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Found 326 results

  1. Lego RC E-100 super heavy tank by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr I have been busy with my latest model, the WWII German prototype vehicle E-100. This one being my second rendition of it since 4 years ago, when I started building MOCs. This one is smaller and greatly improved scale accuracy. more information and photos on my blog. http://tommystyrvoky.blogspot.com/2018/02/e-100-super-heavy-tank.html instructions https://www.rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-13061/TommyStyrvoky/rc-e-100-super-heavy-tank/#comments The process of rendering all of the animations for this video took some time, as I rendered all of this on my laptop, the end result, each frame requiring about 5 minutes at only 720p , and well there are a few thousand frames rendered for the animations, and I also completely redid my channel outro with the new PBR shaders from Meccabricks. Lego RC E-100 super heavy tank by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr And after all of that time rendering I realized that I forgot to include the second turret hatch... This is probably one of my most accurate vehicles so far, given the constraints of lego, and the mechanical challenges. Though I am still striving to do better in the future. Lego RC E-100 super heavy tank by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr and a comparison with blueprints from the real one. E-100 Blueprint overlay by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr
  2. Hey! Check out my Lego Boeing 737-600! Working: aileron, rudder, elevator, control column RC: flaps, slats, spoilers, landing gear, thrust reverser Length: 110 cm Wingspan: 125 cm Height: 40 cm Weight: 2,8 kg Video here:
  3. Hi everyone, Finally, I have finished a project which I was building since last September. It is the scale model of the Intrac 2011 snow blower which is/was often used in the swiss alps by the army and other communal parties. It was the aim to create another working snow blower after the success of the snow blower from last winter. The blower is powered by three buggy-motors which are all controlled by a separate Sbrick. Each track is driven by two PF XL motors. The snow blower shoot direction is controlled by two 9-volt micro motors and the height of the snow blower by one PF L motor. As power source I used two Buwizz as battery or a custom lipo battery. After a certain time in the cold I had the replace the Buwizz with the custom lipo battery. Cheers FT
  4. Baja Truck [MOC]

    Once i wanted to make a baja truck, and i failed. though as you should do in life, i stood up and tried again. and suddenly, i had a frame. and a 'little' later i had a baja truck. fuctions: Full suspension: Front; double wishbone (travel: 1.5 studs) Rear: live axle (travel: 5 studs) RTC steering (Servo motor) RWD (XL-motor) Full RC I started making a front suspension which had to be soft and a good height clearance and RTC stearing. After a while i had a very sturdy stearing module, so i started making the rear axle.The XL motor is mounted on the live axle. it has a 1.66:1 which gives it a speed of 243.4 RPM and 8.7 N.cm. of torque. I used the short steering link to make the suspension freëer then used the 3X5 L links to connect to the springs. The battery is pretty high above the center of mass, but it doesn't affect the performance weardly. the IR receiver is possitioned just under the widnshield which makes it pretty easy to reach. The body is made out of 3 pieces, The bumper, a nose scoop and the rest of the body. the body is connected in 14 points to the chassis, the scoop only at 2 and the bumper in 6 places. I might do instructions on the chassis, but i don't know if i will on the body (only if enough demand). Greetz TNLD more pictures:https://flic.kr/s/aHskvfPA6Y LXF file of the chassis: http://www.mediafire.com/file/2w3uet74f11bamk/Baja_Truck.lxf
  5. Here's my replica MOC of 42056 set: Porsche 911 GT3 RS in medium scale You can see many references to original set design and the Power Function system. Check the video: The model has: - PF: 2L, Servo, IRv2, LiPo - Full independent suspension - Floating differential at the rear - Opening doors, bonnet, trunk - Adjustable seats. The car is a pleasure to drive: It is quite fast and manoeuvre. Building Instructions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-12532/paave/porsche-911-gt3-rs/
  6. Here's a MOC on which I'm working since the end of the previous summer! After I have done the video of my DS3, I had the idea to do a new chassis with 4 wheel drive. I thought it would not be possible, but the first prototype was better than my DS3! Actually the MOC is not finished. The stickers are missing, and I'm continuing to develop the chassis (I'm adding a 4th L motor) Actually there are 1 L for the front, and 2 L for the rear. The great advantage of the 4WD is that it can take a great angle while turning, but it's always controllable. But, that can have an inconvenient: the understeering. For that, I did the same thing on the real RC drift cars: I added a free wheel. So when I do not accelerate, the front wheels are not braked and the car does not understeer. You can see this video on this video, done for BuWizz with Charbel. But this is one. It's the same thing, but there is only my car. The final gymkhana will be for the next summer, because that requires a lot of time, and with the school, I have not enough time at another moment of the year.
