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Found 1425 results

  1. Hello everyone, I have purchased a lego power functions led light on Bricklink, to light up my 42043 MB Arocs. On real life trucks you often see that the rear lights are ‘double’. I modified the rear bumper of the Arocs to create this ‘double’ lights. But, the Lego LED light has only one light bulb for every side, so it will not shine trough two holes of a technic liftarm. Anyone any ideas how to achieve this?
  2. Hello everyone! In these hard times I began my old dream to come true - I have started developing a car. This is definitely not a sport/super/hyper car. My aim is to build a luxury sedan. Brand will me mentioned later, I assume after the chassis with drive train will be done (if it would). As for now I'm going to build fully manual version with advanced realistic suspension with pneumatic brakes,, 4WD (actually original has only RWD, but full is more interesting and complex), interesting V/W 8-12 fake engine and rotating gearbox shifters on the steering wheel (initial and genuine idea by @Charbel), detailed interior. And from the very beginning I've faced with difficulties: Those ball-joints are very hard to rotate, the route from the steering rack to the wheel should be the strongest and the simplest in one time. Still no idea for the rear brakes implementation. No room for the fake engine prototype. I want to use regular cylinder parts, but with the crankshaft from the 42078 set (as example). Too hard to place front drivetrain, steering axle, gearbox and gearbox shifters. At my point I think I need 100*100 studs place to handle all this. I'm afraid I'll have to refuse from the front driving feature to handle all other modules. But who knows. And the last fear is the political situation in my country, I don't want to discuss it here, but the mood is very sad and I can be repressed anyway, though. https://bricksafe.com/pages/Aleh/wip-sedan
  3. Warning: Long post and many pics, mobile user might be careful about the data usage. And bad English. Damn when will this end. This post is more like a record post, I will try to list all the modifications I did on the model. Chapter One: Begining 2018 Aug - 2018 Oct All things start from 2018 mid-August, Lego has officially release the Bugatti Chiron 42083. But I am too broke and poor can't afford it yet (still a student), so I have decide to just do some crazy build at the Lego Digital Designer (LDD) to pretend I have one of it. For the first, I found the 42083.LDD file at this post and the first modification I did is trying to convert it to RC with Buwizz. Here are some of the first references I found on the internet, the source has lost. Then I am just thinking would I do something crazy than this? And I pop up an idea. 8 XL power Bugatti Chiron And all the things are starting from this idea... v2.3 24/08/2018 This is the first power configuration I did, the xl motor is having a gear ratio at 1:3. Which I regret later when I finish building in real life later but that is another story. Also due to the space limit, I have to remove the original big fat W16 and replace it with Didumos's w16 engine design. v2.5 25/08/2018 This is the final configuration I have come with and found this is extremely clever(?), even at the current latest version of the mod still has not change too much of this setup. Chapter Two: The first build 2018 Sep - 2018 Oct After I finish the first (wrong) power configuration, I have another idea is to convert this project to Bugatti Vision instead of Chiron. Also, the color configuration changes to Panda set but highlighted with red. v2.8 29/08/2018 from this. V3.9 16/10/2018 To this. And then I finally have the money to afford this and build it in real life. And the first build has completed, the looks are ok but the road test has successfully failed. As I said before, the gear ratio is 1:3 (12:36), it did run smooth but the 12T gear is damage so fast and it is hard to replace. So on the later versions, It has downgraded to 1:1.6667 (12:20) so the damage is not too high. Also, the RC door is lovely and so so smooth. I am happy with it. The mechanism of the RC door is simple, using an L shape as a Principle of leverage to push out the door. And it is driven by 2x M Motors, one for each side. v3.9 16/10/2018 Chapter Three: The raise of Pneumatic 2018 Oct - 2018 Dec And after the first in real life build setup, things got more and more crazy. The first idea is to make a wide-body kit to let it more steady and heavy. v4.7 09/12/2018 v4.7 inside 09/12/2018 As you can see things go super crazy right here, some of them are working and some of them did not. First, the