheaper. Sometimes, several LDD parts correspond to a unique LDraw part. Sometimes, the transformation is accurate for one variant but not for another. For example, the Flag 2 x 2 is known to LDD as 2335, 11055, and 60779, but LDraw only has the 2335 variant. 2335 and 60779 use the same transformation but 11055 is vertically offset. I preferred to badly convert 11055 to 2335 rather than not convert it at all or badly convert 2335 and 60779. ldraw.xml is used both ways (LDD to/from LDraw). It’s not something I do frequently (too many resulting collisions) so it’s not well tested. One problem I can see is that, when several LDD parts correspond to a unique LDraw part, the conversion that’s listed last is the one that will be used. The reverse (first written is the one used) is true for assemblies that use the same subparts, in the same quantity (like electric cables). A lot of LDraw parts are simply wrong. Almost all the parts that combine System (studs and anti-studs) and Technic (pins and axles, and their holes) are wrong in that they assume the technic holes are at the same height than side studs (on the picture below, the circles are concentric). LDD assumes the holes are 0.2 mm (0.5 LDU) higher. In ABS, the holes are 0.12 mm (0.375 LDU) higher (dixit Jamie Berard in his famous presentation). In order to limit the number and magnitude of errors, LDD is considered to be right. How to write a new transformation for a part in ldraw.xml What? ldraw.xml is an XML file that defines how LDD can export to (or import from) LDraw files. It does so by defining a match between the part’s IDs and how to rotate and translate the part from one geometry to the other. Matches are defined by “Brick” XML elements. For example, this one says to LDD that the Brick 1x1 that it knows as 3005 is also known to LDraw as 3005: <Brick ldraw="3005.dat" lego="3005" /> (Note the “.dat” in the ldraw ID.) Matches are not needed if the part IDs are the same: the transformation element is sufficient for LDD to know the part exists. (So the example above is useless ) Rotations and translations are defined by “Transformation” XML elements. This one says to LDD that the Brick 1x1 just needs to be moved up: <Transformation ldraw="3005.dat" tx="0" ty="-.96" tz="0" ax="1" ay="0" az="0" angle="0" /> The translation (tx, ty, and tz) is in centimeters (0.8 cm is the width of a brick, 0.96 cm its height). The rotation is given by its axis (the line passing through and ), and its angle in radians. And all the coordinates are in the direct (“riht-handed”), Y points up, coordinates system of LDD. The transformation explains what should be done to import from LDraw besides changing the axes (LDD’s Y is up and XYZ is a direct basis, LDraw’s Y is down and XYZ is an indirect basis; so changing the axes only means changing the sign of Y). So, in an LDD to LDraw point of view, the transformation is reversed: it says what happens to a part if you don’t do anything to its coordinates besides changing the sign of Y. In other words, the opposite transformation has to be applied to the LDD coordinates of the part in order to get the LDraw coordinates (with Y reversed). Why? Each part has an orientation (which way up? which way left?) and a center, point of origin, or reference point (we’ll use “reference point” from now on). But LDD and LDraw don’t always agree. To know the orientation and reference point in LDD, insert the part without rotating it nor attaching it to any other part. It will be aligned along the scene’s axes (LDD’s axes). The reference point is near the mouse pointer’s head. To know the orientation and reference point in LDraw, I find LeoCAD the easiest tool: just select the part and its axes are drawn (X red, Y green, Z blue), starting at its reference point. Okay, LeoCAD’s «X, Y, Z» is LDraw’s «X, -Z, Y» but what’s another little change of basis? Sometimes, their disagreement is trivial. For example, for the simple 1x1 brick (3005), both LDD and LDraw agree: the stud is on top and the reference point is on the vertical line going through the center of the stud. But they differ for the height at which the reference point should be: LDD says it’s at the base of the brick, LDraw at its top (but at the base of the stud). (On every picture, X will be red, Y green, and Z blue.) So the transformation for that part is straightforward: if the LDraw part is imported as is, with only Y reversed, it will end up 0.96 cm (the height of the brick) higher than it should. So we have to lower it by 0.96 cm: <Transformation ldraw="3005.dat" tx="0" ty="-.96" tz="0" ax="1" ay="0" az="0" angle="0" /> Sometimes, their disagreement is more profound and the transformation is therefore more complicated. For example, for the musket (Minifig Gun Musket 2561), LDD puts the reference point in the handle and “up” means the handle is vertical but LDraw puts the reference point in the barrel and “up” means the barrel is vertical. Even more, the stock is on the wrong side, so X and Z are different too. With an identity transformation, the part is rotated by an eighth of a turn (X to Y) (π/4) around the Z axis to put the barrel vertical, and then by a quarter turn (X to Z) (-π/2) around the Y axis. After that, it has been translated up and horizontally. After calculations (see below), we’ll end up with this transformation: <Transformation ldraw="2561.dat" tx="0" ty="-1.72" tz="0.336" ax="-0.3574067443365933" ay="-0.8628562094610169" az="0.3574067443365933" angle="1.7177715174584016"/> How? So, how do we find the right values to have the correct transformations? What’s the ID? Having the right part Check the ID of the part in LDD. Check the ID of the part in LDraw. Beware of variants, LDraw uses a letter suffix (a, b, c…) where LDD totally changes the ID or keeps the same ID for new variants. Don’t hesitate to look on BrickLink for the part ID: BrickLink keeps a list of alternate IDs (when the same part has several IDs) and links to variants and notes. If the IDs are the same. Nothing to do. If the IDs differ. We add a Brick element: <Brick ldraw="123a.dat" lego="456" /> Don’t forget the “.dat”! That was the easy part. Which way is up? Finding the rotation axis and angle We start in LDD. Up is Y, or Y is up. X and Z are a bit harder to see on the LDD scene unless you use LDD’s developper mode (which has the LDD axes drawn at «0,0,0» as red X, green Y, and blue Z lines). Or, if you’re sure you didn’t move the camera in a brand new model/file, X is pointing bottom