  7. This is the first non-contest MOC that I have posted. It started out as @Madoca 1977's Baja Trophy Truck. I think I originally got as far as mounting the engine when I first started. As I only have the long shocks in soft, I decided I needed to redesign how the suspension worked. I also added all-wheel drive, which significantly complicated the front end. As well as kingpin inclination. I spent a good amount of time trying to get Ackermann geometry, but could not get anything sturdy. That was almost a year ago. I shelved this project. Then my wife got me the Porsche, Claas, and a second SBrick.. And this is the result. The main frame and roll cage are the most similar to Madoca's. Since I have taken these pictures, have redesigned how the battery boxes are mounted. They attach to the frame and sit much lower into the truck. It is possible to take off the bodywork and roll cage and drive. I redesigned the rear axle so that the power sent to the front was from both sides, so that one set of l-motors was not power 3 tires. There is still some clicking in the front, but only when not driven on a flat surface. I had to reduce the gear ratio to 1:1.667. The differential at the rear acts as an adder and sends power to the front differential, and fake engine. The rear wheels are still driven directly by one pair of motors, each. I could not figure out a way, without buying shocks, to suspend the rear axle on the smaller shocks and still have plenty of travel. Until I found some small springs in my junk drawer. I have no idea what their strength is, but they get the job done. At full compression and fully turned, the front tires will touch the body. The body itself comes off in 4 pieces: each side, roof/hood, and front bumper. More pictures can be found in my Brickshelf folder at: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=571486 I will leave you with my favorite picture
  8. Ce set est fait pour etre en RC ! pour le LXF : part 22921 = part 27940 ! - 1 moteur L - 1 servomoteur - 1 batterie AAA - 1 récepteur infrarouge
  9. The 2017 Ford GT is effectively a GTE race car converted to road use. After the 2016 race car won at Le Mans, exactly 50 years after Ford's historic win with the GT40, they had to build some road cars for homologation purposes. These road cars have a 3.5-litre twin-turbo Ecoboost V6 producing 647 horsepower, and an extreme amount of downforce from the active rear wing, diffusers, front splitter and those gigantic flying buttresses on the sides. The interior is sparse to reduce weight. The initial allocation sold for around $500,000 each, and Ford received more than 5,000 applications for 500 cars. Getting hold of a car is extremely difficult, and even those who are successful must wait for several years to receive their car. The recent incident of Ford announcing that they would sue John Cena for selling his car (supposedly for profit) and breaking the terms of the contract is a testament to how sought-after this car is. After several months of rather intermittent building, I've finally finished what turned out to be a prime example of how not to manage a project. Anyhow, at least the car is finished so I can get to work on building something I'll hopefully enjoy more... Initially, I planned for this to be a fast RC vehicle, using every single motor that I own. That meant three EV3 Large motors, a PF XL and a PF L for drive, an EV3 Medium for the gearbox and a PF M for the steering. However, as I chased the GT's distinctive styling, the car got heavier, more fragile and closer to the ground. In the end, the car would barely move in anything other than 1st gear, and it would scrape its bodywork on the ground. That's what happens when you change tack mid-way though a build. However, at least I think I can call this my best-looking car model to date. The car has a 4-speed sequential gearbox mounted behind the rear axle to save space and take advantage of the car's huge overhangs. There is no suspension to reduce complexity and because the model is a little too narrow for an independent driven axle to fit. All the motors in the drivetrain are hard-coupled together (yes, I know it's a little naughty, but the gear ratios are closely matched and the stresses put on them by this are probably dwarfed by the load caused by driving the car uphill). The steered axle is extremely simple with just a little return-to-center mechanism. This is in order to leave enough space for the PF battery box under the bonnet. There was just about enough room to have a convincing-looking cabin and seats, although it is considerably smaller (compared to the size of the whole car) than in real life. The rear wing is mounted on a scissor lift system to raise or lower it - there wasn't much space over the gearbox so I had to resort to using those ugly yellow beams. The doors are hinged about the A-pillars in order to give that characteristic motion, opening both upwards and outwards. An elastic band puts some tension on the mechanism and keeps the door either in the closed or in the open position. Styling-wise, the Ford GT is quite a challenging car, but at least it is more angular than curved. I did my best to focus on the characteristic features: the two big vents on the bonnet, the giant side vents and flying buttresses, the red circular brake lights and the carbon sill running along the length of the sides, part of which lifts up with the doors. I don't have that many pieces, so I had to do a few colour-mismatches, but I tried to keep to the grey theme. In the end, the car is easily-recogniseable as a GT, and that's what counts to me. Here is a video showing pictures of the car and a time-lapse of building. Unfortunately there's no driving footage (it would be pretty underwhelming anyway), but you can see the opening of the doors and raising of the rear wing. Music is composed by me as usual. My next build will be what this one failed to be: an incredibly fast RC car. This time, I'm going for minimal bodywork and no gearbox.
