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Found 28 results

  1. MPATEV-01 -> Multi Purpose All Terrain Vehicle 01 LDD file DOWNLOAD The attachments and other photos: WIP TOPIC MPATEV-01 -> Multi Purpose All Terrain Vehicle 01 Hello there! haven't been on the forum for some time and seeing such a contest pop up was a truly delight. Of course first ideas were of the movies "Martian", "Avatar", and "Interstellar", and the idea of building a spaceship seemed exiting. Therefore, i made a sketch of a VTOL transport ship: However building a freighter or a spacestation didn't exite me so much afterall (absolutely nothing to do with my unfinished tc15 plane ) so the next obvious idea was a rover. A human-manned one of course. Seeing that the currents WIPs were using wheels, I had a quick browse through lego sets of space/sci-fi themes and quickly found the Exo-Force 8118. It had a combination of double tracks in front and a single wheel in back that got me interested, as it was unusual and cool-looking, so this sketch came to life: It was originally planned to use brick-built tracks on front but small track links with turntables for central wheels should work. Most probably double offroad motorcycle tyres on rear (better start saving up for PP wheels duh). Obviously doubly buggy motors with 1.667:1 reduction + nuclear reactor BuWizz to power this thing. Current progress:
  2. Hello! The 42069 was the first set I’ve bought for about 15 years, and despite my initial intention to play with it together with my 4-year-old son, I soon got into modding it quite heavily, and he went back to his City and 42023. :) So here’s what I’ve done to it so far. ADDED COMPONENTS List of motors and electronic components added to the model: 4x PF L motors 1x PF XL motor 2x PF M motors 2x PF Servo motors 1x PF switch 24x Brickstuff LEDs 2x BuWizz 1x sBrick some PF & Brickstuff wires DRIVE The drivetrain/axle design is mostly RacingBrick’s design with 4x PF L motors (one for each track/wheel connected directly) and a Servo for steering, with some cosmetic changes to avoid self-disassembly of the suspension on rough terrain. ORIGINAL FUNCTIONS Both side compartments now house BuWizz units, the walls separating them from the middle section have been removed, and the space itself no longer exists, taken by a single sBrick and quite a lot of wires (more about the setup later). The fire extinguishers now sit right next to the seats, ready to use. The shovel drawer remained in place and functional, now also containing the first-aid kit. Pretty much all of the truck’s functions have been motorised, similarly to RacingBrick’s version. I left the rising door mechanism unchanged, I think it’s really cool as it is. WINCH The winch mechanism has been completely ripped out and rebuilt. To provide greater momentum, I used the more powerful XL motor, which I installed right behind and below the front bumper. The first version of the winch was geared 1:1 using three consecutive 32072 knob wheels for extra durability over standard gears, but since they kept getting stuck, I replaced them with regular 16 tooth gears. I considered an alternative setup involving a worm screw, but I wanted to maintain decent speed of the winch. The whole mechanism fitted inside the original bumper design which I modified later (it looked a bit thin to me), so if you like the big motor but not the puffed up front bumper, you should still be able to employ it. Since I didn’t use a clutch gear (which would have ruined the performance), to protect the XL motor from being turned on accidentally a safety-valve was installed in the form of a PF switch, activated with a turn of the gear/knob originally used for the winch. The original tiny hook has been replaced with the 70644 metal hook for extra durability. Alternatively, I sometimes attach the 95354 anchor - it looks a bit freaky, but so does the whole model, and it’s the best solution for hooking the winch up. OTHER There are also two PF M motors: one powering the fake V8 engine, geared up 5:3, and the other one raising the roof. LIGHTING I put a lot of work into the light system of the model with the use of Brickstuff LEDs. Without the additional lights on the interchangeable roof racks the lighting comprises of 24 LEDs: two for each of the main headlights, one for each bullbar light, six blinking turn signals (including one light on each of the wing mirrors), two lights on the original roof rack below the antennae, two taillights (white LEDs under trans-red tiles), four stop lights (similar as taillights next to the reverse lights plus red LEDs under trans-clear round tiles on the trunk door) and two reverse lights. The LEDs are powered from one of the BuWizz outputs via a Brickstuff PF power source with variable outputs. This certain piece deserves a few more words, especially for the readers unfamiliar with Brickstuff. One of its three outputs is always on (thus, all LEDs except for the turn signals, stop lights and reverse lights light up the moment BuWizz connects with the controlling device) and the other two outputs depend on the PF channel activation; in this case the BuWizz output for the lights is synchronised with the steering Servo, resulting in lighting up the corresponding blinkers. Lastly, the stop and reverse lights system involves another Brickstuff gimmick: magnetic switches. The circuit is closed when a small magnet (which fits inside a Technic axle hole) approaches the switch. I put the magnet inside a 1x2 thin liftarm, connected to a Servo, controlled in sync with the track motors. When the Servo is in neutral (with the model stationary), the magnet closes the circuit powering the stop lights. In reverse it approaches another switch, closing the reverse lights circuit, and in forward position it opens both circuits, cutting out the LEDs. (I know it’s a bit much to add a heavy motor just to control some lights, but I couldn’t think of a better solution - any ideas?) An extra bit of lighting comes in the form of two interchangeable roof racks, installed roughly in the location of the original HOG steering knob. I was curious about Brickstuff High-Power LEDs, so I put two of them behind some trans-clear 24116 curved panels and on the roof. The other version of the roof rack includes four regular LEDs similar to those put on the bullbar. The lights are connected to the main grid through Brickstuff vertical connector, which eliminates the need of connecting and disconnecting the fragile wires with every change of the racks or their complete removal. Since the complex lighting system tends to consume a considerable amount of BuWizz’s battery juice, I used another vertical connector to put together an additional master switch, disguised as a red toolbox and located between the dark green jerrycans on the roof rack. BRIDGING LADDERS The last modification, or rather some additional equipment is a pair of bridging ladders, which can be folded and stored on the original roof rack. Fully extended, they’re 49 studs long each (just a bit longer than the truck itself) and, although a bit flimsy, manage to support the weight of the model while crossing gaps or climbing obstacles. There’s also a removable, extendable ladder added to the rear door. CONTROLS As for the double BuWizz-sBrick setup and controlling the model: the BuWizz unit in the right side compartment powers both right L motors, the steering Servo and the winch, and the left unit powers the left L motors, the fake V8 and the sBrick. The raising roof, the LEDs and the Servo controlling the stop and reverse lights are all powered through the sBrick. That leaves one last sBrick output free for some other uses, i.e. motorising the doors. The whole setup is controlled through BrickController2 with the use of a physical controller (a bluetooth gamepad). The app works great with virtually no lag and allows for quick profile changes; I created two profiles: one for regular driving and one for tank driving. Obviously, all the extra elements made the model quite heavy - it now weighs 2700 grams on tracks and 2575 grams on Unimog wheels. However, 2x BuWizz units manage the weight rather effortlessly, especially in Ludicrous mode. OVERALL LOOK Having modified an already sticker-heavy model, I decided to go a little bit further and add some BuWizz & sBrick stickers and Brickstuff printed tiles (three of those came as bonus with consecutive shipments from Brickstuff). The front of the model now looks a bit bulkier with the new bumper, and the addition of the bridging ladders to the roof rack gave it an even more adventure-ready look. I replaced the 2654 trans-clear round tiles on the bull bar and roof rack lights with a trans-yellow variant - I like the look of yellow headlights on vintage race cars. Additionally, the 3069b trans-clear 1x2 tiles on wing mirrors have been replaced with trans-orange ones, because of their newly acquired function of blinkers. Ling to the gallery: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jUqAZh1uowBBGpubQmRs6vS1ASuVkIBU
  3. A relatively simple MOC - an articulated tracked vehicle with a tipping bed. It contains two PF IR receivers and three motors (1x PF L, 2x PF M). Power comes from a PF AA battery box. Functions/features: Driven tracks Articulated steering Tipping bed Opening cabin doors I built this MOC primarily because I wanted to make use of dark azure pieces. Video: Photos:
  4. Hey guys, here's a rather simple project I recently started. I wanted to build something that's highly playable and not too complex, so I decided to do a tracked vehicle of some sort. However, this one will be unique in that steering is not done by tank drive, or by traditional steering. It's by an articulation joint like a front loader. This model will have all-track drive, articulated steering, and a pneumatically tipped bed. The bed will be on the rear module, which will contain no motors. All motorization is done on the front module and the only things passing through the articulation joint/turntable are the drive axle and pneumatic hoses. Propulsion is done by a single L motor above the front differential, steering is done by a M motor that controls 2 linkages going in opposite directions with worm gears, and the pneumatics are controlled by a M motor that simultaneously drives a 6L pump and Sariel's autovalve. The mechanical elements do take up plenty of room in the front module, but once the bodywork is in place most of it should be concealed. My main purpose in building this MOC is to find an opportunity to really use dark azure Technic pieces. My Grapple Truck I6 and my current WIP Red Beryl X were both started with the intent of using dark azure pieces, but both times I was faced with a limited collection of them. I've recently ordered some extra dark azure pieces off Bricklink, and considering a cab on a model this size shouldn't really use that much pieces I think this finally be my first dark azure MOC. If you guys have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photos:
  5. Good news, everyone! From the second attempt, but I finally managed to create this monster from the past. So, T-1000, also known as TET - Turbo-Electric Tractor, was originally created in Soviet Union in the 70s. It has manually operated hood and simple door lock. And the most important and gorgeous function - Transformation! Yes, this unique tractor can be both wheeled and tracked! When tracks are unfolded, driver's chair turns aside to provide comfortable working conditions. All fuctions that are RC: -wheeled driving - L -tracked driving - 2XL -transformation - 3L -fake engine - M -steering - M -foldable plow - L Just for demonstration I've made a simple plow, which can be attached to the rear hook for transportation or to the side hook for working position. Plow's L-motor connects to the tractor's IR reciever and then it's folding can be RC operated as well. Video as always is here: Thanks for watching. I hope, you liked it. P.S. What do you think, what was the purpose for which this tractor was created by soviet engineers?
