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Found 20 results

  1. Ultimately playable Porsche 911 GT3 RS Now that I have finished Box 1. and got the shifting mechanism and drive train working properly, I thought I might start my own thread about this project. I plan to submit the result to the Porsche of Your Dreams contest. With this project I aim for playability rather than authenticity. So McPherson strut suspension and rear wheel steering? Probably not. But HoG steering and HoG shifting? Yes. I'm actually working on 2 versions, the minimal version and the ultimate version. The minimal version includes all 'must-have' modifications - or fixes - that I listed in the minimal sections below. The ultimate version will include rear HoG steering, rear HoG shifting, a more sturdy chassis, a dashboard gear indicator, Ackermann steering and a stabilized gear rack. The ultimate version also includes all essential fixes, but sometimes implemented in a different way to fit the more advanced modifications. I will keep an index here on the OP of this thread of all the modifications I implemented or plan to implement. Ultimate version - Planned features Lockable doors Ultimate version - Implemented features 4th to 1st gear block Hand of God steering Hand of God shifting Sturdy without body Geared up engine Dash gear indicator Ackermann steering Stabilized gear rack Secured wishbones Improved clearance Improved shifters Removable body Ultimate version - Building directions (link) I do not plan for full-blown instructions. For now I can only offer this thread with reports on all MODs and a LXF-file showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup representing the old structure and the new structure. Both new structures and old structures are embedded in a version of the chassis. By clicking on a group or subgroup in the group tab you select all parts in that group. Now when you invert the selection and then delete the selection you see a cutaway of the group, which allows you to inspect the group thoroughly. Use Ctrl-Z to undo the delete after inspection. This way you can inspect the differences group by group. I also have a parts list available with the extra parts needed for this version. If you want to build this using the LXF-file for the 'ultimate version' you should take into account the following pointers: You need to make sure each individual axle that is part of the shift or drive train runs smoothly, with the least of friction. Make sure gears don't rub against liftarms, especially the red clutch gears need some play. When you replace the knob gears inside the PDK-unit with bevel gears, make sure the axles keep their original orientation. A knob gear mesh implies a 45 degree orientation difference. Note that the 3L pins with 1L axle inside the PDK-unit need to be inserted half a stud deeper than what the LXF-file shows. LDD does not allow a full insertion. Also check the changes to Box 2; for instance the way the vertically placed black panel in front of the rear suspension module has been secured to adequately lock up the 20t bevel gears used for the rear HoGs. Also check the changes to Box 3 and 4, which are needed to make the body removable. Minimal version - Gear shifting MODs (link) I applied Paul Boratko's gear sequence fix as described in Jim's review. I flipped the change-over-catches in paddle-shifter-unit by 180 degrees (as suggested by Attika). I added the simple 90° limiter to the gear selector axle; used two of the four white silicon bands. I removed the 8 tooth gears used to add friction; minimized friction in the selector axle instead. I used only one silicon band for each paddle shifter; wrapped it around the neck of the ball joint once. I extended both change-over-catches in the gearbox with half a stud (more info here). Minimal version - Friction reducing MODs (link) I removed the pin-joiner in the D+N+R-gearbox. Original idea suggested by Blakbird, see his detailed build report. I avoided red gears from transferring torque on axles rotating at different speed, see eliminate friction in gearbox. I added an extra support for the 15L axle running from D+N+R gearbox to differential, see alternative axle scheme. I avoided axle connectors from rubbing against lift-arms as suggested by nerdsforprez, see alternative axle scheme. I replaced the white clutch gear with a gearless friction clutch, see alternative axle scheme and white gear replacement. Now I could gear up the engine: Replaced the 2 16t gears with a pair of 24t-8t gears, see eliminate friction in gearbox. Minimal version - Building instructions (link) For the minimal version I made building instructions in terms of errata. The errata will help you implement the necessary fixes while building the model from scratch. It provides a list of extra parts you need (only 30 small and commonly used parts) and a sequence of steps that serve as a replacement of the corresponding steps in the original building instructions. All can be found in this PDF. and on Rebrickable. The errata include a 4th-to-1st gear block, but do not provide instructions for additional features like HoG steering or a removable body. I was a little bit in doubt whether to include all changes to the axle scheme or not. Blakbird - who has test-driven this set of modifications, thanks for that! - was already satisfied without applying all changes to avoid connectors from rubbing against liftarms. I decided to include them anhyway, beacuse I think it's simply a matter of good practice and since these errata are specifically useful when you build the model from scratch, it's an easy gain. For all MODs that are included in the errata I also made a LDD-file of Box 1. showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup containing the old structure and a subgroup containing the new structure. All new structures are embedded in the complete chassis and all old structures are placed to the side of the chassis. By clicking on a subgroup you select all parts in that group. That way you can inspect the differences. Besides the modifications listed above the LDD-file contains HoG steering.
  2. Hi Lego fans, I'm close to finally completing my second build of the Lego Porsche and was interested to know if anyone has developed 4 wheel steering for this set? I am close to a prototype working solution but still need a few free weekends before i can fully validate it (need more parts) If anyone has developed or prototyped any solutions please share them here. I will be uploading my build in the future (hopefully not to many weeks away). My project background: I purchased the set when it was first released, but held fire on building it, given the numerous issues the Lego community identified with the build. Fast-forward a year and a bit and some of the work done by this community just blew me away. ...and with the release of the community driven Errata compiled by @Didumos69 and the subsequent instructions by @jb70, I had no more excuses to delay building the set. My first build was as per jb70's instructions with the addition of Didumos69's modified steering module as incorporated by @Kumbbl and @DayWalker elegant gear change sequence mod. I also made one or two further minor corrections and robustness improvements and lastly added Kumbbl's minor body mod of adding a small panel below the headlights. Subsequently i marked up jb70's pdf with the additional changes mentioned above to create a new set of instructions (i don't have the skills to create Lego instructions, so just used pictures to show the changes in any steps). My Prototype 4 wheel steering mod: (to be updated over the coming weeks - target completion and write-up: 15th Oct) My starting point is the build as described above. After completing the first build and drooling over the amazing improved and additional functionality, I found myself feeling really guilty! The community had put in so much effort in turning this set from a real let down to an amazing build. What had i contributed - nothing!. In addition, (as i love my cars - go figure!), I had a growing irritation with the set day by day, as it did not have a key feature of the real car - 4 wheel steering. See this excellent video demonstrating the 4 wheel drive system on the actual car. Anyway, using some of the design principles in the 8880 set, i developed the prototype design. A key goal of the design has been to try and reuse some of the left over parts of the original set but where functionality is being compromised, new parts had to be introduced. The development is split into 4 parts: 1. Front to Rear Steering Transfer Mechanism This mechanism is designed to fit Didumos69's modified steering module as incorporated by Kumbbl. See picture below for a view of the Transfer Mechanism which also shows part of the Rear Steering Path. 2. Rear Steering Drive Path I've managed to hide the drive path behind the central segment of the car which is covered by black curved panels. This keeps the solution neat and hidden away, The remainder of the mechanism is shown below including the rear axle steering rack. Rear Axle Re-design The largest challenge turned out to be the rear axle re-design. The forward suspension strut has to be re-located as it interferes with the steering link and so i decided to move both the forward and rear struts to the top. This is probably the most controversial change, but i expect it will look very good on the car as it will be visible through the rear windscreen, when the body is mounted. Body Changes For future update That's all for now folks. I will post more information once i have the correct parts to commence the second build.
  3. I've recently returned to LEGO, thanks in no small part to being given the 42056 Porsche 911 GT3 RS set as a birthday gift by my excellent friends. It was amazing to see how Technics sets have progressed since my childhood but was very dissapointed to find that there were no B model in the instructions. In my early days B models taught me that it was OK to pull apart a build and make something new and this was more than half the fun. Well there was nothing else for it but to make my own and here it is! The Lancia Stratos was an impressive, almost otherworldy machine that loomed large through my childhood and it seemed a fine choice for the orange parts of 42056. The wheels are the right diameter but a lot wider so they take up a lot more room inboard than the real thing and have what you might call a cheeky amount of overlap on the guards but I reckon it works here. I've kept the wheel base and track to scale. Everything opens and shuts like the original and there's a working 5 speed "H" pattern shift gearbox driving the transverse V6 in the back. You can add an additional part to activate reverse gear but this is not neccesary if you want to stay within the parts list of 42056. There are instructions available and the first chapter, the gearbox, is free so that you can see if you can work with them or not. They're available here: INSTRUCTIONS You'll find some unusual choices in terms of parts and placement but remember that this is an alternate build and the bricks available are somewhat limited. Since this is a B model and all the parts are sourced from 42056 it was tricky to get the form and functions that I wanted without too many compromises but the details of the MOC are: Dimensions : Studs = 69 x 56 x 23 cm = 55 x 44.6 x 19 Weight = 2.02 kg Part count = 2197 - 5 speed "H" pattern gearbox with optional reverse - working fake transverse V6 engine - steering via HOG that moves the wheels and steering wheel - front and rear independent suspension - openable bonnet, boot and doors I hope you like it and I'm looking forward to spending a lot of time in this community, I never knew what an AFOL was until a couple of weeks ago and now it turns out I am one - it's a brave new world for me!
  4. First if all I totally forgot to post this model here on the forum, guess better late than never Now to explain a bit about the motives behind this model before I go into specific details. Counter on my youtube channel was nearing 10.000 so I wanted to make something trully special. I was not sure what kind of a model I want to make, a sportscar, offroader, construction machine, so the decision came to MAKE ALL AT ONCE. The model would also incoporate ideas from the last decade of Lego technic product to go along with my 10 years on youtube. Starting with the design, the front end is heavily inspired by 42083 and 41999. Notice the front wheels are from 42056. The first motorized function is adjustable front suspension inspired by 8297: The front end can raise by 3 centiemetrs to allow the model to negotiate rough terrain. Continuing towards the cab, which was inspired by 41999, we can pop up the hood to find a green colored 10 cylinder engine inspred by 42030: Cab doors are inspired by the doors from 42069, which open at the angle. Opening the doors you can find a full interrior with two adjustable seats andworking steering wheel: In the center of the cab there is a gearbox which movel lineary to switch between 3+R gears using a special mechanism. This emchanisem translates the sliding action into usable inputs for the gearbox: Going further back, there is a section holding the battery box and, orange lever and utensils on the left side. I will explain the function of the orange lever later. On the opposite, right side there are 2 M motors powering all the motorized functions. Notice the mysterious red lever which is used for switching motorized functions. Notice the pump used to power the pneumatic functions. There are also two electric switches to reverse the two driving M motors. If we continue towards the back, we can see there is a pair of linear actuators used to manipulate the container. The red lever switches power from one of the M motor between the adjustable front suspension and linear actuators. But not only can the linear actuators tilt the container, but they can also pick up and load the entire thing. To switch between tilting or picking up, the orange lever is used to lock the individual segments of the lifting arm. This function is inspired by 8052. The arm can reach out and pick up the container with ease: If we continue and look at the photo of the back side you may notice a PTO output along with a strange mechanism with rubber bands: Same motor that powers adjustable front suspension, linear actuators also powers the PTO output via 24 tooth clutch gear. Notice that the PTO output uses a CV joint in order to slide the axles into it without friction. The rubber band mechanism is used to hold the rear attachment. This was inspired by 8110 and 42054. Here is a sum up the functions of the model so far: 1. Motorized functions Adjustable font suspension Tilting of the container Picking up and lifting of the container Pneumatic compressor and storage provided by two air tanks powered rear PTO 2. Manual functions: 10 cylinder engine powered via rear wheels through a 3+R gearbox 3+R gearbox Steering controlled by steering wheels inside the cab AND the light on the right side of the roof Openable doors Openable hood Adjutstable seats Independent front suspension Solid live axle assembly in the rear - inspired by 42043 Features: Both front axles are at a positive cats angle, allwing the fat Porsche wheels to self-center Due to the immense weight, each rear solid axle is supported by 4 yellow very hard springs The 3+R gearbox is derived from my diagonal gearbox featured in the Dominator TRS Due to its framed design the gearbox provides a very rigid backbone to the model A 5 tubed exhaust seemed appropriate for the 10 cylinder engine I hope this photo helps you understand all the functions and features a bit better. Each color of the model's chassis represents a different module. Next we will look at the rear attachment built for this model. The attachment is multifunctional, combining linear actuators, pneumatics and 4-way switchbox to actuate all the functions: In total the attachemnt features following functions powered by a PTO via 4-way switchbox: Extension of the control arms via small actuators and a lever mechanism Lowering of the control arms via large actuators - inspried by 42009 Rotation of the arm Spooling up a winch which allows the arm to be used as a crane arm - inspired by 8258 Additionally there are 4 pneumatic function powered by the compressor and air stored in the two pneumatic tanks on the truck itself: Raising of the primary arm joint Raising of the secondary arm joint Tilting of the showel - inspired by 8043 Closure of the blue pneumatic claws - inspired by 8110 Some intersting facts about this attachment module: All of the penumatic functions + rope of the winch pass through the turntable. Rotation of the turntable is limited to some 350 degrees to avoid all those tubes and rope tangling up The structure of the arm with diagonal arms is inspired by crane arms Frictionless 8 tooth gears allow the white 16L axles to slide with ease while powering the two large actuators used for support legs The 4-way switchbox is one of my most complex and sense assemblies and it took me 2 days to design with support of LDD. Winch uses a friction pin to keep the rope from unloading when the winch function is off. The blue claw uses rubber bricks for better grip Combining the main model with the atatchment resluts in a model which weighs around 5 kilograms and is over a meter long! Some facts about the design, and build of the model: The whole model took me over 2 months to design and built, biggest challenging being the gearbox, container arm and rear attachment switchbox. A lot of care was placed into keeping all the functions working reliably with a limited power source (M motor) and safely with no gears skipping or breaking. The model uses around 16 universal and 3 CV joints to transfer the power to the suspension lifting mechanism, PTO, both steering sytsems and drive axles. Each rear axle is capable of supporting the whole model's weight, the weak point are the Power Puller tyres which sag quite a lot, especially on the third axle. Thanks to it's stiff gearbox, this model has one of the stiffest central frames I ever built allowing the model to be easily picked up by diagonal front and rear wheel without excessive flex. Gas canisters and first aid from 42069 are featured on this model The hood ornament is a bunny from a Lego Friends set This is my first model to use the white pneumatic air tanks for it's intended purpose. The model is covered with glow in the dark parts close to its edges, so its visible at night - useful when you are wandering around your building area at night A photo of the mashup's total of 8 glow in the dark bionicle claw/eye pieces: You can see the model in action in the following feature video: Finally I would like to thank you for reading through this massive post and for helping me reach 10.000 subscribers.
  5. I never imagined I would say this, but as of today I am the proud owner of a Porsche 911 GT3 RS. How cool is that?! Waiting for this set to arrive seemed to take ages, so I was definitely on cloud nine when the set finally arrived. The 911 is one of the oldest sports cars on the market. It's lineage dates back to 1963, which is quite impressive! Since the production of the 911 there have been lots of different versions, like the Carrera, Carrera S, Targa, Turbo, R, GT1, GT2, GT2 RS, GT3 and GT3 RS. The GT3 RS can be easily recognized by the race-inspired inlets in the front wheel arches. Due to legislation there's a grill in the inlets. It can be removed during track days, which will improve the downforce. The LEGO Technic Porsche 911 GT3 RS is a 1:8 scale model and is 17 cm high, 57 cm long, and 25 cm wide. It has been designed by Andrew Woodman and Uwe Wabra. When TLG started the initial drafts in 2013, the Porsche 911 GT3 RS project remained top secret. Therefore TLG had to build the first LEGO version using photos of the camouflaged prototype of the original from the internet. The first LEGO prototype was ready in a matter of weeks. Like every sports car with the Porsche emblem on the hood, the LEGO version of the Porsche 911 GT3 RS also combines design, performance, and functionality. Still concealed in black-and-white foil as a mystery model at the Nuremberg toy fair late January, the color of the characteristic bodywork has now been revealed and shines in bright orange. Thus, it corresponds to the special coating of the original sports car in lava orange authentically. With the right skills you can get the GT3 RS around the Nürburgring in 7 minutes and 20 seconds. Factory driver Brendon Hartley took it for a spin on the Nardo circuit in Italy. The video can be found here. When you talk about a genuine sports car, you immediately talk about performance, which is pretty impressive, to say the least. Let's take a look at the specs: Horsepower: 368 kW or 500 pk (at 8.250 rpm) 0 - 100 km/h: 3,3 sec 0 - 200 km/h: 10,9 sec Top Track Speed: 310 km/h or 193 mph Price: around 250.000 euro (no extras, Dutch price) If you are interested in buying (or configuring) your own 911 GT3 RS, you can click here and indulge yourself. Instead of buying or configuring we will be building a Porsche 911 GT3 RS today. That's something not a lot of people could say, until now! Although I must admit that even though this version is a fraction of the price of the real car, it still has a pretty heavy price tag. Forking out 300 euros for a collection of ABS isn't something everyone will understand. Before we start I like to point out some of the questions which have arisen. For example; why is this set rated 16+ while the Mercedes is 12-16 year? Is the price tag of 300 euros justified? Does this model replicate some of the real world mechanics? Does the luxury packaging add any value to this set? These are just some of the questions I will be answering in this review. This review will have a different setup than my regular reviews. Since this sets focuses on the entire experience instead of the model alone, I will try to share this experience in my review. Instead of opening the box, discussing the parts and taking you through the build, like I usually do, I like to focus on the different aspects of the set and model. When it comes to the model, I will try to compare it with it's real life counterpart. TLG made a teaser for this set using the word Ultimate. There will be little discussion about the real Porsche's association with this word. But will it's LEGO counterpart live up to the expectations?! I think it's time to move onto the interesting part and find out whether this LEGO Technic set also deserves the predicate Ultimate. PICTURES Pictures can be clicked to view hi-res versions. More pictures can be found in my Flickr album. DISCLAIMER This set has been provided by the CEE Team of TLG. It's not my goal to promote this set. It's my goal to give you an honest opinion about it. Therefor, the opinion in this review is my own and is in no way linked to TLG. Number: 42056 Title: Porsche 911 GT3 RS Theme: Technic Released: 2016 Part Count: 2704 Box Weight: 4,8 kg (approx) Box Dimensions: 47,1 cm x 37,3 cm x 14,7 Set Price (MSRP): € 300 Price per Part: € 0,111 Links: Brickset, Bricklink Will this be a Limited Edition set? No, it will be as limited as other Technic sets. Which is also stated in the press release: The exclusive LEGO set of the exceptional sports car, which has been developed in close conjunction with Porsche AG, will initially be available at shop.LEGO.com from June 1st, 2016, as well as in the 13 LEGO stores throughout Germany and Austria. It will be available in other stores from August 1st, 2016. This means that when you are reading this review, the set is already available, which is usually not the case with other Technic sets. The box is a key feature of this set. Instead of a regular Technic box, this set is packaged like the 41999 - Crawler Exclusive Edition. The term Exclusive indicates that we are dealing with a special set, which is obviously the case for the Porsche as well. The following question (asked by JGW3000) is more than justified: Since the box presentation is a key feature of this set, perhaps Jim can comment on packaging and outer packing used to protect the box, so we can determine if we should go to a LEGO store or risk mail order in order to purchase this. In my Review of the 42043 - Mercedes Arocs I explained that my box was severely damaged. Obviously that's something you don't want to happen when you are buying a 300 euro Ultimate LEGO Technic set, with exclusive packaging. Lo and behold; the box arrived in pristine condition. The set box snugly fits inside the outer box, which avoids taking damage too easily. I am very pleased with the condition my set arrived in. I don't think getting the set in a physical store will guarantee a better condition. Thumbs up for shipping it this way. I hereby present, the Porsche 911 GT3 RS...in a box! It's way more luxurious than a regular LEGO box. Black and orange obviously work very well together. The bright color, combined with some post-crop vignetting really makes the Porsche stand out. I can honestly say that the box makes you anxious to open it. A LEGO box has seldomly made me feel more exhilarated before opening it. This is definitely a plus. This box is pretty big and feels massive. Since it's filled with additional boxes it feels very sturdy and doesn't dent easily. Since it's filled to the brim, the box isn't much larger than the box of the 41999. The width and height are the same. It's a bit deeper though, which can be seen in the image below. FRONT SIDE The front side of the box shows the model itself, along with the Porsche emblem and the set information. In case you are wondering what the 18 means in the upper right corner; that's not 18, but 1:8, the approximate scale of the model. It also states that this set is 16+, which is rather unusual. Hopefully we can answer Allanp's question at the end of this review: What makes this set carry the 16+ symbol? It isn't the largest or the most complex set to date, so why the 16+ age thing? BACK SIDE The backside of the box shows a top down view picture of the Porsche, along with four key features (interior, suspension, engine, upholstery). INSIDE The reason the box feels so sturdy is that it is literally filled to the brim. I can't think of any other Technic set which was filled like this. In the old days TLG used an inlay, but they never entirely filled a box like they did now. Showing the rims instead of packing them inside the box is a nice touch. The way the book and rims are being presented, is an indication that you are in for a treat. Another bonus is visible on the inside of the cover. It shows the history of the 911 from the original 911 (911) to the 2011 911 (991). The box contains: 1 x Book 1 x Sticker sheet 4 x Box with parts 1 x Box with rims and tires Each of the smaller boxes depicts what you will be building during that phase. I sure hope we will be building more than just an engine, seats, hood and a spoiler After discussing the box, the book definitely needs our attention. It's presented as the center piece of the contents and it's an absolute eye-catcher. The book packs a whopping 580 pages (including the front and back cover), which is unprecedented (not having seen the 2016 2H BWE instruction manual). Being designed as a coffee table book, it doesn't simply provide the building instructions. It also contains an abundance of historic information about the Porsche 911 and of it's LEGO counterpart's design process. Comments have been made that this book makes the set more expensive, which is debatable. Around 40 pages have been devoted to this additional information, which boils down to around 7% of the book. Maybe I'm simplifying the calculation, but this means this book can't be more than 7% more expensive than regular instructions would have cost. While we are on the subject of a coffee table book, TLG could have gone the extra mile and provide a hardcover book. This surely would have increased the costs, but you would get something in return. I'm not saying they should have, I'm saying they could have. Personally I think this book is fine, since it only contains about 7% additional information (concentrated at the beginning). It would have been a different case, if it contained more information throughout the book. Riffling through some pages of the book, we even see the previously mentioned Brendon Hartley making an appearance (top right image). The first step in the construction of your 911 GT3 RS is to build the drivetrain, complete with dual clutch gearbox (PDK), paddle shifters, suspension and the heart of the 911 GT3 RS, the 4.0 flat 6 engine. When you have completed all the steps in box 1 you will be able to test out all the functions and see how they work. Reading this means we are working on the fun part of the vehicle. Which immediately raises the question; is all the functionality of the car built during this phase? The first box contains 11 numbered bags. It even contains the new fender pieces, two printed and four unprinted. Will we be using these already in the first phase? Below are two images showing the new (and orange) parts contained in the first box. New pieces are the orange fender pieces, flex axles, the 3L axle with stop (color coded brown), new wheel hubs, changeover catches, suspension with red finish, panels and a tile with a unique code (supposedly to unlock online content). Instead of taking you through the build, I will discuss the different technical aspects of the real vehicle and compare them to it's LEGO counterpart. The single most interesting part about this set is the gearbox, which you start building early on. The picture below shows where the lever, to change the selected gear mode (Drive, Neutral or Reverse), will be placed (between the two blue 3L pins). As you can see, selecting Reverse simply changes the direction of the gears. Does this mean we have the same number of gears in Reverse as we have in Drive? Yes, it does! It’s the year 1983. In the new 956 Group C racing car, Porsche is putting a double-clutch transmission – Porsche Doppelkupplung (PDK) – through the rigors of motorsport for the first time. PDK offers a crucial advantage: the driver can keep the accelerator pedal depressed and change gear easily by using buttons on the steering wheel, even in the corners. This is how it works. PDK is essentially two gearboxes in one and thus requires two clutches. This double-clutch arrangement provides an alternating, non-positive connection between the two half gearboxes and the engine by means of two separate input shafts. During a gear change, therefore, one clutch simply opens and the other closes at the same time, enabling gear changes to take place within milliseconds. Highly responsive and particularly sporty. More information can be found here In the picture below we can see how TLG implemented the double clutch mechanism. There's a clutch at the top and one at the bottom. This is obviously a simplified interpretation of the real PDK. How about making your own four wheel drive Porsche? Does the transmission have an output that could be sent to the front easily, like 8448's (asked by Lego Nerd)? The red changeover catch is probably placed for stability (you will connect a liftarm to it later on), but it also provides a possibility to turn this into a 4WD car. Of course, you would need two additional differentials, one between the front wheels, and one in the gearbox between the front and rear axles. What's the point of having clutch gear inside all this? (asked by Allanp) Unlike in a real car, there's no stop after the highest or lowest gear, meaning that you can switch the car from 4th to 1st gear and from 1st back to 4th. That's one of the reasons the clutch gear is used, since the axles/gearbox will generate a lot of resistance/strain at some point. Another reason is that it's there to prevent possible damage to the gears if two speeds get temporarily engaged at the same time while rolling it. Or possibly if rolling in neutral and engaging drive while in first gear. Here's a video of the gear changing sequence. I have temporarily attached an axle to demonstrate the gearbox. Obviously you will not be shifting gears by turning a gear. You will be shifting this car, using the flappy paddle gearbox! How cool is that! The paddles are integrated in the steering assembly, which is shown below. The right paddle shifts the car into a higher gear, while the left one switches down. Here you can see the steering and shifting assembly attached to the chassis. The video below demonstrates shifting with the flappy paddles. Bear in mind that the subassembly is not yet properly secured, so there's some movement, which will be gone when the chassis has been finished. How am I supposed to shift gears by the way? As you can see there's no convenient position to operate the paddles. You need to grab the bushes and elastic bands to operate the gearbox. I can hardly imagine there's no better solution for this. Extending the axle by 1L would probably have done the trick. This feels somewhat cumbersome. The best solution would have been to design custom flappy paddles, but I understand this decision can't be taken lightly. What I don't understand is that TLG didn't provide an extra set of elastic bands. The bands will wear out after a few years on the shelf, rendering them useless. Providing a spare set would have been a nice gesture. Onto a more delicate matter. Some of you might have heard or read the rumors about this set being potentially flawed. Before jumping to conclusions, let's take look at the supposed flaws of the gearbox. First of all, the gear sequence is incorrect. Instead of switching from 1st to 2nd to 3rd to 4th, it's shifting from 1st to 3rd to 2nd to 4th. Say what?! I talked to Paul (Boratko, Crowkillers) about this possible issue, and without seeing any picture he immediately figured out that some of the gears must have been switched. As it turns out, there's indeed a mistake in the building instructions, or in the design, but I reckon it's not the latter. The video below demonstrates the incorrect sequence: I can (more or less) understand why this mistake has been made. What I can't understand is that this has not been caught before production. Quality control guys most likely aren't petrol heads, like some of the AFOLs. Let's take a look at what's wrong. On the left you will see the assembly when you follow the building instructions. On the right you see how it needs to be built. The grey 16T Gear and the black 12T Double Bevel Gear need to switch sides. the center gears are placed correctly. Here's a short video of how to apply the fix. The mistake has been made on page 267, 268 and 269 of the manual. So make sure to apply this fix when you reach that stage. After this fix, the sequence of the gearbox has been corrected. The gearbox is now shifting in the proper sequence, which can be seen in the following video: So it's all good now?! Well, not exactly. There's an even more pressing matter which we need to discuss. Occasionally the gearbox seems to stall completely. Take a look at the video and see what happens: Since you are not supposed to hook up a motor near the fake engine, the white clutch gear can't do it's job to prevent stalling. However, the main question is; why does the gearbox stall completely? And why does it stall so often? One of the reasons can be that the fins on the new red driving rings are slightly too thick. This will increase the change of the gears getting stuck. However, it happens quite often so I am not sure whether this is the case. The majority of the people building this set will probably never notice this flaw, since the clutch gear will hide the gearbox issues. But this set being The Ultimate, you'd expect the gearbox to function properly. The gearbox being the single most important technical function in the car, I am baffled by the fact that the mistake in the building instruction has not been caught, and that the actual gearbox itself seems to be flawed. Next time TLG better contact Paul before releasing another supercar This issue has been communicated to TLG, so let's wait for them to come with an official statement. Comparing the Porsche to the 42039 - 24 Hours Race Car we can see that the width from the end of the wishbones (where the ball joints connect) is 23L versus 19L. The Porsche itself is actually 4 studs wider than the 42039, two on each side. Compared to the steering assembly of the 42039. You notice the gear rack is much smaller, yet the turning radius is better. Two of half pins are limiting the turning radius of the Porsche. Removing them will slightly improve the radius, but the wheels might slightly touch the inside of the chassis, especially when the suspension is compressed. Here you can see the steering linkage, a pretty straightforward mechanism. Fitted as standard, the new rear axle steering with sport tuning combines performance and everyday driveability. An electromechanical adjustment system at each rear wheel enables the steering angle to be adapted based on the current driving situation, steering input and vehicle speed. The advantage for day-to-day driving: during low-speed maneuvers, the system steers the rear wheels in the opposite direction to that of the front wheels. This has the virtual effect of shortening the wheelbase. The turning circle is reduced to make it easier to park. The advantage for sporty driving: during high-speed maneuvers, the system steers the rear wheels in the same direction as that of the front wheels. Driving stability is increased by the virtual extension of the wheelbase and agility is enhanced by the simultaneous steering of the front and rear axles, especially during overtaking maneuvers on the racetrack. One of the coolest feature about the real 911 GT3 RS is the fact that it has rear axle steering. It even alternates between steering modes! At low speed it counter steers (to improve the turning radius) and at high speed it steers in the same direction (to increase driving stability). That's so incredibly cool. And it's definitely something we expect to see in The Ultimate supercar TLG is releasing. Unfortunately they haven't. I am very disappointed to conclude that there's no real axle steering at all. Not even counter steering rear wheels, which would have sufficed. Obviously having both modes would be super duper awesome, but at least give us the counter steering mode. Not sure why TLG hasn't implemented this feature. They might have felt the need to do both of them. But omitting rear axle steering altogether is a huge letdown for me. RECTIFICATION I need to rectify something. According to this interview on the Top Gear site, Porsche vetoed the inclusion of the rearsteer. Obviously Uwe was able to recreate this mechanism. Makes you wonder why it wasn't included. This electronic active damping system offers continuous adjustment of the damping force on each wheel based on the current driving situation and your driving style. At the press of a button, you can select between two different modes. ‘Normal’ mode is designed for sporty driving on public roads and on wet racetracks. ‘Sport’ mode is specially tuned for maximum lateral acceleration and offers the best possible traction on the track. To continue with cool features, or letdowns, the 911 GT3 RS has, what's called PASM (Porsche Active Suspension Management). This basically boils down to ride hight adjustment, which is another potential cool feature to incorporate into the model. Unfortunately, like the rear axle steering, this feature has been omitted too. The engine of the new 911 GT3 RS sits just above the tarmac. At the rear end, of course. With its low center of gravity, it was predestined for motorsport. Indeed, this water-cooled six-cylinder unit with four valves per cylinder, VarioCam and dry-sump lubrication with a separate engine oil tank could not be more ideally equipped for its role. The engine draws its power from a capacity of 4.0 liters. This equates to a power output per liter of 92 kW (125 hp), and acceleration that simply knows no limits: the sprint from 0 to 60 mph is completed in a mere 3.1 seconds. The real Porsche has been fitted with a 4.0 liter 6-cylinder boxer engine, while its LEGO counterpart is fitted with a flat 6 engine. The difference between a boxer and a flat engine, is the movement of the pistons. The boxer engine has horizontally opposed pistons (when one piston moves in, the opposite piston moves out), while the flat engine has pistons on each side moving in and out simultaneously. More information about flat engines can be found here. Edit: Techniccrack pointed out that it's exactly the other way around. So the boxer engine has pistons moving in and out simultaneously. Thanks for pointing this out. While the engine in the LEGO version isn't realistically correct, I certainly don't mind TLG choosing this solution. It would have been cool to see new engine parts, but it's perfectly understandable that TLG used the currently available parts. After 323 steps (of 856) you have finished 38% of the model, resulting in the chassis. If there's no additional technical functionality (which seems that way) this means that 62% of the build consists of adding body and interior parts. Constructing the gearbox is interesting, but the overall build of the chassis is a bit underwhelming. The engine has been completely covered by panels and other parts, which is true to the original Porsche. But it does prevent you from seeing the pistons move at different speeds when shifting gears. The calipers are looking rather rectangular. Makes you wonder if it would have been better to use black parts combined with a rounded sticker. This would have reflected the actual shape better. Another option would be to create a custom part, but we obviously TLG can't keep designing new parts. It's cool that they included the calipers in the first place. The rear side has double shock absorbers, while the front uses a single absorber (per side). The back of the car is very heavy compared to the front, so this is good decision. Another aspect which has been discussed is the color vomit in the interior. I don't really mind using colors in the interior (like UCS Star Wars sets), as long as the different colors aren't clearly visible. Clearly visible are the blue pins (especially two of them in the gear box (D/N/R selector). Shouldn't these pins be black? More on this later. During production of the real 911 GT3 RS there is a stage called 'the marriage', where the drivetrain is connected to the body of the car. In this box you build the floor plan of the 911 GT3 RS, complete with seats and roll cage, before placing it over the drivetrain in a similar way to the production of the real 911 GT3 RS. The second box contains 9 numbered bags. The orange parts, including a 11L liftarm and axle connectors, which I already spotted in the Maze set. For me this was an indication that the Porsche would be released in Orange. The floor plan of the car is built separately from the car, in a modular fashion. Note that the body can't be easily detached from the chassis after completing the model, so it's not a real modular build. Here's a video demonstrating the marriage: After the marriage, and adding the seats, the car looks like this. At this stage you have completed 531 steps (of 856) or 62%. I really enjoyed building the second box. Placing the floor plan over the drivetrain is gives you a sense of building a real car. Clearly visible is the roll cage behind the seats. In box 3 you start to assemble the body of your 911 GT3 RS. Starting with the rear of the car and then onto the build of the iconic hood, now with distinctive shaping. Then it's the roof, again with distinctive shaping indicating the lightweight magnesium design only found on the newest 911 GT3 RS. The third box contains 4 numbered bags. Since you will be building the body, this box mainly contains an abundance of orange parts, including lots of panels. This set contains the full range of available panels in orange, except the 5x11 Panel. If I counted correctly this set contains 31 black, 59 orange and 2 grey panels, resulting in a grand total of 92 panels! It also includes 18 frames, which is quite a lot. At the end of box 3 you have finished 79% of the car (679 of 856). It is starting to look like a real Porsche! I absolutely love the new-ish 13x3 Curved Panels. They work really well on this model. Thumbs up for the part designer who designed this part! Now you build the front before adding the distinctive wheel arches with air outlets only found on the 911 GT3 RS. Next you add the massive, motorsport inspired, adjustable rear wing before finishing off your 911 GT3 RS by adding the doors and the exclusive wheels. Like box 3, this box also contains 4 numbered bags. Also containing mostly orange parts and panels. This leaves us with a finished car...okay, almost finished. Next stop, wheels & tires. 20 inches at the front axle, 21 inches at the rear axle. For a wheel size combination, that’s a first in the 911 model range. The larger footprint makes another improvement to dynamic performance. The wheels are made from a forged alloy and feature a platinum-colored paint finish. The central locking device bearing the ‘RS’ logo is derived from motorsport. Compared with the conventional five-bolt wheel connection, it offers enhanced performance thanks to the reduction in rotating masses. And, of course, it ensures a faster wheel change, which is vital when you’re in the pit and the clock is ticking. The tire sizes on the new 911 GT3 RS are nothing short of impressive: 265/35 ZR 20 on 9.5 J x 20 at the front, 325/30 ZR 21 on 12.5 J x 21 at the rear. The last box contains the rims and tires (stored inside the box). As you can see the LEGO wheels have the same size for both the front and the rear wheels. I think this is a perfectly understandable choice. Different sizes would have been hardly noticeable, but it would have added significant costs. Great thing about these rims is, that they are custom designed rims for the GT3 RS. Another great technical specification is that the offset inside the rims reflects the real rims, resulting in a better steering geometry. The printed RS emblems on the 1x1 tile add a nice touch. What size of construction can fit inside the new wheels for when making custom steering and suspension geometries? 5x3? 7x3? 7x5? How deep are they? (asked by Allanp) Can you tell me if they fit on the portal hubs? (asked by Zblj) Hopefully the following images will answer both questions. The portal hub is touching the rims, so it's not possible to fit them without spacers. The image below shows how far the frame is protruding from the rim. Let's talk rims and tires! From left to right (links to Bricklink for easy reference): 42039 - 24 Hours Race Car (and 10 others) 42000 - Grand Prix Racer or 8146 - Nitro Muscle 42056 - Porsche 911 GT3 RS 8674 - Ferrari F1 Racer 1:8 42030 - Volvo L350F or 8110 - Unimog or 76023 - Tumbler 8466 - 4x4 Off Roader or 5659 - Power Puller This picture shows which wheels will fit nicely under the new wheel arch panels. Front view of all the rims. As you can see the Ferrari F1 tires are slightly wider and almost the same height. The Ferrari tires have a slightly higher profile than the Porsche tires. Hopefully this image will give you some reference as to how the different rims compare to each other. This clearly shows the depth of the different rims. After adding the wheels, you have finished your very own Porsche 911 GT3 RS! Let me start by saying that I absolutely love the looks of this car. It sure is a 911 GT3 RS, no doubt about it. I have read some criticism that the car doesn't look good from certain angles. I beg to differ. Taking in account that we are still talking about a LEGO model, I think this car looks magnificent. There's a gap between the headlights and bumper, which people have complained about. Admittedly, it would have looked better when the transparent dishes would be positioned half a stud deeper and half a stud lower, but I'm not too bothered with it. Here are several pictures showing how the model will look after approximately 10 hours of building time. I love the front view of the car, with the black gear racks in the front bumper/spoiler. And I love how the hood worked out, but that's because I love them curved panels Back of the car looks pretty decent too, although I am not really sure about the rear lights. On the other hand; these kind of shapes are hard to capture in a Technic model. EXTRA FEATURES We have spoken about the technical functions of this model, but obviously there are some extra features as well. These are depicted in the picture below: Open hood/bonnet Open trunk/boot Open doors Adjusting the spoiler (regulate downforce) A bag for storing your racing gear COLORS Take a look at the image below to see some of the color choices TLG has made. What's catching our eye, is that the decision has been made to use a Black 2L axle in the door handle, instead of the usual red one. Kudos for TLG! However, in the rear wheel arch they used a tan frictionless pin and a blue friction pin. Maybe I am missing something, but why did TLG use the tan frictionless pin?! There are no rotating parts in that assembly? Furthermore; wouldn't it have been a great opportunity to use black 3L friction pins throughout the model. This would acknowledge the fact that it's a 16+ set and it would have made bodywork look way better. This would also solve the blue gearbox pins issue. And while we're at it, throw in black axle pins, as the icing on the cake. I understand the regular color policy, but this set being a 16+ set, and the Ultimate, and blabla, well....you catch my drift. 16+ AGE INDICATION This is the right moment to continue the discussion about the 16+ age indication. Asked by Allanp: What makes this set carry the 16+ symbol? It isn't the largest or the most complex set to date, so why the 16+ age thing? To be honest; I am not entirely sure. The build isn't that complex to justify the 16+ indication. My best guess it has something to do with the set being more of a display set than a play set. If it were a real 16+ set, all axles and pins would have been black and the instructions would have had a lot less steps. There's probably a good reason for it, but at the moment I can't explain why this set it 16+. COMPARISON WITH 42039 The picture below shows a comparison with the 42039 - 24 Hours Race car. While it's only 4L wider, you can see it's much longer. The next two pictures show the entire bill of material. A lot of discussion has been going on about the price. It is pretty steep, there's no denying that. But does this set justify spending 300 euros? I have tried to come up with a fair calculation, without any prejudice. Basically it's the same car as the 42039 (24 Hours Race Car), only bigger. Meaning it doesn't have Power Functions, Electronics or Pneumatics. Nor does it have an abundance of very special parts (some new molds and colors, which I will account for later). Both cars use lots of panels to make them look nice (don't get me wrong, I love panels). In my opinion a comparison with the 42039 is justified. I can even add the 42000 Grand Prix Racer to the equation. Also a car, more or less same scale as the Porsche, no Power Functions, Pneumatics, whatsoever. So let's do the math. The 24 Hours Race Car has an MSRP (Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price) of 100 euro (same goes for the 42000). The Porsche has an MSRP of 300 euro, which makes it three times more expensive. The 42039 has 1219 parts (1141 for the Grand Prix Racer), so the Porsche should have around 3657 (or 3423 parts). Let's take the average, round it down and make it 3500 parts. 3500 versus 2704 parts. Something doesn't add up. Why am I missing around 800 parts?! Based on the 42039 and 42000, a Technic set like this should end up with a price per part around 8,5 cents (the average of 8,2 and 8,8 cents). Meaning the Porsche should have cost around 230 euro, but it doesn't. So, the conclusion of this little calculation is that you are paying 70 euro for added value. What can be considered added value? A nice book, special box (and packaging), new rims, and an official Porsche license. I don't think that counting the book as added value is fair, since any set of around 3000 parts will have a pretty thick book. The book actually contains around 40 pages without instructions. So around 7% percent of the book is added value. This seems negligible when it comes to printing costs. This leaves you with the box (including extra packaging) and the license. We've probably all seen the video where you see the packaging process, which is mostly done manually. Let's say the box and extra packaging adds another 10 euro. Still 60 euro to allot. For those of you who haven't seen the video; LEGO Technic Porsche 911 GT3 RS Sneak Peek from LEGO Factory in Kladno: Some new molds have been created (rims, fenders, panels) and a lot of parts in orange for the first time. Imagine this this eats up another 10 euro per set. This leaves you with 50 euros for the Porsche license. Maybe I underestimate the new rims/molds, booklet or packaging. That could very well be the case. But it's a fact that this model is relatively more expensive than the 42039 or 42000. Simple mathematics, no more, no less. I'll let you decide whether the added value is worth paying the extra bucks Almost at the end of my review, it's time to summarize how I feel about this set. Usually I am not overly critical. I acknowledge the fact that at the end of the day, LEGO is a toy. However, this is a different ball game. Being a 16+ set and TLG calling it The Ultimate made it clear that this set means serious business. UCS TECHNIC First of all I am really pleased to see TLG venturing into the Technic realms of what's commonly referred to as Ultimate Collector Series in the Star Wars theme. We've seen hints about this being the first in a new series, so I surely hope to see more models like the Porsche. UNBOXING EXPERIENCE When the set arrived I was on cloud nine. This is more than your run of the mill Technic set, so I was really excited to get building. This excitement continued during the unboxing phase. The box has a deluxe appearance and it's filled with nicely packed goodies. All in black and orange, which absolutely looks stunning. THE BOOK The books which has been included contains some cool additional information about the Porsche. Mainly before the start of the build though. The vast majority contains building instructions. Being a coffee table book, a hardcover would have been cool. It's no biggie that it's not though. THE BUILD The technical part of the build is concentrated in the first box, meaning that after 38% of the build you are done with the functional parts, leaving 62% of the build adding cosmetics. This is somewhat underwhelming. I really enjoyed 'the marriage' phase though, which gives you the feeling that you are actually building a car. TECHNICAL FEATURES Unfortunately, when it comes to technical accuracy there's a lot left to be desired. No active suspension management or rear axle steering. So two of the most interesting potential features have been omitted. Being the Ultimate it would have been cool to see both, or at least one of, these functions implemented in the model. GEARBOX The flappy paddle gearbox is supposed to be the star of the show. It's absolutely cool that TLG has implemented this feature. However, the mistake in the building instructions leaves you with an incorrect shifting sequence. This issue will most likely be corrected in a later version and/or an errata will be provided. I am not sure whether TLG will address the gearbox locking issue. This being a display model, I don't think this issue will be noticeable for the majority of the builders. The fact that Reverse has the same number of gears as the Drive mode is not accurate, but for me this is an acceptable choice. The flappy paddles could have been implemented in a way that you can actually operate the paddles, without touching the rubber bands constantly. PRINTED PARTS The RS 1x1 round tiles on the rims have been printed, which is nice! Makes you wonder why the 1x1 tile on the steering wheel (with Porsche emblem) hasn't been printed. It's plus that the wheel arches have been printed. This ensures the model still looking good after a decade on the shelf. At that time the rubber bands will be petrified and will most likely break when operating the gearbox. Therefor, it would have been great if TLG provided an extra set of elastic bands, for future use. PIN COLORS TLG has used a black 2L axle in the door handle, which definitely looks better than red ones. However, they haven't included 3L black pins. Instead they still used the blue ones. If you decide to use black 2L axles, why not use 3L black pins in several places. WOW FACTOR I showed it to some friends (non AFOLs) and the only interesting thing to show is the gearbox. Which actually doesn't really present well, since you don't see what's happening. You don't even see the pistons moving faster. Basically there's not much to demonstrate, other than it's an impressively big model. A very good looking, yet slightly boring, model. PRICE I have devoted an entire chapter on the price of this model, of which the conclusion was that you pay around 70 euros for added value. It depends on the type of LEGO buyer or builder you are (and the size of your wallet) whether this is justified. The price tag of 300 euro seems a bit steep for what you get in return, so I can imagine some of you will wait for a nice deal to emerge. CONCLUSION TLG definitely brings a unique experience, and I really like the looks of the model. However, the feeling that this "could have been" a better set predominates. That being said, I still think it's a must have for every LEGO Technic car enthusiast. It looks cool when you put it on display. And it offers lots of possibilities to modify. Or like brunojj1 phrased it: Seems to me like the Porsche delivers a perfect base for MODing and MOCing variations such as B-models or PF upgrades to make it a real ULTIMATE. If you are looking for the perfect set, you better look further. If you are looking for a unique Technic set with great potential, this is the set for you! ...and with this bombshell it's time to end Leaves us with the scores. 9 DESIGN This definitely is a 911 GT3 RS! 8 BUILDING EXPERIENCE Build itself is okay, the total experience adds a point. 5 FEATURES It lacks two functions and the major function is flawed. 6 PLAYABILITY This being a display model, it's virtually non-playable. 9 PARTS New rims, entire range of orange panels and new orange parts. 7 VALUE FOR MONEY Depends on your budget, purpose to buy it and other motives. 7,3 COULD HAVE BEEN BETTER I really wish TLG would have been more clear about the embargo rules. Pictures and videos were popping up everywhere on the Internet, while the review embargo stated the 1st of June. Additionally, the set already seemed to be available at some locations. Other than that, I still enjoyed the ride and I'd like to thank TLG for providing me this set! Thanks you for reading this review. All pictures can be found in my album.
  6. Jan-'17 Now, building instruction file (PDF) is available at Rebrickable linked below http://www.rebrickable.com/mocs/Modoro/motorized-42056-porsche-911-gt3-rs-version-11 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi.. everyone! This my 2nd posting here, introducing my own renovation(or remodeling) of TECHNIC 42056 PORSCHE 911 GT3 RS. Among the newly released 2016 Lego models, "TECHNIC 42056 PORSCHE 911 GT3 RS" received the best attention before release. In addition to its nice and detailed appearance, now I attempt to review the process of blowing features including RC driving and 4-speed gearbox shifting, and LED lights as well. The video above shows the process of remodeling TECHNIC 42056 PORSCHE 911 GT3 RS and a driving test in the following order. The process of remodeling each part of PORSCHE chassis Driving and steering test of the remodeled PORSCHE chassis The process of binding the renovated chassis to the PORSCHE body Field driving test The main target of this RC remodeling is just a chassis (or power-train) that is composed of front/rear axis, power transmission and steering units. The following figure compares the before and after appearance of the renovated PORSCHE chassis. <Before> <After> The changes and features of the renovated PORSCHE chassis are as follows Mounted drive motors (L-motor x 4) Mounted a steering motor (S-motor x 1) Modified gear shifting method not using the paddle shift remodeling of the 4-speed sequential gearbox for enhanced durability and power transmission efficiency Mounted PF battery (optionally, two batteries) Mounted two SBRICKs for the remote control capability While including all of the above modifications, it maintains the design and major features of the original 42056 model. (rear fake engine room, Hand of God, glove box, toolbox under the hood etc.) This review is divided into a total of 9 sections, and the following videos illustrate the building progress of each section, respectively. part 1: chassis frame remodeling In this section, the main contents of RC motorizing 42056 PORSCHE chassis is largely divided into three sub-parts and will be described as follows . 1) reinforcement of chassis regidity A dictionary meaning of chassis frame is defined as "the frame plus the "running gear" like engine, transmission, drive shaft, differential, and suspension" In the original 42056 model implementing the real PORSCHE 911 GT3 RS in LEGO model, a chassis is composed to support the body, transmissions, front and rear axis, engine etc. By the way, LEGO designers did not consider the RC driving from the stage of planning the TECHNIC 42056 model. Thus the chassis regidity, weakened by adding driving & steering motors, gear-shifting motors and battery boxes, cannot maintain the body shape of its own secure and inhibits the stable driving performance. In order to reinforce the chassis regidity that is more weakened by removing liftarms to mount 4 driving L-motors under the gear-box, 42056 chassis core is newly configured using a total of thress TECHNIC 5x11 liftarms. 2) provision of driving motor mounting space 4 driving L-motors are mounted under the gear box between the driver and front passenger. 3) provision of gear-shifting axle mounting space In the original 42056 model, The transmission and drive shaft axis are designed in the form perpendicular to each other. According to this design, gear shifting can be done accurately, smoothly and sequentially from 1st speed to 4th speed. However in the driving test progress, it turned out that thress 24-toothed bevel gears in driving pathways can not deliver high torque & power to the rear axle and differential gears. Thus, to remove three bevel gears in the pathway of the remodeled 42056 chassis, gear shifting axle is heightened by 3L and driving shaft is connected right to the 4-speed transmissions. part 2: 4-speed sequential gearbox remodeling part 3: control units for the RC gear shifting part 4: driving motors mounting part 5: dashboard remodeling part 6: front/rear axis remodeling part 7: rear engine room remodeling part 8: assembly process of the renovated PORSCHE chassis part 9: binding the renovated chassis to the body of PORSCHE These are all I prepared for the review of the motorized 42056 PORSCHE model. Thanks for reading & watching (-;
  7. This is the second mod I have done to Lego's 42056 Porsche 911 GT3 RS set. I used the same height lift as I used on my previous Porsche mod and moved forward the bottom arms in the front and the rear of the chassis to add negative camber. The car was able to roll without the body on, but once I put it on, it couldn't roll. This means the car is now purely a display model. As much as a JDM fanboy I am, I'm kind of upset with the result of the car not moving, but at least I'm glad that I stanced this car anyways just for the fun of it. Although, quote automotive YouTuber GasKings, the camber angle does seem a bit too much on here like "a baby giraffe taking its first steps." So, what do you think of this mod I have done? Is it CamberGang worthy? I think it looks neat, but I would like to get rid of the camber (and the height lift) so I can roll this car around again. Here's some more pictures of the car I took. Thanks as always for checking this out, and I hope you'll stick around for my next builds.
  8. This is Lego's 42056 Porsche 911 GT3 RS set with some unique rallycross-inspired features I added making it the perfect sports car to drive in the snow. Features Suspension system raised to make the car about two studs higher Wheels and tires from the 42037 Formula Off-Roader Mudflaps LED light bar Front off-road lights Rear bash bars Optional snowplow that attaches to the front The lights are fake and don't turn on, and all of the other lime-colored pieces are from the 42037 set as well. I had a lot of fun making this. I just had to switch of the area of the springs to change the height for the rear without any pieces needed, but for the front, I had to remove the entire Porsche's body to make the lift there using a variety of pieces. Overall, I'm proud that a got the result I wanted, which was making the Porsche 911 GT3 RS higher (so it wouldn't bottom out) and equipping it with off-road features so I could have fun with this set in the winter. It does need to drive in snow only about an inch high so I could move it without getting stuck (and so the plow can move the snow too). I recommend to anyone who has the Porsche set to try these mods out for themselves this winter! Here's some more pictures of the car and a desktop wallpaper that I created wishing everyone at EuroBricks Happy Holidays!
  9. The errata will help you implement the necessary fixes while building the model from scratch. It provides a list of extra parts you need (only 30 small and commonly used parts) and a sequence of steps that serve as a replacement of the corresponding steps in the original building instructions. All can be found in this PDF. The following summarizes what has been included concerning the gear shifting mechanism: I applied Paul Boratko's gear sequence fix as described in Jim's review. I flipped the change-over-catches in paddle-shifter-unit by 180 degrees (as suggested by Attika). I added the simple 90° limiter to the gear selector axle; used two of the four white silicon bands. I removed the 8 tooth gears used to add friction; minimized friction in the selector axle instead. I used only one silicon band for each paddle shifter; wrapped it around the neck of the ball joint once. I extended both change-over-catches in the gearbox with half a stud (more info here). The following summarizes what has been included concerning the drive train: I removed the pin-joiner in the D+N+R-gearbox. Original idea suggested by Blakbird, see his detailed build report. I avoided red gears from transferring torque on axles rotating at different speed, see eliminate friction in gearbox. I added an extra support for the 15L axle running from D+N+R gearbox to differential, see alternative axle scheme. I avoided axle connectors from rubbing against lift-arms as suggested by nerdsforprez, see alternative axle scheme. I replaced the white clutch gear with a gearless friction clutch, see alternative axle scheme and white gear replacement. Now I could gear up the engine: Replaced the 2 16t gears with a pair of 24t-8t gears, see eliminate friction in gearbox. The errata include a 4th-to-1st gear block, but do not provide instructions for additional features like HoG steering or a removable body. I was a little bit in doubt whether to include all changes to the axle scheme or not. Blakbird - who has test-driven this set of modifications, thanks for that! - was already satisfied without applying all changes to avoid connectors from rubbing against liftarms. I decided to include them anyway, beacuse I think it's simply a matter of good practice and since these errata are specifically useful when you build the model from scratch, it's an easy gain. For all MODs that are included in the errata I made a LDD-file of Box 1. showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup containing the old structure and a subgroup containing the new structure. All new structures are embedded in the complete chassis and all old structures are placed to the side of the chassis. By clicking on a subgroup you select all parts in that group. That way you can inspect the differences. Besides the modifications listed above the LDD-file contains HoG steering. If there is anything unclear or if you find errors, please let me know. The idea is to make thing more fun, so all should be clear and correct. Thanks to everybody who shared his/her improvements!
  10. I decided to open a seperate topic for this beast. Inspired by Letsbuild's idea to crawlify a Lego set, i decided to go full crazy and try to upgrade the biggest, heaviest and most orange set to date, Porsche 911 GT3 RS. First thing I built was the front axle, which uses the H frame as a placeholder for bewel gear, so there it no possible way of them to slip: Those with sharp eyes may notice the gears are not aligned, this was done in LDD development mode, more info soon The drive than goes directly to portal hubs with 1:3 gear ratio, giving the model 1:5 gear ratio on each wheel. Front axle also has a servo motor which steers the wheels and powers the Porsche's original steering wheel via a ball joint Rear axle powers the Porsche's gearbox via a couple of clutch gears in order to allow different motor speeds when steering or skid steering - Yes, this 4 kilogram heavy model can even skid steer thanks to its independent motor control. Here is the end result As with the original set, I kept the rear axle 2 studs wider than the front: For suspension I used 4 hard springs, which are hald compressed thanks to the model's immense weight. Due to the porsche's wide chassis springs are quite far apart, so the flex angle is not really big, but on the other hand that makes the model much more stable. Performance wise the crawler works very good, despite its massive weight, so far I had no broke U joints or gears and it has enough torque to skid its wheels on hard surface. Expect more pictures soon and a video soon.
  11. Mirco Hussmann

    42056 Falken Porsche Mod

    Hello everyone! As this is my first real topic in this forum after a few years of reading silently, I will say the following about myself: I'm from Germany, just finished the Abitur and I love cars as well as Lego (Technic), especially Porsche, and I will probably start studying mechanical engineering this year. Sooo, this project was a pretty huge thing for me in the last few months. As a huge fan of their cars, when the Lego Porsche was announced I knew I needed it, and got it early this year. When it stood in front of me on the table, finished, I already thought about how awesome it would be to mod the sh*t out of this monster. I started with technical modifications on the gearbox, adding working door knobs, gearing the steering wheel up to have a rotation close to 900°, filling some holes in the body and including Didumos' Ackermann steering mod. After various tries, I kind of rebuilt the chassis for rc use. While the servo was pretty easy to throw in (while it was tight and a perfect fit), the whole gearbox flew out for 4 M-Motors. While at first I had one technic battery box laying on top of the rear suspension cover, I soon changed this solution to having two train bbs in the engine bay. The gear driving the differential which comes from the motors required the fake engine to be moved down as far as it goes, but this gave me the possibility to keep it inside. Next thing to do was the lighting, which I did by using the cables of broken PF motors to connect 10 white 9V LEDS from ebay. I then continued to see something new to be improved everyday and fix this one or that one, until I finally decided (about 2 months ago), that it is time to move on to the real stuff. So i bought RAL 6019 (the green one), RAL 5002 (blue) and RAL 9005 (black), 1200 ml each, and just started spray painting the parts. I did the panels and small parts laying on a metal sheet, rear side first, while I did the liftarms by putting them on a string with the middle hole so they spin when being sprayed. While the most turned out well after the first few rounds of painting, some got pretty ugly when drying, which I fixed by sanding the parts and spraying a thin layer over it. While the parts were still drying and between the paiting rounds I already did the interieur - removing the right seat, changing the seat colour to gray/black, removing the shifter knob, replacing the old dashboard, changing the steering wheel to a more GT3-style-thingy, adding a fore extinguisher and changing the orange cage to black. I also ordered the neon-yellowish headlight bricks, which looks hella awesome at night or even more in twilight. At this point, technical improvements had all been made, I solely focused on asthetics. When I was finished with the colouring, I had to decide how I would do the stickers. After I saw the extremely low prices for custom stickers on websites of printing companies (about 200€), I looked for alternatives. I saw a YT-video with a technique I didn't think of till then which worked surprisingly well. All the stickers on the car are made this way. Finally, a list of all the modifications: - Full RC, 4 M-Motors, 1 Servomotor, 2 Train BB's, 2 IR Receivers with nearly invisible placement that doesn't disturb the looks - steering wheel upgearing - several body fixes - head- and rear lights, neon headlight bricks - spray painted bricks and custom stickers - change of the mounting of the rear shocks so they are more stiff to carry the heavier weight of the engine bay - (still) working and repositioned flat 6 despite the rc mod - interieur, wheel and dashboard changes - new centerlock wheel nut bricks (no RS anymore :D) - carbon fiber covered exhaust pipes, that front thingy panels (no idea what the english word is ^^) and - diffusor - chassis changes to make rc mod possible While these were all my own mods, I also used two mods from other guys: - El Squattore's working door knob mod adapted to the large shocks - Didumos' Ackermann steering, also changed a bit because I was missing a few of the bricks. Man, I can't tell how many times I thought i just threw 200€ into the trash by f***ing up some of the bricks when painting them, but I think in the end it worked out more than just well. :) There's probably a video/car porn coming as soon as I find time and a nice location for it. Anyway, thanks for reading and let me know what you think of this thing!
  12. I’m not sure if this deserves an own topic because there is already the MODs and improvements-topic for the 42056 Porsche (http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/133743-42056-porsche-911-gt3-rs-mods-and-improvements/). But because that topic is after almost 30 pages quite cluttered and from time to time always the same complaints and questions about the flaws of 42056 came up I thought I could be worth to make a write up about a Porsche-package which is flawless full featured easy to rebuild preserving 100% the really gorgeous looks of the stock model moderate in additional costs based onto the incredible valuable work of @Didumos69 and its unofficial errata and some other MODs made by him Feature summary: If you apply all MODs listed below then you will get a Porsche with: Smooth and full working gear-train for a freely pushable car in all gears with and 100% reliable gear-shifting, no gearbox stalls anymore, correct gear sequence, no endless shifting Gear indicator at the dashboard for checking gear-state at a glance Realistic reverse-mode behavior of the center gear-mode-stick which prevents from engaging reverse-mode from all gears but first gear A new paddle-shifter module which has better and more realistic looks and slightly lighter operation Much better front-axle layout with strong enough suspension for the weight, preserved ground clearance, better geometry, less bump steer, better steering lock and ackerman steering A more rigid chassis which does not bent even without body A Hand of Good (HoG) for easy steering which results in much better playablity Very fast and easy removable (and of course attachable) bodyby just pulling (rsp. pushing) 11 red pins with bush: important for mechanics demonstration Lockable Doors Foldable bonnet holder for lockable bonnet in open state Filled black "hole" below headlights First of all some background, some remarks about the problems of the stock version of the Porsche, so about the reasons for such a topic. Luckiliy there are solutions for all problems of the stock Porsche: The first serious problem (gearbox and shifting) is completely fixed by the errata of @Didumos69 but the second serious one (front axle) is only fixed by his ultimate playable Porsche. But luckily again there is a Porsche out there which contains all these needed fixes and solutions (and some more) in one package which is available with full blown PDF-BI at rebrickable: @jb70 “Pimp up my Porsche”. BTW: with this package none of the above mentioned workarounds of TLG are necessary; they are completely thrown away. I would recommend everyone who wants to build the Porsche, who wants to build a flawlessly and very well working Porsche: Do not waste time by building the stock Porsche but start with the “Pimp up my Porsche” by @jb70 – and do all your own MODing onto this base… ;-) Well, here we go… The base package Go to rebrickable and get the BI for the “Pimp up my Porsche” MOD by @jb70 : http://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-8003/jb70/42056-pimp-up-my-porsche/#comments - The BI are free and also free from errors and flaws (there are only four very small exceptions, see below). Remark: You will need only 179 very common and mostly cheap parts in addition to the 42056 set to build this Porsche by jb70 – the overall costs would be about 20 to 30€ when you need to buy all additional parts – the real costs strongly depend on your spare parts inventory ;-) Just built this "Pimp up my Porsche" from jb70 - very enjoyable build, great instructions, incorporates all essential MODs you need to change the mediocre retail 42056 in a really great set, now also functionwise: stronger front suspension (retail is much too weak) with much better geometry with less bump steer und Ackerman steering - also with much better steering lock outstanding gear indexer (= 90 degree limiter) so gear-switching is now 100% reliable, so NO gearbox stalling anymore fixed step-5 error in the BI and in addition much better gear-arrangement of the whole gearbox for frictionless spinning of the complete drivetrain in all gears - the car now runs absolute free and smooth when pushed over the table - even in 1st gear preventing from endless gear-sequence (ie. now you can’t switch from 4 to 1 or from 1 to 4 corrected gear-sequence reinforced chassis so the chassis does not bend even without body HoG (essential for playablity) fast and easy removeable body (essential for demonstrating all the internal goodies) All fixes from the unofficial errata of Didumos69 are applied and in addition some important goodies of his ultimate playable Porsche - all that stuff compiled into great PDF-instructions, even for free! This means all problems I described above are fixed, Many Thanks @Didumos69 , many thanks @jb70 ! Well, there are 4 small errors rsp. recommendations for changes within the BI of jb70: 1. Error in BI: The blue 2L pin at step 59 (page 60) is not needed 2. Error in design and BI: The front-calipers are mounted in a faulty manner: they will rub against the inner side of the rims which prevents the car from running smoothly when pushed along. Solution: use a thin 1x2 liftarm and an axle with towball (instead of a pin with towball) for connecting the steering links to the hub and then build the front calipers as shown in the stock BI (page 152, step 212) and Bob will be your uncle – see pic below: 3. Recommendation: I recommend to omit the pin-clutch of Didumos69 - This means replace at step 38 (page 32) the two blue pins with one axle 4L --> the Didumos-errata-based jb70-Porsche does not need this clutch because the gear-box works now 100% reliable and it never stalls... in contrary: the clutch has the disadvantage that it can chips in when not necessary cause of too low friction of the pins! Without this clutch all is working like a charm and the pistons just fly ;-) But of course it is not necessary to omit this clutch - but then you should ensure that you use two pins with really high friction!. 4. Recommendation: jb70s Porsche already contains the wonderful MOD of Hispabricks for a fast and easy removeable body – but this can be optimized a little bit: Just fix the seats completely at the body so not connection between seats and chassis remains. For that do not mount the LBG 2x4 liftarm in step 19 (page 7) and all parts attached to it. They are not needed anymore. Mount the seats in step 47 at page 173 as shown in the pic below - see yellow circle. Now the body is even faster removeable and completely independed from the chassis (Thanks to @DayWalker for this small but valuable MOD). That’s all – apart from these small changes the BI of jb70 are errorfree: ready for a full and flawless working Porsche. When finished jb70s Porsche you have already a Porsche with smooth and flawless working features and with great playability. If you want to go further you can easily apply the following MODs which add a lot of realism and even better operation. Additional MODs on top of the “Pimp up my Porsche” base-package: Dashboard gear-indicator and realistic reverse-mode behavior: A well visible(!) gear indicator is IMO an essential feature for a sequential gear box. The following MOD offers exactly this and the needed mechanic is fully invisible: the needed mechanic is completely hidden behind the black curved panels of the center console. The stock behavior of the reverse mode is completely unrealistic because it allows to engage reverse regardless of the current active gear – IMO the requirements are as follows: reverse gear has a high reduction-ratio (in this case the same as first gear) engaging reverse (or neutral) mode is not possible if another gear than 1st is engaged, ie. it does NOT allow to shift from 4th (and also not from 3rd and 2nd) gear to neutral and back in reverse mode you are prevented from switching gears - so in reverse-mode you HAVE JUST ONE possible gear-ratio (see 1) This MOD implements exactly this. And it does it so that it is fully invisible and the needed mechanic is completely hidden behind the black curved panels of the center console. Here is a pic which shows both MODs built into the jb70-Porsche – you see that you don’t see anything unless the blue indicator at the dashboard – which is good in this case ;-). Here I have described both MODs in detail and also how to integrate into the jb70-Porsche: Here can you find a a lot of pics of the internals and instruction hints how to integrate both MODs into the jb70-Porsche base: http://bricksafe.com/pages/Kumbbl/MODs/porsche-42056/gear-indicator-and-reverse-gear-mode Here is an example pic of my bricksafe-folder so you can see how detailed the explanations are: Kudos and many thanks to @DayWalker who has developed both of these MODs. I have only integrated them into the jb70-Porsche and have done only some very small improvements. Both MODs can be very easily integrated in jb70's Porsche implementation. The few needed changes are very obvious and easy to manage. But you have to take into account them from the beginning, ie. from page 1 of the BI of jb70. All integration changes have to be done between step 1 and 23 (pages between 1 and 17) – especially the gear indicator can not be integrated later one – there are essential changes at page 1 of the BI of jb70 which can’t be done in no way later on! New paddle shifter unit with lighter operation and more realistic angled steering wheel @Didumos69 has developed an improved paddle-shifter unit: Well, it’s a quite clever mechanism which allows slighty lighter operations. But its main advantage is the better look cause of the angled steering wheel and the almost (because of inside mounted) invisible rubber bands. So this new paddle-shifter shifts an already very good and 100% reliable stock shifter (but only with Didumos’ innovative 90 degree limiter and indexer which is part of the jb70s package) to an almost perfect gearbox-shifter. Overall I rate it as very well designed and a nice addon which is really worth of building and integrating into the jb70-Porsche but IMHO it’s not a must have because the retails shifter contained in the jb70-Porsche works really well. Here are two pics of the new shifter module: Anyway, here I have described in detail how to integrate into the jb70-Porsche: Lockable doors and foldable bonnet holder: @el Squatterhas developed a very clean and nifty MOD for lockable doors. They are dead simple to integrate into the jb70-Porsche without any side effects. Myself has developed a very small but nevertheless usefull MOD – a foldable bonnet holder. The holder can be very easily locked in open state. I added this MOD because the opened bonnet with rear spoiler is the only way to get a glimpse of moving pistons when the body is mounted. But the bonnet+rear spoiler is too heavy for staying reliable open when the car is pushed around (because it is just hold by the friction of two pins). Therefore I added the following lockable holder. For locking the opened bonnet just pull the center joint a little bit backwards then it will be locked and the bonnet will stay opened. For closing just fully open the bonnet and the holder will automatically fold down when you close the bonnet. Here I have described both MODs in detail: Cosmetic: Filling the large black gap below the headlights Several people have complained about the huge black hole below the head-lights. Me too. Therefore I have added a dead simple fix for it: I really don’t understand why TLG has not applied this very cheap and also very obvious enhancement which make the model looking even more awesome. Summary: Overall I would rate this Porsche now as an excellent supercar with outstanding exterior and great and very well working functions which can easily compete with all of the supercar MOCs out there… And most important: A successfull build doesn’t depend anymore on your luck but only on your building skills and your ability to follow exactly and carefully the provided BI (supplemented by some photos for integrating some MODs into the base package of jb70) And If you want to give your Porsche the icing onto the cake I recommend you the wonderful stickers by Walter Spierenburg (see topic link below the pic) which really adds very much optical value – see pic below: @Jim: I have used a pic from your original topic - i hope this is ok but your photos are so good i could not resist ;-) - here is the original topic for this wonderful stickers (really high quality and fast shipping - i'm really hooked. Last but not least: Many thanks and kudos to @Didumos69, @jb70, @DayWalkerand @el Squatter which brought all these wonderful MODs to the table. I have only complied them into one - now full featured - model and integrated them into the great basis “Pimp up my Porsche” by jb70.
  13. - Be cautious, I can't guarantee that stretching the balloon tire like this over a long time won't disform the tire - I have a deal with @DugaldIC that my next build will be a motorized model (his next build will be a HoG-model). This is very challenging for me, because I never did something with LEGO motors. I don't even own one. I'm thinking about a 4x4 off-road model with knob wheel drive. I want to use the Porsche rims - not because of their looks, but because of their deep offset - but I couldn't accept the use of third party off-road tires without first trying to see what I can do with 100% LEGO parts. So I have been puzzling with wrapping the 94.8 x 44 R Balloon Tire around the Porsche rims - which requires quite some force - but I couldn't get both sides of the tire inserted in the wheel ridges. There was allways one side popping out of one of the wheel ridges. But after some trial and error I found an easy way. Just put the Porsche tires inside the balloon tire, make sure you center it prefectly inside the balloon tire and wrap the two tires around the Porsche rim together. The inner tire will span the balloon tire widthwise and makes it easy to insert the tire sides into the wheel ridges. The inner tire also gives the balloon tire a pleasnt sturdy feel.
  14. Just saw this passing by while looking for something else. Thought I'd share it here!
  15. Hi everyone! I have been a Lego enthusiast for years, but since I started school, I never had the time and money to focus on the hobby anymore. However now that I have the time, I do not have the space and need to build my bank. I am mainly Technic flagship and Ultimate Collectors oriented, and I prefer the newer sets as well. I have started a Bricklink store to sell some items I own that are either taking up too much space or I have no interest in it. These items are all new and sealed, and they include: -Lego Technic 42056 Porsche 911 GT3 RS (I do not like supercars generally, despite being Technic) -$349.99 CAD -Lego Technic 8480 Space Shuttle -$800 CAD -Lego Technic 8860 Car Chassis -$850 CAD -Lego Star Wars 7965 Millennium Falcon -$260 CAD -and Lego Creator 10226 SOPWITH CAMEL (will be added to the store soon ~CAD$185) Prices are a bit lower than its competition, only because I do not aim for high profits and just want the buyer to make the most out of it...and free up space in my home :) All are brand new except model 8860, box is open, and the black beams sit freely in the box (do not remember if they came in a bag or not), but all the bags and books are factory sealed and new, never opened or built. Many of the sets are old and vintage, and I will add more as I determine if I want to keep the set or not that I find. Also, I live in Canada so shipping will be determined on the weight/size of the Lego set and distance. I can do local pickups if you live around Toronto, ON. -My business email is: 1awansua@gmail.com -My bricklink store it: https://store.bricklink.com/legomaster1686&utm_content=globalnav#/shop?o={"showHomeItems":1} -My eBay only has model 8480 Space Ship added to it at the moment, but I will add the rest to it soon if you prefer buying off eBay: http://www.ebay.ca/usr/usamawa0?_trksid=p2047675.l2559
  16. Sincerely, I apologize if this creates too much commotion, there already has been so much hubaloo about this already. Jim, forgive me if this is redundant of what is already in the Porsche thread... but this question burns me and I dont want to infiltrate the Porsche thread anymore with what is below. I don't understand the commotion about the new Porsche price tag. Is this a case of members just being emotional or is there some objective grounds for the frustration? This is nothing in-depth, I am moving offices and therefore don't have access to my stats software and am too lazy to really calculate anything (not to mention really small sample) but check out the large sets in the past seven years or so of price per piece values..... AROCS 8.2 42009 8.4 Uh-40 9.8 Heavy L helicopter 13.4 24 hour race car 10.7 Crwler crane 10.7 Crgo plane 10.8 Volvo 15.3 Grand prix 11.4 Service truck 10.2 9396 11.4 9397 10.7 9398 15.1 8070 9.4 8043 17.8 8053 7.8 Tractor with trailer 9.1 ( I only went back seven years or so... going back further inflation really would begin to make a difference) I don't really see anything out of the ordinary. The price tag of the Porsche looks like normal variation to me. Yes, most of the above sets have PF. But not all. In fact, the Grand Prix racer (42000) didn't and its PPP value is actually HIGHER (11.4) than the Porsche (11.1). You didn't hear all the clamor about that set as you do with the Porsche. Same with 9396. Higher than the Porsche and no PF functions. No licensing, no special packaging, nothing. Yet, per piece, it was more expensive. All the HL Helicopter has for PF is a battery box and M motor and it costs 13.4 center PP. Take away those items (lets assume fair value is $10 for battery box and 8 for the motor) and you have a price of 11.7 PP. Quite a bit more than the Porsche. The Volvo Loader, which we all agreed was expensive.... was 15.3 PP. But chock-full of PF right? So that justified the price tag--- right? Well, even if we took away ONE-FOURTH of its price tag... (like 62.50) ... its PPP would still be higher than the Porsche (249.99-62.50 = 187.49 / 1636 = 11.5). Similarly, you can take away over one-third of the price tag of 8043 and it would still be more expensive (according to PPP) than the Porsche. Is it possible that we are over-reacting a bit to the pricing? Is it possible that we are looking at a social phenomenon versus something where there is objective evidence to support the price hype?
  17. So, this is the set TBB already dubbed a "breathtaking perfection" (because it's pretty, you know) and a whole lot of people will buy it just for looks. Unfortunately, I see a Technic badge in there, and Technic line used to be about something more than just looks. That's why I'm going to review it considering its functions, and to put it shortly, when it comes to functions the 42056 feels like a slap to your face. Sorry TBB, someone has to do the ugly job of raining on your parade. This is literally the most expensive set in the entire Technic line, a set which is being promoted by Lego as if their lives depended on it. It's literally being announced as "ultimate supercar" and "art of engineering". Well, bad news. The art of engineering 2016 edition looks like that: - no PF in sight, literally no electronics, nor an easy way to make this set RC - dead simple suspension that has been done dozens of times. Were you wishing for something fancy, maybe McPherson struts, Ackermann steering, caster angle? Too bad, the suspension is the same as in $60 sets. - dead simple steering with new wheel hubs added only so Lego could pretend there are brakes. All these fancy new wheel hubs and fancy new wheels still don't turn in the center like 8448 set's wheels do. - Lego could give us working brakes. Lego could at least give us a realistically looking calipers and maybe some nice brake discs. Instead, Lego gave us a 1x4 tile with a sticker. - a transmission that takes half of a chassis, then works poorly and doesn't really do anything useful Seriously, for $300, which is the money that will buy you e.g. both new Claas tractor and Volvo excavator, you get a bunch of beams, panels and gears. Note how short the parts list is. What this money gets you is a big, great-looking car that is only really good for display. Functions? Steering with a lot of backlash, ridiculously simple suspension and transmission whose main job is making grinding sounds. Yeah, really, the transmission has so much friction in it, Lego actually threw a 24t clutch gear in there to let the wheels rotate when transmission locks up from abundance of friction. Someone had this weird idea to make a 4-speed sequential transmission and then add a separate forward/reverse selector to it, resulting in up to TWENTY gear wheels being active at the same time. And the best part? Well, there are two: first, the transmission only affects the piston engine, and you can't really see it because it's all covered up under the body. So the only real job for transmission is to change the frequency of the grinding sounds. Second, the transmission's speeds are actually messed up because as Crowkillers has noticed, someone put two gear wheels wrong in the instructions. Thus, for a paltry $300 you get a transmission that goes 1-3-2-4. Art of engineering indeed. The biggest problem with the 42056 is the price. Consider 42055: it's bigger and has PF, yet its price-per-piece is much lower. If Porsche had the same price-per-piece, it would cost around $192 - a not unreasonable comparison since these sets are released at the same time. So what's the extra $100 for? Just the Porsche license and a fancy box? For that kind of money you can get a proper RC car from an established manufacturer, with high performance motors and waterproof electronics. Yet Lego expects you to cough it up for something that can, um, look pretty (if you don't mind the gaping holes, that is). Pros: - really big, impressive and exquisitely looking unless you hate orange - finally it's not red again - the box and instructions are so good, they make UCS sets look like something you drew in class when you were 10 - a lot of new useful pieces, including the wheels - superb "starter pack" for those who want to build their own supercars Cons: - this is a $300 set with roughly $192 worth of Lego pieces - the "art of engineering" can't hold a candle to the 8880 - seriously, there's barely any function in this set that works flawlessly or makes actual sense. But hey, you get a luggage compartment and a bag with Porsche logo so who cares, right? - there's no PF nor an easy way to add PF - size, weight and limited functionality make it more of a display model - instructions come with an error - there's no B-model - $300 for what? Some comparisons:
  18. Hello everyone Here is an attempt to build a Porsche Spyder. Basis is still the 42056, although it has been modified and rebuilt, approximately 76.5% :wink: The panels are painted ... I think I need to revise still a lot. But everything then after my vacation ... I hope you like the first attempt.
  19. And much, much more here: Want more? Check my full report with a ton of photos: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=134111
  20. With some hints being given that 42056 is just the beginning of a new line of Ultimate Technic sets, what are some of the cars you would like to see made? Personally I would like to see a Lamborghini Aventador, or a Bugatti Veyron (once a few main ideas come up, I'll add a poll).