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  1. [Rules of the Topic] [Statistics] - - - - - - - - - - [Not Indexed Yet Entries] [Themes A-C] - - - - [Themes D-M] - - - - [Themes N-S] - - - - [Themes T-Z] [Begin of the entries] - - - - - - - - - - [Last Update Point] Rules of the Topic (Please read these guidelines before posting) Here are some guidelines created in order to help to maintain this topic well ordered and help to built the index! Allowed Sets Set that has been officially released by LEGO and available for the purchase. Set whose Official Instructions has been released from TLG and are available in LEGO website. IMPORTANT NOTE: if building instructions or set's references are not easily available on common sources, please report that. The Set have to be constructed using official LEGO instructions and not interpreting preliminary or official images. The Set have to contain something you can build. Sets with scattered parts or single or few minifigures are not allowed. Irregular Posts Important NOTE: Irregular entries (inserted in posts that don't respect the Topic's Rules) won't be indexed. When you fix an irregular post, inform the indexer, so that he can update the index database. Good habits Avoid unnecessary posts inside this topic, if possible. Always use a new post to add new entry/entries. Don't add (or remove!) models to any existing post. If you think to build more sets in a short period of time, don't post them one by one but amass a bit of them and then post them together. Try to avoid to post more than one time in a single day. For any question/explanation/request/communication contact the indexer using private messages, when possible. Use of images in the topic [Guide] Only images related to posted sets (and then lxf file) are allowed, as a preview. Only one image for each set is allowed. Don't quote images from other posts. Any other image can be inserted as text link. Images should be simple and clear: no "creative" images are allowed, but simple screenshots. Avoid compositions (more images in one), images with another image as background, animated images, 3D images, renderings with external software, image with custom added parts, etc... Try to place objects inside the image so that the image results compact (i.e. avoid internal large blank space if possible) but clear. Try to place the camera so that the set results well visible. Avoid flat framing but choose a good 3D angle. As images are for preview purpose only, should be not too big! Maximum size allowed is 512x512 pixels for big sets (such as castles, modular buildings, stations, large space ships, etc...). Use intermediate sizes (for example 448px, 384px, 320px, ...) for smaller models. The 256x256px size or lower is often good for small sets. Crop images completely removing horizontal and vertical blank stripes around the subject (zero-pixles margins). Insert a model Report set's data and emphasize that in bold. Set's data include set Number, set official Name and set's Theme and subtheme if any. For example: 5988 - Pharaoh's Forbidden Ruins - Theme: Adventure If the set has more "configurations" (different models), please specify which one you are reproducing with LDD (Model A, Model B, etc...). NOTE: Alternate Versions (official different configurations for the same set) are counted as separate sets. If the set has been Re-Released with an identical or similar version, report the alternate Set ID(s). Report both the version of LDD and the brickset used to build the model. Insert a screenshot of your creation, in order to provide a preview. One screenshot for each set (see the rules about images above). Write an Error List, reporting if the model is complete or some element is missing or replaced (by a similar part, a brick assembly or any custom solution). Use part IDs to identify the bricks. Don't divide a single set in more than one post. Put a single set in a single .lxf file. You are encouraged to use LDD groups function to separate different elements in complex sets. LDD model should be similar to the original model as much as possible. Include minifigs, if any. Replace missing decorations with suitable ones, if possible. Modified models are welcome, but in different .lxf files, as an "extra". Every personalization (personal logos, additions, changes) makes a model a "Modified Model". and obviously... Share you lxf file! Update a set Update the post where you originally inserted the set. Report the update in the Upgrade Topic. Be care to follow the rules of the Upgrade Topic. [Sets created by other users] Book or Request a set Refer to "Official Lego sets - Book, WIP, Requests" Topic. NOTE: you can ever choose to make an already made or booked set, if you want. Besides You are encouraged to inform an LDD file maker if you notice an adjustable defect in his/her LDD file! If you notice something wrong in the index, please report it to the indexer. If you use custom pieces to replace missing bricks in LDD, please post it in the "LDD custom bricks" Topic! Rules in brief Read the rules before posting here. Only regular entries will be indexed. Allowed sets: instructions officially released, no spared parts. Report references if necessary. Insert a model General rules: don't split model in more posts, don't add or remove entries to an existing post, group entries. Don't add personalizations to the model (except in order to replace missing parts). Use Groups. Extra are allowed, as text links. Necessary content: Set's Data, Image, LXF File, Error List. - Set's data: Set's ID, Set's name, Theme/Subtheme, alternative model (Model A, B, ...), alternative Set IDs if any. - Image: one for each set, simple screenshots, PNG with Alpha channel, maximum size 512x (big sets), crop (zero-pixles margins), not scattered, no flat view. - LXF file: one for each entry, direct link, report LDD and brickset version. - Error List: missing bricks/decorations, replaced brick/decorations, brick made replacements. Use part IDs. Various: minimal quotes, don't quote images, report errors. (index/other entries).
  2. has anybody attempted to make the new ucs star destroyer (75252)? im stuck with lining up the sides. is there anyone that can help me?
  3. Ok, let's do this. Inspired by @M2m thread I've started wrting a 3D Studio Max script that allows importing, editing and exporting LDD brick geometry and their XML data. They are rough, some geometry data is unknown (this doesn't have any visible or noticable impact so far) but it works and here's the result (click for bigger pictures): Fixed connectivity issue of 90 deg tube (pretty popular piece for 2018/2019 technic sets): Custom 3x5x2 panel that I saw in one of the Chinese custom (not copied from Lego) models: I was curious how my MOC would look like with more realistic, narrow tires so I shrinked Unimog tire to fit on 42029 rim. Dimensions: 81,6 x 30: For the tractor enthusiasts - how could a Class tire look like on an Arcos rim - also that Chinese model. Dimensions: 64,2 x 20 (I've made is slighty bigger than original tire): Moved some parts around and fixed default orientation of some of technic panels:
  4. Inspired by the Speed Champions cars. Last year I built a car showroom to show them off. Al's Autos is built on 3 large baseplates. On the left baseplate the blue and white sign has doubled sided brick plate writing and rotates on a Technic turntable. The showroom has a roller door entry behind the office on the left. It is fully tiled inside and lit with PF LEDs. On the right baseplate the brown turntable also rotates on a Technic turntable. The footpath is designed to match up to the Modular footpaths. My own creation cars are a Pick Up truck with removable Camper. A Ford GT40 reverse engineered from a LEGO YouTube movie. The black Pontiac is a KITT replica and has a working red LED scanner in the front. Next was a service centre / workshop for the showroom.The back section is a parts department. On the right are two service bays. The front one has a working Technic pneumatic hoist. Also PF LED lighting. The shipping containers can fit a Speed Champions car or spare parts. To keep the cars clean I next built a car wash. This has a working Technic based linear actuator to move the brushes back and forward over the car. So after a long day. It's off to the Drive In movies. The diner has a projection room, kitchen, counter, seating and toilet. My own creation cars are two NYPD police cars with working light bars. A yellow NY taxi. The two Porsche 911's are modified with brick headlights and door handles. The ambulance has working LED light bars, headlights and taillights One day I will get around to doing close up and interior photos.