right, and Z bottom left. We place our part among other parts that we know will be correctly converted (like 1x1 plates, or harpoons ) to have references. Using different colors greatly helps! We export to LDraw… … and look at the results: We decompose the transformation in multiple simple rotations, around the X, Y, or Z axis. If it has been turned around X, a quarter turn from Y to Z is a positive π/2 angle. If it has been turned around Z, a quarter turn from X to Y is a positive π/2 angle. If it has been turned around Y, a quarter turn from Z to X is a positive π/2 angle. To make it short, it’s a direct (right-handed) basis. If you can’t figure out the problems with an existing transformation, “clear” it by using an identity transformation: <transformation tx="0" ty="0 tz="0" ax="0" ay="1" az="0 angle="0"/> (All zeroes but one of the a_ which is 1.) You can try each simple rotation one by one to be sure of their angles (especially their signs ). Beware, combining rotations change their axes (e.g. turning around first X then Y is equivalent to turning around first Y then Z). So if you check that the Y rotation is okay, then the X rotation, don’t forget to combine them as Y then Z. For the musket, we need two rotations: an eighth of a turn (π/4, 45°) around the Z (blue) axis that puts the barrel vertical, and then a quarter turn (-π/2, -90°) around the Y (green) axis. Or we can first make the quarter turn (-π/2, -90°) around the Y (green) axis, and then an eighth of a turn (π/4, 45°) around the X (red) axis. Remember, “import”-wise, we’re trying to find what should happen to the part in the LDD scene to be like the LDraw one, with the LDD axes (the harpoons ). My head is turning. Combining rotations If more than one simple rotation is needed, we have to combine them. For that, we’ll use quaternions. Eh come back! That’s not that difficult! A quaternion q can be written as q = a + b.i + c.j + d.k, where i² = j² = k² = i.j.k = -1 (so i.j = k = -j.i, j.k = i = -k.j, k.i = j = -i.k). a is the real part, b.i + c.j + d.k is the imaginary part. A rotation by the angle angle around the axis «ax, ay, az» is the quaternion q = cos(angle/2) + sin(angle/2).(ax.i + ay.j + az.k) Do note the 1/2 factor on the angle! To combine two rotations, we just multiply their quaternions and apply the rules above to end up with a a + b.i + c.j + d.k form (or, more accurately, a C + S.(ax.i + ay.j + az.k) form, where C and S are cosine and sine of the same angle and ax² + ay² + az² = 1 ). If we rotate first by q and then by p, the result is the rotation by p.q. Note the order: q then p is p.q. Multiplication is not commutative with quaternions: if you do it the wrong way, you’ll end up with the correct values but the wrong signs. There’re lots of fun to have with quaternions and rotations as quaternions. But what is said here is sufficient for our purposes. An example: Most of the times, we do π/2 rotations (quarter turns, 90°). angle = π/2 therefore cos(angle/2) = sin(angle/2) = cos(π/4) = sin(π/4) = √2/2; So, for a “horizontal” quarter turn (yaw, around Y): q = √2/2 + √2/2.j (as j/Y is the “vertical” axis). Let’s combine it with a half turn (π, 180°) around the X axis (IOW, upside-down): cos(π/2) = 0, sin(π/2) = 1, so p = 0 + i p.q = (0 + i) . (√2/2 + √2/2 j) = √2/2 i + √2/2 i.j = 0 + √2/2 ( i + k ) Now, let’s get the resulting angle: The real part of p.q, 0, is the cosine of angle/2. 0 is also the cosine of ±π/2 (±90°). Therefore, the resulting angle is π (180°). Now the axis, «ax, ay, az»: It’s the √2/2( i + k) imaginary part. That’s the vector «√2/2, 0, √2/2». We need to remove the sin(angle/2) factor. That’s easy as the sine of π/2 is 1. So our axis is «ax = √2/2, ay = 0, az = √2/2». Written in ldraw.xml: ax="0.707…" ay="0" az="0.707…" angle="3.1415…" Another one, a quarter turn around Y and then around X: q = √2/2 + √2/2 j = √2/2 (1 + j) p = √2/2 + √2/2 i = √2/2 (1 + i) p.q = 1/2 (1 + i) (1 + j) = 1/2 + 1/2 (i + j + k) We rewrite it as p.q = 1/2 + √3/2 (√⅓ i + √⅓ j + √⅓ k) to have a unit vector (ax² + ay² + az² = 1) in the parenthesis and to clarify the cosine and sine: 1/2 and √3/2. They are the sine and cosine of π/3 (60°). Therefore, the resulting angle is 2π/3 (120°). In ldraw.xml: ax="0.577…" ay="0.577…" az="0.577…" angle="2.094…" Back to our musket: An eighth of a turn (π/4, 45°) around the Z axis that puts the barrel vertical: q = cos(π/8) + sin(π/8).i = C + S.k Then a quarter turn (-π/2, -90°) around the Y axis: p = cos(-π/4) + sin(-π/4).j = √2/2 (1 - j) p.q = √2/2.(1 - j)(C + S.k) = √2/2.(C - S.j.k - C.j + S.k) = √2/2.C + (-√2/2.S.i - √2/2.C.j + √2/2.S.k) Wow! Hum, okay. So √2/2.cos(-π/8) is the cosine of half our angle. Get the calculator out… angle/2 = Acos(√2/2.cos(-π/8)) = 0.8589 Our angle is 1.7178. We “remove” the sine of angle/2 from our vector, so that p.q = cos(angle/2) + sin(angle/2).(ax.i + ay.j + az.k): ax = -√2/2.sin(-π/8) / sin(0.8589) = -0.3574 ay = -√2/2.cos(-π/8) / sin(0.8589) = -0.8629 az = √2/2.sin(-π/8) / sin(0.8589) = 0.3574 As an exercise, you can verify that ax² + ay² + az² = 1. So we did it right! Et voilà: ax="-0.3574067443365933" ay="-0.8628562094610169" az="0.3574067443365933" angle="1.7177715174584016" One step to the left. Getting the translation right Now that the part is correctly oriented, it may need to be moved. The translation is in centimeters (cm). 20 LDU = 0.8 cm. Values are often multiples of 0.4 (half a stud) for tx and tz and multiples of 0.32 (height of a plate) for ty. Other, finer, tunings are often in multiples of 0.008. If the rotation is complex, all bets are off In LDD, we try to place the part so that its LDraw up axis ends up up in the scene, and we try to align its LDraw X and Z axes with X and Z of the scene (at least, that it is not rotated by a weird angle). That way, moving the part along its axes is also moving the part along the scene’s axes. It will be easier for getting the translation right. For our musket, that means the barrel up. (I didn’t align the X and Z axes here because, yeah, I’m a warrior, I don’t need that. Besides, you’ll see what happens because of that. ) Again, I find it easier in LeoCAD: the key bindings, the coordinates clearly shown in the status bar, etc. The thing is, LeoCAD uses a direct Z up basis. So if you move «dx, dy, dz» in LeoCAD, you’re moving «dx, -dz, dy» in LDD (and vice versa). Confusing? Noooh. Anyway, choose your own poison but beware of its little quirks. To help fine tuning, using transparent colors greatly