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Found 460 results

  1. I started playing around with the idea of European style semi truck again. I built a prototype to test the chassis design with motors side by side. The core idea here is that both motors are oriented towards back so you can put the medium Technic frame on top of them as well as have cables managed up front. Prototype showcase: It'll take some time before I'll finish the whole semi truck build, but I prepared the instructions for the chassis so you can build it. Instructions are available for free on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-86118 Sneak peek of the instructions:
  2. Let´s start with brand new model for the LEGO Technic Challenge. A 29 cm tall figure of American astronaut with moving wrists, elbows and shoulders. The helmet is equipped with two PF lights and both arms are operated by PF M motors. The model is remote controlled and powered by rechargeable LEGO battery.
  3. Hi! This time I'd like to show you this model of a Japanese car - Toyota Corolla TE72! It is really simple and it has only tow functions: driving (buggy motor) and steering (Servo motor), but it is also possible to install working front lights. It is pretty fun and quick, though it doesn't have any suspension. It is almost the same scale as the 42109 TopGear car set. The goal was to make a recognizable model, so I hope you will like it. :) Video link: Photos: Thank you!
  4. Lego released a new Creator veichle and as a tradition I have motorized it with remote control. A bit easier to hide all electric parts this time as the car is really big. But it is also heavy and slow with only one L motor for drive. There are some small changes to the interior, but all details are still there. I have created instructions to build it with Powered Up parts, but if there are any interest I might add instructions for other power systems later. Rebrickable Instructions Youtube Video
  5. Good day, everyone! This project has started as an idea of creating better a bodywork for 42099, but after some time in development it turned into undependent rc modification of Defender 42110. I took inspiration from Bowler WildCat and Bowler Nemesis which are extreme buggy-like offroaders based on Land Rover cars. So I pondered the question, What if... new Defender would be made into Bowler? In result - original defender has become lower, has got lower roof profile, bigger tires, front and rear pushbars, snorkel pipe, stronger footrests, two sets of additional lights and fog lights, antennas, front and rear mudguards, some chains ('cause chains are cool!). Engine was swapped from 6-inline to V8-supercharged! (After I made this model in spring, LR has announced that they will actually make a V8 Defender. Sadly, not supercharged :) Engine and cooling fan are connected to the front axle via chain links. (Yes, chains ARE cool. I had to buy whole Ducati set for this) And the most important - Control+ components. As this Bow-fender shares control profile with 42099, set of electrics is the same. One XL+ for each axle One L+ for steering SmartHub for SmartThings And then I found out that I am... well... not really good in making offroad chassis. At least it was my first try. So I tuned it as much as possible and made a note for future to learn more about lego offroading. (I think, I'll start with Zetros). Video of how this Bow-fender drives on everything it can is of course here: Watch till the very end! And Thanks for watching. Subscribe. P.S. This cat was walking nearby, while I was making video, so I asked him to participate. So there is A cat in the video now, instead of THE Cat - erpillar :)
  6. Please suport my project on Lego Ideas. https://ideas.lego.com/projects/bc17ae38-b3e7-4cb2-b804-401e0bcc7aef Power functions: 3x L-motor 1x IR Receiver 1x IR Remote Control 1x AAA Battery Box 1x Control Switch 1x Extension Wire Description All openable doors. Model have fake motor V6. Color: Black and Yellow Number of Pieces: 800-100 Thank you very much for your support! Military version: Hägglunds BV 206s
  7. Hi mates! It has been some time, I only teased differend WIPs but never showed a finished one the last months... No honestly, I just had no time - but now it´s here: Davy Jones, do you fear the Black Pearl? The ship is fully motorized accompanying my "Rolling" Dutchman: Motorized Features: Rolling movement caused by waves (1. L-Motor) Motorized movement for- and backward (1. L-Motor, switched manually) Motorized steering with simoultaneously rotating ship´s wheel, rudder and steering mechanism (1.S-Motor) Motorized sail trim with turning capstan and changing sail position of all square sails (2.S-Motor) All features can be controlled by rc-control via 4 channels and two receivers The battery box can slide out easily to switch on/off and change batteries EXTRA: The lower cannons can fire a broadside automatically! General Features: Two decks with cannons (one side the lower deck is closed to store the motors) The two tripple-barreld chasers can manually slide backwards and then the gun ports can be closed Handmade sails or original Lego-Sails Two functional anchors Upper cabin minifigure size (illuminated by light-brick) The ropes between the masts can be removed easily to take them apart for transport There is a video on youtube showing the ship and its functions (german): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=35WEGDM8yYE The functions are shown at e.g. 04:55 and the shooting mechanism at 07:18. I have the ship with self-made sails fitting the style of my "Rolling" Dutchman as well: I hope you enjoy it! My dream is a video reassembling the popular footage in the maelstroom, I hope I can arrange something similar in the future... Yours, Captain Störtebricker