  10. I've been a bit inactive on Eurobricks the past couple of weeks (partly due to making instructions for @Aventador2004's excavator, and making a MOC for a competition), so I thought I'd share a little tank I made to test the gamepad support that was recently added to the SBrick app: (which by the way, is awesome!) I used a 3rd-party Lipo battery to power the SBrick, which was placed between the two L-motors, and connected to the SBrick via a custom adapter cable: (the red thing in the photo below is part of it) It's quite a fun little thing to drive, and is nice and quick too: Some more photos:
  11. Hi, As a winter project I'm working on a 4WD RC buggy. It will be heavily inspired by @agrof's Class 1 Ultimate Buggy, for I very much like the behaviour and the looks of that model. With this model I will also deliver to my promise to @DugaldIC to make an RC model. I was planning on finishing this MOC without a WIP topic, but I simply can't work without the feedback . It will have 4 L-motors and 1 servo motor. No buggy motors, for I will be using current-date parts only. Control will be done with SBrick. Sofar I have been working on the axles. The rear axles are very much inspired by agrof's model, but this time everything relies on perfect fits. They rely on the Pythagorean triple (5,12,13). The front axles are my very own addition to this model: 2 L-motors are integrated in the double-wishbone setup. Making everything rely on perfect fits, is one of my main challenges. The second challenge is to make everything relevant form-locked. And of course the model needs to perform. All wheel hubs are turn-table/u-joint based: Sofar I have only been designing digitally, but I did check the most essential constructions in real life already. I will show progress when ever I have something to show. If you have any comments, feel free to reply. I'm new to motorized building so I can use some feedback.
  12. I' ve made a scale model of this russian all terrain vehicle. I've tried to make it as detailed as possible. Video: Functions: - 4x4 driveshaft with differentials (XL motor) - Steering: brakes that block wheels on one side of the vehicle. (M motor) - Working differential lock (M motor) - Working LEDs - Tires from 42054 - Openable front and rear hatches and windscreen, working wipers Everything is controlled remotely using SBrick. The drivetrain with differentials and portal axles: The steering mechanism is, I think, more interesting. Wheels on one side of the vehicle may be blocked using the driving ring. Than differentials transmits all the power to wheels on the other side. (that red connector represents driving ring) And the differential lock. The driving ring connects right and left differential outputs. And photos of side without wheels and the underside: Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. I hope you liked this model.
  13. «Mad Max for kids». I’d like to present a truck, named ‘Beast’, from the old Australian TV series ‘Thunderstone’ - XL for drive - Servo for steering - LED to lighten the cube + PF switch - LiPo for power - IR-receiver for remote control - Opening doors, trailer roof - Turning radar That's how the original one looks:
  14. This is my Volvo fh16 750 rc moc. The main goal was to create a huge 1:10 scale model with less funktions but very strong and fast for this size. the propulsion from lego dirt crusher is fixed long side and the batterybox is in the front
  15. Here is my attempt to miniaturize the 42065 set. I wanted to make it as small as i could and take the main features of the 42065, a set i do not own myself, but i might pick one up to compare. Since the rubber caterpillar tracks suited this scale perfectly they where on my "must haves" list, a simple bogie gives it the correct stance and track tension. In the next image you can see the chassis and bodywork opened up, it is powered by a small AAA battery box, receiver and 2 L-motors, it is fun to drive and stops for nothing! Now i was hoping on some feedback on the paneling, i have not made a lot of bodywork with panels before and was hoping to get some suggestions and/or tips and tricks! Of course any other suggestion or comment is welcomed as well!
  16. RC Trabant 601

    This is a MOC. It is built in scale 1:10. Features: Front wheel drive (L motor) Steering (servo motor) 4 speed sequential gearbox (M motor for changing gears) All wheel working drum brakes (1 M motor for front and 1 for rear wheels) Full independent suspension Openable doors, bonet and trunk (which hides the small battery box) Video: Note that the car is very small (only 35 cm long) so it was quite hard to put all these functions inside. Also recognize in the video that I had to use a special solution with mounting of the differential - because of small scale. The normal solution would be too wide.
  17. RC Dodge Challenger SXT

    This is a MOC (my own creation). It is built in scale 1:10. I started this project one year ago and I wanted to make it as realistic as possible. The most complex part of this MOC is the 5+R sequential gearbox. It had to fit in very small space, so I had to use a new mechanism. It is driven by 4 motors: RC motor for drive, PF servo motor for steering, L motor for gearbox and M motor for lights. It has also realistic full independent suspension (I tried to replicate the real one) and doors with lock. Not like many lego cars, this has full interior with 5 seats. The front seats can move. The gearbox, steering motor, drive motor and two IR receivers are located above the front axle. The L motor for changing speeds is under the seats and the battery box is behind the rear axle. Video: Visit my youtube channel to see more of my creations!
  18. - Electric: 2x L motor, M motor, IR-receiver, LiPo battery - Working supercharger - Positive caster angle - Independent front suspension - Leaf spring rear suspension - Opening doors with locks, hood, trunk - Removable body. Video: Some more photos: Body prototype:
  19. Hi all, I decided to have a go at this competition as it seemed like a laugh, and I had a lot of fun making what I currently have. My idea was to make a vehicle and strap a massive great machine gun sort of thing on it, and sticking it on the back of a truck seems like the perfect idea, right? But a truck with a machine gun on it's own would be rather boring, so I decided to give it adjustable pneumatic suspension, for those tricky bits of terrain it might encounter, and of course slam it right to the ground for that street cred. It's powered by a buggy motor, so it's pretty fast on flat surfaces. Mode 1, extremely low for maximum speed Mode 2, maximum height for off roading purposes! Of course, being hydraulic, the suspension can be at whatever height you want, but this is to prove the point. Now, my favourite part of this suspension is that it acts like the sort you'd find on one of those lowrider cars, and as such, it can pull off crazy moves like this, just for showing off purposes. The truck cab as it stands is still a work in progress, I'm not quite as good at aesthetics as I am at designing the technic part, so bear with me in that department! Here you can see the mechanism, it works with the pneumatic ram, and springs in order to give the desired effect. Tyre omitted for clarity. Apologies for the poor pictures, It's the fault of the camera. For the machine gun which I talk about, this is still all in my mind, however, I want to utilise some form of spinning disc mechanism and accelerate a plate or a technic beam at high velocity that way, but I will keep you all posted on that side of development Hope you all like it! -Ender
  20. This Ford GT is the ultimate expression of form following function. Its teardrop- shape body is the result of extensive work in the wind tunnel. Its carbon-fibre body and its 600-plus horsepower 3.5L EcoBoost V6 engine are the ultimate expressions of technological innovation. Flickr: https://flic.kr/s/aHsm7qSxrk Hello Ford and Technic addicts! Thorsten has completed professional instructions for the Ford GT. It might be time to disassemble your 42056 Porsche Kit and build this orange replica of the 2017 Ford GT! Avail at Rebrickable, check it out! Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-10792/Loxlego/ford-gt Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/gp/139930963@N04/83f95A Video: https://youtu.be/bV8_uOz50oU Ford GT - race car for the road 🏁 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr This supercar packs RWD driven by 2 XL-Motors, Servo for steering, pushrod-actuated torsion bar style suspension front and rear, Sport and track mode suspension, V6 engine, Sbrick plus, Rear spoiler with manual lift, 2 M-motors (1 for each door), button to turn on the car under the hood, easy battery access. Ford GT - From drawing board to reality 🏁 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Nothing about this build was easy. This car had so many new things that I've have never accomplished before. To start was the framework. I was worried this build would be too heavy for the pushrod suspension. Each wheel has 2 inboard shocks that are positioned in the same fashion as the real Ford GT. Ford GT - door mechanics - filter shot by lachlan cameron, on Flickr I really wanted to have the doors open the same as the real car and this is where difficulty started. Opening those huge, heavy doors was a small feat in itself. The pressure required to pop the door to the final position upwards is immense, so I has to seriously gear down the axle. Ford GT - doors by lachlan cameron, on Flickr The next challenge was the motor placement. Man was it ever hard to fit everything inside a tear drop bodywork! I had to use the middle of the seats for the Sbrick, which may not look too cosmetically appealing, but I can assure you it did completely strengthen the framework immensely. (this may be my sturdiest frame I've made) IMG_0043 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Lastly, I kept the Veneno to race the Ford GT as they have identical gearing. If you watch the video, you'll see who wins. I will work with Thorsten as well for professional instructions in the future. Ford GT back view 🏁 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr A big thanks to @brunojj1 for suggesting to place more studs between the wheels. I tried it this time (2 extra studs) and I feel it looks proper. thanks! Ford GT - white room - filter by lachlan cameron, on Flickr
  21. Here I am again. This time the subject is one of the very usual kind: one PFS IR commanded excavator. They are many exemples of perfect excavator on the web...but I just wanted mine, of my own design. So I study it from A to Z and I had to answer many of the questions that many people answer before.Surprisingly, I do not answer the same at some of them :) But first this is what we are talking about: This model as been design in one only goal : a maximum of fun to play with it. In order to match that goal, each and every motor Is directly connected to each function. No mechanics in there. The function are ultra classical : drive, steer, rotate and the 3 movements of the arm. I make use of L motor for the tracks and lifting main arm. Other are medium size motors. I also choose to keep it as compact as possible. The main issue I find on many creation on the web is a too big body resulting in a too big arm. Too big arm need lots of power and often be very slow to move. I try to get what I think is the best compromise in size and use of existing motors. (No pipa I do not have RC ones :) ) The tracks gives the global scale. As you see the BB is in the lower part of the structure. This is due to compactness of the upper part but also for better design of this last spoken upper part. As the excavator rolls only on flat surfaces, no use of any suspension in it... view from the downside the tracks are well integrated, and even with the BB there is a good ground clearance of 3T wich is very good. I also try to implement good action range at the arm: And also small details that makes it looks good, like 3 sets of lights, toolbox, ... Back view, easy acces to the BB to swictch on/off and replace (often:) ) batteries The top part is designed so replacing M motor by Large one is easy (I do command two of them, awaiting arrival) So here it is, not the Moc of the year for sure, but sometimes it's good to achieve some simple goals. As expected and designed for, this one is very fun to play with. Hope you'll enjoy it Steph.
  22. RC MG Metro 6R4

    Hi! so, this is my first post on Eurobricks, I did actually make this model about a month ago, but I thought I might as well share it here too. MG Metro 6R4 by All.About.Lego, on Flickr So, here is a list of its functions: Front and rear independent suspension 4-wheel drive (RC) steering (RC) Working front and rear lights (RC) opening doors opening rear door/boot/bonnet (or whatever else you want to call it)... A detailed interior (with a roll-cage and seats) and loads of stickers... MG Metro 6R4 by All.About.Lego, on Flickr In total this model has 9 PF components: 2 L-motors, 2 pairs of lights, 1 servo motor, 2 AAA battery boxes, and 2 receivers/remotes. It was a bit of a struggle to cram all of them into such a small MOC, while still having independent suspension, and 4-wheel drive, but luckily I still managed to do it! This is the chassis I used for it: Lego Technic Compact 4-wheel drive chassis by All.About.Lego, on Flickr and of course, since I was doing the 6R4, I had no option but to make almost 40 stickers, just so I could recreate the iconic 'Computervision' livery which some of the 1980's group B rally cars had. MG Metro 6R4 by All.About.Lego, on Flickr that's pretty much everything, so I hope you like it, and any comments would be apprecited! Here is the YouTube video: Some more pictures: MG Metro 6R4 by All.About.Lego, on Flickr MG Metro 6R4 by All.About.Lego, on Flickr MG Metro 6R4 by All.About.Lego, on Flickr MG Metro 6R4 by All.About.Lego, on Flickr4 MG Metro 6R4 by All.About.Lego, on Flickr MG Metro 6R4 by All.About.Lego, on Flickr MG Metro 6R4 by All.About.Lego, on Flickr MG Metro 6R4 by All.About.Lego, on Flickr MG Metro 6R4 by All.About.Lego, on Flickr here are some pictures of the original car: MG Metro 6R4 - Original car by All.About.Lego, on Flickr MG Metro 6R4 - Original car by All.About.Lego, on Flickr MG Metro 6R4 - Original car by All.About.Lego, on Flickr
  23. I made this model a long time ago, and I just figured that I'll share it here too. Features: PF RC driving by 2 XL motors PF RC steering by a servo motor PF RC opening doors by 2 M motors working front PF lights Independent suspensions on all wheels Openable hood Working fake V8 engine The white tubes for the body are not official LEGO parts, I bought them in a local supermarket in the party equipment section. The video shows the old version of the model which did not have the doors motorized and the back slightly different. The pictures with white background are the new version. Video: Some more pictures: More pictures: https://flic.kr/s/aHsky5B5Cd Instruction: Google Drive: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B14dC4ffenNhR1NJa1ZuZGgzVVU Dropbox: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ancnq6nvmtuuaja/Z06.zip?dl=0
  24. Question: What do you get, when you cross a tank, with a banana, a scorpion, a V8 engine, and a bunch of stud-shooters? Answer: The Banana Scorpion! Color scheme: Yellow, with some black and grey. Driver: A Big Giant Banana-eating Tiger! (this one) Powered Functions: Drive: Tank tracks - powered by 2x M-motors. (also used for steering) Steering: Tank type skid steering. Engine: A massive V8 - powered by a high speed motor. Wacky function 1: Lifting hull mechanism - powered by M-motor. Wacky function 2: High speed spinning sweeper - powered via V8. Wacky function 3: The ability to tank-wheelie!!! (with some help...) Manual Functions: (aka: weapons) Cannon: A giant cannon mounted on the end of the adjustable scorpion tail. Stud-shooters: Front: 2x six-round, and 2x single-round - Rear: 4x single-round. Spring-shooters: 2x rear-mounted. (can be triggered by driver) The story of how The Banana Scorpion was built:
  25. Hello everybody and let me present my version of a modified 42005 Monster Truck. It was my second set after my "dark age", that I've bought many years ago, after 42029 as supplementary set with a lot of useful pieces and planned to use for a live axle suspension and some other features for 42029 model. However, I liked the set as a simple and functional model and re-assembled it several times. Here is the model and later I'll provide the all details: A month ago, when I tired of infinite attempts to turn 41999 into a Muscle Car (the chassis isn't rigid enough, but I already did a great progress and hopefully will share it once) I returned to this model and set the task to motorize it adding 4WD, but keeping 4 wheels steering and current suspension (keep the original construction as possible as I can). First, I've analyzed the all existing attempts that I could find over EB, Rebrickable and YouTube and it happens that there were several MODs by different authors: First of all, it's @Splat’s MOD with all steered and driven axles (see topic here). I see no reason to duplicate its description, so let me just note that he saved the necessary features with adding Servo + L-Motor mounted under the hood and trunk. The chassis configuration is 4x4/4 or 4WD-4WS. It’s the best motorized model, I think, because of amazing simplicity and performance, but unfortunately it has a kind of “articulated” steering that isn't real, so was trying to made a "real" 4WD-4WS version, using this model as reference. Another one is Jan Dvorak’s (is he on EB?) MOD with all original features supplemented by on-axle L-Motor that drives the rear wheels and Servo for the 4WS. He added an additional 5X7 frame with differential that provided a necessary rigidness. The chassis configuration is 4x2/4 or RWD-4WS. Personally I don't like such a long axle sub-frame. However I've found a good idea of vertical gears inside the central shaft. The third one is @codefox421's MOD, inspired by Splat’s version, with the original front axle and non-steered custom rear axle with on-axle L-Motor. His custom rear axle, based on two portal hubs, is a quite compact and simple, but has no steering. The chassis configuration is 4x2/2 or RWD-FWS. It looks trial-ready with the portal hubs, but it's nearly impossible to add the steering here, so I got nothing from this model. An unusual @Tommy Styrvoky's MOD with an interesting feature: he modified the front axle, not the rear one, by adding a solid drivetrain with worm gear and on-axle M-Motor, so result is a front-wheels driven Monster Truck with oversized fake engine. The chassis configuration is 4x2/4 or FWD-4WS. Very aggressive! WRRRRR Daniel Wirasantosa’s (is he on EB?) MOD that differs from the previous ones by using of chassis-mounted L-Motor that drives the rear axle (that has a bit low ground clearance due to the 5x7 frame) and, moreover, he used a custom steering shaft that comes directly to the steering rack. The chassis configuration is 4x2/2 or RWD-FWS. Starting this version, I got a more or less defined plan: 4WD with off-axle (chassis-mounted) L-Motor that drives the both axles through the existing “drivetrain” (former steering shaft) and the off-axle Servo that steers the both axles through the custom steering shaft above the driveshaft. There were two more versions: Michael M’s stretched one and LEGOTechnic360’s solid-chassis version with no suspension, but they didn't help me with any new ideas. Nothing personal, guys, if you're reading it, I just had a full and consistent vision of my further MOD: Hull - the original with no changes. Axles geometry - original. I tried to save the all things like the wheels location, suspension mounting points, ground clearance, steering angles (that are even bigger a bit now)… And I still can't believe that made it, after a thousand tries! Suspension - original, with no changes. However I put the hard shock absorbers in the rear end, as the default ones were too weak to keep the BuWizz battery. Wheels - original. I decided to keep the original wheels and tires with no giant crawler ones or even Claas, that are too big even for a Monster Truck. Frame - mostly original, but possibly modified since it will have an L-Motor and Servo mounted above the axles (right under the cargo platform and hood). Drivetrain - it must be the ex-steering shaft that comes through the cardans inside the "big" ball joints to the both axles, connected to the L-Motor via the set of normal and clutch gears. Steering - for the all wheels, like in the original model, but the steering shaft comes above the drive shaft, in parallel with it and can slide a bit while the suspension moves. Enough the words...The most interesting part starts here. Following my plan, the bigger challenge was to modify the original axles - I tried several options, even trial-like with solid axles, but 4WS provides an amazing maneuverability due to big steering angles, so axle diffs are likely vital for such model (solid axles were making a permanent clicking noise in the transmission even with motor stalling sometimes) and I decided to make a fast Monster truck, not a slow crawler with a high torque. The drive train. There you can see how I did it: L-Motor rotates a set of 8T and 16T normal and clutch (required for the steering shaft) gears and then the main horizontal shaft, that were used for steering in the original model. After that the shaft rotates the 12T double bevel gears (ex-pinon gears from the original model), than 20T gears below, single-bevel 20T and the differentials. As result, the gearing ratio is 1:1.667 X 1:1.4 = 1.2334, and provides about ~100 RPM with 15.12 N.cm torque. The wheels connected by a wheel hubs, since I wasn't able to use the universal and CV joints with affordable steering angles, wheels position (I kept exactly the same position as in 42005) and rigidness. The steering. Here you can see the servo (mounted upside down in order to provide more space for the battery block above, steering shaft that goes above the driveshaft, 12T gears (pinions) and 13L racks joined to the wheel hubs. In order to allow the suspension travel, the gears has 1/2L offset from the racks and slides together with the shafts along the mounting points when the suspension compresses. It's a fully legal, but still allowed in LDD and works like a charm! The only mistake that the hubs must be from Claas, but they aren't presented in LDD unfortunately: Just to explain why I used the clutch gears (but with no gearbox actually, ha-ha ), the drive and steering systems intersects so hard, so followed TLG way and used the same solution that they did in the official models (42029, for example) - passed the one through the other. Green is a drive subsystem, blue - steering. The Axles. Here you can see how the steering shaft slides by 0.5L (notice the gap between the 12T black gear and LBG liftarm) - it provides about 1L suspension travel for the both axles. Other images, the story of a modified hull (by Phil), LDD file and instruction in PDF are coming soon...