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Found 405 results

  1. Ahoy, seamates! I have started my LEGO-Ideas Project 2-3 months ago and now I want to present it to the specific lego pirates community! Would be nice to get your suppport but even more I am looking for some advice what I can improve on it. SUPPORT NOW Please take a look on the ideas website or at my flickr https://flic.kr/s/aHsmMnLn6a for more fotos! Here is the text from ideas: Welcome on board of The Rolling Dutchman! Since I have been a child I always wanted to control my LEGO Red Beard Runner without pushing it around and now my dream has come true. I have build a motorized Version of the famous Flying Dutchman which is my favorite pirate ship, too. I have seen the original swedish Vasa which has given the idea for the Dutchman with its marvelous bow and stern. So I managed to combine them with my own creative ideas into this "rolling" Dutchman! Please have a look at the features in the video and the pictures! Video: Update 2: Thanks for your 1k supports so far! I have worked on the main picture a bit and now added a picture of the crew and one showing the functions as well. Update 1: New rotten Sails! (Picture 7+8+Video still with the first sails) Motorized Features: Rolling movement caused by waves (1. M-Motor) Two motorized triple-barrelled chasers in the bow (1. M-Motor) Motorized steering with simoultaneously rotating ship´s wheel, rudder and steering mechanism (S-Motor) Motorized movement for- and backward (L-Motor) Motorized sail trim with turning capstan and changing sail position of all square sails (M-Motor) All features can be controlled by rc-control via 4 channels and two receivers All features use the Power-Function System but could easily be adapted to the new Control+ System which can lead to advanced handling of the functions The battery box can slide out easily to switch on/off and change batteries General Features: Minifigures: Davy Jones, Jack Sparrow, Elizabeth, Bill Turner, Barbossa and more. (I am not familiar with the movies in english so I would like to ask you to tell me the names in the comments section!) Two decks with cannons (one side the lower deck is closed to store the motors) The two tripple-barreld chasers can manually slide backwards and then the gun ports can be closed Removable deck at the stern to take out the steering wheel Removable lower balcony´s on both sides Handmade sails Two functional anchors Upper cabin minifigure size with Jack stealing the heart (illuminated) Lower cabin with Davy Jones organ (illuminated) Two torches at the stern (illuminated) The capstan can be removed The ship is based on the sturdy hull parts, the complete 2 lower rows of bricks can be removed with the steering and driving wheels to use it as "normal" push forward ship or display model The main mast and the mizzen are both slightly tilted backwards Correct rigging and sails due to the movies The ropes between the masts can be removed easily to take them apart for transport It would be an honor to receive your support. Aye! I have to thank my friend J-H to help me with some motorization problems and a special thanks to my girlfriend for not freaking out! Thanks, yours Störtebricker from Hamburg, Germany SUPPORT NOW
  2. I would like to present the result of my Winter-project. A big thank you to everybody who supported me in the corresponding WIP-topic and of course to @DugaldIC for challenging me! Instructions are available on Rebrickable. Features: Turn-table-based wheel-hubs with minimal slack 4WD by means of 4 L-motors powered by two BuWizz 2 units Fully independent suspension Steering with Servo-motor 30 degree steering angle with Ackermann geometry Caster angle Fake V8-engine driven by M-motor Can handle a rough ride Liftable by roof, nose and tail Everything in-system Stats: Parts #: 1844 Weight: 1980gr Length: 54 studs Width: 35 studs Height: 23 studs I hope this will pull @Blakbird back into Technic . Some stills from video-material. And finally a few short videos.
  3. mktechniccreations

    [MOC] Rock-Bouncer

    Hello my friend. This is my another asset to this forum in form of a off-roader/rock-crawler in this particular case its more like rock-bouncer, the reasons are follows. This MOC is powered by 3L Power function motors, which two of them are located in the rear axle, to help during uphill climb with more torque requested on the rear axle and overcome any obstacles Gear ratios are as followos, from motor to the axle its 3:1 to speed up the model, and afterwards it connected to new planetary hubs with theire respective ratios, steering is controlled by one servo and everything is controlled by one buwizz brick. Instructions are avaible at rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/users/MK.Technic/mocs/ More photos on bricksafe page: https://bricksafe.com/pages/MK.Technic.Creations/rockcrawler-2l Video
  4. Technic General Discussion Welcome to the Technic General Discussion topic. Here you can post small questions or comments about Lego Technic which don't need a topic of their own. This way we will keep the number of topics limited. Examples Has anyone built vehicle x? Where can I find this or that? I missed this set on eBay...darn!
