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Found 44 results

  1. Hello, My latest model is the Panzerkampfwagen. I Ausführung B, a German Light Tank developed during the inter-war period. Building Instructions are available to purchase over on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-119345/Tarix819/pzkpfw-i-ausf-b-light-tank/#details HISTORY The Pz. I was the first widely successful tank to enter service in the German Army. The Ausf. B model, the successor to the Pz.Kpfw. I Ausf. A, featured a number of upgrades including a new water-cooled Maybach six-cylinder engine, which required the hull to be lengthened to accommodate it. The crew count remained two men (Driver and Commander). MODEL FEATURES -A custom brick-build sprocket design inspired by the work of @Milan -Weight: 5.2kg. -Scale: 1:8. -Full drive, each track driven by two PF-XL motors. -Twin PF battery boxes for powerplant, the model is controlled using two SBricks. -Working and historically accurate suspension - the frontmost roadwheels are suspended on pivoting arms which connect to a coil-spring, whilst the remaining road wheels are paired together on four bogies suspended using leaf-springs. -Working headlamp. -Functional track tensioners. -360-degree rotating turret. -Elevation and depression of the main guns inside the turret. -Accurate detailing, including sledgehammer, storage box, exhaust, aerial and vision slits. BUILDING THE MODEL I chose to build the Pz. I because it was a relatively simple, straightforward design; there was no heavy firing mechanism or bridge deployment mechanism, basically just a chassis with a rotating turret and moving guns. The real aim behind it was to test out the new sprocket designs, and to see how they would run on a tracked vehicle weighing above 5kg. In the end I was very pleased with the performance of the sprockets and I will likely be using them on future models. As I will explain, they are an enormous upgrade to the rubber tyre system that I was previously using to engage the tracks. Otherwise, the tank is sturdy and looks good, although the suspension is somewhat fragile. I am very happy with its overall performance and I hope that fans of early German inter-war and WWII tanks will be pleased to see it. SPROCKETS As you may already know, my specialty here is large-scale tanks and tracked vehicles, weighing in the range of 4kg upwards. Building at such a large scale allows me to incorporate a great amount of detail and functionality into my models, however this requires me to use custom Lego tracks built from axles and lift-arms instead of the conventional Lego-produced caterpillar tracks, which are limited by their width and sprocket size. I have been using these types of tracks for about four years now, however since there was no specific sprocket design available for them, and certainly not at the required sizes (10st/12st/14st diameter), I have instead used Lego wheels with rubber tyres as the driving wheels, since, at least for lighter models, the friction between the tyre and the track is enough engage the track and drive the model along. In April 2020, I built my A34 Comet tank model, the weight of which was roughly 5.9kg. It was driven by two PF-XL motors connected to tyres at the rear, but had some trouble steering and reversing as the tyres were slipping on the tracks. The solution to this problem was provide front and rear drive, increasing the number of PF-XL motors to four. I first used this setup in my Vickers Mk. E model in August 2020, and the slipping problem was fixed; it worked very well on that particular model. But since then I have built a variety of other vehicles of different weights and sizes, using the same setup, and a number of problems have come up: 1) Weight Distribution -My most recent model, the AMR 33, was particularly rear-heavy as motors had to be installed at the back (in addition to the front), where the turret was. 2) Historical Accuracy -There was excessive bulk on my Matilda I model caused by the front wheels requiring a drivetrain connected to motors. The front lower glacis on that model is too far forward to make room for the drivetrain. This was not necessary on the real-life vehicle, which simply had idlers. It was a similar case for the rear idlers on my Vickers Light Commercial tanks models. 3) Track Tensioning -Having track tensioners means the motor, direct drive connection and the wheel itself all need to be movable, which adds unnecessary complication. 