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  1. Hello! Several months ago we were able to get to know the new First Order machine "Gorilla Walker". When I saw the version released by Lego 75189, at first I thought it was necessary to build it in version "plussize" :) The design requires a lot of parts so I do it in LDD, after designing, I will order the appropriate parts. Current work lasts about 1.5 months, maybe I'll finish it by the end of the year :) How do you like it? All suggestions and comments are welcome :) More photos on flickr
  2. Hi Over the course of the past month I've been learning the basics of LDD, LeoCad and Blender to make a Minifig portrait of friends. My first attempt turned out pretty good, so I've decided to do some more for other friends and family. I use LDD to make the models, then export to LeoCad to tweak and then export to Blender to render the final image. The first couple have gone okay, but I've hit a problem that I can't get around. I've searched the web and mostly this forum but as a novice I may be looking in the wrong place. Exporting from LDD there are some pieces that are not in the LeoCad library. I've tracked down some pieces and added to my library successfully, but it seems some head and torsos are missing and I can't find them anywhere. (See image below) How can I get around this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  3. I present to you the back bone of the Rebel Alliance – the GR-75 Rebel Transport: After having tweaked and tweaked for my last MOC (Medical Frigate) and built a fleet of fighters and smaller ships for it, I wanted to build something bigger - but in the same scale. I chose the beautiful, organic looking 90-meters long, Rebel Transport. The Medical Frigate can be seen here: http://www.eurobrick...pic=129607&st=0 http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=131170 The Transport is the workhorse of the Rebel alliance, transporting equipment from base to base. The ship can house dozens of odd sized containers kept in place by strong magnetic locks. The Transport, like so many other Rebel ships, have a very organic and beat up look – getting this look right was the biggest challenge when designing the moc. The scale of the model is 1: 250 meaning it is built at 2 meters per stud. Thus the Transport is 45 studs long. Building the most detailed 45 stud version of the ship was my main goal. Based on pictures of the movie model I calculated the width and curvature of the ship – I fired up LDD and began building. What I ended up with was an 850+ brick model made up of 150+ brick types: The Transport takes flight! Front view. In this picture the curvature of the ship is very pronounced. To my luck the range of curved bricks fit perfectly with curvature of the ship. When placed along a central spine they further underline the lines the Transport has across the hull. Don’t mind the small hole in the front – one of the hinges is slightly too bent. Top view. I have mostly used white 1 x 4 curved slopes to get the proper shape. However, to get the dirty, rugged look of the ship, I have mixed in a number of different colors and other curved slopes. The Cargo. The GR-75 can carry a LOT of containers. Creating this part of the ship was kind of a chore but also very fun. At this scale I had just enough resolution to attempt recreating every single cargo container and detail from the studio model. I found a picture of the model showing the bottom up and began mapping every container pipe and greeble I could. I recreated it all with bricks of matching colors, pipes, taps and odd shaped pieces. The end result matches the haphazard stacking of the studio model – I’m glad I put the magnetic locks in place… :) Containers from the back. As with the Medical Frigate, one of the challenges was creating a sturdy non-interfering stand. With this ship one of the stands is placed in the middle of the containers. However I did not want to sacrifice even a single compartment so I found a workaround using transparent wall pieces. The slim piece is fitted snugly in between a number of containers and is just connected via two studs – but it seems to hold :) Container close up. They are all there :) Starboard profile view. This angle reveals the slight sloping of the hull towards the rear end of the ship. The curving effect was achieved by a number of plate hinges and four sections with slightly different angles. Port profile view. The profile views show the gap between the top and bottom hull plates. This gap has a jagged effect on the studio model – conveyed here by 1 x 1 and 1 x 2 plates. Side detail. Yes, there is actually detailing in the narrow gap between the hull plates. Again, the greebling is based on looking at the studio model – and on what was possible in such a small area :) Engine view. As always, one of my favorite parts of a ship. Getting all the engines to fit in there was a bit of a challenge. Rear view. As the Transport flies out of focus the uneven surface is again evident. The Transport has a very small command/deflector module - the little thing on top of the spine. To be in scale this module should actually be about half a stud smaller – even smaller than a B-wing cockpit section. However, the 2,5 stud test I did, did not look very good :) Lastly a scale comparison with the Medical Frigate – and the rest of the rebel fleet :) Thanks to all the supporters of the Medical Frigate project, you have helped make this model possible! Everyone can get the LDD for the Rebel Transport here: https://www.dropbox..../GR-75.lxf?dl=0 Enjoy and please comment!
  4. Inspired by the Speed Champions cars. Last year I built a car showroom to show them off. Al's Autos is built on 3 large baseplates. On the left baseplate the blue and white sign has doubled sided brick plate writing and rotates on a Technic turntable. The showroom has a roller door entry behind the office on the left. It is fully tiled inside and lit with PF LEDs. On the right baseplate the brown turntable also rotates on a Technic turntable. The footpath is designed to match up to the Modular footpaths. My own creation cars are a Pick Up truck with removable Camper. A Ford GT40 reverse engineered from a LEGO YouTube movie. The black Pontiac is a KITT replica and has a working red LED scanner in the front. Next was a service centre / workshop for the showroom.The back section is a parts department. On the right are two service bays. The front one has a working Technic pneumatic hoist. Also PF LED lighting. The shipping containers can fit a Speed Champions car or spare parts. To keep the cars clean I next built a car wash. This has a working Technic based linear actuator to move the brushes back and forward over the car. So after a long day. It's off to the Drive In movies. The diner has a projection room, kitchen, counter, seating and toilet. My own creation cars are two NYPD police cars with working light bars. A yellow NY taxi. The two Porsche 911's are modified with brick headlights and door handles. The ambulance has working LED light bars, headlights and taillights One day I will get around to doing close up and interior photos.