  5. Xon67

    Assembling Bricksburg

    edited to put all final images in the first post... After seeing the LEGO movie, I wanted to re-create buildings from Emmet's neighborhood. While researching, I realized a great deal of what was in the movie was based on previously-existing sets. I thought it would be interesting to do a project that compared the original LEGO sets to the modified movie versions. Knowing how much time, money, and physical space it would take to build these out of real bricks, I decided to try my hand at LEGO Digital Designer (LDD). After having created a couple of the buildings in LDD, I ran across the post for Bluerender and used it to generate photo-real renderings. Here are my results: .lxf file: http://www.brickshel...logo_final_.lxf The latest image posts: "I wanna go home!" LEGO Movie 2 logo The latest WIP of Emmet's Mech (with BlackStar): .lxf file: Emmet's apartment Emmet's apartment interior How Emmet fits a 50-stud-wide apartment into a 30-stud-wide building: A variation on Emmet's apartment (green with a slanted roof) Pet Store (right) Pet Store (left) Plumber Joe's apartment .lxf file: http://www.brickshel...the_plumber.lxf Condemned building Fresh Fruit market Sherrie Scratchen-Post's apartment Emmet's street Emmet's street in micro scale Fire Brigade .lxf file: http://www.brickshel...ire_brigade.lxf Fire Brigade Tower (updated) Filling Station Garage Street Corner Rooftop garden 1 Rooftop garden 2 An example of the reuse of building parts Warehouse 1 Warehouse 2 (Fire Brigade) Mega Green Grocer Bricksburg Castle Bricksburg Castle back Cafe Corner / hotel with clock tower Fish (market?/restaurant?) Office(?) Building Office Building Church It's not mentioned in the images, but the the ice cream cart in this image, the giant Green Grocer, and the "fish" building comes from 10211 Grand Emporium. Cheese Slope building Fire Brigade Radio Station Plaza with Bob's Kabobs Here are some Bricksburg accessories from the Movie, including garbage containers, rooftop details, a street corner, billboards, and the mosaics from the "fish" and "fresh fruit" buildings, including the LDD file, for you to use in your own MOCs: lxf file: http://www.brickshel...accessories.lxf Condemned building Condemned building Ma and Pa Cop's house Highway Overpass Train bridge Monorail stop .lxf file: Downtown plaza Skyscraper ground level The Coffee Chain .lxf file: Downtown Bricksburg and the Kragle antidote. Skyscraper 1 Skyscraper 2 Skyscraper 3 Skyscraper 4 Skyscraper 5 Skyscraper 6 Skyscraper 7 Downtown: Flying cranes Downtown: Larry's flying coffee machine Skyscraper under construction 1 Skyscraper under construction 2 Construction site Construction Site Update: Small cement mixer Tipper Truck Cement mixer Dump Truck Crawler Crane Instruction Tube Large crawler crane Instruction Holder Building cranes Building crane Construction helicrane Brick sorter Front end loader Back hoe Heavy loader Emmet's mech Emmet's mech compared to the official set Rush hour traffic Small car Public transportation, monorail, and Surfer Dave's car SUV Small van Delivery truck Police cruiser SWAT van Octan HQ micro scale upper floors Octan HQ micro scale Octan HQ from Finn's basement Octan HQ minifig scale Octan reception: Lord Business' relic room Octan corridor with MetalBeard and Benny Octan sound stage--news conference stage Octan sound stage--80s-something technology Octan sound stage--Where Are My Pants? Octan offices. Octan Control Room. Octan DJ booth Octan Executive Conference Room Lord Business' ThinkTank Octan flying cube. The many moods of MetalBeard MetalBeard's strong, virile body MetalBeard's "Down on the Farm" form Mrs. Scratchen-Post's kitty sled lxf file: http://www.brickshel...post_sleigh.lxf A Christmas tree assembled by The LEGO Movie Master Builders Emmet's snow sculpture A surprise Christmas tree for Bad Cop Nathan Sawaya's Oscar statue from the 2015 Academy Awards. Mark Mothersbaugh's LEGO energy domes from the 2015 Academy Awards Awards given to all Emmet Awards nominees End Title Concept End credits: Movie Theater End credits: WyldStyle's tag End credits: Music End credits: Movie premiere End credits: Kragle End credits: Taco Tuesday End credits: Consessions End credits: Secret Police End credits: Sound stage End credits: Construction End credits: Warehouse More on the way!
  6. I propose to keep here an up-to-date ldraw.xml, the file used by LDD to convert to and from LDraw files. Download: latest version On Windows 32 bits: download and replace the one in “C:\Program Files\LEGO Company\LEGO Digital Designer\” On Windows 64 bits: download and replace the one in “C:\Program Files (x86)\LEGO Company\LEGO Digital Designer\” On Mac: download and replace the one in the “Contents\Resources\” folder in the app (open “Applications” in Finder, right click on the “LEGO Digital Designer” package and select the “Show Package Contents” option to explore the pakage folders). (Thanks manglegrat!) This file is also used and distributed with these tools: lxf2ldr C++/Qt version (both CLI and GUI), more options but needs to be compiled lxf2ldr.html HTML/JS version, works everywhere! If you have other modifications or additions, post them here or send me a personal message and I’ll include them to the benefit of all. If you need a part, feel free to ask here and I’ll try to add it (provided it exists in LDraw and LDD). History and Contents It’s based upon gallaghersart’s latest version (see this thread). It includes the modifications shutterfreak published in his thread. It uses some of the LDraw unofficial parts (mainly for new parts in LDD Brick version 2075). It includes some name corrections (because LDraw renamed or moved some parts, added new variants, etc.). I tried to more accurately convert the colors (now mainly according to Ryan Howerter’s conversion table). It’s not easy because all sources (Swooshable, Mecabricks, Ryan) don’t agree, and there are holes and overlaps. But as these differences, holes, and overlaps occur for rare colors or colors that aren’t available in LDD, it should be okay. In a megalomaniacal way, all the entries I have modified have an “SLS” at the end of their heading comments. New entries have an “SLS” at the front of the comments. So it’s easy to know when to blame me. As of 2016-09-16 and the big overhaul, I assume all the errors. Know Limitations As of LDD 4.3.9, flex parts (hoses) are not exported anymore (even unflexed). Minifig arms and hands are not connected in LDraw. I don’t know whose geometry is off (both?) but the shapes differ a lot. At least, hands are correctly connected to whatever they clip and arms are correctly placed in their sockets and somewhat wrap around the hands’s stems. Some variants are not recognized by LDD (e.g. clips, or tiles with/without groove, etc.) In those cases, I prefer to use the most recent variant in LDraw as it generally is easier to find and cheaper. Sometimes, several LDD parts correspond to a unique LDraw part. Sometimes, the transformation is accurate for one variant but not for another. For example, the Flag 2 x 2 is known to LDD as 2335, 11055, and 60779, but LDraw only has the 2335 variant. 