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Found 1275 results

  1. Lox Lego

    Hoonitruck

    This truck has been in the works for 1 year now. Flickr: https://flickr.com/photos/139930963@N04/sets/72157711244607131 Instagram: @loxlego Bubul Chrome shop: http://bubul.unasshop.com/ https://www.jaaptechnic.com/p/stickers.html @kblock43 is a massive inspiration to so many, and his vehicles are par to none, true unicorns. I've tried to recreate all of the features and looks of the real truck, bone crushingly fast, only the raw essentials and power. The Hoonitruck has finally arrived - check out the video https://youtu.be/Rfldsi3vEWQ. Follow @loxlego by lachlan cameron, on Flickr It comes loaded with brand new suspension with the large soft shocks, and I must say it is the best suspension I've ever built. Incredibly springy and playable, mated to all 4 tires - burning rubber. The Hoonitruck has finally arrived - check out the video https://youtu.be/Rfldsi3vEWQ. Follow @loxlego by lachlan cameron, on Flickr This is the fastest a 1:8 scale car can go, when mated to the most powerful Buwizz batteries. The Hoonitruck has finally arrived - check out the video https://youtu.be/Rfldsi3vEWQ. Follow @loxlego by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Two shocks are attached to the doors that spring open and shut, 2 springs for the E-brake and transmission, openable hood. In the rear you have 2 fans that buzz twice as fast as the wheels, and a twin turbo V6 so fast the pistons could fly off at any minute. The Hoonitruck has finally arrived - check out the video https://youtu.be/Rfldsi3vEWQ. Follow @loxlego by lachlan cameron, on Flickr The steering wheel turns when the wheels turn, and there is an HOG gear behind the rear axles if you chose manual over the RC version. The Hoonitruck has finally arrived - check out the video https://youtu.be/Rfldsi3vEWQ. Follow @loxlego by lachlan cameron, on Flickr The Truck has 2 buggy motors driven by 2 buwizz, with the options for 2x XL motors or completely manual. Bubul is the legend behind all the spectacular chrome bits, Jaap Technic is the mastermind behind the full sticker wrap, and @ptg_snake custom designed the 3D printed rims for me. I put my heart and soul into this build - and Hoon responsibly 😅😅
  2. The world as we know it is destroyed. All that's left is the wastelands of a civilization that once thrived. But for us who have survived the fall of humanity, we need a vehicle that can bring us to safety - and help everyone else do so. It is the Halftracker. This is my submission for the TC17 contest. As the name suggests, it is a half-track. It will have a claw arm attached to the roof of the truck. The arm will have full 360 degrees of rotational freedom, but unfortunately this means only two functions can go through the turntable. The functions/features I am considering for this model are: Driven tracks (uses an individual L motor on each track as opposed to a differential to prevent slipping) Steering on front axle Oscillating front axle (with shock absorbers) Suspended tracks Arm rotation (full 360 degrees) Jib elevation Claw Additional motorized function (e.g. a winch). It will have 3 IR receivers, so there is room for one more function. The suspended tracks and oscillating axle will help the Halftracker tackle any fallen debris, and the claw arm will clear out any roadblocks for people to get through. Currently I have the tracks and their drivetrain and the front axle (the oscillating portion) completed. The tracks are pretty solid at this point, so building the chassis should be pretty straightforward. Photos:
  3. Folks, did you see this beautiful DUPLO track compatible and "DUPLO strength" engine @Ctan has created? I have never seen something like this before - and will sure get the DUPLO track out of the attic ... Best Thorsten
  4. ! This is a WIP thread, so please scroll down to see the latest progress ! Hi there, this the car I have been working on since I finished the NSX, a Mazda RX7 with a complete bodykit from the Rotary Tuner "RE: Amemiya". This is the first LEGO car I know of which features a rotary engine with rotors moving like the real thing. I developed the engine just so I can build this car, and I am very happy with the result. I left the front of the engine open, so you can see the rotors moving inside. This is still very much a WIP, but i think you can get a good idea of where this project is going. I hope y'all like it Gray Gear
  5. Hi All, I'm new to this forum, and new to the Lego RC train world. I have just started collecting this range with my son (who's 5) so this is mostly about me.... :) In all seriousness, he is over the moon with these trains and the sets in general and we have 3 already (60051, 60197 and 60198). I'm looking for some expert guidance as to the best and most cost effective way to be able to remotely control/motorise the switch tracks (points). Having done some research online, I see there are many ways, although i haven't found a definitive step by step guide yet. It would be good to get some valuable feedback and guidance from someone who has been through this process if possible (i.e method and functionality vs cost and practicality). Appreciate the time spent reading my post and any feedback received. James.
  6. Dear all, It's a long time ago that I ventured myself into a new moc. So here it is.... A Rope Shovel used in the open mining industry, i'm using an example from P&H Here's what i came up with so far, I reused the tracks and the quadrant gear racks from the 42055 BWE and also a large part of the body is reused. It has until now 5 motors, I'll use standard IR receivers As always comments are always welcome, I would like to have the operator cabin built in system bricks in minifig scale, But I would be grateful if someone could make an LDD drawing of that cabin with system bricks or technic bricks. I'm planning to make a video when the bucket is attached and everything is more or less operational
  7. Hi all. I've designed the 2002 movie The Time Machine in a Technic build and submitted to Lego Ideas. If you like it, would appreciate your support in helping it become a real Lego set. Direct link to Lego Ideas page Lots more photos and details on the ideas site. It also works! (not the time travel)
  8. Warning: Long post and many pics, mobile user might be careful about the data usage. And bad English. Damn when will this end. This post is more like a record post, I will try to list all the modifications I did on the model. Chapter One: Begining 2018 Aug - 2018 Oct All things start from 2018 mid-August, Lego has officially release the Bugatti Chiron 42083. But I am too broke and poor can't afford it yet (still a student), so I have decide to just do some crazy build at the Lego Digital Designer (LDD) to pretend I have one of it. For the first, I found the 42083.LDD file at this post and the first modification I did is trying to convert it to RC with Buwizz. Here are some of the first references I found on the internet, the source has lost. Then I am just thinking would I do something crazy than this? And I pop up an idea. 8 XL power Bugatti Chiron And all the things are starting from this idea... v2.3 24/08/2018 This is the first power configuration I did, the xl motor is having a gear ratio at 1:3. Which I regret later when I finish building in real life later but that is another story. Also due to the space limit, I have to remove the original big fat W16 and replace it with Didumos's w16 engine design. v2.5 25/08/2018 This is the final configuration I have come with and found this is extremely clever(?), even at the current latest version of the mod still has not change too much of this setup. Chapter Two: The first build 2018 Sep - 2018 Oct After I finish the first (wrong) power configuration, I have another idea is to convert this project to Bugatti Vision instead of Chiron. Also, the color configuration changes to Panda set but highlighted with red. v2.8 29/08/2018 from this. V3.9 16/10/2018 To this. And then I finally have the money to afford this and build it in real life. And the first build has completed, the looks are ok but the road test has successfully failed. As I said before, the gear ratio is 1:3 (12:36), it did run smooth but the 12T gear is damage so fast and it is hard to replace. So on the later versions, It has downgraded to 1:1.6667 (12:20) so the damage is not too high. Also, the RC door is lovely and so so smooth. I am happy with it. The mechanism of the RC door is simple, using an L shape as a Principle of leverage to push out the door. And it is driven by 2x M Motors, one for each side. v3.9 16/10/2018 Chapter Three: The raise of Pneumatic 2018 Oct - 2018 Dec And after the first in real life build setup, things got more and more crazy. The first idea is to make a wide-body kit to let it more steady and heavy. v4.7 09/12/2018 v4.7 inside 09/12/2018 As you can see things go super crazy right here, some of them are working and some of them did not. First, the yellow 5L beam represent of Pneumatic Cylinder V2 1 x 5, the LDD did not have this parts, so... The title of this modification is Pneumatic, include: - Pneumatic Suspension (not work so well at this stage) - Pneumatic center differential lock (failed, rejected) - Pneumatic Disc Brakes (not work at all, rejected) - Pneumatic Door / Pneumatic Dynamic Suspension control (works good after 5 modification later) - Pneumatic Rear Wing control (works well, although I have changed the wing completely at the latest version) "Pneumatic Driven Clutch Brakes & Pneumatic Rear Spoiler Control & Door / Pneumatic Dynamic Suspension control" switch This sound crazy but it is basically having a Servo motor to switch pneumatic valve to active 2 set of action: Set A: - Suspension control (soft/hard) - lock center differential - Un-deploy rear wing - Deactivate Brakes v4.7 09/12/2018 Set B: - Door control (left and right) - unlock center differential - Deploy rear wing - Activate Brakes v4.7 09/12/2018 At then, of course, I have to build it to see how fail it would. Also, you might see there are some electrical wire, those are the custom light, but I don't like it too much at the end. (removed later) And after finished the build, only the rear wing and the SetA/B switch works. - Pneumatic Suspension (too weak and need to redesign) - Pneumatic center differential lock (the differential did not engage well) - Pneumatic Disc Brakes (it can active but can't deactivate, wtf) - Pneumatic Door / Pneumatic Dynamic Suspension control (works good) - Pneumatic Rear Wing control (works well) SetA/B switch works smooth And the first major that has to be solved has to be the Suspension design, I have underrated the weight of the car (~3.4kg), it has to be SOME Suspension. Chapter Four: Redesign the Suspensions 2019 Jan - 2019 Mar Then I saw a post about redesign the whole 42083: [Review|Rant|Mod|MOC|WIP] 42083 revisited by Erik Leppen His suspension redesign has given me an idea... Photo by Erik Leppen And then pop! A new set of suspension design has finished. (Same, yellow 5L beam represent of Pneumatic Cylinder V2 1 x 5) v5 Front 19/03/2019 v5 rear 19/03/2019 Real-life build. New vs old Also, I have remove the rear&front differential to replace with 3:1 (36:12) gear for more tough. (Now planing to replace with new differential 65414&65413) But it turns out it still too weak and soft, so I decided to add 2 hard spring suspension each side. v6.2 30/06/2019 The topside is hard spring suspension and the lower is Pneumatic Cylinder. And it turns out too hard this time... Solution: decrease one spring suspension on each side. Problem solved. Chapter Five: Divo and Second real-life build & first photo shooting 2019 Mar And the next title update is to convert it to the color of Bugatti Divo. v6 28/06/2019 Real-life build. At this stage(v6) I thought I finish this model, it is a good time to stop. And I did feel it is a bit of ugly now but I like it at that moment. So I decided to let it have a Pro photo shooting. Nikon D810 with Sigma ART 40mm With 2 AD200 Flashlight And here are some the pics: Full album here: imgur It is funny that the figure is 1/10 scale and the car is 1/8, it feels so small. And also you see there are lots of stickers, which I don't like it a month later and super regret why I do this. Chapter Six: The come back of 5292 2019 June - 2019 July As all we know, the Lego 5292 Buggy RC motor has discontinued from TLG. And it is selling like 100USD for one on the internet. At the first brainstorm planning, I did have a plan to have 8x 5292 Buggy power plan, but due to the cost, it has been rejected. But one day, I saw this on China market. What the. China has already china the 5292?!!! And it only sold as 68RMB! (~9.8USD) And then this forbidden update has been relaunched. v6 28/06/2019 Due to the size of the 5292 is a bit bigger than 2XL motors, most of the body frame has to be redesign. v9 13/01/2020 Real-life build. And it turns out pretty damn nice! Even in Buwizz slow power mode, it runs pretty smooth too. Due to space limitations and wait for new differential 65414&65413 then I will bring it to a bigger to have a run test. Chapter Seven: The real Divo 2019 June - 2019 Nov One day, I am scrolling Facebook and saw this post from Marc Vink. Post link: link His creation is amazing and his rear light did gave me an idea... Why don't I convert my Bugatti to a truly Divo? Not a Divo-vision thing. Photo by Marc Vink And I have try to create my own one. (Reference to Marc Vink's design) v6.1 29/06/2019 v7.7 25/10/2019 And I think that is it, that is the one. Order parts, build it. Finished and it did look way better than I expected!
  9. StudWorks

    DNR Shifter Issue

    I had a lot of problems with my MOC work-in-progress and I am hoping this will be the last of them. I am using the Porsche 911 GT3RS’ DNR shifter but the 12t gears here aren’t strong enough, making them skip and bend their teeth. I would appreciate if someone could show me a sturdier way or an example of a drive + reverse gearbox design, as compact as possible, with no gear skipping. Thank you.
  10. “Everything that happens once can never happen twice. But everything that happens twice will surely happen a third time.” If there is one thing at BMR that this could apply for, definitely now that September is coming to a close, it would be the month of OcTRAINber. And yes, just like last year, we would like to announce that this year there will indeed be another OcTRAINber building challenge! Just like last year and the year before, OcTRAINber isn’t just a regular challenge, it’s a themed challenge. Two years ago it was all about ridiculous long trains, last year it was all about foreign trains, and this year the challenge is… The Technic Challenge! As you know, OcTRAINber is all about building outside of your comfort zone. Ofcourse, all of us motorize our trains, be it with PUP, PF, IR, 9V, 12V or anything in between. But in real life, not only the wheels move. There is so much more going on in trains and trackside structures that moves around, or wiggles, or turns, or whatever it does, as long as it makes a movement. So, for this year, we thought it would be fun to challenge our Lego Train community to come up with as much train-related stuff that makes movement, other than just the regular motorization of a locomotive. And, different than the last two years, this time it doesn’t have to be a train, it can also be a trackside structure! As long as it has a form of movement not necessary to let it run on the tracks, you are good to go! Rules As per tradition, we won’t tell you as of yet any of the specifics we will use to score builds until October 1st, but, as per tradition, we will give the general rules that are necessary to enter your builds and start planning! “Moving” is defined as: A movement of any locomotive, rolling stock, structure, or other railroad-related item that is NOT indented to propel the item forwards or backwards on track. Of course, the item can have these movements (we even recommend doing this, because static trains are soooo boring), but you will only be scored on extra movements, like doors opening, or running vents, or a moving telehandler on a goods dock… So, you can enter your newly build Acela Express, and it can be 9V powered, but it needs to have some extra modes of movement included as well, otherwise we will disqualify your entry. I’m sure you get the point. Entries must be original models. No stealing. This also means no MODs, only MOCs. We are making no rules for the scale you choose to model in. We are welcoming models of 6, 7, and 8 studs, and anything in between or beyond! However, we appreciate detail and accuracy. Reasonably sized models are usually better for that, but we don’t knock anything or anyone with serious skill. NEW BUILDS ONLY. We are willing to accept anything unpublished or anything that was not published before September 1st 2019 as new. We want to inspire and promote a challenging build, entering an old model doesn’t quite work in that regard. Entries MUST be made on our Flickr group in the appropriate thread. This is the ONLY place we will be looking for entries, nowhere else. Sending photos to us on social media or showing us in person do not count as entries! We will be accepting entries from Midnight on October 1st to Midnight on November 1st (meaning October 31st, at 23:59 PDT). There is possibility of a grace period to ensure those that need that one final Bricklink order have a fair chance. Entries and Prizes Keep in mind that OcTRAINber is a ‘quality over quantity’-building event. This means that we rather encourage you to build one amazing build than several sub-par ones. That’s why, just like last year, we will restrict the number of entries to only one per person. We are not accepting digital entries this year to emphasize the spirit of the challenge. We haven’t finalized on prizes yet, but since this is a building challenge, we will for sure have some, just like in previous years. Just like last year, we want to encourage you to show off your WIPs this year as well, to make OcTRAINber really a month that is all about trains within the Lego community. Therefore, extra credit will be given to the best WIP stories and/or pictures during the event. Specific information about WIP points will be mentioned in the kick-off article, but the rules will be pretty much in line with last year’s event. We will pick the winners after we have announced the official close of the competition and have stopped accepting new entries, which will be some time after November 1. Once the judges (who, just like last year, will be announced in an upcoming article) have come to a sound conclusion regarding the winners, we will post one final article announcing them, and then we will be in contact with those winners regarding their prizes. So, that’s it for now. We are very excited about this years’ installment, hopefully the same goes for all you train-heads out there! Stay tuned for updates on the start of the challenge, the judges and the scoring when OcTRAINber starts on October 1st. So pack your gear and all aboard OcTRAINber! BTW: For more information and extras it's always wise to check out both Brickmodelrailroader.com, our Flickr and our Facebook, but we will ofcourse try our best to also answer your questions here on the famous Train Tech forums!  ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- As we announced a bit over a week ago, this year BMR will again run the OcTRAINber contest. OcTRAINber is a contest meant to get outside of your comfort zone and build something you haven’t thought of before. You know, that one truly special build that will spice up your layout like no other has before. All within the realm of Lego Trains, but with a twist. So, let us officially introduce you to the contest and let’s get rolling! OcTRAINber First of all, the name. It’s called OcTRAINber, if somebody had not noticed after two years. Why OcTRAINber? Well, because it’s a great intermediate month between SHIPtember and November. Also, TRAINS. Mostly TRAINS. TRAINS. “The Technic Challenge” Second of all, the subject of this years OcTRAINber. Why the Technic Challenge? Two years ago we had a ‘build your longest’ theme, and last year we were all about ‘building that foreign dream of yours’. Both of them produced some really nice models, but, in essence, they were all static. Yes, some of them were motorized, and yes, some of them even had very fancy motorization that not even us had thought of before. However, in the end motorization was just a nice have-to, not a requirement, which is strange when you think about it. Therefore, we have decided that this year everything is forced to move. The more movement, the better! The Rules The Rules have already been announced in the previous OcTRAINber post, but for completeness’ sake we have pasted them here again: “Moving” is defined as: A movement of any locomotive, rolling stock, structure, or other railroad-related item that is NOT indented to propel the item forwards or backwards on track.Ofcourse, the item can have these movements (we even recommend doing this, because static trains are soooo boring), but you will only be scored on extra movements, like doors opening, or running vents, or a moving telehandler on a goods dock. So, you can enter your newly build Acela Express, and it can be 9V powered, but it needs to have some extra modes of movement included as well, otherwise we will disqualify your entry. I’m sure you get the point. Entries must be original models. No stealing. This also means no MODs, only MOCs. We are making no rules for the scale you choose to model in. We are welcoming models of 6, 7, and 8 studs, and anything in between or beyond! However, we appreciate detail and accuracy. Reasonably sized models are usually better for that, but we don’t knock anything or anyone with serious skill. Also, the building of Train-related builds which aren’t trains themselves (trackside structures etc.) is stimulated, so no need to even join the 6 vs 7 vs 8 wide wars this year! NEW BUILDS ONLY. We are willing to accept anything unpublished or anything that was not published before September 1st 2019 as new. We want to inspire and promote a challenging build, entering an old model doesn’t quite work in that regard. Type of Entries Unlike the previous two years, we will only accept real-life builds this year. This has everything to do with the subject of this year’s challenge. It’s just virtually impossible to show movement in digital builds, and to prove that it actually works. To level the playing field we have thus decided not to allow digital builds. However, we will have to separate categories of Entries: Direct Drive and Indirect Drive. To explain this a bit further: Direct Drive entries are entries that are/could be driven by a separate motor that is specifically meant for that moment. So think moving crossing poles, a truck that runs around, waggling ducks, a moving carousel… You name it. The Indirect Drive category in the other hand is meant for entries that move around because of a movement that is already happening. So think a train that is already running around due to it’s train motor, but that has some movement that is kinetically powered and only moves when the train moves. Does your Entry have both? Well, then you are in luck and you can enter it in both categories! That’s just a gesture from us here at BMR to stimulate some extra movement :) Third party parts BMR has always been positive towards third-party parts, as long as they have any way of added value to the hobby. So the rule of thumb is simple: Lego: Yes Third Party Parts meant specifically for use with Lego: Yes* Clones: No *Other than the previous years we have made some extra specification to the Third Party Parts. All Third Party Parts this year have to be meant for use with Lego. So BuWizz, PFx Brick, sBrick etc. are allowed, but Arduino and Raspberry Pi are not. Rule of thumb: If it has studs and/or connectors to one of the Lego electric systems, it’s OK. If not, it isn’t. Points Points will be awarded in three categories: Credibility, WIP Story and Movement Factor. First of all, credibility of the prototype. This means we will be looking at how much the build represents the real life prototype. This means the quality of the build, but potential scale etc. If you are sending in a fantasy model, we will look at how credible the build is; would it fit in, does the backstory make sense? (Please note that this means an entry does need to be based in the real-life in some way, so no fantasy universes like Star Wars, etc.) Second of all, the WIP story. This refers to both showing off your building process, but also to how and why you decided to model a certain prototype. The better the story and the more updates you give and the more elaborate your building story is, the better. (Also, feel free to cross-post these pictures in our WIP-thread while you are still building!) Third and last, the Movement Factor. This is all about the how of the movement of your build. So, is it powered in a special way, or does it have some crazy movement, or does it have some special functionality, etc. The more the merrier, but as always with OcTRAINber, it’s about quality first, and quality second. So it’s great if you have some wobbling pigeons, but if one of them also flies up and down… that could definitely add some points. The Judges This contest will have four judges. Why four? Well, because last year we also had four. Just like last year we will have a guest judge related to the building contest. This year our guest judge will be none other than Peer Kreuger, better known as Mahjqa, one of the most well-known technic gearheads out there. Almost (if not all) of Peer’s builds have some funky motorization in them, which time after time surprises and makes his builds even more fun. We are delighted to have him and we hope it will give you guys an extra incentive to build! Glenn Holland Cale Leiphart Gerbrand van den Eeckhout Peer Kreuger (This year’s guest judge!) Timeline We will be accepting entries from Midnight on October 1st (being right now!) to midnight on November 1st (meaning October 31st, at 23:59 PDT). There is possibility of a grace period to ensure those that need that one final Bricklink order have a fair chance Entries Entries are to be sent in ONLY via our own BMR Flickr! There are two discussions; one for the Direct Drive Entries and one for the Indirect Drive Entries. This is the ONLY place we will be looking for entries, nowhere else. Sending photos to us on social media or showing us in person do not count as entries. Next to that, please also add your pictures in the pool! Also, we have a special thread for WIP pictures, just to keep OcTRAINber going. However, do keep in mind that pictures in this thread don’t count as entries! The Prizes No contest without prizes! Just as last year we have some really nice prizes from several outlets. Which prizes specifically will be made public as soon as possible, so to keep the hype train running for a little bit longer! Spare Parts We here over at BMR are very, very excited about OcTRAINber 2019: The Technic Challenge and we are looking forward to all those entries. We are really looking forward to see what the community has to offer in terms of creativity and we hope that all of you will be stimulated by this contest to finally build that one amazing moving MOC that you always wanted to build, but never managed. Also, if there are any things that aren’t fully clear, you can always reach out to us by posting your message below. So pack your gear and get aboard OcTRAINber!
  11. Long time no see! Some of You maybe remember my love for excavators and alternate models - 5 years ago I participated in the TC5 challange for alternate builds with an excavator and thanks to Your support I won the competition. Recently decided to challange myself again with the same task of creating an alternate model of the excavator using a middle sized set. 42094 was a no brainer as the best choice - tracks, turntable, some gears, mini actuator - most of the major components necessary for a successful build. The biggest problem was the lack of the wormgear - it would increase control and strength of the extended arm. Nevertheless, I found a solution, and in the end I'm pleasntly surprised how the MOC turned out. Functions: Working tracks (duhh) no suspension, no boogeys, more stable that way Upper structure rotates, sadly didn't manage to attach a knob, so it's done by grabbing the upper part Working boom similar to my previous build Possible to change the height of the whole boom Bucket and the second section of the arm works together - If You reach further, bucket opens, and vice versa - if the arm is getting closer the bucket closes Arm and boom function is operated by a black knob made from small sprocket pieces, to gain easier access, the rear can be opened. Both of the functions can be switched using a LBG connector that switches the clutch piece. So guys, what do You think? Also, what other alternates You would like to see made from this set? And If You want to get the LDD file than check Rebrickable or link below: MODEL INSTRUCTIONS Cheers!
  12. Technic App-Controlled Top Gear Rally Car Thanks to Lego and EB for this review set - I'd seen the rumors and leaked images, so I was thrilled to get to try it out. Name: App-Controlled Top Gear Rally Car Set Number: 42109 Pieces: 463 Price: $129.99 Minifigs: 0 Theme: Technic The Box Front There is a LOT going on here. Logos everywhere, and not just on the car. But overall, that's a pretty nice looking set. I'm worried that it's over-reliant on the stickers though. I get the Top Gear branding - it makes sense for a car. Except they've never had a rally car on the show driven by the Stig. There were SO many opportunities for a more fitting car - any of the "reasonably priced cars" that they had stars race in (but that would've required more licensing deals), or the Reliant Robin, or the ridiculous P45, or the Hammerhead Eagle i-Thrust, or best of all, the indestructible Toyota Hilux. This feels more like Lego designed a rally car set and then got TG to do a licensing deal and just slapped stickers on it. The Box Back Yep, it's the Stig. With so much Top Gear branding, I feel like this set is Euro-targeted. Yes, people here in the USA have sometimes seen Top Gear on the internet, and there was a few episodes of "Top Gear America," but it's still not a popular thing here. I think the average person seeing this on a shelf won't know the reference. And sadly, no sign of a B-model.... even worse, no Stig is included. This would have been a GREAT opportunity to bring back the Technic figures and have an all-white one. The Box Side Here's the electronics included. You get a Powered Up hub, a large motor, and an XL motor. Yes, this is the bigger hub that has FOUR ports. It's previously only available in the Off-Roader set and the massive Leibherr Excavator. That alone will probably sell some of these sets. The Contents Nothing shocking - a manual, sticker sheet, non-numbered bags of parts, and an inner box that has the electronic stuff. The Stickers Yep, there's a lot of them. And they're full of puns and TG references. But being Lego, not the inappropriate TG jokes (sorry, no Penistone or anything like that) The New Parts Yes, there is a new differential in the set. It's actually pretty nice - it's easier to use than the old one, since you don't have any of the inner gears falling out while you're trying to put it in place. And it's the same size, but with a double-bevel gear so you've got more flexibility in driving it. As for other new parts, the only thing I noticed was the mudguard panel in white, which you get FIVE of. The Build, 1 The build starts with the simple drive system. It's upside down in the photo - you've got the rear axle with the differential. It'll take advantage of the new diff gear by using a simple drive. The motor will get a gear attached and directly drive the diff. I also appreciate the new cable management clips, which come in a couple colors in this set. The Build, 2 Here is the chassis basically done. It has a fair bit of decorative bits - brake discs on the rear axle, engine components up front (around the L motor which handles the steering), and dual exhausts. The Build, 2B The steering is directly done, like the drive setup. The L motor has a small gear that meshes with a gear rack to steer. The Build, Done All that was left is adding the body panels. And stickers. So many stickers. There's big ones, little ones, all over. The car looks really naked without them. The Underside From the bottom, the car looks pretty boring. There's no drive train, suspension, etc. Having the two motors so directly driving their functions makes it mechanically a pretty simplistic set. The batteries are easily accessible, and you can see two of the new larger 7x11 frames in white. Those give the car a lot of strength without needing many parts to reinforce it. The Side View There's a few cosmetic misses, IMHO. There is a gap in front of the black panels at the rear, behind the "door" - it's necessary due to how the beams behind it are placed, but that panel with "The Stig" on it would look better a stud or two forward. I don't like the different tire sizes either. It's partially to give the car an aggressive posture, and it's partially for easier clearance on the steering mechanism. The larger tires do fit the front wheel wells, but they just barely rub when the steering is turned to the max. I just think the littler tires look too small. The App Yes, you MUST have an Apple or Android device to use this set. Well, perhaps the Powered Up remote could control it, but I didn't test that. They completely expect you to use the app. So before you buy the set, make sure you can get the Technic Control+ app on your device (I don't know how old of devices it'll work on). This is the primary interface. You use your left thumb to steer, on the corner steering wheel. Your right thumb controls the throttle on the right. There is a handbrake, but it doesn't do much (the car stops pretty fast on its own). And you can switch to "manual transmission" where you select one of 3 gears, which do affect the car's speed. There are also some "races" you can do, driving the car following onscreen prompts and trying to beat a set time. The Video So how does it drive? Well... it's a mixed bag. Personally, I think it's too slow. It's a race car, Lego. Not a piece of construction equipment. It does maneuver well and the app works well to drive it. One perk is that the new motors have position sensors built in, so the steering automatically returns to center. It's not perfect though - it would typically be still curving slightly any time I tried to go straight. The Results Overall, how is the set? I think it's a nice set. The cost seems high, but that's driven by the new Control+ system. Lego doesn't currently sell any of the included parts alone, but for comparison, the smaller PUP Hub retails for $50. The Medium motor retails for $17. So I'm sure Lego would value the hub and motors from this set at $90+. Given that, the value of the set is good. However, on Bricklink, the current selling price is $25-30 for this hub and $15-20 each for the motors. There's a lot of people parting out the Liebherr set! One huge benefit to Technic builders is that there's now a car in the app. You could easily design your own car, and as long as you have an L motor for steering and an XL for driving, the app would work. There are definitely things that I think could be better on the car, it needs a B-model, it's expensive, and I seriously wish it came with a Stig to drive it. Overall though, I'd give it a solid B. Whether it's a good buy for you depends on your wants - do you want a Technic app-controlled car? If yes, go buy it! Then mod it to go faster
  13. I need some help with my buggy. I can’t figure out how to get Ackermann geometry on my front steering unit and previous steering systems were either too large or unusable. I have been heavily inspired by didumos’s greyhound 4wd rc buggy. photos on bricksafe: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Clev/#
  14. https://imgur.com/a/yc7vwrW Hello! Going to start using this thread as documentation of my LPE (Lego Pneumatic Engine) Powered vehicle, mostly for personal use but also for those who are new to LPE’s and can learn from my mistakes. Currently, it’s a combination of these creations: - A modified V4 version of Green Gecko LEGO Technic Creation’s V8 - Eurobrick user Rudivdk’s 5+R Transmission with only minimal modification for compatibility with frame - Sheepo’s Modular Platform System Unibody (C.A.1) and XL 4-Link rear axle (R.ED.1.4) (modified due to either budget or mounting reasons) https://www.sheepo.es/p/mps.html?m=1 Upgrade To-Do List: - Free-wheel Ratchet for Pneumatic Engine output - Braking system - Possibly V6? - Front axle (Sheepo MPS MacPherson) - Central differential for AWD - Electronics to control transmission - High Pressure Air tank for powering LPE - Vehicle Body(ies) (Most likely will be a DeLorean and possibly also an alternative Subaru WRX STi body) Will update as improvements/milestones occur. Feel free to correct anything (I’m new to posting on Eurobricks so I may have made a mistake somewhere), suggest upgrades, and/or ask any questions. My overall goal is to create a decently realistic LEGO vehicle that will function similarly to an actual manual transmission vehicle. I intend to keep modularity as intact as possible, allowing for the whole vehicle to be disassembled into sections. The only real limit of this project is budget but every now and then, I get the extra cash to spend on improving this vehicle. I will be painfully digitally designing the vehicle in LEGO digital designer along the way and hopefully once the project is complete, I’ll have a complete digital copy of the whole vehicle, as well as a physical copy.
  15. drakmin

    [MOC] 1400mm X-wing

    Today I started a new model. I'll build it mainly using light bluish grey Technic parts. Here's a first sketch to plan Bricklink order:
  16. Teo LEGO Technic

    [MOC] URAL 4320 Trial Truck

    Hey everyone! First of all Happy New Year to everybody! Here's my last MOC of 2019, a URAL 4320 4x4 Trial Truck. It features: -working steering with servo motor and adjustable working steering wheel -4x4 drive with 2 differentials powered by 2 x power functions XL motors, and fed by 2 x 2.0 pf receivers and 2 x lithium battery boxes -opening doors -working lights A couple pictures of the model, more on here: https://www.bricksafe.com/pages/Teo_LEGO_Technic/ural-truck My main goal with this project was to make a robust trial truck with tons of ground clearance and tons of torque and solid steering, while not having anything be at risk of breaking. For this reason I have an XL on each axle, as a 5 x 7 frame with a differential can hold the full torque of one XL without damage to the gears. Extra torque was achieved by using the Unimog portal axles. The truck can stand Sariel's wall test, i.e. when the wheels lock up on a grippy terrain no gears break anywhere. The steering is also precise, with no intermediate gears between the servo motor and the rack and pinion system. It too can handle the full power of the servo without any danger of breakage. The suspension too is robust and meant to operate as smoothly as possible. Putting the battery boxes low down on the sides helps it be as difficult to topple over as possible, bearing in mind how high it is off the ground. My secondary goal was to emulate the rugged look of Ural trucks, which only look as good as they should when every little curve and angle is modelled like the real thing. This includes the curvature of the front grill, the form of the bonnet, the angled headlight frames, and the subtly angles and tilted front windshield. I'm fairly satisfied with the result, and overall it's a truck I'm pretty happy with. Nothing super fancy, no gearbox, just a solid chassis and a good-looking body. Hope you guys enjoyed it!!
  17. I have been working on my largest build ever and have hit a big issue. The 2 sets of frames keep flexing in a way that makes the decks be out of alignment. Any ideas how to fix this. Sadly I can not add a picture not sure why.
  18. Jan-'17 Now, building instruction file (PDF) is available at Rebrickable linked below http://www.rebrickable.com/mocs/Modoro/motorized-42056-porsche-911-gt3-rs-version-11 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi.. everyone! This my 2nd posting here, introducing my own renovation(or remodeling) of TECHNIC 42056 PORSCHE 911 GT3 RS. Among the newly released 2016 Lego models, "TECHNIC 42056 PORSCHE 911 GT3 RS" received the best attention before release. In addition to its nice and detailed appearance, now I attempt to review the process of blowing features including RC driving and 4-speed gearbox shifting, and LED lights as well. The video above shows the process of remodeling TECHNIC 42056 PORSCHE 911 GT3 RS and a driving test in the following order. The process of remodeling each part of PORSCHE chassis Driving and steering test of the remodeled PORSCHE chassis The process of binding the renovated chassis to the PORSCHE body Field driving test The main target of this RC remodeling is just a chassis (or power-train) that is composed of front/rear axis, power transmission and steering units. The following figure compares the before and after appearance of the renovated PORSCHE chassis. <Before> <After> The changes and features of the renovated PORSCHE chassis are as follows Mounted drive motors (L-motor x 4) Mounted a steering motor (S-motor x 1) Modified gear shifting method not using the paddle shift remodeling of the 4-speed sequential gearbox for enhanced durability and power transmission efficiency Mounted PF battery (optionally, two batteries) Mounted two SBRICKs for the remote control capability While including all of the above modifications, it maintains the design and major features of the original 42056 model. (rear fake engine room, Hand of God, glove box, toolbox under the hood etc.) This review is divided into a total of 9 sections, and the following videos illustrate the building progress of each section, respectively. part 1: chassis frame remodeling In this section, the main contents of RC motorizing 42056 PORSCHE chassis is largely divided into three sub-parts and will be described as follows . 1) reinforcement of chassis regidity A dictionary meaning of chassis frame is defined as "the frame plus the "running gear" like engine, transmission, drive shaft, differential, and suspension" In the original 42056 model implementing the real PORSCHE 911 GT3 RS in LEGO model, a chassis is composed to support the body, transmissions, front and rear axis, engine etc. By the way, LEGO designers did not consider the RC driving from the stage of planning the TECHNIC 42056 model. Thus the chassis regidity, weakened by adding driving & steering motors, gear-shifting motors and battery boxes, cannot maintain the body shape of its own secure and inhibits the stable driving performance. In order to reinforce the chassis regidity that is more weakened by removing liftarms to mount 4 driving L-motors under the gear-box, 42056 chassis core is newly configured using a total of thress TECHNIC 5x11 liftarms. 2) provision of driving motor mounting space 4 driving L-motors are mounted under the gear box between the driver and front passenger. 3) provision of gear-shifting axle mounting space In the original 42056 model, The transmission and drive shaft axis are designed in the form perpendicular to each other. According to this design, gear shifting can be done accurately, smoothly and sequentially from 1st speed to 4th speed. However in the driving test progress, it turned out that thress 24-toothed bevel gears in driving pathways can not deliver high torque & power to the rear axle and differential gears. Thus, to remove three bevel gears in the pathway of the remodeled 42056 chassis, gear shifting axle is heightened by 3L and driving shaft is connected right to the 4-speed transmissions. part 2: 4-speed sequential gearbox remodeling part 3: control units for the RC gear shifting part 4: driving motors mounting part 5: dashboard remodeling part 6: front/rear axis remodeling part 7: rear engine room remodeling part 8: assembly process of the renovated PORSCHE chassis part 9: binding the renovated chassis to the body of PORSCHE These are all I prepared for the review of the motorized 42056 PORSCHE model. Thanks for reading & watching (-;
  19. These two lego great ball contraption modules are designed to be simple and reliable so that they can easily be built by new lego gbc builders but still be cool and interesting to watch. I designed these GBC modules to be able to share the power/motor from one module, this means that you can easily power up to about 5-6 great ball contraption modules from one motor. You can also easily use almost any modern lego motor, including Mindstorms and lego powered up motors to power the modules. One of the reasons I built these modules is because I wanted to build some simpler modules that are easy to build. I hope you like it, if you want to build them I have made the Bricklink Studio file, part list and PDF instructions available for free on Rebrickable here: Conveyor || Stepper
  20. Technic General Discussion Welcome to the Technic General Discussion topic. Here you can post small questions or comments about Lego Technic which don't need a topic of their own. This way we will keep the number of topics limited. Examples Has anyone built vehicle x? Where can I find this or that? I missed this set on eBay...darn!
