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Found 390 results

  1. Hi there as nobody else yet presented a PF mod of the 42109 car (@ozacek?), I gave it a try yesterday afternoon/evening and did a quick & dirty PF mod. The result is a replica that's not totally identical in all details but comes very close to the original from the outside with considerable changes on the chassis. Differences: * Very obvious, the colors, but that was not important for the intended task. Initially I wanted to build it in red and black, but soon switched to orange and black and later just ignored the colors to save time when searching the needed parts - I have two many models built ATM and hence am low on some essential parts in the initially desired colors. The upcoming digital model(s) will use (a) more pleasing color combination(s). * The beam connecting both sides of the cockpit was moved 1 stud forward and was constructed differently to hold the PF AA battery box in place * As I couldn't find a position for the PF Servo motor that is low enough that the hood can be closed as much as in the original 42109, I used a 1 x 9 bent liftarm to fix the hood at an elevated position, imitating the look of a huge hood scoop. This way the hood is kept shut very tightly btw. * I used curved 11 x 3 panels with 2 pin holes for the side skirts, as I find them visually more pleasing then what was used in the original 42109. * The chassis is somewhat different: Instead of 11 x 7 frames I used 7 x 5 frames as I don't have 11 x 7 frames yet; 8L axles with stop for each rear wheel - so the axles can't be pulled out, but the wheels can still get loose, though I haven't seen this yet during driving and some other minor differences. The car doesn't use a differential but drives each rear wheel with a single PF L motor. Power Functions parts used: * 2 x PF L motor * 1 x PF Servo motor * 1 x PF IR V2 receiver - optional (not needed with BuWizz) * 1 x PF IR remote control - optional (not needed with BuWizz) * 1 x PF AA battery box - optional (not needed with BuWizz) [* 1 x PF control switch - actually not really needed, if the drive lines are set up in a way that both PF L motors can run in the same direction (not needed with BuWizz)] I.e. the PF equipment that came with the 9398 - not that I have one. Enough talking/writing, here are three shots, digital model(s) will come later: Using a BuWizz instead of the PF remote control equipment saves a lot of space and weight and will make this car faster. So far I haven't used it with fresh AA batteries but only with used AA batteries and a BuWizz and even in normal mode the car seems to be quicker, not to speak of fast and ludicrous modes, where the wheels start slipping on carpet and laminate floor when going backwards at full speed in fast mode or both ways at full speed in ludicrous mode.
  2. johnnym

    [MOC] RC Buggy

    Hi there, I'd like to present a MOC I've been working on from time to time since a few months: It's a small RC buggy, something I'm missing from Lego. Pictures show the V2 model. An interactive 360° view of the V1 model (with different rear axle) is available here: Steering: PF Servo motor Propulsion: PF L motor (geared up 28z => 20z => 12z which is good enough to drive on office carpet and short distances on thicker carpets with fresh batteries, it works great on smooth surfaces; 36z => 12z => 12z also works, but requires more power and works best on a smooth surface; RWD) I initially used it with a AAA battery box and V2 IR receiver (not shown in the V2 pictures above, where it will be fixed to the rear spoiler, the V1 model had it at a slightly different location), but the AA battery box also fits - though it looks not as good due to different mount points, and it will also be heavier then. I assume it will also work with the LiPo box and SBrick and I can - since a few weeks - confirm that it also works with a BuWizz, but then it's more something for outdoor areas, as it gets pretty quick in fast and ludicrous modes. I created the main chassis of the V1 model of this buggy during a long evening/night and added most of the body parts the following day or days, don't remember exactly. The stickers are from the 8048 set and IMO fit the buggy theme great. Steering is also from 8048. It's fun to drive around and it can also take some hits. I took inspiration (mainly for the rear shock mounting and general setup) and motivation (I wanted to have something about as small as this) mainly from this video on YT: ...and some other videos about small RC buggies. The creator's buggy itself is also roughly based on the MOC (video and instructions for V1 model) of someone else. Instead of (re)building this one, I created my own - also because I didn't have a Buggy motor at that time. I also created a V3 model. It's slightly bigger, has front lights (using PF LEDs) and uses bigger wheels but shows some deficiencies of the design: The rear axle tends to tear itself apart in this model on rough surfaces, making the gears slip. I assume this is due to the bigger wheels used in the V3 model. I use some additional axles with stop and bushes now to hold the rear axle together for a longer time. I assume this maybe could be fixed by using a frame around the two axle holes that shouldn't move apart. When doing tight turns the V3 also lifts one of the front wheels - the one on the same side as the gear that sits on the drive axle. If someone has a good explanation for this, I'd be grateful. I suspect the softer shocks compared to V2.
  3. Now for something completely different: A Spyder from the future - the Turbo Racer's AMC Ultra - and its opponent - the Police Interceptor MM Falcon PS (both based on @rm8's chassis for his AWD prototype) Now you can play Outrun - but for real! UPDATE: This series of RC cars will get updated in the future with new additions.
  4. I need some help with my buggy. I can’t figure out how to get Ackermann geometry on my front steering unit and previous steering systems were either too large or unusable. I have been heavily inspired by didumos’s greyhound 4wd rc buggy. photos on bricksafe:
  5. Hello everyone, my name is NABLACK and this is my first post. This Porsche Tiger tank is from an anime called Girls und Panzer. It's mostly a normal Porsche Tiger but with a function to boost the performance. And to achieve that "boosted performance" in my Lego Porsche Tiger, I stupidly put 12 PF L motors into it. I got a lot of inspiration from Sariel's Tiger XL and Tommy Styrvoky's Tiger (P), and a lot of thanks and respect to them. Maybe there's too much Tiger tanks around there, but since I was planning to achieve a different feature, I think it would be fine to have another. Hope you will enjoy this. Specifiction: Scale: 1/18 Weight: 2.57kg (5.67lbs) Length(without barrel): 37.5cm (14.8in) Width: 19cm (7.5in) Height: 17cm (6.7in) Suspension: Oscillationg Bogies Power Source: Buwizz 2.0 x3 Propulsion: PF L motor x12 Gear Ratio: 1:1.667 Top Speed: 5km/h (3.1Mi/h) Other Electronic Parts: PF M motor x1 for turret rotation; PF M motor x1 for gun tilting; a pair of LED light Parts that's not original Lego: Buwizz 2.0 x3; Stainless steel axle x10; Stickers _DSC9262 by NABLACKS, on Flickr _DSC9265 by NABLACKS, on Flickr _DSC9283 by NABLACKS, on Flickr _DSC9290 by NABLACKS, on Flickr _DSC9282 by NABLACKS, on Flickr _DSC9297 by NABLACKS, on Flickr _DSC9301 by NABLACKS, on Flickr _DSC9302 by NABLACKS, on Flickr _DSC9449 by NABLACKS, on Flickr _DSC9479 by NABLACKS, on Flickr Visit flickr for more photos
  6. Jan-'17 Now, building instruction file (PDF) is available at Rebrickable linked below ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi.. everyone! This my 2nd posting here, introducing my own renovation(or remodeling) of TECHNIC 42056 PORSCHE 911 GT3 RS. Among the newly released 2016 Lego models, "TECHNIC 42056 PORSCHE 911 GT3 RS" received the best attention before release. In addition to its nice and detailed appearance, now I attempt to review the process of blowing features including RC driving and 4-speed gearbox shifting, and LED lights as well. The video above shows the process of remodeling TECHNIC 42056 PORSCHE 911 GT3 RS and a driving test in the following order. The process of remodeling each part of PORSCHE chassis Driving and steering test of the remodeled PORSCHE chassis The process of binding the renovated chassis to the PORSCHE body Field driving test The main target of this RC remodeling is just a chassis (or power-train) that is composed of front/rear axis, power transmission and steering units. The following figure compares the before and after appearance of the renovated PORSCHE chassis. <Before> <After> The changes and features of the renovated PORSCHE chassis are as follows Mounted drive motors (L-motor x 4) Mounted a steering motor (S-motor x 1) Modified gear shifting method not using the paddle shift remodeling of the 4-speed sequential gearbox for enhanced durability and power transmission efficiency Mounted PF battery (optionally, two batteries) Mounted two SBRICKs for the remote control capability While including all of the above modifications, it maintains the design and major features of the original 42056 model. (rear fake engine room, Hand of God, glove box, toolbox under the hood etc.) This review is divided into a total of 9 sections, and the following videos illustrate the building progress of each section, respectively. part 1: chassis frame remodeling In this section, the main contents of RC motorizing 42056 PORSCHE chassis is largely divided into three sub-parts and will be described as follows . 1) reinforcement of chassis regidity A dictionary meaning of chassis frame is defined as "the frame plus the "running gear" like engine, transmission, drive shaft, differential, and suspension" In the original 42056 model implementing the real PORSCHE 911 GT3 RS in LEGO model, a chassis is composed to support the body, transmissions, front and rear axis, engine etc. By the way, LEGO designers did not consider the RC driving from the stage of planning the TECHNIC 42056 model. Thus the chassis regidity, weakened by adding driving & steering motors, gear-shifting motors and battery boxes, cannot maintain the body shape of its own secure and inhibits the stable driving performance. In order to reinforce the chassis regidity that is more weakened by removing liftarms to mount 4 driving L-motors under the gear-box, 42056 chassis core is newly configured using a total of thress TECHNIC 5x11 liftarms. 2) provision of driving motor mounting space 4 driving L-motors are mounted under the gear box between the driver and front passenger. 3) provision of gear-shifting axle mounting space In the original 42056 model, The transmission and drive shaft axis are designed in the form perpendicular to each other. According to this design, gear shifting can be done accurately, smoothly and sequentially from 1st speed to 4th speed. However in the driving test progress, it turned out that thress 24-toothed bevel gears in driving pathways can not deliver high torque & power to the rear axle and differential gears. Thus, to remove three bevel gears in the pathway of the remodeled 42056 chassis, gear shifting axle is heightened by 3L and driving shaft is connected right to the 4-speed transmissions. part 2: 4-speed sequential gearbox remodeling part 3: control units for the RC gear shifting part 4: driving motors mounting part 5: dashboard remodeling part 6: front/rear axis remodeling part 7: rear engine room remodeling part 8: assembly process of the renovated PORSCHE chassis part 9: binding the renovated chassis to the body of PORSCHE These are all I prepared for the review of the motorized 42056 PORSCHE model. Thanks for reading & watching (-;
  7. Technic General Discussion Welcome to the Technic General Discussion topic. Here you can post small questions or comments about Lego Technic which don't need a topic of their own. This way we will keep the number of topics limited. Examples Has anyone built vehicle x? Where can I find this or that? I missed this set on eBay...darn!
  8. It's official: what we've been doing for the last half of year together with LEGO was turning a real-life Liebherr R 9800 into an RC model. And guess who drove it :D More video content will follow soon! My behind-the-scenes video: And finally, here's a brief behind-the-scenes video from LEGO:
  9. Hi everyone, It's been a long time since I haven't posted on this forum, but today I would like to share a new project that I have started not so long ago. It's a Subaru Impreza WRX STI car that I will make. The list of what I will put in the car is the following : Awd Boxer 4 engine McPherson suspension for the front wheels Indépendant double whisbone for the rear wheels Lockable central differential 5 speed sequential gearbox I searched a bit for 5-speed sequential gearbox but I didn't found any. So I took a 4-speed gearbox design by @Rage_Hobbit (found there) and I added a 5th speed. Here is the result : You can download the .lfx. Note that you are supposed to place rubber band linking the orange pieces to the black one under the blue triangle. I have already made the boxer engine and most of the chassis. It will use these wheels : It's the one that are used in 42077 rally car. However I ran in a problem, it seems that the gearbox can not support the force involved in the transmission. The gears do a lot of skipping noises (doesn't sound healthy for the pieces). So I wanted to know if anyone knew a reliable 5-speed sequential gearbox / a 5+r sequential gearbox. That's it for today. More updates coming soon.
  10. Well the teardown of my Koenigsegg Regera is done, instructions are being tested and video is released. Huge thanks to my brother Lachlan Cameron for your amazing teardown photos and killer video edit. Thanks to Justin Wong for being the Guinea pig for the build and your patch notes along the way. Hey all, soo it's been a very long while since I've posted anything. Probably over two years now, however I have been busy in my spare time. For over two years now I've been working on the Koenigsegg Regera. By far my most challenging build to date, especially considering I've been working on Both and HOG and an RC at the same time. The HOG will be Dark Azure/Black centre with White accents and interior. So may I present to you the Regera, it's still a work in progress but everything is pretty well there. It's missing seats, stickers and a few things need adjusting but for the most part it's all there. This car will be on display at the Bricks in the Six Lego convention this weekend so I thought I'd share some early pictures before ones get taken and shared from the show. As always there will be a Video and instructions to follow. But first I need to get the HOG model finished as well. Either way here's some pictures a list of functions. The drivetrain is simple, on the RC it's just drive and steer, no gearbox as the real car is direct drive. 4 L motors for drive and one servo for steering, with a fake V8 in the back, the suspension is where it starts to get interesting, the rear is triplex suspension, unequal length control arms, with integrated sway bar like the real thing, the front is also unequal length suspension, cantalievered with torsion bar and sway bar, the front also raises and lowers a stud and when raising up flaps under the front valance deploy and tuck back up when the car lowers back down. The interior the seats slide and recline, the steering moves up and down in the centre console there's a lever which is a brand new concept which allows you to switch between opening, the left door, the right door, or both doors at the same time. Now when you're opening those doors which are Synchro dihedral the mirrors will fold in as the doors open out and upwards just like the real car. The front and rear clam shells will open as well and there's a lever in the back which will allow you to open the front, the back or both at the same time. On the rear clamshell is the rear wing which is on a cam that raises upward and outward and raises out of the back. The roof is removable like the real car, and can store underneath the front clamshell while still leaving enough room for a tote bag. There's also a manual and an RC model the manual model has two gears the dash the first is to open the doors, and the other to steer. The RC model has drive and steering that's hooked up to the fake V8, the doors and the clam shells are also motorized being able to switch between the front and rear or both at the same time. It also has LED lights front and rear. So overall this is a very in-depth detailed and accurate model in sense of functions.
  11. Chade

    A Team Van

    Hi again, Not too much to say about this one. I wanted to build an A Team Van, so I did. Features - 1x L motor at 1:67 - 1x Servo - 1x M Motor for side door - 1x M Motor for back doors - functional doors & hood - battery access under van - working front lights - 42Lx17Wx16H (chassis, in studs) - 1242g Any comments are appreciated. Thanks
  12. This model balances on two wheels and the driver leans to tip the bike over to steer.
  13. Porsche96

    Volvo H9X

    Volvo H9X Specification of the excavator Length 60s / width 31s / height 20s (47/24,5/16 cm) - without excavator arm Max dimensions of excavator arm: 60x35 cm(length x width) Weight: 3637 g Front suspension: none Rear suspension: none AWD Steered both axles Power - 2x 8878 BB 3x M 4xL 2x XL 3x Servo Specification of the trailer Length 55s / width 25s / height 17s (44/20/13,5 cm) Weight: 1398 g Power: 1x 8881 BB 1x XL Functions Driving - 2x XL Steering - M Gearbox - M Lifting the blade - M Excavator rotation - L Movement of the arm - 3L + 3 Servos Lifting the trailer's tipping bed - XL Today, I want to present wheeled excavator Volvo H9X with trailer. Model was built for Lego contest „Build the construction machines of the future”. Later it received many improvements… In short: it is wheeled excavator without operator’s cabin. I didn’t pattern the model on any real machine. As a scale I took Claas’s wheels. For driving there are two XL motors, which drive the 4 wheels, through two-speed gearbox. First gear ratio is 5:1, and second 1,8:1. The gears are changed by M motor and two 1x7 racks. Both axles are steered by M motor with gear ratio 3:1. In the front there are blade, driven by another M motor. In the upper part of the excavator there are three comperssors for three pnematic functions. First, which drives the four big pnematic cylinders, consists of L motor and two pnematic pumps. Next two compressors are the same (L motor + one pump) and they drive the pneumatic cylinders for moving second section of the arm and the bucket. The valves are steered by three Servos. For excavator rotation I used L motor with gear ratio 155:1. In the front there are double Led lights, powered by a switch. The trailer is a simple liftarm construction. The bed is tipped by one linear actuator driven by XL motor. It is powered by switch, because of lack of free channels on the IR receivers. Gallery
  14. This is my very first MOC of a semi-tractor mini chassis. This RC chassis took two months of intense testing and it just 94 pieces (including PF devices) to create the best mini chassis and its mostly a simple design. This chassis will host to many of my future projects and I also created a couple of youtube videos to show off its performance and durability. Version 2.0 chassis includes center differential and suspension. This chassis it includes the following, 1/10 scale Chassis is just 94 pieces with a to create a no gear slip no tire slip thought in my design. very strong frame and durability Its very modular and basic form is 1 frame = 2 halves so both axles will have the same suspension, drive, steering, etc, etc . (I experimented with all types axles and color) (ver 2.0 120 pieces) RC build in mind (it can be used with lego's, sbrick, buwizz and lepin or even a custom rc controller) 67.8 x 34r balloon tires (Balloon tires have the best traction for all types of surfaces like sand,rocks, asphalt and excel on smooth shiny surfaces) 1 lx motor and 1 servo (you can add more motor) 2 way reverse Ackermann Steering (can be upgraded to 4 way) AWD Dual Gear drive train with 1:1.66 output with all time positraction (to reduce gear slippage) Simple suspension (1 l travel and very stiff) (ver 2.0 2 link suspension per axle 3 l travel) Fake disc brakes Fake engine (optional) Center differential (ver 2.0 only) Short wheel base with excellent handling Off road and street car capabilities built into the chassis I have included some pics and videos and will add more. it still a work in progress!! My first video is to show the performance and handling and the second video is a 5 minute off road test to show its durability and to show that I can build a reliable RC chassis. 2.0 version 2.0 version side view Version 1.7 this video is to show performance and handling this 5 min video is to show durability and I can build a kick butt RC chassis !! And yes both videos are the same chassis!! Please add your comments and if you have any question, please feel free to ask about my MOC. This chassis was a really interesting project and discovered a few things about Lego's color of their beams and lift arms. I did a search on this forum about color and weight and none has came up so I guess ill be the first to post this.. I discovered that not all beams and lift arms weigh the same.. Same with pins and axles. I know there are friction and friction less axles and connectors but what I discovered beams and lift arms also weight differently, For example: This dark gray weighs 1.726 grams and Red of the same shape weighs 1.68 grams!!! That is a difference 0.114 grams!! yes that small but with 94 pieces it can add weight , The more I use the red Lego bricks colors, the more lighter the model !!! I have weigh a lot of different parts and color but I don't have all colors and shapes. So far the red color bricks are the lightest in my collections and that means using red bricks will adds more performance !!!! yes you can pat me on my back for this discovery!!
  15. RC Off-roader with Dual Diagonal Drive I think I'm onto something that will get me through the winter. Summary Dual diagonal drive means: 1) dividing torque over two separate drive trains while 2) preserving the advantage of having open differentials when cornering and 3) passing diagonal tests without using differential locks. Background I have been playing with this idea for a while already, especially after seeing @KevinMoo's dual drive models (Mitsubishi Pajero and Dual-Driveshaft Pickup). @KevinMoo rightfully addressed the vulnerability of LEGO parts in RC models and the fact that using independent drive trains for the left and right sides, loses the benefit of differentials while cornering. This got me thinking. Using independent drive trains for left and right in a 4WD model does indeed drop the benefit of differentials while cornering, but what if we would pair the wheels diagonally, so pair the left front (LF) wheel with the right rear (RR) wheel, and pair the right front (RF) wheel with the left rear (LR) wheel? The resulting 'dual diagonal drive' (I borrowed the term from the electric skateboard scene) would serve two major benefits: While cornering, the LF and RR wheels will average to a speed that is very close to the average speed of the RF and LR wheels. So not having an open distribution by means of a differential between the two drive trains is much less of a problem as with separate drive trains for the left and right side wheels. On a very uneven surface, where one or two wheels may lose contact with the ground, the wheels that do have contact are typically lined up diagonally, see image. With dual diagonal drive, the vehicle would still have traction, even without locking any differentials. Only on slippery surfaces, there are chances of spinning wheels. So this is what I'm thinking of. We start with the basic dual diagonal drive setup: Two separate drive trains, one for the LF and RR wheels and one for the RF and LR wheels. The drive trains cross using two 24t gears and an auxiliary 16t gear that sits right underneath the auxiliary axle for the other drive train. So no clutch gears are involved in this crossing. I inserted a 1L Technic liftarm inside each differential - idea from @Madoca 1977's Toyota Land Cruiser 80 - to prevent the bevel gears from popping out. Next we add a manual locking feature, which closes the differentials with a single lever. This locking feature will force each pair of wheels involved in one of the drive trains to have equal speed. Now we connect each XL-motor to one of the differentials, using a small 4-speed gearbox. That means; two separate 4-speed gearboxes. This may be a bit ambitious, we'll have to see in real-life whether this is feasible or not. I might fall back to two 2-speed gearboxes. I did pay attention to the amount of torque in the transmission though. I geared up the XL-motor outputs and geared down the transmission output. That makes the transmission spin faster with less torque. The gearboxes are operated synchronously using a 90-degree stepper, which is controlled by a Servo-motor. Each gear shift axle has its own 90-degree limiter. And finally the outputs of the XL-motors are transferred to a fake V8-engine via a normal differential. The sole purpose of this differential is to combine the XL-motor outputs for the fake engine. For the steering I'm thinking of using a servo motor. I don't really like the directness of steering with a servo-motor, but the steering link attachment points are moved one stud backwards, which confines the steering angle. This adds to better handling and protects the CV-joints in the wheel hubs. I don't know where this is going to end. I'm not even sure about the exact kind of car I will be targeting, but it sure needs to be some kind of all-rounder. Comments and suggestions are welcome.
  16. Hogwartus

    [MOC] RC Buggy

    After 42099 and the whole new PU system, I'm here with a MOC that uses something a bit older - RC system. After all these years it is still the most powerful 100% LEGO solution. Watch it in all its glory: Features: RC drive - 2x RC motor, geared 3:1 (slower output) RC steering Front suspension - double wishbone, soft, long travel, positive caster angle, 7 stud ground clearance Rear suspension - floating axle, soft, long travel, 5.5 stud ground clearance Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. I hope you liked this model.
  17. Hi there, I've developed a very annoying habit in the last few years. I randomly build pickups and other 4x4's. Even bought a real one. Anyway, the latest one is quite a biggy (sizewise) thanks to the planetary hubs. I've found a trick build them into solid axles with a practical ground clearance. This trick is going to be conroversial here. But start up with the video instead: All pics to be found here: In the comments under the video, noble members of our community noted, that there are parts which could solve the 1/4 stud misery. (if you don't know what is that, off you go, and whatch the video to the end! ) One of these is the 14t gear from the old diffs: I've made the attempt, but due to that collar on the bottom (top on the pic) it is too wide and puts srain on the drivline, making it hard to turn it by hand, so it is off the table unfortunatelly. So I speak for myself when I say, cuting those axles worth it. Not a rare piece, and costs 1 cent on bricklink, but only because there is no smaller value in the currency itself. In return the design prooved itself very reliable. Another "weakness" of the axle is the inperfect geometry. The wheelhubs aren't completelly vertical. There is about 1 degree tilting inside on the top. /---\ Before overdramatising this atribute, think, if you've noticed it in the video? Apart from the axles, the rest of the truck is the product of those years I've mentioned above. The essence of it is a simplest possible drivetrain: And a steering solution refined for non-rack steering: (The render is made of an older version, hence the different connector) If you don't belive your eyes, yes I choose to use 4x2 beams to form steering arms. It looks savage, but it is doing the job very well, brings ackerman geometry in the game. It does not hold the wheels rock solid of course, but in practicality it isn't noticable on the field. I've got a rack steering solution as well, but that brings the servo down A, onto the front axle (I don't do that. Ever ) B, into the mid chassis, where I don't have room for that. So we keep that for another build. Also has a working steering wheel using the rear output from the servo. ame old bevel system I've been using in most of my builds. Check the 1st episode of the pickup saga for more on that. Suspension Solid axles on a 3 link setup. It is kinda made up design, slightly inspired by the rear suspension of my Isuzu Trooper. Changing the shocks, or their hinge point on the top, gives 3 different ride height and suspension stiffness. The black, soft springs give a softer, relaxed, lower stance to it, while the dark grey shocks (known from the set 8880) are lifting the truck to a practical maximum, but still can reach full articulation. Not in all situations good to have your truck up in the sky. Like the climbing in the video. With low shock setting it made 52 degrees, but 47 "only" on big wheels and lifted shocks. The center of gravity moves with your ground clearance. That's about it, the rest is smoke-screen, like the body, and fancy doors. Oh, here is a fun fact: When it came to the seats, I realised I have 2 adjustable seats salvaged from a lorry build from about 5 years ago. Luckily they fit perfect so just made a rear bench in the same style. A non adjustable lazy style. Please feel free to ask about it, or just say something about cutting axles. I hope you find something useful here to take home with you.
  18. This is my attempt at building a proper and most importantly; fun to drive ripsaw with somewhat realistic performance. The 8 buggy motors and 4 BuWizz seem to do the trick.. I tried to replicate as much as i could from the original design, obviously the drive-train works differently; the real EV1 has 1 motor with a clutch system in the rear differential to power the tracks from the rear alone, which i did try to replicate by adding the fake V8 and rear diff, which does function, but i disconnect it most of the time while drive outside because it has a habit of getting jammed by leaves, rocks and twigs, the gears used to connect to the fake V8 are all exposed. Here the sprockets are powered in the front and rear and each is connected directly to the slower output of 2 buggy motors, giving this thing crazy speed and torque. The suspension is set up like the real EV1 and works fine, but does require a track tension system, the real thing has a suspended front sprocket to keep tension on the tracks, in this case it would mean loosely suspended buggy motors, an idea i did not like and did not try, yet. I am using a simple lever, spring and wheels to keep tension on the track but it works fine and looks ok. For the body i tried to capture the look and feel of the real thing, using as little as possible panels and using beams for the boxy look with just the exposed framework seemed the right thing to do, i am sure it is filled with illegal connections, i go by the rule: "if it fits without force, it fits". The body is surprisingly solid, it can be lifted from several positions and it can take some abuse from driving, and abused it, i have.. The are 2 seat for Technic figures and the electrical wiring functions nicely as a seat-belt for them. I have added 2 sets of LED's on the top bar, i do not think the real EV1 had that, but it seemed the most "natural" position to me and it works nicely since they are aimed down a bit. And here you can see it in action! please leave a like if you can and help out my tiny channel: I hope you like it!
  19. Good people of Eurobricks, let me give you my first take on the planetary hubs: Please excuse me for the lenght of the video, it's meant to show the developement stage by stage. I had big expectations towards the new hubs, since they've been announced. I realised, these hubs will solve the problem of the stress on drivetrains, yet will raise a new challenge. Due to the increased torque on the wheels, the frame (chassis) and the bracing of the suspension will be the new weak link. A wanted to have a finalized rig to the date of the release of the hubs. The backbone of the design came from a five years old chassis concept, it was a non motorized chassis: To mimic the geometry of the new hub, I've used the old ones with some extension, so it can be easily swapped, when time comes: The concept of the chassis came together quite well, thanks to using techniques well practiced in my early years. But there was still a long time till the release of the new hubs. Driven by curiosity, I've planted two PF XL motors in the middle of the chassis, making them drive two axles each. One for the front axles, one for the rear ones. No additional gearing has been added, the motors were connected straight to the differentials. Of course it had to be tested, hat's the part around one minute into the video: Came with a surprisingly satisfying result, despite the usage of the old cv's and hubs, yet it was understandably far from being a "crawler" it meant to be. Also at this point I was short of claas tyres, so I've used some similar size rc tyres on the front 4. Got the tyres eventually, still a lot of time till the hubs coming though. As the final design was gonna use 4 buggy motors, time came to make the change: Same principals, like with the XL motors: No gearing added (slow output used), 2 motors drive the front, other 2 for the rear axles. Now feeding that much buggy motors would require 4 buwizzes. Or one well sized rc lipo that can comfortably supply 2 sbricks. 4 buwizzes cost about 400-450 pounds, while the lipo comes for 30 pounds. Any question? At this stage (still no new hubs) it was an obvious, yet pretty crazy idea to hit the tarmac. So I did. That's what you see at 2:16 in the video: I had a lot of trouble that day with the bluetooth connection, brought a head on crash int o a container. It was heart-, but no plastic breaking. Finally the hubs came by the post and the picture got full. I've also planted another servo for steering (2 in total now) Indoor durability test at 3:27 Climbing test (60 degrees) at 4:18 Hereby I apologize for the dark enviroment at this recording Peek on the suspension at 3:12 Lego should not be used outdoors... ahm, okay... Outdoor test from 4:55 in the video. I came to the verdict, that the new hubs worth their money. In a usage that abusive, you see in the video the hub-cv connection definitelly require some lubrication. I've been using silicone oil and no downside appeared so far. Here is the difference it makes: That's it so far, a little spoiler at the end of the video. Hope it's gonna catch some expert eyes...
  20. Welp, back onto 1/15 scale Made this little thingy in about 12 hours after Madoca's small supercar popped up in my YT recommended. BRICKSHELF (whenever uploaded) As with my Mini Nitro Menace, this year's Corvette wheelbase was taken as a base - should be compatible with the transporter truck - and so the build began. Of course, drive&steering has been done a million times already so this needed a cherry on top - the roof was what I was looking for. Making a chassis was dead easy with the slim wheels and by motorising each rear wheel independently, the need for a differential was eliminated. Thanks to the placement of the BuWizz in between the rear wheels, steering and roof motors could now populate the central tunnel and be hidden under the black 3x11 curved panels giving the interior a "cleaner" look. Now, bodywork ain't my strongest point, but I wanted it to be ferrari RED. This meant working with a very small inventory (for me) most of which you can see on the car Of course ricer butterfly doors were made to make it look cooler than it is. Have a nice weekend, Cya)
  21. Good Day. Got inspired to build this after an in-game motorcycle from Honkai impact 3rd Original idea was to use 2x XL motors, but it was boring af. Next obvious step were buggy motors - allowing an approximate speed of 10km/h. It could probably pick up a higher speed with BuWizz 2.0's Ludicrous mode, but fast mode of BW v1.0 is enough to topple the bike over when taking high-speed turns. Unfortunately it does require "training wheels" to ride straight, as it would lean on one side without those after taking a curve without those. The bike does feature rear axle suspension, and small wheels have shocks as well. "01" stickers reused from MPATEV, "police" from 42047. Design-wise it belong to the same "universe" as my spaceship and racers - an Axos Police bike used to patrol within city high-speed tunnels and surface operations. Video&photos, C&C very welcome and appreciated))) Cya later!
  22. keymaker

    [MOC] KrAZ-255

    Hi, I would like to present you my last creation - russian truck KrAZ-255. I was inspired by the model which is available in PC game: Spintires. The truck is built in scale 1:23. I tried to implement some key features of real truck, like suspension, drive train, details like engine and easy aplicable additions, which are present in the game. Enjoy :) Some details: - weight: 995g - dimensions LxWxH: 49x15x18 studs (without mirrors and additions) - live axle suspension - separate drive shaft for each axle - 6x6 drive, no diffs (L motor) - steering (M motor) - front and rear lights - working fake V8 engine - openable hood and doors - additions! There are some additions too! All of them are easy to connect or disconnect to swap to another. The first is simple crate: The second addition is prepared to wood transportation: The last one is the most advanced one - the crane. It is also partially remotely controlled. Functions: - rising/lowering two sections of the arm - crane rotation - gripper rotation - gripper closing/opening - extendable and lockable outriggers - openable maintenance section More photos: Video: I hope you like it :)
  23. Hello! Not so long ago, I became interested Lego technic and decided to assemble my own excavator based on 8043. I began to design a chassis on Lego Disigner. And now I present to your attention a new chassis. I made it completely independent on radio control with two M motors that can be changed to L motors, and a two-speed transmission, for better cross-country ability, which is switched manually. The gear ratio is 1 : 1 and 1.5 : 1. The chassis has become 3 cm longer - it is 20 studs and 20 cm, faster and more passable than 8043. I want to know your opinions, ideas and suggestions for improvement.
  24. Here's a MOC on which I'm working since the end of the previous summer! After I have done the video of my DS3, I had the idea to do a new chassis with 4 wheel drive. I thought it would not be possible, but the first prototype was better than my DS3! Actually the MOC is not finished. The stickers are missing, and I'm continuing to develop the chassis (I'm adding a 4th L motor) Actually there are 1 L for the front, and 2 L for the rear. The great advantage of the 4WD is that it can take a great angle while turning, but it's always controllable. But, that can have an inconvenient: the understeering. For that, I did the same thing on the real RC drift cars: I added a free wheel. So when I do not accelerate, the front wheels are not braked and the car does not understeer. You can see this video on this video, done for BuWizz with Charbel. But this is one. It's the same thing, but there is only my car. The final gymkhana will be for the next summer, because that requires a lot of time, and with the school, I have not enough time at another moment of the year.
  25. I have done this MOC more than a year ago, but as for the Ford Mustang Hoonicorn, I can't make the video until the bug of the BuWizz (with the Fast and Ludicrous modes) is corrected. So I show you the pictures of the MOC for the moment. ^^ I have started to build this creation when I have received 2 RC motors. The purpose was to see what I could make using 2 RC motors and a BuWizz. So this thing is an airplane... until the bug stops the BuWizz. With the 2 RC motors connected to big wheels by the high output, this is very fast. How I had the idea to make this model? I wanted to make a cartoon / videogame style MOC, so I chose the most famous vehicle of Mario Kart videogame. The 2 RC motors are at the rear, the BuWizz is between them. At the front, there is the servomotor which activates the steering with an Ackermann effect, and there is a return to the steering wheel. The body work is easily detacheable. You have just to remove some pins, or simply to detach the blocs from the chassis. Video coming in a moment I think...