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Found 33 results

  1. Hello everybody. I am trying to put in a 2 speed automatic transmission, to a large MOC. I already have a 4 speed manual transmission, but it is hard to reach. I want something that when it goes up hills, it can automatically give more torque with out me having to shift it. Does anybody know how to do this? PDF instructions would be helpful. Thank you, LegoBuilder919
  2. I present a little off-road experiment of mine. It's a large-scale model of the Soviet Ural 375D heavy-duty military truck, a truck I've had the pleasure of driving last year. The model's look is somewhat compromised but it achieved the primary goals, which included stress-testing the planetary wheel hubs, the new differential and my 4-speed remotely-controlled sequential transmission. I'm happy to report that none of these components failed and the truck, which weighs 3.94 kg, is able to drive over a 6 cm tall book or climb inclines slightly above 15°. It's not a perfect model, and it's truly sluggish, but oh well. Functions: remotely controlled drive and steering remotely controlled 4-speed transmission (with the lowest speed disabled so I could use a PF Servo as shifter) remotely controlled pneumatical locking of differentials in all three axles 6x6 drive suspension: live axles #1 and #3, pendular axle #2 (for improved chassis rigidity and to maintain ground clearance) switch-operated rear winch opening hood with a V8 piston engine running at constant speed and opening doors and a tiny detail that I really wanted to get done: a see-through grille
  3. I am building a RC version of the Lego Land Rover Defender (42119) and it will include a 3 speed sequential Transmission. It will be operated from the Powered-Up Lego app. using 3 buttons and it includes a dial that shows the selected gear. I am using a Technic Hub (88012) and a Technic Medium Angular Motor (45603). The Remote Control has 3 buttons; up-shift, down-shift and neutral. When the application is started it calibrates the shifting axle to be at the "neutral" gear and sets the angle to 0. Pressing the up-shift button will engage the 1st gear, then if pressed again the 2nd until it reaches the 3rd gear. If you press the up-shift button more times it will not move the shifting mechanism but will make a "clanking" noise. Pressing the down-shift button will sequentially shift to the next lower gear until it gets to neutral where again will make a "clanking" noise trying to go lower. To the right of the 3 buttons there is a dial that indicates the gear is selected. [Media]
  4. Hi everyone, I have been building for a while now and I haven't noticed any instructions for a simple 4 output gearbox using no transmission parts. Now everyone I have come up with a solution, here we present to you a simple 4 output transmission system that has 1 motor input. If anyone is interested please let me know so that I can guess if it is worth making instructions. Feel free to ask questions and follow the discussion for updates. Follow us for more gearbox and other simple designs.
  5. Hello everyone! This is my new moc! The airboat is at rest, when the propeller is rotating at low frequency, and begins moving, once the propeller has worked faster. 1 L-motor 2 M-motors Watch the video!
  6. Here's my previous transmission design equipped with a torque-sensing shifter. The result is that the transmission starts at 4th speed and shifts down lower the more resistance the output meets. It's not perfect, the shifting is jerky because of a "gap" when both transmission rings are disengaged, but it works. I'm hoping somebody can improve on it and make it shift more smoothly. And the original transmission with instructions:
  7. Hi folks! I built a MOC that can turn its wheels 90 degrees and drive sideways. It also has a few more features. What do you think about the concept? I would be grateful for constructive criticism or suggestions for what this could be used as a basis. Thanks!
  8. To be honest this video was supposed to be my video releasing a new version of the RC Car with Sbrick along with some instructions. However, after a request for a build battle by LEGO Technic Mastermind, I have decided to postpone that video, but that will happen sometime in the future. In the meantime, I have made a rear-wheel drive sports car with an opening hood, small-cylinder V8 engine, functional headlights and taillights with PF LEDs, full independent suspension on all four wheels, a steered front axle with toe in (steered by a PF servo), and a four speed manual gearbox driven by 4 PF L-motors. To control all the powered functions, I have used two Sbricks, each connected to their own AAA battery box. I have not much else to say, just enjoy the video and photos below.
  9. I thought this would be worth sharing. For the suspension of an RC model I'm working on (yes, I will keep my promise @DugaldIC), I want to have a telescopic transmission shaft that can take quite some vertical travel while spanning a constant distance of 6L, the length of a non-telescopic arrangement with two u-joint. I know about Sheepo's design, but that one can only take little vertical travel before the slider axles collide with the u-joints. So I've been playing with this a little and found an arrangement that works very well. It can take quite some torque actually, even though I'm not planning to use it for transferring motorized drive. This will only connect the wheels to a fake engine.