  21. Technic Mobile Crane Thanks to Lego and EB for this review set - I had seen nothing about this set before reviewing it, and I've deliberately tried to stay away from discussions on it, so you can get my own thoughts on the set. Name: Mobile Crane Set Number: 42108 Pieces: 1292 Price: $99.99 Minifigs: 0 Theme: Technic The Box Front A very nice front to the box. Good action shot, a nice backdrop, but for some reason, the Lego graphic designers decided to cut off just a hair of the set at the top and bottom. The Box Back A usual Technic back - all the action features on display, some see-thru images, but wait... NO B MODEL? Seriously? On a $100 set, there's no mention of an alternate model? Not a good thing. The Contents Again, pretty normal. Manual and stickers in a bag, parts in 3 sets of bags, plus an un-numbered back with the tires. The Manual Those parts will neatly break down into building steps. First the chassis, then the cab and part of the crane, and then the rest of the crane. The Stickers Again, typical Technic sticker sheet. Warnings, control instructions, and decorative parts. And with all the OK references in there, I'm assuming Olav Krøigaard designed this set. The Build, 1 After a little bit of building, you have this frame. The 4 axles are in place, all of which steer. The outriggers are also in place, as are the front seats. The two vertical grey connectors behind the seats are both connected to the steering, so I see the HOG steering system already forming as well. The Build, 1b This crane seats three. And although those curved panels seem logically designed to be mudguard or similar, I'm pretty sure that seats has been their most common usage. The Build, 2 At the end of bag set 2, the front end is done and the base of the crane is in place. Yes, that's one of the new long linear actuators as well. And unsurprisingly, the hazard lights on top of the cab are the steering knobs. The Build, 2b Most of the crane mechanism is in place. Both the linear actuator and the cable spool are here and functional. The Build, 2c Speaking of the cable spool, I appreciate the usage of the slit in the technic wedge belt wheel here. This was probably the easiest string to get started of any Technic set I've ever built. The Build, 2d Here's the underside. There's no drive connected to any of the axles - the "driveshaft" going the length of the crane is for steering. There's no fake engine in this, nor any suspension or any other complications. The Build, 3 Add the last of the parts and the crane is done. It looks pretty nice in this position, certainly very recognizable as to what it is. The crane arm gets in the way of the lights used for steering on top of the cab, but it's still drivable. The turning radius is surprisingly small, since all 4 axles steer. And yes, the 1 and 4 axles steer more than the 2 and 3 do, so the geometry is pretty good. But please, could you make that 20 tooth double bevel gear in a color other than blue? So far, this version of the gear (which has a smooth center hole, not an axle hole) only comes in blue. It just looks so glaring at the top of the boom there. Moving on to other details... The Outriggers, Rear The rear outriggers are simple and semi-effective. They're easy to operate with the black gear knob, but they only just barely go overcenter, so wiggling the crane around can make them close. They just barely lift the crane off the ground - you have to be on a hard surface to notice. On carpet, it's not enough height. The Outriggers, Front The front outriggers are less good, IMHO. They have the same geometry, so the same issues with not actually doing a ton. To operate them though, you just pull the red ball with a finger. Once the wheels are attached, there's not much room to get at it. Kids would have less issues than I do, I'm sure. The Controls, Left The controls for the crane are very direct. There's no complicated gearbox or anything. On this side, the black knob extends and retracts the inner section of the boom. The red catch on top keeps it from retracting unexpectedly. And again with the blue gear... The Controls, Right The right side has 2 knobs. One raises and lowers the boom and the other winds the cable. It too has a catch like the boom extension. Again, simple and ready to play with, but not complicated for the adult builders to enjoy. However, be ready to spend some time raising and lowering the boom. Thanks to the long actuator, it took me 60 twists of the knob (turning it about half way around each time) to raise it. That's a lot of twisting... The Chassis The crane looked good in the down position, but when you raise the boom, there's a big gaping hole in the middle of the chassis. Would a few more pieces to fill that in have been too much to ask for? The Finished Crane Once you've finished building and raised the crane, this thing is huge. The height is very impressive. In fact, that may be the tallest of the Technic cranes. If you have the boom horizontal, out to the side, and fully extended, the crane WILL tip over unless you have the outriggers down, and then it just barely stays upright. The Comparison The logical comparison is to the previous Mobile Crane, set 42009. That 2013 set is significantly larger - the price was more than twice as much ($220 vs $100) with double the parts (2606 vs 1292, and it came with a battery box and motor). Even though they are at different scales, the actual crane booms are very close in length. 42009 had a 3 segment boom - so did the extra segment help with size? The Comparison - Height Nope, the extra segment doesn't help at all. The smaller set actually reaches slightly higher. The extra segment on 42009 requires more overlap between the sections and more complicated mechanisms, so it doesn't actually extend the reach. The Conclusion I think the new crane is a great set, for certain buyers. It's not for the AFOL - we've got 42009 to meet our desires for big and complicated. The new mobile crane is a great play set. The controls are simple and direct, so kids will have no problem playing with it as a crane. Where it falls flat is the lack of B model, which leaves it feeling overpriced. By the standard 10 cents/part measure, it's a good value. But in reality, it doesn't quite feel like a $100 set. On sale, or if you have a newer Technic fan who wants a crane, then buy all means, grab it! It's also a pretty solid parts pack - quite a few wheels, gears, long beams, and of course the new long linear actuator. Overall, I give this set a B. It's solid, but not a star.
  22. Hello! This is my newest lego creation! It is already on my youtube channel. Its a 4x4 armoured vehicle. Inspired by the real one: BRDM-2. It has four functions controlled with buwizz: driving (2 xl motors), steering (L motor), turning gun tower (M motor), front and rear lights. Video is here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OzIHMlj9EK8 Here are some photos:
  23. In this video from a while ago I demonstrate the torque calculation of a Lego Technic MOC crane axle in order to work out the maximum torque before axle failure (i.e. twisting itself to bits). This would apply to any high torque technic mode (axle failure torque). https://youtu.be/OydlrN3sdKI Hope you like this video. Any comments or feedback appreciated. Kind Regards and keep building, Rob
  24. Functions/features: Steering (controlled via the steering wheel) Full live axle suspension 4-speed transmission (controlled via a shift lever by the driver's seat) V8 engine Opening side door Removable interior elements (dining table, benches, bed, range and sink) Removable body Video: Photos:
  25. Hey guys, here's a new project I started recently. It is a model of the Volvo EC350E excavator, featuring pneumatics and SBrick control. As of right now I have the superstructure completed. All electronics for the model are contained within here. At the center of the superstructure is a 8043-style gearbox that switches the 3 L motors between left track, right track, and superstructure rotation, respectively, and boom valve, jib valve, and bucket valve, respectively. A M motor powers the gearbox shifting and the pneumatic pump simultaneously. This is possible thanks to a clutch gear on the gearbox shifting mechanism, allowing the motor to drive the pump even when shifting is complete. This will be my last MOC before I go off to college. I move in next Thursday, so I'll try to get at least most of it done before I leave. I won't be building as much anymore with college starting - maybe a MOC or two over breaks. However, if I don't get this MOC done before I leave I'll try to finish it in small increments in the weekends I come home. Photos: