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Found 440 results

  1. I continue my mission to motorize the Creator Expert fleet, have already done a bunch other of them. I always try to make the motorization as inivisible as possible, you should not be able to see any electronics without looking very carefully. As the Porsche is pretty big and heavy I used ad Buwizz and a Large motor geared up 20/12 to give it the power that a Porsche deserves. If you do not need Turbo Power it could also be powered with a cheaper CaDa system. Since the PF servo is so big and bulky, i have used an M motor with a rubberband return to center function instead. Also added 2 pairs of Power Function lights, altough I am not totally happy with the front lights, but this was the best I could come up with. Because I am creating instructions for other to build this, I have not used any rare/expensive bricks and tried to reuse as many bricks as possible in new locations. It only requires about 150 extra bricks and electric parts. If there are interest, I might create Power Functions and/or Powered Up versions later. I have some ideas to hide the IR reciever and there is still space for a slightly larger battery and motor. Youtube video Rebrickable Instructions
  2. Let´s start with brand new model for the LEGO Technic Challenge. A 29 cm tall figure of American astronaut with moving wrists, elbows and shoulders. The helmet is equipped with two PF lights and both arms are operated by PF M motors. The model is remote controlled and powered by rechargeable LEGO battery.
  3. Not entirely Technic build, more like model team approach at minifig scale, but the video is about some challenges when it comes to making something this small with RC. Not a complete success, but the video should be interesting to watch
  4. Hi, I would like to present my newest MOC. It is off-roader with look based on UAZ 3151 and equipped with functions available in off-road game Snowrunner. Main functions and some details are listed below. If anybody is interested with some more technical detailes (and I believe there are people here, which are more focused on technical aspects of the MOC rather than the look), which are hard to show in short video, then I encourage you to scroll down, below photos. If not, then I believe that video and some photos should serve just fine. I also added short video to present couple of tests of Uaz frame and powertrain. Instructions will be available in the future :) Details and main functions: scale 1:10,5 dimensions LxWxH: 38x16.5x18.5 cm weight: 2.44 kg (without additions) 4x4 drive (2xL motors) steering with ackermann geometry (servo motor) adjustable height of suspension for both axles (M motor) lockable differentials on both axles (mechanism without pneumatic, secured with clutch, M motor) live axle suspension, front and rear working inline four piston engine with fan and detailed engine bay lights: front, rear, roof - controlled by manual hidden switch openable hood (with support rod), trunk, four doors locks in all doors and trunk working steering wheel with realistic number of turns and with adjustable position easy removing the whole body easy change to version with or without the roof adjustable front seats - leaning and moving back and forward split rear seats with folding backrest to increase trunk capacity openable glove box easy access to battery pack for replacement Instructions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-75601/keymaker/off-roader-uaz-3151-aka-khan-39-marshall-4x4-rc/#details More photos: https://bricksafe.com/pages/keymaker/7.-uaz-3151 Drive I designed the drive to be balanced between speed and torque. Main idea was to make drivetrain strong and reliable. I used the strongest differentials, new reinforced CV joints and bevel gears whenever possible. What is more I tried to keep high speed – low torque rule as long as possible when designing the drive train. As the result, the biggest reduction is placed on axles – on differentials. Thanks to that and reinforced construction you will stall 2 L motor rather than hear some gear slipping. Look In case of look, I keep in mind to avoid blue pins whenever possible, keep nice, clean one colour chassis which can be seen underneath and focus on small details, both inside and outside. Also you will not see many holes in the body or ugly cables, despite the fact that there are 5 lego LEDs there. What is more, all lights, along with the switch are integrated into one piece removable body and can be easy removed only by disconnecting single cable. Performance The plan was to make it very capable when off roading. And it is, when you remove the body. The look and those many details and manual features, all related to the body come with obvious price – weight. UAZ weights 2435g in basic configuration, but only the body itself weights 855g. So if resign from features, which are related stricte to the body and replace the body with some light weight one, then you will get very capable machine. But even with the body, thanks to drive train design, off-road capabilies of UAZ are pritty decent, as showed on the video. If you have more questions, do not hesitate to ask. And keep MOCing! :)
  5. Hello everyone! I was wondering if it was possible making a bike that was fun to drive around while keeping it low price so i came up with this: it's a baja bike, it runs on an L motor geared up 2:1 and like the other bikes i've been making it shares the same principle to keep it upright. These new tires are awesome, they have an amazing grip and the rounded shape makes em really good for motorbikes! I hope you'll like it, here are some pics and the video i shot :)
  6. Hi everybody, I'm newbie to the EB, so I'd like to introduce myself with this humble MOC. I'm a fan of LEGO Technic and pneumatics, especially RC ones. I hope I will meet here more fans of LEGO Technic pneumatics. I'd really appreciate any discussion and suggestions. Features: Powered and controlled by BuWizz 2.0 + 2 x Sbrick + PS4 controller + BrickController 2, 16 RC functions (12 can be used at once); 7 x PF motors - 4 x servo motors and 3 x L motors 6 x PF LED RC AWD powered by a PF L motor - with a central differential and gearing including the difference in the wheels’ diameters; pendular driven front axle controlled by PF servo motor - the pivot point is above the wheels’ axle to limit overlapping wheels on the front loader - like in a real tractor; differentials on both axles; 7 RC pneumatic functions controlled by 3 PF servo motors - 3 of them can be used simultaneously (selected manually). 3 at the front to serve the front loader, 4 at the back - one for 3-point hitch, and 3 outputs for additional attachments; pneumatic pump powered by a PF L motor and connected with all RC controlled pneumatic valves. It works proportionally to the opening of the pneumatic valves what ensures smooth work of pneumatic functions. Front loader with 4 attachments - brush grapple, wrapped bale grab, pneumatic sliding pallet forks and bucket; PTO shaft - powered by a PF L motor; trailer hitch; opening hood and doors; lights - front and rear, roof spotlight, blinkers, beacon lights; simple interior - steering wheel and driver seat; Here you can see it in action:
  7. Hi, I think 42099 is a nice starter RC set of the PU line, so I set out to test what else can be brought out of all its parts. I'd like to share with you my set of 5 alternate builds from it. It has been a great exercise for experimenting with different options for suspensions, drivetrains and bodyworks, testing the versatility of this medium-sized set. In the end, all of the alternate models came out with quite different shapes, suspension techniques and motor/gearing setups, and I think I even managed to use those large turntables in some interesting ways. During my builds, I found that the set has a good array of structural elements, of course good drivetrain components, but is a bit limited on gears, axles and body panels. Nevertheless, once you get used to it, more configurations are possible than you would think :) Here are my builds in chronological order. Much more design details and images of each are accessible on the link behind each name. Here I shortly summarize the features and the differentiating factors of them.1) JeepyThis model was inspired by the release of the Jeep Wrangler set and its pendular suspension using the small turntables. - Pendular suspension using large turntables, both front and rear- 4WD slow drivetrain for good climbing, separate front and rear drive- Jeep-like exterior, focusing on the shape of the hood and the grill, plus the roll-cage 2) BuggyInspired by the release of the RC Buggy set, with this model the goal was to test how fast the the two XL motors can be geared up, along with creating a slick bodywork. - Independent long travel suspension with longer swing-arms both front and rear, high ground clearance- Fast up-geared rear wheel drive, independent for left and right wheel without differential- Positive caster angle at the front axle- Light-weight curvy bodywork, custom built seat 3) BeastyThis model aimed to test the possibility of building a live axle rear suspension using the large turntable, along with coupled motors for a stronger drivetrain. - Live axle rear suspension with push-rods for extreme articulation, independent front suspension- 4WD drivetrain with coupled motors driving both front and rear axles, adjustable gearing- Rough exterior, minimalistic interior 4) QuadroThe goal of this model was to build something other than a car, and to experiment with an unconventional motor setup. - Independent front suspension with positive caster angle, trailing arm rear suspension- V-engine built out of the joined drive motors, rear wheel drive- Functional steering rod- Chubby bulldog-like quad shape, bullbar 5) TrophyWith this model, I wanted to push the live axle possibilities further, creating long soft travel using only the short springs, and to find a sweet-spot in the up-gearing of the motors. At the same time aiming to create a larger-looking bodywork with the limited array of panels. - Long soft travel live axle rear suspension, independent front suspension- Rear wheel drive with motors built into the rear axle, independent left and right drivetrain without differential, faster gearing- Trophy-truck like exterior with curved front and long tail, imitated spare wheel All models can be controlled with the stock Control+ App, and the batteries can either be directly accessed from the bottom, or can be removed after detaching a few panels. All models are available separately or in a 5-in-1 pack on Rebrickable. I hope this makes you value your 42099 sets even more :) Let me know what you think!