  10. Yes, this is a giant F1 car. It's around 1.2 metres long and large enough to sit in. The main features: Pedal-driven rear wheels 8-speed sequential transmission shifted via paddles on steering wheel Rear disk brakes activated by button on steering wheel Electronically-controlled limited-slip differential Rack and pinion steering connected to steering wheel Display showing pedal RPM, gear and wheel speed The car uses MINDSTORMS EV3 to operate the functions. It uses one standard EV3 set's worth of electronics plus an additional Large motor. The gearbox is a 4-speed design expanded with a close-ratio 2-speed (ratios 1:1 and 1:1.2) giving 8 speeds in total. A single motor controls it - each gear requires 180 degrees of rotation. Rotating by 90 degrees puts the gearbox in neutral. A Geneva mechanism is used to control the 4-speed - when the 2-speed goes from the high gear to the low gear, the 4-speed is advanced one gear. This is how it shifts from gear 2 to gear 3. In order to reduce the amount of torque handled by the gearbox, it is geared up very highly. This increases friction and reduces efficiency, but there is no shortage of power (I calculated a human’s power output at over 100 EV3 Large motors!). The limiting factor here is how much torque the parts can handle. The disk brakes use a 49mm tyre as the disk and red rubber pads from the EV3 Expansion set. There are two sets of callipers on each wheel (4 pads per wheel in total) giving huge stopping power. A rather complex linkage allows a single input to control both sets of callipers at the same time. An EV3 Large motor pulls on the beam which activates the brakes via a bell-crank linkage. There are two brake motors so the EV3 can operate them independently - this is important for the next step. The differential is very ruggedly-built to prevent gear slippage or parts breaking. An extra small differential measures the speed difference between the two outputs - this goes to a Medium motor used as a rotation sensor. This allows the percentage differential slip to be calculated - if it exceeds a certain limit, the faster wheel is braked slightly (via the disk brakes) to give more torque to the slower one. The clutch ring is manually operated by a switch under the steering wheel- when engaged, it locks the output to zero, making the differential operate as a solid axle. This is a very similar system to the one used on the million-dollar McLaren P1 hypercar. The wheels are made from tank tread links bent backwards into a tight loop. Not sure if this is considered a "legal" solution, but it works very well. The front wheels have 42 links and the rears have 48. The rear wheels have very tight spokes in order to allow them to take the massive weight of the driver. The wheels started gaining camber (tilting) and falling off under load, so I added extra support on the other side of the wheel. The beams are set up to be under tension to push the wheel towards the axle and prevent it from falling off. The rear section uses many layers of beams and frames to make it strong enough to withstand the weight of the driver. Extra diagonal beams (the white ones) are added - they are positioned in a perfect 3:4:5 Pythagorean triple to avoid having them under compression or tension. I used a Warren truss for the central structure - that bit is virtually indestructible. The front section doesn’t look very strong, but the extra vertical beams allow it to withstand plenty of load. The chassis is very sturdy, but with a driver on board, it tends to bend quite a bit and suffers from some serious body roll issues. The steering uses a rack-and-pinion system with just over half a turn from lock-to-lock. This is similar to the steering ratio used on F1 cars. Two large custom-built universal joints are used for the steering shaft. The shaft is reinforced to prevent torsion - even a little twisting would result in inaccurate, floppy steering. The steering wheel is made to look like an F1 wheel. The two rear paddles are for the gears - right for shifting up, left for down. The front left paddle activates neutral gear when held - as soon as it is released, the transmission returns to the last gear selected. The front right paddle activates both brakes simultaneously. Each paddle presses a button on the EV3 infrared remote which is in the middle of the steering wheel. Its signal shines through the turntable and is captured by the IR receiver on the other side. This allows signals from the steering wheel to reach the EV3 brick wirelessly. The paddles have a very short throw and a crisp feel - they’re one of my favourite parts of the car. The car has a full display with features like an RPM bar and wheel speed shown (since the wheels have very little grip and are liable to doing burnouts, actual speed will be quite different). The gear number is also shown. The RPM is measured by a touch sensor and a cam connected to the pedals. The cam bumps the touch sensor every 1/7th turn of the pedals. I initially tried to use a Colour sensor to detect the black chain links against the greys but the difference in reflected light was insufficient for it to be reliable. Strength-wise, the chassis can easily deal with 20kg on the seat. Perhaps it would be ideal for a 6-year-old gearhead. Unfortunately, I'm a lot more than 20kg, so I kind of broke it. Here's the aftermath: Here's a video of me explaining and demonstrating the features of the car. You can also skip to 10:56 to see me try out the car... [All music is composed by me. My F1 V10 impression is not edited in any way!] In the end, I think it was a successful experiment. I intended this MOC to be a testbed for various ideas I had, and you might possibly see a scaled-down version of some of the mechanisms (such as the differential) in a normal-sized car of mine in the future. After all, that's why real-life car manufacturers build concepts and sell low-volume cars at a loss. If it wasn't for that, we wouldn't have the Bugatti Veyron, Pagani Zonda R, Lexus LFA and other amazing machines.