2335 and 60779 use the same transformation but 11055 is vertically offset. I preferred to badly convert 11055 to 2335 rather than not convert it at all or badly convert 2335 and 60779. ldraw.xml is used both ways (LDD to/from LDraw). It’s not something I do frequently (too many resulting collisions) so it’s not well tested. One problem I can see is that, when several LDD parts correspond to a unique LDraw part, the conversion that’s listed last is the one that will be used. The reverse (first written is the one used) is true for assemblies that use the same subparts, in the same quantity (like electric cables). A lot of LDraw parts are simply wrong. Almost all the parts that combine System (studs and anti-studs) and Technic (pins and axles, and their holes) are wrong in that they assume the technic holes are at the same height than side studs (on the picture below, the circles are concentric). LDD assumes the holes are 0.2 mm (0.5 LDU) higher. In ABS, the holes are 0.12 mm (0.375 LDU) higher (dixit Jamie Berard in his famous presentation). In order to limit the number and magnitude of errors, LDD is considered to be right. How to write a new transformation for a part in ldraw.xml What? ldraw.xml is an XML file that defines how LDD can export to (or import from) LDraw files. It does so by defining a match between the part’s IDs and how to rotate and translate the part from one geometry to the other. Matches are defined by “Brick” XML elements. For example, this one says to LDD that the Brick 1x1 that it knows as 3005 is also known to LDraw as 3005: <Brick ldraw="3005.dat" lego="3005" /> (Note the “.dat” in the ldraw ID.) Matches are not needed if the part IDs are the same: the transformation element is sufficient for LDD to know the part exists. (So the example above is useless ) Rotations and translations are defined by “Transformation” XML elements. This one says to LDD that the Brick 1x1 just needs to be moved up: <Transformation ldraw="3005.dat" tx="0" ty="-.96" tz="0" ax="1" ay="0" az="0" angle="0" /> The translation (tx, ty, and tz) is in centimeters (0.8 cm is the width of a brick, 0.96 cm its height). The rotation is given by its axis (the line passing through and ), and its angle in radians. And all the coordinates are in the direct (“riht-handed”), Y points up, coordinates system of LDD. The transformation explains what should be done to import from LDraw besides changing the axes (LDD’s Y is up and XYZ is a direct basis, LDraw’s Y is down and XYZ is an indirect basis; so changing the axes only means changing the sign of Y). So, in an LDD to LDraw point of view, the transformation is reversed: it says what happens to a part if you don’t do anything to its coordinates besides changing the sign of Y. In other words, the opposite transformation has to be applied to the LDD coordinates of the part in order to get the LDraw coordinates (with Y reversed). Why? Each part has an orientation (which way up? which way left?) and a center, point of origin, or reference point (we’ll use “reference point” from now on). But LDD and LDraw don’t always agree. To know the orientation and reference point in LDD, insert the part without rotating it nor attaching it to any other part. It will be aligned along the scene’s axes (LDD’s axes). The reference point is near the mouse pointer’s head. To know the orientation and reference point in LDraw, I find LeoCAD the easiest tool: just select the part and its axes are drawn (X red, Y green, Z blue), starting at its reference point. Okay, LeoCAD’s «X, Y, Z» is LDraw’s «X, -Z, Y» but what’s another little change of basis? Sometimes, their disagreement is trivial. For example, for the simple 1x1 brick (3005), both LDD and LDraw agree: the stud is on top and the reference point is on the vertical line going through the center of the stud. But they differ for the height at which the reference point should be: LDD says it’s at the base of the brick, LDraw at its top (but at the base of the stud). (On every picture, X will be red, Y green, and Z blue.) So the transformation for that part is straightforward: if the LDraw part is imported as is, with only Y reversed, it will end up 0.96 cm (the height of the brick) higher than it should. So we have to lower it by 0.96 cm: <Transformation ldraw="3005.dat" tx="0" ty="-.96" tz="0" ax="1" ay="0" az="0" angle="0" /> Sometimes, their disagreement is more profound and the transformation is therefore more complicated. For example, for the musket (Minifig Gun Musket 2561), LDD puts the reference point in the handle and “up” means the handle is vertical but LDraw puts the reference point in the barrel and “up” means the barrel is vertical. Even more, the stock is on the wrong side, so X and Z are different too. With an identity transformation, the part is rotated by an eighth of a turn (X to Y) (π/4) around the Z axis to put the barrel vertical, and then by a quarter turn (X to Z) (-π/2) around the Y axis. After that, it has been translated up and horizontally. After calculations (see below), we’ll end up with this transformation: <Transformation ldraw="2561.dat" tx="0" ty="-1.72" tz="0.336" ax="-0.3574067443365933" ay="-0.8628562094610169" az="0.3574067443365933" angle="1.7177715174584016"/> How? So, how do we find the right values to have the correct transformations? What’s the ID? Having the right part Check the ID of the part in LDD. Check the ID of the part in LDraw. Beware of variants, LDraw uses a letter suffix (a, b, c…) where LDD totally changes the ID or keeps the same ID for new variants. Don’t hesitate to look on BrickLink for the part ID: BrickLink keeps a list of alternate IDs (when the same part has several IDs) and links to variants and notes. If the IDs are the same. Nothing to do. If the IDs differ. We add a Brick element: <Brick ldraw="123a.dat" lego="456" /> Don’t forget the “.dat”! That was the easy part. Which way is up? Finding the rotation axis and angle We start in LDD. Up is Y, or Y is up. X and Z are a bit harder to see on the LDD scene unless you use LDD’s developper mode (which has the LDD axes drawn at «0,0,0» as red X, green Y, and blue Z lines). Or, if you’re sure you didn’t move the camera in a brand new model/file, X is pointing bottom right, and Z bottom left. We place our part among other parts that we know will be correctly converted (like 1x1 plates, or harpoons ) to have references. Using different colors greatly helps! We export to LDraw… … and look at the results: We decompose the transformation in multiple simple rotations, around the X, Y, or Z axis. If it has been turned around X, a quarter turn from Y to Z is a positive π/2 angle. If it has been turned around Z, a quarter turn from X to Y is a positive π/2 angle. If it has been turned around Y, a quarter turn from Z to X is a positive π/2 angle. To make it short, it’s a direct (right-handed) basis. If you can’t figure out the problems with an existing