  5. Hello everyone! Before I start I want to wish all of you to stay healthy, survive and win the disease! Today at my birthday I decided to share with you my latest MOC. This is a brand new Liebherr LR 11000. From the previous model, it took only some boom sections and proportions. The chassis and superstructure built from nothing and were rebuild several times. Below please let me share with you some dry specifications of the model: - Crane is about 2 meter high - weights 5 kg - requires at least 5 big battery boxes for been fully operated - can be managed by 3 sBrick units. - has 10 PF motors (4 are in the chassis) - Has 9 pneumatic cylinders + a pump - Has a full-size V6 diesel fake engine like the real crane - Has 6 winches, 3 of them are installed to the boom like in the real crane, but none of the motors are on the booms. - Crane is able to assemble and disassemble back from horizontal to working condition without any human help. - Has 4 pneumatic features, three of them are operated from the cabin, two of them are operated from the operators work seat Now is hte time for it's features: - Driving and steering - one XL motor per each track. Torgue increased 1:25 - Slewing by 2 M motors - L Motor for SA Frame winch - L Motor for the Main boom winch - M motor for the luffing jib winch - M motor for the secondary hook winch - L motor for the main hook winches - Pneumatically adjustable operators cabin - Pneumatically adjustable derrick counterweight horizontally - Pneumatically adjustable derrick counterweight vertically - Pneumatically rising chassis for (dis)assemble. - L motor for the pump and V6 engine - Individual Sbrick custom profile - 3 Pair of lights: - Front LED - Cab LED - Main hook winches LED Here is the link to photos, I'll post some directly here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Aleh/2020-lego-liebher-lr-11000 Bonus: Here is the performance of the superstructure stability without boom and without counterweight(!), only one battery box insalled for fotors activity. Boxes are full with batteries (24 pcs) Easy to fix the front suspension: https://bricksafe.com/files/Aleh/2020-lego-liebher-lr-11000/IMG_2983.jpeg/800x600.jpg 1,5 kg load. Please enjoy and feel free to ask any questions.
  6. Hey y'all, First time I'm gonna try to do a WIP page... Been fiddling around with this Kraz 255b MOC by the one and only Ingmar Spijkhoven and figured out what attachment I'll build finally. In short, it's a mini portable bridge (called a TMM-3 or a scissor bridge). Functions of this add on attachment consist of- Actuator for raising and lowering the bridge Winch for deploying and retracting the bridge 2 stabilizers at the end of the truck to... stabilize the truck Propulsion has been swapped from 2 L motors on the sides to 1 one buggy motor under the hood. Now the replica engine can be put on display. The gearbox I really wanted to try part 35188 to make all the functions AND propulsion run on the one motor. Where I guess we can call the "transfer case" is at is right behind the cab, so here's what the result is for now. It was tricky since the tandem axle left no room for fit it in between the chassis rails. The rear shaft will actually hit the bottom of this when compressed all the way. It's as compact as could get it with Studio (kinda a LDD fan). It'll probably need to be reinforced even more, but wanna see how it mates with the buggy motor first. Never built a gearbox before and destroyed many other MOC's with gearboxes so don't have high hopes. Note- all of the motorized attachments will be ran with worm gears, so not to concerned with the gear ratios... buggy motor just gonna make everything super fast anyways with a Buwizz. Where buggy motor is planning to be in the future a bit more securely. Just seeing how a gearbox could be placed and how high it'll be. Part 87408 is now mounted securely below the motor with two 24t gears feeding it above (will get a shot of it soon). Getting the motor to fit underneath the hood was very miserable. Couldn't use a servo anymore since the buggy motor is so low it'll interrupt the travel of the front axle. (yes the fenders are mounted backwards when rebuilt...) Ordered the parts for the gearbox and will update once they come in. Planned order of the build- Gearbox Wheels Test drive Stabilizers Building the frame/chassis of the TMM winch Scissor bridge Survive the misery
  7. legotechnicus

    MAZ 537 8X8 (WIP)

    Hi guys, after a while of being not so active on the forum I decided to share a MOC (still wip) of a MAZ 537 8X8 truck. When I saw the 42099 I knew I needed some planetary hubs, so I got myself 8 of them :). Around this time I started playing with LEGO again, but kept it at american trucks (which i will post later). I started making a simple axle, because I really wanted the independent suspension on all axles like the real truck has. After this I build a test chassis and one thing led to another and now I have a rolling chassis for the truck. I came across these actions photo's of the truck and i'm planning to make some more and better pictures of the drivetrain and such. http://MAZ 537 WIP by J. van Veldhuizen, on Flickr http://MAZ 537 WIP by J. van Veldhuizen, on Flickr http://MAZ 537 WIP by J. van Veldhuizen, on Flickr Will keep posting updates! Have a nice evening, Legotechnicus
  8. Hogwartus

    [MOC] RC Buggy

    After 42099 and the whole new PU system, I'm here with a MOC that uses something a bit older - RC system. After all these years it is still the most powerful 100% LEGO solution. Watch it in all its glory: Features: RC drive - 2x RC motor, geared 3:1 (slower output) RC steering Front suspension - double wishbone, soft, long travel, positive caster angle, 7 stud ground clearance Rear suspension - floating axle, soft, long travel, 5.5 stud ground clearance Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. I hope you liked this model.
  9. Now for something completely different: A Spyder from the future - the Turbo Racer's AMC Ultra - and its opponent - the Police Interceptor MM Falcon PS (both based on @rm8's chassis for his AWD prototype) Now you can play Outrun - but for real! UPDATE: This series of RC cars will get updated in the future with new additions. UPDATE2: It was time for a logo and here it is (might be subject to change)
  10. Hello! Not so long ago, I became interested Lego technic and decided to assemble my own excavator based on 8043. I began to design a chassis on Lego Disigner. And now I present to your attention a new chassis. I made it completely independent on radio control with two M motors that can be changed to L motors, and a two-speed transmission, for better cross-country ability, which is switched manually. The gear ratio is 1 : 1 and 1.5 : 1. The chassis has become 3 cm longer - it is 20 studs and 20 cm, faster and more passable than 8043. I want to know your opinions, ideas and suggestions for improvement. https://photos.app.goo.gl/pLWJAhrkLgbQsicx9 https://photos.app.goo.gl/u9BBHzmuTSy9ownA7 https://photos.app.goo.gl/UtGjoYUEW6Aj4gzc6 https://photos.app.goo.gl/pD2fxTxMAZBFhk9b6 https://photos.app.goo.gl/vCrHdsWXX5dWx3pQ8 https://photos.app.goo.gl/xFhtM5JCXkzqVDfw7 https://photos.app.goo.gl/ViqR7qVG8FfWWggM6 https://photos.app.goo.gl/TVUwKgE8TWrpRN2R8 https://photos.app.goo.gl/JFmRJjed1vA3BnP4A https://photos.app.goo.gl/AXv7u1MQ4RnDmCDV9 https://photos.app.goo.gl/HVCucWCKUY3Gae8U8
  11. I think, it would make sense to open a new thread for the Unimog 8110 U-400, that includes all the MOCs, changes, improvements on the Unimog. It should also contain all the new attachments, equipments, that people build. It should show their ideas and what they are creating for this cool set. I am looking forward to see your creations! I'll start today. I implemented a pneumatic driven cargo bed. It is driven by the original motorized pump and works pretty well. The lifting angle could be better. So there is still room for inmprovments. For more pictures of this MOC plesae vistit my Flickr-page or (after publishing) my Brickshelf-folder. Regards, Gerhard
  12. Hi everyone, Finally, I have finished a project which I was building since last September. It is the scale model of the Intrac 2011 snow blower which is/was often used in the swiss alps by the army and other communal parties. It was the aim to create another working snow blower after the success of the snow blower from last winter. The blower is powered by three buggy-motors which are all controlled by a separate Sbrick. Each track is driven by two PF XL motors. The snow blower shoot direction is controlled by two 9-volt micro motors and the height of the snow blower by one PF L motor. As power source I used two Buwizz as battery or a custom lipo battery. After a certain time in the cold I had the replace the Buwizz with the custom lipo battery. Cheers FT
  13. Hi there, I've developed a very annoying habit in the last few years. I randomly build pickups and other 4x4's. Even bought a real one. Anyway, the latest one is quite a biggy (sizewise) thanks to the planetary hubs. I've found a trick build them into solid axles with a practical ground clearance. This trick is going to be conroversial here. But start up with the video instead: All pics to be found here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Attika77/ultimate-pickup In the comments under the video, noble members of our community noted, that there are parts which could solve the 1/4 stud misery. (if you don't know what is that, off you go, and whatch the video to the end! ) One of these is the 14t gear from the old diffs: I've made the attempt, but due to that collar on the bottom (top on the pic) it is too wide and puts srain on the drivline, making it hard to turn it by hand, so it is off the table unfortunatelly. So I speak for myself when I say, cuting those axles worth it. Not a rare piece, and costs 1 cent on bricklink, but only because there is no smaller value in the currency itself. In return the design prooved itself very reliable. Another "weakness" of the axle is the inperfect geometry. The wheelhubs aren't completelly vertical. There is about 1 degree tilting inside on the top. /---\ Before overdramatising this atribute, think, if you've noticed it in the video? Apart from the axles, the rest of the truck is the product of those years I've mentioned above. The essence of it is a simplest possible drivetrain: And a steering solution refined for non-rack steering: (The render is made of an older version, hence the different connector) If you don't belive your eyes, yes I choose to use 4x2 beams to form steering arms. It looks savage, but it is doing the job very well, brings ackerman geometry in the game. It does not hold the wheels rock solid of course, but in practicality it isn't noticable on the field. I've got a rack steering solution as well, but that brings the servo down A, onto the front axle (I don't do that. Ever ) B, into the mid chassis, where I don't have room for that. So we keep that for another build. Also has a working steering wheel using the rear output from the servo. ame old bevel system I've been using in most of my builds. Check the 1st episode of the pickup saga for more on that. Suspension Solid axles on a 3 link setup. It is kinda made up design, slightly inspired by the rear suspension of my Isuzu Trooper. Changing the shocks, or their hinge point on the top, gives 3 different ride height and suspension stiffness. The black, soft springs give a softer, relaxed, lower stance to it, while the dark grey shocks (known from the set 8880) are lifting the truck to a practical maximum, but still can reach full articulation. Not in all situations good to have your truck up in the sky. Like the climbing in the video. With low shock setting it made 52 degrees, but 47 "only" on big wheels and lifted shocks. The center of gravity moves with your ground clearance. That's about it, the rest is smoke-screen, like the body, and fancy doors. Oh, here is a fun fact: When it came to the seats, I realised I have 2 adjustable seats salvaged from a lorry build from about 5 years ago. Luckily they fit perfect so just made a rear bench in the same style. A non adjustable lazy style. Please feel free to ask about it, or just say something about cutting axles. I hope you find something useful here to take home with you.
  14. This is my attempt at building a proper and most importantly; fun to drive ripsaw with somewhat realistic performance. The 8 buggy motors and 4 BuWizz seem to do the trick.. I tried to replicate as much as i could from the original design, obviously the drive-train works differently; the real EV1 has 1 motor with a clutch system in the rear differential to power the tracks from the rear alone, which i did try to replicate by adding the fake V8 and rear diff, which does function, but i disconnect it most of the time while drive outside because it has a habit of getting jammed by leaves, rocks and twigs, the gears used to connect to the fake V8 are all exposed. Here the sprockets are powered in the front and rear and each is connected directly to the slower output of 2 buggy motors, giving this thing crazy speed and torque. The suspension is set up like the real EV1 and works fine, but does require a track tension system, the real thing has a suspended front sprocket to keep tension on the tracks, in this case it would mean loosely suspended buggy motors, an idea i did not like and did not try, yet. I am using a simple lever, spring and wheels to keep tension on the track but it works fine and looks ok. For the body i tried to capture the look and feel of the real thing, using as little as possible panels and using beams for the boxy look with just the exposed framework seemed the right thing to do, i am sure it is filled with illegal connections, i go by the rule: "if it fits without force, it fits". The body is surprisingly solid, it can be lifted from several positions and it can take some abuse from driving, and abused it, i have.. The are 2 seat for Technic figures and the electrical wiring functions nicely as a seat-belt for them. I have added 2 sets of LED's on the top bar, i do not think the real EV1 had that, but it seemed the most "natural" position to me and it works nicely since they are aimed down a bit. And here you can see it in action! please leave a like if you can and help out my tiny channel: I hope you like it!
  15. RC Off-roader with Dual Diagonal Drive I think I'm onto something that will get me through the winter. Summary Dual diagonal drive means: 1) dividing torque over two separate drive trains while 2) preserving the advantage of having open differentials when cornering and 3) passing diagonal tests without using differential locks. Background I have been playing with this idea for a while already, especially after seeing @KevinMoo's dual drive models (Mitsubishi Pajero and Dual-Driveshaft Pickup). @KevinMoo rightfully addressed the vulnerability of LEGO parts in RC models and the fact that using independent drive trains for the left and right sides, loses the benefit of differentials while cornering. This got me thinking. Using independent drive trains for left and right in a 4WD model does indeed drop the benefit of differentials while cornering, but what if we would pair the wheels diagonally, so pair the left front (LF) wheel with the right rear (RR) wheel, and pair the right front (RF) wheel with the left rear (LR) wheel? The resulting 'dual diagonal drive' (I borrowed the term from the electric skateboard scene) would serve two major benefits: While cornering, the LF and RR wheels will average to a speed that is very close to the average speed of the RF and LR wheels. So not having an open distribution by means of a differential between the two drive trains is much less of a problem as with separate drive trains for the left and right side wheels. On a very uneven surface, where one or two wheels may lose contact with the ground, the wheels that do have contact are typically lined up diagonally, see image. With dual diagonal drive, the vehicle would still have traction, even without locking any differentials. Only on slippery surfaces, there are chances of spinning wheels. So this is what I'm thinking of. We start with the basic dual diagonal drive setup: Two separate drive trains, one for the LF and RR wheels and one for the RF and LR wheels. The drive trains cross using two 24t gears and an auxiliary 16t gear that sits right underneath the auxiliary axle for the other drive train. So no clutch gears are involved in this crossing. I inserted a 1L Technic liftarm inside each differential - idea from @Madoca 1977's Toyota Land Cruiser 80 - to prevent the bevel gears from popping out. Next we add a manual locking feature, which closes the differentials with a single lever. This locking feature will force each pair of wheels involved in one of the drive trains to have equal speed. Now we connect each XL-motor to one of the differentials, using a small 4-speed gearbox. That means; two separate 4-speed gearboxes. This may be a bit ambitious, we'll have to see in real-life whether this is feasible or not. I might fall back to two 2-speed gearboxes. I did pay attention to the amount of torque in the transmission though. I geared up the XL-motor outputs and geared down the transmission output. That makes the transmission spin faster with less torque. The gearboxes are operated synchronously using a 90-degree stepper, which is controlled by a Servo-motor. Each gear shift axle has its own 90-degree limiter. And finally the outputs of the XL-motors are transferred to a fake V8-engine via a normal differential. The sole purpose of this differential is to combine the XL-motor outputs for the fake engine. For the steering I'm thinking of using a servo motor. I don't really like the directness of steering with a servo-motor, but the steering link attachment points are moved one stud backwards, which confines the steering angle. This adds to better handling and protects the CV-joints in the wheel hubs. I don't know where this is going to end. I'm not even sure about the exact kind of car I will be targeting, but it sure needs to be some kind of all-rounder. Comments and suggestions are welcome.
  16. After reading several topics on Eurobricks, today, for the first time, I present an MOC on the forum. Do not hesitate to notify me if I made mistakes in my presentation. This MOC is a kind of tracked machine-gun Tank. It is powered by 2 BuWizz (one in the body, the other in the turret). Motorization: one RC per track with each a gearbox with 2 speeds. The two gearboxes are synchronized and controlled by a motor L. Orientation of the turret by motor M. Lifting of the "gun" by motor L. The firing mechanism uses 2 XL motors. Some pictures : Overview : Char Jaune Lego 001 by Laurent Lesellier, sur Flickr Char Jaune Lego 002 by Laurent Lesellier, sur Flickr Char Jaune Lego 001 by Laurent Lesellier, sur Flickr Char Jaune Lego 003 by Laurent Lesellier, sur Flickr The body : Char Jaune Lego 005 by Laurent Lesellier, sur Flickr Char Jaune Lego 006 by Laurent Lesellier, sur Flickr On-board ammunitions (105 rounds) At around 6 shots per second, the magazine empties in 17 seconds! it's very fast ! Char Jaune Lego 004 by Laurent Lesellier, sur Flickr Photo of a charger, there are 15 in the magazine: Char Jaune Lego 008 by Laurent Lesellier, sur Flickr For the video, you can watch the video on my wife's Facebook account. If you like it, you can like, comment and share! This will give me a few points for the contest organized by BuWizz. The subject of the competition is how to play with Lego during the lockdown due to the coronavirus! I propose an idea with playmobil! Do you like it? Thanks for reading. Do not hesitate to comment.