  11. Hey everyone! Today I'm very excited to finally share with you my new MOC, after 1 month of work on it. I really wanted to see what would happen if I made a car without a WIP topic, like how @Charbel released his superb Volcano RS Supercar. So it all started back when I got inspiration from @Madoca 1977's Corvette and Supercar, and @Fosapifi's Porsche Spyder. I wanted to make a car around that scale. My other main goal was a robust chassis. So it began with a small independent front suspension, then a chassis with that, a rear live axle, mini engine, and 2-speed gearbox. Soon a body was created and I thought I was almost done. But then there was trouble. I realized the serious problem, the engine's crankshaft, when a section was sticking out the lowest, pushed on the axle that drove the gears that drove the wheels. This suspension was used. When it hit that axle it bounced, creating a rough ride all the time. So I replaced that with a solid diff, and it was smooth sailing, err, building, from there. So here we are. I am also happy to share this because I managed to get some pictures I am very proud of, with a very-close-to-white background! The final model features front suspension, a working mini V8 engine based off this, rear differential, 2-speed gearbox, HoG steering, adjustable spoiler, and a robust chassis. Even though the model looks small and has a light, aggressive bodywork, its dense chassis helps to give it a total of 855 pieces (contrary to the video.) Instructions: Rebricmable: Tons More pictures: Enjoy! With the wheel arches removed, it looks like a Toyota AE86 drift car, probably due to the square shape. Outdoor pics: Chassis: Please tell me what you think of it! Have a great day!
  12. Here's my latest WIP, the Ram 1500. This is mostly based on my desire to do a vehicle with 8 speeds. Ram 1500 has an 8-speed transmission in reality. The model has several functions in place already: -Steering -Drive (4x4) -Suspension (Front has positive caster angle, rear live axle) -8 speed transmission with 90-degree shift (Not done yet) Here's a picture: Drive is with 1 xl motor right now, but it will be changed to 2 as 1 does not have enough torque for gears 6, 7, and 8. Steering is with 1 m motor. The front suspension has a positive Caster angle. It was built by angling the suspension beams and securing them to the chassis. The rear axle is incredibly weak right now. PLEASE LEAVE A SUGGESTION FOR OW I CAN IMPROVE IT. Here's the gearbox up close. The entire section of the chassis is extremely dense, but the is no gear slipping when driving. Please leave a suggestion, and I will update the thread soon! Thanks for your attention. BrickbyBrickTechnic
  13. I said before in my previous post that I had some problems with my GX EV3 4x4 chassis that I needed to fix. Once again, it's more gear grinding/clicking, but this time it's only in the front and rear differential gears. The grinding occurs whenever the chassis tries to drive into a wall or when it tries to drive in different conditions (because as an SUV it should drive smoothly in dirt or uneven terrain). What also annoys me is that when I push the car, instead of letting the motors move, the differentials make clicking noises that, like I said before, sound like a machine gun. I really need help so I can stop the differentials from clicking so when the car tries to drive into the walls, the motors won't still move while the differentials click, and so the car can be a lot more versatile on uneven terrain (such as what I used for testing, blankets) without the differentials causing a problem when the car moves. Here's some pictures of the bottom of the chassis.
  14. I'm back again with another gear grinding issue but this one is a bit less critical. The grinding only occurs when my 4x4 SUV chassis (with Sariel's 4-Speed Sequential Transmission) is in a certain gear. Here's some photos of the chassis. The transmission is shifted to the speed where the nonstop grinding occurs. When in this gear (I believe it may be 3rd) The car is supposed to move, but it does very slowly while clicking noises fire like a machine gun. This is the only time when the gears grind other than, say, if the chassis hits a wall. When the clicking begins, I hear the driving rings shake (which awfully reminds me of the somewhat gear clicking in the Mercedes-Benz Arocs set). I would love a response a soon as possible to address the clicking problem so I can finish the chassis once and for all.
  15. This is my second post on the EuroBricks community and another question asking for as much help as I can get to master the art of the technic gearbox. Like I said in my previous post, for my Lexus GX EV3 4x4 SUV, I tried my best to use Sariel's 4-speed sequential and it ultimately failed on me. Quoting one of my replies... I would be relieved if I could finally finish this creation after five months of difficulty. Here are some pictures of the entire chassis. I said before that the issues with this was that the gears clicked a ridiculous amount at the highest gears which stopped the car from moving. (Hence the reason why the transmission I want needs to have a clutch gear to absorb the large amount of torque)
  16. I'm building a SUV drivetrain for my Lexus GX EV3 project that has independent suspension, four-wheel-drive, and a four-speed gearbox with a medium EV3 motor that shifts the gears. Unfortunately, after testing the drivetrain, I found that when in 3rd or 4th gear, the gears make a clicking noise when moving forward and then straight to backward. However, this clicking somewhat occurs less when going from reverse to forward. This clicking really "grinds my gears" and I don't know what to do to stop the gears from clicking. My gearbox is a custom version of Sariel's four-speed sequential that is fit for the vehicle I am building. The input in the transmission is switched to provide more speed. Two large EV3 motors drive the input. I've noticed that when the vehicle stops, it goes the opposite direction for a little bit. Also, like I already said, this clicking only happens in 3rd or 4th gear, but mostly the 4th gear since it brings the most speed. I tried to solve this clicking with different gears and whatnot, but no matter what they still clicked when the vehicle moved forward to backward. The motors and the gearing also bring a lot of torque as much as it brings speed, and this might be one of the problems. Is there any way I can solve this issue so the gear clicking will stop in this situation (moving foward and then straight to backward) for now on? Here's a photo of the bottom of the drivetrain. Thank you in advance for any assistance that you may be able to provide!
  17. 2015 Predator Supercar Full Article HERE Specs & Features - L x W x H (studs): 59 x 31 x 13 - # of parts: undisclosed at the moment (Anyone wants to take a guess?) - The heart of the car consists of a V8 engine; - A vertical positioned gearbox is located right behind the engine and transfers its power directly to the rear wheels; - the 6 different speeds (5+R) can be manually selected with the gearstick between the seats and has a one to one mechanical connection to the gearbox with some linkages; - All wheels are suspended independently with double wishbones; - The front wheels are steered through either steering wheel or HOG and include ackermann geometry; - Front axle also has positive caster angle and kingpin inclination. Bump steer is minimized due to the low location of the steering rod; - Gullwing doors which can be controlled from directly above the airintakes on the side and include a wormwheel configuration; - Bonnet and engine cover can be opened as well, but this is done manually and they have a built-in limitation of their respective opening angle. They stay open due to friction. Looks like Nate has some new teasers up for his new supercar design... No doubt this will be awesome..! "A New Revalation" "After many months of development a new beast is soon to be unleashed! Remember the chassis for a new supercar that was presented here a few months ago? Well, the long wait is almost over and a new Predator is on its way. Many iterarations later and updated with the latest arrival of new parts it's bigger, meaner and more accurate than ever before! A few titbits to wet your appetite: the model is roughly the same size as the recently launched 42039 24-hour racer. But the similarities do not end there. Both use for example the exact same amount of panels, both are powered by a mid engine V8, and then there are a few other features that share some similarity. But that's where the comparison ends, and although on paper they seem similar, in reality they are completely different! All will be revealed soon..."
  18. I'm building a 6-speed sequential gearbox for use in a future MOC and I've come across an issue. Basically, I need to control three driving rings with a single input, but I can't figure out how to do it. I'm familiar with the standard method of controlling two rings by using eccentric mechanisms 90 degrees out of phase, but this doesn't work with 3. I need six positions that can be selected with a single axle. I don't need a paddle-shifter - I can do that bit myself. The positions must be in order like this: [The three changeover catches are in a line, F means flipped forwards, R means flipped backwards, O means in the middle/neutral] FOO ROO OFO ORO OOF OOR This is all to do with the way the gears are arranged (I needed the ratios to be close; difference between each gear is around 1.3x). I can't change this. The crucial thing is that the mechanism must be compact. I can't give exact dimensions, but I'm quite pushed for space in this MOC. Thanks in advance for any help!
  19. Video Found Here: Specifications: Number of Gears: 4 Gear Ratio Spread: 5:1 - 1:1 Shift Reliability: 99% Friction Level: Low Transmission Type: Dual-Sequential Synchronized? Yes Auto-stop? No Optimal Transmission Motor RPM: 15 - 40 Length: 10 studs Width: 11 studs Height: 5 studs (6 with optional support) Note on dimensions: dimensions are measure to the furthest protruding point of the transmission; that is to say, the transmission does not actually occupy all of the space designated above. Also, I know that the measurement for width is greater than that of length, (which is against their very definitions) but length was measured as being parallel to the drive axles. This is the transmission I used in my RHM Wutzwerg (http://www.eurobrick...opic=125571&hl=) supercar. It is a dual-sequential transmission, meaning that it is actually a pair of 2-speed transmissions (one with ratios of 3:1 and 1:1, the other with ratios of 1.67:1 and 1:1) which are shifted in sequence to produce 4 distinct, sequential speeds. It is very smooth and very reliable, the only potential concern being that it can slip under <b>extreme</b> stress situations; this can be remedied by added a gear reduction later in the drivetrain. It does also lack an auto-stop function, however I will be posting an appropriate stepper-motor shortly. Instructions are here: Before building, please read the following important notes: -Instructions are in *.lxf (LDD - Lego Digital Designer) format. Sorry, I am horrible with other Lego CAD programs. -Green marks the drive input, red marks the drive output, and purple/pink marks the transmission shifting input. -I do ask that if you use this in a model, you give me credit as the designer of the transmission. -Elastics have to be fastened like this: …so that the yellow part (orange in the instructions) is pulled on axis towards the shifting axle. -The yellow ribbed axle connectors in the instructions need to be replaced with the part below: http://www.moc-pages...595/1459193300m -Any questions, comments, or otherwise can be addressed to me in the comments and I will make an attempt to respond as quickly as possible. This thing won't accept pictures at the moment, so here's a full catalog of them: http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/426942
  20. Link to MOCPages: http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/426649 VIDEO FOUND HERE: Hello, this is my first post on Eurobricks. Anyway, here I present my custom supercar RHM (Rage Hobbit Motors) Wutzwerg. Note: this model is on Lego Ideas, the link for which is here: I'm not really expecting the model to get either the necessary votes or to get turned into a set, but hey, I like to be surprised. Propulsion: 1 x L motor Steering: Front wheel with 1 x Servo motor and working steering wheel Drive Type: RWD Transmission: 4-speed sequential synchronized V2 Weight: 1.3 kg (2.87 lbs) Length: 41.5 cm (16.3 in, 52 studs) Width: 18 cm (7 in, 22.5 studs) Height: 10 cm (3.9 in, 12.5 studs) Power source: 7.4v 8878 Li-Po rechargeable battery box Estimated part count: 1800 pieces Suspension: All-wheel dual-wishbone independent Opening hood, doors, and engine V10 piston engine connected to drivetrain through transmission Build time: ~60 days Short Description This is my first vehicle to be built without a real subject vehicle in mind. It has less of a focus on performance than my other vehicles, with only a single L motor for propulsion. It also has front-wheel steering with a working steering wheel, a new version of my 4-speed sequential synchronized transmission (link here: http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/422999), and a motorized rear wing. Introduction For this car I was trying something a little bit different. I had just designed a new version of my 4-speed sequential synchronized transmission (link here: http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/422999) and I wanted to use it in a car, but I also wanted to build something a little less performance-oriented than usual and thus fit in more functions. This time, there is no original vehicle; make what comparisons you will, this car is entirely a product of my imagination. I think. Drive Train Part of my plan for this vehicle was to eliminate one of my customary 2 drive motors, leaving only a single L motor for propulsion. This freed up space for another M motor, as well as allowing room for the V10 piston engine. The V10 piston engine located behind the front seats, and was connected to the drive system through the transmission; as such, it varied with whatever gear the transmission was engaged into. Because of space restrictions, I had to replace the usual cylinder brackets with a custom rig, after spending a solid hour determining the exact geometry of the original brackets. The transmission used in this vehicle works off of the same principle as my previous 4-speed sequential synchronized transmission; this transmission is also a dual-sequential transmission. What this means is that the transmission actually contains TWO separate transmissions which are shifted in such a way as to produce 4 distinct speeds. What differentiated this transmission from the previous versions is that the switches were not hinged: instead, they moved back and forth in a straight line. This can be seen and understood better from the video above, and you can expect instructions sometime sort of soon-ish. The transmission itself was shifted by an M motor geared 10:1. Because of the lessened power from using a lone L motor, the motor had a gear reduction of 1.25:1 before being fed into the transmission, and then another reduction of 2:1 before the differential at the rear wheels. The car wasn’t fast, but it did pretty well for a single motor. Steering and Other Motorized Functions Steering was simple as usual - with a Servo motor and rack-and-pinion system - but this time I added a working steering wheel. That’s just about all there is to say for the steering system. The final M motor was for the rear wing. This was no fancy job, just a linear clutch and lever mechanism to raise the rear wing, but again space restrictions made the implementation of this system difficult. The rear aesthetics were somewhat compromised to make room for the rear wing & mechanism. Aesthetics With this being the first time I’ve ever come up with my own large-scale car, I didn’t really know where to start, and all the online comments saying “Making your own car is SO hard!” were not particularly encouraging. The front was actually the first area to be built (because of the awkward and inconvenient position of the battery box) and the rest of the car was built using the front as a reference point. Obviously, I can’t give my own unbiased opinion on the car’s aesthetics - many hours spent designing it have probably compromised my opinion as well - but I think the aesthetics turned out pretty well. Please, give me your honest opinions in the comments section! Reflections Not bad, I think, for a first attempt at making my own vehicle. Space was a little bit cramped because of the scale I chose to build it in, but everything mostly fit together in the end. It functioned really quite well: the transmission, rear wing, steering, and propulsion systems all worked without malfunctioning even once in the final vehicle, despite considerable use. That may be a first for me. Despite having fun crafting my own vehicle, I can’t see this as being something I’ll repeat frequently. That’s not to say I’ll never do it again, but I do enjoy recreating existing cars, and of course brand familiarity with my viewers gives people something to compare to. Enjoy the pictures!
  21. The inspiration for this MOC is my (now-sold) ’92 Toyota 4Runner, video here: This is my first-ever studless build, as I used to build a lot with Technic about 16 years ago, but have just recently revisited the hobby. The model is assembled from three sets: 8110, 9398 and 42000. I don’t have enough shifting ring parts to make everything work as I’d like it to, so this model will get revisited once I pick up a few more sets and can motorize shifting, add a central transmission diff (for 2wd, 4wd and 4lo), and figure out how to get better gearing for the main motors. The model is powered by two PF-L motors hard-coupled to a single output shaft. Power goes into a Sariel-inspired 4-spd transmission, before being output both front and back (due to lacking the parts for a central diff) for a permanent 4wd system. There’s a diff at the front, and a (manually) locking diff at the back. Front suspension is an IFS setup and comes mostly from 42000, and steering is performed by a PF-M coupled to a clutch gear to prevent tooth grinding at full lock. Rear suspension is again Sariel-inspired for a live-axle setup. Tires are 1.9 Axial Maxxis Trepador on Unimog rims. (Current axle articulation is fairly accurate based on what I experienced with my 4Runner.) The chassis is about 25 studs wide with about a 43 stud wheelbase. Overall model length should be about 60 studs which will be more-or-less in proportion to that of the actual vehicle. Current chassis weight is 1759g. The suspension settles a bit, so I’m a little worried that once I add the body it will be too compressed, but that’s something to tackle for later! More pictures at: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=539844
  22. Some projects just take a long time to complete. The Audi allroad is finally complete, and since it took so long to come together, I took it apart yesterday. I guess I was a little more motivated by the disassembly, than by the assembly. More information is at A video can be found , but keep your expectations low.Features: All wheel drive Steering by PF Servo Three speed transmission Drive by three PF L motors All wheel independent suspension Roof rack for all your toys Enjoy, and happy building.
  23. So it took me a while but the Cadillac ATS is finally done. Much more at Here are some pictures: Features: opening hood opening trunk four opening doors opening glove box working rear center armrest 6 Speed manual transmission with single pivot point limited slip differential rear independent suspension with increasing negative camber front independent suspension with increasing negative camber, kingpin inclination, and ackerman geometry a full size spare tire three interchangeable engine options to meet your needs or budget Video is . Enjoy.
  24. anyone attempted? Are there any parts aside direct control that can actually engage the clutched design gearboxes? so to actually have a stick, with either flexes or axles that would operate a transmission where engine block is.
  25. I'm looking for Lego Technic sets, and I want to find all the ones with Manual transmission. Does anybody know any good ones?