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Found 23 results

  1. Hi there, I've noticed whilst testing 'Electric Technic Motor 9V Geared 480rpm' (47154), it was making a strange buzzing noise whilst going both clockwise and anti-clockwise. Could this mean one or more of the internal gears are failing? Thankfully, there are four thin screws on the bottom which allow the motor to be taken apart. Are replacement gears obtainable? If not, then I have to have them either 3D Printed or cast in a silicone mold. Thanks.
  2. I don't know if this has been shared before, but in cases where max precision is more important than min friction, it may help to route gears double (with equal ratios of course) and have the closed circuit skip one or more teeth somewhere in the circuit. That way you can have the slack in one route compensate for the slack in the other route. When you route gears double, the gear meshes together make a closed circle. Before installing the last gear in the circle, you can sort of wind up the adjacent gears against each other to eliminate slack in the rest of the circle. Now when you install the last gear while the adjacent gears are wound up, you get a closed circle with only very little slack in it. With the number of 'skipped' teeth I refer to the number of teeth by which the adjacent gears have been wound up, compared to their positions without wind-up. In this simple circuit I skipped 1 tooth to obtain a transmission with practically zero slack:
  3. Hello, I've been building with lego technic for a couple of years, but found myself never having the right pieces for my builds. I recently bought a second-hand lego set with some nice wheels (8386). So I could finally start building some bigger and cooler cars. I started with my first supercar this week and am having trouble with the rear axle. I am using the method you see in this picture ( with 2 separate axles. The problem is that I want to use a differential, but can't figure out how that would work with this. Does anyone have a solution for this, or does anyone have a different, stable (compact) method for this? Any rear axle that has suspension is welcome. I would appreciate it to see more ideas from you. One more thing to keep in mind is that I only have the type of universal joints you see in the picture ( I don't have any other. Thanks in advance ;)
  4. I said before in my previous post that I had some problems with my GX EV3 4x4 chassis that I needed to fix. Once again, it's more gear grinding/clicking, but this time it's only in the front and rear differential gears. The grinding occurs whenever the chassis tries to drive into a wall or when it tries to drive in different conditions (because as an SUV it should drive smoothly in dirt or uneven terrain). What also annoys me is that when I push the car, instead of letting the motors move, the differentials make clicking noises that, like I said before, sound like a machine gun. I really need help so I can stop the differentials from clicking so when the car tries to drive into the walls, the motors won't still move while the differentials click, and so the car can be a lot more versatile on uneven terrain (such as what I used for testing, blankets) without the differentials causing a problem when the car moves. Here's some pictures of the bottom of the chassis.
  5. I'm back again with another gear grinding issue but this one is a bit less critical. The grinding only occurs when my 4x4 SUV chassis (with Sariel's 4-Speed Sequential Transmission) is in a certain gear. Here's some photos of the chassis. The transmission is shifted to the speed where the nonstop grinding occurs. When in this gear (I believe it may be 3rd) The car is supposed to move, but it does very slowly while clicking noises fire like a machine gun. This is the only time when the gears grind other than, say, if the chassis hits a wall. When the clicking begins, I hear the driving rings shake (which awfully reminds me of the somewhat gear clicking in the Mercedes-Benz Arocs set). I would love a response a soon as possible to address the clicking problem so I can finish the chassis once and for all.
  6. This is my second post on the EuroBricks community and another question asking for as much help as I can get to master the art of the technic gearbox. Like I said in my previous post, for my Lexus GX EV3 4x4 SUV, I tried my best to use Sariel's 4-speed sequential and it ultimately failed on me. Quoting one of my replies... I would be relieved if I could finally finish this creation after five months of difficulty. Here are some pictures of the entire chassis. I said before that the issues with this was that the gears clicked a ridiculous amount at the highest gears which stopped the car from moving. (Hence the reason why the transmission I want needs to have a clutch gear to absorb the large amount of torque)
  7. Just wanted to preface this by saying I am a complete noob when it comes to engineering and HATE asking others for help with homework. However, I desperately need help in my engineering class to maintain my high honor roll grades. I need to come up with a comprehensive design by Monday and have been procrastinating for the past week. So the final of the class is to design a rover with four wheels that can drive through the obstacle course (It's basically a turn and a hill). The requirements of the rover are: Must "stand" on a cardboard platform Use 2 motors Have at least one worm gear have a mechanical advantage between 72-120 using LEGO gears must have "vertical" axles meaning the axles go from the front right wheel to the back right wheel and the same for the left. Must be less than 9in by 9in including wheels Can only utilize worm gear, 8 tooth gear, 16 tooth gear, and 24 tooth gear although using a differential or whatever it is called is also ok. have wooden structural pieces that strengthen the chassis The motor cannot be glued down Must be able to turn while "stationary" by having wheels on one side go in reverse and the wheels on the other going forward. Thanks for the help everyone! I'm sure you guys think this is really basic but engineering really is not my forte.
  8. I'm building a SUV drivetrain for my Lexus GX EV3 project that has independent suspension, four-wheel-drive, and a four-speed gearbox with a medium EV3 motor that shifts the gears. Unfortunately, after testing the drivetrain, I found that when in 3rd or 4th gear, the gears make a clicking noise when moving forward and then straight to backward. However, this clicking somewhat occurs less when going from reverse to forward. This clicking really "grinds my gears" and I don't know what to do to stop the gears from clicking. My gearbox is a custom version of Sariel's four-speed sequential that is fit for the vehicle I am building. The input in the transmission is switched to provide more speed. Two large EV3 motors drive the input. I've noticed that when the vehicle stops, it goes the opposite direction for a little bit. Also, like I already said, this clicking only happens in 3rd or 4th gear, but mostly the 4th gear since it brings the most speed. I tried to solve this clicking with different gears and whatnot, but no matter what they still clicked when the vehicle moved forward to backward. The motors and the gearing also bring a lot of torque as much as it brings speed, and this might be one of the problems. Is there any way I can solve this issue so the gear clicking will stop in this situation (moving foward and then straight to backward) for now on? Here's a photo of the bottom of the drivetrain. Thank you in advance for any assistance that you may be able to provide!
  9. I got the Bucket Wheel Excavator in September last year, and after building it and modifying it (with Mindstorms), I dismantled it to use the pieces in my other Mindstorms creations. I'm particularly interested in the large yellow planetary gears/rings that come with the set, I hope to use them to create some sort of tank with a rotating turret. However, I'm not too sure about the geometry of the pin-holes in the rings, I don't really know where it is safe to attach a pin in a certain hole. If anyone knows of the correct geometry of the rings, it would be very helpful!
  10. After a little tinkering, I managed to create this self-locking differential. It locks when the car goes straight and unlocks when turning: A set of 12t gears are connected to the steering rack. When the rack is in the middle (and the car going straight), the two halfshafts are coupled together, locking the differential. When the rack moves to the left or right to steer the car, the 12t gears disengage with the 20t gears and let the differential act like an open diff: The main downsides I see with this setup are that the differential may stay locked during wide turns with small rack movement and the width of the axle is increased. A standard independent suspension with a differential and 68.8x36 ZR wheels (the combination I usually use) is 25 studs wide; with this feature it increases to 27.
  11. Any tips on ways to put it in and use it with nly a small amount of space? * I meant only
  12. The new gear rack quadrants have other possible uses for Technic builds such as:- 1/. Bucket Wheel trencher ( BWE - C -model ? ) 2/. Large crane builds. 3/. Fairground rides - not often made using Technic. 4/. Railway Hopper wagon coal / iron ore rotary tipplers What else could these gear quadrants be used for ?
  13. I am looking for some suggestions. My daughter is building the Mars Rover set (go here for the details: for a presentation at school and I told her I would help make it operate by remote control with one of the power function kits. Problem is that it is a lot more complex than I thought. (I have no experience at the expert LEGO building). I think I can maybe get it moving with a remote, receiver, and simple motor attached to one wheel, but I do not have any idea how to do the steering and don’t know how to move any of the other functions (camera, antenna, robotic arm). see It was not designed to be converted to power functions / motorized. Here is a photo of the underside: I am not sure the easiest / best way to add power for drive and steering. It just has to move a little bit in the classroom, not drive outdoors in all terrain. I posted in another forum and a member suggested that I post here. Any suggestions to help me figure out what I need to do and what to buy to easily make this work would be much appreciated. Thanks much!
  14. I need suggestion with my car. I have images below of what I have so far. A few questions. What springs should I use. Hard or soft? What wheels or tires? And I need ideas on how to complete it. So far my axle has working steering and a driveshaft connected. I don't know what to do next as I am a new technic builder. If any more information or pictures are needed please tell me :) Images:
  15. I have not been happy with the performance of my 9396 for a long time, so I am in the process of rebuilding it. The issue is that both the manual and motor-driven operation of the blades are sluggish and involves seemingly high torque, perhaps due to the large number of gears in the drive train, resulting in very slow turning blades. After completing about 82 steps in the rebuild, I got to a place in the build in which I can turn the blades with the hand knob, and again there seemed to be a lot of binding and "stiction" of the gears, which I traced to the gear directly driving the turntable being the primary trouble maker, highlighted as lime-colored in the LDD image. Loosening the build at this location, by forcing the two DSG11L beams slightly apart, resolves the issue, but is not a permanent solution as these will be tightly locked in place once the build is done. Does anyone else have similar issues, or suggestions to fix?
  16. Hi guys, I have been trying to make some trains (generally diesel) and a problem that I have always found is powering. for a steam locomotive this is usually pretty simple because of the lack of articulation but wel, bogies are articulated and motors are mounted in the build itself. my question was, how does gearing react to this? and what is the handiest for compact solutions? vertical or horizontal? with vertical you get this: lego 6L train bogie by alterlegotechnic, on Flickr how could something like this be used in a locomotive? would the motor stick loosely in the chassis and what about a vertical motor like this (http://www.brickshel...16/cam06194.jpg) will there happen something in corners? like that the would go faster or some? and with Horizontal you get this Iowa Pacific SLRG 515/518 Mechanics by wildchicken_13, on Flickr how can gearing do this? i mean the rotating bogie, what happens to the gears in it? obviously could 2 M motors be needed for a small train (around 4 cars) or will it fail? I heard something about a V2 receiver? I have a V1 (I think) and that a normal one won't be able to give enough power to both? What is better? XL or M? when will a XL be needed? so in one sentence: vertical or horizontal? what happens to gearing and what is easier when using normal motors?
  17. Here are couple videos shows how to make velocity that varies, but remains constant over longer time. Very simple setup. Rotation with intervals. There is small chance that gears stuck. A-axle connected to motor and rotated with constant speed. B-axle connected through chain. Part time of cycle rotates faster, part time - slower. Both axles do full cycle in same amount of time. In both cases i attached axle to a gear in non-standard way. Attaching axle by different angle (but same place) will move center of rotation closer to gear side by 1 mm. You could place axle-pin to that place to fixate another axle in one of 4 holes of that gear. This gives another alternative for speed and position The only problem - I haw no idea where to use this approach :D So let me know if you used it anywhere.
  18. [MOC] L'Supervivere

    L'Supervivere Over the course of several years during the great industrial age, this mechanical suit was created by the lesser-known Professor Stewart Phoenix out of disused parts scavenged from various scrapheaps and abandoned factories around the outskirts of Victorian London, hence L'Supervivere's rather cobbled together and unusually complex appearance. The original and sole purpose of L'Supervivere was to be used by Professor Stewart Phoenix to protect his family and his estate, Phoenix Manor, from destruction, but over the years this technical monstrosity was also used for several other suitably vital causes, such as fixing leaks in the Manor's roof and rescuing cats from trees. The most notable alternative use of L'Supervivere was during a lengthy voyage abroad, in which it was used to navigate the treacherous rainforests of the Amazon and defend a party of explorers (including Professor Stewart Phoenix himself) against any threats they may have encountered. At the end of Professor Stewart Phoenix's long and fruitful life, he proclaimed in his last will and testament that L'Supervivere would be passed down to his eldest and only son, Dr Joseph Phoenix, on the sole condition that it mustn't be used for any type of criminal activity and that at the end of his life, he should also pass on L'Supervivere to his eldest son, and that this son should pass it on to HIS eldest son, and so on until what is only described within Professor Stewart Phoenix's will as "The end of all days", but so far no-one has been able to fully understand the meaning behind this choice of words. Mysteriously, after being passed down through several generations L'Supervivere and the Phoenix bloodline completely disappeared from public view in the early 1920s. It is still rumored that L'Supervivere still exists in its original form to this day, but the location of the suit itself and it's rightful owner is currently not known... More images on my Flickr. Enjoy!
  19. Just another idea I got while making the LDD animating tutorial. Might be usefull, but generally its shows the hidden capabilities of LDD related to phsyics. Download the LXF here: http://www.bricksafe...gears/gears.lxf
  20. Hey guys, Ive designed in my lab the following construct, which i found in a book: I am trying to use this construct as part of a manual i am making in LDD. However in LDD, when i try to place the final piece, which is the bevel gear Z20, it doesnt allow me. Please see image below: Any idea why this perfectly physcally feasable construct is impossible to build in LDD? PLEASE HELP Thank you
  21. because myself is actually in sickness to make some gears, which one would you like to have or, for purists, only to see? planetary gears, torsen diffs or worms which can fit on 12 and 20 tooth gears? anything else interesting in your mind?
  22. Has anyone attempted to measure the power loss from gearing motors up or down? What I'd really like to find is something like Philo's excellent work on motor specifications, batteries, tire traction, and so forth. Ideally it would compare all common pairs of gears (8/8, 16/16, 12/20, 8/24, 8/40, etc.) for at least a couple of motors.
  23. Hi I am working on gear pairs meshed directly together, in a 2 by 2 arrangement. Two gears on each of the two axles - However one gear is an idler gear which is driven by the other gears instead of with the same rotation speed as the motor. However I'm not sure if the ratio for the idler gear will be 1:1 since there is two 16 tooth gear gears in either example I don't think it is 1:1 though it should be what the other two gears are, so say 3:1 or 1.6:1 but I'm unsure as it's hard to tell. The yellow axle joiner goes to the motor, I'm using a differential to replicate a single 24 tooth idler in the first image. Obviously the dark grey gears are the idlers. Any ideas what it could be. More gears can be used with studed beams and plates such as 16 tooth +12 tooth or 20 + 20 or 16 + 20 etc. Regards, S