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Found 93 results

  1. Hello, I wanted to introduce myself with a few favorite mocs of mine. I discovered Lego technic a year ago and I love it. I had something similar when I was a kid, called “Constructor”. It was the same principal as technic beams (only the Constructor’s beams were half the width of Lego’s), connectors, plates… and used M4 bolts and nuts to connect instead of bushes. So I built tractors, trucks, cranes, trailers, etc. I started building my creations out of Lego in LDD because I don’t have real Legos, and I enjoy it very much. I built a bunch of them in the last 5 months. So far I published my creations on LDD gallery website, but that site went to shit, so a few days ago I transferred on rebrickable. I very recently discovered this community so I thought I share it here also, with you. Anyway here are my mocs in LDD, I hope that’s ok. Mercedes Actros SLT Mercedes Arocs Crawler V2 Nooteboom Multydolly Nooteboom Euro Low-Loader Mercedes Arocs Timber Truck (mod) Volvo FMX 8x8 MAN Modular Truck Rock Crawler Black Buggy Naked Street Bike So, how did I do?
  2. Hi to all fans of Lego! Today I want to share with you my new work - Rock Rod Rock Rod - it's the crawler, on the construction of which I was inspired by the fierce custom projects from HAUK Designs. Especially, where, no matter how on the crawler to run a fresh RC DC chequered flag STT PRO rubber wheels and BuWizz. At the output was a relatively light on the portal bridges crawler. At the heart of the model is also the philosophy of placing motors on bridges, to reduce the center of gravity and minimize weight and inertia of the body. Technical characteristics of the model: Weight (together with a technic-figure) - 817 g. Number of parts - 617 pcs. Steering - Servo motor Movement - two L motors Power / Control - BuWizz Even the "sofa" trial allows us to understand that additions such as non-standard tires and BuWizz significantly expand the scope of use and possibilities of radio controlled Lego models. It remains to wait until the snow comes down, to ride Rock Rod on the rocks. But you can do this before me, by building the Rock Rod yourself by free video instruction. I plan to test the model in the spring on a severe off-road. I will be very glad to hear from you any advice or wish for the completion of both the technical component of the model and its appearance. Ahead is still half a year :)
  3. Hello All! It is winter time, so I am bit more busy on Legoing. After seeing, that @Didumos69 started his 4x4 buggy project, I looked into a bit deeper the Ultra 4 racing, and the rigs been driven in this extreme events. Finally the video, what I linked to his topic, triggered the work on another MOC: the Ultra 4 buggy. Here is another video to see the interesting bits of independent suspension system on this beast: Still, I might end up with IFS (independent front suspension) and solid axle with torque bar for the rear, but the body is heavily inspired by the Lasernut buggy. Parameters: 2x L motors 1x servo motor AAA battery box - in order to be replace ability with BuWizz in case IR control Let's look at into the progress a bit, maybe it is interesting to read. I started on 28. november with LDD model. To set the proportions, and the body ideas, I usually place the essential parts free in space first. Check the real inspiration thing and the very first sketch: After that I added the electronic parts, to check the necessary minimum space. (Unfortunately has corrupt models, so some cover parts of the motors are just not present.) At this stage, I built the front axle, to see how can I integrate the steering. The answer is: massive fail. So back to drawing table, I deleted the 5x7 frame, and started to figure out, how to connect the needed fixation points for swingarms, servo. Due to this, the model gets more complex than I thought, but buildability is always first! I recommend to check meanwhile IRL building too, or at least stop by and thinking about how to add the related parts. I was hopeing for a simple MOC, but I ended up already a pretty complex assembly, so I made each step with double check. Later on, I will try to add groups in LDD to represent the buildability order too. So far the front module with steering and IFS is ready, the middle module is almost done, I am wondering about interchangable solid axle or independent solution for the rear - not sure yet. Also the color is to be decided yet, as the springs type as well (soft or hard). I think if soft ones will be OK, than I go for white body, as it presents the "rollcage" better. In case the yellow hard shock absorbers will be needed, of course the only choice is: full MEAN black body. This picture shows the advantage of the white body, and also a comparison for tyre types: 3740 on the left, 45982 on the right, both on 56908 wheels. So far 407 parts, and I guess it is about 70-75% ready. I need to figure out how to fix the roof, and create a solid, but easily disconnectable rear module. Necessary parts are ordered, so real build pics might come in couple weeks first. And how is the road presence? I guess it will be pretty much like a punch in the face. p.s.: Yet another WIP, I hope for long winter nights, to finish at least some of my unfinished projects...
