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Found 495 results

  1. Dear all. Allow me to introduce my latest MOC which was in development long time now, its supposed to be scaled replica of CLAAS Torion 1914 wheel loader from CLAAS company in 1:17 Scale. The reason why i chose this moc was due to lack of other "colour" machinery in this segment and also being kind of specific wheeloader for agrocultural sphere which i love. Claas Torion 1914 is colaboration with Liebherr on joint wheelloader project, Liebherr version is L550 and up. Model is combination of technic chassis and functions with system easthetics. Over 2000 pieces and 4 motors of Control + type allows for good looks and good playability, althrought a bit limited by weaker PU motors compare to PF, i chose PU to get in new wave of tech + easier and cheaper accesibility on market as the PF functions are getting more expensive. Functions are provided by 3x L PU motor and 1x XL PU motor Driver 1x XL Steering 1x L Pneumatics #1 1x L Pneumatics #2 1x L Each L motor serves for pump and switch together by sariel pump/switch combo, but modified to suit my needs in this build. there are two 6L pumps connected to each motor without any air tank so the actions are not so snappy and responsive and it all depends on the power of motors and batteries. due to this i am seriosly considering upgrading to Buwizz 3.0 to see if it will make it perform better and faster. I don't usually know what more to type about the MOC so i will answer every question in comments section if i will be able. Enjoy the photos (video later today)
  2. Hello Eurobricks! Here is a Blue Mamba V2 - a wild mix of energy and rigidity. The story begins. Several months ago I build a fast off-roader for the King Of The Hammers competitions. The main idea behind that car was the minimalistic transmission. Well, there were now gears in the transmission, but there were CV-joints at the front axle and they were very weak! There was no way to fix that problem until one Russian AFOL comes with the custom wheel hubs with metal bearings and metal U-joints! These hubs allow to use a variety of RC wheels with 12 Hexes. Awesome! I purchased a set of custom hubs, and started the development of the Blue Mamba V2. Before diving into details I want to highlight another principal change in V2 project. V1 Mamba was powered by Buwizz 3.0 unit, but it drowned with my mid-scale trophy truck this spring. So for V2 Mamba I bought a custom Lego-compatible compatible RC controllers “Wixy” provided by another Russian AFOL. These controllers allowed me to use all benefits of GeekServo and Powerful 3S Lipo with 2600 mAh capacity. Bodywork. The car has a minimalistic bodywork. All panels used as structural elements. There is a plenty of space for the cockpit if one would sort all the wirings. The only decorative element is a fake V6 engine located behind the cockpit. Currently I have no PF motor available to make the engine work, but I keep in mind such possibility. Drivetrain. Blue Mamba V2 is a true E-vehicle with 4 PF L-motors powering each wheel independently without any transmission. Custom wheel hubs with metal bearings and metal U-joints make the transmission totally undestroyable. My goal was to minimize the width of the car. But the complexity of the front axle provided a lot of restrictions, so I had to widen front axle by 2 studs comparing to V1 Mamba. V1 Mamba has a steering motor located in the cockpit and linked to the front axle with new CV-joints. I replicated same configuration to the V2, but driving tests revealed big wobbling of the steering system, so I decided to place a GeekServo on the front axle (luckily it is very compact). A small regret is that GeekServo is not powerful enough for this wide and grippy RC wheels, It can not return them back if the car does not move. Likely, a positive caster angle of the front axle helps to back steering when car moves. Suspension. Mamba has 3-Link bridges at both axles with heavy-duty suspension arms. I had many attempts with the spring attachment. Finally, I understood that a responsive suspension requires a direct mounting of springs to the axles. 9.5 L shocks has very good springs (comparing to the soft 9.5 L one), but they were too hard for the car because all motors were placed on axles. An interesting idea came to my mind: why don`t you place these shocks diagonally? It works like a charm! Control. Car has a low center of gravity due to the placement of motors and 3S Lipo batteries. In addition, it has a proper wheel base and grippy tires, which makes the car very stable. Accuracy of GeekServo and RC transmitter provide a very smooth driving experience (though a stronger servo motor would improve the performance). Finally, 4WD helps to go through any terrain, such as sand, grass, etc… The top speed of the car is about 8.5 - 9 km/h. So it is very interesting to play with it outdoors and take it for a walk, since it has enough speed to drive back and forth while person walks. I tested this car with 120 mm RC wheels. The motors have enough power to handle and increased load while all the other plastic components (such as steering elements) were struggling a bit... On my opinion, 95-100 mm wheels are the optimal solution for fast outdoor cars. From one hand they provide a decent ground clearance and able to roll over the bumps. From the other hand they does not provide a lot of stress to the Lego parts. ' Conclusion. After multiple outdoor tests I conclude, that Blue Mamba V2 is the perfect Lego car, which is capable to go through any terrain with decent speed. It is strong and efficient and very controllable vehicle, which is pleasure to drive! Though It is too fast for trial. It is hard to go 2 km/h balancing between obstacles and barriers. But this is not a disadvantage, simply because each vehicle has it`s own areas of use. P.S. Speaking about Wixy Some of you wanted to know more about "Wixy" setup. So I placed all the component on the desk and marked them as follows: Wixy units RC receiver 3S Lipo PF motors Geek servo "Wixy" unit plays a role of an RC ESC unit, and it connects to the other electronic components in the same way: B-cable transmit the power from Li-Po batteries to the bottom PF connector (input) of Wixy units. A-cable feeds an RC receiver for Wixy units and translates the controlling signal at the opposite direction. Unusually for drive the "Channel 2" is reserved. PF motors get connected to the top PF connector (output) of Wixy units. GeekServo gets connected to the receiver. Two Wixy units provide enough power to feed GeekServo, otherwise I can plug and extra power from one of B-cable outputs (there is one specific 3-pin one). At the second picture all components are connected. It is important to note, that a Single "Wixy" unit can transmit only 3A to the motors, but it is the maximal power which PF connectors can handle . So you have to use one unit per Buggy motor. Luckily, 3S Lipo as an enormous amount of power, so it can handle 10 Buggy motors easily! Hope I cleared out the "Wixy" setup for you, but if you have any questions left, do not hesitate to ask them!
  3. Hello everyone. This is a story of my mid-scale RC baja truck called “Phantom”. The beginning. I always had a strong desire to go fast. For that reason I made my Red Roadster powered by Buwizz motors (See my Profile for dedicated post). But this sport car has one significant disadvantage - it requires a very smooth road! So I decided to build a trophy truck. I learned a lot about trophy trucks made with Lego. Best of them had 2 Buggy motors for propulsion with a direct connection to the rear wheels. So I decided to build myself a similar setup. First trophy truck I designed in big scale (~1:10) but Buwizz motors were struggling with a load from big wheels (and that is not a problem of motors, but a problem of construction). So I made a portal reduction and the problem was solved. After that I build an ultimate dune Buggy “Dragonfly” with independent suspension driven by couple of Buwizz motors. The result was great, Buwizz motors allowed to drive it very fast on 85 mm wheels. So I decided to build a trophy truck with them. Such wheel size is the smallest one which could be used outdoors. Smaller wheels does not provide enough of ground clearance to go full speed on bumpy terrain. Photos. Front axle. I started the build with the front suspension. A technical task was the following: - to use big Lego wheel hubs - double steering rack - positive caster angle - ridged suspension arms I took many ideas from the front suspension of my Dune buggy and tried to make it smaller. Dune buggy used 9,5 L shocks so I decided to change them to 7 L shocks. Also I was able to avoid ball connections, since they struggle a lot at bumpy roads. Here is the result. The steering motors should get connected to the vertical black axe (on the first picture). The key idea was to place steering arms horizontally and in a slight diagonal way. Such placement caused some friction in the steering system, but from the other hand it reduced the wobbling to ZERO! Also there is a 3 studs distance from the connection of steering arms to the wheel hub and the pivot point of the hub (see picture 2). It reduces the maximal steering angle, but strengthen the steering system and make the control smoother! Rear axle. A technical task was the following: - direct mounting of Buwizz motors to the rear axle - Long suspension arms and long travel - Suspension with progressive hardness I decided to make it simple without any articulation, though there was some provided by bending of plastic parts. There are two sets of springs used. Small vibrations of the rear axle get absorbed by a soft 9.5 springs, while hard bumps compress the rear axle stronger, so the set of 7 L springs does their job. Finally, there is a couple of Lego rubber elements which play a role of fenders. So there are three stages of compression. First stage. Soft settings. Second stage. Hard settings. Third stage. Rear axle touches the frame. Frame of the car and bodywork. A technical task was the following: - two layers of frame - use the roof of the car as structural element - minimalistic bodywork The space frame of the car consist of two layers. Roof of the car tighten the upper layer in order to bear the load from the rear springs. The middle compartment is dedicated to power sources. The "new" cross-beams (15L and 11L) were very helped a lot. The bodywork is made with several panels which can be easily detached for servicing the electronics. Electronics. On photos above you can see a custom Lego-compatible RC unit equipped with two high power cells 18650. It provides more power comparing to Buwizz 2.0, but it is not enough for two Buwizz motors. It get overheated quite fast (5-10 mins). One may ask me, why I use it. Actually, the first version of the Phantom was powered by two Buwizz 3.0 units, which provided a plenty of power to the car. But I managed to drown the car at first outdoor driving test! So I bought replacement for them since there was no possibility to purchase new Buwizz units in Russia. Here is the video of an accident: This month I bought a different Lego-compatible RC electronics from a Russian AFOL, it is called "Wixy". It plays a role of the controller for RC motors and allows to power my cars with 3S Lipos! WIth 3S Lipo I forgot about lack of power and was able to ride the Phantom for miles and miles... Conclusion. The car Is made for outdoor driving. It has a decent speed and a good control. Though there are several weak places of Phantom which can not be fixed with plastic Lego parts. The dust is very annoying, especially on county roads! It fills all holes of the car, most importantly plastic wheel hubs. I destroyed all the wheel hubs I own and there is no way of fixing the problem... Also the car has slight problems with ground clearance - it is acceptable for city roads but too small for stony surfaces. Finally, the Truck can not go trough the tall grass with such small wheels and RWD.
  4. Hello everyone, today I`m going to reveal to all of you my Red coupe MOC that I placed on my avatar ;-) A long long story begins There is a long story of development of this car. It starts with my childhood dream and the First Lego technic PF car (see ) (that I built in 2012). After I left my hobby for about 4-5 years. And then I returned with RC MOD of Chevrolet Corvette set (see ). After that I tried to deal with a big scale (1:10) by building an RC MOC of Porsche 911 RSR (see ) - that was a big challenge for me and required a significant upgrade of my lego workshop... At the very end of my story with Porsche, I get some ideas for a new car... but to build a car from that ideas took me 2 more months. The cassis and first ideas of the body I was developing a new RC chassis for my Porsche 911, it is a long process, you know... Finally, the chassis has been developed. It was built out of ideas and I was very pleased with it! I needed to add several mounting points to it in order to swap the body. The chassis was waiting for me on the next desk where I used to play lego and I was doing my everyday job on computer. Then suddenly, I looked up onto a shelf and noticed, that fenders from Land Rover set 42110 has a nice shape as a front grill! I checked my idea, and it worked! At that moment I realized that the story of a new car begins!... To build the back lights of the new car I use the old Bionicle heads! And made first lines of the roof and A-pillars After that the process stopped... New fenders from Ferrari set Process stopped... I was struggling a low with making the wheel arched for front wheels... the bonnet I made required me to make a very sport-like very slime and curved wheel arches. At the same time they needed to be sturdy enough for outdoor driving and also provide some space for the suspension travel... After a month of unsuccessful attempts I was ready to give up! But likely for me, the new Lego set Ferrari 42125 has arrived! I waited for another month for a "good" price since it was totally overpriced form the very beginning. The Ferrari fenders bring the new power to me. Also they provided the color for the car. To finish the bodywork in red I bought two Ducati sets their parts help me a lot! On the photo you can see the gorgeous moment of attachment of the side-panels to the car. After I solved the problem with fenders, the car was assembled piece by piece in such a way, that all my ideas nearly "provide" the form of the car and the part use. As you can see, the first prototype of a bonnet was lifted up to be a roof ;-). Some underlying ideas for bodywork: - Short front and back bumpers (comparing to the Porsche set) - Front grill with a fender from the Land Rover set - Narrowing door panels The car has no interior and no doors, since I was building an RC car. I was saving the weight. Final car with batteries (Buwizz) has a total weight of 1,5 kg. Photos of a finished car Hope you like it! After finishing the first version, I made a significant update of it. Now it is equipped with 2 powerful Buwizz motors and powered by 2 Buwizz 3.0 bricks. The total weight is 1,63 kg and the mass of the car is moved closer to the rear wheels for a better grip. All electronics is located in the lowest 5 studs of a car so it is very stable and quite fast (about 12 km/h) it is really fun to play. But you heed a flat areas since the ground clearance is about 2 studs (all in all it is a sport car). The suspension is independent and very responsive. I have no video to share for now and the winter has already come, so I will wait until spring! Now im 100% involved in 4x4 technic RC off-roaders.... P.S. I will try to make a OPDF instruction for my MOC, but it will take a lot of times. And if you have any questions, no not hesitate to ask me - the car was not disassembled and it is waiting for the warn and sunny days on a shelf ;-)
  5. Now for something completely different: A Spyder from the future - the Turbo Racer's AMC Ultra - and its opponent - the Police Interceptor MM Falcon PS (both based on @rm8's chassis for his AWD prototype) Now you can play Outrun - but for real! UPDATE: This series of RC cars will get updated in the future with new additions. UPDATE2: It was time for a logo and here it is (might be subject to change)
  6. Well the teardown of my Koenigsegg Regera is done, instructions are being tested and video is released. Huge thanks to my brother Lachlan Cameron for your amazing teardown photos and killer video edit. Thanks to Justin Wong for being the Guinea pig for the build and your patch notes along the way. Hey all, soo it's been a very long while since I've posted anything. Probably over two years now, however I have been busy in my spare time. For over two years now I've been working on the Koenigsegg Regera. By far my most challenging build to date, especially considering I've been working on Both and HOG and an RC at the same time. The HOG will be Dark Azure/Black centre with White accents and interior. So may I present to you the Regera, it's still a work in progress but everything is pretty well there. It's missing seats, stickers and a few things need adjusting but for the most part it's all there. This car will be on display at the Bricks in the Six Lego convention this weekend so I thought I'd share some early pictures before ones get taken and shared from the show. As always there will be a Video and instructions to follow. But first I need to get the HOG model finished as well. Either way here's some pictures a list of functions. The drivetrain is simple, on the RC it's just drive and steer, no gearbox as the real car is direct drive. 4 L motors for drive and one servo for steering, with a fake V8 in the back, the suspension is where it starts to get interesting, the rear is triplex suspension, unequal length control arms, with integrated sway bar like the real thing, the front is also unequal length suspension, cantalievered with torsion bar and sway bar, the front also raises and lowers a stud and when raising up flaps under the front valance deploy and tuck back up when the car lowers back down. The interior the seats slide and recline, the steering moves up and down in the centre console there's a lever which is a brand new concept which allows you to switch between opening, the left door, the right door, or both doors at the same time. Now when you're opening those doors which are Synchro dihedral the mirrors will fold in as the doors open out and upwards just like the real car. The front and rear clam shells will open as well and there's a lever in the back which will allow you to open the front, the back or both at the same time. On the rear clamshell is the rear wing which is on a cam that raises upward and outward and raises out of the back. The roof is removable like the real car, and can store underneath the front clamshell while still leaving enough room for a tote bag. There's also a manual and an RC model the manual model has two gears the dash the first is to open the doors, and the other to steer. The RC model has drive and steering that's hooked up to the fake V8, the doors and the clam shells are also motorized being able to switch between the front and rear or both at the same time. It also has LED lights front and rear. So overall this is a very in-depth detailed and accurate model in sense of functions.
  7. Finally finished a first version of a LEGO RC Car with 2 in-wheel, brushless motors. While I know some of you hate the combination of RC electronics and LEGO, others enjoy these hybrid models (hence this post). If you are more the purist type and in favour of LEGO only, please skip this. If you like stretching the envelope using (RC) electronics please have look and let me hear your thoughts. While searching for brushless in-wheel motors I ran into the ideal product: Turnigy Multistar 4225-610Kv. It mounts easily onto LEGO (same measurements) and fits almost any 56-rim. The result is spectacular. Great speed, no wear-out, all traction goes to the wheels, no gears necessary. Sadly, it turns out this motor is no longer available (working on an alternative). Car also includes an (adjustable) software differential running on an Arduino Nano, works surprisingly well. When fully applied the car has serious oversteer, when turned to 0 the car has understeer. The body of the car is a 54100 modified boat hull . It took some cutting but ended up nicely. Please have a look at the video here:
  8. I'd like to share my most recent model - 1:10.5 replica of 1969 Ford Mustang Boss 429. Boss 429 was the high performance variant of first generation Mustang, equipped with a powerful 7.0 V8 engine. Only 1359 were made, and now there is one more :D Watch it in all its glory: Functions: RC drive - RWD with differential, 2x L motors RC transmission - 4 speeds, sequential, M motor Detailed V8 engine replica with fan connected directly to propulsion motors RC steering - with moving steering wheel, M motor Front suspension - double wishbone Rear suspension - floating axle Openable hood with lock controlled from the cabin Openable doors with locks Openable trunk Adjustable seats (sliding forward - backward and seatback angle adjustment) RC front lights Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. I am quite happy with how I managed to include all the functions without compromising on proportions and interior in a relatively small model (46cm long). The biggest challenges were to fit piston engine over the suspension with the blue air intake under the hood without lifting it (as the result I had to make the hood hollow below the external air intake but still it was tight) and to fit interior over the gearbox. For that purpose I made the transmission very flat with gear shifting shaft actually crossing the drive shaft... (can be seen in action in the video - 2:30) I hope you liked this model.
  9. i just created some Lego battlebots maybe im hosting a little competition in Singapore during December holidays so far i have made a literal tank of a battlebot (brick on the floor with rotating cylinder) and it works decently here is it going against a smaller bot thats the fight of 3 rounds also the smaller one got completely demolished lol
  10. Hey folks, I want to share with you one of my current projects, the RC Superbikes. It is another of those self-balancing motorcycles, but has some nice additional specs which might have considered to not work in the brick-universe. Unluckily I couldn't finish the superbike project this summer, final highspeed runs will have to take place in the next summer to have some warm tarmac again for giving some additional grip. Specs Scale 1/6.5 Weight ~650g Single swingarm construction for the rear wheel Working transmission via chain Powered by Buwizz 3 Two buggy motors 1x Custom 5L Liftarm made out of aluminium with a ballbearing included Theoretical topspeed should be astonnishing 62 km/h, basing on the 2500 rpm with BW3 at 12V peak (which by its scale would translate into 403 km/h) Real world maximum speed may be lower due to physics kicking in (wobble, weave) Pictures All together Kawasaki H2R - black/chrome Kawasaki H2R - white/green (tuned BuWizz Edition) Ducati Panigale V4R Honda CBR1000RR FireBlade Videos Videos related to the RC Superbike Series can be found in my Youtube playlist: What are your thoughts?
  11. This is probably optimistic, but I am in the planning stage of building a massive landship /vehicle transporter. I do plan to build it for real after I complete the studio model. These are the functions I would like to have. The 1st pic is certain - drive, steer, lift. The 2nd pic are functions that would be nice to have - secret door and crane. The 3x19 frames are just to show the distance. This is what i have so far: This all started when I saw this video in my YouTube feed. Then a little while later this came up and so then I wanted to make my own version of a landship In more detail. This is the rear axle: This is the lift mechanism in more detail. The backboard of the lift would be removed for the secret door to have vehicle storage under the deck a bit like an aircraft carrier: Also feel free to suggest a better name for the vehicle. I am keen for suggestions and feedback. Thank you for taking the time to read this.
  12. I have finally found the time to finish this MOC of a Morooka tracked dumper. It is loosely based on the Morooka MST 2200VD. The model is controlled using an S-brick and powered by the regular lego technic power functions battery box. Each track is driven by an PF L motor with a 1:1 ratio, giving the model plenty of speed and enough torque to drive over obstacles etc. Dumping is also motorized using a PF L motor driving a linear actuator. The battery box is hidden under the openable hood, and can be easily accessed and removed (although a lot easier if the dumpbed is up :)) Other functions include an openable door and a lock for the gate on the dumpbed, that opens if you dump. I tried to make a video but you guys will have to wait a bit longer because my baby is making a lot of noise in the background so I have to make a new one sometime when he is asleep :) Edit: made a new video - the period in the beginning when nothing happens is when the buwizz in the tractor fails to connect Some more pictures: Let me know what you think!
  13. Hi Guys, Here to share my RC MODs and MOCs, wish you like them. Please comment below. Thanks! Bricks Studio/mocs/ [Full RC] LEGO Technic 42143 Ferrari Daytona SP3 Power functions -BuWizz 3.0 x1 -Driving: PF XL motor x2 -Steering: PF Servo motor x1 - Doors: PU M motor x2 - Engine cover: PU M motor x1 [RC] LEGO Technic 42141 McLaren F1 + 1 BuWizz 3 + 2 BuWizz Motors + 1 PU L Motor [RC] LEGO Technic 42130 BMW M 1000 RR controlled by BuWizz App [RC] LEGO Technic 42125 Ferrari 488 GTE + 1 BuWizz 3 + 2 BuWizz Motors + 1 PU L Motor [Full RC] LEGO Technic 42115 + BuWizz 3.0 / BuWizz motor / PU L & M motor [RC] LEGO Technic 42115 Lamborghini Sian with BuWizz 2.0 [Full RC] LEGO Technic 42110 + 1 BuWizz 3 + 2 BuWizz Motors + 2 PU L Motors [RC] LEGO Technic 42110 RC Land Rover Defender with BuWizz 2.0 [RC] LEGO Technic 42083 + BuWizz 3.0 / BuWizz motor / PU L motor [RC] LEGO Technic 42083 Bugatti Chiron with BuWizz 2.0 My alternative F1 MOCs were made by 42083/42110/42115, [MOC] LEGO Technic 42125 Ferrari F1 Car [RC] LEGO Technic 42115 RC Lamborghini F1 car
  14. I started playing around with the idea of European style semi truck again. I built a prototype to test the chassis design with motors side by side. The core idea here is that both motors are oriented towards back so you can put the medium Technic frame on top of them as well as have cables managed up front. EDIT: final version of the semi: Instructions: (Semi Tractor) (Box Trailer) The first iteration/prototype: Prototype showcase: It'll take some time before I'll finish the whole semi truck build, but I prepared the instructions for the chassis so you can build it. Instructions are available for free on Rebrickable: Sneak peek of the instructions:
  15. Some might still remember this offroader I started sometime ago in 2019 and showed earlier versions in the 8081 mods thread a while ago. Well, I finally "finished" it now and created digital models for it. I call it the COMMANDO and it is "sold" by MM (Mars Motors). People that follow my Turbo Racers series and my series of 42093 scale cars with swappable engines should already know MM. To show its capabilities I made a trip to a special location and examined what it can do there. Have a look into the video to see what it possible: The configuration in this video has all axles locked and uses the drivetrain variation #2 (see below). The COMMANDO started as the glorious 8081 A model and went through lots of modifications - especially to the front and rear axles and also to the outer hull - on the way to the final result. I created three versions so far: with 1 x PF AA battery box with 2 x PF AAA battery boxes with BuWizz 2.0 ...from which the BuWizz one was used during the video and also most of the time I drove it so far. Here are a few more detailed pictures showing it in that terrain: Here are two pictures showing the chassis construction (click to magnify): ...and here are the three drivetrain variations that can be used (click to magnify) More variations are possible and the gearing can be changed with relative ease, as the motors are not an integral part of the construction: #1 is used for the PF versions and #2 is used for the BuWizz version. #3 can be used to examine the effects of open differentials in offroad situations. The COMMANDO can use various tyres and clearance should be good enough for all of them: 45982 81.6 x 38 R Balloon tyres 18450 81.6 x 44 R (Tumbler) tyres 69912 81 x 35 Tractor (Zetros) tyres I have also already designed a few addons that will be released at a later time - need to create the digital models first - and I have even more ideas for it. So far I have available: front winch rear PTO exploration gear tracks So stay tuned for additions. I hope you like the COMMANDO and I hope it is a worthy successor to the 8081 A model. If you're interested, the - free of charge - digital models (Studio files with detailed steps and submodels) and more pictures are available on Rebrickable:
  16. I Everybody! This is an RC version of LEGO 42104 Race Truck. Motorization is controlled by pybricks program Remote Bla Bla, so controlling is done by the LEGO Handset, no need for a mobile phone device. It was fun to include a hub and two motors in such a small scale, although the driving motor is kind of outboard. At the beginning it feels a bit clumsy compared to the original set but one gets used to it. It's a cute little truck! Steering at this scale is a bit wobbly, but it works fine enough. I wonder how it would be with the Small Angular Motor for steering. Probably both motors could fit... but I don't have one. Steering motor is embedded in the chassis. Drive motor is outboard in the rear. Two configurations are presented: Simple Drive Mode: Drive motor with two modes:on and off Steped Drive Mode: Drive motor with seven power steps More pictures in bricksafe; Instructions in rebrickable; Remote Bla Bla in github; Some pictures: and a video: Have fun!
  17. In an attempt to create an RC LEGO motorbike, I had to figure out a steering method. Moving a weight from left to right was (successfully) done before, but I couldn't find LEGO bikes with counter-steering. Inspired by the videos of many real RC bike lovers, I came up with this LEGO-ish implementation. It's not for LEGO purists, it contains modified parts. But it demonstrates pretty nice how counter-steering works and how it can be implemented on a LEGO bike (using a servo). I therefore thought it might be of interest to some of you. If modifying LEGO parts makes you sick, please skip this video. If you enjoy creating new parts (out of other LEGO parts), great! Let me hear your thoughts. On this matter, I personally start to enjoy the use of custom springs more and more (will do a separate video on this subject) and ... I'd love to make a case for an axle with one ball socket. Together with a (custom) spring, can be used in almost any vehicle for suspension or anything else. Have a look at the video and you'll see what I mean. Was an essential element to create this steering. Enjoy watching, looking forward to hear your comments.
  18. Let´s start with brand new model for the LEGO Technic Challenge. A 29 cm tall figure of American astronaut with moving wrists, elbows and shoulders. The helmet is equipped with two PF lights and both arms are operated by PF M motors. The model is remote controlled and powered by rechargeable LEGO battery.
  19. My entry for TC22: Wille Loader Based on Wille Machines 35L x 13W x 17H = 7735, stud^3 Features: - Drive (L-motor) - Articulated steering (M-motor + 2x linear actuator) - Bucket lift (L-motor) - Bucket tilt (L-motor) - Front and rear lights (2x LED) - LiPo-battery - 2x IR-receiver Video: More photos: Rebrickable page: Sorry for being late, got really lost in time. Thanks the admins for letting me join anyway
  20. So I've been contemplating what to build for the contest as the volume restrictions is something that should fall exactly in my area of expertise, but with RC allowed, it got a bit complex. To fully handle a crane or excavator you need 5 or 6 motors, so either two hubs or something like buwizz 3.0 which supports 6 motors, and I'm not really sure if I'll be able to fit all that perfectly within the specified volume while not making it a messy build. So I decided to stick to stuff that I can power with a single hub, and I love the ease of use of physical remote from CADA so I ended up deciding to go with a tracked vehicle + two mechanical functions, so after looking at multiple options I decided to pick a tracked skid-steer loader - a bobcat: I like this one because it has an interesting geometry of the arms, which I expect to be there in order to prevent the bucket getting closer to the cab while the arms are getting raised. I yet have to test this theory. Here's a concept / design so far: I tested the geometry of the arm against keeping the bucket at same angle while the arm is changing its angle, assuming the lever holding liftarm over the arm has fixed angle, and it works more or less. I don't have a bucket yet, and I've got to figure out the driving connection for it that has a significant gear reduction as well as it should have some safety like clutch gear, but I'm not sure if it is a good idea considering weight of the bucket. I'm not 100% sure that I'll be able to go with the design of the arm that is supported by that liftarm to move forward/keep horizontal position of the bucket, especially because of the requirements for the bucket tilt lever connection to the motor. Additional note here is that the tracks are shaped in a way that rear gears one exactly above each other because I couldn't achieve optimal track tension in other configurations and also I would have to make more space for the attachment of linear actuators behind the tracks and it would complicate the base structure. Finally I might end up with arms hitting the cab, so maybe I'll have to move them by 1 stud to the sides, which would made the proportions weird, but I don't think I'll be able to shrink the cab without showing a mess of cables.
  21. im finally done with my tank moc! i hope you like it if possible like and share it on insta & facebook (links below) it comes with a detachable trailer and a 3DOF arm thanks @thealvacado for the arm I've improved the bracing of the 8 tooth to the 40 tooth gears as they were constantly popping out also changed positioning of some things there is a 4 pin connector on the end so that its much easier to change the attachment on the end I hope you like it :) spent quite a while making this
  22. DRAGONFLY Dune Buggy Hello everyone! For a very long time I had a dream to build a dune buggy, and finally, my dream come true! The main goal was to use a C+ electrics instead of Buwizz unit. Of course, I am not the first who attempted to build a buggy. I take an inspiration in Madoca`s Blue Lightning buggy. Technical specifications: - Light and ridged tubular bodywork - electrics form 42099 set (controlled with C+ app for 42099) - Long-travel independent suspension - positive caster angle on the front wheels - Long wheel for stability on the straigt lines - Double steering rack and steering arms reduce wobbling of the steering system - understeering feature (rear wheels get more grip) - RC tires 90 mm Buggy performed well, comparing to the 42124 set. It appears to be a car that is very comfortable to play with. The speed of the buggy allows you to walk with your normal speed in the park driving it at the same time! Here is a small video of my first tests: As I said, the main goal of this project was to use C+ electrics. But after that I decided to boost it with buggy motors! The overview of the car does not change much. Rear wheels get a positive caster angle, and wheel size was reduced from 90 mm to 85 mm (for reducing speed and increasing torque). Here is a short video with Buwizz-powered Dragonfly. I will definitely make another video about this car then the summer comes.
  23. I would like to present the result of my Winter-project. A big thank you to everybody who supported me in the corresponding WIP-topic and of course to @DugaldIC for challenging me! Instructions are available on Rebrickable. Features: Turn-table-based wheel-hubs with minimal slack 4WD by means of 4 L-motors powered by two BuWizz 2 units Fully independent suspension Steering with Servo-motor 30 degree steering angle with Ackermann geometry Caster angle Fake V8-engine driven by M-motor Can handle a rough ride Liftable by roof, nose and tail Everything in-system Stats: Parts #: 1844 Weight: 1980gr Length: 54 studs Width: 35 studs Height: 23 studs I hope this will pull @Blakbird back into Technic . Some stills from video-material. And finally a few short videos.
  24. After 42099 and the whole new PU system, I'm here with a MOC that uses something a bit older - RC system. After all these years it is still the most powerful 100% LEGO solution. Watch it in all its glory: Features: RC drive - 2x RC motor, geared 3:1 (slower output) RC steering Front suspension - double wishbone, soft, long travel, positive caster angle, 7 stud ground clearance Rear suspension - floating axle, soft, long travel, 5.5 stud ground clearance Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. I hope you liked this model.
  25. Hey, Eurobricks! In this post I want to tell you about one of my latest MOCs, called Blue Mamba. It was made for outdoor King of the Hammers competition. Unlikely I was not able to participate in the competition this year, but I am not disappointed because it is very fun to drive this car. Main features 4-wheel drive In-axe motors (one PF L-motor for each wheel) 2 x Buwizz 3.0 units for power RC tires 97 mm Bodywork The race vehicles used at the King of the Hammers are known as Ultra 4 vehicles. This Ultra4 class is unlimited 4400, and every vehicle is custom fabricated by each team. Most of the vehicle made with metal tubular frame and plastic body panels. I tried to replicate the bodywork to match the real prototypes. Black pieces imitate a tubular frame of the car. Side panels and the hood are the structural elements of the chassis. The total weight of the car is about 1,280 grams. Half of the weight (4x PF L-motors) is located in axes, this is not good for the dynamics of the car at big speeds, but helps a lot in trial. Steering motor and Buwizz units are located in the cockpit. It is possible to lower them, so there is a reason to revisit the chassis once again. Suspension The rial race combines desert racing and rock crawling. So the Lego version of the race combines high-speed and trial sections. For good performance in trial Blue Mamba has a free articulation of a rear axe. The string are placed on the middle link, so rear axe can suspend jumps. Front axe has a limited articulation for a good control at high speed. Drivetrian Ultra4 vehicles has both powerful engine and the gearbox which allows to drive fast on straight lines and slow on rock-crawling segments. But Lego gearboxes has a significant disadvantage - a huge loss of torque. So I decide to place the motors in axes. This gives nearly zero losses, but has it`s own disadvantage: an extremal load on the CV joints which connects front motors to the wheel hubs. There is no way to deal with in without widening the wheel base and adding the portal reduction.. I hope some day Lego will make a new hubs that connects to new CV joints (without planetary reduction). In-axe motor placement provides some restrictions to the size of axes. I tried to maximize the ground clearance. Big wheels partially solve the problem. The resulting ground clearance in not big as one the cars with portal hubs has, but it is comparable to the ground clearance of cars with front independent suspension (there were several competitors with such configuration). Also it is worth noting that front and rear axes does not stick out from the side profile of the wheels, so Blue Mamba has great approach and decent angles. Control and Power The car is powered by two Buwizz 3.0 units. Powerful lego cars usually have a big problem. They can not go on a full speed for a continuous time since the driving motors consume a lot of power. I build many cars powered Buwizz 3.0 units. And I noticed that 2 Buwizz motors or 4 PF L-motors consume more power then the battery can give (in continuous drive). A good example of a car with 4 L-motors and 1 Buwizz unit is my Jeep Wrangler. To deal this problem, I places two units in the Blue Mamba. This doubles the travel range of the car and allows to drive Blue Mamba on full speed during the race. But multiple tests show that 1 Buwizz unit is enough for this car, since there are no losses in the transmission (in the first video car is powered by a single Buwizz unit). For steering a C+ L-motor is used. It is placed in a cockpit in between Buwizz units. Small scrab-radius, positive caster angle and proportional steering provide a good control of a car. Summary The competition has passed, and I there is a video on youtube: This allows me to compare my car with the other competitor cars. I would not win the race but perform good. I will look for the next King of the Hammers competition and prepare Blue Mamba to it. The following changes will be made: Buwizz units will be replaced with RC electrics The cockpit will be lowered for few studs The wheel base will be lengthened for 4-6 studs (to prevent the car from flips at high stairs in trial) I made a 3D model of Blue Mamba, but I have no motivation for making PDF instructions since Rebrickable does not work for me nowadays... Hope everything will be changed soon! Now we can only wait and play Lego!