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Found 49 results

  1. Hello everyone, as i didn't see any Mods topic for this set, i decided to start it myself, and to start, i would like to share with you the LDD file for the official set (not sure if there was one already), there are some parts missing and some pieces are not fully connected (could i have used developer mode to solve this? yes, but for some reason i decided just to place apart the pieces i couldn't fit in), here is the model: Missing parts: -x4 24118 Panels in Dark Purple (Brick-built and grouped in the model) -x11 6167281 (I didn't add any substitute) -x1 6187734 (The rope) LDD file:http://bricksafe.com/files/imanol/42069/42069.lxf And next is my modifications for this set so far, the first thing that i wanted to do was to put wheels and tires, and because this is an snow-themed set, i decided to put tumbler tires, and i knew that these tires didn't look good in those very wide axles, with these tires the vehicle would look silly, but after narrowing the axle a little bit, i think it is looking like an authentic snow expedition vehicle (it even looks like an JLTV from the sides), i also changed some colors, but is just a test (the model is still WIP): The goal is XL-Motor for drive, Servo Motor for steering and M or L-Motor for the winch (and possibly some lights): I hope you like it, i will try to make more improvements, and i am looking forward to see more modifications by any other member, have happy modding.
  2. Kumata

    Small track loop?

    I have limited room with which to build my layout and am trying to cram as many features into as small a space as possible. To this end I wondered if anyone knows of the most space-efficient way to create a reversing track loop. I found this in an old topic, but is this the smallest possible build?
  3. The factory my dad designed in the early 2000's now has a company to occupy my version of it! Introducing Rust-eze, which is a rust remover / chrome restorer product inspired by the one seen in the CARS / PLANES universe. I'm going to use this printed part wherever you see a yellow 1 x 4 x 3 panel to represent the logo, which means two go on each boxcar, two on the semi-trailer, and one on the company sign. The theory is this: The semi-trucks bring the chemicals used to make Rust-eze to the Factory to be manufactured into the rust remover. The pallets you see on the right side are filled at this location, then loaded onto boxcars to be shipped to the packaging facility, where the 55-gallon drums are unloaded and their contents put in individual bottles for retail sale or in larger bulk quantities for use in industrial purposes. This end of the factory has a ladder to the top of the smokestack. The other end also a small water tower on top of the roof as well as the personnel door. Inside view, with the detachable roof removed. I never finished this part, and probably never will as I haven't a clue what to put in here. The loading doors do open, and were modified from the original arched doors as they couldn't fit a forklift... then again, these doors might not either! The gantry crane can roll back and forth (red arrow), to and fro (blue arrow) or raise and lower the crane hook. (yellow arrow) Since string is not available in LDD, I placed the hook on the side of the model, but the crane should use this part here in real life. This model was heavily inspired by set 8486, (Mack's Team Truck) from 2011. I changed the model to seat one mini figure at the wheel, added new headlights and license plate plus revised the fenders and enlarged the cab. The rear of the semi features a opening door and fold-down trailer stand, while the cab has two moving driver's doors. The trailer no longer has opening sides, but it does have two opening rear doors and folding stand for when the cab pulls away. Speaking of the cab, the roof of the driver's compartment comes off and both doors open. I was inspired by this photo by JB Lego to build this boxcar as seen here. They are made to haul pallets of cargo, specifically Rust-eze rust remover in 55-gallon drum containers for commercial packaging at another facility in smaller containers. I hoped this factory would be of some use for some people, as the original always has been gathering dust in the basement since it was built, as seen below: This is the original factory that was by my Dad around the years 2000 - 2004. it was built with parts from several Sand Red supplemental packs available at that time. It does not feature any interior, nor does it have a removable roof. But this thing is built STRONG: you have to really put your weight on it to press the roof together. Here is the rear of the model. Comments, questions, suggestions, and complaints are always welcome! EDIT 6/3/18: Added a "chain link" fence to the perimeter of the model for a gritty, industrial, wrong-side-of-the-tracks look.
  4. I have just came up with the idea of building a stage lighting gantry out of straight/curved roller coaster track (as seen on 70922 Joker Manor for example) https://brickset.com/parts/6210815/rail-13x13-1-4-circle-w-3-2-shaft I wonder if anything with a 'clip holder' (e.g. 4085 https://brickset.com/parts/design-4085) can attach to the central cross-members between the rails?
  5. Hi, my name is Victor and I've loved Lego since I was a little kid but haven't built something in like 17-18 years. This all changed when my girlfriend gifted me with the BMW R1200 (I also love riding bikes). After initially just wanting to get another Lego bike or two to put up for display, I realized that I wanted to build my own creations again. Bought 42065, and thought how to improve it, but so many things have changed that the learning process took a while. My goal was to create a tracked vehicle that would be somewhat fast, but also easy to control / maneuverable. I decided that 2 speeds would be enough. Also, to be able to switch gears by remote control, to have suspension and maybe a nice but ultimately not too heavy body. I now think of it as a kind of vehicle that would race in a fantasy version of the Dakar Rally (if tracked competitors would be a thing). Features: - 1x BuWizz - 2x L Motor for drive (skid steer) - 1x M Motor for gear change - 2x 2 Speed transmission (1:1 and 3:1 ratios, neutral) - Soft suspension with good travel - Detailed-ish body, with easy removal Photos taken by a friend. DSC_3813-edit by Victor T, on Flickr DSC_3815-edit by Victor T, on Flickr DSC_3818-edit by Victor T, on Flickr DSC_3820-edit by Victor T, on Flickr DSC_3822-edit by Victor T, on Flickr DSC_3823-edit by Victor T, on Flickr The gear changing mechanism: from and M Motor, via 2 clutch gears, move 2 changeover catches. DSC_3826-edit by Victor T, on Flickr Gearboxes: DSC_3829-edit by Victor T, on Flickr Here's a video of me trying to negotiate a simple obstacle course (4 times :) ) - climb over some books, change into 2nd gear, accelerate and show off :P I could have refined the design more, but I want to move on to other projects, the wheeled kind :) I will likely build a "trial" version of this in the future. Praise, but especially criticism is welcomed :) Nice to meet you, Victor
  6. One of the major problems of using my Eads bridge at shows is it's only one track wide.... so, I devised a western double-track wooden and iron structure using instructions from an old instruction I found on my hard-drive. (Originally from a defunct website / magazine called Railbricks and in a more modern concrete-looking format). This double structure is about 300 less parts than my single track Eads bridge and sits at the same height / length, so it can fit in the same spot. There are no bricks above track level at the beginning of the bridge so it works with even 10 wide trains or curves / switches immediately off the bridge! (This is unlike the Eads bridge, which cannot have turns right after it.) This trestle has about a track and a half of space between bridge end and truss section for an engine to straighten out on. The 10-wide BTTF time train fits easily though the bridge with room to spare! (time train not included in LDD file!) The new trestle is the same height and length as the Eads bridge, but with double the width for 300 less parts. The Eads bridge is also modular in construction, while the new one is not. (Eads bridge not included in LDD file!) LDD file for the wooden bridge (NO time train or Eads bridge in file!) is available at Brick-safe. Comments, Questions and complaints are always welcome!
  7. Hi, I'm just getting the hang of LDD. It's very addictive! After a few basic models with simple bricks I have moved on to my first Technic model. I am having a go at the mini-bulldozer in Lego Technic set 8259. You can see the model has two tracks, formed of 23 x part #15379. I have created two strips of track but don't know how to connect the ends together to form a loop. How do you "pick up" one end and loop it round to connect to the other end? Can anyone help me out please? Many thanks! Stefan
  8. Capparezza

    Track my collection

    Hello there! Is there any concensus about what to use when tracking ones LEGO collection on the web: Is it rebrickable.com or brickset.com? Or maybe another website? I have a medium mixed collection, lots of sets, some with missing parts which I would need to take note of, as well as lots of single bricks / plates / whatever. I'd love to hear your input on what you think would be the best tool for the job. Thanks & Regards, Chris
  9. Hi all, In January 2014 I build a small 9v LEGO train layout. I use Mindstorms nxt 2.0 to control the trains and switches. Now I’ve found this video, I’ve uploaded to my YouTube Channel. The layout works like this: 1. Both trains are running on the outer track. The nxt motor controls the big yellow button on the Speed Regulator. 2. Due to small differences in the train motor and the weight of the trains, the come closer to each other. 3. If the distance between the two trains is to small (less than 3 seconds, seen by the ultrasonic sensor), the last train drives to the inner track and stops over there for 10 seconds. A nxt motor switches the switch. 4. The train on the outer track keeps driving. 5. After 10 seconds the train on the inner track moves to the color sensor, just before the switch and stops. 6. If the train on the outer track passes the other switch (ultrasonic switch), the train on the inner track starts moving to the outer track. 7. Then it all starts over again. Let me know what you think about this layout! I’m also curious how you guys control your trains and switches. Any automation with Mindstorms?? ?
  10. mrseven

    Just an idea for switches

    Hallo, here is just an idea of a pait of switches which are parallel an uses a 40 and a 56 radius. just let me know in the comments what you think of this idea.
  11. Hi all, I recently picked up an old bundle of 9v stuff and I'm a bit stuck with son power issues and hope someone can help. I'm a 12v guy so I'm a bit lost! ?. The transformer seems to work. I can't get any power to the track. If I connect a cable from the transformer to the motor directly it works fine (or seems to anyway). When I connect the track connector cable to the track it just won't work. I've tried cleaning the track etc. Also, if I leave the normal 9v cable connected to the motor and then place it on the track with the track connector attached it cuts the power to the motor. Does that make sense to anyone? Haha. Hope someone can help as I'm baffled. Cheers!
  12. Hi there! my latest moc is a mini track loader. it has a funtioning front blade, tilt, lift, and a rear cabin door. This was built to be like a lego set, and use color vomit in areas. I may make a b model, to make it like a real set. My neighborhood is also getting repaved, and they were using one, so it works. enjoy, and comment thoughts. instructions and parts list uploading. here https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B-2NrU9MqJ-WSXpHR3VjY2p5R1k?usp=sharing
  13. Already two years ago, I got inspired at defeating steep hills with the LiteJeep. That could already beat 50 degrees, but because of its high riding height (good for offroading) and relatively heavy PF L motors, I reckoned there would be more irons to put into the hill-climbing fire. Very important things for hillclimbing are sufficient grip, huge power and a low weight. Weight ultimately gives more grip, but it also causes the vehicle to flip earlier when it is located above the center of gravity. With these factors into the equation, I decided to create a vehicle with loads of grip, so with 4 rubber tracks, and with articulated steering to make a sturdy connection between right and left possible, which is essential for climbing: when any vehicle is climbing, the suspension does unexpected things, so a stiff frame and suspension setup are required. Lightweight design requires a low complexity too, so that is why articulated steering is chosen. Having a front and rear part to let the vehicle adjust its shape to the terrain is an option I used several times in my rubber-tracked vehicles. This is the first vehicle in which I used the maximum footprint instead of the triangular form, again for maximum grip. Please note that, when you choose for the sturdyness and simplicity of articulated steering ánd want to let it adjust to the terrain, the middle joint becomes very complex as it contains joints in two axes! There is always a place where pain comes back. The Law of Conservation of Pain holds here.. In this case, all the trouble was in the difficult joint, which took about 5 hours alone. Then for the power: initially an XL motor was used in the front, but having a driveshaft through the already complex dual joint proved to be impossible. And then the idea came. Why not generate the power at the place where it is needed? Why not, if there are two separate parts, have some powerplant in both front and rear? But then there was a problem: I have a very large project in which all my three L motors are used. This pushed me in the direction of using M-motors, which proved out to be a very good forced choice. Combined with the lightness of the overall model, they proved to have ample torque left with a 3:1 gear ratio, having enough torque to keep the four tracks spinning all time when grip was lost. This is amazing, and you can see why Lego has put two M motors in their latest Tracked Racer. But the limits of that thing are way lower than the Quattrack's limit. Using two PF medium motors for drive and one for steering, this one of my very few (and maybe the last) Lego Technic MOC with only 2006 components. The Sbrick will throw all range headaches away and have much less delay than the stone-age PF IR remote it is replacing. Why did I use such standard power functions components? The new PF servo is slow and quirky, a medium motor allows for much more smoothness in steering. Moreover, if you are driving at steep slopes like this, it asks all your concentration to keep it on the move. If you cannot feel where the remote control knobs are (The intrinsic problem of the Sbrick) the vehicle will fall of before you've compensated. So the old system proved to be the best system in this situation. The articulated joint actually contains 3 joints, to have a suspension force on it in both directions: up and down. That is why there are rubber bands and one shock absorber. By the way, also the steering joint is included. Now, because the front and rear part of the Quattrack are relatively conventional (no steering nor differentials), all the pain of good and accurate steering is shifted to the design of this central joint. I dare to state that the success of this vehicle relies for a big part on this 2D joint. In the video, the operation is explained. On this photo, it looks as if the ground clearance is half a stud. This is not the case; in fact, it is over 1 stud. The underside is very smooth, which helps the low superstructure to glide over obstacles. Because of the weight saving, I designed it to have very clean looks. Styling means more weight. However, I managed to squeeze in some little details like fake cabin flashing lights, front lights, rear lights, cabin seats and a steering wheel. The reason why I did this, is that I wanted it to be a possible real-life vehicle as well, not just a scientific experiment. Adding weight is bad for climbing ability, so I tested the Quattrack also with the cabin removed and say what !!? The climbing angle was the same. This front look shows all that. The Quattrack contains everything, but nothing more. You do not need a zillion pieces of Lego to break records. Only 556 grams of it is sufficient in some cases. The video is the proof of all my theories... [media] I have not put all text and photo's on Eurobricks. More is to be found on Brickshelf and MocPages. If you like my video's, you might want to take a look on my YouTube channel.
  14. Hi everyone, Here's an older MOC virtually no one has seen. It's my first fully RC model: Thanks! C&C PLEASE! BrickbyBrickTechnic
  15. Our first three types of custom train tracks are ready and available in our Bricklink store. The goal is to make an extended track system for LEGO trains so you have a much higher flexibility in building your layout; just like we did for the monorail. Let us know if there are any other types of track you would like to have... FYI: the tracks are printed with a custom developed Dark Blush Gray abs filament so that our tracks match the color of the LEGO RC tracks: the cross track below is 3D printed, the straight track below is a genuine LEGO track.
  16. LittleJohn

    Rock Wrecker

    My second build for the 2017 LEGO Speeder Bike Contest, for the Overkill Oval category. The track was probably the most difficult part of this build, and it ended up going through several iterations before settling on the current design. Ready to tear through opponents, the Rock Wrecker’s brutal saw and powerful laser are a deadly combination. And if things really get out of hand, its deployable missiles in the hidden undercarriage compartment end things with a bang. More pictures on Brickbuilt Thanks for looking, C&C welcome
  17. Hello All, I am looking for 12v trains that are 100% complete along with track and transformers to start my 12v collection. I am in the U.S. so I have had a hard time finding any 12v trains for a decent price. Please comment here or PM me with information if you are willing to sell any Thanks, -Cameron Muir
  18. duifkelego

    12 volt track modification

    Hi All , just signed in to this forum cause I was wondering about something .... I'm into the 12 volt train system again and was wondering about modified 12 volt track . Hs anyone done some modifiyng on tracks , switches ,etc. ? Here's some pics of my own creations untill now... A half straight track with original contacts a point prototype with same angle as 2 curved rails Let's see what you guys have !
  19. We're currently working on a number of additional track types for the monorail system. Over the last few months we had a few requests for a 'monorail track tile': a tile with a monorail rail on it. Integrating monorail track into the pavement of a city layout is be one the potential applications. The tile itself is pretty straightforward, getting that tile connected with the standard monorail track is not. You can see a first prototype of these tracks below. On the right you have a prototype of a 4x8 prototype tile; on the left you see an adapter to connect that tile to the standard monorail track. It works but the ramp is too short and it's rather bumpy when the train goes over it. We're going to redesign the connector as a 4x16 ramp. The final ramp would also be printed at a higher resolution to have a smoother surface. Making curves with this system would not be straightforward either, the main issue here is that different sections along the curve all would require different connectors to match the stud pattern below. But that's not unfeasible to make, but it would be a bit of a puzzle to assemble the track. Another idea that I had was to add a 'narrow gauge train track style connector' to the tiles, as such you could assemble them without needing a base plate; that might be handy for the curves. These are just prototypes to explore the possibilities of this system. What do think ?
  20. My daughter is trying to design a Mindstorms robot for her school's FLL league in LDD, and would like to use rubber tracks instead of wheels. Neither of us could figure out how to put two rims into the track, part # 56145 Rim Wide w. Cross 30x20 fits on one side of the track, but not on the other one, like it would on a real model. Has anyone found a way to actually use these rubber tracks successfully in LDD? Thank you!
  21. I am sure this has been done in various variations over the years after Lego ceased production of train track crossing (last produced in 1999 for 9v tracks). I only have PF train tracks so I made my own version. Below is a Bluerender rendered version I put together in LDD and below that are actual brick built. Note that the track requires to be raised as a result, by a brick, or at least 2 plates. Update: Here is the updated crossing only image that has a center tiled section to help with 2878c01 train wheels which have a narrower wheel spacing. Train Track Crossover Ver2 Crossing only by Miro Dudas, on Flickr https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3ME1BfzxExrR3YtRVN5Vi1hUEE Miro
  22. We have been working on a software to design and automate LEGO train and monorail layouts. The first BETA version of nControl is out and can be downloaded for free from the 4DBrix site. It has a track planner for train and monorail layouts and has the first elements of the automation simulation: track switches, traffic lights and sound effects. We also have 2 YouTube videos to get you started. Download link: https://www.4dbrix.com/downloads Getting started videos: https://youtu.be/wddnCAJZTlQ https://youtu.be/w2RDMXt1sgQ Let us know what you think; any feedback, suggestions or ideas for additional features are welcome! Lowa
  23. Hi everyone, I have created a small landscape based on the first novel of the Harry Potter series. The scene is the first time that Harry is in Gringotts with Hagrid by his side and they are escorted by Griphook through the caves. I wanted a few tracks in the built and one of the tracks needed a drop. I was glad that I had the right tubes to create the track. Here is a picture of the built. Here is the link to my Flickr album. https://www.flickr.com/photos/137652851@N07/albums/72157673161817395/with/29253037211/ The photo's are also on my brickshelf account. http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=564894 Questions and feedback are welcome. Sander
  24. Here is the result of spending a few restful days at the seaside with a handful of arctic sets: the Goliath, a heavy arctic snowcat. It is built from parts coming from the other arctic vehicles in order to combine some of their play features. Arctic team in action by Veynom, on Flickr The Goliath is great at crossing any kind of difficult landscape: Goliath in Action by Veynom, on Flickr Arctic Goliath Snowcat by Veynom, on Flickr The Goliath is packed with many features; - forward cab to host the driver and an additional passenger with room for some equipment as well; - large storage compartiment in the centre to put 2 crates; - fully equipped lab at the rear side; - tow cable; - Plenty of powerful lights to enlighten the arctic night; - remote camera on the roof; - Additional storage locations around the vehicle to clip many different tools; - radar and radio antennas. Rien de tel pour épauler l'équipe : Goliath deployed. by Veynom, on Flickr Here is the lab: Inside the Goliath by Veynom, on Flickr More pictures: Arctic Goliath Snowcat by Veynom, on Flickr Arctic Goliath Snowcat by Veynom, on Flickr Arctic team in action by Veynom, on Flickr I know making an arctic vehicle during summer and taking pictures on the beach is not perfect as background for the model, sadly, I can't change sand into snow. ;) Arctic team in action by Veynom, on Flickr Arctic Goliath by Veynom, on Flickr I love holidays. I hope you enjoy yours as well.
  25. What is the best tank's width ? As you know, I am interested in tank and you can see my tests on this thread, http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=119844 During my tests, I found that the more the tank's width was big, the less the track goes out of his lane during a turn on a spot. I have the intuition that when the track follows a large circle, the friction caused by ripage is less. I guess this is because of the shorter distance of the extremities of the track and the perimeter of the circle. But how to prove it? I will like to make a video on the subject, but I have not done great studies and I'm afraid to say stupid things. Could someone explain this without too much math? Thank you in advance.