4) Heavy Vehicles -Even with both wheels driven, heavier vehicles will still suffer slipping between the wheels and the track, especially on rougher terrain. My Bridge Carrier model weighed between 7.7kg and 9.4kg, was powered by six PF-XL motors and suffered from this a lot. Moreover it could not actually drive onto its own bridge because the wheels kept slipping and the tracks would come off. 5) Steering -Tracks of course would not always be locked in properly by the rubber tyres. This wasn’t a problem on most of my models, but I remember my T.13B3 and Vickers M1937 occasionally threw their tracks when making tight corners. The solution to these problems was to develop a sprocket that would engage with the custom track properly. And here they are: https://imgur.com/a/q71kRuh (I will try to make some building instructions for these) I had not yet come up with a design due to the complicated geometry of custom-built wheels, and the difficulty in building with Lego elements accurate to the millimeter, however with some inspiration from Milan’s excellent Brick-built wheels book, I have designed two sizes (12st and 10st diameter) of custom sprocket that work smoothly with the custom track. Everything is built from 100% genuine Lego elements, no illegal connections or 3D printing is required. The first that I built was the 12st diameter sprocket. This uses 1x2 plate hinges arranged in a decagon, which is held taught by rubber connectors fitted in the center. Each tooth is built using two Bionicle pieces. In between each tooth there is a rubber connector which helps keep the track round as it traverses the sprocket. The principles of the 10st diameter sprocket are the same, however the hinges are arranged in a nonagon, and each tooth is made using one Bionicle piece and a 1x2 flat lift-arm. There are only four teeth on this sprocket, meaning there is a gap of two on one side. This has no effect on the sprockets performance so long as a gap is left every link on the track rather than every two links. It is this size of sprocket that my model of the Pz.Kpfw. I Ausf. B uses. These sprockets certainly have great potential and I am confident it is possible to construct them from at least 8st diameter and upwards. With the correct arrangement/modification they should also be able to fit any width of track of at least 5st, and any arrangement of track teeth (Either one row in the center or a row on each side). This will be extremely important for my future models as historically tanks have had sprockets of a great variety of different sizes. IMAGE GALLERY More images can be found over on Imgur, I shall put some up on my Flickr shortly, too. https://imgur.com/gallery/jyhtIhN
  2. So I've been contemplating what to build for the contest as the volume restrictions is something that should fall exactly in my area of expertise, but with RC allowed, it got a bit complex. To fully handle a crane or excavator you need 5 or 6 motors, so either two hubs or something like buwizz 3.0 which supports 6 motors, and I'm not really sure if I'll be able to fit all that perfectly within the specified volume while not making it a messy build. So I decided to stick to stuff that I can power with a single hub, and I love the ease of use of physical remote from CADA so I ended up deciding to go with a tracked vehicle + two mechanical functions, so after looking at multiple options I decided to pick a tracked skid-steer loader - a bobcat: I like this one because it has an interesting geometry of the arms, which I expect to be there in order to prevent the bucket getting closer to the cab while the arms are getting raised. I yet have to test this theory. Here's a concept / design so far: I tested the geometry of the arm against keeping the bucket at same angle while the arm is changing its angle, assuming the lever holding liftarm over the arm has fixed angle, and it works more or less. I don't have a bucket yet, and I've got to figure out the driving connection for it that has a significant gear reduction as well as it should have some safety like clutch gear, but I'm not sure if it is a good idea considering weight of the bucket. I'm not 100% sure that I'll be able to go with the design of the arm that is supported by that liftarm to move forward/keep horizontal position of the bucket, especially because of the requirements for the bucket tilt lever connection to the motor. Additional note here is that the tracks are shaped in a way that rear gears one exactly above each other because I couldn't achieve optimal track tension in other configurations and also I would have to make more space for the attachment of linear actuators behind the tracks and it would complicate the base structure. Finally I might end up with arms hitting the cab, so maybe I'll have to move them by 1 stud to the sides, which would made the proportions weird, but I don't think I'll be able to shrink the cab without showing a mess of cables.
  3. Please suport my project on Lego Ideas. https://ideas.lego.com/projects/bc17ae38-b3e7-4cb2-b804-401e0bcc7aef Power functions: 3x L-motor 1x IR Receiver 1x IR Remote Control 1x AAA Battery Box 1x Control Switch 1x Extension Wire Description All openable doors. Model have fake motor V6. Color: Black and Yellow Number of Pieces: 800-100 Thank you very much for your support! Military version: Hägglunds BV 206s
  4. Hi, I have designed a series of tracked vehicle using either 4 or 6 L or XL motors with two buwizz. And the problem i keep having is that after about 30 seconds to a minute the power to one side is shut off. If i then leave it to rest for a minute it will go again, but it will cut out sooner after that. The components to not heat up noticeably. I have experimented with different sizes and weights, and the problem is more noticable at higher speeds and weight. but weirdly enough it runs fine before the "limit" kicks in. I have cross connected the motors so it is not one buwizz that is at fault. Is there some sort of power limit i am reaching? Thanks in advance.
  5. Welcome and thank you for checking out my MOC, i really appreciate it. As the name implies, this MOC features a "subtractor mechanism". If you don't know what it is, a quick search online will answser your questions, show various versions and what it is used for, but in a nutshell, it allows tracked vehicles to take on curves very smoothly and be remote controlled the same way as any regular RC car: one lever to go forward/backward, and another to steer (check the picture below for reference). I decided to do this MOC because there are plenty of subtractor mechanism examples and variations on the internet, but not many MOCs actually taking advantage of it, so here's my contribution. The set 42095 was the main source for parts, so you're up to a good start if you have it, only needing additional liftarms, gears and some miscelanious pieces. Since this MOC is intended to be a racer, i wanted it to be as fast as possible, but the subtractor mechanism requires so many gears to function, that it generates a lot of friction; the MOC itself is somewhat heavy for its compact size (760g) despite several design optimizations. Keep in mind it's only one l-motor pushing the vehicle as the second l-motor is dedicated to steering (unlike conventional tracked vehicles in which both motors push the vehicle). This means i had to reduce the motor to wheels gear ratio (which is 1,667:1) to give it some extra torque. I don't consider it to be slow (check the video below to get a better idea), but would love to see someone powering it with a buwizz on ludicrous mode as i don't have one. This MOC was interesting to develop. As always, for anyone interested, parts list and building instructions are available at MocsMarket As you might guess, it took several tries, optimizations and redesigns before achieving the final design and functionality you see here. I don't usually share any of my preliminar version MOCs as their quality is subpar, but i decided to share the first complete beta version i built while developing this MOC. I forgot to take real pictures, but here are some studio renders of it. Enjoy!
  6. Hello, I would like to show you my project it has been a year and a half in the making and is functioning pretty well. - Christie suspension, spring loaded track tensioner - 6 XL motors, easily reconfigurable to 4 or 2 - 1:5 Gear ratio, 1070 RPM - 8 KM/h @ 12V / 730 RPM- 5.5 KM/h @ 9V - Gear ratio reconfigurable from 1:5 to 1:2.333 - 3 buwizz needed for ludicrous speed @ 1:5 - Two versions, 42065 inspired racing tank and "drone" shovel loader - Stud.io files are available in the bricksafe link Drives very good, the track tensioner keeps the tracks from throwing themselves off in corners most of the time. I have been trying to intgerate a gearbox but it gets too bulky or can not withstand the torque required. Any feedback or advice is appreciated!
  7. Here is a small vehicle that I built. It is very small and easy to build. You should be able to replicate it from the pictures;) It is fast, stable, and funny looking;) Now I will break it apart so you can see how it’s built:)the track base.and at last the body broken apart. it is powered by BuWizz 2.0 and is driven by two m motors, one per track. Any questions or comments, please let me know;)
  8. This is a type of steering for a tracked vehicle that uses so-called subtractor which means input from motor used for steering is subtracted from the main drive input
  9. This is yet another C-Model for the LEGO Set 42095 "Remote-Controlled Stunt Racer". This time around, i challenged myself to use the available parts to build a war tank as closest as possible to the real, generic vehicle. I used the smaller sprocket wheels on purpose to make this model run slower to better resemble the real thing, as the original set doesn't have gears to adjust the velocity. It is powered by the 2 L-Motors, it can go forward and backwards, turn left and right as needed. The front is clear to easily overcome obstacles; on the rear there is a space dedicated for cable management. I tried to keep this build as compact as i could. It may not seem like it, but this was quite the challenge, it went through various revisions and parts optimization until i became happy enough with the result. It can be further improved and modded with additional parts, but i wanted to keep it as a C-Model, so i was restricted by the set's available components. Building instructions available at Belle-Ve Bricks
  10. This is basically a C-Model for the RC Stunt Racer, but instead of using the 2 original L-motors, i used 2 fake, chinese, buggy motors, which are more than enough for this build (they are also pretty cheap for the performance they pack and you can easily get them). Aside from the motors, all the parts used were taken from the set 42095 "Remote-Controlled Stunt Racer". The design is very compact and sturdy, cables are very well protected inside, the battery button is easily accessible on the back, the IR sensor is well disguised and positioned. It was made with the objective of being very fast and able to easily drift and spin, which i find to be more fun than doing wheelies, it's also very cool to do races with it and will require mastery to control due to its high speed. Building Instructions available on Belle-Ve Bricks
  11. Hello everyone. I just want to share a MOC i've made recently, it is a c-model of the set 42095 "Remote-Controlled Stunt Racer", so it was designed using only available parts on that set. It is quite a departure from the original, no one would think it was possible to build such a racer with this set. It uses a single l-motor to power one of the rear wheels and the other l-motor is dedicated to steering, which returns to center automatically by using a rubber band. The only limitation are the "tracked wheels", since there is no rubber, they don't have traction on smooth surfaces, this vehicle can only run on rough terrain like dirt, sand and snow, so it is basically an off-road racer. I tried to add as many details as possible given the available parts. The battery pack button is easily accessible, the IR receiver is on top to get the cleanest signal possible and the cabin is used for cable management, giving it a cleaner look. Building instructions are available at Belle-Ve Bricks For anyone who decide to build it, the most obvious modifications you can do is to replace the "tracked wheels" by normal off-road tires; or to apply rubber studs. Everyone feel free to share your opinions.
  12. Just an idea I've had for one of my projects but eventually decided not to use it because it looked wrong for this particular project. It works fine, though, so I'm sharing. It's pretty simple and may be obvious, but perhaps it will help someone.
  13. A simple tracked loader model with Control+. Features subtractor drive, arm elevation, bucket tilt, and lighting by Brickstuff. Functions/features: Subtractor drive Arm elevation Bucket tilt Lights (Brickstuff LEDs) Photos: Video:
  14. I'm doing something simple this time after building two complex MOCs. Given that I'm busy with college right now, this should be a pretty manageable project for me. It'll be a simple tracked loader model with subtractor drive. I've already got the subtractor mechanism built, and it'll likely be the rear sprockets that'll be driven. The propulsion motor is a C+ XL and the steering motor is a C+ L. The C+ hub will likely sit in the front of the chassis towards the bottom (assuming it's the rear sprockets that'll be driven) and bucket elevation/tipping will be a C+ XL and C+ L, respectively. As for the bodywork, I'm planning on making it bright light orange with the pieces from the 42099 set. If you have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photos:
  15. Hi! I built a telescopic tracked car, that can extend in two directions to overcome obstacles ? Have a look and subscribe to my channel, if you want more videos like that (building instructions available). Thanks!
  16. The crawler tractor with a realistic steering system. It is driven by a one XL-motor. 4 levers let you: - start engine; - select between 2 speeds (forward and rear); - steer. You have to pull the two central levers to turn the tractor left or right. Once being released the steering levers automatically return to their zero position. Update:
  17. It has been years after the unspeakable and the survivers used whatever machinery they found to make a new start. The last bit of civilization was rebuilt in a form of the mobile base nicknamed the FrankenBase due to the nature of it's design. Frankenbase was assembled from the following leftovers: Buckets and bogies from a pair of tracked loaders Front frame, suspension and axles from a monster truck Command bridge and helipad from a stranded ship Crane and two containers were salvaged from a dried up port The base also features three support vehicles, a quick buggy, a small bulldozer and a helicopter: To propel the massive base, all wheels and trackes are driven and suspended: The suspension allow the massive vehicle to easily crawl over rough terrain: The track bogies can also steer, giving the FrankenBase a very tight steering radious: The only way to acces the abse is by lovering the ladder in front, which also serves as the ladder to acces the walkways surrounding the entire vehicle: The crane uses a special mechanism which locks onto containers in order to move them: The command deck is protected by nets and features controls: View of the backside with the crane raised: Some trivia about the model: The entire model took me around 2 weeks to build All functions are powered by 19 motors and controlled by 6 BuWizz bricks It measures over 130 cm long, 45 cm high and 40 cm wide The weight is estimated to be around 7 kilograms This is my second largest model built, first being the Go-kart It's one of my most eccentric builds ever The different colors are intentional, representing the chaotic nature of it's envoirment Size compared to the Liebherr: See the model in action the video:
  18. MPATEV-01 -> Multi Purpose All Terrain Vehicle 01 LDD file DOWNLOAD The attachments and other photos: WIP TOPIC MPATEV-01 -> Multi Purpose All Terrain Vehicle 01 Hello there! haven't been on the forum for some time and seeing such a contest pop up was a truly delight. Of course first ideas were of the movies "Martian", "Avatar", and "Interstellar", and the idea of building a spaceship seemed exiting. Therefore, i made a sketch of a VTOL transport ship: However building a freighter or a spacestation didn't exite me so much afterall (absolutely nothing to do with my unfinished tc15 plane ) so the next obvious idea was a rover. A human-manned one of course. Seeing that the currents WIPs were using wheels, I had a quick browse through lego sets of space/sci-fi themes and quickly found the Exo-Force 8118. It had a combination of double tracks in front and a single wheel in back that got me interested, as it was unusual and cool-looking, so this sketch came to life: It was originally planned to use brick-built tracks on front but small track links with turntables for central wheels should work. Most probably double offroad motorcycle tyres on rear (better start saving up for PP wheels duh). Obviously doubly buggy motors with 1.667:1 reduction + nuclear reactor BuWizz to power this thing. Current progress:
  19. Hello! The 42069 was the first set I’ve bought for about 15 years, and despite my initial intention to play with it together with my 4-year-old son, I soon got into modding it quite heavily, and he went back to his City and 42023. :) So here’s what I’ve done to it so far. ADDED COMPONENTS List of motors and electronic components added to the model: 4x PF L motors 1x PF XL motor 2x PF M motors 2x PF Servo motors 1x PF switch 24x Brickstuff LEDs 2x BuWizz 1x sBrick some PF & Brickstuff wires DRIVE The drivetrain/axle design is mostly RacingBrick’s design with 4x PF L motors (one for each track/wheel connected directly) and a Servo for steering, with some cosmetic changes to avoid self-disassembly of the suspension on rough terrain. ORIGINAL FUNCTIONS Both side compartments now house BuWizz units, the walls separating them from the middle section have been removed, and the space itself no longer exists, taken by a single sBrick and quite a lot of wires (more about the setup later). The fire extinguishers now sit right next to the seats, ready to use. The shovel drawer remained in place and functional, now also containing the first-aid kit. Pretty much all of the truck’s functions have been motorised, similarly to RacingBrick’s version. I left the rising door mechanism unchanged, I think it’s really cool as it is. WINCH The winch mechanism has been completely ripped out and rebuilt. To provide greater momentum, I used the more powerful XL motor, which I installed right behind and below the front bumper. The first version of the winch was geared 1:1 using three consecutive 32072 knob wheels for extra durability over standard gears, but since they kept getting stuck, I replaced them with regular 16 tooth gears. I considered an alternative setup involving a worm screw, but I wanted to maintain decent speed of the winch. The whole mechanism fitted inside the original bumper design which I modified later (it looked a bit thin to me), so if you like the big motor but not the puffed up front bumper, you should still be able to employ it. Since I didn’t use a clutch gear (which would have ruined the performance), to protect the XL motor from being turned on accidentally a safety-valve was installed in the form of a PF switch, activated with a turn of the gear/knob originally used for the winch. The original tiny hook has been replaced with the 70644 metal hook for extra durability. Alternatively, I sometimes attach the 95354 anchor - it looks a bit freaky, but so does the whole model, and it’s the best solution for hooking the winch up. OTHER There are also two PF M motors: one powering the fake V8 engine, geared up 5:3, and the other one raising the roof. LIGHTING I put a lot of work into the light system of the model with the use of Brickstuff LEDs. Without the additional lights on the interchangeable roof racks the lighting comprises of 24 LEDs: two for each of the main headlights, one for each bullbar light, six blinking turn signals (including one light on each of the wing mirrors), two lights on the original roof rack below the antennae, two taillights (white LEDs under trans-red tiles), four stop lights (similar as taillights next to the reverse lights plus red LEDs under trans-clear round tiles on the trunk door) and two reverse lights. The LEDs are powered from one of the BuWizz outputs via a Brickstuff PF power source with variable outputs. This certain piece deserves a few more words, especially for the readers unfamiliar with Brickstuff. One of its three outputs is always on (thus, all LEDs except for the turn signals, stop lights and reverse lights light up the moment BuWizz connects with the controlling device) and the other two outputs depend on the PF channel activation; in this case the BuWizz output for the lights is synchronised with the steering Servo, resulting in lighting up the corresponding blinkers. Lastly, the stop and reverse lights system involves another Brickstuff gimmick: magnetic switches. The circuit is closed when a small magnet (which fits inside a Technic axle hole) approaches the switch. I put the magnet inside a 1x2 thin liftarm, connected to a Servo, controlled in sync with the track motors. When the Servo is in neutral (with the model stationary), the magnet closes the circuit powering the stop lights. In reverse it approaches another switch, closing the reverse lights circuit, and in forward position it opens both circuits, cutting out the LEDs. (I know it’s a bit much to add a heavy motor just to control some lights, but I couldn’t think of a better solution - any ideas?) An extra bit of lighting comes in the form of two interchangeable roof racks, installed roughly in the location of the original HOG steering knob. I was curious about Brickstuff High-Power LEDs, so I put two of them behind some trans-clear 24116 curved panels and on the roof. The other version of the roof rack includes four regular LEDs similar to those put on the bullbar. The lights are connected to the main grid through Brickstuff vertical connector, which eliminates the need of connecting and disconnecting the fragile wires with every change of the racks or their complete removal. Since the complex lighting system tends to consume a considerable amount of BuWizz’s battery juice, I used another vertical connector to put together an additional master switch, disguised as a red toolbox and located between the dark green jerrycans on the roof rack. BRIDGING LADDERS The last modification, or rather some additional equipment is a pair of bridging ladders, which can be folded and stored on the original roof rack. Fully extended, they’re 49 studs long each (just a bit longer than the truck itself) and, although a bit flimsy, manage to support the weight of the model while crossing gaps or climbing obstacles. There’s also a removable, extendable ladder added to the rear door. CONTROLS As for the double BuWizz-sBrick setup and controlling the model: the BuWizz unit in the right side compartment powers both right L motors, the steering Servo and the winch, and the left unit powers the left L motors, the fake V8 and the sBrick. The raising roof, the LEDs and the Servo controlling the stop and reverse lights are all powered through the sBrick. That leaves one last sBrick output free for some other uses, i.e. motorising the doors. The whole setup is controlled through BrickController2 with the use of a physical controller (a bluetooth gamepad). The app works great with virtually no lag and allows for quick profile changes; I created two profiles: one for regular driving and one for tank driving. Obviously, all the extra elements made the model quite heavy - it now weighs 2700 grams on tracks and 2575 grams on Unimog wheels. However, 2x BuWizz units manage the weight rather effortlessly, especially in Ludicrous mode. OVERALL LOOK Having modified an already sticker-heavy model, I decided to go a little bit further and add some BuWizz & sBrick stickers and Brickstuff printed tiles (three of those came as bonus with consecutive shipments from Brickstuff). The front of the model now looks a bit bulkier with the new bumper, and the addition of the bridging ladders to the roof rack gave it an even more adventure-ready look. I replaced the 2654 trans-clear round tiles on the bull bar and roof rack lights with a trans-yellow variant - I like the look of yellow headlights on vintage race cars. Additionally, the 3069b trans-clear 1x2 tiles on wing mirrors have been replaced with trans-orange ones, because of their newly acquired function of blinkers. Ling to the gallery: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jUqAZh1uowBBGpubQmRs6vS1ASuVkIBU
  20. Functions/features: Driven tracks Articulated steering Tipping bed Opening cabin doors Video: Photos:
  21. Hey guys, here's a rather simple project I recently started. I wanted to build something that's highly playable and not too complex, so I decided to do a tracked vehicle of some sort. However, this one will be unique in that steering is not done by tank drive, or by traditional steering. It's by an articulation joint like a front loader. This model will have all-track drive, articulated steering, and a pneumatically tipped bed. The bed will be on the rear module, which will contain no motors. All motorization is done on the front module and the only things passing through the articulation joint/turntable are the drive axle and pneumatic hoses. Propulsion is done by a single L motor above the front differential, steering is done by a M motor that controls 2 linkages going in opposite directions with worm gears, and the pneumatics are controlled by a M motor that simultaneously drives a 6L pump and Sariel's autovalve. The mechanical elements do take up plenty of room in the front module, but once the bodywork is in place most of it should be concealed. My main purpose in building this MOC is to find an opportunity to really use dark azure Technic pieces. My Grapple Truck I6 and my current WIP Red Beryl X were both started with the intent of using dark azure pieces, but both times I was faced with a limited collection of them. I've recently ordered some extra dark azure pieces off Bricklink, and considering a cab on a model this size shouldn't really use that much pieces I think this finally be my first dark azure MOC. If you guys have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photos:
  22. Good news, everyone! From the second attempt, but I finally managed to create this monster from the past. So, T-1000, also known as TET - Turbo-Electric Tractor, was originally created in Soviet Union in the 70s. It has manually operated hood and simple door lock. And the most important and gorgeous function - Transformation! Yes, this unique tractor can be both wheeled and tracked! When tracks are unfolded, driver's chair turns aside to provide comfortable working conditions. All fuctions that are RC: -wheeled driving - L -tracked driving - 2XL -transformation - 3L -fake engine - M -steering - M -foldable plow - L Just for demonstration I've made a simple plow, which can be attached to the rear hook for transportation or to the side hook for working position. Plow's L-motor connects to the tractor's IR reciever and then it's folding can be RC operated as well. Video as always is here: Thanks for watching. I hope, you liked it. P.S. What do you think, what was the purpose for which this tractor was created by soviet engineers?
  23. Hi Newbie around here, used to play with lego back in the days and somehow got back into it but this time as grown up and and adjusted gaming budget ended up buying some Lego Technics models along the way (mainly stuff with tracks :) ). So got my hands on the 42065 Tracked Racer, really liked it but fell in love with the B-Model/Off Road Truck and started putting my two RC 5292 motors into it. Here is a short video about the evolution to my so far "final" v5.3 Mod: Short recap about the progress: replacing the two PF motors with the RCs, and going for an SBrick increasing the wheel base and changing to 3:1 gearing, then getting to know about the fuse inside the battery box, adding suspension, moving the battery up increasing the wheelbase again to get two battery boxes inside and double the SBricks, and change to 1,667:1 gearing Putting the RCs horizontal with a 2.5:1 gearing Currently working on: Getting a GoPro attached Getting it a bit water/splash proof to be able to go through some puddles (so far cling foil wrapping battery cases) ToDo: Get some filminig done of the v5.3 with the 2.5:1 gearing Getting the PS3 controller working on the Nexus 5 together with the SBrick Future ideas Improving suspension, weight is currently heavy on the rear Getting a winch into it on the rear or front Automatic two gear box to get faster on plain surface and getting more torque when going through terrain, looking at sariels automatic two gear box so far, but it probadly wont fit p.s. These are my first attempts at shooting videos as well, so bear with me ;-) . Most of them are handheld from my Google Pixel while driving with my other hand on my old Nexus 5
  24. Hi, another Mini-MOC for you: here comes the Mini-Skidder This little thing is very powerful as it uses 2 L-Motors for drive and a third L-Motor for steering. Watch the video: On my brick safe page you can find the pics in higher resolution and of course an LDD-File: https://bricksafe.com/files/Leonard_Goldstein/woody_and_the_woodpicker/Woody-Woodpicker_V02.lxf Let me know what you think Regards Leonard Goldstein
  25. REVIEW - 42094 - TRACKED LOADER INTRODUCTION Looking at the entire range of 1H 2019 models, this model seems to be the one packing the most functions. Your milage may vary, but yellow "construction-ish" vehicles are always welcome to me. And this one looks particularly unusual and interesting. Let's find out what it is all about. This review might be less detailed than usual, but time was limited. Sorry about that. I do hope you enjoy it anyway! PICTURES Pictures can be clicked to view hi-res versions. More pictures can be found in my Flickr album. DISCLAIMER This set has been provided by the CEE Team of TLG. It's not my goal to promote this set. It's my goal to give you an honest opinion about it. Therefore, the opinion in this review is my own and is in no way linked to TLG. SET INFORMATION Number: 42094 Title: Tracked Loader Theme: Technic Released: 2019 Part Count: 827 Box Weight: 1095 gram Box Dimensions: 38,0 cm x 26,0 cm x 7,0 cm Set Price (RRP): € 59,99 Price per Part: € 0,073 Links: Brickset, Bricklink THE BOX CONTENTS OF THE BOX The box contains: 1x Booklet 1x Sticker sheet 8x Unnumbered bags BOOKLET STICKER SHEET BAGS HIGHLIGHTED PARTS PANELS These panels are new in dark bluish grey. The also appear in the Getaway Truck. 20T DOUBLE BEVEL GEAR WITH CLUTCH This gear first appeared in the Bugatti Chiron and it's good to see it pop-up in another set. Quote from the Chiron review; it's basically the same as the regular 20T bevel gear, but it has a pin hole, instead of axle hole. And it has clutches on both sides. PART LIST The part list for the 827 parts. THE BUILD The chassis already shows some of the functionality in this set. One of the rear axles is connected to the mini linear actuator and the other is connected to the large turntable. The axles are extended to outside the bodywork. You can also see the manually operated winch. The cabin is placed on top of the big turntable and can be rotated 360 degrees. That is one mean looking grabber on the boom. The undercarriage for the treads. You can see two springs, but they are not used as conventional suspension. They are used to put pressure on the sprockets. COMPLETED MODEL After adding the treads and connecting the chassis to the undercarriage, here's the final model. Two logs are included. Brutalis does look brutal. What I like most, is the design of the cabin. And I love that it can rotate freely, without any limits. This picture shows the cabin 180 degrees rotated. At the rear you can see the lever to switch between "Rabbit" and "Turtle" winch modes. Not that there is much difference between the two modes, but I like this added detail. After all, that's what Technic is all about. The bottom view of the undercarriage and chassis. Here you can see the front of the cabin, which looks stunning. As I said before, the vehicle doen't have suspension. It simply looks that way because of the springs. The rear view showing the winch, and the locking mechanism at the bottom right. The winch is operated by the 12T bevel gear on the right. B-MODEL The B-model looks promising. Could have been the main model. SUMMARY This medium sized set perfectly shows what the Technic theme is all about. It combines the looks with a handful of nice features. It does not have interesting new parts, but the features and aesthetics make up for this. This set definitely gets my nod of approval PROS Great aesthetics Rotating cabin via 12T gear (360 degrees) Raising and lowering boom via 12T gear Manually operated grabber Operating the winch via 12T gear Switching between two winch modes CONS Nothing really, maybe lack of actual suspension SCORE How do I rate this set? 8 DESIGN I love the cabin and overall aesthetics. 8 BUILDING EXPERIENCE Enough functions to provide a fun building experience. 8 FEATURES Packs enough features to make it interesting. 7 PLAYABILITY The treads limit playability on smooth surfaces. 7 PARTS Not too many interesting parts. 8 VALUE FOR MONEY Genuine Technic set for a reasonable price 7,7 GENUINE TECHNIC SET FINAL WORDS Thanks you for reading this review. All pictures can be found here.