StudWorks

Eurobricks Vassals
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About StudWorks

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  • What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)
    Technic
  • Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?
    Technic Bugatti and Creator Ford Mustang

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Building Lego Technic MOCs and I am also a car nut.

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  • Country
    U.S.A.

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  1. @Sariel The “measurement lines” I am referring to are the lines that show the measurements (in inches, studs, etc) when you make them on the scaler. Thank you for letting me explain this. At my experience level I really rely on the scaler for a simple way to get precise measurements.
  2. I did get the right scale myself but it’s not going to work with making measurement lines for the blueprints on the scaler because it got the scale calculation wrong.
  3. Hi @Sariel, Could the rounding error on the scaler be fixed?
  4. No worries, thank you Sariel.
  5. Good points, thanks for your replies. So I was attempting to start measuring my car with @Sariel's Model Scaler when I came across a confusing situation. The wheel/tire combo used on the MOC car is 3.21 inches, and according to the blueprints, the real car's wheel/tire combo is 27.7 inches. When I enter everything on Step 2 with the Model Scaler (10.2 stud wheel/tire, and 27.7 inches) it calculates the scale at 1:8.3. However, 27.7 divided by 3.21 is 8.6, not 8.3. What am I doing wrong or missing? I appreciate the help, thank you.
  6. Thanks for the feedback! It's okay but it doesn't lock as well, and I don't want it mixed with real Lego.
  7. Thanks for your helpful replies, I will certainly benefit from all of your great advice. I'm currently trying to find a way to replicate the engine cover of the car with bricks, it's a really complex shape and I have to make it as slim as possible. I understand it's not going to be perfect, but whatever works will do.
  8. I ordered some pieces on BrickLink and this one piece looks different than the other pieces that were obviously real Lego. This piece has "BL" logos on the studs instead of "LEGO" and there is no text on the bottom. The piece also feels different when connected to genuine Lego pieces. As this piece was ordered on BrickLink, the "BL" makes me a bit confused, though I believe Bricklink wouldn't intentionally make a fake Lego piece. Any thoughts?
  9. After finally building a functional chassis for my MOC I'm ready to start on the exterior and interior detail. Since this is the first time I'm making a 1:8 sports car, I would really welcome some advice from the community. When looking at the chassis photos please note that the EV3 IR sensor will not sit on the large motor for the final product. My car MOC is a 1:8.3 scale replica of the Lexus LC500 in Porsche 911 GT3 RS orange. The most challenging parts for me will be replicating the body with panels (I never replicated the shape of a car for an MOC), as well as the headlights, taillights, center console, and an engine cover with details under the hood. I will also be putting a medium motor in the trunk to power the small retractable wing as seen on the Premium Package for the LC500. Chassis Pictures: Blueprints and exact measurements (in inches) for the MOC according to Sariel's model scaler: Thank you.
  10. Incredible! This surely must have been a challenging build, it just goes to show what BuWizz is capable of at a large scale! I'm happy I got one of their bricks and can't wait to use it in my future MOCs.
  11. StudWorks

    [HELP] About Bracing Front of Axles

    Thank you for the feedback, I found something that works well... In the second picture you can see I placed a 3L red axle joiner to another piece in the chassis. Everything is going well with my car MOC and I look forward to adding the exterior parts soon!
  12. Awesome job! If Lego released more yellow Technic pieces I'd totally make an RE-Amemiya RX-7 (Super-G with fender mirrors, mmm... ) in 1:10 scale. It is my absolute favorite car, after all.
  13. In my car MOC, I braced both sides of most of the driven axles so when moving the axles won't wiggle out of the beams from the torque. In the example pictures below, I was wondering if the first picture, with the brown 3L with stop is good enough for use, or if I should always place a beam in front of it to prevent the 3L from pulling itself out (as shown in the second picture). Do I need to always prevent axles from pulling themselves out or is it fine without doing so? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  14. StudWorks

    DNR Shifter Issue

    I just wanted to thank the community for all your help, the car works! I used @Technonsense's DNR gearbox and reinforced it in the chassis and the car went through testing on floor and carpet in fourth gear without any skipping. I will also be keeping the fourth gear's 1:1 ratio. Even though the chassis moves perfectly, it's not 100% completed yet. The way I placed the EV3 brick seems odd... In the pictures above, it's very hard to see, but the brick seems to be on an angle, meaning something is wrong in the way it was placed. I used blue beams to show the angle the brick appears to be on. In this picture I am pointing at the holes in where the brick is mounted in. One side is mounted on a beam on another is on a so I'm curious if the vastly different pieces is the problem. I will need to fix this, but I'm glad I got a lot of progress in my build.