  6. Hi Newbie around here, used to play with lego back in the days and somehow got back into it but this time as grown up and and adjusted gaming budget ended up buying some Lego Technics models along the way (mainly stuff with tracks :) ). So got my hands on the 42065 Tracked Racer, really liked it but fell in love with the B-Model/Off Road Truck and started putting my two RC 5292 motors into it. Here is a short video about the evolution to my so far "final" v5.3 Mod: Short recap about the progress: replacing the two PF motors with the RCs, and going for an SBrick increasing the wheel base and changing to 3:1 gearing, then getting to know about the fuse inside the battery box, adding suspension, moving the battery up increasing the wheelbase again to get two battery boxes inside and double the SBricks, and change to 1,667:1 gearing Putting the RCs horizontal with a 2.5:1 gearing Currently working on: Getting a GoPro attached Getting it a bit water/splash proof to be able to go through some puddles (so far cling foil wrapping battery cases) ToDo: Get some filminig done of the v5.3 with the 2.5:1 gearing Getting the PS3 controller working on the Nexus 5 together with the SBrick Future ideas Improving suspension, weight is currently heavy on the rear Getting a winch into it on the rear or front Automatic two gear box to get faster on plain surface and getting more torque when going through terrain, looking at sariels automatic two gear box so far, but it probadly wont fit p.s. These are my first attempts at shooting videos as well, so bear with me ;-) . Most of them are handheld from my Google Pixel while driving with my other hand on my old Nexus 5
  7. Hi, another Mini-MOC for you: here comes the Mini-Skidder This little thing is very powerful as it uses 2 L-Motors for drive and a third L-Motor for steering. Watch the video: On my brick safe page you can find the pics in higher resolution and of course an LDD-File: https://bricksafe.com/files/Leonard_Goldstein/woody_and_the_woodpicker/Woody-Woodpicker_V02.lxf Let me know what you think Regards Leonard Goldstein
  8. REVIEW - 42094 - TRACKED LOADER INTRODUCTION Looking at the entire range of 1H 2019 models, this model seems to be the one packing the most functions. Your milage may vary, but yellow "construction-ish" vehicles are always welcome to me. And this one looks particularly unusual and interesting. Let's find out what it is all about. This review might be less detailed than usual, but time was limited. Sorry about that. I do hope you enjoy it anyway! PICTURES Pictures can be clicked to view hi-res versions. More pictures can be found in my Flickr album. DISCLAIMER This set has been provided by the CEE Team of TLG. It's not my goal to promote this set. It's my goal to give you an honest opinion about it. Therefore, the opinion in this review is my own and is in no way linked to TLG. SET INFORMATION Number: 42094 Title: Tracked Loader Theme: Technic Released: 2019 Part Count: 827 Box Weight: 1095 gram Box Dimensions: 38,0 cm x 26,0 cm x 7,0 cm Set Price (RRP): € 59,99 Price per Part: € 0,073 Links: Brickset, Bricklink THE BOX CONTENTS OF THE BOX The box contains: 1x Booklet 1x Sticker sheet 8x Unnumbered bags BOOKLET STICKER SHEET BAGS HIGHLIGHTED PARTS PANELS These panels are new in dark bluish grey. The also appear in the Getaway Truck. 20T DOUBLE BEVEL GEAR WITH CLUTCH This gear first appeared in the Bugatti Chiron and it's good to see it pop-up in another set. Quote from the Chiron review; it's basically the same as the regular 20T bevel gear, but it has a pin hole, instead of axle hole. And it has clutches on both sides. PART LIST The part list for the 827 parts. THE BUILD The chassis already shows some of the functionality in this set. One of the rear axles is connected to the mini linear actuator and the other is connected to the large turntable. The axles are extended to outside the bodywork. You can also see the manually operated winch. The cabin is placed on top of the big turntable and can be rotated 360 degrees. That is one mean looking grabber on the boom. The undercarriage for the treads. You can see two springs, but they are not used as conventional suspension. They are used to put pressure on the sprockets. COMPLETED MODEL After adding the treads and connecting the chassis to the undercarriage, here's the final model. Two logs are included. Brutalis does look brutal. What I like most, is the design of the cabin. And I love that it can rotate freely, without any limits. This picture shows the cabin 180 degrees rotated. At the rear you can see the lever to switch between "Rabbit" and "Turtle" winch modes. Not that there is much difference between the two modes, but I like this added detail. After all, that's what Technic is all about. The bottom view of the undercarriage and chassis. Here you can see the front of the cabin, which looks stunning. As I said before, the vehicle doen't have suspension. It simply looks that way because of the springs. The rear view showing the winch, and the locking mechanism at the bottom right. The winch is operated by the 12T bevel gear on the right. B-MODEL The B-model looks promising. Could have been the main model. SUMMARY This medium sized set perfectly shows what the Technic theme is all about. It combines the looks with a handful of nice features. It does not have interesting new parts, but the features and aesthetics make up for this. This set definitely gets my nod of approval PROS Great aesthetics Rotating cabin via 12T gear (360 degrees) Raising and lowering boom via 12T gear Manually operated grabber Operating the winch via 12T gear Switching between two winch modes CONS Nothing really, maybe lack of actual suspension SCORE How do I rate this set? 8 DESIGN I love the cabin and overall aesthetics. 8 BUILDING EXPERIENCE Enough functions to provide a fun building experience. 8 FEATURES Packs enough features to make it interesting. 7 PLAYABILITY The treads limit playability on smooth surfaces. 7 PARTS Not too many interesting parts. 8 VALUE FOR MONEY Genuine Technic set for a reasonable price 7,7 GENUINE TECHNIC SET FINAL WORDS Thanks you for reading this review. All pictures can be found here.
