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Found 301 results

  1. Hello Eurobrick. Let me introduce you my "holidays' MOC" : the tracked loader. It is the merging of a traditionnal articulated wheel loader and the tracks I build few months ago for the Cossack. In the main lines: it is a 4x4 vehicle with a steering by articulation and a rear pendular axle. The bucket is elevated by a pair of linear actuator and tilted by a single actuator. The rear hood is openable and reveals a functionnal mini V6 engine and an easy access to the BuWizz. The loader is equipped with a minimalistic cabin (seat and fake steering wheel) and has access ladder and platform with handrail. All the images are available on FlickR There is 4 PF-M motor used in this MOC, one for each function: – Propulsion – Steering through two mini-LA – Elevation of the bucket through two LA – Tilting of the bucket through on LA All the functions are controlled through a single BuWizz. Special note regarding the engine : The V6 engine has been designed once all the motor and Buwizz were installed. As a consequence, only a 5×8 studs hole was available. The V6 engine fits in this space and is functional. See the video here below for more detail. Thank you for reading ! If you're interested, the complete review of this MOC is available on Superk-Technic.com
  2. I guess you could say I couldn't make up my mind about the kind of Unimog I wanted to make next. So I decided to make a platform that would support multiple versions. Features: Interchangeable platform Long and short wheelbase options Standard and Doka cabs, removable Manual control PF control (drop in) Front and rear suspension Steering 4x4 with I-4 fake motor Opening doors and hood Tipper bed options Feel free to check out thirdwigg.com to learn more about the build. Manual SWB with tipper bed. Manual LWB Doka with tipper bed. Power Functions (XL drive, Servo steering) LWB with cover. Manual LWB with canvas bed showing the suspension travel. You can find more pictures on my flickr. I have been adding instructions for the various versions here, and more will be added over the coming weeks. Someday I'll make a camper, because, everyone needs a camper. This was a fun project, and I loved the way it turned out. I have the LWB on my desk right now, and I keep getting distracted from work. I hope to add additional options for the system at some point, and will take other suggestions for versions to add. Hope you enjoy.
  3. Hi all, since 7777 book came out, I've always wanted to integrate Trains and Technic worlds. Back in the 80's the problem was the complete lack of train wheels with a Technic axle hole. It was solved with RC trains a lot of years later. Therefore, I can convert a 9v train to PF without too many problems (aesthetically speaking). But for 12V trains it is different. Wheels are made in a specific way, they have the hole for connecting rods, they're more "fat" than RC/PF wheels. Frankly, I do not like 12V trains converted to 9V/PF standard bogies. But I like the PF motor, its speed, the possibility to increase speed gradually...and the fact it keeps the central hole for third wheel. So, in these years I repaired a lot of 12V motors...and some were really in bad shape. Look at the right wheel, it is completely destroyed inside. So I decided to try to implement my solution to connect standard, intact 12V wheels to technic axleholes (which I do not list here, since it was not satisfying). First, I got a standard Technic bush, and cut it a bit. Then I put it inside the damaged wheel hole. It fits fine, but needs to be glued. Once glued, it is time for some testing. The 6-long axle goes right in - but the red ring coming out from the wheel is too thick. So I prepared another wheel (gray bush). This time I cut the bush a bit shorter and fits right. The 5.5 axle is perfect , so I'll need to cut two 6-long axles to the right lenght. And this is the result - this is my 7740 no°3, totally converted to PF. It works fine, but as you all can imagine, it is all made by hand and bushes are not machinery-centered. Therefore the locomotive is not stable as I would like. For the moment, better than nothing!
  4. Hi everyone, Finally, I have finished a project which I was building since last September. It is the scale model of the Intrac 2011 snow blower which is/was often used in the swiss alps by the army and other communal parties. It was the aim to create another working snow blower after the success of the snow blower from last winter. The blower is powered by three buggy-motors which are all controlled by a separate Sbrick. Each track is driven by two PF XL motors. The snow blower shoot direction is controlled by two 9-volt micro motors and the height of the snow blower by one PF L motor. As power source I used two Buwizz as battery or a custom lipo battery. After a certain time in the cold I had the replace the Buwizz with the custom lipo battery. Cheers FT
  5. Updated: BrickController Android application. It lets you to control Lego creations via Lego infra-red, SBrick and BuWizz V1 and V2 using any Android compatible game controller: Current version: BrickController 0.32 User guide: BrickController User Guide Minimum system requirement: Android 4.4 and bluetooth low energy support on the phone (or tablet) Video on the older SBrickController application:
  6. JEB314 (James)

    60154 + 4564 = 37?