  8. Hello I'd like to present my small-scale RC semi truck. It has PF Servo, XL motor and sbrick mounted in the cab/frame and the battery is neatly mounted in the trailer that also has a two-stage ramp driven by single L motor and Technic strings. The cables go through the hole in trailer saddle (big turntable) to connect sbrick with battery and ramp motor with sbrick at the back of sleeping cab. Full gallery: https://imgur.com/a/2uPHku There is an alternate configuration for potential standalone/without trailer use: Hope you'll like it :)
  9. Hi, guys Remote controlled Pickup with Top Gear Rally Car profile Lambo doors, adjustable height of the rear axle (manual) Download for free at lforces.com Happy Easter!
  10. Small rc car based off a design I came up in LDD 2 years ago (link, now with (in my eyes) slightly improved looks. Not a top-speed record breaker, a powerful tug-of-war winner vs a car, but a fun little thing to drive around. Originally everything came together off the fact that I wanted to drive the space wheels with a motor, everything else just came around. 2x m-motors w/ 1:2.084 final gear ratio and uses tank steering. To archieve small size a PF receiver with a Ni-MH 8'4V 20R8H format battery (the typical square 9v ones), which is quite underpowered (the cell might be dead too as it has been just lying around for a year or so). Probably can be BuWizz-ed with some drivetrain and body mods. I guess could also use one of those train controller blocks from PU/C+ (?) line if you've only got that system. lxf-file: download Video and a few pictures (same as from video slideshow) below. Mandatory belly shot: Cya!
  11. I converted the 42121 Heavy Duty Excavator to a RC version that can be driven and moved. * Instructions are being distributed by Recrickable. https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-69683/Seo-onDaddy/42121-heavy-duty-excavator-full-rc-mod/#details * A 4-port receiver such as 'MOULDKING' receiver or, 'CaDA' receiver or 'Buwizz' is required, and case separation is required.'MOULDKING' receivers do not require any work other than case separation.The 'CaDA' receiver or 'Buwizz' must be removed from the case and the battery must be replaced in a small size.Battery size should be less than 14mm x 25mm x 50mm. * I modified some parts of the exterior because the space was cramped. * fixed the range of operation of the arm operation.
  12. Hi there guys !!! How's everyone? It's been so long ! I had another pretty long dark age plus some kind of "lego creative block" , plus i got into developing videogames last year so i've been quite busy. Recently a friend of mine got me into lego again and somehow that creative block went off also thanks to the purchase of a buwizz :) I've always been quite obsessed by motorbikes and finally with a buwizz i could give them the look i wanted and mainly not run after them I've made two different ones both have something special: The first one is inspired by the 90's look of Honda's dirtbikes and in ludicrous mode it is honestly the fastest lego vehicle i've ever made. In the video it's running on "slow" mode. It works the same way other lego bikes used to work but instead of moving an added weight i've figured out that moving the battery alone is enough to make the bike lean left or right. In the next days I'll shoot a proper video somewhere else where i've got more space to drive it in ludicrous https://youtu.be/o7YUIS2ne7Q The second bike is "better" in a way, it only requires an L motor, it can run on pure power functions while still being enjoyable, it's enough removing the fake fuel tank and attaching the PF reciver. This one is pretty fast as well when running in ludicrous and overall it's a lot of fun :) I will take a video of this one too as soon as i have the chance https://youtu.be/-D2Kf-bZz0Y I really hope you guys will like them Bikes are not so common to see , it's kinda time to start making them :D if anyone is interested in the 3D files i'll happily share them
  13. My new creation: Lighthouse Size: 12L, 11W, 53H, cm Parts: 400 Weight: 600g Features: - Working lights - 360° rotation - Opening door - PF: 2x LED, M-motor, LiPo-battery, IR-receiver Video: The instruction is free, it's inside the video. Check the Rebrickable page for the inventory: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-70910/paave/lighthouse/#details More Photos:
  14. Hello Eurobricker's I just wanted to show you one of my latest builds. Its an RC semi truck that has the ROOF based on a Scania Crew-cab! Love it or hate it here it is. Features Differential in the rear. Opening doors Spacious Cabin Detailed Interior Full RC L Motor and an M motor Working 5th wheel Easily removable battery box. Love it or hate it there it is. Please give me some feedback, I haven't made instructions yet as I don't know if anyone will be interested in building it!
  15. Here is my first attempt of building a rc trophy truck: Thanks to @brickosouch for the Inspiration and sharing the stl files for ball bearing lift arms!
  16. Hi everyone, I've finished trying to RC my 42043 and it seems that the PF L motor has issues providing sufficient power to drive the set? I obtained instructions from the creator of this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpP_05uxKqs&t=22s&ab_channel=PawełWojnarowski) and also checked PPUNG DADDY's 42043 RC video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8easq7ueIo&ab_channel=PPUNGDADDY(뿡대디)-LEGOTECHNICRC), both used an L motor with no problems. Here's a video of the issue: https://youtu.be/J8P13WLPzN8. As you can see in the video, the motor loses power after driving for some time, eventually being unable to drive at all. The problem is worsened when I try to drive and steer at the same time, it's almost impossible to drive and turn. I have tried swapping the tyres around, changing batteries, trying a V1 and V2 IR receiver, switching positions of the motor and servo cables, and using a new L motor. But the problem still persists. Here's a photo of the L motor: Could it be because of excess friction introduced in the rear axles during construction? Because I noticed when I lifted up the rear axles, the motor spins the wheels at its standard rpm, BUT only 1 wheel on each axle spins, the other is stationary. Then when the wheels contact the floor, the motor suddenly seems to struggle with driving the thing. Hence I was thinking could it be that I built the differential too "tightly"? Appreciate any help from the technic experts in this forum, thanks in advance!
  17. Hi, As a winter project I'm working on a 4WD RC buggy. It will be heavily inspired by @agrof's Class 1 Ultimate Buggy, for I very much like the behaviour and the looks of that model. With this model I will also deliver to my promise to @DugaldIC to make an RC model. I was planning on finishing this MOC without a WIP topic, but I simply can't work without the feedback . It will have 4 L-motors and 1 servo motor. No buggy motors, for I will be using current-date parts only. Control will be done with SBrick. Sofar I have been working on the axles. The rear axles are very much inspired by agrof's model, but this time everything relies on perfect fits. They rely on the Pythagorean triple (5,12,13). The front axles are my very own addition to this model: 2 L-motors are integrated in the double-wishbone setup. Making everything rely on perfect fits, is one of my main challenges. The second challenge is to make everything relevant form-locked. And of course the model needs to perform. All wheel hubs are turn-table/u-joint based: Sofar I have only been designing digitally, but I did check the most essential constructions in real life already. I will show progress when ever I have something to show. If you have any comments, feel free to reply. I'm new to motorized building so I can use some feedback.
  18. I got the 42123 McLaren and decided to build a rc version of it. Here is my actual step: It has got no suspension but positive caster angle at the front. 😊
  19. I was searching for offers on the out-door suspension and noticed that there are only two sets that include it but I only knew about the bike one. So I checked the building instructions of the 8369 set and omg what is that system? Is that even qualify(of course it does because it's Lego) as Lego? So if anyone can provide info about this strange system I would be really thankful.
  20. keymaker

    [WIP] UAZ 3151

    Hi, I am building next MOC based on model which can be found in the game Snowrunner. I picked KHAN 39 Marshall - it is based on real world vehicle - UAZ 3151. I would like to ask for your advice with one of my biggest problem in mocing - creating a decent looking body. When you see the photos and think "It doesn't look like UAZ..." then YES - you are right and: I wish to focus on body and look (I don't want to discuss functions here, they are there and they are fine). As you can see, the main color is picked (some parts in proper colors are missing, but is not a problem when bricklink is around, the same goes for some missing obvious parts), but any smaller recolors are possible. The biggest problem I have is the front grill. It looks almost ok, but as the grill for Jeep or Land Rover, not the UAZ. I tried to recreate UAZ grill, but I failed miserably. As you can see, there is no much space for it and I am also very pleased with perfect connection of the front and the hood and I definitely will keep that. Important factor is also the fact, that body needs to be as one piece, which can be easily removed, so the body demands some rigidity. Also I plan to add front and rear lights, but at first I need to be sure that the body is right. So, could you help me a little to improve the look so it would be closer to UAZ body look? :)
  21. Hello, This is my first post. I built Wing Body Truck seven months ago. Then I knew that many people wants building instructions. Now it is available. Sorry for late, because I've worked alone! Total 4126 pcs. The weight of Truck is 4600g (with 6x Eneloop batteries).
  22. This is the first non-contest MOC that I have posted. It started out as @Madoca 1977's Baja Trophy Truck. I think I originally got as far as mounting the engine when I first started. As I only have the long shocks in soft, I decided I needed to redesign how the suspension worked. I also added all-wheel drive, which significantly complicated the front end. As well as kingpin inclination. I spent a good amount of time trying to get Ackermann geometry, but could not get anything sturdy. That was almost a year ago. I shelved this project. Then my wife got me the Porsche, Claas, and a second SBrick.. And this is the result. The main frame and roll cage are the most similar to Madoca's. Since I have taken these pictures, have redesigned how the battery boxes are mounted. They attach to the frame and sit much lower into the truck. It is possible to take off the bodywork and roll cage and drive. I redesigned the rear axle so that the power sent to the front was from both sides, so that one set of l-motors was not power 3 tires. There is still some clicking in the front, but only when not driven on a flat surface. I had to reduce the gear ratio to 1:1.667. The differential at the rear acts as an adder and sends power to the front differential, and fake engine. The rear wheels are still driven directly by one pair of motors, each. I could not figure out a way, without buying shocks, to suspend the rear axle on the smaller shocks and still have plenty of travel. Until I found some small springs in my junk drawer. I have no idea what their strength is, but they get the job done. At full compression and fully turned, the front tires will touch the body. The body itself comes off in 4 pieces: each side, roof/hood, and front bumper. More pictures can be found in my Brickshelf folder at: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=571486 I will leave you with my favorite picture
  23. I think, it would make sense to open a new thread for the Unimog 8110 U-400, that includes all the MOCs, changes, improvements on the Unimog. It should also contain all the new attachments, equipments, that people build. It should show their ideas and what they are creating for this cool set. I am looking forward to see your creations! I'll start today. I implemented a pneumatic driven cargo bed. It is driven by the original motorized pump and works pretty well. The lifting angle could be better. So there is still room for inmprovments. For more pictures of this MOC plesae vistit my Flickr-page or (after publishing) my Brickshelf-folder. Regards, Gerhard
  24. Hi, I'd like to share my second C model for 42099, inspired by the recently released off-road buggy. The design goals were 1) faster speed 2) responsive and long suspension travel 3) lightweight and curved shape.The wheel hubs and the differentials perform down-gearing, so I decided to apply 3x up-gearing by a ratio of 5:3 and skip the differential to make it faster than the original. Since the differentials are not used, the small gears can be used for up-gearing with perpendicular meshing of gears, which is smoother than the parallel meshing of the 20 and 12-tooth gears. I decided to use rear wheel drive only, one motor driving each rear wheel. I managed to compact the drive-train with the following setup: For suspension, I wanted a long travel and a wider wheel base, so I tried to increase the length of the swing-arms. The rear suspension seemed simple with 7L beams, but the front suspension was more difficult, as I had to increase the length of the 6L steering arms in the set by 1 stud, so I had to apply some tricky workarounds. Furthermore, I wanted a lightweight axle with a positive caster angle, with the steering motor integrated closely to the axle. The result has more than 6 studs of ground clearance and 3 studs of travel and is quite responsive: The battery is integrated into the middle of the model to distribute the weight between the two axles, and to provide easy access from the bottom. The whole base looks like this: The bodywork proved to be the most difficult to get right, since the panels available in the model are hard to use to get the light-weight frame-like body that I wanted. After taking some inspiration from the shape of Madoca's Blue Lightning buggy, I got the hang of using the arched pieces and the flexible hoses to build the curves, and used some of the panels to finish the body with a simple roof and hood. The roof is attached very strongly to the base, so the car can be lifted by it.As the small grey seats in the original just didn't feel like a match to the overall shape and scale of the model, I gave building a custom seat a try. Luckily, the few available red pieces were just enough to make a black seat with two red stripes :) I think it adds a lot to the overall look of the model.Here are a few more pics: Finally, here's a video of it in action: Building instructions available on Rebrickable. Let me know how you like it! Cheers, Viktor
  25. Hi everyone, Finally, I have finished a project which I was building since last September. It is the scale model of the Intrac 2011 snow blower which is/was often used in the swiss alps by the army and other communal parties. It was the aim to create another working snow blower after the success of the snow blower from last winter. The blower is powered by three buggy-motors which are all controlled by a separate Sbrick. Each track is driven by two PF XL motors. The snow blower shoot direction is controlled by two 9-volt micro motors and the height of the snow blower by one PF L motor. As power source I used two Buwizz as battery or a custom lipo battery. After a certain time in the cold I had the replace the Buwizz with the custom lipo battery. Cheers FT