  17. This is my very first MOC of a semi-tractor mini chassis. This RC chassis took two months of intense testing and it just 94 pieces (including PF devices) to create the best mini chassis and its mostly a simple design. This chassis will host to many of my future projects and I also created a couple of youtube videos to show off its performance and durability. Version 2.0 chassis includes center differential and suspension. This chassis it includes the following, 1/10 scale Chassis is just 94 pieces with a to create a no gear slip no tire slip thought in my design. very strong frame and durability Its very modular and basic form is 1 frame = 2 halves so both axles will have the same suspension, drive, steering, etc, etc . (I experimented with all types axles and color) (ver 2.0 120 pieces) RC build in mind (it can be used with lego's, sbrick, buwizz and lepin or even a custom rc controller) 67.8 x 34r balloon tires (Balloon tires have the best traction for all types of surfaces like sand,rocks, asphalt and excel on smooth shiny surfaces) 1 lx motor and 1 servo (you can add more motor) 2 way reverse Ackermann Steering (can be upgraded to 4 way) AWD Dual Gear drive train with 1:1.66 output with all time positraction (to reduce gear slippage) Simple suspension (1 l travel and very stiff) (ver 2.0 2 link suspension per axle 3 l travel) Fake disc brakes Fake engine (optional) Center differential (ver 2.0 only) Short wheel base with excellent handling Off road and street car capabilities built into the chassis I have included some pics and videos and will add more. it still a work in progress!! My first video is to show the performance and handling and the second video is a 5 minute off road test to show its durability and to show that I can build a reliable RC chassis. 2.0 version 2.0 version side view Version 1.7 this video is to show performance and handling this 5 min video is to show durability and I can build a kick butt RC chassis !! And yes both videos are the same chassis!! Please add your comments and if you have any question, please feel free to ask about my MOC. This chassis was a really interesting project and discovered a few things about Lego's color of their beams and lift arms. I did a search on this forum about color and weight and none has came up so I guess ill be the first to post this.. I discovered that not all beams and lift arms weigh the same.. Same with pins and axles. I know there are friction and friction less axles and connectors but what I discovered beams and lift arms also weight differently, For example: This dark gray weighs 1.726 grams and Red of the same shape weighs 1.68 grams!!! That is a difference 0.114 grams!! yes that small but with 94 pieces it can add weight , The more I use the red Lego bricks colors, the more lighter the model !!! I have weigh a lot of different parts and color but I don't have all colors and shapes. So far the red color bricks are the lightest in my collections and that means using red bricks will adds more performance !!!! yes you can pat me on my back for this discovery!!
  18. Hello I'd like to present my small-scale RC semi truck. It has PF Servo, XL motor and sbrick mounted in the cab/frame and the battery is neatly mounted in the trailer that also has a two-stage ramp driven by single L motor and Technic strings. The cables go through the hole in trailer saddle (big turntable) to connect sbrick with battery and ramp motor with sbrick at the back of sleeping cab. Full gallery: https://imgur.com/a/2uPHku There is an alternate configuration for potential standalone/without trailer use: Hope you'll like it :)
  19. EDIT 04/29 - CURRENT STATE : Zere is a truck I just made (well, it actually took me several days) while being confined. I don't like to take apart my sets on display to MOC so I had to do with just a bunch of spare part I had, hence the strange color scheme and some questionable building technics and aesthetic choices (for example, I didn't had anything to make the front radiator grill so i had to improvise...) I wanted to make an American style Truck, inspired by the 5571, 5591, 8285 and more recently 42078, and remote controlled so I can have a little fun with it. Please don't be to harsh, this is my first Technic MOC that didn't end at the prototype status. The original goal was to test my new Buwizz but I finally used only original Lego PF element, because I rather use a physical remote than a smartphone. It is powered by a L motor (with the drivetrain as follow : Motor---16T / 16T---20T / differential / 20T--20T / differential) ) and steered with a servo, with a decent speed and a good steering lock. The IR receiver and standard AA battery box are housed in the back of the cab, and the latest can slide up for replacement by tilting the foldable spoiler forward. The spoiler can also be folded all the way down to make the cabin roof flat. The doors can be opened and the hood can be lifted, even though there is no fake engine underneath because that's where I furst intended to put the Buwizz. (Actually there is still enough room for it so I could convert the truck to a Buwizz model and remove all the biggest section of the cab for a more lightweight truck. :-) I could also run an axle under the cabin to the engine compartment and run a fake engine from the exposed 16T gear... A lot of work, thoughts, trial and errors went into the building of this truck, so I hope you will enjoy it as much as I do. There is still A LOT room for improvement, but unfortunately I was limited by the parts I had. Almost all of my grey and black liftarms and technic connectors whereused in the process ! I am not entirely satisfied by the roof of the cabin in the IR receiver area, which is a bit messy, and I really wish I had DBG curved panel for the sides instead of LBG ones. And of course, I wish I could replace the ugly black plate at the front with a proper truck grill. I also have to add a fifth wheel, as it is not able to pull anything in this configuration. It should be easy anyway, as I have a lot of mounting option at the rear (the black panel is only there for aesthetic purpose). I just have to figure out something with the parts i have left... In the end I like very much how it turned out though, and I may consider a bricklink order to fix the aforementioned issues once the lock-down is over. In the mean time, any comment and suggestion for improvement is welcome ! :-) EDIT : now with a running fake engine !
  20. Powered by BuWizz V1. Drive: 1x M-motor. Steering: 1x M-motor Video: WIP photos:
  21. Leviathan

    RC Car Toy Story

    Hi everyone, Here is my last original creation : The RC Car from Toy story movie ! I would like to make a RC car controlled by smartphone and easily recognizable by young people (and older one too...) Features : RWD by 2 L motors Steering by 1 Servo motor Controlled by 1 Sbrick (or 1 Buwizz without bbox) Independent suspensions External switch for power supply Some nice colors I used 2 pythagoriciens triplets to improve chasis stiffness. The car is divided in 3 modules : front, motors and rear In the picture below you can see red bush on 4l axle with stop. It's the switch to power up or down the battery box. I used Anto's buggy motorisation : http:// http://www.techlug.fr/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11544 but il replaced 8t by 24t. HD photos gallery : https://www.flickr.com/photos/147164115@N07/albums/72157713497548457 Building instructions are available : https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-39835 I added 3x3 lime dish for the eyes on 3D model : I hope you'll like it, See you soon !
  22. Hello, here's a thing I've been working on and off for some time now. Started off a as drift car in 1/11th scale, but then just flowed down into a simple street tuner build. Itasha definition from Wikipedia - In Japan, an itasha is a car decorated with images of fictional characters of anime, manga, or video games. Features: Openable scissor doors, bonnet and boot NOS and TV screen in the boot Interior with steering wheel, bucket seats, "rollcage" and audio system. "Engine cover" with turbo and honeycomb airfilter RC via BuWizz Drive with 2x buggy motors from fastest output Steering with m-motor Custom graphics of C.C. from Code Geass (linked in my signature) as well as sparco, koni and buwizz "sponsor" decals Sorry for crappy photos, only have smartphone at hand. I'll try to film it driving indoors or sneak into the building's hallway today or tomorrow. Cya!
  23. Hi, As a winter project I'm working on a 4WD RC buggy. It will be heavily inspired by @agrof's Class 1 Ultimate Buggy, for I very much like the behaviour and the looks of that model. With this model I will also deliver to my promise to @DugaldIC to make an RC model. I was planning on finishing this MOC without a WIP topic, but I simply can't work without the feedback . It will have 4 L-motors and 1 servo motor. No buggy motors, for I will be using current-date parts only. Control will be done with SBrick. Sofar I have been working on the axles. The rear axles are very much inspired by agrof's model, but this time everything relies on perfect fits. They rely on the Pythagorean triple (5,12,13). The front axles are my very own addition to this model: 2 L-motors are integrated in the double-wishbone setup. Making everything rely on perfect fits, is one of my main challenges. The second challenge is to make everything relevant form-locked. And of course the model needs to perform. All wheel hubs are turn-table/u-joint based: Sofar I have only been designing digitally, but I did check the most essential constructions in real life already. I will show progress when ever I have something to show. If you have any comments, feel free to reply. I'm new to motorized building so I can use some feedback.
  24. Hello All, It has been ages since I shared something on here, even though I visit daily to see everyone else's builds. However, 'recent events' have given me more time to build. I haven't been idle these last couple of years, but nothing I made rose to the level of sharing. The following buggy has four unrestricted 5292 motors, at 12.6 volts, going to the rear wheels and only weighs 1400 g. This makes it hard to handle for the inexperienced driver. The rubber bands on the rear control arms keep the ball sockets from coming apart. The lower arms are different from the upper ones due to the change in position of the joints on the swing arm through the suspension cycle. This also creates a rather nice camber curve. I also discovered a weakness in the stiff springs. The upper mount will shear off of the side of the shock body if it is used. Many of my shocks have stress fractures there. I've got to clean the thing up now, it is covered in mud. I wonder who did that. Question, concerns, comments, or relevant war stories? v/r Andy
  25. This is my first post that I was so confused about which theme I should post in: train? technic? scale modeling? I finally choose train tech just because it's a train after all If I made a mistake that put it in the wrong place, please forgive me. Actually I created a MOC train that is a 1:35 scale model and also with technic internal though it looks like ordinary stud-built. It's a model but not only looks look. It should be able to do something like the real one. 1, Origin It won't be happy if a man never creates something. Since my kid likes train toys very much, I start to focus on rail transportation. I found Lego's official sets are quite compromised since they need to match the mass need. The traditional scale train models are normally small and very expensive which is also hard to get in China especially one delicate like Marklin(okay, it's because of the price). We are AFOL, so I must have a scale train model, not a toy. 2, about type Targeting train is also in very straightforward logic. I am ready to build "Dora" (Heavy Gustav) as the showdown to my kid. I will tell him nothing is necessarily built on the rail after completion of this ultimate rail machine of all the time in history. Heavy Gustav cannot move by itself, I need locomotives. yes, before any creation on the rail, the locomotive is the prerequisite. That would be very clear, D311 diesel-electric locomotive was specialized built for "Dora" by Krupp. Two groups of double D311 drive "Dora" to move with each on two four-axis chassis. pic1: D311/V188 in WWII D311 WWII by Nash Liu, on Flickr 3, Scale It is a scale model that also needs to run on standard 9V track. The scale bases on the gauge of track known as L-gauge scale that is between 1 and O gauges. I choose 1:35 because there are the most resources of 1:35 Military models When TAMIYA continually push this scale. pic2: a scratch build D311 static model with 1/35 Scratch Build 1/35 D311 Model by Nash Liu, on Flickr 3, Exterior The ordinary stud brick build is always more graceful and beautiful showing than technic build. There is no weird gap and abstract design like technic exterior. However, the stud brick is not flexible to show various details and often takes up a lot of space. SOT can show as one stud, but SNOT often has to spend 2 studs to show different details. If Lego develops more special bricks and plates for combination and detail showing, the precision of the Lego model will be up to another level. Maybe Lego's official target is only toy. pic3: what this lego train model looks like(I don't have enough unicolor bricks, so I post computer rendering graph) MOC D311 Diesel Electric Locomotive 1:35 Exterior by Nash Liu,on Flickr 4, Interior Beside exterior, the model is ensouled by the functions that should be capable like its true body. D311 is the most powerful locomotive at that time, so the model also should be the most powerful train in the lego universe. pic4: super compact technic design with 4 motors that are parts of load-bearing MOC D311 Diesel Electric Locomotive 1:35 Interior by Nash Liu, on Flickr 5, Extreme Design What is an extreme design? Simply speaking, it is not a waste of one stud. Designers are very likely to MOC without limits. We can often find super complex and magnificent masterpieces on the web. But the model should have confine, at least confined by scales and functions. From the above, I list the following features. 1, Dual XL motors 2, Dual stepper motors for clutch and gearbox 3, Dual 8881 battery boxes that contain 12 AA batteries for the enormous duration 4, 2-speed gearbox 5, differential adder for XLs coupling 6, clutch between 8x8 and 8x4 driven 7, bogie integrated driven system pic5: a prototype that shows adder, XLs, steppers, and general structures Prototype PowerFunction D311 by Nash Liu, on Flickr 6, work with its couple The ultimate Gustav is still a blueprint in my brain. Many guys including me are curious that what they look like when Gustav is moving in history. I build GCs and PS with an appropriate scale. the model of Gustav is 1:72 normal design. I scale down D311 to match 1:35 by PS(Sorry, who can tell me which CAD can change design size by scale?) I CANNOT wait to build 1:35 with extreme design. Although the specification is not clear yet, one thing I can make sure and a super exciting feature is how to make this giant millipede turn on Lego standard track. It should be very magnificent. Heavy Gustav with 4 D311 by Nash Liu, on Flickr