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Found 359 results

  1. This is my very first MOC of a semi-tractor mini chassis. This RC chassis took two months of intense testing and it just 94 pieces (including PF devices) to create the best mini chassis and its mostly a simple design. This chassis will host to many of my future projects and I also created a couple of youtube videos to show off its performance and durability. Version 2.0 chassis includes center differential and suspension. This chassis it includes the following, 1/10 scale Chassis is just 94 pieces with a to create a no gear slip no tire slip thought in my design. very strong frame and durability Its very modular and basic form is 1 frame = 2 halves so both axles will have the same suspension, drive, steering, etc, etc . (I experimented with all types axles and color) (ver 2.0 120 pieces) RC build in mind (it can be used with lego's, sbrick, buwizz and lepin or even a custom rc controller) 67.8 x 34r balloon tires (Balloon tires have the best traction for all types of surfaces like sand,rocks, asphalt and excel on smooth shiny surfaces) 1 lx motor and 1 servo (you can add more motor) 2 way reverse Ackermann Steering (can be upgraded to 4 way) AWD Dual Gear drive train with 1:1.66 output with all time positraction (to reduce gear slippage) Simple suspension (1 l travel and very stiff) (ver 2.0 2 link suspension per axle 3 l travel) Fake disc brakes Fake engine (optional) Center differential (ver 2.0 only) Short wheel base with excellent handling Off road and street car capabilities built into the chassis I have included some pics and videos and will add more. it still a work in progress!! My first video is to show the performance and handling and the second video is a 5 minute off road test to show its durability and to show that I can build a reliable RC chassis. 2.0 version 2.0 version side view Version 1.7 this video is to show performance and handling this 5 min video is to show durability and I can build a kick butt RC chassis !! And yes both videos are the same chassis!! Please add your comments and if you have any question, please feel free to ask about my MOC. This chassis was a really interesting project and discovered a few things about Lego's color of their beams and lift arms. I did a search on this forum about color and weight and none has came up so I guess ill be the first to post this.. I discovered that not all beams and lift arms weigh the same.. Same with pins and axles. I know there are friction and friction less axles and connectors but what I discovered beams and lift arms also weight differently, For example: This dark gray weighs 1.726 grams and Red of the same shape weighs 1.68 grams!!! That is a difference 0.114 grams!! yes that small but with 94 pieces it can add weight , The more I use the red Lego bricks colors, the more lighter the model !!! I have weigh a lot of different parts and color but I don't have all colors and shapes. So far the red color bricks are the lightest in my collections and that means using red bricks will adds more performance !!!! yes you can pat me on my back for this discovery!!
  2. Technic General Discussion Welcome to the Technic General Discussion topic. Here you can post small questions or comments about Lego Technic which don't need a topic of their own. This way we will keep the number of topics limited. Examples Has anyone built vehicle x? Where can I find this or that? I missed this set on eBay...darn!
  3. Hi everyone, Finally, I have finished a project which I was building since last September. It is the scale model of the Intrac 2011 snow blower which is/was often used in the swiss alps by the army and other communal parties. It was the aim to create another working snow blower after the success of the snow blower from last winter. The blower is powered by three buggy-motors which are all controlled by a separate Sbrick. Each track is driven by two PF XL motors. The snow blower shoot direction is controlled by two 9-volt micro motors and the height of the snow blower by one PF L motor. As power source I used two Buwizz as battery or a custom lipo battery. After a certain time in the cold I had the replace the Buwizz with the custom lipo battery. Cheers FT
  4. I' ve made a scale model of semi-trailer truck with a trailer. It's in 1:60 scale, so wouldn't look out of place in a minifigure scale Lego City. But it is remotely controlled. Video: Functions: drive (truck RWD) - L motor steering (with right geometry) - Servo motor remotely openable trailer's cargo door - M motor Everything is controlled remotely using SBrick, powered by standard 8881 battery box. Internals of the trailer, door opening mechanism, battery box and sbrick were packed here: Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. __________________________ Feel free to share your thoughts. I hope you liked this model.