yellow 5L beam represent of Pneumatic Cylinder V2 1 x 5, the LDD did not have this parts, so... The title of this modification is Pneumatic, include: - Pneumatic Suspension (not work so well at this stage) - Pneumatic center differential lock (failed, rejected) - Pneumatic Disc Brakes (not work at all, rejected) - Pneumatic Door / Pneumatic Dynamic Suspension control (works good after 5 modification later) - Pneumatic Rear Wing control (works well, although I have changed the wing completely at the latest version) "Pneumatic Driven Clutch Brakes & Pneumatic Rear Spoiler Control & Door / Pneumatic Dynamic Suspension control" switch This sound crazy but it is basically having a Servo motor to switch pneumatic valve to active 2 set of action: Set A: - Suspension control (soft/hard) - lock center differential - Un-deploy rear wing - Deactivate Brakes v4.7 09/12/2018 Set B: - Door control (left and right) - unlock center differential - Deploy rear wing - Activate Brakes v4.7 09/12/2018 At then, of course, I have to build it to see how fail it would. Also, you might see there are some electrical wire, those are the custom light, but I don't like it too much at the end. (removed later) And after finished the build, only the rear wing and the SetA/B switch works. - Pneumatic Suspension (too weak and need to redesign) - Pneumatic center differential lock (the differential did not engage well) - Pneumatic Disc Brakes (it can active but can't deactivate, wtf) - Pneumatic Door / Pneumatic Dynamic Suspension control (works good) - Pneumatic Rear Wing control (works well) SetA/B switch works smooth And the first major that has to be solved has to be the Suspension design, I have underrated the weight of the car (~3.4kg), it has to be SOME Suspension. Chapter Four: Redesign the Suspensions 2019 Jan - 2019 Mar Then I saw a post about redesign the whole 42083: [Review|Rant|Mod|MOC|WIP] 42083 revisited by Erik Leppen His suspension redesign has given me an idea... Photo by Erik Leppen And then pop! A new set of suspension design has finished. (Same, yellow 5L beam represent of Pneumatic Cylinder V2 1 x 5) v5 Front 19/03/2019 v5 rear 19/03/2019 Real-life build. New vs old Also, I have remove the rear&front differential to replace with 3:1 (36:12) gear for more tough. (Now planing to replace with new differential 65414&65413) But it turns out it still too weak and soft, so I decided to add 2 hard spring suspension each side. v6.2 30/06/2019 The topside is hard spring suspension and the lower is Pneumatic Cylinder. And it turns out too hard this time... Solution: decrease one spring suspension on each side. Problem solved. Chapter Five: Divo and Second real-life build & first photo shooting 2019 Mar And the next title update is to convert it to the color of Bugatti Divo. v6 28/06/2019 Real-life build. At this stage(v6) I thought I finish this model, it is a good time to stop. And I did feel it is a bit of ugly now but I like it at that moment. So I decided to let it have a Pro photo shooting. Nikon D810 with Sigma ART 40mm With 2 AD200 Flashlight And here are some the pics: Full album here: imgur It is funny that the figure is 1/10 scale and the car is 1/8, it feels so small. And also you see there are lots of stickers, which I don't like it a month later and super regret why I do this. Chapter Six: The come back of 5292 2019 June - 2019 July As all we know, the Lego 5292 Buggy RC motor has discontinued from TLG. And it is selling like 100USD for one on the internet. At the first brainstorm planning, I did have a plan to have 8x 5292 Buggy power plan, but due to the cost, it has been rejected. But one day, I saw this on China market. What the. China has already china the 5292?!!! And it only sold as 68RMB! (~9.8USD) And then this forbidden update has been relaunched. v6 28/06/2019 Due to the size of the 5292 is a bit bigger than 2XL motors, most of the body frame has to be redesign. v9 13/01/2020 Real-life build. And it turns out pretty damn nice! Even in Buwizz slow power mode, it runs pretty smooth too. Due to space limitations and wait for new differential 65414&65413 then I will bring it to a bigger to have a run test. Chapter Seven: The real Divo 2019 June - 2019 Nov One day, I am scrolling Facebook and saw this post from Marc Vink. Post link: link His creation is amazing and his rear light did gave me an idea... Why don't I convert my Bugatti to a truly Divo? Not a Divo-vision thing. Photo by Marc Vink And I have try to create my own one. (Reference to Marc Vink's design) v6.1 29/06/2019 v7.7 25/10/2019 And I think that is it, that is the one. Order parts, build it. Finished and it did look way better than I expected!
  4. Hi, I have always wondered if this part is compatible with lego technic pin holes. I have a MOC situation where I need to have an axle thru-hole which also can be meshed with the pinholes of two beams which are 1L apart. I could use the new technic connector pinhole with 1L axle on opposite sides, placed sideways with a 3L pin connecting the beams but the connectors axles are too short, hence the need for an axle thru-hole. Can the sides of part 24122 be placed inside of pinholes? even if it means having to twist it in due to it being a tight fit. axle joiners or #2 connectors are too long also. Regards, snipe.
  5. It is evident, at least for me, that there has been a significant decrease in the number of MOCs that are made and I would like to know your opinion about that... Almost everything is already built?, new pieces are needed?, do it happens with all the Lego themes?, or maybe is just me?.
  6. badgerboy

    [MOC] Mr Moon

    Here is Mr Moon: Wind the handle, Mr Moon will roll his eyes as another spaceship orbits him looking for a place to land… "Hooray, we’ve planted our flag!" Oh, looks like Mr Moon blew the flag down again! I'll be upfront, I did this for the ongoing LEGO IDEAS 'Out of this World Space Builds' contest. But, It wasn't always mechanised though, I agonised about my initial idea which was just going to be 'The man in the moon'. I thought I could do a simple Brick Sketches in homage to Chris McVeigh. I just felt that it lacked pizzazz! So I noodled about adding Classic Spacemen, and microfigures and flags, but it just felt like a perfunctory attempt. After talking with an artist mate of mine [a muggle or Noffler (Not A Fan oF LEGO) as I like to call them] I decided to try to add some form of movement. Here is a little video of the mechanism I eventually got to work in action: If the video doesn't play properly, it can be found here too (turn off sound though - my kids are doing homeschooling in the background!). I'm kicking myself a little because there was a prototype mechanism using the yellow racks I had and some more dbg and brown technic pieces that I appear not to have documented photographically :-( Someone on IDEAS has suggested adding the option of a cow to replace the spaceship with if you wanted and I love that idea. I'm close to the 250 part limit. Some trimming is possible in the part count of the mechanism I think owing to a lack of parts in my collection. I actually spent about £15 on a couple of Bricklink orders that included the black curved gear racks and a couple of bigger black plates. I'm going to have a play to see if I can figure something out... guess I'll be buying a cow sometime this week! I feel like I need a disclaimer, I realise I don't post much on Eurobricks, I'm more of a lurker here in the last few years (this was after I realised I was saying the same things in a few places!). I do feel bad for asking for support, but I really would appreciate the extra exposure sharing this here hopefully gives my submission. Please accept my apologies if you feel I'm being mercenary by posting this. For anyone who is willing to make a comment or lend support to my submission, my entry can be found here. I appreciate any thoughts or criticism and thank you for taking the time to read my post.
  7. Hello all, With the possible release of lego technic mercedes Zetros, I decided to rebuild my Technic unimog U400 into an unimog U4023. I could do this thanks to the recently aquired Claas Tractor Tyres and the abundant parts of the Liebherr - I find the Liebherr a fantastic set for parts - I modified the cab and I will integrate 2 control+ L motors and 1 XL control+ motor for drive. First I started with the cab, the chassis I'll do next The cab is build on the same base of the U400 cab The cab is not 100% true to the original, lack of various grilles, the front wheel arches are not integrated in the cabin, the air intake etc, but I find it a great start if i can say so myself. The cab features lockable doors Here is a foto of the cab on the original U400 unimog chassis with Claas Tyres. So the next project is to rebuild the chassis with the control+ motors and I also plan to rebuild the front bumper to match the U4023 bumper. Hope you liked it so far
  8. Lego Technic Rolls-Royce Phantom by Isaac Yaw Instructions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-67767/Isaacyaw/rolls-royce-phantom-110-by-isaac-yaw/#details Full video: functions: -Fully independent suspension system-Adjustable height suspension-V12 engine with gearbox-6-speed manual transmission-working steering wheel and 'hand of God' steering system-full black and yellow theme interior-fully openable doors, hood, and trunk replicated from the original model-hidden 'umbrella' in the door dimensions: length- 57.5 cmwidth- 20.5 cmheight- 15.5 cm
  9. Hi! It's time to upgrade one more shelf model (the previous one was the Batmobile https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/180543-mod-motorized-batmobile-76139/&tab=comments#comment-3302360). Ferrari 42125 has a lot of free space, so I've inserted four buggy-motors and a few BuWizz receivers. The chassis is very simple, I've removed suspension, V8, driver seat and steering wheel :) And the bodywork is the same as in the original LEGO set. Here is the result: Thanks for watching :)
  10. Hello all, Just 2 small questions: 1) can you connect to the same shaft a control+ L-motor and a XL-motor, or do you need reduction gearing? 2) if yes is it usefull to do so, to get extra power on a driveshaft? Thanks
  11. With a new Pneumatic truck possibly on the horizon, I decided to give the Redux treatment to one of my favourite models.This is due to its complexity and that it was the first large model that i bought for myself that was not a Christmas or Birthday present. And judging from a recent post on the forums a lot of you like it as well. I have still to model the tubing from my IRL model but I may have to switch to LDCad as stud.io is still not the best at this. As with most of the models of the old studded times, to convert to studless you have to switch the width from even to odd so the truck is now one stud wider. I have tried to keep as many details from the original and made changes where the new beams demand it or where newer parts allow a better build. With the redux models I make I always try to use the most current parts available so people who don't have the original have a chance to build it as well. Please let me know what you think especially the front of the truck as I have employed a few odd techniques to keep it looking like the original. Plans will follow eventually when i get the tubing done.
  12. Few months have gone since I built my last alternative model from set 42106 and I got desire to build another one. The first model was Pullback Racer that I built for TC18 contest - more about it is here. Then I built Pullback Plane - more about it is here. And finally now I've built Pullback Helicopter. I planned to build it even before plane but I rejected it because I didn't see the way how to connect both rotor blades with pullback motor and landing gear. Set 42106 contains only 5 bevel gears and I usually use 6 for helicopter (three pairs). Later I find solution for problem with missing gear - I saved one bevel gear by connecting axle for tail rotor blade to another pair of bevel gears that transmit motion from horizontal axle to vertical. The only con of this solution is low possition of axle for tail rotor - see picture of mechanism. The last issue, I had to solve, was possition of center of gravity - it was too close to tail so helicopter made wheelies. I prevent them by adding structure under tail rotor blade. Do you think it was all for now? No, it wasn't. I've got one more idea, much crazier idea - I wanna build Pullback Steam Engine! I focused more to functionality than its look so proportions are not correct but it really works. Pullback motor is connected to rear axle and it drives also middle axle thanks to piston-rods. Front axle with small wheels works just like stabilizer (I had to move driven axles too far to rear behind center of gravity and whole vehicle would fall on its front without small wheels). Finally I added optional flame on chimney (smoke would be better but I didn't find any in donor set). I plan to make video of steam engine in action but it will not be anytime soon. Any comments and criticism are welcomed.
  13. Hi again, Sorry if I am repeating a topic but I am new in here. Also, I think this topic can stay as long as LEGO Technic exists Including the latest (2019) LEGO Technic sets/models, which do you think is the “hardest to assemble”, complex/though, etc. You understood me. For example, in my opinion, still the 1275 part - 42070 - 6*6 40th year edition 2017 Towing Truck is one of the “kings”. Waiting for your kind and precious thoughts and opinions. All the best, Idris
  14. Welcome to my garage LEGO!!! Hello! My name is Michael. I'm a Builder from Russia, I love muscle cars! Dodge Challenger 1970 This time, I collected an opponent for the Barracuda, in real life, both cars were assembled on the same base, outwardly they differ only in front and rear) I did not copy, but made a completely new model from the chassis to the body and developed it to more recognizable features, the design became more complicated, and with this the number of parts increased hundreds of times! Because of the large tilt of the whole car, it has got a castor, maneuverability is very good, as well as speed, because under the "hood" is a Buggy engine) Description: - Length 46 cm, weight 1550 g, 2013 details! - Drive - 1 Buggy motor -- Steering - Servotronic - Power supply-Small BB -The steering wheel turns the wheels -Open doors, hood... - Fashion salon -Nitrous oxide! - The receiver is hidden under the torpedo - Roomy trunk ( two PF remote controls go into the light one) - Front independent suspension with positive castor -Rear axle with Panar traction is installed - A lot of system Instructions are available for purchase! 9$ - https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-66388 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/lego_muscle_garage/ Join my group in VK: https://vk.com/legomusclegarage All photos on the link: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Michael217/dodge-challenger-1970
  15. I was searching for offers on the out-door suspension and noticed that there are only two sets that include it but I only knew about the bike one. So I checked the building instructions of the 8369 set and omg what is that system? Is that even qualify(of course it does because it's Lego) as Lego? So if anyone can provide info about this strange system I would be really thankful.
  16. Hello! I finally completed my new Moc: a Volvo L120H wheel loader in 1:17,3 scale. I started this project about 1,5 years ago, then I had a pause during last spring/summer, and I restarted working on it on October 2017. It has 4 powered fuctions: - forward/backward (L motor) - steer (2 mini LAs powered by M motor) - rise/lower main arm (2 LAs powered by L motor) - bucket (1 mini LA powered by M motor) All the electric components are hidden inside the bonnet, except one M motor which is in the cab. The main goal was to obtain the correct movement of the arm and the bucket. I worked with the original drawings scaled to the model size. At the end, the linkage works quite well and the bucket stays parallel during the movement of the arm. The battery box is on the back and can be easily be easily removed to change the batteries. Stickers are home-made. I'd like to change the rims with the 6 pin holes rims, but at the moment I only have the 3 pin holes ones. FInally, a short video, but I'm going to make an outdoor video soon : Enjoy!
  17. Proud to present my latest moc. A motorized ATTE. Instructions can be found here it can walk, steer by articulation and control the main gun rotation and elevation.
  18. Hello everyone. I just want to share a MOC i've made recently, it is a c-model of the set 42095 "Remote-Controlled Stunt Racer", so it was designed using only available parts on that set. It is quite a departure from the original, no one would think it was possible to build such a racer with this set. It uses a single l-motor to power one of the rear wheels and the other l-motor is dedicated to steering, which returns to center automatically by using a rubber band. I released free instructions for the steering system i developed for this MOC, check them here. The only limitation are the "tracked wheels", since there is no rubber, they don't have traction on smooth surfaces, this vehicle can only run on rough terrain like dirt, sand and snow, so it is basically an off-road racer. I tried to add as many details as possible given the available parts. The battery pack button is easily accessible, the IR receiver is on top to get the cleanest signal possible and the cabin is used for cable management, giving it a cleaner look. Building instructions are available at rebrickable, i also have a mechanical steering version here if you prefer. It is somewhat big, but lightweight and sturdy, so the l-motors can do their job easily and it runs quite fast. A quick video showcasing it is available here. For anyone who decide to build it, the most obvious modifications you can do is to replace the "tracked wheels" by normal off-road tires; or to apply rubber studs. Everyone feel free to share your opinions.
  19. This is yet another C-Model for the LEGO Set 42095 "Remote-Controlled Stunt Racer". This time around, i challenged myself to use the available parts to build a war tank as closest as possible to the real, generic vehicle. I used the smaller sprocket wheels on purpose to make this model run slower to better resemble the real thing, as the original set doesn't have gears to adjust the velocity. It is powered by the 2 L-Motors, it can go forward and backwards, turn left and right as needed. The front is clear to easily overcome obstacles; on the rear there is a space dedicated for cable management. I tried to keep this build as compact as i could. It may not seem like it, but this was quite the challenge, it went through various revisions and parts optimization until i became happy enough with the result. It can be further improved and modded with additional parts, but i wanted to keep it as a C-Model, so i was restricted by the set's available components. Building instructions available at https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-65285/davejsp/rc-cyber-tank/
  20. keymaker

    [WIP] UAZ 3151

    Hi, I am building next MOC based on model which can be found in the game Snowrunner. I picked KHAN 39 Marshall - it is based on real world vehicle - UAZ 3151. I would like to ask for your advice with one of my biggest problem in mocing - creating a decent looking body. When you see the photos and think "It doesn't look like UAZ..." then YES - you are right and: I wish to focus on body and look (I don't want to discuss functions here, they are there and they are fine). As you can see, the main color is picked (some parts in proper colors are missing, but is not a problem when bricklink is around, the same goes for some missing obvious parts), but any smaller recolors are possible. The biggest problem I have is the front grill. It looks almost ok, but as the grill for Jeep or Land Rover, not the UAZ. I tried to recreate UAZ grill, but I failed miserably. As you can see, there is no much space for it and I am also very pleased with perfect connection of the front and the hood and I definitely will keep that. Important factor is also the fact, that body needs to be as one piece, which can be easily removed, so the body demands some rigidity. Also I plan to add front and rear lights, but at first I need to be sure that the body is right. So, could you help me a little to improve the look so it would be closer to UAZ body look? :)
  21. The car definitely needs a topic like this to look more like the real thing and make it better overall. Here are some ideas: lower the car, fill all holes in the chassis and the bodywork, flip the small panels on top of the the doors around, get rid of all visible blue pins and coloured axles, different wheels, improve the interior by filling all gaps, make the side skirts out of some technic beams like on the 42096 instead of these stupid rotor blades, different steering wheel, ......