  5. Hello everyone !!! So after some on and off work designing this thing both IRL & LDD i am very proud and happy to show you my Batmobile as it appears on Batman V Superman. I tried to make this model as accurate as i could and the recent images,game DLC´s & toys helped a lot,not only that but the model is very stable and i know this is a small detail that´s pretty much standard with other Batmobiles but... i managed to make the wheels roll with all the armor on it !!! :D So let´s start with the front,definetly a challenging part to do as at first i had no idea how to pull off the shapes & angles, not only that but belive it or not i had trouble doing the turret Things got difficult on the sides, as the actual car has a lot of angles and shapes that are almost impossible to make a 100 % acurate representation on this scale.... however i think i did a fairly decent job doing those The back was fairly simple to do... it took me a while to find a correct size of tires but once i did everything went smoothly.... BTW Credit to JANGBRICKS for the idea of using that motor piece for the Turbine/engine/exaust pipe... So that´s pretty much it guys i hope you like this build as much as i do and if you do want to build this yourself here´s a link were you can buy the instructions : Happy building !! -Prime
  6. [Rules of the Topic] [Statistics] - - - - - - - - - - [Not Indexed Yet Entries] [Themes A-C] - - - - [Themes D-M] - - - - [Themes N-S] - - - - [Themes T-Z] [Begin of the entries] - - - - - - - - - - [Last Update Point] Rules of the Topic (Please read these guidelines before posting) Here are some guidelines created in order to help to maintain this topic well ordered and help to built the index! Allowed Sets Set that has been officially released by LEGO and available for the purchase. Set whose Official Instructions has been released from TLG and are available in LEGO website. IMPORTANT NOTE: if building instructions or set's references are not easily available on common sources, please report that. The Set have to be constructed using official LEGO instructions and not interpreting preliminary or official images. The Set have to contain something you can build. Sets with scattered parts or single or few minifigures are not allowed. Irregular Posts Important NOTE: Irregular entries (inserted in posts that don't respect the Topic's Rules) won't be indexed. When you fix an irregular post, inform the indexer, so that he can update the index database. Good habits Avoid unnecessary posts inside this topic, if possible. Always use a new post to add new entry/entries. Don't add (or remove!) models to any existing post. If you think to build more sets in a short period of time, don't post them one by one but amass a bit of them and then post them together. Try to avoid to post more than one time in a single day. For any question/explanation/request/communication contact the indexer using private messages, when possible. Use of images in the topic [Guide] Only images related to posted sets (and then lxf file) are allowed, as a preview. Only one image for each set is allowed. Don't quote images from other posts. Any other image can be inserted as text link. Images should be simple and clear: no "creative" images are allowed, but simple screenshots. Avoid compositions (more images in one), images with another image as background, animated images, 3D images, renderings with external software, image with custom added parts, etc... Try to place objects inside the image so that the image results compact (i.e. avoid internal large blank space if possible) but clear. Try to place the camera so that the set results well visible. Avoid flat framing but choose a good 3D angle. As images are for preview purpose only, should be not too big! Maximum size allowed is 512x512 pixels for big sets (such as castles, modular buildings, stations, large space ships, etc...). Use intermediate sizes (for example 448px, 384px, 320px, ...) for smaller models. The 256x256px size or lower is often good for small sets. Crop images completely removing horizontal and vertical blank stripes around the subject (zero-pixles margins). Insert a model Report set's data and emphasize that in bold. Set's data include set Number, set official Name and set's Theme and subtheme if any. For example: 5988 - Pharaoh's Forbidden Ruins - Theme: Adventure If the set has more "configurations" (different models), please specify which one you are reproducing with LDD (Model A, Model B, etc...). NOTE: Alternate Versions (official different configurations for the same set) are counted as separate sets. If the set has been Re-Released with an identical or similar version, report the alternate Set ID(s). Report both the version of LDD and the brickset used to build the model. Insert a screenshot of your creation, in order to provide a preview. One screenshot for each set (see the rules about images above). Report if the model is complete or some piece is missing or replaced by a custom solution. Don't divide a single set in more than one post. Put a single set in a single .lxf file. You are encouraged to use LDD groups function to separate different elements in complex sets. LDD model should be similar to the original model as much as possible. Include minifigs, if any. Replace missing decorations with suitable ones, if possible. Modified models are welcome, but in different .lxf files, as an "extra". Every personalization (personal logos, additions, changes) makes a model a "Modified Model". and obviously... Share you lxf file! Update a set Update the post where you originally inserted the set. Report the update in the Upgrade Topic. Be care to follow the rules of the Upgrade Topic. [Sets created by other users] Book or Request a set Refer to "Official Lego sets - Book, WIP, Requests" Topic. NOTE: you can ever choose to make an already made or booked set, if you want. Besides You are encouraged to inform an LDD file maker if you notice an adjustable defect in his/her LDD file! If you notice something wrong in the index, please report it to the indexer. If you use custom pieces to replace missing bricks in LDD, please post it in the "LDD custom bricks" Topic! Rules in brief Read the rules before posting here. Only regular entries will be indexed. Allowed sets: instructions officially released, no spared parts. Report references if necessary. Insert a model General rules: don't split model in more posts, don't add or remove entries to an existing post, group entries. Don't add personalizations to the model (except in order to replace missing parts). Use Groups. Extra are allowed, as text links. Necessary content: Set's Data, Image, LXF File, Error List. - Set's data: Set's ID, Set's name, Theme/Subtheme, alternative model (Model A, B, ...), alternative Set IDs if any. - Image: one for each entry, simple screenshots, maximum size 512x (big sets), crop, not scattered, no flat view, PNG with Alpha channel. - LXF file: one for each entry, direct link, report LDD and brickset version. - Error List: missing bricks/decorations, replaced brick/decorations, brick made replacements. Various: minimal quotes, don't quote images, report errors. (index/other entries).