  9. Recently, there was a contest on Lego Ideas to come up with a futuristic construction machine. I came up with this, a truck mounted knuckle boom crane with some interesting party tricks. I apologize in advance for the wall of text, as I would like to actually explain some of the details behind the design, because I did not have enough room on the actual entry page to do so. First off, why a truck? why not make some kind of dedicated carrier? My reasoning is that having commonality with standard haulage trucks would be beneficial to operating costs, and then there is the fact that in some countries mobile cranes are not allowed on the highway, so this gets around that as well. Also, I had wanted to build a truck like this for some time before the contest was announced, so that's a personal reason. Originally, I had wanted to use the cab of 42079, but the contest dictated otherwise, so I made my own cab and chassis. The crane I based this off of would be the gigantic Cormach 575000A X, as seen here: However, I do not like the way the crane looks, mounted at the back of the truck, so my version has the crane reversed, so the crossed outriggers and crane base are behind the cab. I also added an additional axle, bringing the total number of axles to seven, to reduce axle loads. As for the truck itself,ETS stands for Electric Truck System, the line this truck would be sold under. I chose a long nose design in order to provide space for a hybrid range extender, and an extensive cooling system for the electric motors. There is also an equipment rack behind the cab, in order to hold various crane parts, as well as more cooling systems for the motor controllers, and a bleed off module like a locomotive, for when the truck is under regenerative braking. As I mentioned, the truck is electric, and has all wheels driven. Unlike a standard truck, their are much lower transmission losses, and each additional axle powered only adds more horsepower and torque. Normally, the truck only has two axles driven, but any number can be driven as needed, for difficult terrain or starting a heavy load. To improve safety, the truck has an extensive network of cameras positioned at all angles, instead of mirrors. This eliminates blind spots, as the truck would have massive ones ordinarily. Another feature of the cab is the fact that the steering wheel and other controls can be swapped left to right as need be, for when the truck travels to a country that drives on the wrong side of the road. Another innovative cab feature is the VR crane cab, a fully outfitted driving station in the sleeper cab of the truck. This allows the crane to be remotely controlled from withing the cab, useful for inclement weather. This system already exists, Hiab has a version of it, but I take it much farther. The primary crane cameras are at the end of a boom, in much the same location as a regular cab would be. This gives workers on the ground something to look at while interacting with the crane. With full outriggers and full extension, the crane reaches high. Unfortunately, the pneumatic functions of this model do not work as well as I'd like, particularly the outriggers. As a futuristic function, the crane is actually dismountable, and can drive around on its own set of retractable tracks. The tracks are also mounted on a platform that can be raised and lowered, which allows ground clearance to be changed. This configuration allows the crane to be much lower, and far more compact, allowing the crane to fit in spaces the truck could not, such as indoors. Since the crane is also electric, it can operate inside buildings without exhaust problems. For additional range, the crane can either plug in to an appropriate wall socket, or receive power from the truck via a cable. I have seen a number of tracked knuckle boom cranes, but they all require their own trailer. This configuration would allow for far greater speed and versatility. Without the crane, the truck could also be used as a flatbed, to move items around. The crane has an additional normal remote control, like most knuckle boom cranes. Also a part of the interface is the warning beacon on top of the superstructure. It is a series of red, yellow, and green lights. Most cranes have a setup like this, red means overload, yellow means approaching max capacity, and green means normal. I also added a warning light on each side. These would be activated when the crane is under VR control, to indicate that the crane may move suddenly. Another idea that is hard to get across in Lego is the fact that the crane is equipped with sensors, that would prevent the crane from hitting walls and especially power lines. I wanted to add a fly jib, but due to the outriggers, that was not an option. With a fly jib, this machine would be able to do the work of a truck crane, a crawler crane, a tower crane, and a heavy tractor, all in one unit. The truck chassis itself can actually split in two, allowing the truck to operate as a heavy tractor. Stored at the back of the equipment rack is a retractable fifth wheel, which can be extended when the crane is dismounted. Getting a steering system that could be disconnected was hard, and unfortunately struggles with the full crane on the truck. And here we have the Volvo ETS 770 on its own, without the crane. As a summary of the functions, this model has: Manual: Steering Track unit fold/unfold Slewing Track Slewing Chassis disconnect Two boom extensions Winch Pneumatic: Crane elevation 1 Crane elevation 2 Folding outriggers Extending outriggers Lowering outrigger feet Raising crane body Locking to truck These are the five entry pictures, I plan on taking more later , showing off more details of the crane and truck. I hope you guys like it.
  10. Technic BOOM

    MOC RC Ripsaw (Tank)

    Engines: 2 L engines Gear: 1.67:1 Suspension: 8x hard small (yellow)
  11. Power functions: 3x M motor 3x L motor
  12. Please suport my project on Lego Ideas. https://ideas.lego.com/projects/bc17ae38-b3e7-4cb2-b804-401e0bcc7aef Power functions: 3x L-motor 1x IR Receiver 1x IR Remote Control 1x AAA Battery Box 1x Control Switch 1x Extension Wire Description All openable doors. Model have fake motor V6. Color: Black and Yellow Number of Pieces: 800-100 Thank you very much for your support! Military version: Hägglunds BV 206s
  13. Czechoslovakia WW2 tank. Power functions: 1x XL motor 2x L motor 3x M motor Fuction and chassis Lego. Desing Cobi small army WW2.
  14. Czechoslovakia WW2 tank. Power functions: 1x XL motor 2x L motor 3x M motor Fuction and chassis Lego. Desing Cobi small army WW2.
  15. Hello everyone, I would like to show you my first MOC, except things I build as a "grom". It´s a snow groomer inspired by the PistenBully and winch is more like Prinoth. 9 by Jan Zavesky, on Flickr Features: 1 piston for moving the tiller 2 small pistons for extensions of the tiller 5 pistons for moving the front blade and another two for the side wings manual pump with one air tank and 6 valves bogie suspension for the white wheels and tiller suspension rear axle is connected via transmission to a fake V6 engine. transmission only function is connect or disconnect the rotation of the tiller as the think is moving, it´s controlled by the white lever in the cab manual rotation of the winch and manual winch with gear worm 1 by Jan Zavesky, on Flickr Dimensions: lenght: 50cm width: 35cm height: 24cm weight: about 2130g 10 by Jan Zavesky, on Flickr More images
  16. Hi, my name is Victor and I've loved Lego since I was a little kid but haven't built something in like 17-18 years. This all changed when my girlfriend gifted me with the BMW R1200 (I also love riding bikes). After initially just wanting to get another Lego bike or two to put up for display, I realized that I wanted to build my own creations again. Bought 42065, and thought how to improve it, but so many things have changed that the learning process took a while. My goal was to create a tracked vehicle that would be somewhat fast, but also easy to control / maneuverable. I decided that 2 speeds would be enough. Also, to be able to switch gears by remote control, to have suspension and maybe a nice but ultimately not too heavy body. I now think of it as a kind of vehicle that would race in a fantasy version of the Dakar Rally (if tracked competitors would be a thing). Features: - 1x BuWizz - 2x L Motor for drive (skid steer) - 1x M Motor for gear change - 2x 2 Speed transmission (1:1 and 3:1 ratios, neutral) - Soft suspension with good travel - Detailed-ish body, with easy removal Photos taken by a friend. DSC_3813-edit by Victor T, on Flickr DSC_3815-edit by Victor T, on Flickr DSC_3818-edit by Victor T, on Flickr DSC_3820-edit by Victor T, on Flickr DSC_3822-edit by Victor T, on Flickr DSC_3823-edit by Victor T, on Flickr The gear changing mechanism: from and M Motor, via 2 clutch gears, move 2 changeover catches. DSC_3826-edit by Victor T, on Flickr Gearboxes: DSC_3829-edit by Victor T, on Flickr Here's a video of me trying to negotiate a simple obstacle course (4 times :) ) - climb over some books, change into 2nd gear, accelerate and show off :P I could have refined the design more, but I want to move on to other projects, the wheeled kind :) I will likely build a "trial" version of this in the future. Praise, but especially criticism is welcomed :) Nice to meet you, Victor
  17. Even before the release of the Lego 42069 set, I’ve always wanted to make a 4x4 vehicle with triangular tracks. Seeing that the season is perfect for vehicles like these (the snow!), I decided it’s finally time I make my dream come true. The build started out with, obviously, making the 4 triangular tracks. Drive is transferred to the tracks via a large sprocket, and two small sprockets form the triangular shape. There are also two small wheels at the bottom that guide the tracks and help reduce slack. The track modules are attached to their axles with a small turntable, which allows it tilt back and forth and also keeps it well attached to prevent it from falling off. The axles are attached to the chassis with 4 suspension arms, 3 links, and 2 6.5L shock absorbers. The entire vehicle is driven by 2 L motors, with 1 per axle. A servo motor at the center of the chassis controls steering, with the front output controlling the front axle and the rear output controlling the rear. The drive/steering setup is similar to that of the 9398. Since there are no mechanical connections between the two driven axles, I added an extra M motor just