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About cptkent

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  1. Hi Michael. Any chance of an update on your roadmap? I’m wondering if we will see R120 next year?
  2. DCC and every other fancy thing is great. But I think such a power supply, and a simple motor, would be the backbone of any L-gauge ‘system’. Track-motor-controller, for everyone who just wants to get started running trains. Great stuff Fx team.
  3. cptkent

    12v layout

    That was cool. Give me some motivation to get my tracks powered. Wish I had some switches too.
  4. cptkent

    Alternative brick track

    I'm not sure what materials work best outside. I think a simplified track piece such as this, less prone to getting dirt and debris stuck in it, would be great outdoors.
  5. cptkent

    Alternative brick track

    At first I thought “that’s going to be a garden layout part” - and it still could be. I like your idea.
  6. You lost me at ‘Wow!’
  7. Well I could.... but it's probably best I left the conversation.... My R72 was drawn years ago (probably before Michael announced his, when I was expecting ME models rails) and it appears I've drawn it with one less sleeper. My diagram has 5 full sleepers, Michaels (and, FWIW, the ME models track) has 6. The sleepers were never used for practical purposes, so I never noticed the mistake. I thought what I had may have been helpful, but it appears not. I can fix it easy enough (and probably will) but it still only shows sleepers, not ballast, so it may not be that useful anyway. Let me know if you want me to do a revised version. Sorry for any confusion. David PS. I'll take down the incorrect images, and see if I can edit the previous post. Edit. I did a revised version. Some studs appear close, but nothing is a direct match of any kind. Again, ballast may be different.
  9. L-gauge seems to be a repository of sorts" http://l-gauge.org/wiki/index.php?title=Reference_Instructions#Bogies_.2F_Trucks_.2F_Wheels Probably not entirely what you're looking for, but a start.
  10. I am so “on the fence” about this. I love the idea, and especially the motor.... but I have: 9v / RC / PF / PU and fxbrick. It’a already bad enough! But that tram is sooo cute!
  11. cptkent

    Switches controlled by external levers

    I knocked up a simple switch control servo a couple of years ago, during a period when I didn't have access to my LEGO sets. I figured a 'wired' solution may be easiest for what I wanted at the time, just a remote way of powering and controlling a switch. I wanted to learn how the servos worked, and roughly prototyped something, but stopped at this point knowing it was a solution I could use, but a decent implementation would have to wait for another day: Link
  12. cptkent

    Increasingly losing patience with Lego

    Given the brief of evidence you’ve assembled to argue the case that LEGO does such a crap job with trains, I’m not sure I’d like to see them increase their commitment to the theme. Surly it would just be a continuation of the downward spiral 12v / 9v / PF / PU etc etc...
  13. A great review, leaves very few questions unanswered, and I like the rolling updates. On the topic of 'cant', I've seen other curved rails (R120 from another manufacture) do the same thing, or a little worse. I find the curved tracks seem perfect in single pieces, but over 1/4 or more loop, they do not accurately form the expected arc. Forcing them slightly to lay where they should (ie, ends pinned on a baseplate) produces cant and stresses the joints. The issue seems to be caused by very minor, so I've not even raised it with the manufacturer. I'd just presumed that if the moulding tolerances weren't 100%, then they would add up over the course of 1/4 loop, or longer, and cause issues. If the FX curves can be pinned at each end of a 1/4 loop, and ballasted without issue, then that's fine by me.
  14. If you can’t find anything on Bricklink, PM me, I have a box full of r40 curves.
  15. Great news. I hope you have made enough to go around! And I hope R120 or bigger is on your radar - it's my missing link...