  7. While I'm not sure how much this will help people right now. I am working on building 75192 in LDD. I am separating the build into "bags" like the set. When I finish this, I will try to put it all together without LDD crashing, but, with the number of pieces and number of angles, I don't know how that will work. I have read some people saying they don't have $800 to shell out for 75192 and they were thinking about bricklinking it. If so, this may be the way you want to do it. If it doesn't help anyone now, it will when this set is discounted. I will update and edit this as I finish "bags". I am on 8 now. I am still working on it. Also, keep in mind, some pieces are not available in LDD. I will update as I come across them. LDD files are in my Brickshelf gallery when modded. Bag 1, The Frame: 705 pieces. Bag 2, Landing Gear: 388 pieces. The 6 landing gear are identical to build. Bag 3, Forward Rooms, Gunner Seat, Greebling and Front Landing Gear: 545 pieces. Forward landing gear is the same as Bag 2. Missing stickers. Bag 4, Rear Rooms: 457 pieces, missing are 4 Light Bluish Gray, 27263, Modified 2 x 2 Corner with Cut Corner - Facet, I used 14719 on the model. Missing stickers. Bag 5, Rear Engines: I couldn't get the boat rigging pieces on there, they won't flex. Also missing are 6 Trans Light Blue, Hose, Ribbed mm D. 26L. Not available in LDD. 458 pieces, 464 when you add the missing pieces/ hoses. Bag 6 , Forward Mandibles: 530 pieces. Bag 7, Underside of Mandibles: 295 pieces. Which is odd, I figured this would be an even number since the builds are identical. I may have screwed up here, just noticed it when posting. Bag 8, various bits of the underside. 356 pieces. Bag 9, Tops of the mandibles. 426 pieces. Nothing missing, but, the 2, 2 x 4 curved slope pieces are printed. Bag 10, Final parts of the underside, including bottom Quad Laser. 454 Pieces, but, 2 pieces are not available in LDD. 2 light Bluish Gray, 26599, Plate, Modified 2 x 4 with Pin Holes used on the boarding ramp. Bag 11, Starting the top of the ship now. 361 pieces. Missing 8 White 30166, Minifig, Shield Rectangular with 4 Studs. If you are going to Bricklink this set, you can sub 30166pb01, same part, same color, just with a window print on it from 75166: First Order Transport Speeder Battle Pack. You get one in the Battle Pack. So Bricklink maybe with best option!! Also, after posting this, I realized i missed 2 pieces on the right section. So, the total for this "bag" is 369. The file on Brickshelf is correct. Bag 11 coming soon. Jamie
  8. Assembling Bricksburg

    edited to put all final images in the first post... After seeing the LEGO movie, I wanted to re-create buildings from Emmet's neighborhood. While researching, I realized a great deal of what was in the movie was based on previously-existing sets. I thought it would be interesting to do a project that compared the original LEGO sets to the modified movie versions. Knowing how much time, money, and physical space it would take to build these out of real bricks, I decided to try my hand at LEGO Digital Designer (LDD). After having created a couple of the buildings in LDD, I ran across the post for Bluerender and used it to generate photo-real renderings. Here are my results: .lxf file: http://www.brickshel...logo_final_.lxf The latest image posts: Octan offices. Nathan Sawaya's Oscar statue from the 2015 Academy Awards. The latest WIP of Emmet's Mech (with BlackStar): .lxf file: Emmet's apartment Emmet's apartment interior How Emmet fits a 50-stud-wide apartment into a 30-stud-wide building: A variation on Emmet's apartment (green with a slanted roof) Pet Store (right) Pet Store (left) Plumber Joe's apartment .lxf file: http://www.brickshel...the_plumber.lxf Condemned building Fresh Fruit market Sherrie Scratchen-Post's apartment Emmet's street Emmet's street in micro scale Fire Brigade .lxf file: http://www.brickshel...ire_brigade.lxf Fire Brigade tower (original) Fire Brigade Tower (updated) Filling Station Garage Street Corner Rooftop garden 1 Rooftop garden 2 An example of the reuse of building parts Warehouse 1 Warehouse 2 (Fire Brigade) Mega Green Grocer Bricksburg Castle Bricksburg Castle back Cafe Corner / hotel with clock tower Fish (market?/restaurant?) Office(?) Building Office Building Church It's not mentioned in the images, but the the ice cream cart in this image, the giant Green Grocer, and the "fish" building comes from 10211 Grand Emporium. Cheese Slope building Fire Brigade Radio Station Plaza with Bob's Kabobs Here are some Bricksburg accessories from the Movie, including garbage containers, rooftop details, a street corner, billboards, and the mosaics from the "fish" and "fresh fruit" buildings, including the LDD file, for you to use in your own MOCs: lxf file: http://www.brickshel...accessories.lxf Condemned building Condemned building Ma and Pa Cop's house Highway Overpass Monorail stop Skyscraper ground level The Coffee Chain Skyscraper 1 Skyscraper 2 Skyscraper 3 Skyscraper 4 Skyscraper 5 Skyscraper 6 Skyscraper 7 Downtown: Flying cranes Downtown: Larry's flying coffee machine Skyscraper under construction 1 Skyscraper under construction 2 Construction site Small cement mixer Tipper Truck Cement mixer Dump Truck Crawler Crane Instruction Tube Large crawler crane Instruction Holder Building cranes Building crane Construction helicrane Brick sorter Front end loader Back hoe Heavy loader Rush hour traffic Small car Public transportation, monorail, and Surfer Dave's car SUV Small van Delivery truck Police cruiser SWAT van Octan HQ micro scale upper floors Octan HQ micro scale Octan HQ from Finn's basement Octan HQ minifig scale Lord Business' relic room Octan corridor with MetalBeard and Benny Octan sound stage--news conference stage Octan sound stage--80s-something technology Octan sound stage--Where Are My Pants? Octan Control Room. Octan DJ booth Octan Executive Conference Room The many moods of MetalBeard MetalBeard's strong, virile body MetalBeard's "Down on the Farm" form Mrs. Scratchen-Post's kitty sled lxf file: http://www.brickshel...post_sleigh.lxf A Christmas tree assembled by The LEGO Movie Master Builders Emmet's snow sculpture Mark Mothersbaugh's LEGO energy domes from the 2015 Academy Awards Awards given to all Emmet Awards nominees More on the way!
  9. So, if I turned any of these things into an LDD file, which one would you prefer?
  10. Thanks to the open source SunFlow rendering system, i'm able to present: Bluerender A rendering engine for Lego Digital Designer. How it works: You just open the LXF file with Bluerender and click the big Render button. Optionally, you can choose an output png file and do a "preview" render: it will render the model in wireframe (useful for testing and framing your model). A set of default settings is provided that should looks good for most renders, but you can tinker with the scene description to use the full power of SunFlow. Rendering is fast, a 1024x768 image usually take no more than five minutes on average pc. This project came about as an experiment when i discovered that i could integrate SunFlow into Blueprint code with minimal effort. It's by no mean a competitor to Povray, which is slow but ultra-high quality, professional renderer. Features: Renders models, even big ones (tested on 12k piece models) Completely customizable scene Use camera settings from lxf file, so you can just frame your model in LDD. Support for LDD decorations and decoration substitution Limitations: many :P Documentation: A wiki is available with plenty of documentation. Using the renderer with default settings is quite simple. If you want to customize light, materials etc, you can change the scene description, simply edit the included file. The syntax of the scene description is that of Sunflow and should be easy, there are some examples inside. Anyway some documentation is available here (note: it may be a little outdated at times). You can optionally have a custom scene file for each model: simply copy the file and name it like your lxf model (for example, if you have spaceship.lxf, create the file, in the same folder of course). You can override LDD decoration with your own adding lines like this in your scene file (the number is the decoration ID): ##CHANGEDECOR 59879 c:\path\to\custom\mydecor.png Issue Tracker: Have any bug or feature request? Be a good fellow and report it in our shiny issue tracker. Requirements: Java8 (revision 8u40 or better) Lego Digital Designer Disclaimer: Use at your own risk, i decline any responsability for anything that may happen to you using the program. Download: You can download Bluerender vers. 0005 here. Flickr Group: You can add your renders to the official Bluerender Lego Rendering group. Running on Mac: Some people were able to run Bluerender on Mac. Try the following instructions: Remove all java installations Install Java, but not from Oracle, from Homebrew instead. What's HomeBrew? I've no idea, but you can try following these instruction. Open a command prompt/shell/terminal, cd to the folder where you unzipped Bluerender Enter the following command: java -cp "bin/*" bluerender.BlueRender If the program manage to start, it will ask you to locate the db.lif file, you should find it here: /Users/USERNAME/Library/Application Support/LEGO Company/LEGO Digital Designer/db.lif Special thanks: to Bublible for his help with the renderer. to Jackalope for his help testing the app on Mac. to Fabrizio for his precious time as beta tester. Screenshot: Example Output: (these models are taken from the web, not mine) More examples can be found here. Here you can find a 3027x2304 render of a 12000 parts model, took about 30 minutes. Changelog: 0005: Black is now real black #93 Glass is now lighter #82 (thanks to bublible) Implemented bublible chrome materials #73 (thanks to bublible) Corrected NPE with invalid color codes (default to white) #86 Implemented aliases parsing and caching #81, #68 360° rotation renders #71 can now place light with transform{} blocks #72 (thanks to bublible) overwrite and other options are now persisted #64 basic parameters are now in the app #65 changed default background to white 0004: Janino shaders now work Automatic aspect ratio Overwrite without asking checkbox No longer "forget" some flexible elements Correct background color reflection for mirrors (no more black) 0003: Model loading is fast again (even faster!) Some textured glass support (not perfect yet) Clickable scene label (opens the scene file) Self adjusting plane height Search file in db folder beside db.lif Bugfixes 0002: remembers last used folder ask before overwrite use a single file instead of three files for setup, materials, lights scene files are not shown on the program anymore (was more confusion than anything) optional per-model scene file LDD decoration support custom decoration support 0001: initial release
  11. I'm trying to build an old steam ship as a model, first in LDD to see if its plausible and to estimate the required parts. But I've run in to a tight spot. the engines (2) where triple expansion steam. 3 cylinders. 2,5m long 2m high scaling to 1:40 via gives me approximately 8 studs long. Only I'm stuck at 10 (11), which wouldn't be a problem you'd think, but the engine room where they are going into is small and there is other equipment to place as well (or I'd like too) So if there is anyone who has an idea how to downsize what I've got length wise. without losing the ability of the pistons going up and down when the crank rotates. best regards, Bart
  12. The parts are already here Let's built ! more pics when it will be brickbuilt of course.. This is just a trailer the only question for me is between class 6 or 7
  13. I propose to keep here an up-to-date ldraw.xml, the file used by LDD to convert to and from LDraw files. Download: latest version On Windows: download and replace the one in “C:\Program Files\LEGO Company\LEGO Digital Designer\” On Mac: download and replace the one in the “Contents\Resources\” folder in the app (open “Applications” in Finder, right click on the “LEGO Digital Designer” package and select the “Show Package Contents” option to explore the pakage folders). (Thanks manglegrat!) If you have other modifications or additions, post them here or send me a personal message and I’ll include them to the benefit of all. If you need a part, feel free to ask here and I’ll try to add it (provided it exists in LDraw and LDD). History and Contents It’s based upon gallaghersart’s latest version (see this thread). It includes the modifications shutterfreak published in his thread. It uses some of the LDraw unofficial parts (mainly for new parts in LDD Brick version 2075). It includes some name corrections (because LDraw renamed or moved some parts, added new variants, etc.). I tried to more accurately convert the colors (now mainly according to Ryan Howerter’s conversion table). It’s not easy because all sources (Swooshable, Mecabricks, Ryan) don’t agree, and there are holes and overlaps. But as these differences, holes, and overlaps occur for rare colors or colors that aren’t available in LDD, it should be okay. In a megalomaniacal way, all the entries I have modified have an “SLS” at the end of their heading comments. New entries have an “SLS” at the front of the comments. So it’s easy to know when to blame me. As of 2016-09-16 and the big overhaul, I assume all the errors. Know Limitations As of LDD 4.3.9, flex parts (hoses) are not exported anymore (even unflexed). Minifig arms and hands are not connected in LDraw. I don’t know whose geometry is off (both?) but the shapes differ a lot. At least, hands are correctly connected to whatever they clip and arms are correctly placed in their sockets and somewhat wrap around the hands’s stems. Some variants are not recognized by LDD (e.g. clips, or tiles with/without groove, etc.) In those cases, I prefer to use the most recent variant in LDraw as it generally is easier to find and cheaper. Sometimes, several LDD parts correspond to a unique LDraw part. Sometimes, the transformation is accurate for one variant but not for another. For example, the Flag 2 x 2 is known to LDD as 2335, 11055, and 60779, but LDraw only has the 2335 variant. 