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Found 7 results

  1. Hi. I was working on my car MOC (with a four-speed gearbox designed by Sariel) and had some unfortunate events happen. As stated in the title, the differential is somehow making the gear ratio higher than I need it. The gear moving the diff is moving at the same speed as the power input, but the wheel hub moves one rotation for every 3/4 rotation that I move the input shaft. Is this differential piece supposed to do this? I want the wheels to move at the same speed as the motor at 4th gear, which brings me to my next problem. I hear rapid-fire clicking noises every time my car is in 3rd and 4th gear. This happened to my other MOCs too, but I was able to solve it. Since the car is to be powered by two EV3 large motors, I actually believe there might be a clutch mechanism in the motors such as in the Technic linear actuators that also make a terrible clicking sound when they move all the way up or down. Whatever it is, I'm open to responses and hope the Eurobricks community could provide an explanation and solution about both of these issues. Here's some pictures, the orange and red pieces in the first pic were for testing the rotations. ' Thank you for your time.
  2. I was working on my MOC and I found there was a lot of gear skipping. The skipping comes from this, a small gear with bracing on only one side. The finger on the left points to what pieces the right points at. If I remove the bush that the right is pointing at, there is no other piece to put there, because it will rub against a 24t gear. I also can't make the axle longer because right in front of the bush is a 4L with stop with a different gear ratio. I can't find a solution in how to support this axle and I would appreciate some help, thank you.
  3. Hi, new here! I am a big fan of building Lego Technic RC cars but have a few (probably stupid) questions: When hardcoupling two motors, is a separate battery box required for each motor to improve the mechanical power? If I only use one battery box to drive both motors does is the power split between them? What are some ways of reducing stress on a drivetrain to prevent gears from slipping and grinding? Thanks, Nick
  4. Hello, I would like to show you a prototype of a torque distribution system for AWD cars. I made this because I am currently waiting for parts for my WRC car and when I thought about my next MOC I decided, that it should not be a rally car again, but still a motorsport vehicle and still have AWD, so i came across AWD touring cars. Among others, that also made it on the future moc list, the Nissan Skyline GTR R32 Group A came to my mind. Even though this car and especially its successors are a little "overhyped", it features an interesting AWD system, called ATTESA ETS. Basically it is a RWD drivetrain with a PTO to the front axle, connected by a multiplate clutch. This clutch is controlled by an ECU and steering, yaw, throttle and wheelspeed sensors. As I do not have any Mindstorms parts, I decided to use pneumatics to mimic the original system. How it works: The L-motor represents the normal RWD drivetrain as powersource. Yellow +o+ part represents front axle driveshaft. The differential is used as a clutch, when the diff housing is braked, torque will be transmitted to front axle. Braking is done by an 1x4 L-Beam that is pressed on an axle with a pinion gear. This pinion gear meshes with diff housing. Whenever the motor/driveshaft rotates, the pneumatic pumps are working, but the resistance is low, as long as the pneumatic valves do not seal the pneumatic system (air/pressure can escape). The valves are meant to be mechanical connected to throttle pedal and steering. When they are closed by throttle or steering input (or lack of it), the pressure increases and the cylinders press against the L-Beam. When pressure decreases again, the springs retract the cylinders. The pinion gear with friction pin is there for demonstration purpose (resistance at front axle). Video for demonstration: Maybe the new 2h2018 pneumatic valves will be useful in this case (better implementation, more precise). Of course the playability of this feature will be limited, especially as I am planning to make the vehicle non RC, but a normal AWD would be too boring. I hope you like it, its not very advanced but a little different to the usual AWD systems arround.
  5. After a little tinkering, I managed to create this self-locking differential. It locks when the car goes straight and unlocks when turning: A set of 12t gears are connected to the steering rack. When the rack is in the middle (and the car going straight), the two halfshafts are coupled together, locking the differential. When the rack moves to the left or right to steer the car, the 12t gears disengage with the 20t gears and let the differential act like an open diff: The main downsides I see with this setup are that the differential may stay locked during wide turns with small rack movement and the width of the axle is increased. A standard independent suspension with a differential and 68.8x36 ZR wheels (the combination I usually use) is 25 studs wide; with this feature it increases to 27.
  6. After my most recent toyota hilux trial buggy build, I wanted to build a simple trial truck that was very strong. My goals were: No gear "grind" in steering or drivetrain Powered by XL motor and steered by M Normal battery box (non-lipo) No special parts so that many people can build The strongest (in my opinion) suspension type is ball-joint with reinforcing link. So I used my ball joint suspension idea with internal gear reduction from last year: Total gear reduction is 3:25 on 1x PFS XL. It has very good suspension and climbing capabilities, as well as meeting all my goals of no gear grind in steering or drive. Video:
  7. I got through the first two thirds of building, and I tested the drivetrain. The wheels are turning in opposite directions from each other, so the vehicle can't drive. I've tried flipping ad switching the motors and cables, but I can't find the problem. Any ideas?