    First off, I would like to say that, no, I am not terrible at maths! All shall be explained! (Sorry, this may be quite a lot of reading!) The Back Story: First aspect: Some weeks ago, I was having a general look for sets that might be of interest to me. I stumbled upon a very good deal on the Lego City Bus Station (Set no. 60154). I decided in a spur of the moment purchase to pick up 2 sets, with no real plan… That’s what sowed the seed! Second aspect: In the not so distant past, I had purchased a huge Lego haul from eBay containing many train set items and accessories. In amongst this, was an incomplete copy of the Lego Freight Rail Runner (Set no. 4564) – (maybe 80% complete) – at the time I didn’t really know what to do with it. Over time I harvested the 9V motor, wheels, couplings, bogie plates, wagon parts and straight track – basically all the good stuff! Now, I’m a big fan of seeing people doing set combining! I have never seen anyone attempt something like this! (Correct me if I’m wrong!) The Hypothesis: “Is it feasible to make a decent looking locomotive of any kind, combining Sets 60154 and 4564? – Using minimal significant other parts, but in cases where necessary only using parts I currently have, and not resorting to ordering things. The locomotive should ideally use Power Functions with 2 motors, lights are not necessary. Also, the finished model should be sturdy, strong, and able to be played with by children.” Answer, Was It Possible? Yes, and in my opinion, it turned out rather well. What I attempted to build was a massively simplified Class 37, with much artistic licence! Here is the finished product: Thus, the idea for “60154 + 4564 = 37?” was born! What do you think? Any questions, thoughts, or criticism will be much appreciated. Regards, James :)
  7. Yes, it's an airplane that can drift! (or rather do doughnuts) But first, I think the video is the best introduction: Cool, isn't it? I was actually very surprised how well it worked when I first tested it - especially considering how bad my previous MODs were.. (in fact, it's probably the only RC set MOD that I've done that worked at all!) It was quite a challenge to fit all the electrics in such a small body, and was actually the main reason why I only kept one of the original functions... Features: Steering - powered by PF servo. Drive - geared down 3:5 from fast output of buggy motor. Motorized wings (not RC) - powered by PF M-motor. Easy to remove battery box - if not using rechargeable battery. Other Specs: Weight: 650g (with rechargeable battery) Original functions kept: 1 (out of 3) Theoretical top speed: 14km/h (at least) Links: YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pTW9vclg0c Bricksafe: https://www.bricksafe.com/pages/mocbuild101/9394-rc-dragster-mod Contest voting: https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/162664-ams-2-dragify-your-set-voting More photos: Enjoy! And don't forget to vote!
  8. I finally had time to play with the Powered Up elements from the new Train sets. They surely don't represent the complete PU system yet, but we can draw a lot of conclusions from them:
  9. I was playing around with power functions remotes, trying to bash out a joystick-style remote control for my latest project, but all my efforts were unsatisfying to me. So I searched around for some designs and I came upon Technic Dragon's excellent design. Having found it to my liking, shamelessly ripped it off drew inspiration from it to make this remote. The design is practically the same, I only made small improvements to decrease the part count. I hope you all find it to your liking as well. Here's the LDD file. Hope you enjoy it!
  10. Hello fellow LEGO enthusiasts, I am Boxerlego. I want to Introduce myself along with this technical tutorial on a dual PF battery box setup. This no hack, this is science and knowledge along with real experience with each of the devices and their respective function. I will explain thoroughly why this works and why it is absolutely safe for the IR receivers and motors. First thing is some battery safety. It is very Important that you are using the same type of batteries for both the battery boxes. Never connect up two dissimilar types of batteries together. Connecting two 9 volt battery boxes together is very safe to do, nothing is going to "burn up" on you when connected together as mentioned. Each of the electrical connections are made entirely out of Lego and combines both style of electrical connections to get working. There will be a simple alternative method to hook up the dual battery setup only requiring the PF extension wires. Moving to motors. I suggest on using the PF L or XL motor or a 5292 buggy motor with this battery setup. This is not for powering servo motors or micro motors old the old 9V motors. It is important to know that there is a resettable fuse protecting each of the suggested motors along with the battery boxes and IR receivers. I do not recommend putting the voltage over 16 volts on the Lego motors. Most motors typically can handle 12 volts. There are many things to understand about the electrical function that is at work here. I have created Two simple pictures detailing the two electrical functions and how they both end up at 18 volts. I will start with the #2 picture. The #2 picture represents when the battery boxes are connected together in series providing you with a +18 volt power. Understand that all the electrical wires are connected together to establish a electrical path, directly connecting both the battery