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Found 1376 results

  1. Hello Everybody, I started since long with an ambitious MOC, a mobile port crane. I'll try to make it to a finished product, parts and motivation permiting. I'm not so good at inventing new models from scratch and design them well. but here goes... It will be sort of a combination between to models, one frome Liebherr and the other from Kone cranes. My model has 8 sets of 2 wheels, all of them are steered and 2 sets of wheels are driven by an XL-motor. The Steering mechanism is driven by an L-motor. The outriggers are also driven by 2 L-motors. In the above picture, the 4 centre bogies were driven, but I already changed the design, so only 2 are driven now, and the drive itself has been changed also. The centre outrigger mechanism and the outriggers are based on the design of IVAN MOCS concrete pump. Here two outriggers are completely finished, I'm waiting for spare parts to finish the other 2 outriggers. in this foto I already put the slewing arrangement based on the one from the 42082 RTC.
  2. 42093 alternate model, a Rough Terrain Crane. More on
  3. Some of you may remember my Azure Racer from a few years ago. It was a small simple buggy that was meant to be a leisurely build after my BrickFair VA projects of that summer. It had only one L motor for drive, but had decent speed. This model will be a sequel to that - it'll be larger (with Unimog tires), dark azure instead of medium azure, and powered by BuWizz and driven by 2 RC motors. In fact, this will be my first MOC to use BuWizz and RC motors - something I wanted to get for years and finally obtained two of them. The front axle will be a double wishbone independent suspension using shocks from the 9398 set. I haven't used them in years, and it's nice to bring them back again. The rear suspension will also be independent, but it'll be the RC motors themselves that are part of the suspension. Each motor will be connected to one wheel that'll be mounted on its own pivot point and shock absorber, essentially creating an independent suspension. I'm really looking forward to building this model. With the BuWizz on ludicrous or fast powering 2 RC motors driving a relatively lightweight model, I anticipate getting A LOT of speed out of this thing. Photo:
  4. Some Belgian LEGO Fan

    [MOC] Kässbohrer PistenBully 600

    Hi guys I present you the Kässbohrer PistenBully 600, top of the range of the well known alpine ski slope preparation machines. The model reproduced in LEGO Technic is true to scale 1:16 and contains 2044 parts (excluding pneumatic tubes). I submitted it in LEGO Ideas: (For more pictures, see LEGO Ideas site.) The model has many functions, some of which can be controlled remotely: Drive: both tracks are motorised individually and can be controlled remotely Pusher blade up/down and swivel are pneumatic, controlled from within the cabin The pusher blade side panels are motorised and can be controlled remotely In-cabin selector to switch between compressor and pusher blade side panels operation Tiller rotation is motorised and can be controlled remotely Tiller up/down is pneumatic, controlled on the tiller arm Side finisher are deployed pneumatically, controlled on the tiller arm Tiller swivel is a free movement so it follows the vehicle's path Cabin can be tilted forward and locked in normal position by levers under the engine cover The model uses stickers on a couple of panels and tiles: Doors left and right Tiller cover left and right Front logo Rear view mirrors Centre console monitor Centre console selector and two parts in a new colour: 3x5 liftarm in black (4x) 2x2 round plate in trans-orange (2x) LEGO Ideas rules did not allow this image: Please note that not all new pneumatic and PoweredUp parts are available in BrickLink Studio, that is why it has the wrong battery box, the old L-motors, the old pneumatic switches and no pneumatic tubes. The real version I made works fine though. Let's hope for some snow this winter so I can test it in real life ;) This model can be transformed in the PistenBully 600E+ by replacing the red parts with bright green. I tried adding the winch, but it didn't look good. I guess it's shape is too difficult (for me) to reproduce in LEGO Technic. So no winch for now... To do: - Make an animation showing the functions - Give the winch another try - Add penumatic tubes in drawing (I could try this by exporting the model to LDraw) - Replace L motors and battery unit with PoweredUp version when they become available in BrickLink Studio. Suggestions are most welcome. I hope you like it. If you do, I would be very gratefull for your support on
  5. A simple tracked loader model with Control+. Features subtractor drive, arm elevation, bucket tilt, and lighting by Brickstuff. Functions/features: Subtractor drive Arm elevation Bucket tilt Lights (Brickstuff LEDs) Photos: Video:
  6. For long, I've wanted a small strong mini Lego Technic motor, smaller than an M-motor. As I recently learnt how to draw Lego parts and had the opportunity to use 3D printed nylon (using laser sintering) , I decided to try a small motor as well. As the PU motor stuff is getting big and heavy, this is my response: a small easy-mountable motor with a case of only 5 by 2 by 2 studs. 70% of the motors in Lego Technic models don't have to be large. Only the mount of this tiny motor is 2x3 studs. The mount is tailor made for Technic applications: if you build often with M-motors you will know that an M-motor always must be connected to a 1L beam to ensure that the gears won't slip and to mount the M motor securely. The mount design of this new motor eliminates the need for the beam, so that's one stud saved already. Because the motor is only 2 studs wide, 3 mini motors can be in the space of 2 M-motors. Also, 3 mini motors take up the space of one XL motor.. The exterior design is derived from a PF M-motor, because I like the design and want to keep using the PF looks. This is still a work in progress as I need to mount a 9V connector and insert the inner electric motor(already in stock here). I also need to do some more painting and sanding. Nonetheless, the printed parts are quite accurate. I will give an update soon when the motor is working. The motor gets internal electrics that work up to 12V so also third party remote control bricks will be allowed to use their boost modes. My big hope is that TLG understands that we need small motors and remotes, not big ones. The length of 5 studs makes this motor very easy to put in all kinds of leftover spaces. Thanks for reading. I'm open to design improvements!
  7. It is evident, at least for me, that there has been a significant decrease in the number of MOCs that are made and I would like to know your opinion about that... Almost everything is already built?, new pieces are needed?, do it happens with all the Lego themes?, or maybe is just me?.
  8. Few months have gone since I built my last alternative model from set 42106 and I got desire to build another one. The first model was Pullback Racer that I built for TC18 contest - more about it is here. Then I built Pullback Plane - more about it is here. And finally now I've built Pullback Helicopter. I planned to build it even before plane but I rejected it because I didn't see the way how to connect both rotor blades with pullback motor and landing gear. Set 42106 contains only 5 bevel gears and I usually use 6 for helicopter (three pairs). Later I find solution for problem with missing gear - I saved one bevel gear by connecting axle for tail rotor blade to another pair of bevel gears that transmit motion from horizontal axle to vertical. The only con of this solution is low possiion of axle for tail rotor - see picture of mechanism. The last issue, I had to solve, was possion of center of gravity - it was too close to tail so helicopter made wheelies. I prevent them by adding structure under tail rotor blade. Do you think it was all for now? No, it wasn't. I've got one more idea, much crazier idea - I wanna build Pullback Steam Engine! I focused more to functionality than its look so proportions are not correct but it really works. Pullback motor is connected to rear axle and it drives also middle axle thanks to piston-rods. Front axle with small wheels works just like stabilizer (I had to move driven axles too far to rear behind center of gravity and whole vehicle would fall on its front without small wheels). Finally I added optional flame on chimney (smoke would be better but I didn't find any in donor set). I plan to make video of steam engine in action but it will not be anytime soon. Any comments and criticism are welcomed.
  9. Hello everyone! In these hard times I began my old dream to come true - I have started developing a car. This is definitely not a sport/super/hyper car. My aim is to build a luxury sedan. Brand will me mentioned later, I assume after the chassis with drive train will be done (if it would). As for now I'm going to build fully manual version with advanced realistic suspension with pneumatic brakes,, 4WD (actually original has only RWD, but full is more interesting and complex), interesting V/W 8-12 fake engine and rotating gearbox shifters on the steering wheel (initial and genuine idea by @Charbel), detailed interior. And from the very beginning I've faced with difficulties: Those ball-joints are very hard to rotate, the route from the steering rack to the wheel should be the strongest and the simplest in one time. Still no idea for the rear brakes implementation. No room for the fake engine prototype. I want to use regular cylinder parts, but with the crankshaft from the 42078 set (as example). Too hard to place front drivetrain, steering axle, gearbox and gearbox shifters. At my point I think I need 100*100 studs place to handle all this. I'm afraid I'll have to refuse from the front driving feature to handle all other modules. But who knows. And the last fear is the political situation in my country, I don't want to discuss it here, but the mood is very sad and I can be repressed anyway, though.
  10. Hi, I have designed a series of tracked vehicle using either 4 or 6 L or XL motors with two buwizz. And the problem i keep having is that after about 30 seconds to a minute the power to one side is shut off. If i then leave it to rest for a minute it will go again, but it will cut out sooner after that. The components to not heat up noticeably. I have experimented with different sizes and weights, and the problem is more noticable at higher speeds and weight. but weirdly enough it runs fine before the "limit" kicks in. I have cross connected the motors so it is not one buwizz that is at fault. Is there some sort of power limit i am reaching? Thanks in advance.
  11. Dimensions: 29.5 x 49 x 30 studsWeight: 1524 g Instruction: download here To see all my ongoing projects follow me on instagram @anton.kablash Functions: 0. In the model i kept original chassis with improvements and adjustments HoG 4-speed sequential gearbox All wheel drive with 3 differentials Independent suspension on both axles Working detailed in-line 6-cylinder engine Working steering wheel in the cab Openable doors, hood The driver's cab can be tilted for access to a detailed V6 engine Working doors locks Detailed exterior and interior
  12. Hello there, This is my dream car which I'll probably never be able to afford, so I built it myself This model is finished, so while I'd love to hear your opinion, it probably won't result in any changes Scale: 1:7.7 These functions are controlled in the inside of the car: -Pop up headlights -6 speed manual tansmission hooked up to a exposed fake Engine -front boot release (or whatever this is called) -steering (and HoG) Doors and trunks and glass engine cover can be opened. Double wishbone suspension all around Ackerman steering geometry Detailled interior and Engine bay Sariels Model Scaler helped me soo much to get all the proportions and angles accurate, I can only recommend using it. I tried to make the car look as clean as possible by replacing different colored pins and stuff with black ones, as far as possible. Instructions are now available on Rebrickable: These pictures are not very good quality, because I took them with my smartphone in my dusty basement, and because I basically dont know anything about photography. Hope you enjoy them anyways. Gray Gear Here are some pictures of just the transmission, the shift mechanism will follow up soon ;) The green Gear is where the Crankshaft of the Engine is attached. This is the shift mechanism. The red parts are directly moving the Gear rings. Hopefully this helps to understand how things work. Blue = 1/2 gear Yellow = 3/4 gear Gray = 5/6 gear The Green Assembly is to stop multiple Gears to engage at the same time. It picks up the left and right movement of the shift lever and moves a sliding blocking piece in parrallel to the lever. Like this, it is impossible to engage a gear without moving the shift lever, and multiple gears cant engage at the same time and cause a block. Gray Gear
  13. RoxYourBlox

    [MOC] Fiesta Balloon

    Fiesta Balloon soars above Lego city! To contribute to Eurobricks' airship collaboration at Brickworld Virtual Halloween 2020, I swapped the color palette of Harley's Balloon with rainbow colors spiraling around to emulate the more vibrant patchwork pattern you might typically see in the sky. Its name refers to the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta, which I would someday like to attend after our pandemic is over. Stunningly hollow thanks to a dome technique refined over 10 years, the balloon can rest on its gondola or float from a technic beam installed at the apex. My previous technic balloon skeleton has been strengthened with #24121 11x11 quarter technic gear racks to beef up stability and allow access inside the top or bottom hemispheres by removing the equatorial plates. An optional reversible handle can be mounted inside the hole at the top to carry or hang it.
  14. Hey guys, first time posting in the scale model forum. Hope I've got this right I've been building various machine tools for a workshop on my layout. One of them was a Haas VF2-SS, a 3-axis CNC milling machine. I got this stupid idea to stick a motor in to get the spindle moving but it blew the scale way off, so I rebuilt a totally different model with a bit more bulk, the UMC-750 5-axis mill. Here's the full gallery, more video and images below: Front view. Doors slide open: Back view showing the motor. Currently uses a PF M motor but I originally had the old 4x5 motor running. The real machine runs at 8k+ rpm and those old motors push 4k, so not too far off. I'm not doing any actual milling so torque isnt much of an issue ;) Side view showing the movable control panel: Other side, showing the tool changer and cooling hoses. The real thing has a 40+1 tool capacity, which wasnt too feasible. I'm sure there's a better solution for this, but I'm happy with it for now Internal view showing the platter, chip conveyor, spindle, etc: And the real thing for comparison! Cheers :)
  15. I need help with making lego mecha joints, and a good technic frame.
  16. This great ball contraption module uses I mechanism that holds the balls until there are 13 in it, then the mechanism gets triggered and it started lifting the balls and dumps them into the next module. It is quite a complex mechanism, it works well, as long as it runs at the same speed you set it up for. As far as reliability, it is quite reliable when it is set up to get triggered by 13 balls, and even more reliable when you are ok with 12 or 13. (if you have not guessed by now, this was built for the Great Ball Pit challenge to build a module that only outputs 13 balls at a time) I don't know how log it can run, I have ran it for about 45 minutes and it has not had any problems, but I would not be surprised if it stopped working after a few hours. Hope you like it, there are more photos on flickr here.
  17. Hello everyone, this is the latest work of MTC lego studio:AZURA LMP2 Racing Car Designed by CrMo2001 Here are detailed introductions to this work: -Long 47,Wide 21 (Lego unit) -2 × “control+ L motors” for propulsion -1 × “control+ L motors” for steering -LEGO Bluetooth control module -Front and rear independent suspension -Technic parts build chassis, Brick parts build appearance When designing this car, there are two main points, one is the suspension, the other is the appearance. The size of CONTROL+ components is very large, while LMP racing car is very low, so the Bluetooth hub is put in the middle, the front bridge module is on the front side, the drive motor is placed on both sides, and the layout of the rear bridge module is on the rear side. Otherwise, the height will exceed the limit and the appearance production will be affected. In a real LMP car, the driver's seat is not centered but, by habit, left or right. So I put the driver's seat on the left and the steering motor on the right in a symmetrical position. The CONTROL motor has a built-in code disk, so the L motor can be used as a servo motor and can be customized with Powered UP. The motors on both sides drive the wheels on both sides respectively, and the transmission systems on both sides are independent. This also eliminates the differential. The power of the motor is first transmitted to the middle shaft through four 16-tooth gears, and then to the wheels. To prevent transmission interference, 16 teeth on both sides are staggered by 1 unit. For the design of the exterior, I pay more attention to the continuity of the lines of the vehicle. In some places, in order to better shape the curved surface, the Technic parts are used. Brick parts are not dominant in the construction of some complex curved surfaces, but cylindrical and flat surfaces are basically preferred. I made my first attempt to add a clear windshield to the MOC. The windshield comes from 76139 (1989 Bat Mobile), and a black printed vertical line in the middle is worn away. In practice, the windshield is slightly lower in height and the front is too steep. But I couldn't find a better one than to 3D print one. Here is a more detailed picture, hope you can enjoy it. The LMP race car has a drop-shaped cab, which I tried to recreate with Lego. Some airflow channels are left on the side. Front and rear The Building Insitructions will be released in the near future, so stay tuned! Thanks for browsing!Thank you!
  18. I'm doing something simple this time after building two complex MOCs. Given that I'm busy with college right now, this should be a pretty manageable project for me. It'll be a simple tracked loader model with subtractor drive. I've already got the subtractor mechanism built, and it'll likely be the rear sprockets that'll be driven. The propulsion motor is a C+ XL and the steering motor is a C+ L. The C+ hub will likely sit in the front of the chassis towards the bottom (assuming it's the rear sprockets that'll be driven) and bucket elevation/tipping will be a C+ XL and C+ L, respectively. As for the bodywork, I'm planning on making it bright light orange with the pieces from the 42099 set. If you have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photos:
  19. Welcome to my garage LEGO!!! Hello! My name is Michael. I'm a Builder from Russia, I love muscle cars! But this time I have prepared something special! Meet the Chevrolet K10 Silverado!!! Description: - 2 L motor for drive - Servo motor for steering and steering wheel - 1 Small power supply ( Hot swap ) - Counterfeit engine under the hood (connected to motors) - Detailed interior - Doors, hood and trunk open - Swap body -4x4 Instagram: Join my group in VK: All photos on the link: For the first time I used the construction of the chassis separately from the body, that is, the body can be easily removed and any other body can be built on the chassis.
  20. I haven't built anything from Technic for couple of months so I wanted to create something cool and cute. I took all azure parts from rally car (set 42077) and started building. After few hours I've got this blue shark. It is the third piece in my collection of Technic sharks. I built it just for looks so it features only opening maw and moving fins and tail. All is operated manually. I also built simple stand for it so it don't have to lie on its maw. If you want to build it you can download free building instructions from my website buildinst. I just recommend you to use panels without stickers otherwise it would look awful. Any comments or criticism are welcomed.
  21. Technic General Discussion Welcome to the Technic General Discussion topic. Here you can post small questions or comments about Lego Technic which don't need a topic of their own. This way we will keep the number of topics limited. Examples Has anyone built vehicle x? Where can I find this or that? I missed this set on eBay...darn!
  22. Inspired by the Volvo EC750 Excavator with the new Powered Up motors All motors in the rotating platform Tracks with subtractor mechanism and two differentials Tensioner regulated tracks
  23. diegobaca

    Rubber Band Sizes

    Hi Forum, Wanted to get the official word out there regarding rubber band sizes. For the past year I have been purchasing parts from Bricklink (in order to build all Lego Technic Sets). One of the part types I see a lot of inconsistency buying are rubber bands (especially rubber bands for older sets). For example, I have purchased rubber band part: x264 from five different vendors and I have received inconsistent sizes. Some seem to have sent me x137 instead of x264, but I am not really sure. Now I am really confused, and want to get your guys opinion about rubber band sizes and what is considered official (to the best of people's knowledge). I have attached a picture of what I believe are all the sizes used on Lego Technic sets. Let me know if I am missing any rubber band sizes or if these are incorrect. I wonder if x264 is the same as x137 and there are natural size variations? Thank you everyone for their input!
  24. Another month, another model :D This time I come back to agricultural machinery. I built the 150 hp Case 1455 XL tractor and the Bunning Lowlander 105 mk4 manure spreader. For comparison, photos of real machines CASE 1455 XL The tractor is built on the chassis I used in the previous ones. After many tests and delicate modifications, it turned out to be very reliable and solid. In addition, it is very versatile - it allows you to build most tractors in the power range of 140 to 170 km in a 1:17 scale. It have four functions, large motor for driving, servo for steering, medium motor - PTO and medium motor for three-point hitch system. The previous ones, has SBricks for controll the model. This one has two IR recivers. Some of the people buying building instructions asked, if there was a chance to replace the sbrick, so I met the expectations. My favorite element of this model is the hood. It could be a standalone set from the creator series :D Fortunately for me, 1x1 brackets appeared, without them it would not be possible to build it. Bunning Lowlander 105 mk4 The first problem I encountered when trying to build a spreader was the choice of the model itself. They are all divided into high and low frame ones. As I wanted to use agricultural tires, I chose the low frame. I chose the blue Bunning Lowlander. Very nice because it has detailed side boards, a lot of details and interesting colors scheme. In fact, the model is very simple. Its mechanisms are limited to sliding floor chains and spinning shafts. I added a tensioning mechanism for flor chains by using a shock absorber and it works very well. The whole thing looks good and I like it very much. You can find building instructions here: Selfy: Rebrickable: The whole thing, although rather simple, gave me a lot of fun. Especially the spreader. Down below You can find photos and a short video presenting the possibilities of the set.
  25. Hi everyone, this time I want to show you another work-in-progress MOC, but this one is more recent. The reason why I want to do this is quite obvious - LEGO releases their Lambo this year, and I am also aware of at least one Aventador MOC coming soon. We should have even more Lamborghinis, they are awesome and I can't wait to see these models. My version is a dark blue + white model in 1:8 scale with some basic functions: Steering with working steering wheel. Openable scissors doors. 7+R gearbox. Remote control using a single Control+ hub: 2 coupled XL motors for drive; L motor for steering; L motor to change speeds. This time I decided to build everything independantly and simultaniously. It actually helped me to become much more productive. I'll start with the bodywork. It's not completed and is built around a very crude carcass. I'm trying to concentrate on the shape only. There will be enough space on the inside, I'm taking this into account while building. As you see, it's about 60% completed. Front section is not done yet, but the back looks almost completed and I really like how it turned out. Reminds me a "snowboard glasses" a little (don't know how to call them but I'm sure you get what I mean): Of course, these gaps will have black background in the future and I will add some filler to them as well. Rear wing also looks completed, it might be my favorite part of the build, here you can see it from another side: Now I want to show a door closely. I tried to replicate scissors mechanism as closely as I could. First version used shock absorber and was way too big. The proble is that it has to be very close to the front wheel, it's pretty hard to do. Second version required 3 small rubber bands to hold door's weight. On the following photos you will see a third version. This is how it looks being closed: This is the first step of opening when you open it just like a regular car's door: And this is how it looks when you open it in a different plane. It holds itself locked with two rubber bands that you can see at the bottom: Here's a shot from the front with both doors opened. You can see that the door on the right has "old" design, I improved on it already: Next two pictures are showing caliper on the front wheel. I wanted it to be angled just like on the real car so I had to be creative: Yes, this is a sausage piece. Calipers on the rear will also be angled, but with more conventional build. I don't have it right now so the picture will be in one of the following updates. Now car's internals. Here you can see a gearbox and rear wheels. 3 motors are clearly visible. 4th motor will be in front of the hub. The idea is that L motor will change speeds by rotating by 180 degrees, this can be done programmatically rather then mechanically. But it doesn't mean that the build is simple, because it's not. I used only one of those new orange "wave selector" gears, everything else is basically a huge improvement over the gearbox from my LaFerrari MOC, but it's 1.5 times bigger because of that "reverse" speed I added. It's actually pretty fun that I managed to use a 40 tooth gear in this model. I guess I could use 36 + 2x28, but I don't have 28 tooth gears yet: Here's a view of the bottom. A huge con of the model can be seen here - it has no central diff, but still I expect all 4 wheels to be driven. On the other hand, I left a lot of holes so I can see gears turning: This construction is not rigid enough in several points, I think I will have to completely rebuild it and ensure that it is strong enough. It's already pretty smooth and if motors won't be able to handle the weight then I can play with the gear ratios from motors - there are dedicated places in the gearbox for this exact purpose. I hope that it will become a good model and you'll like it. Thank you!