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Found 10 results

  1. Hello everyone, I was trying to figure the below down on my own browsing forums, searching for answers, reading a lot of articles from last 2 years however I did not find strict answers to my questions. I am sorry if some answers were already posted here and I did not find them. As I am about to spend some serious money (for me personally as I am not rich) on Lego Technic and I want to be able to create custom machines later I feel like I HAVE TO decide between Power Functions and Powered Up. 1. Is (or will) Powered Up system be customizable using Lego official App or 3rd party app? Will I be able to use Power Up motors and customize them into different than original machine so it works? 2. Should I even be coinsidering Powered Up systems for future and creating custom machines? 3. Is Power Functions a better choice for now and for future for creating custom machines? Is it easier to customize controls? 4. Are there any news or leaks that Lego will allow to customize controls of new Powered Up motors? 5. Is Power Functions better for building custom machines than Powered Up? 6. Does BuWizz or Bricks going to support and customize Powered Up? I am sorry, it all feels so overwhelming as for a beginning person that has limited budget and needs to pick carefully and plan everything ahead.
  2. Hello Trainheads. I have been thinking about making parts for TLG trains for a long time. Ever since the lookdown started I really got into the idea more and in my head, it gained a lot of traction. I introduce New England BrickWorks NOTE*** Still in development phase looking for feedback**** I have had a lot of time to think these days, getting my degree in mechanical engineering hasn't been eating up as much of my time. And I believe I have developed a new manufacturing method that will create parts with injection-molded quality with a slightly different material than plastic(very close strength-wise) for a fraction of the cost. If I did my math correct I may be able to develop new products for little cost and the overhead will be low. I will be looking to sell circles of r104 at about $60. Here are some future product ideas r56 r72 r88 r104 r120 r136+ Side rods Drivers r104 switches r120 switches r40 switches narrow gauge stuff r56 -136 rails only (me models like) Unpainted products(if you want light gray ballast and dark grey rails) Other(post bellow) ***Please I beg you can you post if you want any of these products and give me feedback**** ****Please fellow trainheads take this survey so I can easily see your responses(only takes one min)**** Still don't know if I want to do this, may start a KickStarter once I see feedback and do some designs Take the survey Bye Bye Everybody -Coal Fired PS I still aren't sure about this endeavor I will decide if I want to do this after I see the responses to the survey and to the form.
  3. Soooo, before i take it to pieces i thought i'd share a mostly finished moc of the Claas Axion 960. First thing to mention is the use of 3rd party rear tyres. These allow the scale to be 1:16.5 which means squeezing in features is much easier! Also mean the Xerion wheels are the correct size to be used as front wheels. Here is a link to a flickr album.. if i work out how to embed sensibly sized images i will also - Features: Full RC drive, steering, Pneumatic pump and 3 point linkage - 4 motors. 4 wheel drive, engaged via driving ring clutch Rear Diff-Lock engaged via driving ring clutch Realistic 3 point linkage... 42054 had a very none-real arrangement. Rear PTO engaged via driving ring clutch Narrow (3L) waist to allow 45 degrees of steering lock while retaining a to-scale track width - just realised there's no pic of this, i'll add one. Rear wheels will not be to everyone's taste! But to get a decent scale, i think its needed.. all the supercars are around 1:8 or 1:10 scale which gives you room to fit things. even with these 130mm tyres, its still only 1:16.5. One of the biggest squeezes is getting the track width narrow enough with 4wd and steering.. its actually about 0.5L to wide, the axle will allow a narrower track but then the lock will be 30 degrees or something equally poor. Its 39cm long and 23cm wide, not weighed it yet. Piece count is totally unknown. I'll take a vid of all the function and add it to youtube in the next day or so before i dismantle.... I've got plans to build a proper Xerion with 3 difflocks. Axle is already built so i'm itching to start! I know tractors are a fairly niche category, but i love building them.. all comments welcome! 20180908_181504 by Team Thrifty, on Flickr
  4. Chanced upon this video while browsing youtube just now... I'm not in any way promoting the use of 3rd party parts () here (it's individuals' tastes after all), but I thought this video pretty much gives a rough gauge to all of us what pure Lego, when combined with brushless motor (i.e. no lubrication, no bearings, no other metallic 3rd party hobby-grade RC structural/mechanical components), can do... how Lego parts (especially differentials and universal joints) survived at such speed, for a roughly 1 kg model (my own model weighs 3 kg and if I accelerate it hard, the rear-front-middle differential and universal joints will complain)... and the control range to be expected using rc-grade transmitter/receiver. and if the speed claimed is accurate, the 68.8 mm wheels would have to be spinning at close to 6k rpm - depending on weather conditions this is probably the top limit before Lego axles melts (this limit will go down the heavier the model is).
  5. Okay, so if you have ever looked up "Custom LEGO pieces" you find some cool parts. I was wondering if anyone has tried making their own, and out of what material? Does PVC release bad chemicals? Was it hard or time consuming? And most importantly, what are your opinions on third party pieces like brickarms, brickforge, brickmania, Crazy bricks arms and cactuses, etcetera? I have not tried too many custom pieces so far. So, that being said, I am interested in your responses. I did another one, like this, so here is the link to the original: Thanks in advance, Legostarwars1425
