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Found 11 results

  1. Normally, RC cars can't roll free, when an electric motor is off, due to reduction inside the motor. As a result - no free rolling, no inertia. Sudden starting and stopping. Robotic movement. In my RC car a clutch is automatically enabling/disabling, once the motor is on/off respectively. It's similar to a real life driving, where you can alternate acceleration and free rolling in a neutral gear. 1 PF L-motor for propulsion 1 PF Servo-motor for steering
  2. Hello everybody! This is the first MOC I present on Eurobricks. My most popular MOC yet is the 3 speed auto gearbox ( But now to this gearbox: At first ask yourself this question: Which sense has a normal D-N-R gearbox in a manual technic car? It has no sense. It makes no difference if you are in the forward gear or in te reserve. But with this D-N-R gearbox it makes a difference, because if you are in the forward gear, you can not push the car backward and if you switch in the reserve gear, you can not push the car forward. If you want to build this gearbox into a technic car, you have to connect the grey connectors to the wheels and one of the black ones to the fake engine. For more information check out this MOC on rebrickable (maybe it is not approved yet): No I wanted to ask you, what you think about this D-N-R gearbox? Here is an video of my gearbox:
  3. Howdy folks. Like many of you I'm sure, I'm taking the time to do a bit of building in the time off between Christmas and New Year. I've come across this little design that I haven't seen before, and thought I'd share in case someone finds it useful. If you would normally be using one of those white 24-tooth clutch gears (that slip after a certain torque is reached) but the torque limit for that gear is too high, or you can't fit the spur gear easily in your drivetrain, you may find this construction useful: Now, I accept that in practice it could be trick to work this into a MOC - the gear can only be supported one one side (unless you put a pin-joiner on the end and extend the axle from that) and a stud away from the support at that. But these aren't insurmountable, and if it's all you have, then you'll make do! On the other hand, it's also useful if you want to _add_ friction to a drivetrain for whatever reason. An alternative to sticking a normal gear on a friction pin. Owen.
  4. All electric, 3 seat, "baby" Porsche concept car. In real life it would be exactly the same size as the original 911. Independent suspension, 4 wheel drive, 4 wheel steering and a servo operated clutch on both axels. It is full RC so it can drive and steer but can also use the clutch to free wheel and brake - just like a real electric car. It was inspired by Ferry Porsche's Typ 52 3 seat sports car from 1933, the Mission E concept from 2015 and many Porsches in between.
  5. Hey there guys! I finally got myself an S-brick, i wanted to test it out so i built this go-kart. Functions: - 2 gears gearbox - auto clutch - braking system - differential The vehicle turned out to be pretty fast and with a great handling, unfortunately i need to wait some better weather to shoot a video of it and a bigger place as well. Like in a real kart there's no reverse gear so i'll probably need something like a parking lot to test it out. The gearbox is working great with the buttons of the S-brick operating the M motor I hope you'll like it!
  6. I'm trying to design a realistically functioning model of a diesel locomotive. I don't care about looks at this point, given how limited my collection is, but what I'm wanting to aim for is a locomotive that appears to operate realistically. The chassis is going to be 6 studs wide for now as a prototype, and 46 studs long. In order of the drivetrain, it's going to be M-motor -> one way clutch -> flywheel -> forward/reverse gearbox -> trucks. This should allow the locomotive to realistically creep forward, move, and slow down gradually as if it were an actual diesel locomotive with a fluid drive transmission, or like HarmanMotor's fluid drive bus. The only problem I'm encountering so far is a compact, low friction one way clutch design. I've tried the one design made with the 3 rubber 2 stud lifters, but that doesn't work. It's too large and I can't get it to function properly without a large flywheel which wouldn't fit in the body, or base of the locomotive. I'm trying to design something compact enough you could put it inside the base or body of any diesel or electric loco, and dramatically improve the functionality. Any help?
  7. The title says it all. I searched for a topic like this but was unable to find anything. I am wondering if leaving Lego pieces/sets assembled causes them to lose their clutch power over time? If so, does it come back when you take them apart? Currently I have all my LotR and Hobbit sets assembled and displayed in glass cabinets. I have all of my Lego minifigures lined up on base plates and stored in containers. I keep them all assembled because I am anal and worried they will get scratched up if I just throw them all in a tub together, or break them down and store them by parts in a jumbled mess. At the same time though, I noticed on the minifigures especially that they seem to be losing a lot of clutch power in their feet where they are connected to the base plates. This makes me wonder if all the pieces are losing it being assembled for extended periods of time.
  8. Not sure I fully understand the usefulness of such motor (relased on crawler/41999). If I wanted motorized steerning, I'd do a small motor + a clutch. The question is then: What does the servo motor really offer, in terms of innovation? or is it simply smaller packaging than M+clutch?
  9. Hi, I have two idler/clutch gears on an axle with a clutch between them, how do I have both gears spinning when the gear lever is in 'neutral/middle' but when the clutch is put into gear 1 or gear 2 only that one spins.? Obviously more axles and gears will be underneath the above setup since its a gearbox. Note that I cant put any more gears on the same axle as the clutch as: 1 it slides with the clutch, through the idler gears 2: the axle isn't long enough Maybe a differential can sort this I'm not sure, its really hard to picture it out mentally but I'm sure its possible, I know that a differential can have just the pinion gears or everything rotating. I don't want to use any more clutches as the gear lever already is using 4/5 of them and its very wide as it is. Here is the split/assembled model, grey and black parts are technic nuts and threaded axle.
  10. Hi, I am making a six speed gearbox but I am having significant trouble in enabling the gear lever to slide out of the drive selector clutch and into the clutch beside it. This is fine if the drive selector is set to the middle setting as it lines up with the clutch for the gearbox but if it isnt then it wont be able to without moving back down to the middle position and changing clutches. Any ideas?
  11. I was recently playing around with gears, and geartrains and came up with a simple yet effective way to make a custom clutch gear: I was really pleased with its effectiveness, and simplicity. Note: The more you gear it down, the harder it is to stop it. Enjoy!