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Found 466 results

  1. Hi! My mod of set 75200! I added 166 new parts! I built the back of the house, changed training section, and few more details List of parts https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ZRykfYPrTk4azn-3aFCh9C_j6O46HTOP Check how it works on my Youtube - with tutorial! What do you think? :)
  2. Hello, I start this topic to share with all my work with Lego : MOD MOC Reproducing your MOC Bargain on buying/selling The Lego convention I participated on To begin, please find a MOD of the mystery machine. I modified this nice and gentle van into a Carmaggedon version : I like the thumbler tyres, they fit very well to the Mystery Machine ! Hope you enjoy
  3. My friend made an RC-mod of the 42076 B-model but is to lazy to post it, so here i am, doing it for him and you guys He raised the chassis 1 stud and all the parts fitted without any great modification. He said it felt as if the chassis was designed to be modded this way Here are some pictures: I like how well the receiver fits in there:
  4. Since I saw the official pics for the set, i decided that, I must mod the shoulder area. I know there are a lot of cool mods and rebuilds of the set, but I like keep the sets in original form as possible. The overall design of the Hulkbuster was good looking and sturdy, but the gaps at the shoulder bothered me much. Those gaps are there to give space for 360 degree movement of the arms. After the instructions of the set become available, I build it in LDD and then I started to change the build.Mostly I just took out some parts, but it has greatly improved the look. Guide to the Modification: Required Patrs: For this simple mod you only need this 3 parts. For the black arms you could use the outriders arms, because the don't need 6 arms, I think. 1. The mod is begins with disassembly. You need to take off the upper part of the body and the right arm. 2. To get the arms closer to the body you need to leave out the black gears and to change the axle. Than you could take back this arm and take out the another arm. The left arm is on a shorter axle, so you just need to take out the gear. 3. Next comes the upper part. You need to take out curved pieces from the top and the layer of black plates to make it 1 plate high lower. Then you should swap the to black L plate with the gray 1x4, for sturdier connection. 4. Because the height reduction the minifig should stand lower to let the dome close, so you need to take out the 1x2 plate from under the standing piece. 5.Last thing, you could take the 2x2 transparent blue cylinder out to reduce the size of the wheel, which operates the arm. The bashing-arm function is still working after the mod, but it's a bit limited in motion by the shoulder armor. You should be careful with it because you could accidentally knock off those parts, if you raise the arm to high. Fixing the arm with the wheel on the back is workig still too and then you coud posing the arms. After this mod here is our extra parts left: Comparison: I hope you like this small modification.
  5. Hi all, I've modified the y wing so that there is retractable landing gear. The design is similar to the on on the UCS y wing. To add the landing gear you will have to remove the shooter underneath I feel like the landing gear makes the whole model stand up higher and looks a lot better. What do you think?
  6. Kozikyo86

    [MOD] 75202 V-4X-D Ski Speeder

    Hi, my MOD of new Lego Star Wars set from The Last Jedi - 75202 Defense of Crait. My version is shorter by 4 studies, has better proportions. Currently, the project exists only in LDD. Tell me what you think about this, and if many people want a instruction for this, I try to prepare something.
  7. Anonknee Muss

    Purist Green Lantern Mod

    "In brightest day, in blackest night, No evil shall escape my sight. Let those who worship evil's might Beware my power Green Lantern's light!" After seeing the new lantern piece, I thought to myself "What's stopping me from putting different colours in the lantern?" Nothing is. Then that's where the lightbulb lit up like fireworks on 4th of July: Green Lantern's Lantern! I like the lantern from the 2015 set; the designers did very god work with the old lantern considering the scale and the pieces they had available back in 2015. However, with the addition of the new piece I feel it looks a better scale than 2015. Honest opinions are appreciated and welcome. Expect to see some more photos soon
  8. PriorMarcus

    My Hulkbuster UCS MOD

    Here's my MOD of the Hulkbuster UCS set. Hope you all like.
  9. TheBrickLord

    Justice League Flying Fox Moc/Mod

    After seeing images of the Flying Fox, as seen in the upcoming Justice League film, I was very excited to see what Lego's rendition of it would look like. Sadly, I was somewhat disappointed. The build is sturdy, which is a great thing, however, it was also quite ugly and inaccurate. I picked the set up after my birthday, and was pleasantly surprised. It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Steppenwolf's head and torso molds are accurate and intricately detailed, and the Flying Fox itself was surprisingly fun to build. As soon as I built it, I knew I would modify it. I have already modified the Batmobile and Steppenwolf, and they look great. So, I would like advice for the Flying Fox. I know there aren't many pictures of it, but the overall design has been revealed. Hopefully we will get some great shots of it during the movie, but we do have a few images. So, here's what I want to build: About 1.5 to 2 times bigger than the original set A spacious and large interior, with room for the Batmobile and a command center for the League A lever-activated feature (ideally using a rubber band) that will launch the Batmobile out of the Fox A small 2nd floor command center that hangs above the Batmobile, with computers and a chair Front and back hatches that can open easily, but can be held in place A cockpit that opens up with room for most of the League Wings (see below) with spring loaded shooters, and large engines Lots of angles to make it look interesting I have an excess amount of black pieces, so I don't have many limitations for building. Any suggestions would be amazing! Thanks for your time!
  10. Yes, it's an airplane that can drift! (or rather do doughnuts) But first, I think the video is the best introduction: Cool, isn't it? I was actually very surprised how well it worked when I first tested it - especially considering how bad my previous MODs were.. (in fact, it's probably the only RC set MOD that I've done that worked at all!) It was quite a challenge to fit all the electrics in such a small body, and was actually the main reason why I only kept one of the original functions... Features: Steering - powered by PF servo. Drive - geared down 3:5 from fast output of buggy motor. Motorized wings (not RC) - powered by PF M-motor. Easy to remove battery box - if not using rechargeable battery. Other Specs: Weight: 650g (with rechargeable battery) Original functions kept: 1 (out of 3) Theoretical top speed: 14km/h (at least) Links: YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pTW9vclg0c Bricksafe: https://www.bricksafe.com/pages/mocbuild101/9394-rc-dragster-mod Contest voting: https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/162664-ams-2-dragify-your-set-voting More photos: Enjoy! And don't forget to vote!
  11. Well, i was proud of it at the time, but i feel now that my ISD isn't sufficient enough. Numerous add ons and additions have made the model a bit unstable and the inaccuracies need to be addressed. The main issue however is the disproportional build! The bridge is too large and wide compared to the rest of the body, and it lacks the correct amount of hangers and indents in the panels. This is all a result of me following along the structure of set 6211, which focused on an interior, messing up the proportions. I talk about it in the original post: Now however i start from scratch, and you guys get to follow on and give out suggestions! It starts now with the gathering of extra parts and deconstructing the original destroyer. The plan is to make it bigger, more sturdy and more accurate. Got to gather up all available reference material for this beast... Last photo of it intact. Major sections now removed. I plan to keep the bridge the same, perhaps with some slight corrections. However the rest needs to be broken up and sorted... Now people can see the frame of the build, and the messy interior...
  12. Hey guys, sorry I haven't posted in a while. I've had the clips to make this video for 2 months now, but not enough time to edit. Anyhow, with that said, here's what I have done. I have rebuilt both of the rear axles so they can be driven by 2 L-Motors, and rebuilt the front axle so that it can be steered by a servo, and still be able to fit an engine and have room in the cab for other motors. I also rebuilt the front of the truck since it seemed too sparse to me, but I've left the rest of the truck (besides some of the internals) original. I decided I only wanted to use a single Sbrick, and I had only one port left, since there was already an M-Motor in the model to drive the functions connected to the distribution gearbox, so I built a custom sequential shifter that I could fit in the cab, and access the axles of the changeover catches in the gearbox, and thus shift through the functions sequentially. This is done with one M-Motor. All of the internal mechanics of the gearbox were left stock, besides the elimination of any white 24 tooth clutch gears. I did not change the rest of the model that much, though I did think having an inline-4 seemed kind of lame, so I put in a V8 instead. i will not release any instructions due to the extense of the modifications. Please enjoy the video and photos below, and feel free to leave a reply!
  13. After getting an almost complete MTT 7662 set, I started building and as some bricks were missing, I also started modifying. It is a very nice set, with a nice size. It has become a bit obsolete by today's construction standards but it remains impressive. I thus decided to slightly improve it and remove a few other details that were buggering me. MTT (Multi-Troop Transport) by Veynom, on Flickr I decided to eradicate apparent studs and make this MTT stud-less. I wanted also to improve the bottom part of the transport as well as the various opening panels. MTT (Multi-Troop Transport) by Veynom, on Flickr Details have been added here and there as a kind of subtle greebling. MTT (Multi-Troop Transport) by Veynom, on Flickr The rear upper side has been rounded and more in line with the source material. The ending result is more massive. The front side also got a new lifting and some colouring alignment. MTT (Multi-Troop Transport) by Veynom, on Flickr The rear side is probably my favourite part. A detailed bumper highlights the model, the opening hatch is more realistic and detailed. Curves have been slightly tiles, smoothed and/or underlines. MTT (Multi-Troop Transport) by Veynom, on Flickr Of course, I made sure that all play features were maintained. Everything can be opened as before but when closing the panels, gaps have been minimised. MTT (Multi-Troop Transport) by Veynom, on Flickr And as a last picture, here is a field picture with my 7662 flanked by the more recent 75058 version. MTT in the field by Veynom, on Flickr I find it pretty as a lorry. :)
  14. Well I finally unearthed the old girl from my east coast repository (my brother’s house) and yes by the yellowing of the white, you can tell she has been displayed for a few years on my shelf. I built this around 2000, but I only know this by the use of the bent studless liftarms that I had just gotten when I built her, and those came out in 2000. Here is the list of my modifications/functions. See my Flickr pages for lots more photos and close ups. I didn’t have time to take any video. Electric proportional 4 wheel power steering Electric drop top convertible - operated by switch on dashboard Electric micro motor controlled spoiler- operated by switch on dashboard Pneumatic ride height adjustment- from switch in center console utilizing: Front - shock mount point adjusted to maximize suspension travel Rear - pneumatic spring compression to maximize traction Opening doors with internal and external handle/latch Supercharger - belt driven Intercoolers Working brake pedal and brake lights ( no real brakes ) Fiber optic ignition with real timing (simple firing order) Improved body styling and stretched wheelbase. Only original function lost was HOG steering, but since the steering wheel was now proportionally electric controlled, you could steer and push from the steering wheel with no problem with the top down. Hope you enjoy! Joke mode on- And just a note, I am not really looking for any criticism unless you have been doing this since 2000 or 2001 and can remember having to try and add all these features and functions using what we had at the time. Joke mode off-
  15. Hello everyone. This is my modification of the truck vith container trailer. It is RC with power functions. 1 servo motor for steering 1 M motor for driving it is simply very cute to me and just fantastic to drive with this litle cute truck. and one simple video That's all for now. Best regards, Valter
  16. Fenghuang0296

    Converting 76108 into a proper Modular?

    So, if you consider the way that 76108 Battle for the Sanctum Sanctorum is designed, it's pretty clear that it was intended to be easy(ish) to convert into a Modular Building. After all, Modulars, as a rule of thumb, have more or less eight studs of space on their footpaths, and if you arrange the Sanctum in its corner formation so that each side wall is flush with the edge of a baseplate, you are conveniently left with eight studs. Add that to it being exactly three storeys tall, and the fact that it can be reconfigured to function as a 32-stud-long facade, as well as fitting perfectly with official Modulars in corner formation . . yeah, this thing is a Modular Building in disguise. Therefore, I am opening the floor to any who wants to share advice or strategies as to how to convert it into a proper Modular Building. There are . . okay, there are bad ideas, but very few! So, who's feeling inspired? (Also, I figured that since this is discussing primarily Modular Buildings, it ought to go in the town section . . sorry if this should be in Licensed!)
  17. Nothing too ambitious here, but I wanted Beetlejuice to be able to ride his sandworm from the new Dimensions pack, so I whipped up a few mods. Essentially, I added a connection point for a figure, extended the sandworm body so that the figure could be positioned at a good angle, added a fin to the body, and placed it all atop a sturdy base. Oh, and I gave Beetlejuice his cowboy hat to brandish -- because he's all about the showmanship!
  18. The Twi&'lek Bombshell by Veynom, on Flickr The Twi’lek Bombshell The Twi’lek Bombshell is a Slayn & Korpil B/SF-17 Starfortress heavy bomber belonging to the Cobalt Squadron of the Resistance movement against the First Order. This bomber is immediately recognizable through its distinctive nose art. Indeed, a ferocious dune lizard mouth is painted on the nose under the cockpit canopy, but the most noticeable part is a striking blue-skinned Twi’lek female sitting on a heavy bomb and painted on the bomber downward wing. Some people reported this was some kind of tribute to the defunct Jedi Master Ayla Secura. However, several other sources indicate this Twi’lek was only one of the numerous one-night bomb-run of one of the crewmen. Mystery will remain as the Twi’lek Bombshell was destroyed – and all of its crew killed – during the bombing mission on Q’Dar resulting in the destruction of the Mandator IV-class Siege Dreadnought Fulminatrix of the First Order Some archives could be retrieved. On one of them, we can see the Twi’lek Bombshell flying alongside another Starfortress from Crimson Squadron. This photo was probably taken shortly before its last run as 8 bombing kill marks can be seen and resistance records indicate the raid against the Fulminatrix would have been the 9th one. The Twi'lek Bombshell in space by Veynom, on Flickr Another picture shows the Twi’lek Bombshell during a bombing mission above what looks like a First Order cruiser of some kind. This one cannot be the Fulminatrix as we know all but one S/BF-17 were destroyed before reaching it. The Twi'lek Bombshell on a bombing run by Veynom, on Flickr (the above story is pure fiction mixed into canon elements from Star Wars VII: The Last Jedi .) The Twi’lek Bombshell is therefore a heavy MOD of the 75188 Resistance Bomber official set. The following modifications can be listed: The vertical wing has been made thicker by 2 plates and tiled; Nose arts (shark mouth & Twi’lek) and kill marks custom water transfers have been applied; The bomber body length has been increase by 8 studs while the hight was increased by 1 plate in order to better match the original model dimensions; The top turret has been moved backward, detailed and can now rotate; Rear guns and turrets have been detailed, taking inspiration from [URL=https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/154310-mod-bsf-17-heavy-bomber/]Gudetamago[/url] The bomber’s top received extra-detailing to closely match the original model. Forward wings have been rebuilt using SNOT. Cockpit and body inside have been detailed. The Twi'lek Bombshell by Veynom, on Flickr The Twi'lek Bombshell by Veynom, on Flickr The Twi'lek Bombshell by Veynom, on Flickr The Twi'lek Bombshell by Veynom, on Flickr The Twi'lek Bombshell by Veynom, on Flickr The resulting model – while much heavier than the 75188 set – remains perfectly playable. It can still bomb (and the panel can rotate to be opened and reload the bombs) and it can still land as the 75188 model. Special thanks to Muad’Brick for the original concept art of the Twi’lek Bombshell and the edited pictures. The Twi'lek Bombshell by Veynom, on Flickr The Twi'lek Bombshell by Veynom, on Flickr Thanks for reading and comments are welcome.
  19. Chmashdehjare

    What modular to buy for a 2x mod?

    Most of the my Lego "career" has been in the Technic line, but having started looking at modulars a year or so ago I got bit hard. I have all of them from PS on except for TH, but have only built PS so far because I just don't get as much building time as I'd like. I have been doing some old Town forum reading and have been enjoying reading about and seeing mods people have made to modulars by doubling up on them and making them wider, taller, deeper, etc. I'm not normally a moc'er or mod'er since my relaxation therapy is in the following of instructions and getting a beautiful or fun to play with model. However, I'm feeling inspired to dip my toes into mod'ing a modular by buying a double and seeing if I can squeeze any creative juices out of me. I think I can slip a single duplicate modular into the budget (and past the wife!) but am realistically limited to what Lego is still selling (so that means my options are AS, BB, PR, DO, DD). Now that it's double VIP points also, that makes it easier to consider. So, I'm wondering, if you were going to buy a single duplicate modular to build a 2x version from, which one would you pick? For some reason that I don't think I can explain,I have a slight leaning toward DO. Perhaps the pool hall interior has me itching to make a larger pool hall/pub interior. I don't really know so I'm curious what you all think. Thanks!
  20. After some fits and starts with figuring out the render process and the like, I'm finally ready to post some of my work. Let's start with something kind of plain, and see where it goes: LXF File This is a full-length European-style truck and dolly/trailer combination, based heavily on the "LEGO City Scania Truck Instructions" video by "custombricksets" (the front of the cab mainly), and the official 3221 Delivery Truck set for the trailer, but with my own flair on it (three axles and a ball socket at the back so you can connect another dolly if you want), and the truck has a ramp that's based on a MOC by Are Helseldal I found on LEGO Ideas. It's built to a 1 stud = 40 cm scale, which works out to six studs wide, and 62.5 studs long for a 2.5 x 25 meter truck, which is pretty much spot on. The truck is around 28 studs long, the trailer is 33, and there's 1.5 studs of room between the ramp and the trailer.
  21. We decided to divide the LEGO 10251 Brick Bank into 2 separate buildings. The bank became Umbrella Bank This is the second building, which contains the Laundromat and an apartment with full interior. The apartment contains an elevator, rehearsal room, kitchen, bathroom/toilet, 2 bedrooms and a living room. It's not presented as an apartment with a family living there, but more as scenes that might happen in a LEGO world. Our version does not have much in common with the original version of the laundromat, except from the interior and a few details from the facade. The main colors are dark azur, dark blue, black and silver. Though it's a modular building, the size does not fit with the official modular buildings. It's 26x26 studs and 75 cm tall. This is the first of hopefully many tall modular buildings that eventually will form a street in our LEGO layout.
  22. hey, been a while since i've built anything major, but i've finally figured out what i'm going to do for my next moc series. i'd like to build upgraded, full-scale versions of the crazy vehicles from the ninjago movie, as the released sets each seem to be roughly half the size of the movie versions. unfortunately i'm running into an issue in finding reference images of them. the concept art book has some good stuff in it, but stuff like cole's mech in the book isn't the final one (it has a brick built wheel) and the garma-mecha-man isn't represented in its brick form like, at all. any google searching i have done has nearly entirely lead me to pictures of the toy versions, not the movie versions. i'm looking for any screenshots, current mocs or in progress shots, or production shots that are available for these, or any tips you guys could give me on doing them. i'm starting off with the ice tank, so shots of that are the most helpful for now
  23. This electric high speed passenger train was inspired by both 7745 (High-Speed City Express Passenger Train Set) from 1985 and 60051 (High-Speed Passenger train) from 2014. The train features two locomotives (with no motors in either), one club car and four coaches. The roof of each car comes off to get at the inside, and all but the locomotives have interior details such as tables and chairs. (The cab cars are supposed to have generators and mechanical details, but I couldn't make it look good so they were removed.) The cabs on the two locomotives have computer screens for the drivers, but the rest of the open space is empty. You can add in PF / or 9v motors to either (or both!) of the locos, but I did not due to my personal preference of hand pushing things around. This car is one of four identical ones that all have removable roof sections. The club car's top roof section is removable to get at the upper floor, but the lower section is not accessible at all. (I did try unsuccessfully to make it work. The LDD file for this model is at brick safe. Please note, the red of the train can be completely replaced by blue, if you wanted to give it some variety. Comments, questions and suggestions are always welcome!
  24. So, I've attempted my first Modular. I was limited by the bricks I have, (and a couple of bricks seem to have somehow fallen off), but it's the right dimensions to fit alongside the official Modular Buildings. Just wondering what thoughts/advice people may have to help me improve my modular building skills? So, here's the house And the people and animals who live there There's an open plan living area on the ground floor With a kitchen area A downstairs WC & a place to sit Going up the stairs, we reach the bedroom area There's an en suite shower & a balcony with Jaccuzzi From there, we can access the roof terrace Where the minifigures like to hold barbecue parties I used transparent coloured bricks where appropriate to let in light but retain privacy
  25. This is the second mod I have done to Lego's 42056 Porsche 911 GT3 RS set. I used the same height lift as I used on my previous Porsche mod and moved forward the bottom arms in the front and the rear of the chassis to add negative camber. The car was able to roll without the body on, but once I put it on, it couldn't roll. This means the car is now purely a display model. As much as a JDM fanboy I am, I'm kind of upset with the result of the car not moving, but at least I'm glad that I stanced this car anyways just for the fun of it. Although, quote automotive YouTuber GasKings, the camber angle does seem a bit too much on here like "a baby giraffe taking its first steps." So, what do you think of this mod I have done? Is it CamberGang worthy? I think it looks neat, but I would like to get rid of the camber (and the height lift) so I can roll this car around again. Here's some more pictures of the car I took. Thanks as always for checking this out, and I hope you'll stick around for my next builds.