Captainowie

Eurobricks Citizen
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About Captainowie

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Western Australia
  • Interests
    Technic, Technic and more Technic

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  • Country
    Australia
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    http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/public/style_images/tags/technicgear2.png
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  1. Ah, I was wondering why the site doesn't seem to look the same two days in a row! Knowing that it's to troubleshoot a problem means I will stop swearing under my breath at another change. Good luck! Owen.
  2. GBC General Discussion

    Wow, that's a dense layout.
  3. I made something very similar to that, and put it on floats for a LEGO boat race. It came last of the finishers (but at least it finished!) but generated much discussion.
  4. Lego Boost √úbertopic

    It's Turing Complete - what more could anyone want? :-)
  5. GBC General Discussion

    Zamor spheres and the balls that come with Mindstorms have that large indentation. You _can_ make a GBC out of them, but it's trickier.
  6. Hard-coupling PF motors experiment

    No, the power source is not irrelevant - some types of batteries have a significant voltage dropoff as they start to lose charge. When you're measuring such small differences between motors, that might make a measurable difference, especially between the first and last tests. In any case, an easy way to test two motors against each other would be to have each motor driving one side of a differential - the speed of the diff cage will be proportional to the difference in speed of the motors. Owen.
  7. Storage and Sorting LEGO

    Hi Darryl That is a difficult question to answer. I've been pondering it on and off for a while, and while I haven't sat down and proved it for Technic, I suspect that the logical grouping would require more than three dimensions. To illustrate, with normal LEGO bricks, you'd need a three-dimensional storage system - one each for length, width, and colour. For example, you could have a chest of drawers, with red bricks in the top drawer, blue bricks in the second drawer, yellow bricks in the third drawer etc. In each drawer you'd have an array of containers, with 1xn bricks in the first row, 2xn bricks in the second row, in general, kxn bricks in the kth row. In each row, you'd have kxk bricks in the first container, kx(k+1) in the second container, and so forth. If you add sloped bricks into your collection, that makes for a fourth dimension that you need to logically group your parts. With Technic, consider the set of axles. You'd have one dimension for length, another for colour (gone are the days when they were all black. Gone too are the days when even lengths were black and odd lengths were grey), and another for whether or not the axle has a stop or collar. Now consider the set of pins. You've got one dimension for length, one for whether or not it's got friction ridges, and one for whether or not it's an axle pin. That was before the advent of the 3L pin with axle, and the 3L axle with pin. Clearly in the logical system the 2L axle needs to be adjacent to the axle pin, which means that the whole axle family needs to be orthogonal to the pin family. And then you have the pin-with-pinhole part, which clearly needs to be adjacent to the 1L beam, and adjacent to something in the 2L pin family, which means that the whole beam family needs to be orthogonal to the whole axle/pin mess. In the end, you're limited to the space you have, and only three dimensions, so how you choose to proceed will be determined largely by which constraints you choose to ignore. There are many things discussed in the how-do-you-sort-lego thread that you may find useful (and which this thread is destined to be moved to, if people keep posting "here's how I sort my LEGO"). As for the names of the elements, that's not much easier. There's the internal LEGO name, part number. There's the LDraw name and part number. There's the Bricklink name and part number. There's the Brickset name and part number. Some of these names and numbers are even the same between datasets! Good luck. If you manage to find a general solution, please let us know! Owen.
  8. Technic Link Tread 3873

    There are lots of ways to attach things to those treads, but each with their own challenges. As you've found, you can put a tile or plate over the links. 1x3 plates work too, but they're not much better than the 1x4 case. There are elements that are small enough to go through the holes in the tread - I've used pneumatic T-pieces here. I think anything that clips into a minifig hand should go through those holes. Finally, the tread link itself fits snugly into a technic hole. You might be able to get what you want by using some of the wide variety of technic connectors etc. Hope this helps Owen
  9. Torque question

    A M motor geared down 1:3 goes at pretty much exactly the same speed as an XL motor geared down 3:5, and the XL motor will have significantly more torque at those speeds.
  10. [WIP] Moving Saw Arm Mechanism

    That's one use for it, sure. But you could certainly use a diff in this case too, with one output moving the arm back and forth, and the other output rotating the blade. As long as it takes more torque to rotate the blade than it does to move the arm, then when the motor turns forward, the arm moves out until it hits its stop, then the blade turns - the reverse happens when the motor turns backwards. You could possibly add in a ratchet if you didn't want to have the blade turning when the arm is retracting, but then you stall the motor when the arm retracts fully. Owen.
  11. GT3 Racer (wip)

    If that's your motivation, then you're doing it wrong. Build for yourself, pay no heed to a bunch of anonymous strangers on the Internet.
  12. Beautiful. A masterful improvement over the original in every way. Owen.
  13. I am surprised you couldn't find _one_ eleven year old keen to drive a robot around. I would have loved to do that as a kid (heck, I'd probably still get a kick out of it at 35!)
  14. Impossible LEGO

    That doesn't look like it'd do much more than back end of a brick separator.
  15. I don't know how much of a problem depth is for you, but I'd suggest using full beams rather than half beams to join the bricks together. Those 3/4 pins are very loose. You might even be able to get some additional strength by running a 1x6 or 1x8 plate under the join. Owen.