helps, especially for clip-bar connections. Now, we note the coordinates of our part in our LDraw editor and move it so that it ends up the way it should. We look how much we moved it. That’s it! Just convert it to cm (= LDU × 0.8 / 20) and we have our translation. Well, mostly, the signs are wrong. Remember: the transformation is what should happen to the LDD part to end up like the LDraw part, we just did the opposite and moved the LDraw part to be like the LDD one. Besides the signs, if you didn’t correctly align the axes, you’ll have to find which is which For our musket, we need to go up and sligthly to the “left” (from bottom right to upper left when your LDraw view is oriented as a new LDD file, as are all the screenshots here). That means negative dy and dx. But as the part is not aligned on X and Z (but still not badly rotated), the negative dx becomes a positive dz. Et voilà! <Transformation ldraw="2561.dat" tx="0" ty="-1.72" tz="0.336" ax="-0.3574067443365933" ay="-0.8628562094610169" az="0.3574067443365933" angle="1.7177715174584016"/> (So, okay. I had to try first tx then tz, both negative and positive, before I found the right one. But I didn’t want to have to remake the pictures! There: I’m not a warrior, I’m just lazy.)
  4. Thanks to the open source SunFlow rendering system, i'm able to present: Bluerender A rendering engine for Lego Digital Designer. How it works: You just open the LXF file with Bluerender and click the big Render button. Optionally, you can choose an output png file and do a "preview" render: it will render the model in wireframe (useful for testing and framing your model). A set of default settings is provided that should looks good for most renders, but you can tinker with the scene description to use the full power of SunFlow. Rendering is fast, a 1024x768 image usually take no more than five minutes on average pc. This project came about as an experiment when i discovered that i could integrate SunFlow into Blueprint code with minimal effort. It's by no mean a competitor to Povray, which is slow but ultra-high quality, professional renderer. Features: Renders models, even big ones (tested on 12k piece models) Completely customizable scene Use camera settings from lxf file, so you can just frame your model in LDD. Support for LDD decorations and decoration substitution Limitations: many :P Documentation: A wiki is available with plenty of documentation. Using the renderer with default settings is quite simple. If you want to customize light, materials etc, you can change the scene description, simply edit the included scene.sc file. The syntax of the scene description is that of Sunflow and should be easy, there are some examples inside. Anyway some documentation is available here (note: it may be a little outdated at times). You can optionally have a custom scene file for each model: simply copy the scene.sc file and name it like your lxf model (for example, if you have spaceship.lxf, create the file spaceship.sc, in the same folder of course). You can override LDD decoration with your own adding lines like this in your scene file (the number is the decoration ID): ##CHANGEDECOR 59879 c:\path\to\custom\mydecor.png Issue Tracker: Have any bug or feature request? Be a good fellow and report it in our shiny issue tracker. Requirements: Java8 (revision 8u40 or better) Lego Digital Designer Disclaimer: Use at your own risk, i decline any responsability for anything that may happen to you using the program. Download: You can download Bluerender vers. 0005 here. Flickr Group: You can add your renders to the official Bluerender Lego Rendering group. Running on Mac: Some people were able to run Bluerender on Mac. Try the following instructions: Remove all java installations Install Java, but not from Oracle, from Homebrew instead. What's HomeBrew? I've no idea, but you can try following these instruction. Open a command prompt/shell/terminal, cd to the folder where you unzipped Bluerender Enter the following command: java -cp "bin/*" bluerender.BlueRender If the program manage to start, it will ask you to locate the db.lif file, you should find it here: /Users/USERNAME/Library/Application Support/LEGO Company/LEGO Digital Designer/db.lif Special thanks: to Bublible for his help with the renderer. to Jackalope for his help testing the app on Mac. to Fabrizio for his precious time as beta tester. Screenshot: Example Output: (these models are taken from the web, not mine) More examples can be found here. Here you can find a 3027x2304 render of a 12000 parts model, took about 30 minutes. Changelog: 0005: Black is now real black #93 Glass is now lighter #82 (thanks to bublible) Implemented bublible chrome materials #73 (thanks to bublible) Corrected NPE with invalid color codes (default to white) #86 Implemented aliases parsing and caching #81, #68 360° rotation renders #71 can now place light with transform{} blocks #72 (thanks to bublible) overwrite and other options are now persisted #64 basic parameters are now in the app #65 changed default background to white 0004: Janino shaders now work Automatic aspect ratio Overwrite without asking checkbox No longer "forget" some flexible elements Correct background color reflection for mirrors (no more black) 0003: Model loading is fast again (even faster!) Some textured glass support (not perfect yet) Clickable scene label (opens the scene file) Self adjusting plane height Search file in db folder beside db.lif Bugfixes 0002: remembers last used folder ask before overwrite use a single scene.sc file instead of three files for setup, materials, lights scene files are not shown on the program anymore (was more confusion than anything) optional per-model scene file LDD decoration support custom decoration support 0001: initial release
  5. Hello from France Guys ! I'm Bricks Feeder and it's my first topic on Eurobricks! :) I show you my third version of my MOC of the ITT (Imperial Troop Transport) seen on the SW Rebels series. This MOC has the dimensions of the mining's scale with 1174 bricks. => Almost 21cm (L) x 10,5 cm (W) x 9cm (H) I'm trying to build a "cool" Interior of the cockpit. I'll continue to work on it. I am not satisfied yet ! I'll show you my advance and if I can, the real one! If you have some ideas or constructive criticisms, share with me please! I want to upgrade my skills! :) Enjoy and have a nice day! P.S. : If you have the time... Check my You Tube Channel! ;) My previous version can be seen in this video.
