Imanol BB

Eurobricks Knights
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About Imanol BB

  • Birthday 05/22/99

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    Lego, Rock and Unimogs.


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  1. Help/advise

    hi Krisha, in my opinion it all depends of what you are going to build and the features it will have, you must consider these characteristics of the model: at which scale i will build it?, will it be driven, steered and/or suspended (in the case of vehicles), what functions i want to add? will it be motorized or manual?, all these things must be kept in mind even before starting to build, however, there can be times where you can get a pretty good idea and try to make a model out of it, for example, you could make a nice axle design, and if you want to make a model out of it, the entire model must be built around that scale, and i also recommend to first build the more complex parts which are difficult to resize, i consider that the axles tend to be these, in my case i do the following: i first build the axles at the scale i want the model to be, then i start to build the chassis, and once i test all the "backbone" parts (axles, chassis, suspension, drive, steering and possibly motors) i start to make the body, in my opinion you should always start to build the model around the part which is more difficult to edit or resize, this way its easier to make the whole model around it and you dont end with an impossible-to-achieve project.
  2. Hello, here is the folder with my modifications made to the BWE (including the LDD files for A and B models), I don't remember if i uploaded it before, but anyways, here it is, hope you enjoy it:
  3. Hi, I have tested your design for that catch mechanism and got the same problem, after making some tests i found a much more effective design, the larger crossblock, here are some pictures of the digital prototype: As you can see, it has a gear reduction, this will also help the motor to unlock the mechanism when needed and with more torque; important note, this catching mechanism might require the motor to apply force to lock the system too, which means that both locking and unlocking are made actively by the motor, this could be seen as a disadvantage, but it could help to make continued fork movements without the need to unlock the system, i hope this works for you, i will also try to make improved systems if you need them.
  4. Hi, what about using a trigger-like mechanism driven by another motor, imagine it as a crossbow or a catapult, when the system is fully charged engage the trigger motor to lock the forks and when they need to be activated, just unlock or disengage the trigger motor to be able to move the forks, is a rough idea that i have so far, maybe if you could share more detailed pictures i could be able to make a digital design for such triggering mechanism, i also hope to see more about this cool creation, it looks really cool.
  5. Lifting heavy loads

    Hey Tom, i made some experiments in LDD, and made some kind of heavy duty hook, 2 versions actually, the right one uses the cross hole wheels, and each one has its own 2L axle (the red ones in the pictures) for independent rotation (note that the 2 parts with the 1 1/2 pins at the sides are meant to be placed in the 3x5 frame to avoid the 2L axles from displacing and popping out), now, left one uses wheels with pinholes, which means that a single axle can go through all the pulleys and they will still be able to turn at different speeds, here are some pictures: I hope these designs can be inspiring for you, i will try to see if i can think of some improvements, but so far that is what i have achieved.
  6. Hi Jim, welcome to Eurobricks, did you add the small rubber pieces to the chain links?, if they are already added and you still have not enough traction you could try to buy some more and add them, or place some rubber bands on them, i think i saw a video some time ago about how to put rubber bands for big tracked models, i will see if i can find it for you.
  7. Lifting heavy loads

    Hi, welcome to Eurobricks, i really like the experiment you have done here, its really impressive how one can create such a massive power by just arranging gears and pulleys, maybe you could make a modification to the tackle, and build it like the hook of a heavy lifting crane to make it much more stronger and reliable, i attach an image for reference, it is a Liebherr LR13000 Hook, it is composed of 6 "modules" of 5 pulleys each one, which are then placed in 2 "groups" of 3 modules each, and the 2 groups are then connected to the main block or structure: Maybe you could make a similar version in Lego, for example, making a "module" of 2, 3 or 4 pulleys, and making about 3, 4 or more modules, and connect them individually to a rigid and strong beam, this way the stress in the parts would be drastically reduced, as the force is much more distributed along all the pulleys, however, your design has proven to be pretty and strong too, holding 100Kg is not easy task and is almost sure that some pieces will get hurt. I think you did an amazing job sharing this experiment, and i hope to see more of your creations in a future.
  8. Liebherr LR 11000

    Hi David, welcome to Eurobricks, i first saw this model earlier in Facebook, and i first thought it was a very big scale metal crane or some non-lego thing, but when i saw closer images i couldn't believe it was actually made of pure Legos, its extremely cool how big and detailed this model is, and also the functions it has, it is truly amazing, i also think it deserves to be in the Hall Of Fame, i hope that the Liebherr company could take a look at your model, nice work.
  9. Hello, Here are some updates, first, following RM8's advice i have modified the G300 drive train, now it is able to use the 28T differentials, the rear axles have a pretty basic transmission system, which obviously has a lot of power loss, but this was due to some lack of inspiration, maybe in a future it will be better, i have also added a 3 point link suspension in the rear axles, is not the same used in the real thing, but it should do the job, here is how it looks so far: I have also made some minor improvements to the Mog axle, i tested the integrity and the strength of the axle, and it is surprisingly good, i wish i had a servo motor so i could fully test it, but it works pretty good when manually steered: I have made some other modifications in the Zetros, but i will upload them later, when they get a better look. And i have also started to work on an old idea, a Portal Planetary Axle, and i have just discovered that Tatra has used this idea in their T 810 truck (pretty nice, actually), so i am trying to make the super heavy duty version of it, to fit large sized vehicles, more details will come soon:
  10. I think that a good modification to solve this problem would be to add differentials to the outriggers drive train, so even when an outrigger has reached its maximum length, it wont start to skip until all the remaining outriggers reach their maximum length too, i will see if i can get the LDD file for the model and test this modification.
  11. It might be a gearing issue, you can check the gear arrangement on all outriggers and make sure all of them have the same gear ratios, basing in the description of the problem, the difference of the gear ratios between the outriggers would cause some of them to complete all their movement before the others, resulting in that "skiping" noice.
  12. Hi @Svart, welcome to Eurobricks, the Lego pneumatic parts usually do this, as it uses air, it needs a bit of time take enough pressure to operate the various cylinders, and the grabber can even take longer, as there are more hoses thus there is needed much more air to achieve enough pressure, and also because it has an small pneumatic cylinder it can take longer to move, about the solutions, i would recommend you to first build all the pneumatic system separately, just connect the pump, hoses, cylinders and valves together, check that there is no major leaking of air (you should look for any important leakage inside the cylinders and valves, and also check that the hoses have no punctures or leaking), and once you are sure everything is working as it should, build the truck completely, and once you do this check the pneumatic functions again, if everything works fine, and you are sure there is no leaking, you can now work on speeding up the pneumatic pump, a simple gearing up can help you with this, and an small tip i can give you to make the grabber move faster, you can maintain all valves closed and wait for the pump to build up enough pressure inside the system, once this happens you can open the valve for the grabber, this should make it open pretty fast (assuming that there are not additional problems), i hope this works for you, if you need any more help feel free to ask, you can also upload a video showing the problem, so it is easier to understand what else could you need, good luck with your Arocs.
  13. Axle Collection Thread

    As i can see, you can easily achieve drive in the axle by using CV joints, it wont affect the turning pivot, but the only problem would be to stack gears in the 7x5 frame, as it would require to move the half axles pivot point 1 stud up, which would affect the clearance a lot, but for me, that scale is perfect for a driveless suspended vehicle, specially a Tatra.
  14. @jrx, i have just seen a video of some models in a expo, including this red Zetros you made, and a very similar one but in black, is it yours too?