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About JJ2

  • Birthday July 13

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    Samuel S

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  1. You can't put all three on 1 output, I use a typical 3 channel car remote, the FlySky FS-GT3B, on the receiver there are 3 ports + a battery port (you would need a different remote with more channels, more on that later) to have two motors that you can control direction independently of each other you will have to buy two ESC's, I would recommend the HobbyWing 1060 brushed ESC, it's relatively cheap and works well. You would need to buy a servo-wire splice with one female end and two male ends, so you can plug the female side into the receiver motor port and the two male side into the ESC. To get independent motor control you would need a switch that would reverse the polarity of the wires coming out of the ESC, switching the negative and positive, that would be actuated by a servo. Doing that would reverse one motor so you can tank steer, keep in mind after doing that pulling the throttle stick would make it turn in place, lets say the previous forward would be turn left, and the previous reverse would be turn right. For the steering you need two ports, one for the front steering, one for the rear like you want. The total receiver you need for the cheapest option are, 1 for drive, 1 for drive-motor reverse, 1 for rear-steer, and 1 for front-steer, so a total of 4, lights and winch would have to be manual. I would recommend signing up to a hobby RC web-sight, I'll PM you the link to avoid posting here, the people there are a lot smarter with this them me and might have a much better idea.
  2. Okay thanks for clarifying on the drive-chain, since you're using two different drive axles and metal parts, two 540 can-sized motors would work well, you would have enough space with the 8x8 size. I think the 3-4 speed transmission would be overkill because when you get more and more speeds the amount of gears skyrockets and you gain lots of friction with typical Lego transmission driving rings with all the unused gears. I would recommend an un-sequenced transmission inspired by Sariels Heave Duty Linear Transmission but using 3:1 gear ratios and 1:1, the Traxxas Summit, a very good crawler uses a 25:1 and a 75:1 gearbox, mostly the same concept but it uses a more transmission-driving-ring inspired design. Last thing about the transmission, those 550 can motors if you get a high turn version can be VERY torque-y and if you are using two of them you should be fine with only 2 speeds. I would recommend a 35t motor or something around there, they are a good mix of torque and speed.
  3. What scale would you be planning on building in? If you using one motor for each side of the vehicle so you can tank steer along with regular steering I would recommend two brushed 380 can-sized motors for 1/10 but anything larger would stress them without a very large gear reduction, 540-550 can-size motors would work for 1/8 well but would be hard to deliver that torque through Lego parts. If you want 1 motor for both sides 1/10 a 540-550 motor would be fine, for 1/8 a 540-550 would be fine also you would just have to get a higher-turn motor gain more torque but loose speed. I think a Nimh battery would work fine, easier to use and does not take an expensive charger, 6-cell would work fine, for lights a small 1 cell LiPo would be fine. For your controller, I think an airplane-type controller would most likely work fine but I just use the standard 3-channel car transmitter. I think you would need about 6 channels, drive-steering-rear steering-lights-transmission-transmission, but if you wanted a winch and different controlled sides of the drive chain that would be 2 other channels which would cost a lot. If you wanted different controlled drive-chains to tank steer that would require two ESC's which would be a higher cost and would require a much better radio, one that you can program. I would recommend only a two-speed transmission, three speeds would be a little overkill.
  4. When is the technic forum theme going to be put back on? still trying to work on it and figure out the polls?
  5. I have the first edition and love it, it helped me so much when I first got it, I would buy this version but I already have experience with the new chapters contents
  6. TLG has replaced a few parts for me, I would just contact them again and tell them what happened, I'm sure they will send another part
  7. Amazing photo, what did you use to light up the ground?
  8. Yet another incredible MOC, I like the suspension a lot, I had an idea like that and was going to use it in one of my crawlers but never did. Because of the way the suspension was made when it travels does it change the steering angle?
  9. Still does not work for me, I'm using firefox by the way
  10. This did not work for me, confusing...
  11. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but an Sbrick will get fried by a brushless motor if they were even compatible. Lego motors are brushed so they have 2 wires, while brushless motors have 3 wires, and require a brushless system, the Sbrick is brushed so it will not work. Your best bet is to get a 1100mah or higher Mimh-LiPo battery, brushless ESC, a FlySky remote-reciever combo because it is cheap but high quality, and a 380 brushless motor, anything else with a larger can size will be much harder to deal with, @PorkyMonster has used a 540 in his builds with success though.
  12. I made a border out of big duplo blocks for my desk
  13. @Mesabi I have large 2.5~foot drawers with deviders in them and they are full of parts and I use sort them by type of part and usefulness, I don't have any labels and after years of using it I still use the wrong draws 50% of the time or more when I need 1/2 beams or gears
  14. That looks like a 3d printed differential, its like a lego one but has thicker walls so it does not grind