  8. Hi, Here is my take on rock crawlers – I present to you an unstoppable and fully customizable rock crawler: „Hornet”! I called it unstoppable and fully customizable not without a reason. You can find out why in the video and in extensive list of features, details and links below the video. Instructions can be found HERE, they are free of charge, I hope many of you will be able to build it and have fun playing with it outdoors as I did. Without further talk, please enjoy the video! Details and main functions: • dimensions LxWxH: 36x22.5x19.5 cm • weight: 1.55 kg • 4x4 drive (3xL motors) • steering (M motor) • live axle suspension, front and rear • openable doors • easy removing the whole body with locks hidden in bumpers • it fits Lego Technic Figure Configuration options: 1. Drive and steering • Power version: 3xL PF motors for drive and M PF motor for steering front axle • Agile version: 2xL PF motors for drive and 2xM PF motors for steering on both axles 2. Body • „Hornet” – default body, more build-up, with opening doors • „Red Ant” – alternative body, more open one, 25% lighter than „Hornet” body 3. Suspension • Four independent, clearly visible mounting points available for each shock absorber • Multiple mounting points allow to configure four parameters of the suspension and the whole MOC: - suspension stiffness (from soft to hard) - suspension travel (from long to short) - body height (from low to high) - body style (from rock crawler to monster truck) • suspension can use both long and short shock absorbers Other features (which you may or may not spot on the video): • both bodies are equipped with two seat simple interior with steering wheel and some minor details • both available bodies are prepared in a way to avoid visibility of blue pins • frame is also prepared in a way to avoid blue pins • blue pins in frame are used mostly to high light mounting points for suspension and point out the front of the frame • frame prepared to be allow easy pairing with any new bodies • frame is equipped with simple cable management to avoid damaging motor cables during off-roading • changing connections of shock absorbers to the frame is fast and easy • MOC can be easy carry on both via body or accessable handle at the bottom of the frame • center of the mass is located at the center of the MOC • center of the mass is located low, most of the weight is present in axles • drive doesn't use differentials to maximize off-road capabilities • both axles are secured with panels to protect axles and drivetrain against any dangerous objects (grass, rocks, etc) • high ground clearance for both axles even with using planetary hubs • L motors are connected to planetary hubs without any reduction – this provides both speed and necessary torque • approach angle is 90 degrees, front and rear More photos you can find HERE
  9. Hello Eurobrickers, Finally I am ready to present my latest MOC, the so called Bruiser Conversion of the 4-door Jeep Wrangler. The real thing is done by JK Crew, it looks like this (more awesome pictures here): The conversion includes pimped up suspension, a longer body on the rear part, turned into a pickup, and larger wheels. As for the scale, the real Jeep Wrangler has around 80 cm wheels, and the conversion has around 110 cm wheels. I thought this would be an excellent material for an alternate build from the 42110 Land Rover set because of the color match and the available parts (like those rear mudguards), and the 80 mm wheels of the Defender, and the 107 mm Lego tractor tires result in a good 1:10 scale match. I thought it would deserve the large tires and a motorization, all available in the set 42099. So I ended up with two versions: - Manual version, pure alternate build from 42110, with an optional raised geometry and large tires - RC version that is a dual alternate with 42099 I will present both versions below. They are identical on the outside, they differ in the chassis build and the gearbox / drivetrain. Manual version (42110 alternate) I wanted to build something from the Land Rover that has a more aggressive suspension with large articulation. I have been playing with the idea of 4-link suspensions on both axles, and the 8 A-arms in the set are just enough for that. However, I had to do it with short springs only, so I used similar geometry as the rear axle of Grohl's stadium truck, but with longer lower links on both axles. Furthermore, I wanted to build it in a way that works both with the stock Defender wheels, and with larger ones. So I built a chassis in a way that the springs can be positioned in two places, and the suspension geometry becomes lower or higher. Along with this, the front axle is also moved one stud to the front, to make space for the steering of the front wheel (just like in the real version). As such a suspension requires a lot of space (if you want large articulation), the actual useful space in the middle of the model becomes relatively short. I wanted to preserve the same functions of the gearbox as in the Defender, so I had to compact it. Taking ideas from the Pimp my Land Rover project I managed to create a version of it that fits into the available space, keeping the same layout of the controls. Furthermore, I have included a functional V8 engine (the real one has a V8 Corvette engine). One part that I struggled with a lot was the HoG steering, as it was quite hard to bypass the gearbox and the front seats as well. Finally I managed to do it under the seats, but I could not fit a functional steering wheel as the chassis structure that holds the front suspension was just in the middle of its way. The interior came out quite clean and also replicates the real one quite well I think. The seats are similar to those of the Defender, but I had to make them shorter, as the roof is also shorter: On the outside one key point is that the real thing (at least this version) has its doors made of steel bars (which gives it a great look I think). This is good as the Defender would not have enough green panels to build 4 doors, but the bar doors could be built (at first I did not think I could get such a clean look, but I am quite happy with the result). On the front, I reused some ideas from my Willys Jeep, but changed it to a bit more modern look. On the rear part, the fender piece was an obvious fit, and I wanted to emphasize the bed with system parts, which also came out nicely I think. At first the A and B pillars and the roof was tricky to make solid, as it is only built from a few liftarms. But the final assembly is super strong, thanks to the column in the middle that goes through the gearbox (that was a key structural element to make). The model can be lifted safely with the roof. Some side panelling was also tricky to get into place, but I am satisfied with the overall looks. The doors, the hood and the tailgate are openable. The spare wheel fits nicely in the bed. One last feature I could add thanks to the Defender parts is the front bullbar with a compact functional winch (with rachet mechanism). Here are some side-by-side images for a comparison. I think it works well with both wheel options. More info, pictures and building instructions are available on Rebrickable. RC version (42110 + 42099 alternate) For the RC version I decided to use components from set 42099 as it has everything required: XL motors for torque, heavy-duty CV joints, planetary hubs, more A-arms and hard springs for suspension and the few extra parts in black color. First of all, I wanted to motorize it in a way that I keep the interior and the functional fake engine as well. Second, I wanted to add a simplified gearbox. The placement of the battery was obvious in the bed, the steering motor would go onto the front axle, but the space required for the two (coupled) XL motors was less obvious. Finally, I could squeeze them under the rear seats, and place the gearbox in front of them into the drivetrain. As for the gearbox, incorporating a 2-speed one (hi/lo gear) was simple, but I wanted to do something more with the available parts. Finally, I managed to add an RWD/AWD switch. For this, gearbox routing is a bit tricky, going through itself through idler clutch gears, and returning later. Furthermore, the front and rear parts of the driveshaft rotate in opposing directions, which is resolved later by the proper placement of the differentials on the axles. It was really challenging to brace the whole gearbox properly so that the gears cannot skip anywhere, I had to rebuild and test it several times (those two coupled XLs have a lot of power). On the downside, I suspect the relative complexity of the gearbox add some friction to the system. As I wanted to maximize ground clearance, the front axle was tricky to build, since the planetary hubs can only be connected with ball joints when steered. For this, I applied the trick used by other as well, that slants the lower A-arms a bit, resulting in very slightly non-vertical front wheels, but it is so negligible I bet you'd never notice. The resulting axle is fairly slick, I am happy with the result. As the steering motor made the front axle higher, the functional piston engine had to be minimized as well, and I could only do a mini V6 with the available parts. Unfortunately, this small construction does not run super smooth in a V configuration (sometimes the 2L liftarms in the main shaft kind of collide into the half pins that make up the pistons for a moment, instead of smoothly pushing them up; the inline configuration with the same technique works smoother). For this reason, there is some friction resulting from driving the fake engine as well. Here is the final chassis, and one more image about the ground clearance at the rear: Although the final gearbox construction is strong enough not to let the gears skip, there is one weak link: the driving ring can move out of the clutch gear under very high torque (although in my tests the model sooner went up the wall if not blocked). This is because the gear stick does not firmly hold it in place. However, it can be solved by fixing it into one position with a linkage coming out of the center column. This issue made me think how much more powerful it could be if the gearbox and the fake piston engine was bypassed, and eventually led to the construction of a heavy-duty variant (in which the gearbox is still kept, but instead controls the speed of the fake engine, when not in neutral). The heavy-duty variant is further geared down a bit to have even more torque. It can climb almost everything if the ground clearance permits, as you can see quite a few cases in the video. A few more images about the whole model: More info, images and building instructions are available on Rebrickable. Let me know how you like it! Cheers, Viktor
  10. I would like to present the result of my Winter-project. A big thank you to everybody who supported me in the corresponding WIP-topic and of course to @DugaldIC for challenging me! Instructions are available on Rebrickable. Features: Turn-table-based wheel-hubs with minimal slack 4WD by means of 4 L-motors powered by two BuWizz 2 units Fully independent suspension Steering with Servo-motor 30 degree steering angle with Ackermann geometry Caster angle Fake V8-engine driven by M-motor Can handle a rough ride Liftable by roof, nose and tail Everything in-system Stats: Parts #: 1844 Weight: 1980gr Length: 54 studs Width: 35 studs Height: 23 studs I hope this will pull @Blakbird back into Technic . Some stills from video-material. And finally a few short videos.
  11. Good Day. Today I present you another japanese car in 1/11 scale - Autozam AZ-1. This kei class sport coupé is one of the most recogniseable/famous ones outside japan in spite of it's poor sales due to the high asking price and the burst of the bubble economy at the time. It also forms part of what is known as "Heisei ABC Trio" (Autozam AZ-1; Honda Beat; Suzuki Capuccino). The real car was developed by Mazda (Autozam being their brand focused on Kei car and sales of rebadged vehicles) with the F6A engine (in-line 3-cylinder DOHC turbo) coming from Suzuki. It was sold in the standard, Mazdaspeed and special editions (such as M2 1015) as well as under Suzuki badge as "CARA". Following the japanese kei class category standards, AZ-1 has 64ps (47'8kW) and is quite small at 3295 x 1395 x 1150 mm. To put that into perspective, here it is against a "small" european car: Some of the reasons why this car stands out so much are the gullwing doors and the MR layout. This model represents the standard edition, with a low factory spoiler(wing?), in it's iconic two-tone red+gun metal colour scheme. Initially it was intended to use the 43.2 wheels, but after making the Daihatsu Hijet in 1/11 scale with the 49'5x14 tyres, I wanted to make them in same size. This allowed me to cram both more detailing and functionality. The final model's features are: - M-motor for drive (with differential) - Servo for steering - Front independent MacPherson strut suspension with positive caster angle - Rear independent MacPherson strut suspension - Working steering wheel - Working fake engine - Working headlights - Detailed dashboard with AC vents, stereo and gauges - Detailed interior with gearlever, emergency brake, seats and door detailing - Openable doors, boot and bonnet I've tried to replicate the general look the best I could and to make the model more or less consistent overall. Hence the use of liftarms placed onto flexaxles for front quarter panels, as bare flexaxles stood out too much. The side intakes took some time to make as well, and even though I've tried using the 1x2 grille tiles, in the end the bionicle tooth piece ended up being my go to solution. The lower door sills actually use a bit of inherent slack coused by frictionless pins to archieve that slight inwards angle towards the bottom, but it is quite sturdy and doesn't damage any parts. Presentation video: PDF instructions available on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-86177/syclone/rc-autozam-az-1/ Photo gallery (and an extra at the end of post): I've actually forgotten to take an underside picture, so here's a render instead to make up for it. Although red is definitely the most iconic colour for the AZ-1, there was also a second factory-available colour - blue. Unfortunately TLG's Technic colour palette has barely any blue parts, and having Bruno's Ferrari as parts donor the choice was already made, but if you don't mind ordering 3rd part parts, here's what it'd look like: Hope you've enjoyed this small model - C&C is most welcome as always)))
  12. Hi everyone, I've finished trying to RC my 42043 and it seems that the PF L motor has issues providing sufficient power to drive the set? I obtained instructions from the creator of this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpP_05uxKqs&t=22s&ab_channel=PawełWojnarowski) and also checked PPUNG DADDY's 42043 RC video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8easq7ueIo&ab_channel=PPUNGDADDY(뿡대디)-LEGOTECHNICRC), both used an L motor with no problems. Here's a video of the issue: https://youtu.be/J8P13WLPzN8. As you can see in the video, the motor loses power after driving for some time, eventually being unable to drive at all. The problem is worsened when I try to drive and steer at the same time, it's almost impossible to drive and turn. I have tried swapping the tyres around, changing batteries, trying a V1 and V2 IR receiver, switching positions of the motor and servo cables, and using a new L motor. But the problem still persists. Here's a photo of the L motor: Could it be because of excess friction introduced in the rear axles during construction? Because I noticed when I lifted up the rear axles, the motor spins the wheels at its standard rpm, BUT only 1 wheel on each axle spins, the other is stationary. Then when the wheels contact the floor, the motor suddenly seems to struggle with driving the thing. Hence I was thinking could it be that I built the differential too "tightly"? Appreciate any help from the technic experts in this forum, thanks in advance!
  13. When I got Off Road Buggy set (42124) in my hand and saw new tyres I instantly get idea for new creation. I must make new Tatra truck. The only question it was if would be the 815 model or the new Phoenix. Then I remembered that I made my first version of Tatra Phoenix model 10 years ago and now it is the time to fix the problems of that model... This is my new model of legendary Czech brand of trucks Tatra. The model Phoenix is in trial truck version. This is full RC with Buwizz 2.0 brick and 2 Buwizz motor for drive. These motors make the vehicle very powerful (watch the video). Also the new tires give it good features and appearance. Specifications:-Full independent suspension (front axle hard springs, rear axle soft spring)-Modular desing (chassis, cab, superstructure)-Detailed interior-The door can be opend-The superstructure is not only for the design but also serves to protect the cab from tipping over 360 degree view Instructions are also available: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-85659/blaz62/tatra-phoenix-6x6-trail-truck/#details
  14. 01 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr Hello, Bozos! You can support Johnny 5 on Lego Ideas to turn him into an Official Johnny 5 Lego Set here: Johnny 5 on Lego Ideas Who is Johnny 5? Those who don’t know him, Johnny 5, also known as “S-A-I-N-T Prototype Number 5” or Number 5 for short, is a very lively and inquisitive military robot prototype who’s perpetually hungry for more “input”. He is the star of the 1980’s movies Short Circuit and Short Circuit 2 and a TV special called Hot Cars. He became sentient when he was luckily struck by lightning during a combat demonstration. Although he is designed to serve the military as a robot prototype, he has an adorable child-like behaviour and has a great respect for life. He is a peace-loving robot and refuses to use his military capabilities to harm others. Despite being very intelligent and inventive, his naivety and trusting nature has been taken advantaged of on several occasions. Design This model is fully motorised using Powered Up motors and hub and controlled through a mobile device using the Powered UP App. It uses Technic parts to ensure stability of the structure, and System parts to capture the look and form of Johnny 5. The following are the playable features of the model: Movement – This model can move around on tank tracks and uses skid steer to change directions. Body – Johnny 5’s body can tilt using a Powered Up L motor and controlled using a mobile. Arms – Arms can be raised and lowered individually using the Powered Up App. The fingers can be adjusted manually as well as the elbows. Head – The head can be tilted and turned using the Powered Up App. Eyebrows – Eyebrows can be manually adjusted to suit the desired facial expression. Laser – The laser at the back can be raised and lowered using the Powered Up App. Watch the YouTube video here to illustrate these functions better: Johnny 5 on Youtube Total Pieces: 2,711 Dimensions: Studs: W 68.4 x L 36.1 x H 73.5 Inch: W 21.5 x L 11.4 x H 23.2 cm: W 54.7 x L 28.9 x H 58.8 Weight: 99.8 ounces or 2.83 kg Johnny 5 MOC Pictures: 02 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr 03 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr 06 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr 05 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr 04 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr 07 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr 08 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr 09 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr 10 by RJ BrickBuilds, on Flickr
  15. This is an alternate build of the Lego Set 42100, Liebherr 9800. Parts list used in the MOC is listed so you can opt to just buy the required parts instead of buying set 42100.Motorized features include: Tank drive for both tracks Arms upward/downward movements Head turn Head tilt Body tilt Manual play features include: Upper and lower eye flaps can be moved to show facial expressions. Finger movements. Limited manual arm movements Here's a link to the YouTube video to showcase its movements: RJ's Johnny 5 YouTube Video If anybody is interested, building instructions are available at Rebrickable.
  16. Johnny 5 needs your support to become an OFFICIAL JOHNNY 5 LEGO SET. Click the link below to support and feel free to share. - Link Removed - Who is Johnny 5? Hello, Bozos! Those who don’t know him, Johnny 5, also known as “S-A-I-N-T Prototype Number 5” or Number 5 for short, is a very lively and inquisitive military robot prototype who’s perpetually hungry for more “input”. He is the star of the 1980’s movies Short Circuit and Short Circuit 2 and a TV special called Hot Cars. He became sentient when he was luckily struck by lightning during a combat demonstration. Although he is designed to serve the military as a robot prototype, he has an adorable child-like behaviour and has a great respect for life. He is a peace-loving robot and refuses to use his military capabilities to harm others. Despite being very intelligent and inventive, his naivety and trusting nature has been taken advantaged of on several occasions. Why Make a Johnny 5 Lego Set? In Short Circuit 2, Johnny 5 set up a new business with his old friend Ben Jahrvi that builds and sells toy robots made in Johnny 5's likeness. This little robot never made it into actual production after the film. Johnny 5’s popularity and the unavailability of access to these cute little Johnny 5 robots made people clamour for this toy. To date anyone can google sites for 3D printing Johnny 5 robots and websites dedicated to producing both life-like and miniature Johnny 5’s. Johnny 5 is one of the iconic fictional robots in cinema to date. He’s part of every child who’s lived through the 80’s like me who are now AFOLs and longed for the Johnny 5 toy that never came out. Design This model is fully motorised using Powered Up motors and hub and controlled through a mobile device using the Powered UP App. It uses Technic parts to ensure stability of the structure, and System parts to capture the look and form of Johnny 5. The following are the playable features of the model: Movement – This model can move around on tank tracks and uses skid steer to change directions. Body – Johnny 5’s body can tilt using a Powered Up L motor and controlled using a mobile. Arms – Arms can be raised and lowered individually using the Powered Up App. The fingers can be adjusted manually as well as the elbows. Head – The head can be tilted and turned using the Powered Up App. Eyebrows – Eyebrows can be manually adjusted to suit the desired facial expression. Laser – The laser at the back can be raised and lowered using the Powered Up App. Total Pieces: 2,711 Dimensions: Studs: W 68.4 x L 36.1 x H 73.5 Inch: W 21.5 x L 11.4 x H 23.2 cm: W 54.7 x L 28.9 x H 58.8 Weight: 99.8 ounces or 2.83 kg
  17. I'd like to present a new MOC of mine - Ferrari F355 Scale: 1:10 Size: 43L, 21W, 13H, cm Weight: 1429g Parts: 1410 Video: Features: - Opening doors, bonnet, trunk - Pop-up headlights - Independent suspension - Remote control with Power Functions - PF: 2L, Servo, IR, LiPo You can find the instruction on Rebrickable page: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-84040/paave/ferrari-f355/#details
  18. Hello all Technic fans, let me present you my tribute to the famous Mercedes-Benz G-Class iconic car series. As a relatively new member, I must introduce myself. My name is Igor, I'm from Russia. Adult Fan of Lego, but I usually do this hobby with my 12 year old daughter. In fact, I'm too lazy to upload my MOCs anywhere, but this time I finally decided to do it. As it turned out, creating an instruction also takes a lot of time and is not as fun process as it might seem at the beginning. My MOC is not really an original model. This amazing MOC by Artyom Gabbasov strongly inspired me to build my own MOD. For some reason, it looks like this MOC has not yet been presented here. Basically, what I built was a modification of it. I disfigured the hood with system and added a couple more motors. Here is a short video review so that you could form an opinion on the look and functions. Sorry for the video quality, I'm just an amateur with an old smartphone. A few words about the details... Body. Still, time goes on and it seemed to me that the old body was no longer cool, so the choice fell on the new body of 2018-2021. In addition, I decided that it would be a BRABUS tuning. In my opinion, the 2018 body looks really modern and I really like it. The body of the G-Class is square, so it won't be possible to work it out on this scale. Therefore, I focused on such details as the bumpers, the radiator grille, as well as the rear of the car. I especially wanted to make the new optics of the car recognizable, so it took me so many LEDs. The hood was conceived in the BRABUS style, but how successful it is for you to judge. Perhaps some of the parts in the MOC will be rare, but I wanted to make the body as black as possible, without blue dots from pins, etc. Interior. Here I tried to work it out as much as possible on this scale. Moreover, I wanted to keep the rear row of seats, so I managed to fit two BuWizzes in the trunk. Wheels. I used RC wheels in this model because they looked better and were more suitable for drifting. I'm sorry this is certainly not original Lego, but the choice of 62mm Lego wheels is not as huge as we would like. Functions. The car was originally designed for racing, drift and fun. But after thinking for a while, I decided that converting the MOC into a boring regular version shouldn't be too difficult. As the extra functions, in the end, I decided to make the front L-motors removable so that you could quickly change the main transmission ratio. And I also decided that the quick-release rear axle would fit too. So that during the game you can change it to a regular axle (with a differential). I also made two color variations of this car. I like blue even more, but some details in this color are even rarer (shock absorbers, e.g.) You can find higher resolution photos here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/193022960@N03/collections/72157719220016393 If you decide to repeat it, then a free instruction is available here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-77314/igor1/mercedes-g63-brabus-2021 Feel free to share your opinion about the MOC or ask something further about it. Thank you for your attention.
  19. Hey folks, another Motorization: all Functions of the 1989 Batmobile (LEGO 76139) RC controlled - yep the Batman again... Without sacrificing any of the nice details: Cockpit is still there, steering wheel works, just all motor driven and I motorized the guns and the roof and even made a tailored sbrick profile. Building instructions: Motorized LEGO 1989 Batmobile on rebrickable Driven by 2 LEGO Power Functions L-Motors (1:1 transmission) steered by a LEGO Power Functions Servo Motor guns engaged/disengaged by Motor roof opened/closed by Motor special Sbrick profile with programmig and grafics included a lot of space for up to 2 battery boxes/control hubs easily reachable under the trunk hatch (details on my rebrickable MOC page) Watch a Review of my motorized 1989 Batmobile on youtube: The Batmobile from Tim Burton's Batman 1989 with Michael Keaton is definitely one of the coolest, it's not as funky as the 1960s TV version and not as tank as the Nolan version but in my opinion it's simply a beaute! The 1989 Batmobile is using over 3,300 pieces, and over 60cm long. I added a few hundred bricks, mainly LEGO Technic and reused some others. So I ended up with over 3500 parts and (batteries included) almost 3.5 kg. That's heavy! So I needed a powerfull drive. I was thinking about the buggy motors but these are large and I wanted to put the batteries into the trunk. So i went for a pair of LEGO Power Functions L-Motors. These are some of the strongest LEGO motors and very small and efficient for their power and speed. The 1989 Batmobile is sleak and lies very deep on the road so it is geometrically impossible to move up any small hills (or even carpets). It will get stuck with its floor height of less then a brick. So it will only drive on a flat surface anyway. So it can be build for speed instead of torque power which the 1:1 transmission of the two L-Motors will do: It's a speed build, literally. One reason to put the batteries into the trunk was, to reach it easily for changing/recharging or simply switching on. Another reason was, to not put them into the beautifull cockpit with its nice self opening windshield - self opening? Yes, now it is motor driven ofcourse. And you hardly see the mechanics on the floor. Okay, the Batman minifigure included is way too small for the car but I found a Batman LEGO LED light, that fits into the car. Just be carefull when closing the cockpit to not get stuck. Slide-open is no problem. The car’s turbine exhaust by the way does not drive the machine guns anymore (it does in the original) because now a motor engages them. So I could make the jet exhaust it look like a real jet engine - the only exterior I changed. To make the two machine guns hidden, under the hood pop up, just press a button now. The Batmobile comes with nice little Bat emblems printed on the wheel rim - try not to lose them while driving, they are rare parts. The set of specially designed tyres for the front wheels is steered in a very specific geometry. I took care to keep that working the exact same way because it works very well for steering. The Build was complicated, took me weeks to get it right. I didnt want to change the exterior and as few as possible from the cockpit. You shouldnt see the opening mechanics. And I wanted to have all the features working, even the steering wheel (though steering is handled by a servo motor now) Every time I thought I got it, something else made problems, untill finally it all worked out. You can skip the trial and error (and breaking old LEGO gears) part: I made instructions and made them easily readable, so you can have it speed build in no time. I believe everyone should be able to build a LEGO set and try to make my instructions like that. Now it's hard to say, which one is the best batmobile motorization I ever made: The Lego 76139 1989 UCS Batmobile has more functions: motor driven MGs and a motor driven roof, the remote controlled motorized Lego 76023 UCS Tumbler I modded however has a full steerable front suspension for the independen wheels. my special Sbrick profile with some automated scripts is included I even made a cable layout for the power functions cables and extentions if you ended down here you may also be interested in or
  20. RC Rock crawler. Features AWD drive without differentials using 69730 "Large angular position motor"(As it has realy good torque), Steered by L-motor, and springless suspension (concept by superkoala). Lack of differentials gives nice off-road perfomance, but the crawler has big steering radius due to that.42114 C-model. You can buy instructions here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-81106/mic8per/42114-rock-crawler/#details Video:
  21. Hello, fellow Eurobrickers! I designed this 6x6 truck today as I challenge and I didn't think much about it but It turned out to be a success (in my eyes). I hope you guys like it. The design was inspired by a mix of old offroad 6x6 military trucks. I say it just needs to do the job and it doesn't need to look pretty while doing it. Here is a list of its features: 6x6 drivetrain springless suspension Modular design Remote control Powered by 2L motors Steering by 1M motor Removable tray (all sides can be dropped. Openable bonnet Openable doors 2 speed gearbox Hi-Low gear For more photos please go to our Bricksafe Page here Please go easy on the look it was built in one day, I would love some feedback. Happy Mocking CrazyKreations
  22. Hi everyone! I´m happy that I can present my newest creation! It´s the next piece of my minifig scaled RC collection. This time I decided to build a Flixbus. After Flixbus bought the rivalry Eurolines, it became maybe the cheapest way for poor students from Hungary (or not only from Hungary) to travel across Europe. At least for me it was the perfect method at that time! Hope you like it! Unfortunately the last time I travelled somewhere by a Flixbus was in August 2019. But hopefully it will change in the near future! Flixbus came often in the middle of the night, just as the Knight Bus did in Harry Potter. That´s why it stands on the destination screen Before you start reading about the boring technical facts and irritating things during the building period, please watch the video! It took approx 4 months long to build the bus. It´s not the first tiny RC I build. Despite of it I can´t say it didn´t challenge me. Yes, I´m speaking about the lettering and arrows on the sides. Maybe you still remember of the Milka Truck. That lettering has only vertical or horizontal building techniques. That´s why it was possible to do the lettering on each side only 1 stud deep. It was important, because it allowed to put the battery box (the biggest and most inflexible element) between the two walls and staying with the width in 6 studs at the same time. But “FLIXBUS” is more difficult. It is also not always possible to have stud connections (for example letter X, or the diagonal arrows). In this case the letters have to have inside some bigger parts on them, which simply doesn’t allow them to fall out. It means it stays only a two-stud wide space in the middle. That’s enough for the technic chassis, but not for the batteries. And also not for the motors… So only the half of the lengths stayed for the functional parts. For the steering and propulsion I stole the method from the Milka truck (with vertical motors), where they´ve already proven, that they work really well. The only possible (long enough) space for the battery box was at the back. Fortunately right above the driven wheels. They need the weight on them to increase the friction between the tires and the street. Another positive feature is, that the Sbrick is small enough to be above the letters, so I didn´t have to make the whole bus longer. Another part of the challenge was to create the diagonal white lines on the front. There was almost nothing inside, which they could be attached to. The reason is, that the moving parts of the steering are there, so it´s simply impossible to put there any other parts without disablement of the steering. Other reason is, that the upside-down parts of the front have already used the space there. At the end I decided to use the rubber bands, without being irritated by the fact, that it´s possible to see them outside, too. The bus has three axles. The third one is again an axle with some kind of fake suspension. It is just hanging there and doesn´t hold anything, so in theory it can never happen, that the driven wheels leave the ground. Please notice the detail that there are brackets instead of plates on the top of the third mudguards. It creates a bit bigger space in the mudguard for the wheels with the fake suspension. It means, that the bus can win against bigger obstructions. All in all I really enjoyed working on the bus. Hope you like the result, too! Thanks for watching and reading! Feel free to visit my Photostream on Flickr, to see some of my other creations: https://www.flickr.com/photos/gabor_horvath/
  23. Ahoy, seamates! I have started my LEGO-Ideas Project 2-3 months ago and now I want to present it to the specific lego pirates community! Would be nice to get your suppport but even more I am looking for some advice what I can improve on it. SUPPORT NOW Please take a look on the ideas website or at my flickr https://flic.kr/s/aHsmMnLn6a for more fotos! Here is the text from ideas: Welcome on board of The Rolling Dutchman! Since I have been a child I always wanted to control my LEGO Red Beard Runner without pushing it around and now my dream has come true. I have build a motorized Version of the famous Flying Dutchman which is my favorite pirate ship, too. I have seen the original swedish Vasa which has given the idea for the Dutchman with its marvelous bow and stern. So I managed to combine them with my own creative ideas into this "rolling" Dutchman! Please have a look at the features in the video and the pictures! Video: Update 2: Thanks for your 1k supports so far! I have worked on the main picture a bit and now added a picture of the crew and one showing the functions as well. Update 1: New rotten Sails! (Picture 7+8+Video still with the first sails) Motorized Features: Rolling movement caused by waves (1. M-Motor) Two motorized triple-barrelled chasers in the bow (1. M-Motor) Motorized steering with simoultaneously rotating ship´s wheel, rudder and steering mechanism (S-Motor) Motorized movement for- and backward (L-Motor) Motorized sail trim with turning capstan and changing sail position of all square sails (M-Motor) All features can be controlled by rc-control via 4 channels and two receivers All features use the Power-Function System but could easily be adapted to the new Control+ System which can lead to advanced handling of the functions The battery box can slide out easily to switch on/off and change batteries General Features: Minifigures: Davy Jones, Jack Sparrow, Elizabeth, Bill Turner, Barbossa and more. (I am not familiar with the movies in english so I would like to ask you to tell me the names in the comments section!) Two decks with cannons (one side the lower deck is closed to store the motors) The two tripple-barreld chasers can manually slide backwards and then the gun ports can be closed Removable deck at the stern to take out the steering wheel Removable lower balcony´s on both sides Handmade sails Two functional anchors Upper cabin minifigure size with Jack stealing the heart (illuminated) Lower cabin with Davy Jones organ (illuminated) Two torches at the stern (illuminated) The capstan can be removed The ship is based on the sturdy hull parts, the complete 2 lower rows of bricks can be removed with the steering and driving wheels to use it as "normal" push forward ship or display model The main mast and the mizzen are both slightly tilted backwards Correct rigging and sails due to the movies The ropes between the masts can be removed easily to take them apart for transport It would be an honor to receive your support. Aye! I have to thank my friend J-H to help me with some motorization problems and a special thanks to my girlfriend for not freaking out! Thanks, yours Störtebricker from Hamburg, Germany SUPPORT NOW
  24. Here's my replication of the classic Range Rover 3 door Info: Scale: 1:13 Size: L35, W15, H16, cm Weight: 1069g Parts: 1085. Video: Features: - 4x4 - Dependent suspension - Panhard rods on both axles - Opening doors, bonnet, tailgate - Adjustable seats - Modular construction - Remote control with PF: 2L, Servo, IR, LiPo. Original truck: Building Instruction can be found on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-79523/paave/range-rover-classic/#details
  25. Hello everyone, let me introduce my latest MOC – Mammoet PTC-200-DS Ring Crane made of Lego Technic! This particular model attracted me for a long time, but since I saw it on YT installing the highest wheel in the world at UAE, I decided to investigate it’s building.So I started from calculating it’s scale and number of wheels required. Railway ring set up crane’s scale. Then I decided to make 4 ¼ carriers with two 1/8 halves inside, each on 4 train wheels. So, all in all I required 32 train wheels. So, I started to look for them on BL.Building started from these 1/8 carriers. I wanted each wheel to be driven to spread the torque all over the chassis. So each ¼ carrier is driven by L motor. Totally 4 L motors rotate 32 wheels for crane rotation :)Then I started to build main superstructure (half). Build two similar halves and connect them. Then installed winches, counterweight box and booms. There is not too much information about this crane in the network, so my build is based on some youtube videos and browsed images of the crane. I would not able to get any info from the company directly. So the crane may have some differences from the real model. And for some reason I can't say this is a scale model. For examble real crane has two rings with 64 wheels on each. Obviously, I can't build a model on 128 train wheels - this sclae is simply out of my budget.I was dreaming of a crane which would be able to lift up to 1 kilo. Luckily, this crane one can easily uplift even 1,5 Kg 😊Crane is powered by classic PF elements: 4 L motors for drive + steering rotation, 4 XL Motors for 7 winches. I recommend using 4 BBBoxes as a counterweight. Although only one is connected and needs to be charged. It would be simple to switch crane management to SBricks or Buwizzes (as there are five separate functions, you’ll require 2 sbricks or two buwizzes). Installing PU system instead of PF may become a challenge, especially for carriers. If you have only one battery box - this is not bad, crane is stable even with one battery box as a counterweight, but, obviously, it can't lift a lot or make a horizontal poisition. Crane is 210 cm high in the current configuration at it's highest position. Can lift 1500 gramms or maybe even 2000, but I didn't give it a try to save parts from stress. Fully RC with 5 channels with 3 IR receivers. Can be layed horizontally and back to working position without human help. More images Ah, building instructions are already complete and ready: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-77733/OleJka/mammoet-ptc-200-ds-ring-crane/#details