  4. My latest MOC, the 4x4 crawler! This was modeled off some 1960/70 pickups, hence it’s boxy look. The goal was to have a powerful drive and a winch, with a release like in 42069 so it can be pulled by hand then engaged. I am happy to say that these goals have been achieved. In the video, the crawler has no trouble driving on ice and frozen grass, and I also made a course out of books to test the crawler indoors. When driving outside, the temperature was -2C. The crawler is powered by 2 L motors, steering by a servo motor as well as engine and winch controlled by M motors. Video: Pictures: Thank you so much for watching and reading! Looking forward to your comments! BbBT
  5. Hey everyone, This MOC is being built for 2 reasons: 1, to celebrate 3 milestones- Canada's 150th anniversary, Technic's 40th anniversary, and me hitting 1000 subscribers on Youtube. In fact, a comment suggested I do this. The second reason is to cure the errors that my 2 previous crawlers had: -weak axles (very weak in fact) -low climbing power -messy building -inefficient steering (used an M motor) -no additional RC functions So here's where I'm at right now: Above is the motor housing. I'm going with 2 L motors for the drive because they have good speed at a sufficient torque. That is the gear housing. Frames are abundant. Now the whole front axle. You can see that it is compact and yet very, very durable. The rear axle. And the two together. This crawler is being built for max performance but awesome looks. So I want to (but may not) do a Tacoma body: Update tomorrow, thanks for reading! BrickbyBrickTechnic
  6. Hi everybody! Thats my new 4x4 rock crawler. So,here it is Specifications: -4 link suspension -portal axles -rc 108 mm tires -3s li-fe battrey -2 buggy motors -1 sbrick I hope you like it Let's see it in action!
  7. Hey Everyone! Here is the successor to my Lego Technic Chili Crawler, the Cactus Crawler It took about half of a year of design and revision to reach its current state, of which I am proud of. THE VIDEO: youtube Features: - 3 L-Motors for drive (two in the rear axle, one in the front) - M-Motor and a small linear actuator for front steering - Rigid, triangulated 4-link suspension for the front axle, with large, soft, black shock absorbers - Extremely rigid 2-link rear suspension with ball-joint pivot point on top of the axle, similar to that found in the RC "Mantis" crawler - 100% Lego-legal custom curved rear links that, with how the main cab is shaped, provide exceptional ground clearance towards the rear of the crawler, allowing it to climb up relatively large vertical structures such as street curbs - Very minimal, light bodywork - BuWizz for extra power and SBrick for a great, custom control scheme Note: By the time I finished designing the cab and it's battery enclosure, BuWuzz had not yet come out with the update for their iOS app that allows a single joystick/slider to control multiple outputs, so I was forced to use an SBrick with the BuWizz, providing the extra power from the BuWizz, but with the ease-of-use and great custom control profiles of the SBrick. When used with the SBrick, the BuWizz does in fact still provide more power than the standard Lego 8878 LiPo battery box. - RC4WD 1.9" Krypton scale tires - Two green pieces so that I can call it the Cactus Crawler ;) LXF hopefully coming soon, the tires can easily be found with a quick google search of their name. YES, I know, there is no body. This is meant for performance, meaning I made the cab as small, light, and rigid as possible. I will be able to reply intermittently throughout the day. I figured I'd put this up now anyway! pt
  8. Hi, This is my latest attempt at building offroad car. Wrangler Trophy by Horcik Designs, on Flickr JEEP Wrangler Expedition by Horcik Designs, on Flickr Introduction and Motivation I built it for the TROPHY, adventurous event and AFOL meeting that is inspired by Camel Trophy series, and was held by (CZ+SK LUG) at 5th August 2017 for the very first time. It was awesome day, and I hope that there will be more. Here is the the official video from the event. There were really great cars there. The car itself The car was built to fit the rules of the competition. That means reserve "fuel" in the car during whole race before refuelling, remote control (no wire connection between truck and controller, S-bricks allowed) and representative appearance. So I decieded to go with the force, and installed two XL motors for the drive, geared down in 3:5 ratio, and two L motors, each for the winch (1:8) and steering (mini LA). I also reduced gearing to the minimum, due to minimal energy-consumption. (I nearly did the whole race to single Li-Po BB) The car is not perfect, it is very heavy (approx. 1500g), so it does not allow to use CV joints in the front axle for smooth wheel rotation. They managed to withstand the race, but in the finish (before the big uphill from the first video) they were strongly damaged, mostly because of big steering angle. Well, I hope that the video will say enough, if you have any questions, feel free to ask me. :) Photos: JEEP Wrangler Expedition by Horcik Designs, on Flickr JEEP Wrangler Expedition by Horcik Designs, on Flickr JEEP Wrangler Expedition by Horcik Designs, on Flickr JEEP Wrangler Expedition by Horcik Designs, on Flickr JEEP Wrangler Expedition by Horcik Designs, on Flickr
  9. Presenting the 8258-B Crawler, Designed and built as an entry for the 'Crawlify your set' contest [AMS1] I'm a huge fan of b-models in general, but the 8258-B has always been one of my favourites due to great looks and an easy to modify. Or so I thought... In the end, I reckon about 85% of the chassis has been custom built. There are two L motors situated just below the cabin. One powers the front axle, one powers the rear. Both axles have differentials because, being independently powered, loss of traction is a lot less likely and it saves my poor pieces from becoming mangled. Because the 8258-B is rather small (read: narrow) I had a lot of trouble designing a front axle that could house a servo motor without limiting the range of suspension travel. Eventually I gave up and ended up modifying this axle to accommodate a differential (well deserved credit to the amazing @Madoca 1977). However with that said, I have made sure the bodywork stays almost 100% true to the original. The only alteration I had to made was to the rear wheelarches to make room for the balloon tyres: Original wheelarch Modified wheelarch: Also, the front winch kept scraping on obstacles I was trying to climb over so I switched this out for a bullbar, however the two are easily interchangeable. Anyways, here's a video of this thing in action. As always, please let me know what you think. Whether it's praise, criticism or telling me off for building ANOTHER red and black model (I have other colours, I swear!!), I'd love to hear it. More images can be found in this bricksafe folder. Enjoy =)
  10. I decided to open a seperate topic for this beast. Inspired by Letsbuild's idea to crawlify a Lego set, i decided to go full crazy and try to upgrade the biggest, heaviest and most orange set to date, Porsche 911 GT3 RS. First thing I built was the front axle, which uses the H frame as a placeholder for bewel gear, so there it no possible way of them to slip: Those with sharp eyes may notice the gears are not aligned, this was done in LDD development mode, more info soon The drive than goes directly to portal hubs with 1:3 gear ratio, giving the model 1:5 gear ratio on each wheel. Front axle also has a servo motor which steers the wheels and powers the Porsche's original steering wheel via a ball joint Rear axle powers the Porsche's gearbox via a couple of clutch gears in order to allow different motor speeds when steering or skid steering - Yes, this 4 kilogram heavy model can even skid steer thanks to its independent motor control. Here is the end result As with the original set, I kept the rear axle 2 studs wider than the front: For suspension I used 4 hard springs, which are hald compressed thanks to the model's immense weight. Due to the porsche's wide chassis springs are quite far apart, so the flex angle is not really big, but on the other hand that makes the model much more stable. Performance wise the crawler works very good, despite its massive weight, so far I had no broke U joints or gears and it has enough torque to skid its wheels on hard surface. Expect more pictures soon and a video soon.
  11. Hello all, I have a few questions regarding the use of 2 L-motors for powering a crawler. I have done some research and have not been able to find many MOCs that use L-motors for drive, does anyone have any advice on using them instead of 2 XL motors for drive. I know the torque output will be less with the L-motors but the overall speed will be quicker. If geared properly couldn't a L-motor be able to closely match an XL motor, but spin faster? Netting me more of a buggy type of crawler instead of a pure crawler? Also if I were to use L-motors I can keep the overall size of my axles smaller. One of the downsides is the power draw from the 2 L-motors will be too much for a Lipo battery setup, correct? I'm building some custom axles in LDD and cannot make up my mind which way I should go with my PF, XL drive or L drive motors. I have designs for both size motors, any advice or experience would be welcome, thank you!
  12. Good day! This thing was made for a 1vs1 competition , the goal is to modify a set into a crawler. I decided to as small as I could, so I took my 42027 and slammed a bunch of PF parts into it. Specs: 1x m-motor for 4x4 drive 1x m-motor for steering 1x IR receiver 1x battery box Video: Photos (click for full size): Althought some things could've been done better , I'm quite happy with it.
  13. Totally inspired by Sariel's Mini Cooper videos, I present 42043: Crawler edition! Features 4x4 drive and steering while retaining the functionality of the cabin. Thanks so much for checking it out! C&C PLEASE! BrickbyBrick
  14. Wished I posted this sooner......... When I was originally had the model normal it couldn't go over an half inch actual brick tile :(. Due to that I spent a long time modifying it to barely go through grass about as tall as the pretend sticker grill. This thing can go over an emaxx tire with its 2 not one xl motors and it had an l motor for steering (only do if your not using 3rd party tires) if using 3rd party tire use an xl motor for steering (I only had 2). I'm now building a a25E tanker to spray weed killer for me so I don't need to sweat to death. Since its super easy to detach the bed I could be able to switch the tanker and soon changed bed be swappable maybe? Picture from very first successful time. Version 1.0 instructions: Video as just a quick demo of some average grass: This is what I'm building while doing Ingmar Spijkhoven 6x6 truck and stay tuned!
  15. 6x6 truck VS

    just made a truck similar with Mr. Madoca's new moc work same function on differencial lock and 2 speed gearbox,but 6x6 -Weight: g -2 XL motors for propulsion,1 XL for 1st axle,1XL for 2nd、3rd axle -2 Servo motor for steering,1st & 3rd axle -M motor for 2 speed gearbox -M motor for locking rear differential,1st axle - 2nd、3rd axle -Portal axles for 1st、3rd axle in order to make a powerful crawler, I need different rotating speed of front and rear axle. For the reliability, I not use the weak center differential. I design 2 seperate XL motors for 1st axle and 2nd+3rd axle. But I add a lock, to lock the 2 XL motors together when necessary. That means there are 2x 2speed gearbox + 1 lock. And to make sure the enough power, I add 2 battery boxs.
  16. Hello! My latest MOC is a re-creation of unusual Jeep model. Jeep Mighty FC Concept -Weight: 2125g -2 XL motors for propulsion -Servo motor for steering -M motor for 2 speed gearbox -M motor for locking rear differential -M motor for winch -3 LEDs for front and rear lights -2 SBricks powered by one rechargeable battery box -Portal axles -Openable doors and tailgate -Shallow bed with fold-down sides -Detachable roof -Alternative tube doors The chassis is not realistic, but has decent offroad capability as heavy Lego model. My goal was to make a sturdy and powerful crawler having propulsion motors and gearbox on the center of its chassis. Which means the drivetrain contains two universal joints - weakest points - for transmitting the torque to front and rear live axles. To save U-joints from damaging, I adopted two stage reductions after differential on both axles. The gearbox is similar one to my previous FJ40 Crawler. I doubled the pair of 8T/24T gear for higher durability. High gear is three times faster than low gear. You may wonder why rear ball joint is connected lower than front. That is for avoiding body roll caused by high torque of hard-coupled XL motors. Seeing from the gearbox, the rear output rotates in opposite direction to the front one. So the front and rear axle are equally forced to rotate in opposite direction to each other. Thus the center chassis with heavy body does not easily roll left or right even when climbing steep incline. ( least on paper. I admit the complete body is a little bit too heavy to prove the theory above.) Steering angle is good, but turning radius is not so good. Because of the lack of center differential, it cannot handle different rotating speed of front and rear axle in tight turning. On slippy surface, like in the video, it can be steered without any problem. Rear differential can be locked instantaneously. The role of 8T gear on top of red changeover part is to make a tiny gap between 16T clutch gear and driving ring in locked position. Thanks to the gap, 16T gear is not pushed against outer structure. That helps to decreasing the friction. Front winch is powered by M motor geared 9:1. I used two pairs of 8T/24T gear instead of worm gear. It is smoother and surprisingly powerful. The hook can be manually pulled out by switching the lever under right seat. The body looks a bit squarish comparing to the real Mighty FC. Maybe I could replicate trapezoidal shape of its cabin. But I thought angled pillars and roll cage would be wobbly. So I decided to build simple yet sturdy. Instead of realistic appearance, I managed to realize easily detachable roof and doors. Although the whole MOC is built for using Unimog tires, Claas tires also fit well. But the maximum articulation of axles would be smaller because bigger tires possibly touch the chassis and fenders. It would be necessary to limit suspension travel or slightly modify the chassis. I hope you will like it! I will make building instruction. But I have to finish the instruction of Pickup first.