  5. The classic 1967 Ford Eleanor GT500 was a fearsome beast in its day, with a 428 cubic inch big block rippling the pavement courtesy of an astounding 355 horsepower. It's also the car made famous as "Eleanor," Steve McQueen's awesome ride in the original 1974 movie Gone In Sixty Seconds. With so much heritage to this classic car, I knew this build had to reflect that hardcore stance and styling everyone grew to love. 1967 Eleanor Mustang- let’s drive by lachlan cameron, on Flickr In an attempt to stay true to the mechanics and design, I began with the classic live axle rear suspension and an inboard suspension style in the front with Ackerman steering and torsion bar. 1967 Eleanor Mustang- Chrome engine block, gold pistons, red chrome wheels - by lachlan cameron, on Flickr I threw my new red chrome rims on the car just for a quick photo with lots of bling :) 1967 Eleanor Mustang by lachlan cameron, on Flickr The car also sports front and rear headlights, motorized hood and trunk, 2 XL motors for drive, 1 servo motor for steering, 2 Buwizz batteries in the trunk, a chrome V8 engine block with gold pistons, working fan and blower, snap back doors. 1967 Eleanor Mustang by lachlan cameron, on Flickr I did try to follow the shape of the car closely, as you can see in the overlay below: 1967 Eleanor Mustang by lachlan cameron, on Flickr After so many new challenges on this car I'm fairly satisfied with the outcome. So sit back, grab a cuppa and check the video! And as always - a huge thanks to my brother @DugaldIC , @KD123 & @technic_addict for their support throughout this build.
  6. Hello everyone, I'd like to share my latest MOD: Koenigsegg Agera RS1 This car is one of my favorite road-going super/hyper/megacars, and therefore I decided to build it. To me and many others, Koenigsegg is a very special car manufacturer: It was founded in the nineties by Cristian von Koenigsegg, a man without any engineering education background and budget. On top of that, all Koenigseggs are handcrafted and are produced in limited quantities. I like the RS in particular, beceause it is IMO the most beautifull Koenigsegg and it holds the top speed world record. This car is not fully designed by me. @Pvdb build the Koenigsegg one:1 more than two years ago. The RS1 and One:1 have very similar Bodyworks and since Pvdb nailed that on his One:1, i decided to use his bodywork as a shell around my disigned chassis. In addition to that, I also used his door meganism, beceause I could not imagine me designing a better one Specifications: Dimensions 59x27x15 Studs Weight: 2600 g Estimated parts quantity: 2500 parts Powerfuntion elements: 2x PF AAA batteries, 2x PF V2 reciever ,4x PF L motor, 1x PF Servo motor, 1x PF M motor, 2x PF 50 cm wire The RS1 is basically the same as any other RS, but it has the one MegaWatt engine upgrade. The RS1 is specced in white with a black center stripe and it has many blue accents such as the interior, skirts, spoiler, diffuser and front splitter. Many of those parts of the RS1 have just a very thin stripe of blue painted on it. This means you can not replicate that with regulare LEGO parts. Stickers seemed like the only solution, but at some point the idea to use rubber bands for some accents popped in my mind. I only used this trick in the front splitter. Features: Easily removable Roof, like the real car Openable front trunk and engine bay Motorized dihedral synchro-helix actuation doors, Powered by a PF M motor Front double wishbone suspension with negative caster angle Rear triplex suspension with double wishbones Steering with working steering wheel, powered by a PF Servo motor Propulsion with working V8 engine, powered by 4x PF L motor I wanted both doors to be opeable by just one motor. This meant I had to make selector for wich door is connected to the motor. I had some free space in the center tunnel, so I decided to use the handbrake as a selector. Just behind the front wheels there is a driving ring wich can engage in two different clutch gears. Both clutch gears are connected to different doors. The motor and this meganism is placed underneath the trim. Here is the full 'transformer mode'. The front trunk and engine cover can be opened manually. If you look closely, you can see the battery and The L motors behind the seats. The recievers are placed behind the rear axle. Replicating the triplex suspension was for me a 'must have' on this car. It consists of two inclined shock absorbers and a horizontally placed pneumatic cilinder. The pneumatic cilinder is definately the most realistic looking way to make the central shock, but it is not practical. It offers resistance when extending and retracting, so I mounted some springs behind it to ensure that the model doesn't sag. In addition to all of that I also put some links on the suspension system. They are only there for an aesthetic reason though. finally, a video demonstration. Enjoy! Comments and questions are welcome!
  7. Hi, As a winter project I'm working on a 4WD RC buggy. It will be heavily inspired by @agrof's Class 1 Ultimate Buggy, for I very much like the behaviour and the looks of that model. With this model I will also deliver to my promise to @DugaldIC to make an RC model. I was planning on finishing this MOC without a WIP topic, but I simply can't work without the feedback . It will have 4 L-motors and 1 servo motor. No buggy motors, for I will be using current-date parts only. Control will be done with SBrick. Sofar I have been working on the axles. The rear axles are very much inspired by agrof's model, but this time everything relies on perfect fits. They rely on the Pythagorean triple (5,12,13). The front axles are my very own addition to this model: 2 L-motors are integrated in the double-wishbone setup. Making everything rely on perfect fits, is one of my main challenges. The second challenge is to make everything relevant form-locked. And of course the model needs to perform. All wheel hubs are turn-table/u-joint based: Sofar I have only been designing digitally, but I did check the most essential constructions in real life already. I will show progress when ever I have something to show. If you have any comments, feel free to reply. I'm new to motorized building so I can use some feedback.
  8. Hi to everybody! It's been a while since I posted something new...so now here we are. Little prefaction, in the last year both time and motivations are dropped down, this Moc was almost ready in may 2017 and it took me a bit to find the desire to do pics video and instructions.....the instructions are not ready yet, but they are at a good point. IMG_2348 by Lucio Switch, su Flickr Now about the Moc, this is a sort of a Dakar Truck, it's a lot simpler compared to my usual Mocs, the idea behind it was to use the Claas Tires, trapezoidal panels...and don't use the parts of my Crane Truck, furthermore, to make it light (or try to do so), I added less details then usual. So it's son of a lot of (personal) compromises. It is driven by 4Xl Motors, 2 for the front axle and 2 for the rear and it's steered by a servo motor. 2 M motors are used to run the pump and to actuate a pneumatic valve. It's powered by 2 Li-Po battery and controlled by 2 SBricks. 6 pairs of Led are used for the lights. One small pneumatic pump, a pneumatic valve and 2 small pneumatic cylinders make up the pneumatic system. The truck has live axles with Anti Roll-bar, the differentials are lockable pneumatically. It has openale door, tiltable cab (with some interior details), and a door in the back to acces the battery. That's all, I hope you like it!
  9. Fellow Technic Builders, Let me share my first serious and almost finished MOC - possible the most recognisable Monster Truck of all times, Gravedigger. Firstly, let's start with the picture of the real ting, in case you are not as obsessed with Monster Trucks/Gravedigger as I am: And here my version (now with stickers) The idea of recreating it with Technic was what drove me back to Lego after my dark ages. Firstly I wanted to just do a simple MOD of 42005 with body and colour swap, but then we've got the Claas tires which are a perfect fit for this project, so it got bigger and bigger. Anyway, here we are after two years of building: 2XL engines for power, geared up 3 times (one engine per axle) 2 servos for steering PF switch controlled by a M engine for switching from crab steering to opposite LEGO Lights Weight: 1281g Dimensions: 44 studs or 35cm long 15 studs or 12cm wide (chassis) 27 studs or 22cm wide (wheels) 32 studs or 26cm tall Performance wise is runs 3:1 geared up XL engines powered through BuWizz which combined with low centre of gravity allows for a fun stuff like less or more controlled driving on side two wheels: And to be seen in a video: Plus a video of the steering switch at work: The model is not very mechanically realistic, e.g. it has portal axles while the monster trucks use planetary geared axles, but it is my first MOC and it was meant to be fun in outdoor, not off-road play and it is. There is a mention of the chassis being v1 in the topic. I want to improve it and develop optimal Monster Truck chassis and have a set of bodies to replace on the top. As such, I am recreating the model in stud.io for my reference and possible instructions and the renders of the powertrain are available in links below (I don't want to overburden the post with pictures, anyone who will be interested in them will surely click a link). Build time so far: 2 years. This is my first MOC, I know it is far from perfect (e.g no torque allowing to climb a ramp and have enough speed to make a decent jump) but is fun for me so far and overall I am happy with the result. https://ibb.co/mVecNT https://ibb.co/ew12p8 https://ibb.co/f8rDwo https://ibb.co/dinWhT I have also ordered a set of custom stickers for the details and they are on the way. Can't wait to hear your opinions, guys as the stuff being published here humbles me with cleverness and complexity.
  10. I would like to present the result of my Winter-project. A big thank you to everybody who supported me in the corresponding WIP-topic and of course to @DugaldIC for challenging me! Features: Turn-table-based wheel-hubs with minimal slack 4WD by means of 4 L-motors powered by two BuWizz 2 units Fully independent suspension Steering with Servo-motor 30 degree steering angle with Ackermann geometry Caster angle Fake V8-engine driven by M-motor Can handle a rough ride Liftable by roof, nose and tail Everything in-system Stats: Parts #: 1844 Weight: 1980gr Length: 54 studs Width: 35 studs Height: 23 studs I hope this will pull @Blakbird back into Technic . LXF-file here and LDR-file here. @mj002, this includes all reductions I did, also to the chassis. I also removed the transversal inclined beams I reported about in the wip-topic recently. Eventually I could reduce slack in the rear suspension arm mounts much more efficiently and with far less parts. All together I reduced the number of parts by 200. I had to take the whole model apart to make all the adjustments . If you want to build this from the LXF-file, please take notice of a few important pointers: The 5.5L axles used in the front wheel hubs should be the old version. These are slightly shorter and can be recognized by more sharp axle-ends. As far as I know, all black ones are old ones. See also this topic. To minimize wear, it is advisable to lubricate the turntables and the springs with silicon spray (don't use any other (petrol based) lubricants as they will react with ABS). Thanks for the suggestion @Permo! Some stills from video-material. And finally a few short videos.
  11. The Fiat Panda is an Italian utility car created for all needs. It's known for its simplicity but above all for its ability to do almost everything. The 4x4 version, despite the 50 hp, is capable of climbing on various types of terrain, in fact it is also used for trials (just change the wheels). I wanted to create it in a small offroad version. The design is quite similar to the real model even if with some difference like the roof. I added a front bumper with 2 PF Lights, very useful for night rides, and a winch (you can see how it works at the end of the video). 1 PF L Motor for propulsion with a 2 speed gearbox and a 4x4 transmission without differential (I added a second reinforcement gear in the rear axle). The gearbox is compact and strong enough and the winch system is connected to it. The total gear ratio is: First Gear 1:3.33; Second Gear 1:1.67. Pendular suspension for good stability on rough terrain, even if the model is not high enough to work properly :(. The rear opening hatch and the small trailer are good for transporting small loads. The old model was very squarish and very low so I had to revise it more carefully.
  12. Yes, it's an airplane that can drift! (or rather do doughnuts) But first, I think the video is the best introduction: Cool, isn't it? I was actually very surprised how well it worked when I first tested it - especially considering how bad my previous MODs were.. (in fact, it's probably the only RC set MOD that I've done that worked at all!) It was quite a challenge to fit all the electrics in such a small body, and was actually the main reason why I only kept one of the original functions... Features: Steering - powered by PF servo. Drive - geared down 3:5 from fast output of buggy motor. Motorized wings (not RC) - powered by PF M-motor. Easy to remove battery box - if not using rechargeable battery. Other Specs: Weight: 650g (with rechargeable battery) Original functions kept: 1 (out of 3) Theoretical top speed: 14km/h (at least) Links: YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pTW9vclg0c Bricksafe: https://www.bricksafe.com/pages/mocbuild101/9394-rc-dragster-mod Contest voting: https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/162664-ams-2-dragify-your-set-voting More photos: Enjoy! And don't forget to vote!
  13. Hi all, Here is an attempt at building a new forklift. My previous one used the TLG design for the boom. This time i decided to build my own. Why? Just because the TLG boom had a big inner central mecha that makes impossible for the driver to look in front of him... I solved this by using a string based mechanics to lift the first stage of the mast. The second stage is also indirectly lift by the first one's movement. The whole arm has a tilting mechanism: The model has a propulsion base on one medium size motor, a tilting mechanism based on the same one. The direction is made with a servoand the main lifting use also a medium size motor. At all stage, the power is enough. Some other pictures: Front view. the driver just can look in front of him. Good idea no? Maximun size of the full open mast The model has drive and steering. Led light are also at party. The steering Wheel is custom made using technic disk and a Polly tire I hope you'll like it. Steph
  14. For the "Fast car competition" organized by BuWizz, I have done that: For this contest, you have to make a vehicle with suspensions, and do a video showing it doing at least one jump. Of course, the MOC must be powered by a BuWizz! For the steering, there is a servomotor. The driving is done by two L motors, with a 1:1.8 ratio. So the buggy has a correct speed, and enough torque to be driven on dirt, sand... It is fully suspended. The front is an ordinary system. But for the rear, I couldn't do independant suspensions (not enough compact) or a suspended axle (because as the motors are in the chassis, when you accelerate the axle tilts). So I done an "amost suspended axle". The liftarms thin 5L have an effect of anti roll-bar. I have tried to do a light design. Thus, the MOC weighs 460 grams.
  15. One BuWizz, it's good. But two, it's better, because you can make MOCs having 8 functions! I have already done a full RC compact excavator, but with LEGO IR receivers. I wanted do make another excavator without the gearbox allowing to choose between the rotation of the arm and the pneumatic pump. Furthermore, the M motors were just enough powerful to move the arm. On this new excavator, it's different. I tried to make the mecanic as compact as possible. And the arm is controlled with more powerful motors: 1 L and 1 XL. So now you can... dig on gravel with a GoPro attached on the arm, and the motors bear that easily! There is a good speed and so much power to do anything you want! For the design, I tried to cover the maximum and I kept a color scheme close to the one of my previous excavator. To switch on the BuWizz of the turret, you need to open the part behind the cab. The hood is also openable, but there is nothing interesting to see. ^^ So the functions are: -> Controlled by the bottom BuWizz: Left track (M motor) Right track (M motor) Blade (M motor) LEDs (of the cab and the arm) -> Controlled by the BuWizz of the turret: Turn table (L motor) 1st part of the arm (XL motor) 2nd part of the arm (L motor) Bucket (M motor) You have certainly noticed that there are shock absorbers. It's for the tension of the tracks. The LEDs: And the video! The BuWizz are in Fast mode and I used the app BrickController, done by @imurvai. It's perfect for this MOC!
  16. The Honda CR-Z is a sport compact hybrid electric automobile manufactured by Honda and marketed as a "sport hybrid coupe.The CR-Z combines a hybrid gasoline-electric powertrain with traditional sports car elements, most notably having a 2+2 seating arrangement and a standard 6-speed manual transmission. The CR-Z is regarded as the spiritual successor to the second generation Honda CR-X in both name and exterior design. Honda CR-Z - Drive it like you own it by lachlan cameron, on Flickr This is a special design and is a one off build. No instructions will be made of this car. Honda CR-Z - Drive it like you own it by lachlan cameron, on Flickr I worked with my client on the features and design of the car to ensure accuracy to the original car - the 2016 Honda CR-Z! Honda CR-Z - red hatchback by lachlan cameron, on Flickr This car sports 4wd, torsion bar suspension front and rear, working steering wheel, RC doors powered by 2 m-motors tucked into the Center console, opening trunk and hood, 4 cyl. In-line engine, 2 lipo batteries and 2 Sbricks, 4 light in the front, 2 light at the rear. Honda CR-Z - Drive it like you own it by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Flickr album: https://flic.kr/s/aHskBY38RU Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/loxlego Honda CR-Z - Drive it like you own it by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Honda CR-Z - Drive it like you own it by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Honda CR-Z - Drive it like you own it by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Honda CR-Z - Drive it like you own it by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Honda CR-Z - Drive it like you own it by lachlan cameron, on Flickr
  17. This is my new 1969 Dodge Charger Monster Truck. It’s a hybrid, a chimera. It’s an all-wheel drive, all-wheel steer monster. I built it in sections. It is very easy to build and assemble. I had to sacrifice passenger seat to make room for IR receivers. Quick reference of the features: - 2 XL motors for drive, one for each axle, - Tatra suspension, - Loads of suspension travel, - 2 L motors for steering, one for each axle, - Tatra steering system (via small LA) with Ackerman geometry, - Independent steering of front and rear axles, - Normal steering mode, - All wheel steering mode, - Crab steering mode - 2 L motors for winches, one for each winch, - Openable doors, - Hidden/flip-up headlights, - Working steering wheel, - Hemi V8 engine with carburetors and blower. BOSS Here you can see door opening mechanism. UNDERDOG SINISTER VICE And here is the chassis. So, which combo do you like the most?
  18. Hey guys, sorry I haven't posted in a while. I've had the clips to make this video for 2 months now, but not enough time to edit. Anyhow, with that said, here's what I have done. I have rebuilt both of the rear axles so they can be driven by 2 L-Motors, and rebuilt the front axle so that it can be steered by a servo, and still be able to fit an engine and have room in the cab for other motors. I also rebuilt the front of the truck since it seemed too sparse to me, but I've left the rest of the truck (besides some of the internals) original. I decided I only wanted to use a single Sbrick, and I had only one port left, since there was already an M-Motor in the model to drive the functions connected to the distribution gearbox, so I built a custom sequential shifter that I could fit in the cab, and access the axles of the changeover catches in the gearbox, and thus shift through the functions sequentially. This is done with one M-Motor. All of the internal mechanics of the gearbox were left stock, besides the elimination of any white 24 tooth clutch gears. I did not change the rest of the model that much, though I did think having an inline-4 seemed kind of lame, so I put in a V8 instead. i will not release any instructions due to the extense of the modifications. Please enjoy the video and photos below, and feel free to leave a reply!
  19. Please suport my project on Lego Ideas. https://ideas.lego.com/projects/bc17ae38-b3e7-4cb2-b804-401e0bcc7aef Power functions: 3x L-motor 1x IR Receiver 1x IR Remote Control 1x AAA Battery Box 1x Control Switch 1x Extension Wire Description All openable doors. Model have fake motor V6. Color: Black and Yellow Number of Pieces: 800-100 Thank you very much for your support! Military version: Hägglunds BV 206s
  20. Dear Lego Technic engineers, I’ll take this time to present to you my latest and most serious MOC. Challenger MT800E tractor. I got my inspiration from the FS17 game I’m playing, where is one of my favorites. I spent a month developing it, I didn’t rush it, I took my time, and it turned out quite ok (at least I think so). I wanted it to be a Claas Xerion contender. So it’s built in the same scale as Claas. I tried to replicate it as close as possible to the real thing, so I implemented the same features as on the real tractor. Same shape front weights, the position of the mirrors, lights, stairs and hand rails. Big tractor deserves a big exhaust. By the way, not all of them have front hitch, mine does. Front and rear view By the pure looks of it, it set itself apart from other tractors out there (both real and Lego). And it’s controlled by S-brick, because I didn’t want chunky and clunky Lego RC receivers sticking out of the model. Front engine cover functions just like on the real tractor; it gives access to the battery box (engine). The only thing wrong here is that the cover is one stud taller than it should be because I had to make room for the things inside. To get the correct shape and for the colors that were involved, I kind of compromise its structural rigidity in the back section where the hinge is (I hope it won’t fall apart). View of the lifted engine cover Same features in the cabin as on the real one. Joystick, computer, display, dash. Close up of the cabin Now, the rear hydraulic lift system is a bit simpler than the real one. Mine has a few levers less, but it functions in the same way, and it looks the same. It goes up and down and swings from side to side (which is the unique feature on this tractor) together with the drawbar hitch which is standard equipment and PTO. A 3-point ball hitch can be implemented at any time. But don’t get full by it, it’s still very complex mechanism to put in such small space and to make it work. View of the rear hydraulic lift system with different attaches Let’s talk about the chassis and drivetrain a little bit. The XL motor is for drive; it’s geared up to 1.67 to get the approximate speed of 1.2km/h otherwise it would be too slow. The whole thing weighs around 1.3kg (I calculated) so I think it shouldn’t be a problem (although I don’t know will it be enough when you attach something to it; a trailer or an implement of some kind). The power is transferred to the small sprocket which is in between the 2 motorcycle wheels on the bottom so it sits on the track and it always has a weight pushing on them so it’s always in contact with the track. The motorcycle wheels are stationary, they don’t turn, the track glides over them. The original idea was to offset motorcycle wheels by 90 degrees, get power to them, and put 4 stationary small sprockets in between. But when I tried it, the sprockets just wouldn’t align to the track correctly. So I had to compromise and do it this way. The front wheel is attached to the big shock absorber which acts as a track tensioner. The midwheels are oscillated front to back and left to right (just like on the real tractor). For steering I used an L motor (that’s the one on top) and dual differential steering system (thanks to @Tommy Styrvoky). The steering output speed is 9:1 at the differentials. PTO is directly powered by another L motor (the one at the bottom). The M motor on top is for the rear hydraulic lift system. The orange friction cylinders are dumpers so that the hydraulics can’t swing freely side to side by its own. On tracks I put those rubber things for better traction (BTW, they only exist in red color but it looked stupid so I colored them dark gray). Top and bottom view of the chassis And yes, there is a black limited edition. PDF instruction AVAILABLE! DISCLAIMER: This is built in LDD. I don’t have real Legos, so I can NOT be 100% certain that this will work. I’m hoping it will, because I’ve paid attention to, calculated, considered, thought through, almost everything. I made sure that every connection is possible, and that nothing hits anything that it’s not supposed to. This time I used colors that exist in real life, so no more parts and colors errors. The only thing that I’m worried about are the rear drive wheels. Will my solution actually work? It should in theory. Anyway, enjoy it and have fun with it. The other colors are just for the fun of it. UPDATE 1 I managed to secure the white worm gear with little modifications, so that it will stay in place and it won't fall off. And now, it looks like this: UPDATE 2 PDF instructions are finished. Here is the link: Challenger MT800E building instructions UPDATE 3 I submitted this MOC on Lego Ideas . If you like it, please support it. Although it needs some corrections to the drivetrain, if it passes forward, I will make sure to do them. I will iron out every wrinkle there is and correct every mistake. And I will make it compatible with standard Lego receivers The deadline for 100 supporters is July 18th 2018. UPDATE 4 New deadline for 1000 supporters is July 16th 2019. Now I have the time and the drive to fix some things, and slowly but surely make it work properly. Thank you
  21. Czechoslovakia WW2 tank. Power functions: 1x XL motor 2x L motor 3x M motor Fuction and chassis Lego. Desing Cobi small army WW2.
  22. Czechoslovakia WW2 tank. Power functions: 1x XL motor 2x L motor 3x M motor Fuction and chassis Lego. Desing Cobi small army WW2.
  23. Hello everyone. This is my modification of the truck vith container trailer. It is RC with power functions. 1 servo motor for steering 1 M motor for driving it is simply very cute to me and just fantastic to drive with this litle cute truck. and one simple video That's all for now. Best regards, Valter
  24. I build Lego transformers but this will mostly be about my rc cars and other technic related builds
  25. It’s that time that I present again. This time I built a Race/Off-road Truck. It uses 2 L motors for drive and servo motor for steering. Manual 2 speed gearbox with 1:3 and 3:1 gear ratios. It’s only rear wheel drive. Double wishbone independent front suspension and live rear axle. Special things are gullwing lockable doors, and sliding seats. But the real feature is its transforming abilities. First configuration; RACE. So, I used suspension lift system straight out of Lego’s 8297 Off-roader. When the truck is lowered the ground clearance is just over 1 stud. With suspension travel at minimum, less than 1 stud, and very high gear, it’s perfect for circuit racing. Because the cabin is in front of the front wheels I put the battery box as far back to act as a counter weight. Second configuration; light OFF-ROAD. I say light because it’s only RWD. I wanted to make it AWD, but I don’t have those small steering wheel hubs in LDD, only the big ones (like Porsche uses). And I didn’t like the way it looked with those, plus this way I got better steering angle and ground clearance, so I compromised. Now, the suspension lifting is done manually by yellow gear wheels. (I didn’t want to put a big motor to stick out on top of the chassis to make it motorized). So, when is lifted the ground clearance is 3.5 studs, with the same amount of suspension travel. The cabin is on a swivel, you lift (rotate, swivel…) it back, secure it with light gray pins and the protective front guard pops out (which is hidden underneath the cabin in race mod). So now the truck can handle some steep inclinations. The only thing I’m not sure about is the frame’s structural stability. Will it bend and twist, I don’t know. I’m assuming it might. I feel that I need to mention this one more time; I don’t have real Legos, so I use only LDD. Bottom view Comparison: Thank you for your attention.