boxes together to function as one combined battery box for the motor. The #1 picture represents using the dual IR receiver connection and how you can safely create a voltage gap between a positive(+) and a negative(-). Neither of the IR receivers is ever exposed to the same load the motor is receiving. Instead, each of the IR receivers is carrying the load of their perspective battery box. This voltage gap creates the theoretical 18 volt supply for the motor. You will need 2x 9V PF battery box 2x IR receiver 3x PF extension wire 2x 9V Motor Wire 1x IR switch remote 1x of the suggested motors I will start with the two 9V motor wires... Connect the two 9V motor wires on a 2x6 plate like so... Look carefully at the short wire and how the electrical contacts are Aline... Connect two of the PF extension wires together with a 2x2 plate... Put a red and blue 1x2 plate on to the PF extension wires... Connect the PF extension wire setup to the 9V motor wire setup... This is what is should look like... Hook up your battery boxes with the IR receivers... (Important Note: If you are doing this with NO IR receivers, the switches on the battery boxes should be turned on opposite directions of each other when connected with the motor.) Make sure both IR receivers are set on the same channel... Connect the blue PF cable to the blue terminal on one of the IR receiver And then On the other IR receiver connect the red PF cable to the red terminal... (Note: If your doing this with out the IR receivers. Connect each of the cable to a separate battery box. Remember to switch the battery boxes on in opposite directions) Connect both the switches on the IR remote together as one and set on the same channel as the two IR receivers... It is very Important that the two polarity switches on the IR remote are switched opposite of each other... The 9V motor wire is where you will connect your motor to... When connecting up a PF motor simply connect the PF extension wire on top of the 9V motor wire and the PF motor on top of that and you ready to go. Here is a test to see if this increased voltage will cause any kind of damage to the motor when pulling up this 7.5 lb weight. The first test shows the safety fuse in action. Next I put the M motor to the 16 volt power pull test. The final video is a demonstration that no matter how big or small the battery is, a motor will behave the same as long the volts are the same. Edit: The information in this tutorial will be improved upon periodically.
  11. Hey guys, sorry I haven't posted in a while. I've had the clips to make this video for 2 months now, but not enough time to edit. Anyhow, with that said, here's what I have done. I have rebuilt both of the rear axles so they can be driven by 2 L-Motors, and rebuilt the front axle so that it can be steered by a servo, and still be able to fit an engine and have room in the cab for other motors. I also rebuilt the front of the truck since it seemed too sparse to me, but I've left the rest of the truck (besides some of the internals) original. I decided I only wanted to use a single Sbrick, and I had only one port left, since there was already an M-Motor in the model to drive the functions connected to the distribution gearbox, so I built a custom sequential shifter that I could fit in the cab, and access the axles of the changeover catches in the gearbox, and thus shift through the functions sequentially. This is done with one M-Motor. All of the internal mechanics of the gearbox were left stock, besides the elimination of any white 24 tooth clutch gears. I did not change the rest of the model that much, though I did think having an inline-4 seemed kind of lame, so I put in a V8 instead. i will not release any instructions due to the extense of the modifications. Please enjoy the video and photos below, and feel free to leave a reply!
  12. Just found this new video of a Polish Pm36-1 steam locomotive by Fasolic ( @solic ). I've not seen any coverage given to it, and it is a marvellous model, very much got LNER A4 vibes! Love the Dark Blue colour and the integration of full PF in the loco! Anyone know its history?
  13. While looking to buy a PF V2 receiver (58123bc01) I realized that it is only in 9398 and 41999 (both 4x4 crawlers), but is not in later sets like 42030 and 42065. I have been confused by this because I thought that it was suppose to replace the old receiver (58123c01). One thing I thought was that the insides were changed but they didn't have V2 printing, but why I don't know. Hopefully someone knows what's going on!
  14. Hello everyone. This is my modification of the truck vith container trailer. It is RC with power functions. 1 servo motor for steering 1 M motor for driving it is simply very cute to me and just fantastic to drive with this litle cute truck. and one simple video That's all for now. Best regards, Valter
  15. Hello, Technic, Mindstorms & Model Team people. I asked this question over at the Town forum (I'm trying to motorize some Fairground sets), but I think it might be better suited for his forum. Is there a difference between the technic-styled battery box (the one with the two sliding DBG panels for the battries) and the system-styled one? I only own technic-styled battery boxes, and I don't know if the system boxes give the motors different speeds or what. I already know there's an expensive system battery box that lets you regulate the speed, but I'd rather regulate the speed by using different cog sizes than shell out around 70CAD for a battery box.
  16. Terrasher

    Motorizing Fairground Sets

    Hi, I don't own any of the fairground sets, but I'll be adding a couple to my collection pretty soon and want to motorize them. I own the power functions battery boxes that are better suited for Technic sets. Is there a difference between this battery box and the system one that shows up in the new Rollercoaster video? I don't know if the speed of the motors will be different depending on what battery box is used.
  17. HenrikLego

    Motorization question

    If anyone can help me out, will this work? Motorization by Henrik Lorentzen, on Flickr I am working on a large steam engine now and trying to find a way to motorize it. Do you think this will work, will add some more support to the technic cross axles, but the gearing? L-motor. I plan on putting another L-motor using the same technique on of the other wheels. But I want to check with some experts before I test this on a real build.
  18. Commander Wolf

    [MOC] Miscellaneous Train Projects

    Finally getting around to posting some of these... I've been doing a bunch of small projects this year that I don't feel warranty their own thread, so this thread is going to be a home for said small projects. PRR MP54 Some years ago I built a set of PRR P54 coaches to go with my PRR T1. At the time I thought a fun future project would be to convert the cars to MP54 spec - the EMU version of the same car. Well, the future is now! Over the past few years I've been trying to build trains using all of various the LEGO motors, and the PF train motor was still on my hit list. I don't like the PF train motor that much because it doesn't have any low-speed torque, and the wheel spacing hasn't been correct for anything I've made so far. Recently I remembered about the MP54, and I thought it would be the perfect application - fast and doesn't need a lot of torque. Here is one of the original P54s as built: And here is the MP54 conversion: Of course the main difference is that there is a battery box, receiver, and motor in the MP54, but I've also updated the original model over the years, most noticeably by slowly collecting all the frames and glass. Other minor changes include the addition of headlights and a more vanilla bogie design to match the PF motor frames. Of course you want to see it go: I was really entertained by how fast it goes! Usually I prefer gearing down such that you get more torque and less speed, but watching this zip along is a fun change of pace. The pulling power isn't actually all that bad either, but as expected, you need to be going pretty fast before the PF train motor is generating any torque. One more interesting thing is that I'm actually using BBB wheels on the PF motor instead of the usual tyred wheels. I originally tried with the official wheels, but I due to the low torque I felt like it was really bogging down in the corners, so I tried the BBBs. This is a much smoother configuration, and it doesn't feel like I'm losing all that much grip. It can definitely pull at least the other two P54s and maybe another car or two. Okay, more to come soon. Hopefully.
  19. Here is a sneak peak of one of my biggest projects up to date: Project started with a new type of a gearbox, which uses only two toothgears at any time in order to transfer power from motors efficient to the wheels: Here are a few specs of the model: Length cca. 80cm when folded Width cca. 30cm Height cca. 25cm Weight cca. 4,5 cm Dual rear live axles in the back independent suspension in front 4 electrically controlled gears + 1 additional electro-pneumatically controlled gear Working towing arm in the back capable of lifting weights of over 1kg Dynamic lights All functions controlled by 3 Sbricks Currently we have snow here and I can't shoot a video as planned I will post more info as soon as I manage to take more photos and a video.
  20. richpantson

    PF powered wagon

    hello decided to start my BR Class 08 project and when sourcing parts I came across my PF powered wagon. I am planning in putting all the PF components into the Class 08 body, but having this push it around might be a good option while I sort out the mechanics for the 6 wheels. (PF train motor only has 4 wheels) Anyways for anyone interested heres my PF wagon and pushing my "Ruby Night"
  21. This MOC came about from my wanting of a super compact all-in-one Lego compressor, and after trying many different auto valve designs (and about a week of building), this is what I came up with: Video: Features: Air tank Automatic pressure switch M motor and 6L mini pump compressor Very compact 15 x 11 x 7 stud size Easy removal of battery box Pneumatic tube lengths: 1x 3L (2.4cm) 2x 10L (8cm) 1x 14L (11.2cm) All the pneumatic tube lengths listed above (and most of the other parts) are available in 8110-1 Unimog U400. Instructions are available on Rebrickable. The compressor uses a single 6L mini pneumatic pump, but can easily be modified for two pumps. The automatic cut-off pressure can easily be adjusted by changing the strength of the rubber bands attached to the pneumatic cylinder.
  22. This is my DIY LED lights on a budget. White 5mm LEDs are 2 cents each and resistors are 4 cents each on eBay. A large spool of wire-wrap wire costs around $5-7. Do-It-Yourself LEGO LED Light by dr_spock_888, on Flickr I tapped into the 9V and GND lines of the IR Receiver for power. Note this will void your warranty. Do so at your own risk. I fed the wires through the pin holes on the receiver. No drilling or cutting needed. I sandwiched the LED between two Technic 1x2 bricks. The 5mm sized LEDs fit right in the Technic hole. I decided to try wire-wrapping instead of soldering. It might be easier to disassemble later on. The LED turns on when the battery pack is turned on. It makes a good reminder to turn off the battery pack when done playing. Little Yellow Locomotive by dr_spock_888, on Flickr The hard part was calculating what size resistor to use to limit the current to the LED. Too much current will blow the LED. Tools used were small Philip head (+) screwdriver, wire cutter & stripper, soldering iron, wire-wrap tool, and tweezers. Plus a multimeter to verify polarity.
  23. Paperinik77pk

    MOC - 7720 reloaded (DB E69)

    Hi all, I'd like to show you a little thing I made 6 years ago for my daughter...and then became unused on the shelf since it was "retired" by Duplo trains. It was a sort of DB E69, used to transport frogs and penguins (all made with Lego Basic sets instructions). After she saw the real 7720 she liked the whole set. So I created a newer "clone" of the 7720 locomotive. This weekend I decided to revamp it a bit to make it work again. So I modified the roof, the handrails, the pantograph (which now is very similar to swiss ones) and made it a bit more "studless". The battery car is now blue instead of Yellow. It was - and still is - powered by a Medium PF motor, since it was not Infrared controlled and the standard PF train motor was too fast. Instead of IR receiver, it kept a "vintage" solution to be started. I used the PF lever the same way the 7720 used the red lever on battery box car. The IR receiver can be put inside the battery car if needed. As you can see, I have the same 7720 inverters placed on PF track...and the result is the following (sorry for the video quality, the phone cannot do better than this). The cat likes this "reversing" feature a lot! Next steps: two long two axles wagons resembling the 7720 ones, and the white doors on blue wagon created in SNOT mode (or a simple sticker, if I fail ) It is a silly train, but I hope you like it!
  24. Lego RC E-100 super heavy tank by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr I have been busy with my latest model, the WWII German prototype vehicle E-100. This one being my second rendition of it since 4 years ago, when I started building MOCs. This one is smaller and greatly improved scale accuracy. more information and photos on my blog. http://tommystyrvoky.blogspot.com/2018/02/e-100-super-heavy-tank.html instructions https://www.rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-13061/TommyStyrvoky/rc-e-100-super-heavy-tank/#comments The process of rendering all of the animations for this video took some time, as I rendered all of this on my laptop, the end result, each frame requiring about 5 minutes at only 720p , and well there are a few thousand frames rendered for the animations, and I also completely redid my channel outro with the new PBR shaders from Meccabricks. Lego RC E-100 super heavy tank by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr And after all of that time rendering I realized that I forgot to include the second turret hatch... This is probably one of my most accurate vehicles so far, given the constraints of lego, and the mechanical challenges. Though I am still striving to do better in the future. Lego RC E-100 super heavy tank by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr and a comparison with blueprints from the real one. E-100 Blueprint overlay by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr