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Found 143 results

  1. Updated: BrickController 2 on the Google Play Store Beta program: BrickController2 BrickController 2 is also available on the Apple App Store in TestFlight. BrickController 2 Older versions: BrickController Android application. It lets you to control Lego creations via Lego infra-red, SBrick and BuWizz V1 and V2 using any Android compatible game controller: Current version: BrickController 0.6 User guide: BrickController User Guide Minimum system requirement: Android 4.4 and bluetooth low energy support on the phone (or tablet) Video on the older SBrickController application:
  2. Hello all, im not a very experienced train builder, but since i saw the movie "Unstoppable", i got inspiration to build trains, so, i made my own version of the 777 train of the movie in LDD, which if im not wrong its a BNSF GE C44-9W, so here it goes: Im not very talented for the aesthetics, thats why it is a bit ugly, it was supposed to have a yellow stripe on the sides, but i think it would look much better with stickers, however, i will see if i can make of bricks. I decided to make it 8 wide, to have more space for details and to make it more scale-realistic. The propulsion system its done by one battery box, one sbrick and 2 XL motors for each locomotive: And this is how it steers (it still can steer to take the normal curves) I hope you like it, i will try to post more pics of the working parts. Thanks.
  3. Hi everyone, Finally, I have finished a project which I was building since last September. It is the scale model of the Intrac 2011 snow blower which is/was often used in the swiss alps by the army and other communal parties. It was the aim to create another working snow blower after the success of the snow blower from last winter. The blower is powered by three buggy-motors which are all controlled by a separate Sbrick. Each track is driven by two PF XL motors. The snow blower shoot direction is controlled by two 9-volt micro motors and the height of the snow blower by one PF L motor. As power source I used two Buwizz as battery or a custom lipo battery. After a certain time in the cold I had the replace the Buwizz with the custom lipo battery. Cheers FT
  4. Today I like to show you my latest MOC: The Mercedes Zetros 1833 Expedition Truck 4×4. It's my second LEGO Technic Zetros in an approximate scale of 1:13.5. The construction time was actually only three weeks. Then the truck was finished by and large. The extensions and improvements took another 11 months. For the impatient among you, here's the video first: This MOC was originally designed for lightweight construction, best off-road capabilities and adequate speed. Therefore I completely redesigned the chassis and the axles. And because it has to work in forest, desert, arctic and jungle, I designed the chassis and drive as simple as possible. Each wheel of the 4×4 truck is driven by an XL engine. Via a 90° deflection via knob wheels, the drive goes to planetary gear. Thus the highest possible torque is available at the wheel. The steering is done by a servo motor. Two SBrick are used to control the truck. In addition, a Power Functions infrared receiver is installed. The Zetros draws its energy from two large PF battery boxes. The lightweight construction was not quite successful. The Zetros weighs 5.7 kg including batteries. Therefore I had to reinforce the springs several times. Now the long red springs are in front ( a bit softer ). In the back there are four yellow, hard springs as well as two spring-loaded shock absorbers. The shock absorbers were necessary because the body quickly built up during off-road driving. So the truck is very stable and easy to drive. About the functions: At the front of the Zetros there is a cable winch with pulley and hook. The winch is operated via one of the SBricks. In the rear of the fully equipped superstructure there is a garage for an ATV. I control its winch via the PF IR. The ATV is quasi a “MOC in the MOC” and of course fully functional. It has a fake V2 engine and rear axle suspension. For a long time I worked on the retractable awning. This stretches itself. The motor, which is hidden in one of the built-in cabinets, only rolls in and out the fabric. The awning is also controlled via the PF IR. A real highlight is the lighting of the truck. Functioning front and rear lights go without saying. The indicators also work on the left and right as well as on the “warning lights”. There is a floodlight bar on the roof. And because it is equipped with an odd number of single LEDs, there was one left. Well, now the truck even has cabin lighting. For interior design. There is a passage between the driver’s cab and the superstructure, as in the original, which is covered at the top and sides with a flexible rubber bead. In the living area there is a loft bed (above the ATV garage), a small bathroom with a suggested toilet, a suggested kitchen block (which hides the winch for the ATV), a closet (which hides the mechanics for the awning), a table and two storage compartments (one is empty, the other contains the awning shaft). On the roof of the driver’s cabin is a luggage rack with two expedition boxes (what’s inside, I reveal in the Behind-the-MOC video) and three canisters of water and diesel (what else). I hope I haven’t forgotten anything. More photos of the finished Mercedes Zetros 1833 and the Work in Progress of the Zetros can be found on my Flickr channel.
  5. Hello! We are ethusiastic adult LEGO fans and we have developed this new remote technology (kck.st/1sf6zOU). We know that lego is not just a toy, but an expression of the passion of creation. We are very interested in your opinion! Once upon a time there was a group of LEGO fans that had a dream, namely the dream of not simply taking readily existing building blocks to create a new model, but rather to create something that would take the LEGO experience to an entirely new level. They started their journey half a year ago but in order to fully realize their dream they now need your support. Take a look at what they’ve achieved so far and play your part to help turn what was simply a dream six months ago into a reality today . What they have produced is the SBrick, a universal remote control unit that slots simply into your existing LEGO models and allows you to control up to 64 Power Functions® units using your smartphone or tablet. This is just one of the very many things it does (there is a full list of the features listed below). If you browse any of the LEGO forums worldwide, it soon becomes clear that this is something that this is something fans have wanted for a very long time and the good news is that this very product is here now.
  6. Dear moderators, please rename this topic to [MOC] Trophy Truck "Double Trouble" Hi everybody! Video is available, enjoy and comment! Here comes double trouble. Twin powered double trouble True liftarm energy! This is my new Moc. And it is ready: I am working on photo/video. UPDATE Here is some photos and info while you wait for video. Specs: Soft long travel suspension. Front independent with postive caster Rear live axle with built in Buggy motors. Rear wheel drive Self made stickers Tires RC4WD Dirt Grabber 1.55 (74 мм) - thats a copy of real BF Goodrich AT tires Spare tire RC4WD Mickey Tompson Baja MTZ 1.55 (83 мм) Weight is 1100 gr Electrics: Steering SERVO, Flying Propulsion 2x Buggy motors Fueled by 2xLiPo 3xLED lights Controlling thru 2xSBrick Internal space is filled with electronics. Unfortunately there is no free space for cockpit. Love this suspension, its articulation is great for me. I am happy seeing how it works) Suspension travel is about 4L. I will drop down and show it on video later. You know, LEGO suspension is always jerky, so you cant make big mocs drive straight, especially when it is fast and big. Positive caster helps to return wheels in center postition and fights with steering system backlash. It also makes shock absorbers work smoother and softer, IMHO. I dont like demonic "Monster" theme that is everywhere now...but this is good) Very good and realistic tires. Sad that there is no similar proportions tires in LEGO assortment. These are 75 mm with wide almost equal to medium 43 mm racing wheel. Spare tire is another type, cause I dont have 5-th Dirt Grabber. These 83 mm tire also fit in the arches, but they are bigger and harder for LiPos to rotate without stress... Model is driving fast enough for its weight and even drift donuts indoor, but outdoor shows the the weakest part - LiPo. I should try to lock differential thermistor for insane driving. After "baja" outdoor drive I replaced all damaged wheel axles and going to film its indoor's donuts and at asphalt outdoor to reach maximum speed. I hope it can reach at least 10 km/h. So "why double trouble"? - it is hard to fuel buggy motors. And here we have double of them. Here is full photo album http://www.bricksafe...rm8/BajaTruckDT
  7. Hello, Almost all of us use Sbricks as just "long range remote control with smooth speed control", right? It take time to know more about Sbrick functions that can be programmed using Profile designer. New possibilities, opened with Sequence and Circuit, was not presented and described well in guides (SBRICK Team should do a detailed guide and how-to manual). So I have to learn them by myslef. Car is just a mule for all functions we planned. So no need to describe design. We did it with my son for robotics contest in his School in January. Functions Independent suspension openable doors, including motorized rear door Rear wheel drive and steering Auto turn lights (+ manual buttons) Auto emergency lights (+ manual button) Auto backward drive light (+ manual button) Daylight and rear lights powered with solar panels All electronics 2x L motor for propulsion Servo motor for steering 2x LED for turn and emergency signals 2x LED for front and rear daylights 1x LED for backward drive signal M motor for trunk door opening WEDO tilt sensor for safe/dangerous drive control 1x LiPo batery 2x Solar panels 1x Smart Brick 1x Smart Brick PLUS Control profile is a mess of buttons. I think I need a real designer to design something nice in designer profile Small buttons are circuits, that are ON on the start, and no need to press them. So that's why I make them small (May be, hiding them is the better design decision) For example, circuits was used to make aut turn light: left or right turn LEDs are on depending on SERVO motor rotation direction. Circuits are like "IF" functions, that can be linked any port of Sbrick, but it is not described in Manual, so I have to expore it by myself. Round sequence buttons work like ON buttons but with programmed timings and power. So I can do blinking lights with described intervals of LED on and pauses between. The same I can do with motors. When driving, you can see that some sequence buttons on the iPad turns ON automatically (I don't press emergency, backward or turn rights at all) Another experiment: solar panels. They work well with LEDs. They even make work Sbrick. But too weak for motors. I saw some moving cars on YT with one solar panel and one motor under bright sun, but I can't name that "CARS" - just some liftarms and wheels with solar panel and M motor. My car is too heavy. Almost all functions can be done only by Sbrick. Sbrick PLUS is only used for connecting WEDO Tilt sensor. Tilt sensor detects "agressive driving": fast acceleration or brakes, crashes, shaking and roll over of course. Then circuit sends command to emergency lights. Another function I planned, but failed: automatic rear door opening detecting hand or leg under the rear bumper (like modern cars do). Unfortunately, I can't set up WEDO distance sensor. It should detect leg and open door only at small range. But everytime it detects surface under the car - it opens the door I also have to do some tricks, for example "all off" circuit, to prevent manual turn off emergency and rear drive light after every auto turning on... I think, this can function can be useful for big supercar scaled models or truck, especially for events. But Sbrick team shoud do a user friendly predesigne profiles for that and do a detailed manual for every function in profile designer. And I am also waiting for iOS support drivers You can turn on english subtitiles in the video. Describing how to programm all that buttons in Designer Profile need a separate video. Thanks.
  8. Hello everyone! Since TLG released 76023, I had been waiting for affordable Technic set which includes so-called Tumbler Tires. So I jumped at 42050 Drag Racer. I also bought some extra tires separately, then revived old project which had failed three years ago. Avtoros Shaman 8x8 Building instructions: Rebrickable Weight: 2550g - 4x L motor for 8 wheel drive - 2x Servo motor for 8 wheel steering - M motor for switching steering mode (AWS and crab) - M motor for winch - 3x LED for front and rear lights - 2x SBrick powered by 2x 8878 rechargeable battery box - Independent suspension for all wheels - Working steering wheel - Openable hood, doors and roof hatch Back in 2013 As you may know, real Shaman is which can go through almost any kind of terrain. It has three steering modes and can scale 45-degree incline. On top of that it is amphibious. Seeing pictures and videos, I instantly fell in love with it.When I started the project, I was too ambitious to realize all features above. Sadly I could not build even steering mechanism while keeping all wheel drive and independent suspension. So I changed the project to building another 8x8 vehicle. It ended up as my Tatra 813 Trial Truck, but that is another story. Focus on characteristic features Two months ago, I suddenly came up with an idea that enables both normal AWS and crab steering. In the case of four-wheeler, you can do it by switching rotation of second Servo motor for rear axle. But in eight-wheeler like Shaman, you should change turning radius of second and third axle. In normal mode, the steering angle of inner two axles is smaller than outer axles. But in crab mode, all axles should be steered at the same angle. This is the basis of steering idea. I used the way of fixing/moving pivot of steering linkage. A: There are two 7L steering racks connected to 7L beams. Front rack is connected in the middle of beam, rear is one stud backwards. Both ends of beams are connected to steering arms of each axle. B: In normal mode, rear rack is fixed by 12T bevel gear. So the fixed pivot of 7L beam is its 5th pin hole. Which makes front end of beam moves twice as rear end does. That means the steering angle of 1st axle is twice as 2nd axle. C: In switching crab mode, 12T bevel gear moves one stud forward and fix front rack. Fixed pivot is 4th pin hole of beam. Which makes both ends of beams move equally. That means the steering angle of 1st axle is the same as 2nd axle. And there is one more twist. D: I put main steering rack (moved by pinion gear) on one stud forward of 7L beam's front-end (which means 9L beam’s front-end). Seeing from the pivot point, this rack is connected to farther than the point of front steering arms connected. So front steering arms always move slightly shorter than main rack does. When Servo fully turns 90 degrees, pinion gear moves the rack in one stud sideways. Steering arms move less than one stud. This was necessary for keeping CV joint (connected to steering hub) rotate smoothly even when fully steered. Challenge and compromise First of all, this MOC is NOT amphibious. It is too heavy to float. And because of driving motors of low position, chassis is not waterproof at all. So it is not recommended driving it through even shallow water pool. My aim was to achieve decent crawling capability. But I had to lower the bar because there was no room left for portal/planetary hub reduction. Without them, heavy load from 81mm tires directly goes to 12T half bevel gears. First attempt was using two XL motors geared 25:9. I put each motor for left/right side of axle. The result was unsatisfied. Even when climbing over small obstacles, bevel gears often slipped and got damaged. So I replaced them with four L motors geared 3:1. Each one drives a pair of half axles. Thanks to their good speed and smaller torque, new drivetrain proved to be more reliable. Although bevel gears were still slipping a bit, I accepted overall performance. The picture above shows two L motors for driving right side of axles. The power functions switch for changing rotation of rear Servo motor is synchronized with moving steering pivot mechanism. In crab mode, rear 4 wheels steer opposite the same direction as front wheels. As always I used few of non-Technic parts. Big roof tile was used for saving weight, curve slope parts were better choice for filling the gap. LBG axles sticking out the roof are visible indicator for steering mode. They are mechanically connected to switching mechanism. In the video you can see how they work. Instructions available at Rebrickable. Building it in red is possible by using red parts instead of white. I hope you will enjoy building!
  9. Some month ago, I discovered the Сокол -80M (Сокол = Falcon), a heavy Russian crane with a lifting capacity of 80t on a two stages telescopic boom, thanks to another couple of hour spent on Youtube instead of working. See the video here (starting at 1:38) After some difficult search, I found that two variant exists, the first one is Falcon 80.01 and is mounted on a wagon for railway crash salvage and recovery, the second one is Falcon 80M which is mounted on a self-propelled tracked vehicle equipped with outriggers, able so to be also used in hard off-road environment . It is this version that kept my attention. The Lego Version This MOC is ‘inspired’ by the Сокол-80M more than a real scale reproduction. All the pictures are availavle on FlickR The transporter part is mounted on two track and equipped with deploying outriggers adapted from the 42009 Mark II Mobile crane. I had to modify them in order to avoid clash with the tracks There is 4 functions integrated in the transporter: Left track + Right track with a PF-L motor each Deployment of the outriggers through PF-M Extension of the stabilizers through PF-M These functions are controlled by a SBrick and powered by a single rechargeable battery installed in the cabin. The superstructure supports the main mast which is erected using two linear actuator. Due to the gear reduction (PF-L > short worm gear > 20T > LA) it moves very slowly but it works. I would really love to see one day Linear actuator twice the length of the current ones. Superstructure is installed on a 60t turntable and integrates all the functions required to operate the crane: Rotation of the superstructure through a PF-M Erection of the mast through PF-L Deployment of the telescopic part through PF-M Cable operation through PF-M These 4 functions are also operated through a dedicated SBrick powered by the battery. The only cable passing through the turntable is for the electrical alimentation The transporter and the superstructure are independent and can be separated. The assembly is done by simply clipping the turntable onto the transporter. A video : Good and to improve: Good : It’s like a mobile crane but more badass. Each transporter and superstructure can be controlled independently from the other Could have been done better : The visual aspect of the transporter and the crane cabin are not really perfect. I won’t lie, reproduce real machine at a mid scale is still not my cup of tea. What could be done better: Upscale it. Bigger, more space, more possibility. Thank you for reading
  10. The 42065 RC Tracked Racer is a nice canvas for modding. I was a bit disappointed when I found that it didn't have any technic gears apart from what you find when you disassemble the motors. Technic has always been used to teach mechanics to kids, and I personally find differential drive to be a super interesting alternative to the direct drive approach. It didn't take more than a couple of hours to stuff in a couple of differentials, so I made a little video of this mod in action: Another obvious "MOD" is to SBrick the model. This is a ridiculously simple MOD, so I decided to document the whole process of unpacking, updating, and programming a remote using the SBrick: I also had super high hopes for the L-motors. Perhaps this would be more interesting with a 2:1 gearing for double speed. This is how the standard direct-drive model performs with L-motors: Next up will be a GBC-module built mostly from parts of the model. To make a plain belt drive module is not really interesting anymore, so I'm currently trying to figure out if it can be made more interesting.
  11. Hey guys, sorry I haven't posted in a while. I've had the clips to make this video for 2 months now, but not enough time to edit. Anyhow, with that said, here's what I have done. I have rebuilt both of the rear axles so they can be driven by 2 L-Motors, and rebuilt the front axle so that it can be steered by a servo, and still be able to fit an engine and have room in the cab for other motors. I also rebuilt the front of the truck since it seemed too sparse to me, but I've left the rest of the truck (besides some of the internals) original. I decided I only wanted to use a single Sbrick, and I had only one port left, since there was already an M-Motor in the model to drive the functions connected to the distribution gearbox, so I built a custom sequential shifter that I could fit in the cab, and access the axles of the changeover catches in the gearbox, and thus shift through the functions sequentially. This is done with one M-Motor. All of the internal mechanics of the gearbox were left stock, besides the elimination of any white 24 tooth clutch gears. I did not change the rest of the model that much, though I did think having an inline-4 seemed kind of lame, so I put in a V8 instead. i will not release any instructions due to the extense of the modifications. Please enjoy the video and photos below, and feel free to leave a reply!
  12. I'm thinking of getting a Lego device that will give my models more power and allow me to control them outside and from long distance using my smartphone. As far as I am aware the best two options are BuWizz and SBrick, however I am not sure which option is best, as comparisons I have seen have never determined a clear winner. SBrick is way more affordable, more compact and seems to be popular in the Lego Technic community. I only learnt about BuWizz recently, it seems to generate an insane amount of power but it costs over twice as much as an SBrick and is bulkier, plus I already have 6 Battery Boxes and it would be a complete waste not using them. Of course they are both clearly better than the Official Lego PF IR Sensors I am currently using, which are god awful past a 2m range and are useless outside, however I would like to know people's thoughts, opinions and experiences to help me decide which is best value for money before I blow loads of cash on a toy. Currently I am leaning towards SBrick, but from what I've seen online, BuWizz looks like a viable option also. Cheers
  13. I am continuing to explore the fascinating world of the pipe transportation with a new prototype. You may already have seen it on youtube, I’m a bit late to post here (busy week-end). If you have a good memory, I did a first prototype on track (here) that had some limitation; in particular it couldn’t transport more than one pipe at once. The complete album is available on FlickR Prototype 2. For this second iteration, I started again form a white sheet to try something new : The transporter is now on tire with multiple axle steering for a good maneuverability and good translation speed (more adapted to road). I choose to keep two cranes for the consistency with the first proto. First advantage this allows making them smaller, as each crane support almost half of the weight of the pipe they don’t need to be reinforced and a mini actuator is enough to make them move. Second advantage is that the pipe remains horizontal even if not loaded exactly on its center of gravity. What’s inside ? There is 6 functions in this truck (5RC + 1 manual). Propulsion on axle 3 and 4. Steering on axle 1-2 and 5-6. The cranes : 1- 360 degrees Rotation. 2- 90 degrees Lift. 3- Cable. The truck was built from the center to the extremity, both crane are a copy-paste and are actuated by the same motors placed in the middle of the truck. Advantage: the crane move simultaneously and are always in the same position, drawback: you can’t use only one crane if you want to (I don’t know why you would have to use only one crane but well.) This was a choice at the conception because the goal of this prototype was to test the concept. With an alternative built it would have been possible to upgrade the truck so each crane have its set of motor , and the simultaneous movement is manage through the software (because yes, SBrick allows you to control several port with one command) Last functions are the additional lateral support that are deployed manually. They were added lattely in the building process (when I tried to install a larger pipe that clashed with the cranes), so I did not had enough room left in the truck to install the pneumatic line. Not a big issue in my opinion, I will do better next time. Good and not compare to the first prototype: Good Can transport more than one pipe Can load/unload up to two pipe in total autonomy No real length limitation Better road capabilities Not good Still requires a manual intervention to catch the pipe Range of operation : Cranes are not long enough to load the additional support. The dual crane are still not independent. Some improvements are still possible. So, project to be continued. Thank you for reading Edit: One additional word: in the video you can see a support vehicle. It is a not-so-good mini forklift only used to load the truck, It has been possible by the use of a 3rd Sbrick (both vehicle controlled through the same interface) and 4 M motors. Dedicated video here (yes I was terribly boring when I did the miniature ):
  14. Lucio Switch

    [MOC] Crane Truck

    Hi to everybody! I'm here to present my new Moc. I started building this crane truck about 6 months ago with the main idea of solving the problems related to a failed attempt of a crane for my previous truck. IMG_1608 by Lucio Switch, su Flickr Starting from the cab...despite the undeniable resemblance to the cab of the dump truck (with a bit of the tractor truck), it has slightly different dimensions, and the add of some new details/functions, forced me to revise it completely. In fact, in addition to the "standard" opening doors, this time, as on real trucks, the cab is suspended, while maintaining the tilting function and the working steering wheel and the front grid is openable. Moreover the seats are pneumatically suspended via 2 (1+1) 1x5 pneumatic cylinders. The chassis has the tractions on the 2 last axles, they are driven by 4 XL Motors and uses 2 Servo Motors to steering the first two axles (with different turning radius). The first two axles use independent suspensions. In this case I was inspired by the Mod of the chassis of my Tractor Truck done by Efferman ... that has a perfect shape for a fake v8. On the back there are 2 live axles (with a total of 24 hard shock absorbers). Between the first two axles there are two small pneumatic pumps moved by two L Motors. In addition to that, on the chassis are present 2 Li-Po Battery, 5 Leds for lights and 2 SBricks. Behind the cabin there is the base of the crane, it contains the front stabilizers, extendable via a M motor (connected to one SBrick), 6 pneumatic valves, moved by an M motor each, 4 IR receivers to control the 6 valves motors plus 2 other M motors, one to rotate the crane and one for the winch. The 4 receivers take power from a port of an SBrick. Finally the crane ... well, the classic design of this type of crane with the upper arm offset (as on 8258 for instance) built on this scale, gave me big problems twisting the whole structure ... and a lot of headaches. One day I came across by chance in a truck with a Cormach crane, it presented a unique design that would solve the twist problem. So inspiring to this design, I have developed my crane, which consists of a telescopic upper arm (extension via 2x 1x11 pneumatic cylinders) supported by two side arms moved by 2+1 2x11 pneumatic cylinder each. It isn't able to lift heavy loads, but it works and, considering the masses involved, I'm fine with that. Now some numbers: Length: 86,4cm 108studs Width: 24,8cm 31studs, 28cm 35studs with mirrors Height: 39,2cm 49studs Weight: 8.6 kg Total number of parts: 8000 PF elements: M motor: 9 L Motor: 2 XL Motor: 4 Servo Motor: 2 PF LED: 5 Lipo Battery: 2 ..and a couple of wire extensions Pneumatic Elements: Small pumps: 2 1x5 Cylinder: 2 Medium Cylinder old: 4 Medium Cylinder new: 2 1x11 Cylinder: 2 2x11 Cylinder: 6 Valve: 6 ..and several meters of pipes. For more pictures check my Flickr Album: Crane Truck Flickr Album And this is the video: To conclude, I would say that, in some way it was a new and interesting experience for me. Due to circumstances beyond our control, I was forced to transfer my Lego room in the basement, comfortable although perhaps a bit rustic but not directly connected with my apartment. This, coupled with the fact that my free time has been drastically reduced, has led me to review my usual workflow. So this is my first model built before digitally and then physically. This way allowed me to use better my free time and to select and pick up only the needed parts to build, reducing drastically the mess in the living room. Also part of the work for the BI is already done, I'll done them for sure, but I don't have idea when they will be ready. I'm afraid that it will be a huge job! I hope you like it!
  15. KevinMoo

    [MOC] SHERP ATV

    Hey, Eurobricks! It’s been a long time. And for me it’s been a really tough time. Actually I’ve been suffering from anxiety disorder and OCD for a long time. It seems I can just handle it and not let it affect my life (which I did also for a long time) but things got out of control in the past few months. It’s the darkest time in my life and basically I lost interest in doing anything. God knows what I’ve been through. Luckily I got my family with me all the time. More importantly I didn’t do anything bad & stupid to myself. It is still a recovery process for me, but I think I’m well enough to pick up some unfinished LEGO projects, something I love to do, and something that will make me feel better. So today, I’m bringing you one of those projects - a LEGO version of the SHERP ATV. Parts count: 1374 pcs Weight: 1420 g Dimensions (Length x Width x Height): 232 mm x 195 mm x 178 mm / 9.13 in. x 7.68 in. x 7 in. Exterior I like this kind of compact vehicle, especially with massive tires. While building this model, I have a single goal for the exterior: full enclosure. It all started with the mudguard. I tried to use Technic parts to build the middle section but it’s nearly impossible to recreate the curves with no gaps. So sloped bricks become the best choice. To compensate a little bit on the extra “unnecessary” weight, the enclosure is also used as part of the gear housing. Drivetrain Instead of putting two identical motors on each side and making it skid-steer drive, I decided to make a drivetrain based on a subtractor. It made precise steering possible, and can be controlled one-handedly by Sbrick, which something I prefer when I drive the model while holding the camera on the other hand. This is a prototype: It’s a failed attempt. Knob wheels not only cause unsmooth power transmission, but also take the space of a 5x7 frame, which is supposed to be a sturdy housing for the lower differential. As a result, the lower diff got damaged from gear slipping after 5 minutes of test drive, the whole model couldn’t move completely. After several tests, I replace the knob wheels with 16-tooth clutch gears. it only introduces very little frictions and it’s very reliable. Here is the final version: Performance I made a short video (4K): More Details Hope you like it. Feels good to be back
  16. Zerobricks

    Dominator TRS

    Here is a sneak peak of one of my biggest projects up to date: Project started with a new type of a gearbox, which uses only two toothgears at any time in order to transfer power from motors efficient to the wheels: Here are a few specs of the model: Length cca. 80cm when folded Width cca. 30cm Height cca. 25cm Weight cca. 4,5 cm Dual rear live axles in the back independent suspension in front 4 electrically controlled gears + 1 additional electro-pneumatically controlled gear Working towing arm in the back capable of lifting weights of over 1kg Dynamic lights All functions controlled by 3 Sbricks Currently we have snow here and I can't shoot a video as planned I will post more info as soon as I manage to take more photos and a video.
  17. Hello, my entry for the TC6 contest it's a heavy forklift truck, the Hyster 32-12. The model has 8 functions (4 IR or 2 sBricks), it's 50% built at the moment and nearly completed on LDD/MLcad. Soon I'll put updates (photos, video, notes) Here a pic of what an Hyster 32-12 is: Thanks, and hold on for news. Video:
  18. Hi Newbie around here, used to play with lego back in the days and somehow got back into it but this time as grown up and and adjusted gaming budget ended up buying some Lego Technics models along the way (mainly stuff with tracks :) ). So got my hands on the 42065 Tracked Racer, really liked it but fell in love with the B-Model/Off Road Truck and started putting my two RC 5292 motors into it. Here is a short video about the evolution to my so far "final" v5.3 Mod: Short recap about the progress: replacing the two PF motors with the RCs, and going for an SBrick increasing the wheel base and changing to 3:1 gearing, then getting to know about the fuse inside the battery box, adding suspension, moving the battery up increasing the wheelbase again to get two battery boxes inside and double the SBricks, and change to 1,667:1 gearing Putting the RCs horizontal with a 2.5:1 gearing Currently working on: Getting a GoPro attached Getting it a bit water/splash proof to be able to go through some puddles (so far cling foil wrapping battery cases) ToDo: Get some filminig done of the v5.3 with the 2.5:1 gearing Getting the PS3 controller working on the Nexus 5 together with the SBrick Future ideas Improving suspension, weight is currently heavy on the rear Getting a winch into it on the rear or front Automatic two gear box to get faster on plain surface and getting more torque when going through terrain, looking at sariels automatic two gear box so far, but it probadly wont fit p.s. These are my first attempts at shooting videos as well, so bear with me ;-) . Most of them are handheld from my Google Pixel while driving with my other hand on my old Nexus 5
  19. Hello! My latest MOC is a re-creation of unusual Jeep model. Jeep Mighty FC Concept -Weight: 2125g -2 XL motors for propulsion -Servo motor for steering -M motor for 2 speed gearbox -M motor for locking rear differential -M motor for winch -3 LEDs for front and rear lights -2 SBricks powered by one rechargeable battery box -Portal axles -Openable doors and tailgate -Shallow bed with fold-down sides -Detachable roof -Alternative tube doors The chassis is not realistic, but has decent offroad capability as heavy Lego model. My goal was to make a sturdy and powerful crawler having propulsion motors and gearbox on the center of its chassis. Which means the drivetrain contains two universal joints - weakest points - for transmitting the torque to front and rear live axles. To save U-joints from damaging, I adopted two stage reductions after differential on both axles. The gearbox is similar one to my previous FJ40 Crawler. I doubled the pair of 8T/24T gear for higher durability. High gear is three times faster than low gear. You may wonder why rear ball joint is connected lower than front. That is for avoiding body roll caused by high torque of hard-coupled XL motors. Seeing from the gearbox, the rear output rotates in opposite direction to the front one. So the front and rear axle are equally forced to rotate in opposite direction to each other. Thus the center chassis with heavy body does not easily roll left or right even when climbing steep incline. (...at least on paper. I admit the complete body is a little bit too heavy to prove the theory above.) Steering angle is good, but turning radius is not so good. Because of the lack of center differential, it cannot handle different rotating speed of front and rear axle in tight turning. On slippy surface, like in the video, it can be steered without any problem. Rear differential can be locked instantaneously. The role of 8T gear on top of red changeover part is to make a tiny gap between 16T clutch gear and driving ring in locked position. Thanks to the gap, 16T gear is not pushed against outer structure. That helps to decreasing the friction. Front winch is powered by M motor geared 9:1. I used two pairs of 8T/24T gear instead of worm gear. It is smoother and surprisingly powerful. The hook can be manually pulled out by switching the lever under right seat. The body looks a bit squarish comparing to the real Mighty FC. Maybe I could replicate trapezoidal shape of its cabin. But I thought angled pillars and roll cage would be wobbly. So I decided to build simple yet sturdy. Instead of realistic appearance, I managed to realize easily detachable roof and doors. Although the whole MOC is built for using Unimog tires, Claas tires also fit well. But the maximum articulation of axles would be smaller because bigger tires possibly touch the chassis and fenders. It would be necessary to limit suspension travel or slightly modify the chassis. I hope you will like it! I will make building instruction. But I have to finish the instruction of Pickup first.
  20. At the beginning of 2018, TLG has released a new series of Lego City sets, including the 60188 Mining Experts Site with a big drilling machine called The Crusher. It’s some sort of a hybrid between a tunnel drilling machine and a bucket wheel excavator. #Makeitbigger I’m not a big fan of re-build/improve official lego set but a take one CITY set and #Makeitbigger in TECHNIC is surprisingly challenging. (A good idea for a contest in my opinion). The Crusher XL’s MOC is not an exact upscale of the 60188’s Crusher, I built it like a “bigger” one, but still at minifig scale, with Bluetooth control through 2 SBricks and some power function elements: - 1x Battery Box - 6x PF-M Motors - 2x PF-L Motors - 5x PF-LEDs - 3x 15cm cable extensions - 1x 50cm cable extension The main differences with the original model: - The tracks are doubled and driven by a PF-M motor each. - It is composed of two parts. The lower part is the vehicle. It is built on a cross structure with track at each side. The 11x11 rack from set 42055 are reused to rigidify the assembly and support the upper superstructure. (LDD on google drive here) - The upper part is the superstructure. It can rotate nearly 300 degrees (the limitation is here to preserve the PF cable) and contains the electrical heart of the machine. The small PF-B battery box is place at the rear to be used as counterweight and completed with two boat weight (73090b);There is 4 motor and the 2 SBricks fitted in this little space to control the mains function. - The cabin is a reuse of the 42055 set. It fits well to this model and defines the minifig scale of the vehicle. The position has been forwarded for the operator to have a better view. - The arm is raised and lowered by cable actuated by a PF-M. A single cable is used between the two winches so it can accommodate the difference of position. - There is no moving counterweight (‘cause it is ugly) - The drilling head can tilt. It is mounted on a turn table and can turn to 360 degrees. The turntable is old and jam a little so the movement is not very smooth. Both drilling and tilting function are powered by a PF-L motor each. The Video : Possible improvements There are some points I initially wanted to include in this MOC but they wouldn’t have fitted in this scale. So I keep them in mind if one day I decide to build a Mk.2 : - 360 degree rotating track instead of a rotating superstructure: the challenge here was to find a means to control each 4 tracks separately (see picture below) - Telescopic arm: why not ? - Material belt conveyor between the dual drilling head like a bucket wheel excavator Thank you for reading :)
  21. Quick question for those who own a SBrick, do you know if a Samsung S5 will work with an SBrick? Considering getting an SBrick, but don't know if I have the correct phone for one. Thanks!
  22. Updated: The (almost) final version of the app is ready, app renamed to SBrickPad. For now, you can download the source from my GitHub page: https://github.com/BarakRL/SBrickPad If there will be enough demand I'll make it available for download from the App Store. The app supports MFI and iCade gamepads, on-screen gamepad will be added later this month. More videos coming soon. --- Well it's not done yet but it's getting there. I've added support for both iCade and MFI gamepads and many other features: precision controls (you can even set the easing curve if you want) SBrick connection recovery multiple actions per button event (press/release/value change) so you can control multiple motors with one button or simply play an engine sound while the car is accelerating load/save (and share) action sets import sounds many other things I can't think off right now Do do: Edit actions UI (you can now only edit the json file) On screen virtual gamepad (so it can replace the SBrick app for people without gamepads that still want more control) Make it pretty Documentation etc. The app is still in development, but the source is available to download from my GitHub if you want to play with it already: https://github.com/BarakRL I would love to hear your feedback!
  23. Tommy Styrvoky

    [MOC] IS-7 Heavy Tank

    Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr After more than half of a year, it is complete. More info on my Blog. Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Coming soon by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr 1/35th scale model also built by me for reference. 1/35 Trumpeter IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr 1/35 Trumpeter IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr 1/35 Trumpeter IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr
  24. Mercedes Benz Arocs Crane Truck Full rc MOC with 21motors, 2 sbricks. 100% lego orginal parts
  25. I've wanted to build another bike MOC for quite some time now, seeing that my Stealth Bike from 2 years ago had plenty of room for improvement. I wanted to make one that drives much faster and remains more stable than my Stealth Bike, and to get as much speed as possible out of the PF system. The idea for a second bike came after getting the 42054 set on discount. I saw the tires as a perfect opportunity for a bike, as their size means that I can make a bike large enough to fit all the electronic components inside. I also found that they are not easily tipped over, which is advantageous for a bike model. To reduce friction, I connected two L motors directly to a single wheel geared 1:1, which was a lot of speed for PF. In fact, I was very surprised that I did not have to use RC Buggy motors (which I don't have) to get such speed. The MOC features a modular build, with the rear wheel/suspension part being attached to the main body which housed the battery box, and the steering mechanism coming off of it. The suspension worked well and had decent range, and is not overly stiff. I used an interesting mechanism for the steering, which involved a servo motor controlling 2 links that steered the front wheel. However, I had to reduce the servo's angle to 45 degrees in the profile designer, as making the full 90 will cause the servo to stall. A small turntable allows the wheel brace (I'm not sure what you call that) to pivot as it steers, and there are handlebars that work. One thing I wasn't so happy with about this MOC is the large turning radius. Because I found large steering angles made the bike tip over easily, I had to make it small, and making U-turns in a reasonable space is nearly impossible. Another thing I didn't like is how steering must be done at low speed to prevent it from tipping over. This was worsened by the fact that it was quite windy the day I filmed it, which made it hard to control. Overall, this is a MOC I'm pretty happy about. I got lots of speed out of using just PF elements, and it did not become sluggish as weight was added on during the build. It was lots of fun driving it around, and remained quite stable without the use of support wheels Video: Photos: