Search the Community

Showing results for tags '4x4 '.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Frontpage, Forum Information and General LEGO Discussion
    • Guest Section - PLEASE READ BEFORE YOU REGISTER!
    • New Member Section - PLEASE READ BEFORE STARTING!
    • Frontpage News
    • Forum Information and Help
    • General LEGO Discussion
  • Themes
    • LEGO Licensed
    • LEGO Star Wars
    • LEGO Historic Themes
    • LEGO Action and Adventure Themes
    • LEGO Pirates
    • LEGO Sci-Fi
    • LEGO Town
    • LEGO Train Tech
    • LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
    • LEGO Action Figures
    • Special LEGO Themes
  • Special Interests
    • The Military Section
    • Minifig Customisation Workshop
    • Digital LEGO: Tools, Techniques, and Projects
    • Brick Flicks & Comics
    • LEGO Mafia and Role-Play Games
    • LEGO Media and Gaming
  • Eurobricks Community
    • Hello! My name is...
    • LEGO Events and User Groups
    • Buy, Sell, Trade and Finds
    • Community
    • Culture & Multimedia

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)


Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Country


Special Tags 1


Special Tags 2


Special Tags 3


Special Tags 4


Special Tags 5


Special Tags 6


Country flag

Found 213 results

  1. Hello All, I am working on a new MOC, which for I am experimenting a lot with unusual pieces in Technic. To achieve their proper implementation into the Technic world, I am at crossroad now: wether to build illegal (tiny stress) or find a legal solution. I prefer the illegal version in look and strength point of view - I can deal with slight bend of the connected parts, but of course a legal solution would be nice - I have 2 for now, but they just look to messy, and 1 of them is weak too (only rubber connection). Lime 15L beams on the RIGHT is the illegal, the others on the LEFT are legal, only 2L axles missing from rubber connectors (marked with pink): Hereby I would like to ask the community for brainstorming, parameters to follow: All red parts must be on place - no possibilities to move. Axles in the frame pieces to be rotate freely. All red parts must be fixed horizontally and vertically too, rigid connection needed. Must be buildable in reality too. The solution must look clean, visible part of the MOC. HERE You can find the LDD file - some parts will be dropped at open, as it was made in Developer Mode, please refer to the picture above. I hope You will find interesting this problem solving, I am open for any ideas. Thanks for everybody in advance!
  2. Presenting the 8258-B Crawler, Designed and built as an entry for the 'Crawlify your set' contest [AMS1] I'm a huge fan of b-models in general, but the 8258-B has always been one of my favourites due to great looks and an easy to modify. Or so I thought... In the end, I reckon about 85% of the chassis has been custom built. There are two L motors situated just below the cabin. One powers the front axle, one powers the rear. Both axles have differentials because, being independently powered, loss of traction is a lot less likely and it saves my poor pieces from becoming mangled. Because the 8258-B is rather small (read: narrow) I had a lot of trouble designing a front axle that could house a servo motor without limiting the range of suspension travel. Eventually I gave up and ended up modifying this axle to accommodate a differential (well deserved credit to the amazing @Madoca 1977). However with that said, I have made sure the bodywork stays almost 100% true to the original. The only alteration I had to made was to the rear wheelarches to make room for the balloon tyres: Original wheelarch Modified wheelarch: Also, the front winch kept scraping on obstacles I was trying to climb over so I switched this out for a bullbar, however the two are easily interchangeable. Anyways, here's a video of this thing in action. As always, please let me know what you think. Whether it's praise, criticism or telling me off for building ANOTHER red and black model (I have other colours, I swear!!), I'd love to hear it. More images can be found in this bricksafe folder. Enjoy =)
  3. I got this idea a while ago, when I first got Sbricks. Why not make modular, expendable system of axles and chassis pieces in order to create a system for offroad truck construction. Here is what I sketched up in LDD. First we have a basic axle. It uses 2 XL motors for drive, independet suspension and steering with servo Because we need a minimum of 2 axles, I designed a double chassis holder with two battery boxes: If we combine 2 axles with the double battery holder, we get the most basic configuration, a 4x4x4: In order to expand on the system I designed a single battery chassis extension: Finally we can combine the three basic modules into a 6x6x6: Or even a 10x10x10: In theory there is no limit how far you can go, but I think anything over 12x12 might cause too much strain on the chassis. Important details: - Axles are designed for Claas wheels, which are not in LDD, hence the wheels above may look small - Each axle can use any kind of a combiantion of number of springs and hardnesses for best flexibility and weight support - Each axle is meant to also house and S brick, which allows you fine steering angle control in order to support any kind of configuration or steering mode (only front, only rear, all wheel steering, crab mode) - For now this is still a concept, so I will relase the LDD file once I build, test and polish the concept
  4. Hi everyone. As soon as I got the Buwizz I wanted to build a very powerfull, yet model powered by RC motors. At first i wanted to build a trophy truck which uses Claas's wheels, but I decided to put that project on halt, because I got a better inspiration. As everyone knows Tesla makes fully electric cars packed with all kinds of features and gadgets. I want to do the same, integrating the following features: All wheel drive with 6 RC motors (2 front and 4 in the rear) - I learned from my previous record breaking Buwizz powered RWD driven model that when it comes to braking you need front wheel drive too for motors to act as brakes. Spring supported pneumatic suspension - A combination of pneumatic and normal spring suspension which allows the ride height to be set at an optimum level to keep the drive axles as straight as possible, therebye removing any vibrations or losses Remoe controlled compressor - Using Sbrick order to adjust the suspension system of the model Detailed compact double wishbone suspension - Using the 5L suspension arms, new hubs and wheels I was able to make driven, steered suspesnion with brake calipers Working lights and blinkers - Using Sbrick I plan to make all the lights including blinkers work Motorized doors and trunk - This way I can remotely open the doors and trunk Central entertainment system - In my case I want to stick the speed computer in the center console to measure the speed of the model *Crash avodiance system - if I will be able to get an Sbrick plus and a couple of WeDo proximity sensors I can come up with an automatic steering and braking system for the model Detailed exterior and interrior - As name suggest the model is planned to be made in 1:8 scale with as much deatil as possible. And lastly performance - Since I plan to use a total of 6RC motors driving the Porshe wheels with 1:1 ratio from the outermost motor output, i expect the model even though it will be probably around 3kg heavy to perform very good. Special attention was given to the steering system in order to keep it as stiff as possible. I hope to see a top speed of 15 km/h I already started working on the front axle, I will post the picture tomorrow. Meanwhile here is the prototype made in LDD As you can see on one side of the suspension wishbones I am using a normal spring, while the other side uses a small pneumatic cylinder. Suspension geometry is set in such way the springs and cylinders end up as far away from the hub as possbile, since Porsche's wheels are just so deep. Also notice the 1x4 half width liftarms used to support the springs. I will post photographs of the WIP as I go along. Wish me luck
  5. Time for everyone's favorite childhood vehicle, a Fire Truck! This one is modeled off of @HorcikDesigns fabulous Truck. This one takes his design, adds a little Renault, and some special features, and it's done. The manual truck has four wheel drive, with suspension based off my 8081 4x4, a I-4 engine, a link based steering system controlled by both roof lights, and a tilting cab with seating for four. Much more at thirdwigg,com, with a full gallery at flickr.com. Video is here.
  6. I said before in my previous post that I had some problems with my GX EV3 4x4 chassis that I needed to fix. Once again, it's more gear grinding/clicking, but this time it's only in the front and rear differential gears. The grinding occurs whenever the chassis tries to drive into a wall or when it tries to drive in different conditions (because as an SUV it should drive smoothly in dirt or uneven terrain). What also annoys me is that when I push the car, instead of letting the motors move, the differentials make clicking noises that, like I said before, sound like a machine gun. I really need help so I can stop the differentials from clicking so when the car tries to drive into the walls, the motors won't still move while the differentials click, and so the car can be a lot more versatile on uneven terrain (such as what I used for testing, blankets) without the differentials causing a problem when the car moves. Here's some pictures of the bottom of the chassis.
  7. Hello guys, Good Friday is here, everything is together to build but I'm somehow out of the ispiration. So I've decided to make a video about one of my old MOC's, however all those pics and vids I made back then are somewhat low quality. Excuse me for that please. It is an almost FJ40 looking dwarf jeep. Started out as an experimental chassis. Madoca's CUV had an interesting drivetrain and that inspired me to build the same concept as dense as it is possible. Accordingly it uses two PF L motors to drive each side separatelly trough an 8/24 gear ratio. A PF Servo motor is responsible for the steering and all govern by an Sbrick. As power source I could've use a AAA battery box, but since I'm addicted to my Lipo solution, I've used those. You may complain for the inaccuracy of using independent suspension in a jeep, so let me speak in my deffense: Once the chassis was done I was scratching my head what body should I put on it. As I said this is an old project, it has been done sometime when the FJ40 fewer gone across in the community. I'm being not quite good in building bodywork, decided to make something similar mostly following the shapes of rm8's FJ40. Probably it is a bit out of proportions, but since it was looking cute I've let it be as it was. Much later when I've discovered the Axle Collection Thread, I've find something similar to this suspension and drivetrain so I don't think it is any revolutionary here for you. Anyway, I hope you like this video peppered with some happy classical music. Happy Easter
  8. Prologue: I must admit, I’ve never thought to be able to reveal a proper entry that soon, but all the sparks came so suddenly and all of those fitted into the concept in my head, that the first digital model was ready in 1 night. Some fine tuning was done during another night, and now it sits beside me in it’s Brick Built Beauty. Excuse me for presenting via digital pictures for now, but this way I can give You nicer overview (according to my actual skills), live pictures and video will be done, of course. As it is basically ready, I decided to share it as inspiration to the community, I hope to see many awesome and fun creatures! Let me introduce my entry for the TC11 contest: Name: Bison - my robot is chubby, robust, has lot of power to push and for butting heads, and has biungulate heels to kick all around – just like a bison. My main objectives were to use 2 motors only (for intuitive control, which is essential in the battle arena), and to build a double sided robot, which is functional upside-down as well. Also, I wanted to follow the regular MOCing rules: ease of build, BB access must be simple, legal techniques (LDD compatibility). Parameters: Skid steering 4x4 drive via friction gears Motorized kick-heels via friction gears (signature move) Massive dozer blade (? signature move ?) Very robust structure (to survive rough beating) Modular build 439 parts (without batteries) 37x26x9 studs 1070 gramms (with Ansmann rechargable batteries) 0 gears The 2995 tyre works here very well, as it is more grippy than the average LEGO tires, and so is the 55978 too, as result I got a nice combo for my friction gear set-up. This can provide quite a lot power, but also works as clutch in extreme situations (motor protection). The only deviance what I had to apply (with staff approval): to fit the 2995 tyre to the inside of the 2996 rim lip (Click for picture - on the right), so I could fit them perfectly on the wheel hubs, without building those in offset with the housing. As here can be seen, it is pretty crowded in the inside, which I am very pleased with. After some minutes of test, I am satisfied with the result, it can easily push 3 kgs (milk cans), quite fast, and really works like I imagined. Let’s get to pictures, update will come! EDIT: video is ready, see post below.
  9. droomangroup

    [MOC] Jeep CJ5's

    as a continuation of my 4x4 series, i made a few Jeep CJ5's. i've attached the LXF file if you wish to check it out. anyway enjoy.... like my UTV builds the two seats are more for looks than function.... interior dash, w/ speedo and passenger side grab bar... some bottom side details, a faux driveshaft... the typical 4x4 gear i add to my MOC's, a spare tire and a jerry can and hilift jack of my own design... next i'm working on a YJ with different headlights, front fenders, door openings, and rollcage. I'm too lazy to make perfect instructions for this, however, here's some notes to supplement the crappy instructions from LDD (assuming your LDD gives you the same instructions)... + STEP 3, add a 2x4 black plate (from step 8) in front of the 1x6 plate on top of the main 2x12 plate before adding the 4x10 plate + STEP 6, before starting, jump to step 72 to make SNOT assembly that fills the fender gap, add that on first + STEP 10, before adding the 2x3 brick, you can add two downward facing 1x2 brackets (from step 91/92) to the top of the frontmost 1x4 plate you just added + STEP 14, save the hood until after step 88. + STEP 16, do step 17 first. + STEP 20, before adding the black 1x2 plate, add a 1x4 black plate that sticks out 2 studs past the rear of the jeep (from step 78) this will be the rack for the jerry can + STEP 21/22, you can add the four 1x2 plates with mounting studs on both sides of the 1x1 plate before adding the 1x2 tiles that overlap them. (the 1x2 plates with mounting studs show up in steps 28/30 & 59/62) + STEP 23, before adding the 1x4 plate you can mount the black and colored (white) technics 1x2 bricks with axle holes to the open 2x2 space, (these bricks are found in step 81), note the black brick can be a regular technics brick with a round hole, it's main function is to just give the small axle we'll use some room to go into, the outer brick should be an axle brick though since it will hold the spare tire in position. + STEP 24-26, do these steps AFTER doing steps 50-56 + STEP 50, before starting, do steps 53-56 + STEP 56, afterwards don't forget to go back and do steps 24-26 + STEP 65, do after step 68 (unless you are a wizard) hope that helps, brick on folks! jeep-cj-v5-white.lxf.zip
  10. Hello people of EB, Let me share my drift machine with you. It is the result of a long experiment in which I've been trying to figure out the recipe for the ultimate drifting experience. But let's start at the beginning: My first attempt was a RWD car as we all picture a drift car should be. And however it was capable to make doughnuts I was missing the proper handling, where coming out from an arc can be predicted, or even intended. Sadly I did not make a video about the first version, but drove me to the conclusion that the handling can be improved by extending the wheelbase. So the next version I've built longer and it verified my assumption, the handling has improved, yet came nowhere close to the level I've aimed. Lucky for us I made a video at this stage: https://www.flickr.com/photos/141631433@N07/33446568771/in/album-72157678342432663/ This car had a fairly simple build, using only 1 Rc buggy motor coonected directly to the rear differential, and a servo for steering. As power souce I've been using RC LiPo's (500mAh 25C). I know that divides the community not being approved by the church, but since I discovered it's pro's I'm addicted to them. Small size, low weight, yet capable to feed the buggy motor(s) trough Sbrick. This version of the car was around 720 gramms and I think this is a very friendly number on the scale in therms of a fast and agile vehicle. The Rc wheels I'm using on it have rubber tyres, but thanks to the low weight it could spin them without any additional preparation. Using them though is my personal obsession due to their geometry and aesthetics, has nothing to do with drifting abilities. Still I was missing the elongated arcs and the predictible behaviour. The only bottleneck I had was the controll. Touchscreen controlers drive my mad, not giving any physical sense about what am I doing. Imurvai's application for game controllers was like an oasis in the touchscreen desert for me. (God bless him). But even the physical controller couldn't give me that smooth controll on throttle what I wanted to keep the wheelspin on the border of loosing or keeping the traction. (does this make sense to you?) God I was missing the throttlecurve from my heli controller. :-) So a different approach needed and the idea came that 4 wheel drive should give me the last piece of the puzzle. In my theory the driven front wheels are pulling the vehicle in the choosen direction, while I have to admit this changes the overall behaviour too. So I've built the 4x4 version of that estate car: And after a few modification and addition I've achived the controlled skiding I was looking for. All wheels being driven the traction had to be lowered as 1 buggy motor/axle wasn't enough to make the tyres spin. Instead of using plastic wheels I 've picked my favorite tool: insulation tape. And here is why: Plastic wheels have so low friction on wood like driving on ice. I was gonna loose all the handling I was working for. The tape in the other hand gives considerably more friction/traction even if all the tyre is covered. But it isn't. By carefully choosing the right width of the tape let us fine tune the traction giving the ability to change between oversteer and understeer on demand, or deciding how "happy" the tail of the car we want it to be. On more benefit of the tape on the front wheels: If ther is a caster on the front, when it turns to any direction the wheels are tilting too, touching the floor only with their edge. As the edge is not covered by tape, so the rubber comes to contact, giving more traction when changing direction. And when the steering goes straight the traction lowered to the amount we set up by the tape so the wheels can skid and spin. And there is a subjective reason as well: plastic wheels are noise too. To improve agility I needed a handbrake too. The video gives a straight-forward explanation about it, I think it is qiute self explanatory stuff. The setup has enough power to stall the buggy motor. While I admit it's not "healty for the all parts, we have to accept: Every magic comes with a price. 4 motors and 4 LED's required 2 Sbrick to controll them. I think that is it so far. If I forgot to cover something, please feel free to ask about it, but let me point out I can't do much about being non purist. This is about engineering for me, not about religion. So anything regarding this subject will be answered by 1 minute of silence There are more pics in the Flickr gallery: https://www.flickr.com/photos/141631433@N07/albums/72157678342432663 Hope it was usefull for future drift projects Your comments are wellcome Attika Ps: Part of this subject I've posted the other day in an old topic started by rm8 in 2012. It what was digged up by a new member and finding that topic on first page made me share my fresh experiences without checking the date on the question. Hereby I apologise doing silly things like that.
  11. I have decided, that for my 500th post, I should introduce my new project, my biggest yet. I have chosen to make a Jeep Commando, which is a 2015 Jeep Wrangler with mil-spec additions. Full description can be found here and here are a few photos: JC side JC rear quarter And here are the blueprints I clumsily made up from the ones I found online: Jeep_Wrangler_JK_Unlimited_5door_2012_600_lq_0001 I have done all the math to find the size, based off the wheels I plan to use, which are the 43.2mm rims with 81.6mm balloon tires. So, if everything works out, it will be 45-47 studs long (bumper-to-bumper), and 21 studs wide (including mirrors). The functions I plan on having are: 1. Full PF including drive, steering, gearbox, lockable diffs, both central and on axles. 2. winch, PF, not RC 3. Opening doors, hood, tailgate 4. Partial interior I will begin today, hopefully I'll have some progress to report tomorrow. C&C, comments, any advice is welcome. Thanks!
  12. Hello, When I saw the very first preliminary image of the 42070, I was inspired to convert the 9395 Tow Truck into a 6x6 off-roader. After looking at some pictures, I realized it would be easier to make it a 4x4, so I've decided to go for that instead. I've had the idea in my mind for a few weeks, and don't have any current projects, so I'm going to start this one. Reference picture. ^^ Here is what the set looks like, IMO. This is what I want it to look like when I am done. ^^ The functions and features I want it to have are: 4 Wheel Drive with an XL Motor Steering with an M Motor 2 live axles pneumatic raising/lowering crane pneumatic extending crane I don't want it to be a rock crawler, but I want it to have off-road capabilities. Let's get started! I have built the truck with new axles and removed all of the inside functions. It has many problems, though, like the wheels rubbing the fenders and small range of movement for the suspension. Some pics: I'll be redoing the chassis soon but keeping the axles and changing them only a bit. Please tell me what you think.
  13. My previous crawler (Rock Beetle) won second place in LTR Truck Trial Competition in Trial category, and then I started to build new one for next competition. This time I decided to participate in the other category. First, I started with the chassis: Two L-motors for propulsion, M-motor for steering. The next step was the body, and the design of this MOC was inspired by Bowler EXR-S. I tried to copy this SUV, but in the end I stoped trying. So it is not the most accurate copy of this vehicle, just inspired. It has a lot of details that the original don't have, like the air intake on the hood, the spoiler and two chrome pipes. The last competition was exciting and I can't wait for the next one in April. I hope you like it! More photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/139343351@N04/albums/72157679544070205 Video:
  14. Hello! I wanted to build something small and powerfull, and most importantly, without the micromotor. So I built this thing in about 2h, and you can probably see that in the bodywork (I don´t have more red connectors). 2 Link live axles L motor for drive geared 0.36 M motor for steering geared 0.2 Video: If you want I can upload an LDD file, but someone has to tell me how to do that. Maximum articulation The springs keep the axles straight The IR receiver doesn´t fit inside the bodywork
  15. Peteris_Sprogis

    [MOC] 4x4 Adventure SUV

    city / speed champions style 4x4 Adventure SUV car moc. 6 wide minifigure scale, cabin seats one fig and the rear trunk can be lifted up. Free building tutorial available in the video. Thanks for watching!
  16. IMG_20161226_142421106_HDR_edit by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr After designing my own 3D printed wheels I needed something to put them on, so i started to make a jeep. The axles where made fast but making a chassis that fits my demands was hard. Although it wasn't the hardest part, it took a lot of time. As the chassis was finnished i started making a body, because u can't have a car without a body. I chose to make a elevated body as it was easier and i am not a master in making a body. Eventualy, I ended up with a jeep with a flatbed IMG_20161226_142621723 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr Specifications: opening hood, doors and trunk fake "W12" engine interior Heavy duty 2 speed gearbox winch with directional gearbox pendular rear axle 7 studs central groundclearance 4 studs at lowest point (front axle) total wheight: 2390 gram chassis wheight: 863 gram body: 1248 gram motors: XL for drive Servo for steering M for gearshift M for winch M for fake engine gearbox: high gear: 34.8 RPM 60.9 N.cm low gear: 12.5 RPM 169.23 N.cm. Altough this beast wheighs more than 2 KG it can pull itself vertical up. Note that the chassis can be builded withought the body. This means you can ditch the engine bay which wheighs 560 grams. There is no central differential, but I had to implent a differential on the front axle in order to improve steering. Because i don't have a cental differential i had to fit a differential in the rear axle and because of that i made a new axle IMG_20161226_181600762_edit by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr thanks to its high groundclearance it can even go trough some creeks IMG_20161226_160255146 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr the day the video was it was slippery, as the video was shot i already had drove a lot. because of this the wheels were filled with dirt and were slippery. As this happend, it was already hard to get up a 30-35° angle. With the new tractor tires it would probrally gone better but i don't have them more pictures: https://flic.kr/s/aHskNE4VCf my youtube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIYMoFhqHPboctgPosC56yA
  17. G'day from Australia everyone! This is my first topic created on Eurobricks and my first serious MOC since the end of my "dark age". I'm seriously super glad to be here and keen to share my Technic creations with you all from now onward. With this in mind, if there's any way I can improve how/what I post, by all means let me know so I can keep everyone (including staff) content. I am committed to giving this site the full respect it deserves. :) As a few of you have suggested, it's a good idea when coming out of your dark age to develop designing/building skill by drawing on other people's MOCs for inspiration and guidance for different building techniques... Partially inspired by SevenStuds' recreation of Tim Cameron's rock bouncer "Showtime", I present my own 4x4 Rock Bouncer. Features.. Drive: 2 PF XL motors (1 per axle). Final ratio is 3:1. Steering: 1 PF Servo motor with rack and pinion Suspension/axles: Full-time locked solid live axles with portal hubs (geared 3:1), suspended by 9.5L shock absorber (soft) (2 per axle) and stabilized by a double triangulated four-link setup. Tires: Third party scale RC tires similar to the "Rock Crusher" by RC4WD. Battery: 1 x PF AA battery box Receiver: 1 x PF V2 I initially began designing some kind of rock crawler which was to include PF XL motors, third party tires of some description and (after quite a while researching suspension design) double triangulated four-link suspension. This kind of suspension is ideal as it provides maximum articulation and strength of the axle while eliminating the requirement for a Panhard Bar or Watts Linkage because the triangular positioning of the upper and lower control arms oppose each other, eliminating sway and allowing all desirable movement. By far the most difficult part of designing was the requirement for a steering shaft which moved harmoniously with the suspension cycle of the front axle. Because the upper control arms are shorter than the lower ones, the angle of the axle relative to the chassis changes through it's cycle and this means that when positioning the steering shaft, it must be such that the radius of it's motion doesn't change (due to angle change) as TLG doesn't offer any part which works purposely as a slip joint to negotiate the effect of plunge. After many, many, many... many attempts, a sweet spot was discovered which offered a negligible discrepancy. (This was a happy moment). It's biggest performance drawback would have to be that when the angle of climb and drive torque applied is too great, the rear lower control arms buckle and the rear axle begins to walk under the chassis. Trust me, it's cringe-worthy. With 15L beams instead of 16L links and consequently different suspension geometry, however, this could be resolved. The turning circle also suffers due to the wheel base. Overall, I am reasonably happy with the final product as it is capable of most of the things I intended it to be and in my opinion, the body could look worse. ;) I unfortunately don't have video footage, but I do have photos (see below). Enjoy! All comments welcome. :D
  18. Hello everybody! This is my first post on EuroBricks! My Flickr: Silvavasil_Lego Jurassic Park Jeep PF: Light - Servo -Lipo - XL LDD: Jurassic Jeep Instruction Look and like my Jurassic Jeep on Rebrickable please! ;) This is '90s Jeep Wrangler from legendary blockbuster Steven Spielberg's "Jurassic Park" As a child i feel in love with this movie. Now i have put together two of children's hobbies - lego and dinosaur!) This is lego technic rc MOC Powered by Lego LiPo battery, remote control drive and steering (XL & servo motors) all wheel drive, suspension, working headlights, opening doors, hood and tailgate, and a folding windshield. Photo by me too) Adventure 65million years in the making! Good text from the Brothers Brick: Incredible LEGO Jurassic Park jeep looks right at home in the jungle And Lego Car Blog: Jurassic Jeep
  19. Hello everyone, I built a model of holden\isuzu suv The vehicle called holden Jackaroo and based on the Isuzu Trooper Zebra color of The vehicle taken from a set 6672 And the base chassis is 10 x 4 There are side steps also to protect the body of the vehicle in off road croling. and also to help the driver climb inside. There are also icons of a "shell" on the side of the The vehicle, allegedly shell is the "sponsor" of this vehicle travel (like the journeys of the Land Rover company when camel were the sponsors' see "camel trophy") One wheel is different, seeing as the interchange Wheel. Here are some pictures of the vehicle that I built. The real vehicle:
  20. Here comes something powerful, duel motor, 4x4... IMG_0374 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr Video and description coming soon... Look at post #10
  21. droomangroup

    BrickRock Moab - Jeep Edition

    hey all, so another year another calendar. I've shown off a few of this years MOCs before, but here's the pics that made the cut. (you can see last years thread here... http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=102510 ) The cover shot to celebrate the Park Services 100th Anniversary (also the August pic). A Two Door JK and CJ5 in Island in the Sky Four Door JK's (one Expedition prepped) and some XJ's on Fins and Things A gnarly custom crawler Jeep and a spotter in a JK (he took the bypass), all geared up for Easter Jeep Safari A Setup JK (with LED bar and winch) and the Expedition JK hitting the washes. A old curmudgeon and his Navy issue Willys to celebrate Armed Forces Day on the 21st Although the willy grill was definitely inspired by others i have seen i did my best to make it my own and build it without directly relying on others. I think i made some nice moves with using the old dark grey and the flags for seat back as well as a neat trick where i used lightsabers and 1x1 bricks with 4 side studs to create smaller red side markers on the back corners. you can't see the markers in the previous pic, but you can see in this earlier rev here (before i changed the window frame)... A stock XJ overlooking the White Rim A classic CJ8 with a truck cab top and classic wood trim sides near Uranium Arch (my favorite Jeep of this project) A YJ and CJ5 on the trail. Both of these Jeeps were in last year's calendar, but the YJ got a facelift and I reworked the grill to give it a better YJ look. I'm especially proud of the SNOT cheese slope move on the front to give it a better looking front grill. A tricked out, no-door YJ Crawler making light of a little climb. This one I was going to build with a full on exo-cage, but it ended up being too much so I stripped it down for a cleaner look. A Girl Powered top down purple JK crawl under a LEGO scale arch. The purple was actually really hard and expensive to get parts for, originally there was six 1x1 plates in the design, but when I realized that part was only ever available in the Harry Potter Knight Bus set, I had to redesign it down to only needing 2 since it was impossible to even find someone with 6 of them. Santa's red CJ5 stuck in some snow in the La Sals....hopefully the elves can dig him out :) The back cover with a couple in their CJ5 with a UTV hot on their trail. Finally here's a shot of us out on the trail with our UTV with some a custom decal i made :)
  22. Hey Guys I've been working on a 4x4 with plow and a 4 speed box but im having trouble with the power functions and actually moving the vehicle. The 4 speed is geared super low to have torque to plow or rock crawl but it can still barely move in 1st and 2nd. the truck is pretty heavy and when the engines start to get enough torque to move it a set of gears starts to slip. i'm currently using to pf Xl motors to run the drive train both are newer versions. any solutions or ideas would be welcome and pictures soon to come.
  23. Hi, Summer is ending, and I decided to create something to make another outdoor video. So, here’s my trial truck: 4x4 PF: XL, M, IR, LiPo Leaf spring suspension Video:
  24. Hi there, my name is Terry and my son is Ben. We love Lego and like to see other people's creations. I would like to share our Lego Land Rover project with you which is on Lego Ideas. We need your support! Will post properly on the forum but here is the link if you would like to register
  25. Hello all! I make it after fail Porsche. My first crawler for future competitions: 4x4, moving by 2 l-motors, 2 differentials, steering by m-motor, eazy access to battery block. And video: More photos on my flickr: https://www.flickr.c.../139343351@N04/