  22. So I was thinking about using some parts in ways they weren't meant or in a unique way. But I found something much better than that. THE LEGO 9V SYSTEM. I saw connectors that are stackable on bricklink. Could you connect them in a way so the result is a parallel or series connection? Just think about the possibilities. Like 18 volt to a motor or not having to change the batteries in your set for double the time. You could also take the rechargeable battery boxes and make a fake and at the same time totally Lego buwizz clone. And it would perform even better. If I'm right the buwizz can supply 11.4v while a rechargeable battery box can supply 7.5v so 7.5v*2=15v! Please tell me that this theory is true. Edit: Ok I found it the names are plate with contacts. I found it on bricklink.
  23. The idea for the B model in the form of the Liebherr PR776 appeared in December 2019. Unfortunately, I had no experience building alternative models, so first I assembled a simpler model - skid skidder based on Bobcat T870. Having already some experience and, what is important, knowing what I can afford during the build, especially the list of parts, I made it. I tried to make all the functions and as much as possible to make the original look like this The tactic I chose when designing was to check whether the new engines and hubs would fit in the 1:18 scale model (scale to the wheels). In fact, when I put the first hub between the tracks and the drive motors, I ran out of space in the chassis. Another problem was the new, long actuators. While they are great for lifting the blade, they are too long for the ripper. In the original, these actuators are very short. To keep the dimensions of the ripper I had to build them much more into the center of the model. This added another space problems and the need to place one of the engines at the bottom of the frame. I really wanted the model to resemble the original as much as possible, so I started building with modeling the hood. Then I took care of the blade, which consumed almost all DBG system bricks. However, the basic curvature was pretty nice. Its appearance gives a lot of visual effect. The problem was the shape of the cabin. I don't know who designed the original, but there is a suspicion that he was drunk. Fortunately, it was possible to create a quite realistic cabin and interior. It is masochism to use the Control + system on models of this scale. How to build in two large hubs so that you can replace the batteries from the bottom and turn them on from the top? The first hub is located under the hood between the tracks. From the bottom we have access to the battery and we activate it with a clever switch in - the left platform. The second hub is located directly under the cabin. This can be easily folded back to gives access to the control hub and turn it on using a switch in the cabin The model does not have a realistic suspension. I resigned from it because the model weighs over 3 kilograms. I really wanted it to be stable and the tracks did not make such terrible sounds as the model A while driving. There are, however, four tilt carts that make it easier to climb over obstacles. Some technical data: Length: 46 cm, Width: 25 cm, Height: 23 cm, Weight: 3.04 kg Drive and steering – 2x XLarge C+ motor Ripper – lift (Large C+ motor) tilt (Large C+ motor) Blade – lift (XL C+ motor), tilt (Large C+ motor) I wanted the application configuration to be as simple as possible, so I also created a custom profile in the buwizz application which greatly simplifies the configuration of the model control. I also made a layout to make the control panel pleasing to the eye. Instructions can be bought at Sellfy and Rebrickable: https://sellfy.com/m1longer/p/42100-dozer/ https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-51120/M_longer/42100-liebherr-pr-776-dozer/ Custom stickers: https://www.mocsmarket.com/lego-mocs/lego-sticker-set-for-liebherr-776-dozer-42100-b-model/ Download custom BuWizz profile: https://cutt.ly/kfx57he
  24. Hello, This is my first post. I built Wing Body Truck seven months ago. Then I knew that many people wants building instructions. Now it is available. Sorry for late, because I've worked alone! Total 4126 pcs. The weight of Truck is 4600g (with 6x Eneloop batteries).
  25. This model is the next generation of my Nissan-skyline-r34. On this version I reworked many things, such as engine, interior and exterior, improved stability of the model and made it more realistic in comparison with previous version. Instruction: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-65812 Dimensions: 37.5x15x12 stud (30x14.5x9.5 cm)Functions:1. Working Steering wheel2. Openable doors3. Working V6 engine4. Openable hood5. Openable trunk6. Adjustable spoiler7. Detailed exterior and interior