transformation, “clear” it by using an identity transformation: <transformation tx="0" ty="0 tz="0" ax="0" ay="1" az="0 angle="0"/> (All zeroes but one of the a_ which is 1.) You can try each simple rotation one by one to be sure of their angles (especially their signs ). Beware, combining rotations change their axes (e.g. turning around first X then Y is equivalent to turning around first Y then Z). So if you check that the Y rotation is okay, then the X rotation, don’t forget to combine them as Y then Z. For the musket, we need two rotations: an eighth of a turn (π/4, 45°) around the Z (blue) axis that puts the barrel vertical, and then a quarter turn (-π/2, -90°) around the Y (green) axis. Or we can first make the quarter turn (-π/2, -90°) around the Y (green) axis, and then an eighth of a turn (π/4, 45°) around the X (red) axis. Remember, “import”-wise, we’re trying to find what should happen to the part in the LDD scene to be like the LDraw one, with the LDD axes (the harpoons ). My head is turning. Combining rotations If more than one simple rotation is needed, we have to combine them. For that, we’ll use quaternions. Eh come back! That’s not that difficult! A quaternion q can be written as q = a + b.i + c.j + d.k, where i² = j² = k² = i.j.k = -1 (so i.j = k = -j.i, j.k = i = -k.j, k.i = j = -i.k). a is the real part, b.i + c.j + d.k is the imaginary part. A rotation by the angle angle around the axis «ax, ay, az» is the quaternion q = cos(angle/2) + sin(angle/2).(ax.i + ay.j + az.k) Do note the 1/2 factor on the angle! To combine two rotations, we just multiply their quaternions and apply the rules above to end up with a a + b.i + c.j + d.k form (or, more accurately, a C + S.(ax.i + ay.j + az.k) form, where C and S are cosine and sine of the same angle and ax² + ay² + az² = 1 ). If we rotate first by q and then by p, the result is the rotation by p.q. Note the order: q then p is p.q. Multiplication is not commutative with quaternions: if you do it the wrong way, you’ll end up with the correct values but the wrong signs. There’re lots of fun to have with quaternions and rotations as quaternions. But what is said here is sufficient for our purposes. An example: Most of the times, we do π/2 rotations (quarter turns, 90°). angle = π/2 therefore cos(angle/2) = sin(angle/2) = cos(π/4) = sin(π/4) = √2/2; So, for a “horizontal” quarter turn (yaw, around Y): q = √2/2 + √2/2.j (as j/Y is the “vertical” axis). Let’s combine it with a half turn (π, 180°) around the X axis (IOW, upside-down): cos(π/2) = 0, sin(π/2) = 1, so p = 0 + i p.q = (0 + i) . (√2/2 + √2/2 j) = √2/2 i + √2/2 i.j = 0 + √2/2 ( i + k ) Now, let’s get the resulting angle: The real part of p.q, 0, is the cosine of angle/2. 0 is also the cosine of ±π/2 (±90°). Therefore, the resulting angle is π (180°). Now the axis, «ax, ay, az»: It’s the √2/2( i + k) imaginary part. That’s the vector «√2/2, 0, √2/2». We need to remove the sin(angle/2) factor. That’s easy as the sine of π/2 is 1. So our axis is «ax = √2/2, ay = 0, az = √2/2». Written in ldraw.xml: ax="0.707…" ay="0" az="0.707…" angle="3.1415…" Another one, a quarter turn around Y and then around X: q = √2/2 + √2/2 j = √2/2 (1 + j) p = √2/2 + √2/2 i = √2/2 (1 + i) p.q = 1/2 (1 + i) (1 + j) = 1/2 + 1/2 (i + j + k) We rewrite it as p.q = 1/2 + √3/2 (√⅓ i + √⅓ j + √⅓ k) to have a unit vector (ax² + ay² + az² = 1) in the parenthesis and to clarify the cosine and sine: 1/2 and √3/2. They are the sine and cosine of π/3 (60°). Therefore, the resulting angle is 2π/3 (120°). In ldraw.xml: ax="0.577…" ay="0.577…" az="0.577…" angle="2.094…" Back to our musket: An eighth of a turn (π/4, 45°) around the Z axis that puts the barrel vertical: q = cos(π/8) + sin(π/8).i = C + S.k Then a quarter turn (-π/2, -90°) around the Y axis: p = cos(-π/4) + sin(-π/4).j = √2/2 (1 - j) p.q = √2/2.(1 - j)(C + S.k) = √2/2.(C - S.j.k - C.j + S.k) = √2/2.C + (-√2/2.S.i - √2/2.C.j + √2/2.S.k) Wow! Hum, okay. So √2/2.cos(-π/8) is the cosine of half our angle. Get the calculator out… angle/2 = Acos(√2/2.cos(-π/8)) = 0.8589 Our angle is 1.7178. We “remove” the sine of angle/2 from our vector, so that p.q = cos(angle/2) + sin(angle/2).(ax.i + ay.j + az.k): ax = -√2/2.sin(-π/8) / sin(0.8589) = -0.3574 ay = -√2/2.cos(-π/8) / sin(0.8589) = -0.8629 az = √2/2.sin(-π/8) / sin(0.8589) = 0.3574 As an exercise, you can verify that ax² + ay² + az² = 1. So we did it right! Et voilà: ax="-0.3574067443365933" ay="-0.8628562094610169" az="0.3574067443365933" angle="1.7177715174584016" One step to the left. Getting the translation right Now that the part is correctly oriented, it may need to be moved. The translation is in centimeters (cm). 20 LDU = 0.8 cm. Values are often multiples of 0.4 (half a stud) for tx and tz and multiples of 0.32 (height of a plate) for ty. Other, finer, tunings are often in multiples of 0.008. If the rotation is complex, all bets are off In LDD, we try to place the part so that its LDraw up axis ends up up in the scene, and we try to align its LDraw X and Z axes with X and Z of the scene (at least, that it is not rotated by a weird angle). That way, moving the part along its axes is also moving the part along the scene’s axes. It will be easier for getting the translation right. For our musket, that means the barrel up. (I didn’t align the X and Z axes here because, yeah, I’m a warrior, I don’t need that. Besides, you’ll see what happens because of that. ) Again, I find it easier in LeoCAD: the key bindings, the coordinates clearly shown in the status bar, etc. The thing is, LeoCAD uses a direct Z up basis. So if you move «dx, dy, dz» in LeoCAD, you’re moving «dx, -dz, dy» in LDD (and vice versa). Confusing? Noooh. Anyway, choose your own poison but beware of its little quirks. To help fine tuning, using transparent colors greatly helps, especially for clip-bar connections. Now, we note the coordinates of our part in our LDraw editor and move it so that it ends up the way it should. We look how much we moved it. That’s it! Just convert it to cm (= LDU × 0.8 / 20) and we have our translation. Well, mostly, the signs are wrong. Remember: the transformation is what should happen to the LDD part to end up like the LDraw part, we just did the opposite and moved the LDraw part to be like the LDD one. Besides the signs, if you didn’t correctly align the axes, you’ll have to find which is which For our musket, we need to go up and sligthly to the “left” (from bottom right to upper left when your LDraw view is oriented as a new LDD file, as are all the screenshots here). That means negative dy and dx. But as the part is not aligned on X and Z (but still not badly rotated), the negative dx becomes a positive dz. Et voilà! <Transformation ldraw="2561.dat" tx="0" ty="-1.72" tz="0.336" ax="-0.3574067443365933" ay="-0.8628562094610169" az="0.3574067443365933" angle="1.7177715174584016"/> (So, okay. I had to try first tx then tz, both negative and positive, before I found the right one. But I didn’t want to have to remake the pictures! There: I’m not a warrior, I’m just lazy.)