  6. This is a forum for user palettes meant to help build in LDD. User Palettes must be reasonably able to help LDD users to build custom or official sets within the program. So for example you can not post a "user palette" of just one brick. Otherwise just post your lxf files and browse through to find any user palettes you may find helpful. For those unaware to install a user palette go to Computer/C:/Users/(you user name)/AppData/Roaming/Lego Company/Lego Digital Designer and add the folder "UserPalettes". Save any user palettes there and you can find them in LDD under the "Filter Bricks By Boxes" button on the lower left hand side. The button will have a picture of a Lego box on it NOTE: The AppData folder will likely be a hidden folder, to find it in your explorer browser select tools then folder options (or just options) and select the View tab scroll down the list until you see the option "Show Hidden Files, Folders, and Drives" and select it. Click on Apply and AppData should show up.
  7. Hey everyone, The people who know me know that I do always stuff with Lego trains. While I'm designing a fully automated container terminal, I want to upload some non-train related animated episodes. Since some of the scenes will take place on the surface of Mars, I need to build a Martian surface display. But I lack time and eye for detail so I came up with the idea of making an LDD design contest of it. If you are interested in participating, have a look at the video below!
  8. I'm in the middle of learning Blender, but I stumbled upon Poliigon and was blown away. I'd really like something to aspire to once I've got a grasp on the basics, so has anyone tried applying a Poliigon texture to a Lego render of any sort?
  9. Hi All Long time reader, but first time topic starter :-) Thank you for a great forum. I need some help getting started - I love to build, but lack talent in designing the models. How did you begin when you first started building your own models using LDD? I have decided to create a double sized Lego Yoda using LDD. My initial plan was to hire someone on this forum to help me, but I understand this is not allowed :-) I want Yoda to be roughly 130cm from head to toe. He has to be able to stand on his own unassisted Has to be in one of the poses linked below: Do you guys have any ideas? Cheers
  10. Anyone made Simpsons Brick Headz before? Here, I made Homer Simpson!
  11. [WIP LDD MOC] Imperial Endor Bunker

    Hello, everyone! Today I give you a work in progress model that i am compiling in LDD. Based on the Imperial Bunker on Endor, which is key in keeping the Death Star II's shields up, this set has around 650 pieces total as it currently is. It also includes the satellite as seen in the movie. Features include collapsing walls, opening doors, rotating seats, and rotating turrets. No minifigures are included right now, but I expect to add more when the final model is completed. I'd love to hear your thoughts, comments, criticisms, etc. The pictures I use are created via Bluerender, a fast, free, simple rendering program.
  12. I present to you the back bone of the Rebel Alliance – the GR-75 Rebel Transport: After having tweaked and tweaked for my last MOC (Medical Frigate) and built a fleet of fighters and smaller ships for it, I wanted to build something bigger - but in the same scale. I chose the beautiful, organic looking 90-meters long, Rebel Transport. The Medical Frigate can be seen here: http://www.eurobrick...pic=129607&st=0 http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=131170 The Transport is the workhorse of the Rebel alliance, transporting equipment from base to base. The ship can house dozens of odd sized containers kept in place by strong magnetic locks. The Transport, like so many other Rebel ships, have a very organic and beat up look – getting this look right was the biggest challenge when designing the moc. The scale of the model is 1: 250 meaning it is built at 2 meters per stud. Thus the Transport is 45 studs long. Building the most detailed 45 stud version of the ship was my main goal. Based on pictures of the movie model I calculated the width and curvature of the ship – I fired up LDD and began building. What I ended up with was an 850+ brick model made up of 150+ brick types: The Transport takes flight! Front view. In this picture the curvature of the ship is very pronounced. To my luck the range of curved bricks fit perfectly with curvature of the ship. When placed along a central spine they further underline the lines the Transport has across the hull. Don’t mind the small hole in the front – one of the hinges is slightly too bent. Top view. I have mostly used white 1 x 4 curved slopes to get the proper shape. However, to get the dirty, rugged look of the ship, I have mixed in a number of different colors and other curved slopes. The Cargo. The GR-75 can carry a LOT of containers. Creating this part of the ship was kind of a chore but also very fun. At this scale I had just enough resolution to attempt recreating every single cargo container and detail from the studio model. I found a picture of the model showing the bottom up and began mapping every container pipe and greeble I could. I recreated it all with bricks of matching colors, pipes, taps and odd shaped pieces. The end result matches the haphazard stacking of the studio model – I’m glad I put the magnetic locks in place… :) Containers from the back. As with the Medical Frigate, one of the challenges was creating a sturdy non-interfering stand. With this ship one of the stands is placed in the middle of the containers. However I did not want to sacrifice even a single compartment so I found a workaround using transparent wall pieces. The slim piece is fitted snugly in between a number of containers and is just connected via two studs – but it seems to hold :) Container close up. They are all there :) Starboard profile view. This angle reveals the slight sloping of the hull towards the rear end of the ship. The curving effect was achieved by a number of plate hinges and four sections with slightly different angles. Port profile view. The profile views show the gap between the top and bottom hull plates. This gap has a jagged effect on the studio model – conveyed here by 1 x 1 and 1 x 2 plates. Side detail. Yes, there is actually detailing in the narrow gap between the hull plates. Again, the greebling is based on looking at the studio model – and on what was possible in such a small area :) Engine view. As always, one of my favorite parts of a ship. Getting all the engines to fit in there was a bit of a challenge. Rear view. As the Transport flies out of focus the uneven surface is again evident. The Transport has a very small command/deflector module - the little thing on top of the spine. To be in scale this module should actually be about half a stud smaller – even smaller than a B-wing cockpit section. However, the 2,5 stud test I did, did not look very good :) Lastly a scale comparison with the Medical Frigate – and the rest of the rebel fleet :) Thanks to all the supporters of the Medical Frigate project, you have helped make this model possible! Everyone can get the LDD for the Rebel Transport here: https://www.dropbox..../GR-75.lxf?dl=0 Enjoy and please comment!
  13. Before you read any further: I want to give massive credits to RenegadeClone (or his brother.. or both.. it's confusing) for coming up with this great MOC and leaving enough instructions for me to reconstruct the model. My version is 90-95% the same and I can only take credit for making the model and some small differences in detail (I'll get to those later). RenegadeClone's done a great job. You can find the original topic here. Having said that, things are easier to build when you have an LDD file. A small introduction I'm Krispy. I've been lurking here for a while, taking in ideas and techniques. Now that I've started building again, I figured it's good to share. I'm a big fan of Star Wars universe starfighters, but only the classic trilogy and the stuff after that. I love space sims and "Tie-Fighter" in particular; I've wasted half my childhood on that game . And now I've decided to collect Lego version of the starfighters from that universe. In minifig-scale. I was a little bummed out that TLG doesn't have a proper B-Wing set. Bummed out until I found RenegadeClone's MOC. The Model B-Wing v1.1 by Krispy's brick stuff, on Flickr There she is, rendered using LDD2PovRay. Total part count: 951. Ouch. There are small differences with the RenegadeClone's original; most concern the cockpit: The cockpit is all light bley; this meant using some different parts The rear cockpit section (with the curved slopes) is completely different in internal construction. The slopes are now attached using 3 stubs making the use of rubber bands unnecessary (I dislike rubber bands). The pilot now has a seat (in dark green!). Flying a B-Wing is tough enough without the physical discomfort.... or so they say. The internal structure of the main wing and the engines is different. I only knew the outside dimensions, so I had to reconstruct them on my own. Internally this B-Wing is probably rather different. Below you will find all the files you need to source the parts and make the model. The LDD model is made using LDD 4.3.5. The partslist spreadsheets was made using LDD Manager, but I've added some extra columns to keep track of the parts that you have ("Have" column) so you can see which bricks you still need. For those of you who don't do LDD, I've exported the instruction to html and put them in a zip; they should work on any browser. The Files The LDD file: v1.0 / v1.1 Partslist (v1.0): XLSX (office 2010) / ODS (openoffice) Building instructions in html (v1.0): link LDD file of the display stand: link If you want to figure it all out yourself, stop reading and start building. Below I've posted some notes on sourcing the parts and building the model that you may find useful though. Sourcing the parts Please note that there are a small number of rare-ish parts used in the model, so check if you have these or are able to order them before you start your Bricklink frenzy: Large hard plastic wheel in classic grey Wedge 4 x 4 (Slope 18 Corner) in light bley; you'll need 4 Most parts in sand blue 4L bar in dark grey/dark bley; dark grey shouldn't be too hard, but dark bley is rarer 8.5L Hose in classic grey Also note that if you need to source almost all parts (like me; my lego is older, so I only have classic grey), this beast will set you back considerably. It has almost 1000 parts. By my estimation I've spend somewhere between €100 and €120 on parts (about $125 to $140). It's not cheap. If you use LDD Manager to check if you can do other colours instead of sand blue, you will only find a small number of basic colours. This is due to this brick. If you want to know what your real options are, paint this brick black in the model. If you are having trouble sourcing sand blue parts (I'm looking at you fellow europeans), dark bley offers a good alternative though your model will look more like the UCS B-Wing that way. Building considerations It's possible to build this model using the LDD generated instructions. I've done so, proving they actually work, but they are a bit weird and unlogical. The LDD model has been grouped in to logical groups, so you might want to check those. As reference, I've rendered a picture showing these elements. Minifig-scale B-Wing v1.0 in parts by Krispy's brick stuff, on Flickr Below I will note some things you want to look out for. Engine covers by Krispy's brick stuff, on Flickr Build these engine covers seperate and add them to the model later (after step 180 or something). Engine (build this first) by Krispy's brick stuff, on Flickr That means you want to build this engine part first. Exhaust close-up by Krispy's brick stuff, on Flickr Note that the technics half pins do not go in all the way. That's not a bad thing though: you now have the option to add a 2x2 dish giving your exhaust the same look as the offical TLG sets (eg. the 9493 X-Wing). Technics tubing not in instructions by Krispy's brick stuff, on Flickr Note that this piece of pneumatic tubing is not on the LDD model. The holders are though; look at the completed model (all the way below) to see where it slots between the two torpedo launchers. Fix for curved plate problem by Krispy's brick stuff, on Flickr I had a problem with the narrow 1 stud wide cover plate for the rear of the main wing: it curved outwards (to the left in this picture) because a 1x12 plate I used wasn't straight!! Using this modification at the bottom of the assembly, I was able to hold it in place. Cockpit axle mount thingy in place by Krispy's brick stuff, on Flickr Notice that I used old school connectors with studs on the side. This means the model is a bit sturdier on top (also I have, like, tons of these parts). Cockpit section by Krispy's brick stuff, on Flickr Cockpit with seat. Notice that the headrest has two 1x1 dark bley plates instead of one in the LDD model. This depends on what helmet your minifig pilot is wearing. Build complete! by Krispy's brick stuff, on Flickr Build complete! It's big, it's heavy. If anyone has suggestions on a stand that works for this beast, I'm all ears. I hope you've enjoyed this little write-up. Good luck and happy building if you're going to attempt one... trust me, they are worth the effort: the build was definitely one of the most challenging I've done so far! update 13-01-2013: A stand I've updated the files section with a LDD model of the stand I came up with (see picture below). It's bulky, but sturdy and allows you to show off the model with open s-foils! Stand - front by Krispy's brick stuff, on Flickr update 19-01-2013: version 1.1 I've updated the model to 1.1. Grab the new model file from the files section above! What is different you may ask? Well, there's somewhat less studs on the outside of the model. Oh... and the lower part of the internal skeleton has been redone completely. It definitely feels more rigid now. Check out the differences below! Even if you don't want to update your model with loads of tiles, I would recommend redoing the skeleton. B-Wing v1.1 Skeleton update by Krispy's brick stuff, on Flickr
  14. Assembling Bricksburg

    edited to put all final images in the first post... After seeing the LEGO movie, I wanted to re-create buildings from Emmet's neighborhood. While researching, I realized a great deal of what was in the movie was based on previously-existing sets. I thought it would be interesting to do a project that compared the original LEGO sets to the modified movie versions. Knowing how much time, money, and physical space it would take to build these out of real bricks, I decided to try my hand at LEGO Digital Designer (LDD). After having created a couple of the buildings in LDD, I ran across the post for Bluerender and used it to generate photo-real renderings. Here are my results: .lxf file: http://www.brickshel...logo_final_.lxf The latest image posts: Nathan Sawaya's Oscar statue from the 2015 Academy Awards. The latest WIP of Emmet's Mech (with BlackStar): .lxf file: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Xon67/Movie/movie_emmetsmech_2017-07-20.lxf Emmet's apartment Emmet's apartment interior How Emmet fits a 50-stud-wide apartment into a 30-stud-wide building: A variation on Emmet's apartment (green with a slanted roof) Pet Store (right) Pet Store (left) Plumber Joe's apartment .lxf file: http://www.brickshel...the_plumber.lxf Condemned building Fresh Fruit market Sherrie Scratchen-Post's apartment Emmet's street Emmet's street in micro scale Fire Brigade .lxf file: http://www.brickshel...ire_brigade.lxf Fire Brigade tower (original) Fire Brigade Tower (updated) Filling Station Garage Street Corner Rooftop garden 1 Rooftop garden 2 An example of the reuse of building parts Warehouse 1 Warehouse 2 (Fire Brigade) Mega Green Grocer Bricksburg Castle Bricksburg Castle back Cafe Corner / hotel with clock tower Fish (market?/restaurant?) Office(?) Building Office Building Church It's not mentioned in the images, but the the ice cream cart in this image, the giant Green Grocer, and the "fish" building comes from 10211 Grand Emporium. Cheese Slope building Fire Brigade Radio Station Plaza with Bob's Kabobs Here are some Bricksburg accessories from the Movie, including garbage containers, rooftop details, a street corner, billboards, and the mosaics from the "fish" and "fresh fruit" buildings, including the LDD file, for you to use in your own MOCs: lxf file: http://www.brickshel...accessories.lxf Condemned building Condemned building Ma and Pa Cop's house Highway Overpass Monorail stop Skyscraper ground level The Coffee Chain Skyscraper 1 Skyscraper 2 Skyscraper 3 Skyscraper 4 Skyscraper 5 Skyscraper 6 Skyscraper 7 Downtown: Flying cranes Downtown: Larry's flying coffee machine Skyscraper under construction 1 Skyscraper under construction 2 Construction site Small cement mixer Tipper Truck Cement mixer Dump Truck Crawler Crane Instruction Tube Large crawler crane Instruction Holder Building cranes Building crane Construction helicrane Brick sorter Front end loader Back hoe Heavy loader Rush hour traffic Small car Public transportation, monorail, and Surfer Dave's car SUV Small van Delivery truck Police cruiser SWAT van Octan HQ micro scale upper floors Octan HQ micro scale Octan HQ from Finn's basement Octan HQ minifig scale Lord Business' relic room Octan corridor with MetalBeard and Benny Octan sound stage--news conference stage Octan sound stage--80s-something technology Octan sound stage--Where Are My Pants? Octan DJ booth Octan Executive Conference Room The many moods of MetalBeard MetalBeard's strong, virile body MetalBeard's "Down on the Farm" form Mrs. Scratchen-Post's kitty sled lxf file: http://www.brickshel...post_sleigh.lxf A Christmas tree assembled by The LEGO Movie Master Builders Emmet's snow sculpture Mark Mothersbaugh's LEGO energy domes from the 2015 Academy Awards Awards given to all Emmet Awards nominees More on the way!
  15. Sorry if this has been posted before, but now do you bend flex axles in ldd? Thanks in advance! Aventador2004
  16. [Rules of the Topic] [Statistics] - - - - - - - - - - [Not Indexed Yet Entries] [Themes A-C] - - - - [Themes D-M] - - - - [Themes N-S] - - - - [Themes T-Z] [Begin of the entries] - - - - - - - - - - [Last Update Point] Rules of the Topic (Please read these guidelines before posting) Here are some guidelines created in order to help to maintain this topic well ordered and help to built the index! Allowed Sets Set that has been officially released by LEGO and available for the purchase. Set whose Official Instructions has been released from TLG and are available in LEGO website. IMPORTANT NOTE: if building instructions or set's references are not easily available on common sources, please report that. The Set have to be constructed using official LEGO instructions and not interpreting preliminary or official images. The Set have to contain something you can build. Sets with scattered parts or single or few minifigures are not allowed. Irregular Posts Important NOTE: Irregular entries (inserted in posts that don't respect the Topic's Rules) won't be indexed. When you fix an irregular post, inform the indexer, so that he can update the index database. Good habits Avoid unnecessary posts inside this topic, if possible. Always use a new post to add new entry/entries. Don't add (or remove!) models to any existing post. If you think to build more sets in a short period of time, don't post them one by one but amass a bit of them and then post them together. Try to avoid to post more than one time in a single day. For any question/explanation/request/communication contact the indexer using private messages, when possible. Use of images in the topic [Guide] Only images related to posted sets (and then lxf file) are allowed, as a preview. Only one image for each set is allowed. Don't quote images from other posts. Any other image can be inserted as text link. Images should be simple and clear: no "creative" images are allowed, but simple screenshots. Avoid compositions (more images in one), images with another image as background, animated images, 3D images, renderings with external software, image with custom added parts, etc... Try to place objects inside the image so that the image results compact (i.e. avoid internal large blank space if possible) but clear. Try to place the camera so that the set results well visible. Avoid flat framing but choose a good 3D angle. As images are for preview purpose only, should be not too big! Maximum size allowed is 512x512 pixels for big sets (such as castles, modular buildings, stations, large space ships, etc...). Use intermediate sizes (for example 448px, 384px, 320px, ...) for smaller models. The 256x256px size or lower is often good for small sets. Crop images completely removing horizontal and vertical blank stripes around the subject (zero-pixles margins). Insert a model Report set's data and emphasize that in bold. Set's data include set Number, set official Name and set's Theme and subtheme if any. For example: 5988 - Pharaoh's Forbidden Ruins - Theme: Adventure If the set has more "configurations" (different models), please specify which one you are reproducing with LDD (Model A, Model B, etc...). NOTE: Alternate Versions (official different configurations for the same set) are counted as separate sets. If the set has been Re-Released with an identical or similar version, report the alternate Set ID(s). Report both the version of LDD and the brickset used to build the model. Insert a screenshot of your creation, in order to provide a preview. One screenshot for each set (see the rules about images above). Report if the model is complete or some piece is missing or replaced by a custom solution. Don't divide a single set in more than one post. Put a single set in a single .lxf file. You are encouraged to use LDD groups function to separate different elements in complex sets. LDD model should be similar to the original model as much as possible. Include minifigs, if any. Replace missing decorations with suitable ones, if possible. Modified models are welcome, but in different .lxf files, as an "extra". Every personalization (personal logos, additions, changes) makes a model a "Modified Model". and obviously... Share you lxf file! Update a set Update the post where you originally inserted the set. Report the update in the Upgrade Topic. Be care to follow the rules of the Upgrade Topic. [Sets created by other users] If the set has been built by another user, contact him and ask him to update his entry. Provide some help, if you find a way to solve some issue. If contact model's builder is not possible or he don't want to update it, insert the updated model in a new post as if it is a new model, but specify it is an update and insert the link to the original model's post. Inform the indexer before posting. Book or Request a set Refer to "Official Lego sets - Book, WIP, Requests" Topic. NOTE: you can ever choose to make an already made or booked set, if you want. Besides You are encouraged to inform an LDD file maker if you notice an adjustable defect in his/her LDD file! If you notice something wrong in the index, please report it to the indexer. If you use custom pieces to replace missing bricks in LDD, please post it in the "LDD custom bricks" Topic! Rules in brief Read the rules before posting here. Only regular entries will be indexed. Allowed sets: instructions officially released, no spared parts. Report references if necessary. Insert a model General rules: don't split model in more posts, don't add or remove entries to an existing post, group entries. Don't add personalizations to the model (except in order to replace missing parts). Use Groups. Extra are allowed, as text links. Necessary content: Set's Data, Image, LXF File, Error List. - Set's data: Set's ID, Set's name, Theme/Subtheme, alternative model (Model A, B, ...), alternative Set IDs if any. - Image: one for each entry, simple screenshots, maximum size 512x (big sets), crop, not scattered, no flat view, PNG with Alpha channel. - LXF file: one for each entry, direct link, report LDD and brickset version. - Error List: missing bricks/decorations, replaced brick/decorations, brick made replacements. Various: minimal quotes, don't quote images, report errors. (index/other entries).
  17. Inspired by the Speed Champions cars. Last year I built a car showroom to show them off. Al's Autos is built on 3 large baseplates. On the left baseplate the blue and white sign has doubled sided brick plate writing and rotates on a Technic turntable. The showroom has a roller door entry behind the office on the left. It is fully tiled inside and lit with PF LEDs. On the right baseplate the brown turntable also rotates on a Technic turntable. The footpath is designed to match up to the Modular footpaths. My own creation cars are a Pick Up truck with removable Camper. A Ford GT40 reverse engineered from a LEGO YouTube movie. The black Pontiac is a KITT replica and has a working red LED scanner in the front. Next was a service centre / workshop for the showroom.The back section is a parts department. On the right are two service bays. The front one has a working Technic pneumatic hoist. Also PF LED lighting. The shipping containers can fit a Speed Champions car or spare parts. To keep the cars clean I next built a car wash. This has a working Technic based linear actuator to move the brushes back and forward over the car. So after a long day. It's off to the Drive In movies. The diner has a projection room, kitchen, counter, seating and toilet. My own creation cars are two NYPD police cars with working light bars. A yellow NY taxi. The two Porsche 911's are modified with brick headlights and door handles. The ambulance has working LED light bars, headlights and taillights One day I will get around to doing close up and interior photos.
  18. [Digital Render] Malum (Bionicle) by Artemiy Karpinskiy, on Flickr “Once you fall into my claws, it’s all over.” — Malum This model is a birthday present to my good friend Zippy. * * * If you like what I do and you want to see me create your OC, a favorite Bionicle Character, or something else, feel free to look up my Commission Info! I also run a Patreon page, so please consider supporting!
  19. 3DVIA Printscreen can be used to capture LEGO Digital Designer models and save them as 3DXML files. (While it was officially discontinued years ago, it can still be downloaded from the web archives - here's a direct link to the installer if that page doesn't load.) However, there aren't many programs that can load or convert 3DXML files, which made using them rather impractical. So I decided to make a program to directly convert 3DXML files to OBJ. At the moment, only geometry is exported, no materials or textures - but I intend on adding those later once I've taken a break from working on this. Note that these converted models are primarily useful when you need to render LEGO models in realtime - for games or other interactive things, where polygon/vertex count is of more importance. LDD automatically removes hidden studs, tubes, etc, and its brick library was built with realtime rendering in mind, so these models come out far more suitable for realtime rendering than those from other systems or brick libraries. You'll still likely want to make further optimizations to them (it doesn't remove all the hidden faces, and you may want to merge more meshes together than LDD already does to cut down on draw calls), but it sets you much further ahead in the process than you'd be otherwise. Download Source code on GitHub If you've come across this topic looking for a general purpose 3DXML converter, please note I've only built this with 3DVIA Printscreen's captures of LDD models in mind. Compatibility with 3DXML files from other sources/of other programs will likely be inconsistent. Here's how to use it: First, you should know that when 3DVIA Printscreen captures a model, the position and rotation of LDD's camera are applied to the geometry of the model itself. To avoid your model being rotated/positoned awkwardly, save your LDD model as an LXFML, then open it in a text editor. Near the beginning of the file you'll see a line that goes something like this: <Camera refID="0" fieldOfView="80" distance="42.865413665771484" transformation="0.92090564966201782,0,-0.38978543877601624,-0.16088704764842987,0.91084080934524536,-0.38011109828948975,0.35503247380256653,0.41275793313980103,0.8387984037399292,15.218622207641602,17.693035125732422,35.955448150634766"/> Replace it with this: <Camera