  17. Lego Technic – Liebherr LR624 Litronic Crawler Loader Features A medium-class Crawler Loader work machine produced by Liebherr. İf 2008 Product design award. Generation 4 Liebherr crawler loaders provide exceptional han dling performance even in diffi cult terrain. Fast work cycles, an optimum bucket capacity and outstanding machine handling under load give them optimum operating properties. - Full Function Remote Controlled. Activate the double remote-controlled Power Functions motors for powerful, simultaneous driving and digging action – just like the real machine! -Includes the following Lego® Power Functions components: 2 large motor, 2 medium motor, a battery box, 2 remote controls and 2 infrared receivers -High Detail Kokpit. Operator Seat, Control Joysticks, Control Panel, Hand Brake, Fire extinguisher and Hot Coffee. -High Detail Exterior, Doors that can be opened and closed. To remove the battery box, the back hood can be easily opened. Illuminations, Grids,Stickers. -Total 1434 Parts -All Original Lego® Technic style design.
  18. G'day from Australia everyone! This is my first topic created on Eurobricks and my first serious MOC since the end of my "dark age". I'm seriously super glad to be here and keen to share my Technic creations with you all from now onward. With this in mind, if there's any way I can improve how/what I post, by all means let me know so I can keep everyone (including staff) content. I am committed to giving this site the full respect it deserves. :) As a few of you have suggested, it's a good idea when coming out of your dark age to develop designing/building skill by drawing on other people's MOCs for inspiration and guidance for different building techniques... Partially inspired by SevenStuds' recreation of Tim Cameron's rock bouncer "Showtime", I present my own 4x4 Rock Bouncer. Features.. Drive: 2 PF XL motors (1 per axle). Final ratio is 3:1. Steering: 1 PF Servo motor with rack and pinion Suspension/axles: Full-time locked solid live axles with portal hubs (geared 3:1), suspended by 9.5L shock absorber (soft) (2 per axle) and stabilized by a double triangulated four-link setup. Tires: Third party scale RC tires similar to the "Rock Crusher" by RC4WD. Battery: 1 x PF AA battery box Receiver: 1 x PF V2 I initially began designing some kind of rock crawler which was to include PF XL motors, third party tires of some description and (after quite a while researching suspension design) double triangulated four-link suspension. This kind of suspension is ideal as it provides maximum articulation and strength of the axle while eliminating the requirement for a Panhard Bar or Watts Linkage because the triangular positioning of the upper and lower control arms oppose each other, eliminating sway and allowing all desirable movement. By far the most difficult part of designing was the requirement for a steering shaft which moved harmoniously with the suspension cycle of the front axle. Because the upper control arms are shorter than the lower ones, the angle of the axle relative to the chassis changes through it's cycle and this means that when positioning the steering shaft, it must be such that the radius of it's motion doesn't change (due to angle change) as TLG doesn't offer any part which works purposely as a slip joint to negotiate the effect of plunge. After many, many, many... many attempts, a sweet spot was discovered which offered a negligible discrepancy. (This was a happy moment). It's biggest performance drawback would have to be that when the angle of climb and drive torque applied is too great, the rear lower control arms buckle and the rear axle begins to walk under the chassis. Trust me, it's cringe-worthy. With 15L beams instead of 16L links and consequently different suspension geometry, however, this could be resolved. The turning circle also suffers due to the wheel base. Overall, I am reasonably happy with the final product as it is capable of most of the things I intended it to be and in my opinion, the body could look worse. ;) I unfortunately don't have video footage, but I do have photos (see below). Enjoy! All comments welcome. :D
  19. How about that little cross between mud and go on the rocks? Crawler 4x4 always ready for it! Still would! Its wheels are shod with tires RC Rock Crusher X/T 1.9, coupled with portal axles and two motors running by SBrick and LiPo battery box - we have an off-roader with excellent maneuverability, suspension geometry and a low center of gravity due to the unsprung axles. Crawler 4x4 built under the rules of the forthcoming Off-road trial competition in Moscow, at the same time. I tried to build the chassis in such a way as to achieve maximum throughput and maximum flexibility - namely, so this chassis can set the wheels of virtually any size from 62 to 108 mm. The body of the model removable. This allows the chassis to this every body, even though the truck, even an SUV. Get more photos on my blog of flickr
  20. Here is my entry into the contest a tracked dumper with crane. Based off a Morooka/Terramac style crawler carrier platform. Planned Features - Pneumatic Dump Bed - Pneumatic Crane - Detailed Track System - Detailed Cab/Engine Compartment - Pneumatic Pump driven by M-Motor Build Progress Here are some photos of the undercarriage: The dump platform is based off the MB Arocs, but will be further modded to fit this build. Here is a mock up of the crane, based off MB Arocs/effermanns modded design. This will be changed almost completely since it is too large. The crane and dump section need to be redone since they copy an already built design. I just wanted to see how scale and function would work on the tracks. The track design took me a while to figure out since this is my first creation in Technic. I want it to be somewhat modular to help with installing Pneumatics. More to come...
  21. Hello all! I make it after fail Porsche. My first crawler for future competitions: 4x4, moving by 2 l-motors, 2 differentials, steering by m-motor, eazy access to battery block. And video: More photos on my flickr:
  22. Hi everybody! Today I present to you my first experience of construction Trial Truck! During this year I was looking for your ideal 4x4 chassis. And in the end I came to this building. In the final, which turned this freak on 4 wheels medium size range (80-82 mm). The main idea of ​​this project was the task of the displacement of the center of gravity down and forward is not at the expense of detail, as well as the compulsory use of the portal gears on both axes for high permeability and stability of large CG. The power installation in the form of two twin L motors located in the rear axle, where through the reduction gear torque is distributed to the axle gears back and forth, and then the rotation of spreads on all wheels through a gantry gearboxes. This arrangement limits the transverse rear axle moves up one degree of freedom. Yes, the rear wheels are posted on the obstacles, but discomfort on the track it does not deliver. Servo motor for steering is mounted on the front axle, which also lowers the CG and the sprung mass model. Power - LiPo, management - Sbrick. Number of pieces - 875 pieces Weight - 950 grams More photos you can find on my flickr and blog
  23. [Previous Post: ] Hi, guys: Name's Mun and I am new to this forum. Thought it would be great to introduce my self and post my very 1st technic creation. The suspension bogie is copied from "Nico 71" and everything else is my very 1st attempt :P Any suggestion or comment will be appreciated. Thanks ! [updates:] Haven't started working on my transmission yet since I am experiencing some delay with my orders. However I do have some updates for you : P I will let the video do the talking. Some thoughts: 1. Will switch to a lighter colour (probably light green) at the end of this project since there're still a lot things need to be changed. 2. Will use this as a platform and build all different kinds of mechanisms on the rear "cargo module".
  24. Hello. I am relatively new to LEGO and very new to Technic. I am particularly interested in the challenges presented by building rock crawlers. My first build was JJ2's 4x4 Super Cralwer V1, which was very rewarding. SevenStuds then kindly directed me to Yoraish's Little Boy Rock Crawler as an instructive build, which it certainly has been. Having just completed it, I have a number of questions that I have not been able to satisfactorily work out for myself and am hoping to benefit from community wisdom. (I am using a rechargeable battery and a V2 IR receiver, along with the original 2 XL motors for driving and the M motor for steering. I am also using very cheap tyres that approximate Pro-Line Flat Iron 1.9" tyres as a test before forking out for the real ones.) I understand, I think, that you might choose to use a M motor (or a L motor?) for steering if (a) you don't have a Servo motor, or (b) have space constraints and/or (c.) require greater torque. Are there any other circumstances where you would use a M or L motor for steering over a Servo motor? I tried using a Servo motor instead of the M motor and it does not turn the wheels at all, although it attempts to. I assume that this means that it does not have enough torque? In Sariel's book, he mentions that the Servo motor has "huge torque" and so "won't be easily stalled" (p. 169). The M motor, however, easily turns the wheels. ​Does this mean that the M motor has significantly more torque than the Servo motor (Sariel's book doesn't appear to give the torque for the Servo motor, or if it does I missed it) If so, are there any circumstances where you would/could use a Servo motor for steering a crawler and how would you decide this other than trial and error? Yoraish's has the Little Boy doing some pretty extreme crawling (at least it seems so to me) with little difficulty. I find it difficult to tackle a pillow in my lounge without it sounding like something is going to break while steering and have, in fact, managed to pop a wheel off (I experienced the same difficulties with the Super Crawler, which JJ2 kindly helped me to address). I gather that the M motor just keeps turning until you stop (but that unlike the Servo motor does not return to centre when released); this sounds distressing and seems like it could cause actual damage. Is there any way to overcome this? I ask because I and my son - 2 and 1/2 - find it difficult to concentrate on negotiating obstacles due to concerns about damaging something and/or bits popping off. Perhaps it requires greater skill than I/we have at steering? Sorry if I have not asked this particular question well. Many thanks, Darryl and Reuben P.S. I think/hope I have done the images correctly. P.P.S. Any other recommendations for refining this build would also be appreciated (DLuders was very helpful in devloping the initial thread - many thanks).