  7. Hi, In theory, should be coming a new update for LDD, no?? Someone knows something about that?
  8. Bricked1980


    Hi everyone I'd like to share with you my second MOC which I have been working on over the past few weeks. For this project I decided to tackle a subject very close to my heart - the Great British Pub! So without further ado... Grab yourself a pint and join me for a guided tour of The Queen Bricktoria! As you can see this is a modular style corner building with 3 floors built on a 32x32 base plate. The design is intended to be reminiscent of British town centre pubs or more specifically the style of pubs we'd see in London. The Minifigures There are 7 minifigs with the model. The 3 characters below are the pub workers. From left to right we have the Owner/Landlord and his daughter the barmaid. The guy with the guitar is a local singer who has been booked to play a gig at the pub. The 4 figures below are the pub regulars. The guy with the beard is the typical sort of old gent we find in many pubs propping up the bar and boring everyone to death with their stories of the good old days. The guy in the green top and the girl are boyfriend and girlfriend. Level 1 - The Bar Outside the building we have a busy street corner. I've included an iconic British red phone box and an outside covered seating area. There is also a sign board advertising events etc at the pub. The main entrance leads us in to the bar/lounge area. Inside we have a well stocked bar and a cozy fireplace. There are also tables and bar stool for the minifigs to sit and enjoy their drinks. Brown carrots make pretty good beer pump handles. At the back of the bar is a staircase leading us up to level 2. Level 2 - Pool and Darts Room On the second level is a games room featuring a Pool table and Dart board. There is also a pool cue rack and a shelf with trophies won by the resident darts team. At the back of the room is another staircase that leads to level 3. Level 3 - Live Music Room Level 3 has a stage for Live Music gigs and Karaoke. On the stage we have a keyboard, guitar, amps and microphone. Also on this level is more seating for the minifigs and a door that leads to a small balcony seating area. Oh dear!!! The singer seems to be a bit of a hit with the ladies. The Finished Model Here is a picture of the Queen Bricktoria next to my first MOC design, The Convenience store, as you can see my new MOC is much much bigger. Another picture below shows the pub next to one of the official modulars, to help give a sense of the size of the model. Thanks very much for reading and I hope you like my newest MOC. There are more pictures of it on my Flickr page so feel free to check them out and let me know what you think.
  9. Hi to all! It’s Christmas time once again and I hope you are ready to start opening your own advent calendars. As in last year, I intend to start some advent calendars myself here at Eurobricks. These calendars were built using LDD, so no “real” bricks here, but I hope you’ll still enjoy it. Since my favorite theme is the Collectable Minifigures, it was obvious to start an AC that will contain new and never-seen-before minifigs. Since there are 24 days in an AC, there will be 24 minifigs, not 16. And what kind of minifigs? Whatever you can imagine! Or at least I can…Or both, since most of the ideas I tried to create came from you. I read through some “let’s guess what minifigs will appear in future CMF series” threads and there were many brilliant ideas! Of course I missed those that were already made, or will be in the upcoming Series 13. UPDATE: There will be at least one that is similar to one of the minifigures in Series 13, but I didn't know that when I created it, and I didn't want to change. I tried to do my best making unique “printings”, but since the project was made in LDD, I had to use the molds that already exist there. “Oh no, so no new molds?!” Actually, albeit I couldn't change the 3D models of the molds in the LDD software, the rendering software allows doing some “changes” ;) So be prepared for some exciting minifigs! And don’t forget to come back every day until 24th! Enjoy! Day 1 - Baker
  10. Dear Everyone! 2018 will be the year of anniversaries in the life of LEGO. One of them is the introduction of the LEGO brick itself! For this occasion, this Advent Calendar presents you 24 microscale versions of the most iconic sets ever released! Hopefully, the yearspan and the choice of themes will be diverse enough. I had no idea that LEGO will release a 60th anniversary set with microscale models, but mine will be even smaller, the size of a normal LEGO Advent Calendar window. Although I hope all of them will be recognizable, I will include the „template” for all days’ sets. The joy starts tomorrow! J Check out the Minifig Advent Calendar in the special LEGO themes topic.
  11. Thanks to the open source SunFlow rendering system, i'm able to present: Bluerender A rendering engine for Lego Digital Designer. How it works: You just open the LXF file with Bluerender and click the big Render button. Optionally, you can choose an output png file and do a "preview" render: it will render the model in wireframe (useful for testing and framing your model). A set of default settings is provided that should looks good for most renders, but you can tinker with the scene description to use the full power of SunFlow. Rendering is fast, a 1024x768 image usually take no more than five minutes on average pc. This project came about as an experiment when i discovered that i could integrate SunFlow into Blueprint code with minimal effort. It's by no mean a competitor to Povray, which is slow but ultra-high quality, professional renderer. Features: Renders models, even big ones (tested on 12k piece models) Completely customizable scene Use camera settings from lxf file, so you can just frame your model in LDD. Support for LDD decorations and decoration substitution Limitations: many :P Documentation: A wiki is available with plenty of documentation. Using the renderer with default settings is quite simple. If you want to customize light, materials etc, you can change the scene description, simply edit the included file. The syntax of the scene description is that of Sunflow and should be easy, there are some examples inside. Anyway some documentation is available here (note: it may be a little outdated at times). You can optionally have a custom scene file for each model: simply copy the file and name it like your lxf model (for example, if you have spaceship.lxf, create the file, in the same folder of course). You can override LDD decoration with your own adding lines like this in your scene file (the number is the decoration ID): ##CHANGEDECOR 59879 c:\path\to\custom\mydecor.png Issue Tracker: Have any bug or feature request? Be a good fellow and report it in our shiny issue tracker. Requirements: Java8 (revision 8u40 or better) Lego Digital Designer Disclaimer: Use at your own risk, i decline any responsability for anything that may happen to you using the program. Download: You can download Bluerender vers. 0005 here. Flickr Group: You can add your renders to the official Bluerender Lego Rendering group. Running on Mac: Some people were able to run Bluerender on Mac. Try the following instructions: Remove all java installations Install Java, but not from Oracle, from Homebrew instead. What's HomeBrew? I've no idea, but you can try following these instruction. Open a command prompt/shell/terminal, cd to the folder where you unzipped Bluerender Enter the following command: java -cp "bin/*" bluerender.BlueRender If the program manage to start, it will ask you to locate the db.lif file, you should find it here: /Users/USERNAME/Library/Application Support/LEGO Company/LEGO Digital Designer/db.lif Special thanks: to Bublible for his help with the renderer. to Jackalope for his help testing the app on Mac. to Fabrizio for his precious time as beta tester. Screenshot: Example Output: (these models are taken from the web, not mine) More examples can be found here. Here you can find a 3027x2304 render of a 12000 parts model, took about 30 minutes. Changelog: 0005: Black is now real black #93 Glass is now lighter #82 (thanks to bublible) Implemented bublible chrome materials #73 (thanks to bublible) Corrected NPE with invalid color codes (default to white) #86 Implemented aliases parsing and caching #81, #68 360° rotation renders #71 can now place light with transform{} blocks #72 (thanks to bublible) overwrite and other options are now persisted #64 basic parameters are now in the app #65 changed default background to white 0004: Janino shaders now work Automatic aspect ratio Overwrite without asking checkbox No longer "forget" some flexible elements Correct background color reflection for mirrors (no more black) 0003: Model loading is fast again (even faster!) Some textured glass support (not perfect yet) Clickable scene label (opens the scene file) Self adjusting plane height Search file in db folder beside db.lif Bugfixes 0002: remembers last used folder ask before overwrite use a single file instead of three files for setup, materials, lights scene files are not shown on the program anymore (was more confusion than anything) optional per-model scene file LDD decoration support custom decoration support 0001: initial release
  12. Hello everyone, As promised in the official Jurassic World thread, I'm sharing the LDD models I made of some of the JW vehicles. Like many of you, I was a little disappointed by the vehicle builds in this theme and wanted to make my own more movie-accurate versions of some of them. Most are heavily inspired by offical LEGO builds (mostly from the City line). Note that the stickers are obviously missing from the vehicles so I'm afraid you'll have to use your imagination for that part. The first vehicle is loosely inspired by the Textron Tiger armoured truck which appears towards the end of the movie. It is based on the offrad pickup truck from the 1st Avengers movie (set 6867). I turned it into a two-seater and added the rear section. JW Textron Tiger 1 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr JW Textron Tiger 3 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr Up next is the Mercedes-Benz Sprinter van used by the ACU to track the I-rex. This one is based on an ambulance from the City theme (set 4431). JW Sprinter 1 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr There's enough room for about 4-5 figures in the back but it's a tight fit... JW Sprinter 4 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr The next vehicle is the ACU 6x6 G36 from the same scene. This one is an original design but I'm still not 100% please with how it turned out. Hopefully you'll still like it and maybe some more talented builders will improve it. JW 6x6 1 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr JW 6x6 3 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr Here's how it looks next to the Sprinter van. JW by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr Next is the G-class SUV, which is pretty much JW's version of the Jeep Wrangler. I made two versions of this one, the first of which is pretty much a recoloured police SUV from set 4440. JW Mercedes 1 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr I then made a second version of the car, which is a two-seater with working doors. JW Mercedes 2 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr And finally, we have the Unimog. I used City set #60083 (which is a much better representation of a Unimog than the JW one) as a base for this one and tried to improve the official LEGO design from the JW theme. JW Unimog 1 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr JW Unimog 2 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr The rear section was made shorter and I completely modified the interior but you can still fit standing minifigs in there without problems. JW Unimog 3 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr Here's an example of the vehicle with a different rear section (this one is inspired by set 4205). JW Unimog 4 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr JW2 by Elrond Half-elven, sur Flickr If you guys like them, here's the LDD file containing all the vehicles: Jurassic World Vehicles.lxf Thank you for stopping by. ;)
  13. Ever since I got my 21309 Saturn V, I thought it would be cool to have a model of the launch tower to go with it. Well, it may be a long time before I get a chance at building this model for real, but I have completed the digital design! If anyone is interested, an LDD file is available from my bricksafe page: Original first post: Ever since I got my 21309 Saturn V, I thought it would be cool to have a model of the launch tower to go with it. I'm clearly not the only one because a similar model recently reached 10k votes on Lego Ideas - however, I'm impatient and so I decided to start building my own. I've been working in LDD due to a lack of physical bricks, and the first (very rough) sketch model is complete: The Saturn V rocket was launched from the Mobile Launch Platform (MLP, nothing to do with ponies...), a two story structure on which the rocket was constructed and fuelled. It measured 169x135 feet, or 56x46 studs at 1:110 scale, and also carried a 380 ft tall launch umbilical tower (LUT). The tower featured nine arms that provided electricity and other services to various parts of the rocket, and swung away just a fraction of a second before it blasted off. The rocket did not stand on the engine nozzles, but was instead suspended over a single exhaust vent measuring 45x45 feet. This should be 15x15 studs but I've gone with 14x14 studs for ease of building: I'm particularly proud of the design of the hold down arms: These four clamps held the rocket down until all five engines were confirmed to be running at full power, at which point they retracted behind heat-proof shields and allowed the Saturn V to soar skywards. Three additional holddown arms were located around the pad and have yet to be modelled. I'll add details once I have the core structure sorted. The base of the MLP uses 1x4x6 door frames like the version that was on Lego Ideas - an inspired choice which I've temporarily copied here (I'm actively trying to avoid looking at the Ideas model so I don't copy it), but I'm toying with 1x1x5 bricks to represent the support columns instead. I could really use some help and advice with this model though. How do I make it structurally sound? The MLP is a glorified box with a hole in it, but I've never built anything this big before and I'm not sure how to link together the baseplates. I had a few ideas for some internal supports: Do you think these would be strong enough? Should the outer wall be thicker? Should I criss-cross the entire hollow space with brick beams? How do I strike a good balance between strength and low parts count? You can view larger pictures and find the LDD file on bricksafe. If there's interest I'll make instructions available when the model is complete. Any advice or constructive feedback would be much appreciated!!
  14. update 2013-07-30 I've finally managed to brick build it! I've included some studio shots below. Also there's a little pointer on getting the angle of the cones to work. Finally, I've also updated the model file, as I found some errors in the 1.2 version. ---------------- I've been taking a break from building, but there was one model I haven't yet posted. I was going to do a topic after I brick-build it, but seeing as that might take awhile, I've decided to post the model file anyway. Also someone has already brick built it using my model file; I'm fairly confident that this model will work in real bricks. Disclaimer Like the B-Wing, most of the modeling was done by others, mainly Jerac and Scott34567. I've merely modified the base model to take full advantage of the parts from TLG's #75003 A-Wing model. Also some optimizations were made. So, without further ado: here she is! Studio shot 1 by Krispy's brick stuff, on Flickr Studio shot 2 by Krispy's brick stuff, on Flickr Jerac/Scott A-wing - v1.2 by Krispy's brick stuff, on Flickr Jerac/Scott A-wing - v1.2: Lego®-Vision by Krispy's brick stuff, on Flickr You can find the LDD model file here: v1.4 Building tip: inserting a pneumatic T between the cones and the round brick helps the side to keep its shape. How to angle the cones by Krispy's brick stuff, on Flickr Happy building!
  15. Hi, My friend and I are working together on a project. He sent me a studio project file which I wish to open in LDD. I didn't manage to find an .lxf option in's export menu. Could anyone help?
  16. The latest incarnation of my VW Beetle MOC, in minifigure scale. Incorporating new backend shaping to assist with the difficult matter of the curves. Enjoy
  17. Hello every one. if you were waiting for a long time to have some Nebulon Frigs, the last days and months served you ! Few day ago mortesv presented you his (beautiful) new version of the Redemption and last january I presented you mine ( But during this time I continued working on it with a double objective : - having a better bearing - having a better respect of the general proportions BUT I didn't want any compromises with the stability, modularity and resilience of the MOC, and I wanted to keep the size of it. I wanted a Lego accessible to everyone, and that could be exposed with no fear of destruction : you can move it easily and hustle it without major destruction. So I worked hard, and braved the wrath of my wife to obtain a new version. I entirely recreate the frame and I worked for a very well balanced frame and tough model The old one was a 3662 pieces / 75 cm long. The new one is around 4200 pieces / 85 cm long and... just better. I also worked to obtain a usable LDD instruction. I create a homemade pdf instructions too. So the wanted list + LDD + homemade pdf instructions are available for who want them (10 €). Because everyone will want compare with last beautiful version of mortesv, I only have to remember you that you won't compare the same conception of MOC : one is over 5000 pieces and the other is 20% less pieces. One is around 120cm and the other is 85 cm. It is obvious that the bigger one will be more detailed. Other point to remember : one is 100 % focused towards respect of proportions and details. The other is focused towards a compromise of details and strenght. Enjoy :) The concept of this MOC is to combine detail and not to big realisation. I tried to fine the best compromise between realistic frame with 2 small + discreet bearings and no extra supports (front and / or middle), and respect of original movie ship. The 2 mounts give a very stable MOC, which can be moved with no problems. The major problem with the conception of a such Lego is not to obtain a very detailed MOC, but find a feasible strong frame wich give a Lego able to sustain itself. I think that the picture give a good idea of what this moc is able to. No need to retouch the photo : no support and strong frame :p The Front : More details of the front. The LDD instruction I give are not made with sand green but tan colors because sand green is more expansive. But the tan can be replaced by this so beautiful green... The Back : The other back side. I tried to maximize the details degree. I used trans blue pieces for windows to help the comprehension of the size and give some life to the MOC. The center arch and Falcon : The center tube is cylindrical. The modularity : The moc is 100 % modular. You can disassemble it easily to show it in any convention ! ;) The instructions : The LDD instructions are usable. My homemade instructions will help you if you have doubt with LDD files. Please free to comment ! :)
  18. When you want to create instructions for your models how do you do that? Is there any better alternatives then generating them in LDD? I tried Studio, but it seems to be a lot of work for more complex models.
  19. Commander Wolf

    [MOC/WiP] China Railways QJ with PF!

    Hi, all! After piddling around with some small projects for the past few months, I decided it was time for a challenge! I'm building a Power Functions steam locomotive where the locomotive is powered (as opposed to a tender). To make things harder, the prototype isn't some small shunter, but the 2-10-2 China Railways QJ: The QJ is a fairly large mainline engine whose roots can be traced back to the various German 2-10-0s used extensively during WWII. Its primary claim to fame is probably the longevity of the design and quantity of units built - 4700 between 1956 and 1988. The QJ was used extensively on Chinese mainlines throughout the latter half of the 20th century, and a few soldered on in revenue service toward the end of the 2000s. Three survive in the US, two owned by Iowa Interstate, and one by RJ Corman. Anyway, I've decided to do a log of the build and share some of the process. We'll see how this goes. As always, the first step for me is finding drawings. I had previously wanted to try my hand at some smaller Chinese locos like the SY or JS, but having not found any drawings, the QJ was it. Resized to my usual scale of 15" per stud, it looks like this: The next task is to decide on the layout of the chassis. The "obvious" way to do it would be Emerald Night style - 2-10-2 with a blind-flange-blind-flange-blind configuration for the 10-coupled section, but this method results in a lot of overhang on curves, especially so if the body is attached directly to the 10-coupled section, and I really don't like that. That and other issues with the 10-coupled arrangement led me to look at more fun (complicated) designs, and I eventually settled on the following: This is a 2-2-4-4-2 articulation where the cylinders are actually locked to the middle 4 wheels because that's where the drive rods will connect. This arrangement lets me have driving and connecting rods across all flanged drivers, which I really like, and this also keeps the maximum width of the chassis at 9 studs at the cylinders. Yes, the 3rd and 4th axles aren't visually connected, but I would prefer having a gap over a thick or uneven connecting rod (full/overlapped half beams). At this point I had a vague idea of how I'd connect everything together, so I dumped it into LDD to sketch out the overall shape. Here I've just thrown together my intial thoughts of how I'd build various parts of the loco just to line things up with the drawing and evaluate the overall look and feel. I start like this because to me it's much more important that the overall proportions of a locomotive are correct and less important that individual details are all modeled. Now we can start on the detailed design. The first issue I tackled was the all-important method by which I'd connect all the axles that weren't already linked with connecting rods. To that end, I had known I would probably use a mechanism I had already used multiple times in the past, but I spent a lot of time trying to make it more rigid and compact. I also discovered how much easier it is to compact various assemblies by going to an all-studless chassis. Next up, connecting motors to the now coupled drivers. This has proven to be by far the most difficult part so far. One of the things that's really important to me is minimizing the overhang of the locomotive body inside and outside when it goes around a curve. To adjust this, you can move where the body pivots on the chassis (typically two points, one toward the front and one toward the rear - on a diesel these are the points at which the body connects to the bogies) forward and backward. The catch is, now the drivetrain connecting the motors to the wheels has to flex through these points as well. I settled on an initial design like this: As you can see, the drive train comes up from the last driven axle through the point at which the trailing axle is connected. Then it goes backward and there's a univeral joint through the point at which the body is connected to the last axle. How the motors are supposed to be joined to each other and to the wheels is still unclear here. At this point, I decided to make a mockup and do a test run, because you never know if things you make in LDD are going to work in reality or not. In this case, it did not. Turns out that the joint above the last driven axle was far too flimsy, and trying to transmit any significant amount of torque through it would throw the rear drivers off the track. And so here I am at the moment: This is actually the first design that made it around my test track, and it seems to do so fairly reliably for now. You can see the (yellow) more rigid redesign of the flimsy transmission and the (orange) more detailed design of the first driven axle. The actual testbed is not quite as pretty colored: More updates to come, stay tuned!
  20. Belus was a series of experimental locomotives within the dystopian apocalyptic fictional universe of The Final Station. There was only 8 locomotives in total, with the series discontinued after the main project supervisor went missing and the project team going bankrupt, ceasing production and maintenance of the Belus locomotives whatsoever. According to the game wiki the train's wheel arrangement is supposed to be 6-2-0 (I am not versed in train wheel patterns), but I depicted only the four that show up in the gaps between the plating. EDIT: Yesterday before sleep I've tried to make the Belus to actually have three pairs of smaller wheels, as is suggested by the info from the wiki. I think it looks much better, even though not much have changed on the surface: Here's what lies under the plating though: Here's the train's in-game appearance: As you can see, I had to work with a design that was ever represented only in a side-view, so it was a challenge to turn it into a 3D and pick a good width. In the end, I am glad that I even managed to more-or-less adjust the wheels to stand on the standard LEGO train tracks. All in all, it was a fun build that I wanted to tackle for a while! Also, please do check out the game, it's gorgeous and has a really good atmosphere! The model is made in Lego Digital Designer and adjusted in Stud.Io. The decals were applied via Stud.Io Part Designer. Here's a turnaround animation:
  21. Hi, wanted to share this little gem we put together: It opens .ldr, .mpd, .dat into an online 3D viewer, you can then change the background color and angle and export snapshots. It also converts the file into MakerBrane format, and opens it in another viewer with a different rendering style. It can also open in the 3D MakerSpace which is like LDD or mecabricks but more of a Universal Digital Builder because it has parts from other systems as well - but it you can't edit everything because not all the LEGO parts have been fully referenced yet for auto-snapping yet. Promising though, right? If you try it, post a screenshot here and let me know if there are any features we should add.
  22. From (another) rib of Blueprint, another program was born! I hereby offer you: BrickyFab upload your LDD models to Sketchfab. How it works: Just open the program, load an LDD model , enter your Sketchfab API, add some descriptions and tags and click Upload. Features: Single click interface, remembers your key and tags. Share your models around with Sketchfab fine embedded visualizer (works in Facebook too!) etc Requirements: Java8 (revision 8u40 or better) A Sketchfab account Lego Digital Designer Disclaimer: Use at your own risk, i decline any responsability for anything that may happen to you using the program. Donation: Should you like the program and you feel like, you can donate any amount of money here: thanks in advance! Download: Download the latest version here! Screenshot: See some 3d models here! Changelog: 0001: first release!
  23. 3DVIA Printscreen can capture LEGO Digital Designer models and save them as 3DXML files. It was discontinued years ago, but can still be downloaded from the web archives (direct installer link). Not many programs can load 3DXML files, so I made a program to convert them to OBJ. It does some other helpful things too. Download The resulting models are far more optimized for realtime rendering (games, AR, etc) than exports from other LEGO building software, thanks to LDD's hidden stud/tube removal. For example, a small house model that's 50350 tris exported from LeoCAD is only 13548 tris with this method - and with some additional tricks, only 2586 tris. More info here. I've only made this to work with LDD captures, compatibility with captures from other programs is not guaranteed. It will automatically name materials and textures with their official LEGO names/IDs. Setup: 3DVIA Printscreen should be configured so "Capture of textures" is on, and "Group by textures" is off. LDD should have high-quality rendering options disabled. 3DVIA Printscreen must be launched BEFORE LDD. Usage: Save your LDD model in 3DXML to OBJ's "Models" folder. Launch 3DXML to OBJ and enter your LDD model name in the first text box, then click "Move camera". This saves a new LDD model with the camera set in the proper position for 3DXML capturing. Open the new LDD model (it will have CAM_SET in the name) and capture it to a 3DXML file with 3DVIA Printscreen. Make sure it's saved in 3DXML to OBJ's "Models" folder, like the LDD models. Enter the name of your 3DXML file into the second text box in 3DXML to OBJ. I recommend leaving "Weld duplicate vertices" enabled. Choose a new color palette if you'd like, and click "Convert". It sounds more complicated than it is. Here's a model being converted and imported into Unity: Clicking the "Advanced" button will give you a bunch of options related to LEGO Universe-style color variation. However, making use of these features requires modding LDD, which I don't think is allowed to be discussed on Eurobricks, so I won't talk about it here. It's mostly only useful to people who are modding LEGO Universe and need to match its art style, anyway. LDD's hidden geometry removal gives pretty good results on its own, but with some trickery you can get even more mileage out of it: You can tell 3DXML to OBJ to not export bricks in certain colors, which is useful for "dummy bricks" only placed in the model to trip LDD's hidden geometry removal. In 3DXML to OBJ v1.8.0_Data\StreamingAssets, you will find "Color Export Exclusion.txt". Add the desired color IDs here, one per line. Covering studs is obvious enough, but tubes are a bit more finicky. Original LDD model, vs export with the dummy bricks excluded: A simple brick has the entire underside present. These quickly add up to loads of polygons. Placing 1x1 round plates across the surface causes LDD to replace the underside with two triangles. Nice! There's a small handful of other parts with this effect, but 1x1 round plates are the best. In fact, even just one 1x1 round plate can trigger this so long as the rest is still covered. Covering the bottom entirely will cause LDD remove it 100%. Beware: Some bricks, like those rounded 2x2 pieces, will look like they have the same effect as 1x1 round plates, but actually don't... They still leave much of the tubes intact. This trick is how I got that house with 13548 tris down to only 2586 tris - simply by capping off the bottoms of the roof and walls. More tips and tricks! If 3DVIA Printscreen is causing LDD to freeze and/or not launch, see this post. If you have developer mode enabled in LDD, you can press Shift W to toggle wireframe mode. You can also turn rendering of different parts of bricks on and off. LDD's bricks come in four sections, and can be toggled as such: K: Toggles studs Shift K: Toggles bottom and inside of tubes Q: Toggles outside of brick Shift Q: Toggles bottom and inside of brick You can use this to, for example, capture a model without studs, and use that as a lower LOD. Don't have developer mode enabled? Go to the same AppData folder as db.lif and developermode=1 to preferences.ini. You can add your own custom color palettes, just go to 3DXML to OBJ v1.8.0_Data\StreamingAssets\Custom Palettes and use the existing files as examples of how they work. If for some reason you need to, Shift R resets 3DXML to OBJ's saved preferences (resolution, most recent conversion options, etc).
  24. Hi all, I just released an extra portable version of lxf2ldr: lxf2ldr.html (still on gitlab, next to its brother, and also in GPLv3+). Yes, .html like in HTML/ECMAScript (aka JavaScript) but it’s totally local and self-contained! No compilation, no dependencies, no web server or arcane application (well, except for a d/recent web browser). Just download the zip (or tarball…), unpack it somewhere and open the file lxf2ldr.html in your browser. (See the senseless green/yellow coloured bar ? Click on the little cloud just below, on the right, just next to “Find File.”) Okay, okay, the look is spartan but it gets the job done. Tell me what you think… or not BTW, this is the initial release, I haven’t tested all the cases / stumbled upon all the of the language (two days on this and I know why I hadn’t touched JavaScript since the last century), so any issue, bug, glitch is welcome.