2335 and 60779 use the same transformation but 11055 is vertically offset. I preferred to badly convert 11055 to 2335 rather than not convert it at all or badly convert 2335 and 60779. ldraw.xml is used both ways (LDD to/from LDraw). It’s not something I do frequently (too many resulting collisions) so it’s not well tested. One problem I can see is that, when several LDD parts correspond to a unique LDraw part, the conversion that’s listed last is the one that will be used. The reverse (first written is the one used) is true for assemblies that use the same subparts, in the same quantity (like electric cables). A lot of LDraw parts are simply wrong. Almost all the parts that combine System (studs and anti-studs) and Technic (pins and axles, and their holes) are wrong in that they assume the technic holes are at the same height than side studs (on the picture below, the circles are concentric). LDD assumes the holes are 0.2 mm (0.5 LDU) higher. In ABS, the holes are 0.12 mm (0.375 LDU) higher (dixit Jamie Berard in his famous presentation). In order to limit the number and magnitude of errors, LDD is considered to be right. How to write a new transformation for a part in ldraw.xml What? ldraw.xml is an XML file that defines how LDD can export to (or import from) LDraw files. It does so by defining a match between the part’s IDs and how to rotate and translate the part from one geometry to the other. Matches are defined by “Brick” XML elements. For example, this one says to LDD that the Brick 1x1 that it knows as 3005 is also known to LDraw as 3005: <Brick ldraw="3005.dat" lego="3005" /> (Note the “.dat” in the ldraw ID.) Matches are not needed if the part IDs are the same: the transformation element is sufficient for LDD to know the part exists. (So the example above is useless ) Rotations and translations are defined by “Transformation” XML elements. This one says to LDD that the Brick 1x1 just needs to be moved up: <Transformation ldraw="3005.dat" tx="0" ty="-.96" tz="0" ax="1" ay="0" az="0" angle="0" /> The translation (tx, ty, and tz) is in centimeters (0.8 cm is the width of a brick, 0.96 cm its height). The rotation is given by its axis (the line passing through and ), and its angle in radians. And all the coordinates are in the direct (“riht-handed”), Y points up, coordinates system of LDD. The transformation explains what should be done to import from LDraw besides changing the axes (LDD’s Y is up and XYZ is a direct basis, LDraw’s Y is down and XYZ is an indirect basis; so changing the axes only means changing the sign of Y). So, in an LDD to LDraw point of view, the transformation is reversed: it says what happens to a part if you don’t do anything to its coordinates besides changing the sign of Y. In other words, the opposite transformation has to be applied to the LDD coordinates of the part in order to get the LDraw coordinates (with Y reversed). Why? Each part has an orientation (which way up? which way left?) and a center, point of origin, or reference point (we’ll use “reference point” from now on). But LDD and LDraw don’t always agree. To know the orientation and reference point in LDD, insert the part without rotating it nor attaching it to any other part. It will be aligned along the scene’s axes (LDD’s axes). The reference point is near the mouse pointer’s head. To know the orientation and reference point in LDraw, I find LeoCAD the easiest tool: just select the part and its axes are drawn (X red, Y green, Z blue), starting at its reference point. Okay, LeoCAD’s «X, Y, Z» is LDraw’s «X, -Z, Y» but what’s another little change of basis? Sometimes, their disagreement is trivial. For example, for the simple 1x1 brick (3005), both LDD and LDraw agree: the stud is on top and the reference point is on the vertical line going through the center of the stud. But they differ for the height at which the reference point should be: LDD says it’s at the base of the brick, LDraw at its top (but at the base of the stud). (On every picture, X will be red, Y green, and Z blue.) So the transformation for that part is straightforward: if the LDraw part is imported as is, with only Y reversed, it will end up 0.96 cm (the height of the brick) higher than it should. So we have to lower it by 0.96 cm: <Transformation ldraw="3005.dat" tx="0" ty="-.96" tz="0" ax="1" ay="0" az="0" angle="0" /> Sometimes, their disagreement is more profound and the transformation is therefore more complicated. For example, for the musket (Minifig Gun Musket 2561), LDD puts the reference point in the handle and “up” means the handle is vertical but LDraw puts the reference point in the barrel and “up” means the barrel is vertical. Even more, the stock is on the wrong side, so X and Z are different too. With an identity transformation, the part is rotated by an eighth of a turn (X to Y) (π/4) around the Z axis to put the barrel vertical, and then by a quarter turn (X to Z) (-π/2) around the Y axis. After that, it has been translated up and horizontally. After calculations (see below), we’ll end up with this transformation: <Transformation ldraw="2561.dat" tx="0" ty="-1.72" tz="0.336" ax="-0.3574067443365933" ay="-0.8628562094610169" az="0.3574067443365933" angle="1.7177715174584016"/> How? So, how do we find the right values to have the correct transformations? What’s the ID? Having the right part Check the ID of the part in LDD. Check the ID of the part in LDraw. Beware of variants, LDraw uses a letter suffix (a, b, c…) where LDD totally changes the ID or keeps the same ID for new variants. Don’t hesitate to look on BrickLink for the part ID: BrickLink keeps a list of alternate IDs (when the same part has several IDs) and links to variants and notes. If the IDs are the same. Nothing to do. If the IDs differ. We add a Brick element: <Brick ldraw="123a.dat" lego="456" /> Don’t forget the “.dat”! That was the easy part. Which way is up? Finding the rotation axis and angle We start in LDD. Up is Y, or Y is up. X and Z are a bit harder to see on the LDD scene unless you use LDD’s developper mode (which has the LDD axes drawn at «0,0,0» as red X, green Y, and blue Z lines). Or, if you’re sure you didn’t move the camera in a brand new model/file, X is pointing bottom right, and Z bottom left. We place our part among other parts that we know will be correctly converted (like 1x1 plates, or harpoons ) to have references. Using different colors greatly helps! We export to LDraw… … and look at the results: We decompose the transformation in multiple simple rotations, around the X, Y, or Z axis. If it has been turned around X, a quarter turn from Y to Z is a positive π/2 angle. If it has been turned around Z, a quarter turn from X to Y is a positive π/2 angle. If it has been turned around Y, a quarter turn from Z to X is a positive π/2 angle. To make it short, it’s a direct (right-handed) basis. If you can’t figure out the problems with an existing transformation, “clear” it by using an identity transformation: <transformation tx="0" ty="0 tz="0" ax="0" ay="1" az="0 angle="0"/> (All zeroes but one of the a_ which is 1.) You can try each simple rotation one by one to be sure of their angles (especially their signs ). Beware, combining rotations change their axes (e.g. turning around first X then Y is equivalent to turning around first Y then Z). So if you check that the Y rotation is okay, then the X rotation, don’t forget to combine them as Y then Z. For the musket, we need two rotations: an eighth of a turn (π/4, 45°) around the Z (blue) axis that puts the barrel vertical, and then a quarter turn (-π/2, -90°) around the Y (green) axis. Or we can first make the quarter turn (-π/2, -90°) around the Y (green) axis, and then an eighth of a turn (π/4, 45°) around the X (red) axis. Remember, “import”-wise, we’re trying to find what should happen to the part in the LDD scene to be like the LDraw one, with the LDD axes (the harpoons ). My head is turning. Combining rotations If more than one simple rotation is needed, we have to combine them. For that, we’ll use quaternions. Eh come back! That’s not that difficult! A quaternion q can be written as q = a + b.i + c.j + d.k, where i² = j² = k² = i.j.k = -1 (so i.j = k = -j.i, j.k = i = -k.j, k.i = j = -i.k). a is the real part, b.i + c.j + d.k is the imaginary part. A rotation by the angle angle around the axis «ax, ay, az» is the quaternion q = cos(angle/2) + sin(angle/2).(ax.i + ay.j + az.k) Do note the 1/2 factor on the angle! To combine two rotations, we just multiply their quaternions and apply the rules above to end up with a a + b.i + c.j + d.k form (or, more accurately, a C + S.(ax.i + ay.j + az.k) form, where C and S are cosine and sine of the same angle and ax² + ay² + az² = 1 ). If we rotate first by q and then by p, the result is the rotation by p.q. Note the order: q then p is p.q. Multiplication is not commutative with quaternions: if you do it the wrong way, you’ll end up with the correct values but the wrong signs. There’re lots of fun to have with quaternions and rotations as quaternions. But what is said here is sufficient for our purposes. An example: Most of the times, we do π/2 rotations (quarter turns, 90°). angle = π/2 therefore cos(angle/2) = sin(angle/2) = cos(π/4) = sin(π/4) = √2/2; So, for a “horizontal” quarter turn (yaw, around Y): q = √2/2 + √2/2.j (as j/Y is the “vertical” axis). Let’s combine it with a half turn (π, 180°) around the X axis (IOW, upside-down): cos(π/2) = 0, sin(π/2) = 1, so p = 0 + i p.q = (0 + i) . (√2/2 + √2/2 j) = √2/2 i + √2/2 i.j = 0 + √2/2 ( i + k ) Now, let’s get the resulting angle: The real part of p.q, 0, is the cosine of angle/2. 0 is also the cosine of ±π/2 (±90°). Therefore, the resulting angle is π (180°). Now the axis, «ax, ay, az»: It’s the √2/2( i + k) imaginary part. That’s the vector «√2/2, 0, √2/2». We need to remove the sin(angle/2) factor. That’s easy as the sine of π/2 is 1. So our axis is «ax = √2/2, ay = 0, az = √2/2». Written in ldraw.xml: ax="0.707…" ay="0" az="0.707…" angle="3.1415…" Another one, a quarter turn around Y and then around X: q = √2/2 + √2/2 j = √2/2 (1 + j) p = √2/2 + √2/2 i = √2/2 (1 + i) p.q = 1/2 (1 + i) (1 + j) = 1/2 + 1/2 (i + j + k) We rewrite it as p.q = 1/2 + √3/2 (√⅓ i + √⅓ j + √⅓ k) to have a unit vector (ax² + ay² + az² = 1) in the parenthesis and to clarify the cosine and sine: 1/2 and √3/2. They are the sine and cosine of π/3 (60°). Therefore, the resulting angle is 2π/3 (120°). In ldraw.xml: ax="0.577…" ay="0.577…" az="0.577…" angle="2.094…" Back to our musket: An eighth of a turn (π/4, 45°) around the Z axis that puts the barrel vertical: q = cos(π/8) + sin(π/8).i = C + S.k Then a quarter turn (-π/2, -90°) around the Y axis: p = cos(-π/4) + sin(-π/4).j = √2/2 (1 - j) p.q = √2/2.(1 - j)(C + S.k) = √2/2.(C - S.j.k - C.j + S.k) = √2/2.C + (-√2/2.S.i - √2/2.C.j + √2/2.S.k) Wow! Hum, okay. So √2/2.cos(-π/8) is the cosine of half our angle. Get the calculator out… angle/2 = Acos(√2/2.cos(-π/8)) = 0.8589 Our angle is 1.7178. We “remove” the sine of angle/2 from our vector, so that p.q = cos(angle/2) + sin(angle/2).(ax.i + ay.j + az.k): ax = -√2/2.sin(-π/8) / sin(0.8589) = -0.3574 ay = -√2/2.cos(-π/8) / sin(0.8589) = -0.8629 az = √2/2.sin(-π/8) / sin(0.8589) = 0.3574 As an exercise, you can verify that ax² + ay² + az² = 1. So we did it right! Et voilà: ax="-0.3574067443365933" ay="-0.8628562094610169" az="0.3574067443365933" angle="1.7177715174584016" One step to the left. Getting the translation right Now that the part is correctly oriented, it may need to be moved. The translation is in centimeters (cm). 20 LDU = 0.8 cm. Values are often multiples of 0.4 (half a stud) for tx and tz and multiples of 0.32 (height of a plate) for ty. Other, finer, tunings are often in multiples of 0.008. If the rotation is complex, all bets are off In LDD, we try to place the part so that its LDraw up axis ends up up in the scene, and we try to align its LDraw X and Z axes with X and Z of the scene (at least, that it is not rotated by a weird angle). That way, moving the part along its axes is also moving the part along the scene’s axes. It will be easier for getting the translation right. For our musket, that means the barrel up. (I didn’t align the X and Z axes here because, yeah, I’m a warrior, I don’t need that. Besides, you’ll see what happens because of that. ) Again, I find it easier in LeoCAD: the key bindings, the coordinates clearly shown in the status bar, etc. The thing is, LeoCAD uses a direct Z up basis. So if you move «dx, dy, dz» in LeoCAD, you’re moving «dx, -dz, dy» in LDD (and vice versa). Confusing? Noooh. Anyway, choose your own poison but beware of its little quirks. To help fine tuning, using transparent colors greatly helps, especially for clip-bar connections. Now, we note the coordinates of our part in our LDraw editor and move it so that it ends up the way it should. We look how much we moved it. That’s it! Just convert it to cm (= LDU × 0.8 / 20) and we have our translation. Well, mostly, the signs are wrong. Remember: the transformation is what should happen to the LDD part to end up like the LDraw part, we just did the opposite and moved the LDraw part to be like the LDD one. Besides the signs, if you didn’t correctly align the axes, you’ll have to find which is which For our musket, we need to go up and sligthly to the “left” (from bottom right to upper left when your LDraw view is oriented as a new LDD file, as are all the screenshots here). That means negative dy and dx. But as the part is not aligned on X and Z (but still not badly rotated), the negative dx becomes a positive dz. Et voilà! <Transformation ldraw="2561.dat" tx="0" ty="-1.72" tz="0.336" ax="-0.3574067443365933" ay="-0.8628562094610169" az="0.3574067443365933" angle="1.7177715174584016"/> (So, okay. I had to try first tx then tz, both negative and positive, before I found the right one. But I didn’t want to have to remake the pictures! There: I’m not a warrior, I’m just lazy.)
  14. Build by Lego's rendering pics. Things that been modified: Roof, TV, bath room, car, decors, minifig etc. Have fun! LXF: http://www.eurobrick...75#entry1747714 Youtube Unofficial LDD 71006 The Simpsons House Roof MOD and more by Nachapon S., on Flickr Youtube Unofficial LDD 71006 The Simpsons House Roof MOD and more 3 by Nachapon S., on Flickr Youtube Unofficial LDD 71006 The Simpsons House Roof MOD and more 2 by Nachapon S., on Flickr
  15. Hi, hope this is the right place to ask this question. I'm trying to build a small cone-shaped structure that changes diameter from 5 studs down to 2 studs with a height of only 6 plates. Stacking 6942 "lamp shade" on top of 15395 "dome 2x2 inverted with one stud" looks like it should fit, but LDD refuses to allow this connection. I even tried adding 1x1 plates as a scaffold. An exploded view of the assembly is this: I don't own either of these parts, so could someone tell me - is this really an impossible connection, or can it be done in real life?
  16. In the street of Weelond, the Oktober Fest is going full swing A fire breather is doing the show ! reverse view : C&C welcome, it's only a LDD built for I have not very much time with many builts and many homeworks (plumbing, painting) that are in progress. Could be licenced as a small street tavern
  17. UPDATE : 6th October 2017 The building instructions (PDF + partslist.xls) of my ITT are finally available! The rebrickable link is not valid yet (I'll do an update for that) but you can go to my website ( To help me a little to continue this passion, these instructions are paying (10 euros by paypal). Link to Rebrickable : My final MOC has 1154 pieces and has light f you want. I hope you enjoy! :) Keep on building! ----------------------------------------------- Hello from France Guys ! I'm Bricks Feeder and it's my first topic on Eurobricks! :) I show you my third version of my MOC of the ITT (Imperial Troop Transport) seen on the SW Rebels series. This MOC has the dimensions of the mining's scale with 1174 bricks. => Almost 21cm (L) x 10,5 cm (W) x 9cm (H) I'm trying to build a "cool" Interior of the cockpit. I'll continue to work on it. I am not satisfied yet ! I'll show you my advance and if I can, the real one! If you have some ideas or constructive criticisms, share with me please! I want to upgrade my skills! :) Enjoy and have a nice day! P.S. : If you have the time... Check my You Tube Channel! ;) My previous version can be seen in this video.
  18. I have been working on this since Rebels first came out, and I've seen a lot of really nice MOCs being built, mostly of the Phantom. But seeing so many talking about building a Ghost to match, I thought I'd show off what I have of mine so far. It is 134 studs long and 109 studs wide. The original intent was to have a full interior, I'm not 100% sure if that plan will make it through to the final design but we shall see. Currently the cockpit, main corridor, loading area, forward gun turret, Zeb&Ezra's room, Kanan's room and Sabine's room are fully fleshed out, I will probably do Hera's room since it was finally shown in season 2. I may upload those pictures in the future. But here is what I have for the exterior so far. I put in the official LEGO Ghost set for scale. Thoughts and opinions are welcome. I look forward to one day hopefully showing off the actualised model.
  19. Hi there, inhabitants of New Terra, pretty late, but here goes, presenting my first FB this month: The 'Royal Shipyards' in Breshaun With the ever growing demand for new ships in the waters of New Terra the naval yards in mainland Oleon alone cannot keep up. So some time ago already the 'Office Royal de la Marine' had decided to set up a branch of the 'Royal Shipyards' in the city of Breshaun, providing high-quality shipbuilding and ship maintenance expertise on-site. The compound is flourishing. It's constantly growing in size, and new buildings and installations are being added regularly, obvious proof of Oleon's expanding presence on the waves, as well as Breshaun's increasing importance for the Empire. Last month I presented a small peripheral facility to you, this time we're visiting the entrance of the 'Royal Shipyards' main compound situated directly at the mouth of Breshaun's harbor. about: Not much to say about it, could have been larger, but this month was pretty crowded. All is buildable, I'm kind of cool with the way the gate's arch turned out, the rest is rather regular business. The 'Crown-Wheel-Anchor'TM is the registered emblem of the 'Royal Shipyards' The architectural style is influenced by buildings I saw in Rochefort, France. It was a fun build, experienting with two colored walls and a SNOTed ceiling, but making the rider hold that letter was a real annoying job More of this shipyard is likely to follow. Thanks for watching, C&C as always very welcome! Vive le Roi!
  20. Go here for the download page. By using JWrapper, LDDMC now runs on both Windows, Mac and Linux, 32bit and 64bit, and without having to install Java. This software has been some years underway. Since I started this request topic, many have contributed with ideas and other input which has helped me developing this mosaic software. Features include - Build mosaics using plates, bricks, tiles, and even SNOT. - Manage exactly which colors you want to use - Export to LDD and LDraw. - Print building instructions. - Change input picture directly to improve the mosaic. - (Nearly) instant update of any change you make. - Full save and load functionality. - Automatic updating to latest version (thanks again to JWrapper) The software is written in Java and the full source is available at GitHub here. If there is anything you want improved, or if you have feature requests, then don't hesitate to either write in this thread or to me directly (
  21. Hello from France Guys ! I'm Bricks Feeder and it's my first topic on Eurobricks! :) I show you my MOC of the TIE Advanced Prototype (aka The Sith Inquisitor's TIE) seen on the SW Rebels series. I will make some pictures of my advance in the future but for the moment, I give you some videos (of my YouTube Channel) of my prototype on LDD. This MOC is based on the original LEGO set 75082. The "wings" were directly inspired by this forum on Eurobricks ( I'm trying to build a "cool" Interior of the cockpit. For that point, I'm inspired by the awesome TIE Fighters short film. I'm trying to be "accurate" but it's difficult when you found pictures of a subject with different "shapes" or variations of shape between them. So I based my model on the first appearance of this fighter in the Rebels Show... I made a second version with some upgrades of the articulations of the "wings" to get it stronger. Moreover, I change all the back! I'll continue to work on it. I am not satisfied yet ! I'll show you my advance and if I can, the real one! If you have some ideas or constructive criticisms, share with me please! I want to upgrade my skills! :) Enjoy and have a nice day! P.S. : If you have the time... Check my You Tube Channel! ;)
  22. Ever since I got my 21309 Saturn V, I thought it would be cool to have a model of the launch tower to go with it. I'm clearly not the only one because a similar model recently reached 10k votes on Lego Ideas - however, I'm impatient and so I decided to start building my own. I've been working in LDD due to a lack of physical bricks, and the first (very rough) sketch model is complete: The Saturn V rocket was launched from the Mobile Launch Platform (MLP, nothing to do with ponies...), a two story structure on which the rocket was constructed and fuelled. It measured 169x135 feet, or 56x46 studs at 1:110 scale, and also carried a 380 ft tall launch umbilical tower (LUT). The tower featured nine arms that provided electricity and other services to various parts of the rocket, and swung away just a fraction of a second before it blasted off. The rocket did not stand on the engine nozzles, but was instead suspended over a single exhaust vent measuring 45x45 feet. This should be 15x15 studs but I've gone with 14x14 studs for ease of building: I'm particularly proud of the design of the hold down arms: These four clamps held the rocket down until all five engines were confirmed to be running at full power, at which point they retracted behind heat-proof shields and allowed the Saturn V to soar skywards. Three additional holddown arms were located around the pad and have yet to be modelled. I'll add details once I have the core structure sorted. The base of the MLP uses 1x4x6 door frames like the version that was on Lego Ideas - an inspired choice which I've temporarily copied here (I'm actively trying to avoid looking at the Ideas model so I don't copy it), but I'm toying with 1x1x5 bricks to represent the support columns instead. I could really use some help and advice with this model though. How do I make it structurally sound? The MLP is a glorified box with a hole in it, but I've never built anything this big before and I'm not sure how to link together the baseplates. I had a few ideas for some internal supports: Do you think these would be strong enough? Should the outer wall be thicker? Should I criss-cross the entire hollow space with brick beams? How do I strike a good balance between strength and low parts count? You can view larger pictures and find the LDD file on bricksafe. If there's interest I'll make instructions available when the model is complete. Any advice or constructive feedback would be much appreciated!!
  23. (Picture links to Flickr) A concept for a Nexo Knights pack for Lego Dimensions. It includes Clay Moorington and a Rumble Blade that can be rebuilt into two other vehicles. I've done a fair number of Dimensions concepts largely because I adore the little microscale builds, but I'm still learning! This is the first model I've successfully designed two alt-builds for, and a big part of that was figuring out what sorts of parts are conducive to that. In this case, lots of SNOT parts were a must, 3x1 plates were preferred over even-numbered lengths due to the odd-numbered width of all three models, and I ended up using the CMF weightlifter's weights as wheels due to needing them to be bounded on both sides (for the bikes) and wanting to be able to use them as building elements themselves. I wasn't really conceptualizing this from a gameplay perspective. Presumably, the first two would be ground-based vehicles (possibly with flight capabilities as well) while the third would be purely a flying vehicle. The second vehicle could probably use tow bars as well. Beyond that, I'm not sure how their capabilities would differ specifically. Clay, for his part, could probably reflect lasers with his sword and maybe could have some tech-related skills as well (such as using techno-panels like Benny or maybe even using his Squirebot as a drone like Doc Brown or Cybermen). In future models, it might be worth my while to consider adding parts to the base which can be used for elemental effects, like the 1x1 "electric" studs in the Delorean model from the Back to the Future level pack. As I said earlier, I'm still learning! Obviously, there are some parts that could not be placed due to the limitations of LDD. The minifigure is almost entirely bare, but would include Clay's normal helmet, armor, sword, and shield in an actual product. I'm not actually sure what Nexo Power the shield would have—maybe a blue one with Clay's falcon emblem (possibly functional in the app, possibly just ornamental). If all the parts were included, the pack as a whole would be 47 parts, which is a fairly typical piece count for a Dimensions pack. Comments? Questions? Feedback is much appreciated!
  24. Hi everyone. I took some time to show you guys how to enable LDD's developer mode and all the tings it can do. Here are a just a few examples of the things you can do in dev. mode: You can render bricks in wireframe: You can use the various rendering modes to show the collision objects of the bricks and color them in some trippy colors: And the best thing of all, you can DISABLE COLLISIONS in order to place bricks in almost any manner: I made a short video on how to unlock LDD developer mode and all the other things you can do with it here: I hope you guys find this info useful and save yourself a lot of work when LDD's collisions give you a headache
  25. I'm just starting out with Lego Digital Designer and have run into a problem putting two gears together. In this LDD file ( I want to put the bevel gear on the grey beam so that it meshes with the other bevel gear, so it looks something like the image below.. But it won't let me do it, perhaps because one gear needs to be rotated. Any idea how this can be achieved?