  6. Hello people of EB, Let me share my drift machine with you. It is the result of a long experiment in which I've been trying to figure out the recipe for the ultimate drifting experience. But let's start at the beginning: My first attempt was a RWD car as we all picture a drift car should be. And however it was capable to make doughnuts I was missing the proper handling, where coming out from an arc can be predicted, or even intended. Sadly I did not make a video about the first version, but drove me to the conclusion that the handling can be improved by extending the wheelbase. So the next version I've built longer and it verified my assumption, the handling has improved, yet came nowhere close to the level I've aimed. Lucky for us I made a video at this stage: This car had a fairly simple build, using only 1 Rc buggy motor coonected directly to the rear differential, and a servo for steering. As power souce I've been using RC LiPo's (500mAh 25C). I know that divides the community not being approved by the church, but since I discovered it's pro's I'm addicted to them. Small size, low weight, yet capable to feed the buggy motor(s) trough Sbrick. This version of the car was around 720 gramms and I think this is a very friendly number on the scale in therms of a fast and agile vehicle. The Rc wheels I'm using on it have rubber tyres, but thanks to the low weight it could spin them without any additional preparation. Using them though is my personal obsession due to their geometry and aesthetics, has nothing to do with drifting abilities. Still I was missing the elongated arcs and the predictible behaviour. The only bottleneck I had was the controll. Touchscreen controlers drive my mad, not giving any physical sense about what am I doing. Imurvai's application for game controllers was like an oasis in the touchscreen desert for me. (God bless him). But even the physical controller couldn't give me that smooth controll on throttle what I wanted to keep the wheelspin on the border of loosing or keeping the traction. (does this make sense to you?) God I was missing the throttlecurve from my heli controller. :-) So a different approach needed and the idea came that 4 wheel drive should give me the last piece of the puzzle. In my theory the driven front wheels are pulling the vehicle in the choosen direction, while I have to admit this changes the overall behaviour too. So I've built the 4x4 version of that estate car: And after a few modification and addition I've achived the controlled skiding I was looking for. All wheels being driven the traction had to be lowered as 1 buggy motor/axle wasn't enough to make the tyres spin. Instead of using plastic wheels I 've picked my favorite tool: insulation tape. And here is why: Plastic wheels have so low friction on wood like driving on ice. I was gonna loose all the handling I was working for. The tape in the other hand gives considerably more friction/traction even if all the tyre is covered. But it isn't. By carefully choosing the right width of the tape let us fine tune the traction giving the ability to change between oversteer and understeer on demand, or deciding how "happy" the tail of the car we want it to be. On more benefit of the tape on the front wheels: If ther is a caster on the front, when it turns to any direction the wheels are tilting too, touching the floor only with their edge. As the edge is not covered by tape, so the rubber comes to contact, giving more traction when changing direction. And when the steering goes straight the traction lowered to the amount we set up by the tape so the wheels can skid and spin. And there is a subjective reason as well: plastic wheels are noise too. To improve agility I needed a handbrake too. The video gives a straight-forward explanation about it, I think it is qiute self explanatory stuff. The setup has enough power to stall the buggy motor. While I admit it's not "healty for the all parts, we have to accept: Every magic comes with a price. 4 motors and 4 LED's required 2 Sbrick to controll them. I think that is it so far. If I forgot to cover something, please feel free to ask about it, but let me point out I can't do much about being non purist. This is about engineering for me, not about religion. So anything regarding this subject will be answered by 1 minute of silence There are more pics in the Flickr gallery: Hope it was usefull for future drift projects Your comments are wellcome Attika Ps: Part of this subject I've posted the other day in an old topic started by rm8 in 2012. It what was digged up by a new member and finding that topic on first page made me share my fresh experiences without checking the date on the question. Hereby I apologise doing silly things like that.
  7. Rezvonflux

    RC set/parts advice

    Hello everyone, bare with me as this is my first post and my make some newb no-no's I've been looking to order a set online with future hopes to install a Sbrick and have some fun with the kids. Now, i can't decide what to order...if i order anything at all. Was looking at Aliexpress and can't decide what to get. i want a good decent set that offers most of what i'm looking for in a bundle. Keeping in mind, most of the outdoor area here is either bumpy, grassy or parking lot. - maybe looking for racer, possibly F1. but i see that getting stuck a lot around here except the parking lot. - WHEELS and SUSPENSION ;) family are mechanics, this is the only way i get to keep my hands clean ;) - parts gearbox, 4wd... - was planning to get SBRICK, motor advice? With that being said, i'm thinking of a crawler/buggy type..... long suspension, big wheels, room for motors..... able to "take a beaiting" Any suggestions, I thinking along the lines of the 3335 or 3360?
  8. Just an interesting webfind; Brixo Looks pretty neat, although I wonder if you touch the bricks while current is running through you'll get shocked?
  9. I recently found out about some F1 race car moc instructions. Sadly, the prices for the wheels and tires were a lot more than I had anticipated. Are there any tires that will fit with the lego wheel or any wheel/tire combo that is similar in size to the lego wheel?