refID="0" fieldOfView="80" distance="0" transformation="1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0,1,0,0,0"/> This will place the camera directly at the origin of the model with the correct rotation. Then open your modified LXFML in LDD, and without moving or rotating the camera, capture it with 3DVIA Printscreen. Note that 3DVIA Printscreen must be launched before LDD for it to work, and you will also have to disable high-quality rendering in LDD's preferences for models to be captured correctly. (Tip: If you have developer mode enabled in LDD, pressing K disables studs, Shift+K disables the interior of tubes, Q disables the outside of bricks, and Shift+Q disables the inside of bricks. You can use this to isolate or remove those parts of the model in your capture, if need be.) Now that you have your 3DXML, place it in 3DXML to OBJ's "Models" folder, and launch the program. Enter the name of the 3DXML in the text box (it doesn't matter if you add ".3dxml" to the end or not). You have two options for exporting: Export with welding: 3DXML captures are highly inefficient with their vertex usage; every triangle always has 3 vertices of its own whether identical vertices already exist or not. This option welds duplicate vertices together, which can take some time on larger models but has dramatic results: The model of 6074 Black Falcon's Fortress in the screenshot below is reduced from a 16.5 MB OBJ with 320859 vertices, to an 8.18 MB OBJ with 109973 vertices, with visually identical results. Export without welding: For if you want to convert a large model in less time, and don't mind the duplicate vertices. Whichever option you choose, your model will be exported to OBJ in a new folder with the same name and location as the 3DXML. You will also be shown the model within the converter - click with any mouse button and drag to rotate the camera, or hold left shift or ctrl to pan. (As mentioned earlier, materials and textures are not read/exported yet, but I will be adding this functionality sooner or later. For now, textured meshes have a checkerboard pattern.) If you have a large model, there is a chance it will contain a mesh too big for the converter to render. This converter was built in Unity, as it's what I have the most experience with... But, Unity cannot directly render meshes with more than 65534 vertices or triangles, and unwelded models are especially likely to have meshes that cross this limit. This does not affect the exported OBJs, only the model as you see it within the converter. It's technically possible to work around this, but I'm not sure if it would be worth the effort. If your model has decals, you will get two OBJ files, one with "UV" added to its file name. This stems from how decals work within LDD: When you add a decal to a piece, it doesn't texture the piece's mesh directly, but rather adds a new textured mesh in the same location, overlapping the existing one. The second OBJ contains these additional, textured meshes. Also, you'll notice that LDD often combines bricks of the same color together, and removes hidden studs and tubes. Whether you find these to be useful optimization features or problems will probably depend on what you want to do with the model. Finally, here's the castle OBJ imported into Blender. Enjoy, and please let me know if you hit any problems, have suggestions, etc!
  20. Hello everyone! So i am seeing that a lot of bricks / colorways are missing from the LDD program - So an example would be that 1x2 bricks i cannot get the colorway or the pattern way "masonry" Anyone who can / know to fix this problem? Thanks! :) Best Regards, Mads
  21. Hello AFOL's, i want to show you my new Moc of the Pelta-Class Frigate from Star Wars Rebels. It has Parts: 5722 Lenght: 122cm Width: 86cm Height: 27cm Building Time: 2 Days I would be happy for feedback.
  22. Hi everyone. I took some time to show you guys how to enable LDD's developer mode and all the tings it can do. Here are a just a few examples of the things you can do in dev. mode: You can render bricks in wireframe: You can use the various rendering modes to show the collision objects of the bricks and color them in some trippy colors: And the best thing of all, you can DISABLE COLLISIONS in order to place bricks in almost any manner: I made a short video on how to unlock LDD developer mode and all the other things you can do with it here: I hope you guys find this info useful and save yourself a lot of work when LDD's collisions give you a headache
  23. update 2013-07-30 I've finally managed to brick build it! I've included some studio shots below. Also there's a little pointer on getting the angle of the cones to work. Finally, I've also updated the model file, as I found some errors in the 1.2 version. ---------------- I've been taking a break from building, but there was one model I haven't yet posted. I was going to do a topic after I brick-build it, but seeing as that might take awhile, I've decided to post the model file anyway. Also someone has already brick built it using my model file; I'm fairly confident that this model will work in real bricks. Disclaimer Like the B-Wing, most of the modeling was done by others, mainly Jerac and Scott34567. I've merely modified the base model to take full advantage of the parts from TLG's #75003 A-Wing model. Also some optimizations were made. So, without further ado: here she is! Studio shot 1 by Krispy's brick stuff, on Flickr Studio shot 2 by Krispy's brick stuff, on Flickr Jerac/Scott A-wing - v1.2 by Krispy's brick stuff, on Flickr Jerac/Scott A-wing - v1.2: Lego®-Vision by Krispy's brick stuff, on Flickr You can find the LDD model file here: v1.4 Building tip: inserting a pneumatic T between the cones and the round brick helps the side to keep its shape. How to angle the cones by Krispy's brick stuff, on Flickr Happy building!
  24. Here is version 1 of the TIE Silencer based on all of the revealed photos and taking some design techniques used in the official Lego set primarily to use the printed pieces. It looks like the hull should primarily be dark gray but The printed hatch that comes with the lego set looks to be black... I'm still tweaking a few areas and playing around with the distribution of black and gray on the hull. Shout out to RebelBuilder, as used some great techniques on his early model based off of just one leaked photo (I kind of like his design better than the official design) Screen Shot 2017-07-26 at 23.15.23 by James Eilers, on Flickr Screen Shot 2017-07-26 at 23.15.45 by James Eilers, on Flickr Screen Shot 2017-07-26 at 23.16.00 by James Eilers, on Flickr Screen Shot 2017-07-26 at 23.15.34 by James Eilers, on Flickr Screen Shot 2017-07-26 at 23.30.36 by James Eilers, on Flickr Screen Shot 2017-07-26 at 23.31.11 by James Eilers, on Flickr
  25. I couldn't find one, so i'm looking to create a thread for "custom" lego stickers (and by custom i mean stickers on pieces other than their intended one.) I made a custom pallete of these, and thought it would be useful for others. Keep in mind, this was originally intended for personal use so some pieces may seem obsolete. But here it is anyway! If anybody else has any to share, feel free to post! LDD "Custom" Stickers Some Examples