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Found 24 results

  1. [MOD] UCS Slave 1 + Lights!

    Hi all! I hope I'm doing this correctly?! I don't usually find my way over to the Star Wars section but wanted to share my Slave 1 with you all! I snagged the idea from a guy on Reddit who added white lights into his Slave 1 to light up the engines, and I loved the look! I knew I had to do it myself. To make it more of my own take on it I decided to change the lights to orange to try and match the engine colour better. I've also swapped out the trans-blue 1x1 tiles on the top engine for trans-orange, and have some trans-orange discs coming to replace the lower blue ones. Anyway, I hope you guys like! I plan on getting some more lights into the cockpit at some stage but didn't think orange would suit in there. You can just about see the battery pack sitting on the stand underneath with a bit of wire showing. I plan to try and hide this a bit better at some point. Signed by the main man himself :) Played around with the photo a bit as it was still light out when I took pictures... Lastly, the back! I might try and fill the last 3 holes with either more LED's to make the bottom engines brighter but if I did 6 at the bottom I'd only have 8 for the top (there's currently 14). Bonus pic - quick photo of just after I put them in. I pulled the curtain shut to try and get it a little darker but even then it was still quite light and they stand out ok. I need to change the 8x1 brick at the top for a flat 8x1 so it sits flush again, but other than that, and swapping trans-blue for trans-orange I've not amended the build. I hope you guys enjoyed!
  2. Hello guys. Lately I'm having fun with LEGO and stop motion. I want to share this last video with you. Hope you like it.
  3. The Samurai Code represents an ancient Japanese village in Feudal Japan. The courtyard on top of the grand stair case has a samurai dojo, shinto shrine, and Japanese bell. Stunning waterfalls, ponds, rivers, caves, rice fields, volcano, and Japanese characters throughout. Play features like power functions and zip line. Illuminates with LED lights. Please support my Idea project! Thanks for viewing! :-) Lego Samurai Code by Ben Pitchford, on Flickr Lego Samurai Code by Ben Pitchford, on Flickr Lego Samurai Code by Ben Pitchford, on Flickr Check out my Idea project: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/142449 More High Res Pics: https://www.flickr.c...57668066439040/ Time Lapse Video:
  4. Hi Guys, I got a bit carried away with my latest lighting setup and thought I would share my progress. I started off just wanting front and rear white/red lights but... well video's speak louder than words.. I have an ESP8266 onboard programmed with the Arduino IDE. The motor is controlled with a RC brushed motor ESC and the LED's (6 in total) are all programmable so they only need 1 output pin for all 6. It is communicating by MQTT and at the moment I am using Home Assistant just as a test controller but the plan is to use it with 4DBrix's nControl software as the features become available. A benefit of using Home Assistant lets me control it from my phone or PC. It will work across the web as well but I don't really have the need to control my trains from outside the house. Not yet anyway... I'll get some video's about the build up when I can Mike
  5. I have some difficulties in placing this topic in correct section. Should it be Trains? On the other hand it is supposed to work in a modular town, that's why I put it in Town. This is my biggest creation so far. Actually those are two modulars designed to be placed together on a display. The depth is 48 studs instead of regular 32 because of tracks and platform. I decided it was unrealistic to stick to 32 and still have decent building. Anyway, on with presentation :) What I hope is apparent from the picture above is that I incorporated some lights into these structures. The old 9V battery box is in the warehouse and gives power to all six pairs of lights (2x 9V in warehouse and 4x PF in station). There is also old style 9V switch that controls turning lights on and off without the need to reach for the battery box (black switch on the side of the warehouse). Before I show you the warehouse let's have a look at the platform: The warehouse: This is how the electric parts are distributed in the warehouse. You can also see the inside with some pallets and a cupboard for employees. Now, let's have a look at the station building: First - the roof. This is where I put all the lights that go with the station. This is how it looks like from the underside: That's 4 pairs of PF lights, one PF extension cable and one 9V cable to provide easy to disconnect outlet. The station itself has some nice flowers on the front, benches for passengers, some roof over the platform and a phone booth. That's what you could already see from the outside. So let's have a look inside :) There is a bit o a stir at the moment because of some careless passenger. Don't worry - this is being cleaned as we speak :) Looking from the front of the station you have confectionery that sells ice cream too and on the right your typical railway station fast food stand (with microwave in case your yesterday pizza is cold! :D) Looking from the platform side on the left there are some tables belonging to the restaurant, ticket booth and some waiting area. On the right there is an obligatory public toilet :), two gaming machines and luggage deposit lockers. If you wonder how it looks in town - its natural environment - here are just a couple of pictures: Full gallery is available as always on my Bricksafe: http://bricksafe.com...-with-warehouse
