Imanol BB

Eurobricks Knights
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About Imanol BB

  • Birthday 05/22/1999

Spam Prevention

  • What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Lego, Rock and Unimogs.


  • Country

Recent Profile Visitors

3763 profile views
  1. Hello everyone, i haven't been active for quite some time because i've been quite busy with college, now that i got some free time i came here to say hi and to also notify that the folders with my various Technic "experiments" is now public to anyone interested, here is the link: I will try to get updated with all the new things that have been shared here and to keep sharing with the community, BTW how do i change my signature?
  2. Imanol BB

    [LDD] Jurassic World Vehicles MOCs

    Hi, sorry for the long wait, here is the file for the Pinz, i hope you enjoy it: World Pinzgauer 718M.lxf
  3. The differential has 28 teeth, when driven by a 20T gear there will be a 1.4:1 reduction
  4. Hi, if you are looking for the maximum performance then you shouldn't just consider gears and ratios, one important thing that we don't have with Lego is bearings, the axles rotate directly inside pinholes, its basically plastic to plastic movement which obviously creates lots of friction and hence power losses, so gearing up alone won't be necessarily enough, my advice for you would be to place the motors to have the most direct power transmission to the wheels, try to avoid using gearboxes or rooting the drive axles through too much holes, you should see Didumos Greyhounds buggy: You will notice that the 4 motors drive the wheels almost directly, rears just go through 1 set of gears each, and front ones just use a U-joint, the are no gearboxes/transmissions, no differentials, not too much places where the power of the motors will be lost as friction, only the hubs are the major point of power loss, even though that this MOC uses 3rd party power supply it still has an outstanding performance for those motors, one other example is RM8 Trophy truck: He used 2 buggy motors that literally drive the wheels directly, there are not even gear involved, the result is a very efficient power transmission from the motors to the wheels, so that's my advice, don't only consider types of gears and ratios, consider the other friction sources which will drastically affect the performance of your model; i hope this information results useful, i'm also interested in what kind of project you have in mind, i wish you luck with it.
  5. It depends of how much force they must transmit, this setup should work good with low torque and moderate speed, but once you start to increase any of these factors the problems come up, with too much torque this setup will surely wind up and jam, with too much speed the center section (blue) will have a lot of vibration because of the nature of the u-joints themselves, i am not sure if these angles are too sharp for the u-joints, but you could do a small test and if without any load you can see the setup starts to "jump" or jam then the angle must be decreased or you will need another setup.
  6. I must say i'm impressed, is good to see some new parts which might be game changing like the controlling system with so many channels and those longer (and fantastic) LA's , the price is a bit high but i think is just because of the new controlling system
  7. Hello, here is a topic about the use of third party tires which are compatible with standard Lego wheels, there are lots of different sizes, shapes and prices: In the case of this model you should look for 1.9" tires that fit the 56mm wheels that this model uses, i'm not sure if it could also work with the 43.2mm wheels and 1.55" tires, some research might give an answer to this; third party tires really give an amazing result in both driving performance and appearance, i hope you can find the one best suited for you and also see some pictures if you get them in the Tatra, good luck.
  8. I am very sad to hear that, those designs of you are really impressive and have a lot of potential, have you ever considering getting your own 3D printer and making the parts by your own?, the printer may cost a lot at first, but it could be more efficient and cheaper for you in the long way, you could directly print, test and sell your parts faster and easier, and all profit would be only for you, it would be really cool
  9. Lego pumps have a check valve placed at their bottom part, since they compress a gas and not a liquid the check valve has to be as close as possible to the piston to avoid the air being compressed inside and not being pumped to the outlet. Maybe there was some kind of leakage in the hoses which caused the problem, and actually when you pump the pumps at different times is much more efficient and smoother than pumping them simultaneously, since you are dividing the power along side the cycle, it's much better to make 50% of the work first and then the other 50% right after that than doing 100% at once, you can use an smaller motor, a more compact arrangement and even run them faster.
