Madoca 1977

Eurobricks Citizen
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About Madoca 1977

  • Birthday 09/22/1977

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  1. Will you be moving your moc plans

  2. Madoca 1977

    [MOC] Toyota Land Cruiser 80

    At first I thought putting fourth gear into differential would prevent gear skipping because of tighter meshing than three bevel gears. But I noticed that floating fourth gear was just lying on two inner bevel gears, which means there would be no tighter meshing between them. Then I realized that the point was not the fourth gear but inserting a piece (with pin hole) between two inner bevel gears. That piece can hold both axles almost in line. (Of course it also prevents gears sliding inwards.) Thus, inner three gears would hardly disengaged. ...At least on paper. Actually higher XL torque broke the theory. But I think it is still a better way to reinforce 4L differential. Also 1L technic brick is better than 1L liftarm because its slightly thicker and square shape leaves less room around it.
  3. Madoca 1977

    [MOC] Toyota Land Cruiser 80

    You always give me inspirations. Especially I like the way of pure technic (without slack) building. Thank you for sharing great ideas! In this case, I used a shock absorber instead of rubber bands for 90 degree stepper.
  4. Hello everyone! It has been a while since I last posted on this forum. In November I tripped to Russia again for participating LEGO event held in Moscow. This year, my friend Rm8 gave me the opportunity to make video review of my models together at his studio. You might have seen the review of Jeep Wranglers. And this is the other model that I first had a presentation to Russian builders in the event. Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Weight: 1520g -XL motor for propulsion -Servo motor for steering -M motor for front winch -M motor for two speed gearbox and center/rear differential lock -LEDs for front and rear lights Everything started from the issue of center differential in the drivetrain of my previous Pickup. After driving on serious off-road I found that bevel gears in center differential got damaged and often slipped. So I tried to find the way to reinforce gear meshing in 4L differential. In conclusion, I still have not succeeded. Every attempt was not strong enough for transmitting the torque of geared down (3:1) XL motor. In extreme situation floating fourth bevel gear was pushed out by the force of twisting differential housing. I was even hoping new red 4L differential could hold four bevel gears tightly in it, but it does not. So I used the second one in the picture above. (just insert 1L technic brick for holding both side of axles tighter) While attempting several ideas of transmission, I was building another 4x4 model using three differentials. Eventually it became the most advanced version of my SUV models yet being over complex and less reliable. The main feature is sequentially working gearbox and diff lock system. I used Didumos69's Compact 90 degree stepper idea for switching four modes. (0→1→2→3→0 ...) 0: high gear 1: low gear 2: low gear with center diff lock 3: low gear with center/rear diff lock You can see it working in the second half of this video filmed by Rm8. I used M motor instead of Servo motor for switching modes because there was no space for it under the driver's seat. It is necessary to stop motor rotation when stepper axle comes to the right position. Actually this model is too heavy for real off road driving. Center differential often suffered the load, and it was a little bit tricky to operate sequential mechanism precisely from a distance. So I built a lighter and simplified version only using XL and Servo motor. It has softer rear suspension, manual gearbox and center/rear limited slip differential. (Weight: 1260g) Ironically it worked better than fully equipped version even lacking diff lock system. Thanks to soft suspension it has better axle articulation. All four tires well kept contact with the ground. I put it on rocky surface just for taking pictures. Actually it could not climb over those rocks, though. I am making building instructions for both versions. I hope you will like it!
  5. Madoca 1977

    Lego Gaz 34 soviet truck

    The performance is amazing! And the way you used actuators is very clever. I've never seen like this before.
  6. Luckily I often see this car in my hometown because I'm in Japan. Even though it was designed 30 years ago, it still looks very cool especially among modern rounded shaped hybrid cars. You captured every details even in small scale with Technic parts! Thanks for sharing! By the way, my current private car is peaceful FWD Mazda 2. I've never tried drifting cars.
  7. Madoca 1977

    [MOC] Jeep Wrangler

    Sure it looks better using 4L axle. But, as Paul pointed out, it won't be capable of tough offroad driving. I wish LEGO would produce at least 4.4L axle with stop.
  8. Madoca 1977

    [MOC] Jeep Wrangler

    I do remember your trial trucks using linked suspension! Mine is much smaller, lighter and unstable. When climbing steep slope, the front section of the Jeep lose weight. Then the force of twisting front axle by motors lift the front section sideways. That makes the model rolling to the side easily. Connecting modern steering wheel hubs to C-frame (with differential) made front axle inevitably bulky. I chose U-joints rather than wheel hub because of simplicity and higher ground clearance. Of course there might be another solution using old (small) wheel hub like this beautiful Jeep. But I wanted to avoid using discontinued parts. Besides, I liked unusual idea of using actuator holder together with C-shaped pin connector.
  9. Madoca 1977

    [MOC] Jeep Wrangler

    The move of front axle does not affect steering angle. Wheels could be used inside-out. That would be narrower looking, but 5.5 axles were sticking out to much. For those who can cut axles or use non-official parts, putting wheels inside-out is better way.
  10. Madoca 1977

    [MOC] Jeep Wrangler

    Thanks! The truth is, I remembered your Jeep Lower Forty and used your technique in a smaller scale.
  11. Madoca 1977

    [MOC] Jeep Wrangler

    Hello everyone! This is another Jeep which I built while leaving some unfinished projects on the shelf. For three months I have had no time for LEGO mainly because of my nursing job. (Did you see Wolverine taking care of Professor X in the movie "Logan"? I do something like that ) I really needed to take a new step forward for my motivation. Instructions of former two MOCs are still work in progress. I am sorry to keep you waiting. Jeep Wrangler Weight: around 1100g (with hardtop) -2 L motors for propulsion -M motor for steering -Front and rear open differential -Linked pendular suspension without shock absorbers -Openable hood, doors and tailgate with lock -LED for headlights -Detachable body The chassis is not realistic at all. It was new to me to build the suspension without using shocks. It even doesn't have sway bars. Suspension travel is long enough for this scale. It worked fine when driving over small obstacles. But on a steep incline (40+ degrees), it became unstable and tended to roll over sideways. That move was understandable because it had no anti-roll mechanism. I tried to put the battery box close to the center as possible for better weight distribution. Passenger seat was sacrificed for it, but the whole model with hard top is still slightly rear-heavy. Jeep Wrangler is known as one of the most modifiable vehicle on earth. So I made a few options such as 2-piece hardtop, tube doors, bumpers and another color scheme. But the best way is building more realistic chassis for this body. Unfortunately I could not make it this time. Maybe in the future... Building instructions for red version with those options above available at Rebrickable. I hope you will like it!
  12. Madoca 1977

    6x6 truck VS

    Will you post the video or picture of underside view? I do want to know how to lock differentials.
  13. Madoca 1977

    [MOC] Jeep Mighty FC Concept

    I am not sure if I could explain correctly... See the picture below and check the video 1:40~1:46. 8T gear is just for making tiny space. When diff locked, red changeover part is positioned almost vertically, but not exactly vertical because of the space made by a tooth of 8T gear. Which means red driving ring is not fully pushed against DBG 16T clutch gear. That means DBG 16T clutch gear is not pushed against outer liftarm. So, 8T gear could be replaced with any other parts of same diameter.
  14. Madoca 1977

    [MOC] Jeep Mighty FC Concept

    Thanks! Actually Unimog tire is close to the right size on this scale. I know it looks like "lifted" because fenders are too far from tires. But I left that space on purpose for better suspension travel. Bigger tire makes the space shorter like the real model. I think that is why oversized tires (last photo) looks rather similar to real Jeep.
  15. Madoca 1977

    [MOC] Jeep Mighty FC Concept

    Thank you, everyone! Maybe I made a mistake. Obviously bigger tires look better. Fortunately the drivetrain was capable of crawling with 107mm tires. So It would be possible using same chassis, big tires, and different body.