to drive the V6 piston engine. The fake engine is chain-driven and can be seen by opening the hood, which can be locked in place. The model also includes Lego LEDs that light up the front lights. However, due to the bright sunlight when I filmed it, I could not demonstrate this feature. As for the performance, the model could drive on snow pretty well. The use of tracks over wheels was advantageous in that it has better weight distribution, which reduces stress on the motor. However, since tracks are a lot less grippier than wheels, even a small obstacle means that the tracks will slip, so I had to omit differentials in the drivetrain. The lack of differentials meant that one of the tracks on each axle will be stressed when making a turn, which is why one of the tracks can be seen driving slightly tilted when making a turn. Using rubber inserts, however, may have helped with the tracks slipping, but unfortunately I do not have any at this point. The tracks also feature stoppers on the back that limit their maximum tilt, as the tracks would often tilt too far in its initial tests, especially when overcoming an obstacle.The entire model is powered by a rechargeable battery, which, despite delivering less voltage than the AA battery box, gave the model plenty of power. Overall, I am very satisfied with the result. The model was a success not only in performance but also in aesthetics. In fact, I think this is my best-looking pickup truck model so far. Video: Photos:
  18. The only thing worse than a hungry meat-eating dinosaur on your tail is one with a tank! (Well, getting caught is pretty bad, too.) Battery: 7.4V PF LiPo rechargeable in place (was AA box) RC receiver/controller : SBrick/custom joystick on Android phone (was PF with bang-bang handset) Motors: L front and rear (were Ms) Drive train: Direct drive (no change) Steering: Differential power to the tracks (no change) Tracks: Lugs every link for traction (new) Overall dimensions: 206x170x146 mm (LxWxH) Mass: 546 g (down from 599 g) Installed power: 4.3 W (was 1.5) Power to mass ratio: 7.9 W/kg (was 2.5) Stalled torque: 0.52 N m (was 0.18) The biggest and most important advance over 42065 was in outdoor play value -- by far my best yet in any MOC or MOD. The biggest contributors there were the L motors and the red rubber track lugs. Dinotrack performance was generally traction-limited without the lugs. Photos and write-up at http://www.moc-pages.com/moc.php/441699
  19. This is my first "published" c-model. It took me the last 2-3 weeks in total to build it. It was one of the reasons, why i paused on my speed-racer :) When my daughter (5) baught this model (42065 Tracked Racer), she wanted a lego rc car wich she could play with. But since the steering with the 2 tracks is pretty complicated and too hard for her, i decided to build a model with a regular steering from the set. I was thinking about building a halftracked vehicle at first, but then i decided to build a snowmobile. It was a really hard way, because of really limited amount of parts in this set (369) and the fact, that there is not a single gear included in the set . All in all i think i totally rebuildet the model 3-4 times until the current result. I still dont like it 100%, but its ok to play with for my daughter, and i need time for my own project again :) What funtions does it have?: - PF drive + steering - pendular front suspension - working handlebar (can be used as HOG) - virtual "differential" aka linear clutch at the rear axle for better steering. Motor drives left side front of the tracks, right side is connected with the clutch at the rear axle. - seat acts as PF-on-switch. A driver sitting down on it will move the battery-box to "on"-position :) -> you can see it in the video Here you can see the linear clutch in the middle of the "rear axle" footrests size comparision leftover parts Technically the chassis idea is based on something like this.
  20. Aventador2004

    [WIP] Tracked Digger

    Here is my latest creation!! The tracked crane! I recently bought a bucket and 2 l motors so I thought I would build a crane, logically . The crane goes up and down with a LA, and the bucket moves on a LA both connected to separate m motors. The drive is through direct driven l motors on tracks. This is in no way final, and I would like to make instructions for the final model. What do you think? better pics soon.
  21. Hi, I am building a tracked all terrain vehicle, wondering if anyone knows about suspension for tracked vehicles. I also need to know how to upload pictures.
  22. Hi, I am working on a new project which is a tracked vehicle, I have started on it and remodeled it 3 times already. I am new to tracked suspension and wanted to incorporate hard shocks. The motor I will be using is the Lego XL motor.
  23. Hi, I have recently started a tracked vehicle project. I have made a few other topics about it, building it etc. I was wondering if anyone has made a vehicle then turned around and made it articulated. (Especially tracked) I also need tips on how to do this. Thanks
  24. [MOC] [WIP] Mercedes-Benz dump truck. Hello, I decided to go make a moc. I bought the arocs last november and i was like:"hmm, i have enough stuff to build a good moc." so i started to make a plan. A simple painting in word 2013 and i made some challenges and requirements for myself. Here is a list: RC functions: Driving Steering Outtrigger Sideway Tipping(which side is not decided yet.) Manual functions: Openable doors Switch rc/handdrive HoG steering Other specs: Suspended, driven tracks Suspended steering frontwheels Outrigger will have 2 stages, driven by one motor with the use of a differential. There will only be one outrigger on one side, depends on what side the truck is gonna dump. 19 studs wide (made the tracks and they turned out te be 19 studs wide) PF stuff 1x XL motor for driving 2x L- motor for outtriggers and tipping 1x M- motor for steering Will probably use the cabin of the arocs (42043) 2 receivers batterybox Challenges: Driven tracks(first time i work with tracks) 2 staged outriggers will be difficult. Unusual way to dump. Find a way to switch from handdrive/steer to RC. Advanced gearbox to make all this possible here is a rough sketch i made in word. i know this is gonna be a weird non-existing truck. but my goal is to make a really advanced truck and to learn things from it. i'm sure i'll do. 1. i only play with lego on sundays so don't expect to see updates midweek. 2. i also have no idea how it's gonna go and i don't know if I'm able to do all this. this is my first moc and this not a technical easy one. 3. another thing i wanna tell you is that i don't have receivers now. I had 2 from 8043 but the are both broken. 4. i ordered 2 by the customerservice broken bricks, but they were not available so i don't know when the moc will be finished. i also made no deadline for myself. the tracks now about the tracks, it was pretty difficult for me to build proper tracks, since i have never build one. the first problem i ran into was the good length. i built a track, all pretty well, but when i put on the actual trackpieces, it turned out that they were a half track too long. it just didn't fit. i also could not remove a piece because otherwise it would be too short. i experimented a bit with it but i wasn't able to get it right. Then i got the idea to look in the building instructions. so i did and i had a nice fitting track. i have to say, it is still a little bit loose, but that's probably supossed to. but then another problem came along. on a 5*7 bracket i put a small turntable to have a sort of suspension. but when i made my fitting track and put it on, the thing was waay to wide. (note: the photo's are taken with my smartphone. I don't have a normal camera so quality is pretty bad. sorry for that.) that's the reason i had to make a whole gear system in the tracks. you can see them on the picture above. the gears are coming out of the turntable right in the middle of the track. it took quite a while to lead the axle to the actual wheel. but that's done and i am satisfied wih the result. the black line shows how the axles and gears are going here are some more pictures. on the picture above you see how you can detach a track. it's pretty simple. i put 4 of these pieces(I don't know how to describe them) on the turntable with 3l pins. i now have 4 cross hole to attach to another piece. i just put 2 4l axles with stop in it as you can see. the axles go through 5*7 bracket and i put a half yellow bush on the underside. as written earlier the total width is 19 studs. the tracks are 5studs and i have 2 of them. i have a 5*7 bracket. with two beams and the 2 small turntables which are 1 stud. the tracks are each 37 pieces long which brings it in total to 74 pieces. I was happy to find out that it was as wide as the arocs because i'm going to use the cabin. Here is a picture. this is the result. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- the outrigger I just finished the outtrigger. I wanted an outrigger with 2 stages like 42009 which could be expanded with one motor. i used a differential for that this is the first stage. you see that i used 2 bevel gears to drive 2 gearracks to expand outwards. then i used a u-bracket to transfer it down. the outtrigger is laying upside down, so the axle is going down, not up. this is the whole thing(not finished) you see that i used a small LA to do the downward movement. this means it can go down 4 studs. the LA is sticking out but i don't care about that since 42043 has that as well and that's a official lego set. here is the finished one: as you can see, it can expand 7 studs sideways and 4 studs downwards. if it is retracted, the thing is 22 studs wide which is a little bit wider than the tracks. it is 8 studs hight and 9 studs wide. 22*8*9. i used 26 gears in total. it took me a day to build and i'm pretty ok with it. below is a picture from the outrigger as seen from the bottom. you see the differential.you turn the differential with the big black bevel gear, the right side goes to the ----------------------------------------------------------------------- front wheels today i moved on the front suspension. i disassembled the 42043 B-model and i only left the cabin+grille. when nothing was left but the pieces, i began building. i had a great idea(i thought) my idea was this: i attached those black pieces and a ball joint. then i use some liftarms and attached it to a frame. it worked pretty well and i was happy, yeah this is going so well!! look under here, full independent, it can steer, no problem. yeah!!! then i saw something horrible, it was a 'little bit' too wide. i experimented a bit but i found out, that those wheelhubs combined with liftarms are too wide. look at the second picture: luckily, i remebered a topic about suspended axles, so i looked throug my history and fount this topic. i looked for a while and build this axle: (finally good quality ) i used the road wheels, not the balloon ones. the building instructions on LDD are 'great'. #not. but i managed to build it. i ran into a few problems. 1. i don't have a powerjoint. so i had to use a normal 5x7 bracket for the differential. a 2. another problem. if i don't use the powerjoint, how am i gonna attach the axle to the chassis. i used a sort of life axle idea. or is it a real life axle? 3. to drive the differential,i had to use a half thick 20z bevel gear. i first did that but it was not sturdy enough. the gear slipped out several times. after messing with it for a while, i came up with the idea to just turn the axle around and use a double bevel gear. 4. the steering didn't work at first because, it could not move forward to the axle, if you know what i mean. if you steer a wheel, the gear racks moves a bit forward, but the bracket was in it's way so that didn't work. i put the gear rack on the upside and it had space to move, but the gears slipped. i placed just two blue 5x3 L-beams to fix that. all in all, i changed quite a bit of the axle and only 50% of so is from the original building instructions. check it out below. it can steer very well and has a bit ackerman geometry. it works fine though. i attached the spring to the liftarm so i don't have to make a whole structure to attach it to the truck. it has a travel of 2 studs. that is not much but it works, and i'm fine. it was not my goal to have as much travel as possible. i'm pretty satisfied with it, it works fine. the next step is attaching the arocs grille and cabin. i think, i'm gonna use the 6l fake motor as well. the axle is 19 studs wide, just like the tracks and the cabin summary: i am building a non existing truck with driven and suspende. tracks and steered, driven, suspended frontwheels. it will have a sideway dumping and an outtrigger to that side with two stages like 42009. it will be rc and have a switch so you can drive manually. i'm gonna use the arocs cabin because it's a wonderful piece of lego. this is my fist moc so i don't know how it will turn out. for details and building process, check out the whole first post. if have now build: - tracks - front wheels - cabin and grille - outrigger i have to build: - nice frame to put on the cabin and grille. - gearbox for all functions and motors and a switch : manual-->rc. - a mechanism to dump sideways. - a bed, you know, where you put in the stuff to dump.
  25. As i had 42038, it's time for my first tracked MOC. First motor setup. I have only pair of M motors, other are single.