  10. Something i would really like to see is a lunchbox or lock-right differential locker, they work like ratchets which drive the wheels, when going straight both wheels turn together like a normal axle, when cornering the outer wheel has a "free-wheeling" motion and it is able to turn faster than the inner one, in this case all the power goes to the inner wheel so this type of locker can affect the handling of the vehicle in some cases, but that's worth when using it for off-roading, when a wheel loses traction the locker engages and both wheels turn together like a normal locked differential, and it still lets the vehicle steer without the tires rubbing or the axle winding like a fully locked differential.
  11. i'm agree with this, some time ago i made an studded chassis using some brick beams and plates to hold them together, it was 9 studs wide, 50 studs long and about 6 plates tall, the shock absorbers were placed about 35-40 studs apart and the chassis came up to be very strong and robust, and even more compact than a chassis made only of technic beams, and depending of how it is built it can still give a lot of torsional flexibility or stiffness, depending of the need
  12. Hello, i would like to give some information in this topic, one thing we should take into account besides torque (or force) and RPM ( or speed) is power, power is the product of force and speed multiplied, we could say this is the maximum speed at which a maximum force can be applied, there are also limiting factors like peak speed and peak force, one way to imagine this whole thing is like a person is pulling a rope to lift an object, if the object is too heavy and the person can't lift it, it means it's beyond the peak force of the person, and if the object is too light, the person may have plenty of strength and will be able to lift it without a problem, but there will be a point in which he won't be able to lift it faster, even with the object being so light, the body of the person can't produce enough speed and this would be the peak speed, so the peaks are also important, this is why power is so crucial, force and speed can change drastically, but as long as they change proportionally inverted to each other the power will be the same, gears, levers and pulleys are examples of this, you can sacrifice speed in order to get more force or sacrifice force to get more speed, this is why power can mean a lot more than only speed or only force, you can get a very big force or very high speed with a fixed power, but this power is what determines how much of both you can achieve at the same time, the maximum or peak power would be the point in which you are using all of your force and all of your speed and can't increase any of the two even when you are not at their peaks, in the previous example , it would be the point where you are lifting the heaviest object at the maximum speed you can, that's your peak power. Now we know power is important, let's focus on the question, what happens if we add a second motor? if we assume that the second motor has the same speed and force (and hence the same power) of the first motor, and if it's coupled to that one directly without any change in the speed, then we should have twice the power, right?, not necessarily because that will be determined by the whole system, if the first motor was running with no stress but at its peak speed, this means it wasn't producing its maximum power, and if we add the second motor and there is still no stress or force produced, then the speed will be basically the same, the maximum speed the motor design allows but the power hasn't doubled, and you can stack an infinite quantity, of motors in the same manner and they won't increase the speed, however, once we start to make the motors apply a force, and if we achieve the peak power, then at this point adding more motors will increase the power proportionally, so, asking your question, if you add a more motors they will increase the power as long as they are running within their peak torques and speeds, if you have a car with 1 motor going uphill and its producing both peak power and peak torque, adding a second motor should theoretically double the speed, i hope this results useful, i will keep reading about this matter to make sure it is all correct and to give a better explanation if possible.
  13. Hello @Blichew and welcome to Eurobricks, i also own a Unimog and like you i also think that the pneumatic system isn't that great, maybe the use of the V2 Pneumatics could improve the functions of the set, more specifically in the crane of the A-model, but because it is still pneumatically actuated, the inaccuracy and bouncing of the moving parts can still be a problem, the other options is, as you say, a mechanical system, in my opinion something like the system used in the 42054 or 8258 would be useful, the main 3 functions of the cranes of those sets are turntable rotation, main boom elevation and secondary boom elevation, these 3 functions can be powered easily by the PTOs of the Unimog, using the base platform of the 42054 and the boom assembly of the 8258 should look and work properly on the Unimog, at the moment i'm not capable of doing it because i'm pretty busy right now, but i will try to make this idea, at least in LDD, if this idea works it will definitely be a very cool MOD to make this set even better