  6. MOD: 60052 Cargo Train

    I bought and assembled 60052 Cargo Train. The holes on the top of the engine bother me so I wanted to cover them up. I ended up making a bunch other modifications along the way: Added Power Function LED ditch lights Changed style of radiator grills Added air intake grills Added dynamic brake grills Moved fan #1 forward for dynamic brakes Moved fans #2 and #3 further back Added exhaust port Covered up unnecessary openings in the roof Changed to smaller sized horns Changed style of fuel tank Switched doors around so they are no longer suicide doors Added dual transclear stud lights to back Changed bley brack in front roof to black I guess it looks a bit like an EMD GP38 now. Please excuse my messy building table. 60052 MOD by dr_spock_888, on Flickr
  7. I'm happy to present to you my first modular building. I have put it on Ideas too, so if you like it, please support: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/106103. Some time ago my daughter got this Duplo set from her aunt: http://brickset.com/...ative-Ice-Cream That got me thinking I could use one of these cones for my own purposes, especially since my little one was very interested in throwing bricks across the room, instead of proper play (or maybe that was proper play ;) ). Anyway I borrowed four bricks from her (I honestly intend to give those back to her) and thought it would be nice to make a big advert out of this ice cream and make it rotate. Such an Ice Cream Parlor should have nice clientele drawn by this big sign of what's inside :) So power functions was a must. But since I was to integrate PF info a modular, why not go further and add some lights too? When I was young (long time ago...) I always liked things that moved and had lights :P so you can call it late compensation :P Later on I will present it module by module, but if you want to have a quick look at it in action, here's a video: Ok, so let's start with a view of all the modules separately: And now let's talk about the ground floor: As you can see, on the right there is the ice cream parlor with seating available inside and at the back of the building. You can buy ice cream, lemonade, donuts and coffee. The staff is taken from the Ice Cream Machine set :) I'm happy with the bench - it gave me some headache, but I wanted to have something distinctive. The lamp is also different to typical one, but it's nothing special. On the left there is an entrance to the owner's apartment. There is also a small storage room for bike. The top of it is removable for easier access, but you can get the bike in and out through the door (but it's tricky). Ok, now - the heart of the modular - the Power Functions module: All electronic components are here. That is: 1 Rechargeable battery 2 switches 3 sets of PF lights (so 6 sources of lights total) 1 M motor Of course apart from that there are also all the technic components to make it work. The motor is running the Duplo brick with a 1:9 reduction. The lights are provided for the ice cream parlor (4 of them), entrance to the staircase (1) and the apartment (1 for the table lamp seen above). My idea was to be able to control lights and motor separately, that's why I have 2 switches here. Look closely at the picture above. There are two holes for technic axles above. The one on the left is for access to the switch controlling the motor (advert). The hole on the right allows access to the switch controlling all the lights. Those go on/off simultaneously. You can't have just part of them on. That would require even more switches and there is simply no room for that. It's crammed inside already. Now, have a look at the bottom of this module where all the lights can be seen and the front of this module, which allows access to the rechargeable battery in case you need to recharge it (power cord access). Through the holes in the front section you can turn the battery on/off and change the voltage too. Now, the last two modules are the roof and the apartment of the owner. It's not much room inside - the advert required quite some space already, but it's cosy :P As you have seen already this apartment get light from the lamp on the table, which is actually part of the Power Functions module. Yes, I know the TV is kind of useless on that wall, but... hey, he wanted a TV so I gave him one :P So, how do you operate this thing? With a KEY :) and last, but not least - two pictures of it with lights on, and ambient lights off: Full gallery is available on my Bicksafe: http://www.bricksafe...ce_Cream_Parlor I hope you enjoyed this little presentation. Please consider support on Ideas: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/106103
  8. [MOD] 60098 Red Diesel Modifications

    Evening All, While we are waiting for the 2016 50th anniversary Creator Train that will be a three-in-one that can be assembled as a Mallard, Challenger or Crocodile. (I may have made that up) I thought it would be interesting to ask what mods are out there for the current Red Cargo Train? I'll start off with my simple MOD to add lights and lower the roof profile. I think this makes a huge difference to the roofline without losing the character of the locomotive. It makes a smooth line from front to rear and gets rid of that unsightly grey stripe. 60098 mod by Canvas Rails, on Flickr At the other end of the spectrum, Lok24 has a MOC that looks a bit like a 60098 on the outside but includes remote uncoupling! Murdoch17, you were doing some great LDD work with this back in May; did you end up building any of your mods in brick when the set came out? MODders, what have you got?
  9. This is a MOC I have made based off of the steiger line of tractors. I have decided to put this project on Lego Ideas, and was hoping many you could support it. I am striving for this to become a Lego set. I do understand that there is less of a chance for this to become a Lego set because it is Technic. I would appreciate no negative comments about this Technic creation being on Lego ideas. Only constructive criticism please. If you could share this around, or just support it. Every supporter counts! Here are a few pictures of the model: Link: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/114366 This MOC functions include: Lights All wheel drive Articulated steering Working steering wheel Openable hood to reveal a in-line 6 engine Working PTO A VIdeo of the Tractor: Thanks for the comments and support!
  10. I've recently picked up the 12v controller and a signal set, and intend to pick up some lamps too. I really like both the look and the way they are controlled. I also love the way it's all controlled from one central control unit. So here's my question: Has anybody either modified the innards of the 12v controller to drive 9v or modified 12v motors and controller to rail wires to run without the central rails? I'm keeping my mind pretty open at the moment, just looking for ideas that (with the minimum of modifying aging mechanisms) that would allow me to use any part of the 12v system on a more modernly powered layout. Worst case scenario, I'll just use the controller as a signalbox and nothing more, it's still pretty cool. :)
  11. Just short, like in a title 2 pairs of PF lights 1 PF M motor 1 PF battery box
  12. Hi, Forget 41999, just look at this beauty build by Madoca! The best middle scale I have ever see!:) Perfect! Sorry Madoca, if you wanna post it by yourself...cant wait to share my emotions:))) instruction is here: https://plus.google.com/photos/117021167471864977943/albums/5901503914497924817/5901958760391507362?partnerid=gplp0&pid=5901958760391507362&oid=117021167471864977943
  13. The Magic Kingdom In Lego

    Hello, This topic is devoted to my latest project, building the Magic Kingdom in Walt Disney World in Lego. Hello, For this project, I am planning to in some shape or form recreate the firework show "Wishes!" that is at the Magic Kingdom. I have been reviewing different ideas and brainstorming for the few weeks. I have seen some people do similar things and use a projection type of system, however in order for this to work everything must line up perfectly so that the show looks realistic. I have also seen a actual miniature recreate of "Fantasmic!" in Disneyland, however I am not sure if it is a good idea to light small fireowrks off around Lego, much less inside. Does anyone have any ideas on how I can recreate the show?
  14. Hello, I'm Tim. I'm new to EB. I had an idea to make working warning lights with only non rare lego bricks. So i came up with this idea: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GAaL5OIw7M I hope you liked it, Tim
  15. [ MOC ] Hit me ! - The Dark Knight

    Hello Eurobricks . This is the build I made to showcase my Batpod , as well as replicate one of my favourite scenes from "The Dark Knight" ( probably my favourite movie , along with the rest of the trilogy ) . The lamp posts (which along with the batpod are the most " tricky " parts of the build to get right ) took a while to design , as I wanted them to actually light up , and I'm not a big fan of 3d-party lighting for Lego so I had to use the PF lights . The solution came from modding the lights by removing the covering so that they get "bar" (lightsaber blade) wide , so they can fit through pins ( you can find some tutorials online but it's not necessary , you can probably figure it out by yourself ) . The lamp posts are also designed to look exactly like the ones in the film . The batpod is probably one of the best things I've ever built ( at least in my opinion ) and I think it is the very , very close to the " real thing " , at least for mining scale . I wont't talk too much about it , since there is a post just for it right here , so head there for more details about it . The "road" part of the build is simple and somewhat plain, but I like how it looks , and I believe it should be plain as it is so that it doesn't distract from the main part of the build , the two rivals . Finally , the minifigure roster includes the "Tumbler" 's Joker , as well as my custom pad printed Batman ( Dark Knight and Dark Knight Rises suit ) , one of the few Lego Batmen with regular ,non-cartoony-white eyes . So , enough with the boring talk , and on with the pictures : Here is a main shot with everything . you will notice the cables leading to the lamp posts . Again , yes those are modded PF lights and do actually light up , which is barely visible on these photos , as the light they produce is nothing in comparison to the flash of the camera used . A shot of the Dark Knight running full speed for Joker , considering breaking his "one rule" . Here is the lamp post again , sorry if the shadow is a bit distracting , I tried many things to avoid a shadow that can be confused with the build , but with no success . The cables go to the back of the lamp post , and are held there by a 1x1 brick with hole . The go all the way till the pavement , and there again they are held under it with another 1x1 brick with hole . Here is the Joker , equipped with a brickarms weapon ( I can't remember the exact model ) . He is , in my opinion , the best minifigure TLG has ever produced for the Superheroes Line , he looks just like he does ain the movie , and really stands out next to any minifigure . An above shot from Batman's POV , as he heads straight for the Joker . You can get a good perspective view of the whole thing here ( except from the street lights ) . The "set" , without the minifigs and batpod . Joker stands on the stud to the right , while Bats' bike just stands on its own ( it's kinda unstable but not too much ) . Also you can see the cables coming out from under the pavement . A final shot of Bats heading straight from the camera . Thank you all guys for viewing I hope you liked it . Please leave a comment , I want to hear as many opinions and suggestions as you guys can come up with . The Caped Crusader
  16. Classic Town Review: 6481 CONSTRUCTION CREW by Plate Hi all! Searching in the forum I realised that this set needed a review. This a set from my childhood, i played a lot with, and as I'm cleaning up and restoring all my classic old sets, decided to do this little review. I have no instruction booklet either box, they were lost :-(. So…lets go! SET NUMBER: 6481 NAME: Construction Crew THEME: Town SUBTHEME: Construction YEAR RELEASED: 1989 PIECES: 169 MINIFIGURES: 2 PACKAGING: Box EXTRAS: 9V lights elements Brickset: http://brickset.com/...nstruction-Crew PIECES The set has 169 pieces: Here you can see the hinge black pieces that allows the excavator to change direction( steering). Once i did the picture i realized that I forget the electric cable and some elements (turnable and some working tools): A nice bunch of tools! All parts are printed, no stickers (hurrah!!) MINIFIGURES 2 mini figures are included in the set: an excavator driver and a worker. The front torso of the driver has a classic town worker print and the front of the worker as a nice speedway symbol on it.Backs are not printed. These are road workers as you can guess. Classic air and red cap and classic minifig faces. CONSTRUCTION Easy step construction, as i mentioned, i don't have the original booklet, but i found the instructions here: http://lego.brickins...nstruction_Crew By clicking in the link you can see not only the instructions, but the features of the 9V light system. We start with the excavator: Finished model: Front and back views: Next we build the trailer: The electric cable goes under the battery box: Finished trailer: You can put some of the tools on the top of the trailer. And…finished model, trees and road plate are not included in the set. FEATURES The playability of this set is awesome! You can attach the trailer to the excavator or put it apart. Both the excavator and the trailer have directional features (steering), and both can turn. The trailer has a lot of tools including a pneumatic hammer. It has the light system, that can be combined, so you can take out the lights from the fences and put in the light bulbs. There are 3 light bulbs in the set. If you turn this piece you can change the feature from blinking to fixed light. The on-off feature works by pushing the grey piece on the battery box. RATING Build:9/10 Its an easy build with a little SNOT. Design:10/10 Price: I don't remember, but sure my parents paid it! Playability:10/10 Minifigures: 10/10 Parts:10/10 OVERALL: 100% Okay, i can't be objective here. Its a set with which I played a lot. If you have it, you know what I'm speaking of.Very very nice set. A video here: https://flic.kr/p/qhy1z3
  17. For some time I've been missing flashing PF lights. Yes, you can achieve flashing PF lights with motors, but there has to be a better way, also to allow more dynamic flashing options. A suggestion for this is shown below. It's also on Cuusoo - support and share if you like it. Flash element allows you to create flashing PF lights by setting the duration of the light/flash and delay (time between light/flash) plus an A and B version for more exciting flash combinations for your creations. Flash element must always be on top of connections to other elements to avoid interfering with their power supply (flash will only affect elements added to the top of the flash element). If you need more flash elements on the same battery box: simply add an extension wire and then the flash element. The unit will always flash, no matter the direction of the current. Old 9V bulbs would change state from flashing to fixed if current was reversed. PF flash element will always flash.
  18. Hello, Last summer, I build some MOC's that I haven't posted here yet, due to school. Well, here is one of them: The dodge challenger 1970! http://farm6.staticf...83caab960_z.jpg This scale model of the Dodge has following features: Remote controlled independent suspended Lights (2 pairs in front, 1 in the back) with switch hidden under the rear Rc motor for drive medium motor and hockey spring for RTC steering All pics can be found in my flickr set: http://www.flickr.com/photos/tibivi/sets/72157637671354815/with/11066720816/ Hope you like it! Best regards, Tibivi
  19. Today I present a quick MOC, that I made. To start, let me just say that I actually made my first tracked vehicle exactly one year ago from today, so I thought why not make another one, but better. It features full suspension with trailing arms connected to a hard 6L shock absorber, two pairs of LED's (1 front/1 rear) connected to a switch in the cab, as well as a strong drivetrain using 2 XL motors geared 1:1. Also the Triple A battery box is placed behind the 2 XL's. Sorry for the shortage of pictures, but as I was taking them it was snowing. I will have more pictures on my blog once I post it later today.
  20. Hey there everyone, I'm Joev14, a new guy on the forums. I got myself pretty much all the fall 2013 star wars sets, and have been experimenting with an idea I had, what if it were possible to put working lego electronic lights into a Republic Gunship and AT-TE, without using any modified parts. After much work, I have finally found a way to do lights in both the AT-TE and the Gunship. So without further ado, I present to you, building steps for how to install working unmodified lights into your Republic Gunship. Click the photos to be linked to larger versions of the images. Sorry for the change in lighting throughout the pictures, sometimes the flash from my camera makes it hard to see the separate white parts, so I don't always use it. Step 1: Begin with a standard 75021 Republic Gunship (Mine is slightly modded with orange accents and a few other things, but the base design is still the same) Step 2: Absolutely necessary parts. You will also need a wire of whatever desired length (I recommend the 15-stud long ones), and two of these lights. Step 3: Recommended parts Step 4: Remove any parts that may get in your way, including minifigs inside the hangar. I also recommend removing the wings, although you don't absolutely need to. Step 5: Remove this chunk of the ship. Step 6: Remove the two sides of the upper section of the ship. Step 7: Continue by removing all the above-shown parts. Step 8: Remove the 4 containers. It is your choice whether or not you want to keep them. I chose to turn them into a crate as shown below. Step 9: Canister pod Step 10: Remove these two pieces Step 11: Replace the four openings where the canisters used to be with these four bricks. Also, run a wire from the hanger roof through the opening in front of the handle as shown. Step 12: Place these three plates on the bottom of the battery box. Make sure to put in a 9V battery first, so you don't have to go back and do it later! Step 13: Place the battery box in the space shown. Attach the lead of wire to the battery box (make sure to skip one set of studs, this is crucial). Step 14: Place two of the slopes in front of the wire end, and two small cheese slopes behind the co-pilot. Place 2 L-shaped plates around the wire opening. Step 15: Place two 1x2 plates ontop of the L-shaped ones, then another two L-shaped plates facing in the opposite direction atop those. Finally, place two 1x3 plates ontop, bridging the battery box to the L-shaped plates. Step 16: Place two more 1x3 plates on both sides of the end of the wire. Place two rounded slopes atop them, and finally, place a 2x4 tile on top of the wire end. Step 17: Place two more rounded slopes to cover the wiring. Step 18: Reattach the remaining large sections of the upper part of the ship, excluding the wings. You may fill in the gaps as desired. I intentionally left the 1x4 block area behind the co-pilot exposed so you can still press the button on the battery box. Step 19: Next comes the lights. There is no specific way you have to place them, but I chose to do it in this configuration. With a few red studs, as well as two round trans-orange bricks, I can get the two lamps to light up the whole hangar. Step 20: Above are the parts you should still have remaining, assuming you used the same method I did. Step 21: Reattach the wings and put all your figs back in, your done! Step 22: And boy does it look sweet! What are everyone's thoughts/suggestions for this? The only thing that really seemed to have me stumped was the rounded slopes in front of the handle, I couldn't figure out a sturdier design. While it does hold up, it looks a little awkward with all the obvious spaces between the bricks. I can't figure out a better looking way to do it and still have room for the wire though. Ideas? Facecast Episode discussing these modifications: (skip to 15:20) I will be posting the guide for how to put lights into a 75019 AT-TE soon!
  21. New lighting

    I'm a big fan of life lights, but I've always wanted to do my own wiring, and I always keep my eyes open for new things... I found these - "Holiday Time" lights - at Walmart while picking up hangers for my real house Christmas Lights. I don't have a lot of time, I'd like to take better pictures (this was taken on my tablet). I just draped the lights over my display, I'll neaten it all up and take better pictures, but didn't want to wait, I figured people would be interested. holiday time lights by FredJH, on Flickr holiday time lights by FredJH, on Flickr It was $5.99, uses three AAA batteries. I can't find a link, but I found other Google hit called "fairy lights."
  22. I had a whole stack of broken 12v light bricks where the bulb had gone. In particular they don't last that long when set in lamp posts. Sick of buying more so needed a way of replacing the bulb with a longer lasting LED. The first difficultly was finding the right LED with a built in resistor so they can run straight off the 12v power supply. I hadn't found 3mm white/clear LEDs before, just coloured ones, but found a supplier here for what I needed. These should also work fine for 9v. Then the other tricky bit was to open up the light brick without breaking it. This wasn't as difficult as I first thought, so here is the guide - no soldering and no glue! The tools used (almost common household items!) excluding the light brick and LED are : 1. A micro-screwdriver. 2. A bent curtain hook. 3. Some sharp nail scissors. Step 1. Using the screwdriver scrape off the plastic tab that helps hold into place the inner part of the light brick : Step 2. Using the holes for the plug as an anchor lever out the inner part of the light brick with the sharp end of the bent curtain hook until you can get under it : Step 3. If the inner part is still not loose rotate the other end of the curtain hook in the space made at the bottom : Step 4. Take out the inner part : Step 5. Use the micro srewdriver to remove the old bulb and contacts until the inner part is clear : Step 6. Throw away the old bulb and wiring and Insert the LED : Step 7. Bend the LED wires around the light brick making sure the LED is centred : Step 8. With the screwdriver continue to bend the LED wires into the plug contact holes : Step 9. Re-insert the metal contacts. This may take some force, but it will be this additional friction which means the removal of the plastic tab earlier doesn't matter : Step 10. Trim off the excess LED wires with the scissors : Step 11. Re-join the central part of the light brick with the cover (remember which way is up!) : Complete! Remember as it's an LED it won't work plugged in either way to the power supply, but that doesn't bother me in the slightest as you just turn the plug around / swap the pins if it doesn't work For train lights where the power will be reversed when you reverse the train I can recommend Janco's light bricks which are superb
  23. Hi guys, my 1st post/question, does any one know how to make alternating flashing lights like a railroad crossing has? (Flashes left-right-left-right) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Z9pAUemAw4 Or even to make flashing lights like this: Heres a video of a railroad crossing: Thanks.
  24. I am building a new car, in style of musclecar from 60's: long and quadrat. I want that car to be agressive and brutal. There are some variants of the front grille and lights, but cant make best decision. Please help me to choose the best. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Or may be quadrat lights (right side)? If it is possible, someone make a POLL here. I dont have such rights yet... Thank you.