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Found 10 results

  1. I took two bridge designs (lattice girder and truss) and combined them. I know it isn't realistic, but the design is the best I could come up with. However, the truss part is removable via Technic pins, so it can become more viable for display at shows or home layout use. Here is the bridge with the top trusses on. The bridge with the top trusses removed. The 18 Technic holes could be used for decoration of some sort. The two ramps (which are included in the LDD file) use two-thirds of a brick every 16 studs over three track-lengths to make the gap from base-plate level to full bridge height. PLEASE NOTE: Their is a height restriction for the bridge with the top attached if you use the Maersk double-stack train cars or anything taller than set 10014 (My Own Train - Caboose). The bridge will simply not fit anything taller without modifications. (The train car is NOT included in the LDD file!) Here is my original inspiration for the bridge, courtesy of Flickr user Fireglo450: lattice girder bridge on Flickr The Lego Digital Designer file for my model is here: LDD file This bridge will be built in real life sometime around January 2017. Comments, Questions, & complaints are welcome!
  2. This through-truss bridge design was originally downloaded by me (I don't remember the name of the original designer who created the bridge) from the LEGO Factory / Design By ME page in 2010-ish and was never built in real life due to questions about it's strength. I came across it again while looking at my MOCpage account's older files and made it into the version seen above using newer parts and a longer frame quite a while ago. (and as to those original questions about it's strength: It's built like a safe, yet I can pick it up with a single finger by the top..... just don't drop it, because the reddish brown parts won't survive the landing!) More recently, I revised the deck where the track goes to be able to take the RC track up and be able to put down 9V down more easily. (We run 9V trains at shows in Gateway LUG.) In short, the track is now more easily removable to become 9V, 12V, or even a road bridge. The bridge fits any of my trains, and should fit all official LEGO trains except for double stack containers such as sets 10219 (Maersk Train) and 10170 (TTX Intermodal Double-Stack Car). Comments, questions, and complaints are always welcome! Many more Wild West items can be seen in my Historic sub-forum topic here.
  3. I had a spare truss bridge model lying around and thought it could use a revamp. Then I thought of the turntable I had designed, and realized it could use a transfer table companion model. Thus, this transfer table was finished just today. The whole table moves on four wheels at the edges and three guide-ways in the center. The model sits on four vintage 32 x 32 stud base-plates arranged in a square. I'm currently thinking about slicing up what's left of a gray 48 x 48 into a strip for the leading tracks to rest on. The height from the track to the top of the truss-work is a hair shorter than 13 1/3 bricks tall, which is tall enough for most locomotives but not enough for cabooses, extra-tall double stacked container cars and double-decker lounge cars. The length of the table is four tracks long, which is plenty for any of my single-unit locomotives or official LEGO models. (Diesel cab and booster units will have to be split up to fit, however.) In progress shot of me loading a 4-8-2 steam locomotive onto the table. Lining up the tracks as perfect as can be is key to keeping the loco on the rails and steady! Moving any loco sideways is easy enough to do with one hand... lining it up and rolling the engine off, however, needs steady two hands and a good eye. A better pic of it lined up at the shed track after unloading the steamer. Please NOTE: There is a two stud gap (and a bit of incline) between table and lead-in track: It is NOT 100% flat! Comments, suggestions, complaints, and compliments are always welcome!
  4. I could not find any threads here, nor pics on Google, of wooden roof trusses so I came up with this design. Many homes have exposed roof trusses, along with commercial and industrial buildings. These particular trusses go in my train engine shed used to service train engines. Although they are not needed for strength they do add a nice architectural design element to the building. Feel free to copy or comment, hope you like!
  5. One of the major problems of using my Eads bridge at shows is it's only one track wide.... so, I devised a western double-track wooden and iron structure using instructions from an old instruction I found on my hard-drive. (Originally from a defunct website / magazine called Railbricks and in a more modern concrete-looking format). This double structure is about 300 less parts than my single track Eads bridge and sits at the same height / length, so it can fit in the same spot. There are no bricks above track level at the beginning of the bridge so it works with even 10 wide trains or curves / switches immediately off the bridge! (This is unlike the Eads bridge, which cannot have turns right after it.) This trestle has about a track and a half of space between bridge end and truss section for an engine to straighten out on. The 10-wide BTTF time train fits easily though the bridge with room to spare! (time train not included in LDD file!) The new trestle is the same height and length as the Eads bridge, but with double the width for 300 less parts. The Eads bridge is also modular in construction, while the new one is not. (Eads bridge not included in LDD file!) LDD file for the wooden bridge (NO time train or Eads bridge in file!) is available at Brick-safe. Comments, Questions and complaints are always welcome!
  6. This bridge design was originally downloaded by me (I don't remember the name of the original designer who created the bridge) from the LEGO Factory / Design By ME page in 2010-ish and was never built in real life due to questions about it's strength. I came across it again while looking at my MOCpage account's older files and made it into the version seen above using newer parts and a longer frame. A big thank you to Wes Turngate over on Flickr for helping get the angle right to put the bridge supports in place. The LDD file is slightly different than the pictures as it is 2/3 of a brick taller to add in the proper parts to make it work. The bridge fits any of my trains, and should fit all official LEGO trains except for double stack containers such as sets 10219 (Maersk Train) and 10170 (TTX Intermodal Double-Stack Car). Side view of the bridge. The old design is on the left, new is on the right. (NOTE: The new bridge is in the LDD file, but the old one is NOT!) Here is the ldd file for the newer bridge: bridge link As usual, comment, questions and complaints are always welcome!
  7. Hi folks. I need some advice from people who have experience building large structures. I'm looking at building a GBC module that takes balls across a gap between two tables, that's high enough to walk under. I need a vertical lift of about 1.3m, and a horizontal travel of about 1m. Now, this would be by far the largest model I've ever undertaken, so my intention is to design the thing in LDraw before I buy anything. This means I can't see how sturdy the structure actually is, so I'm asking you all whether what I've designed so far is sensible. I've got two slightly different truss designs. One that I think would go better for the vertical parts, and one for the horizontal. Each is a single unit 16 studs in length, with the idea that you join as many units together as you need to get the length/height required. First, the vertical segment: And what three of them together look like: I feel that this truss is going to be strong in compression/tension, but all that space in the middle makes me nervous - is the 5x7 frame box going to be solid enough to make it strong in torsion as well? Next, the horizontal segment: And three of them together: This one I think would be quite resistant to bending in the up/down direction (exactly what you want for a horizontal beam supported at its ends), less so in the side/side direction, but also strong in compression/tension. This one would be somewhat heavier than the other - overkill? or is the extra strength warranted? I'd appreciate your thoughts on these two truss designs. If you want to see the .ldr file that these images came from, it's here. Regards Owen. P.S. If anybody wants to take these and make them into a tower crane for [TC8], go right ahead. EDIT: Yes, I know there are no triangles. I am relying on the rigidity provided by the 5x7 frames in place of diagonal bracing.
  8. This truss bridge's design was started a decade ago when I received CITY set 7900 (Heavy Loader) for Christmas 2006. I loved the truss part's Technic-y design, but it didn't work with my original black and red trains, so I shelved the parts, hoping that someday reality would catch up with my dreams. After about 4 years, I designed a workable bridge using most of the parts of Bionicle set 8995 (Thornatus V9) which was purchased for the parts alone in 2010. It looked bad and wasn't tall enough for most of my trains, so I tore it apart in 2012. (you can see it in the LDD screenshot above) I kept sitting on the idea for another year and a half until 2014, when I designed this current bridge. This bridge was just finished in Real Life yesterday due to constantly tweaking the design and perpetually fearing it wouldn't work right. The model is five tracks long, but the bridge itself is four tracks. The reason for the extra track is to give the engines preparing to cross the bridge room to straighten out from curves / switches. I still have another two pieces of flex track (not shown) before the bridge as well for evening five tracks out to six.... it makes layout planning so much easier when (mostly) everything is in even numbers of track. The model is not able to be doubled up to make a two track wide bridge without significant modifications. The model can fit 8 studs wide trains with ease, and is tall enough to let all my trains (and most, if not all, of the official sets) through. The bridge is even strong enough to be carried by the top grid-work, as long as you don't swing it around / slam it down hard. LDD file for the newer gray-scale bridge: http://www.moc-pages...1451924070m.lxf Comments, Questions, & complaints are always welcome!
  9. I just wanted to show you the status of my project for the TC8 contest. So I opted for a Fast Erecting Crane after watching from Cranes Etc on YouTube, being fascinated with the unfolding action of it, and wanting to build something different from what I've done before. It is loosely based on the Liebherr 81K, at least in regards to functions, but the looks are a bit more difficult to get right. First and foremost, this is not very Technical in terms of gears and stuff, but rather a study in truss construction (fundamental in most engineering disciplines), and using pulleys and cables (ropes) to achieve the desired functions. The main jib is close to a meter long when unfolded, but due to the truss construction and guy lines, it is pretty much perfectly straight/level, even if it's hinged only in one point. :thumbup: Like I mentioned in aminich's topic, I've had some problems to take pictures of it as it is very large when erected, but I'll try to take some tomorrow. I have a couple of pics of it in folded configuration. First, here it is on its dollies (I'll probably throw together a quick truck to go with it), all folded and ready for transport. The key function I wanted in this MOC is to have the actual foldability modeled reasonably accurate, so it will be able to go from this state to fully erected and ready for action in a manner similar to the real life counterpart. And next it is sat on its independently adjustable outriggers in the grass, waiting to be extended/unfolded: The outriggers seem to do their job.. There are four of them, in an X-configuration. I haven't done the counterweight assebly yet, but I hope five AA battery boxes will do the trick if placed correctly, as I don't have any more The main tower (yellow) has room for the inner tower (black) that is 5x5 in cross section. It extends to roughly twice the height it is in the picture. The jib consists of three parts; the black one (innermost) and two yellow ones (middle and outermost). The LBG parts are part of the guying system. I know it looks a bit messy, but trust me, it looks a lot more impressive when fully erected/extended Unfortunately, due to not having done the counterweight system yet, it would topple over if I tried to get a picture of it now. Anyway, still some issues to figure out, mostly in regards to the counterweights, but also a good solution for the hoist rope, and the trolley. Hope to have some more progress done by tomorrow!
  10. Man with a hat

    Modern Railway Truss Bridge

    Hello all, I can finally present you my new bridge. It is 304 studs long, so that's more than 2.4m (or almost 8 feet) and I used about 12500 bricks: The thought of making a bridge started years ago and the design also took quite some time with a lot of design iterations in LDD. I can still see where I can make some improvements though ... But for now I consider it finished. It was inspired by a bridge I used to cross quite often in my student days. (Link) To be honest I first thought of using the railway bridge on the other side of that city but that would have resulted in an even larger bridge... I have seen many other truss LEGO bridges using the TECHNIC bricks but I wanted to have a cleaner look: And I am also satisfied with the cross bracing on the top and bottom In the end it has some sagging in the middel of about four plates. It seems a lot but considering the span it actually poses no problems for my trains. I am also busy with the design for the sides of the bridge. There is still some space to fill. The idea is to make a road underneath with a bicycle path next to it. But what do you think? Feel free to comment.