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About cptkent

  1. MOC BR class 08 shunter

    @richpantson Battery box, FX brick and M motor. Only built digitally so far.
  2. MOC BR class 08 shunter

    Apparently the class 8 is based on the class 11. My own F class is apparently based on the class 11 also.... strange family tree. heres my related WIP: Needs some more tweaking, it will get bigger wheels next revision.
  3. “Will I buy them”? Probably - although the last two city trains I skipped. I just didn’t find them appealing. My reasons for probably buying these two sets: - I don’t mind the designs. - For the new BT control. If the new BT control system measures up to expectations/ potential, I may retrofit it to a lot of other trains I have. I’ll get these two to evaluate it, and decide from there. As an AFOL train fan and MOC builder, all I want from LEGO is basic sets (for the kids) and bricks that I can source for my own designs. I love the advanced trains them make, but don’t expect them. And I know the system has more potential, but I see third party suppliers being more helpful there with regards to what an AFOL specially needs.
  4. Thanks to all those who replied. I have a couple of 'electrical' solutions, but then started wondering about a pneumatic one. I may set up a testbed to evaluate it. David
  5. Hi, Can someone please tell me if there is a practical maximum hose length for a Lego pneumatic system? The application I have in mind is for ‘remote switching’ of a railway track point. The track point is ~1500mm from where I want the switch. I presume I would be best to use 3rd party hose at these lengths. I’ve tried to search for an answer, but nothing has turned up. Can anybody here help? thanks david edit: ps, I am probably going electrical, but just thought I’d consider a pneumatic solution, though it appears in any case parts for that may be difficult to source.
  6. PFx Brick for Trains, Kickstarter

    Is anybody playing with this at the moment? Is all the action on another thread I’m not aware of?
  7. Fixing ME Models Curved Metal Rails with LEGO

    Rail puller, V2.0 No patent pending...
  8. Fixing ME Models Curved Metal Rails with LEGO

    Here's my rail bender: It actually works quite well. To do things properly, it takes a few passes to get a bent rail - its easier to bend than remove kinks! I start off with the axle pieces further apart, and as the track bends, move them closer together. When done, I trim to length. A single rail does ~1/8 of a loop, or 3 'track modules'. I can trim shorter later if required, but leaving the rails as long as possible reduces joins. The track does not need to be completely straight, just 'more bent than straight', to take the tension out of the track.
  9. Fixing ME Models Curved Metal Rails with LEGO

    Both the device and the installation. I should note, lamps and lighting are a fairly low priority for me at the moment, with all the trackwork I have going on. But I am interested, and others may well be as well. 'Hardcore' or 'Crazy'. Im just after the easiest option, both to construct, and prevent problems and reconstruction in the future. If I have to go a little further to prevent problems, I will. Stay tuned!
  10. Fixing ME Models Curved Metal Rails with LEGO

    Well this is a very timely topic! I am one of the few recipients of all my ME model order, about 11 months ago now. It’s taken me that long to assemble my required (for my layout) sections which included: - removal of all the metal rails. - assembly of 1 loop each or R56/72/88 and a ½ loop R104, a dozen or so double straights. - gluing of all ME parts, into sections resembling LEGO track sections, so that all rails and sleepers are fixed. (The combination of poor clutch strength, and rails that were not pre bended, is like a spring loaded trap, and never going to work) - ballasting, per l-gauge reference instructions And now the time has come to put the metal rails in. My approach will be a little different. I have removed all the ME metal rails, and will me installing fresh code-100 track. This is because it’s hard to bend the ends of a rail, and what I actually want a to do is bend a 12” length, and trim the ends, for a 10” final curved length. I may be able to reuse some of the ME track, where I have longer lengths. (Those familiar with this will understand, sorry I don’t have any diagrams as yet). I’m actually thinking of using continuous rails where possible (ie a metal rail that spans 3-4 lengths of plastic rail), because it just seems more logical when I’m not planning on changing the layout. If I can get a 1/2 loop with only a couple of pieces of track, the ride should be very smooth. I can always remove and trim it later, if I want to change the layout or if any problems occur. I may also apply this to sections where I have long straights. So your thread, and details of your approach, is timely. I’ve had some ideas how to bend the rail, but haven’t assembled any device as yet. I may start with yours. I do intend to put together a separate thread, when I’m done, with links to a few Flickr photos. Probably in a month or so. Some initial photos: I need to take some of the ballasted track, which is currently in boxes awaiting assembly. More updates in the next few weeks as I put my layout together. I have a deadline of 25th Feb, when my nephew visits! Any chance we can see a photo of your lamp drilling apparatus?
  11. Long post cut down... How about a bit of lateral thinking? Ie, sell some shares in the molds: - I want 50 straights - I buy 50 ‘shares’* in the ‘straight mold’ at $5 each** - My 50 shares entitle me to an option of purchasing 50 straights at 20c each*** - My 50 straights are taxed at $10 when shipped. *’Shares’ may not be the right word. There is no intent to sell my shares later. The money stays with the manufacturer. **$5 is an example only, depends on the part. ***20c is a nominal figure. This is what your tax is based on. Lower figure = less tax I’m sure there’s a term for this kind of arrangement. I’m not sure of its legality;-)
  12. Hi John Hill,

    I’m from Australia, but currently touring NZ, and wondered if there was anybody doing Lego trains over here.

    Are there any Flickr groups or websites I should look at?

    NZ is a fascinating place for trains, with tunnels, viaducts, and I particularly like some of the Christchurch tram loop.


  13. Stick to the KISS principle - there’s a lot of suggestions about exotic parts, but things that should sell well are: - 9v straight. Original product is rare, there’s still demand. 1x and 2x. Later ½x - 9v R72 (R56 is a bit close to R40) - 9v R104 - some kind of R72 switch or crossover. Come back later and fill in the gaps for R56 and R88 ie, don’t make anything that can be currently obtained/ modified easily or cheaply. im certainly watching with interest.
  14. My order was received in February 2017, when things still seemed to be happening. It’s been a bit quiet lately though to have much hope for any outstanding orders. I do wish they would say something.
  15. As some folks are still asking on this thread, here’s a link to my earlier post: I’m still working on assembly of the individual parts, and I’ve chose to glue everything, which extends the time it all takes. My layout has only just ‘settled’ into something I can build on. I’ll know more by March (I have a goal to have a loop running my then) as to if it was worth it or not. But at least I got all I ordered, so I’m ahead of most who threw money at this. Edit: FWIW, I’m in Australia