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Found 34 results

  1. i just created some Lego battlebots maybe im hosting a little competition in Singapore during December holidays so far i have made a literal tank of a battlebot (brick on the floor with rotating cylinder) and it works decently here is it going against a smaller bot https://www.instagram.com/s/aGlnaGxpZ2h0OjE3OTYyNzUxNzczNzYxNjg4?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY= thats the fight of 3 rounds also the smaller one got completely demolished lol
  2. Let me start by saying this MOC was not created from scratch, it was built on top of my freely available MOC "Power Functions Chassis", which is a budget RC chassis using just 86 parts. I wanted to show that even very simple chassis can be used to build interesting and detailed MOCs. When i started building i wasn't sure what type of car i would be creating, just something i haven't done before, so things started leaning towards some kind of muscle car; since i'm not an expert at this matter, i had to do some research and find what features distinguish this specific kind of car. This MOC is extremely compact and remote controlled using standard Power Functions components, this means the space left for details is very limited, anyway, i was able to implement a select number of details which are recognizable features of a muscle car, hopefully they are enough to make the MOC look like a muscle car: - A large body; the car is wide enough i think, but it should have been longer i guess (this may be a limitation from using the chassis as a starting point). - Hood scoop; the name says it all. - Side pipes; not all muscle cars have them, but this one was easy to add, so the exhaust is represented through the use of side pipes. - Fastback design; once again, not all muscle cars have it, but was very convenient to implement (to hide the battery pack), so here it is. Other trivial details include the driver and passanger seats, steering wheel, side mirrors, front grill, headlights, tail lights, front and rear bumpers. Since it is an RC vehicle, the only functions it has are the motorized driving and steering. It can be turned on or off from below through the use of a liftarm connected to the battery pack. If you check the chassis page this MOC was built upon, you'll notice the steering is powered by a servo motor controlling a rack; and a single PF l-motor is driving the rear wheels with a 1:1 ratio and no differential; for this MOC, i modified this section, making the l-motor drive just one rear wheel (to facilitate the steering) with a gear ratio of 1:1.67, which makes it really fast, but can only be played with on smooth floor and no slopes. Race version: The fact of having no differential and just one of the rear wheels pushing the car may put some people off, because of that i created a "Race" version of this MOC, which features a rear differential powering both wheels of course, as such, the gear ratio also changed to 1.4:1, lowering its speed, but increasing the torque, so this version can take on slopes, it also has a different color scheme and slightly different aesthetics. For anyone interested, the building instructions are available on rebrickable: the original version has 435 pieces spread over 63 steps, and the race version has 441 pieces spread over 62 steps, so you will be connecting an average of 7 pieces per step on either version. What does the community think of this MOC?
  3. Gabor

    [MOC] RC Balaton Ferry

    I´m happy to present you my newest model, a not exact copy of the ferries on lake Balaton in Hungary. Hope you like it! As I was a small kid we often spent our summer near Balaton. If someone is younger than 6 and lives normally in a small village, it is really impressive to see cars which drive onto a ship and after that they come down on the other side. That´s why it was always a highlight for me to visit and sometimes travel by this ferry. Still nowadays if I´m there I wait the ferry once coming and going away. It´s still the same ferry as 25 years ago, I still find it really cool and it brings back the old memories. It took 9 months from the idea to the final MOC. The building process included some really cool challenges and was one of the most exciting developing projects in my entire MOC-life. The idea was to build a remote controlled ferry which can swim and drive on real water, can catch the coast reliably and my older tiny RC models (Milka truck and Flixbus) have to be able to drive up and down. The last requirement was to make it possible to show the whole setup on exhibitions. At first I searched on the internet for the biggest one-piece plastic box and ordered one of them. It was difficult because most of the big boxes has small bottom wholes to let water out. I needed exactly the opposite of it. Keeping water in the box. The measures of the box decided the measures of the model. On the beginning I tried to experiment with some LEGO boat hulls. The facts that these hulls are not completely closed and the ship is without vehicles already very heavy brought me to the solution to use empty bottles. They are the most reliable things to keep air in and protect the electric parts, like Sbrick from the water. Of course you can say I could put everything to a higher position, not integrated into the deck. But no, if everything would be in the building, everything would be on one side and the ferry would be completely unbalanced. On this side everything would be under water. What I could do was to integrate the motors on the other side into the deck. It was also not enough. I needed counterweights. At first some LEGO keels, but they were not heavy enough (they contain air, too :/). So at the end I used simply some pieces of steel. The real ferry has Voith Schneider propellers. We know that it´s possible to recreate it with LEGO bricks, but not at this small size. And he depth of the box is only 15 cm. That level of reality was also not the goal of the project. The draught of the loaded ferry had to be less than 15 cm, so I decided to use 4 propellers. Of course the available propellers of LEGO are like disasters, if we examine their functionality. If they are not, they are too big. So I built my own version out of Technic pieces. The propulsion uses two channels of the Sbrick, one for each side. You can turn with the ferry that way. I thought you don’t need this feature in this thin box, which is only 10 cm wider, than the ferry. But I was not right. You really need to do turning maneuvers to keep the ferry parallel with the walls. And yes, I hope I will have the chance to drive the ferry in a bigger pool in the future! Next challenge was to catch the coast stable enough for the buses and trucks. Maybe I said earlier that the ferry is everything else than horizontal. The counterweights are good, but not good enough. The proportion of the weights of the vehicles and the real ferry are also different than at the LEGO word. So the LEGO ferry has extremely strong reactions, if the vehicles come. The real ferry has also water tanks to balance itself. The LEGO ferry doesn´t have such a help. So I decided to build the ramp so that it can take part in bringing the ferry into a better position at least near the coast. There is a hook on the ramp (see in the video). It catches the panels of the coast and don´t let the ferry go away. After that it goes down a bit more and forces the whole ferry to raise itself a bit. The coast is horizontal, so this force brings the ferry also closer to the right horizontal position. That is nice, but as the vehicles arrive, it changes. That´s why I had to develop a correct order, position and driving path for the vehicles, too. These small vehicles are not off-roaders. If you can´t follow the instructions, the vehicles stuck on the ramp. But if you do everything well, it works smooth! The most difficult one of the nonfunctional problems was to create the meeting of the deck and the curved walls without gaps. I used for it 1x2x2 panels. The deck goes actually into the wall (under the top of the panels). But the upper end of these panels is not equal high with a whole number of plates, so I had to sink the wall on the sides with a half plate. I did it by using different wholes on the Technic frame, as for the deck. 1 Technic whole is 2,5 plates, so using neighboring wholes gives us the 0,5 plate difference. The ferry had its first appearance on Bricks4Family 2021. It worked surprisingly well during the weekend. After the box was completely horizontal and the exact level of the water was also found. By catching the coast the visitors often thought, it´s enough to turn off the propellers and open the ramp. What they (and I on the beginning) didn´t realise was the fact that if the ferry drives, the water goes in the other direction under it. If the propellers stop, the water brings the ferry slowly back. One method is the perfect timing with opening the ramp. Other method is to keep the propellers on and opening the ramp at the same time. After Bricks4Family I made a few very small changes on the ferry, so on the second exhibition (Ilmbricks 2021) worked everything even better. I put for example a door on the side, so it was possible to switch on and off the battery box, without removing the captain´s deck, the life boat and the whole roof. The deck has also 4 invisible, but removable panels. If they are removed, I can hold the ferry by holding the really strong Technic frame. Now there are small Technic bricks in them. It became much easier to remove the panels with the help of a small bar or an axle. If you really read all of these, a huge thank you for it! Hope you liked the ferry! You can find the pictures in high res in my Photostream! PS.: The next exhibition where I plan to show the ferry is Bricks am Meer 2022 in Bad Zwischenahn, Germany. Hope we can meet there!
  4. Hi guys Recently, I finished another model. It is a tractor unit inspired by Scania S-Series trucks. It has 6x4 drive and suspended axles. The front axle is suspended with normal LEGO hard shock absorbers. The rear axles have rubber suspension which imitates air-suspension as used in real trucks. The suspension at the rear axles is a bit hard but chassis is in return flat. The fifth wheel as a self-locking mechanism so that you can couple a trailer easily. To open the fifth wheel a small linear actuator is used. For steering a PU L motor sits directly on the front axle. For propulsion I used two PU XL motors. But check the pictures and video: Instruction at Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-86508/FT-creations/6x4-tractor-unit-inspired-by-scania/#details
  5. I made the 2021 LEGO 76240 Batman Tumbler drive (again) and upgraded the looks to be more real. full remote controlled motorization (drive and steer) independend suspension (front: moving liftarms!) moving front armour plates as in movie retractable roof complete do-over of side armor plates: finaly polygons very close to the movie (not flat as LEGO did it) front gunner seat "hydraulics" finally as in movie winglets fixed on both ends now (no loose parts as from LEGO) Mind the Gap - closed that gap between the rear tires (i think in danish LEGO rhymes on lazy ;) Instructions on rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-95123 I already did this with the 2014 version. Actually it was my first LEGO set in years. But I was never really happy with this. There were still too many flaws (as with the 2021 version) This time i wanted it to look more close to the original, finally. So I upgraded the armour and some other details a bit, to fix LEGO's little flaws. This is the LEGO Tumbler Batmobile, I always wanted.
  6. Hello and thank you for checking out my MOC, much appreciated. I call it "Red Arrow" due to its front design and color. This was one of the rare occasions in which i started building without knowing what i wanted to make. I was just doing experiments, trying developing a front section with steering and independent suspension using only common liftarms, connectors, axles and pins. After all, not everyone has those fancy, specific pieces for that purpose, so, yeah, why not?... I was indeed able to create it and that was the starting point, seemed appropriate for an off roader, so i kept going in that direction; only later on when i already had the chassis assembled, did i decided it was going to be an SUV. Now let's talk about the vehicle itself. It is 35 studs long, 20 studs wide, and 14 studs tall, somewhat small. At this scale, the smaller off road tires looked better, so i went with those. Being an SUV, it needed to have good ground clearance and it should at least be RWD, both requirements were met. I don't usually include a differential on off road RC vehicles due to the high probability of them becoming stuck, but i added one on this MOC, it just seemed right, and the front suspension (without shock absorbers) is so responsive it will help the SUV maintain ground contact for sure. One L-motor is used to drive the rear wheels, the ratio between the motor and the wheels is 1.167:1, so it is slightly biased towards torque. Another L-motor is controlling the steering, which returns to center automatically by using a rubber band driven mechanism. The IR receiver is occupying the driver's cabin and the standard Power Functions battery pack is hidden inside the large trunk. To turn the SUV on or off, you just need to push or pull the ladder in the back respectively. For me, the most interesting aspect about this MOC is definitively the steering with a decent turn radius and the independent suspension with long travel capabilities. They work flawlessly, so well i actually had to limit both the suspension travel and steering turning radius for this MOC to function properly. The building instructions point out the limiters, so you can choose not to include them if using this for your own MOCs. As usual, parts list and building instructions are available at Belle-Ve Bricks
  7. This is an alternate build of the Lego Set 42100, Liebherr 9800. Parts list used in the MOC is listed so you can opt to just buy the required parts instead of buying set 42100.Motorized features include: Tank drive for both tracks Arms upward/downward movements Head turn Head tilt Body tilt Manual play features include: Upper and lower eye flaps can be moved to show facial expressions. Finger movements. Limited manual arm movements Here's a link to the YouTube video to showcase its movements: RJ's Johnny 5 YouTube Video If anybody is interested, building instructions are available at Rebrickable.
  8. Johnny 5 needs your support to become an OFFICIAL JOHNNY 5 LEGO SET. Click the link below to support and feel free to share. - Link Removed - Who is Johnny 5? Hello, Bozos! Those who don’t know him, Johnny 5, also known as “S-A-I-N-T Prototype Number 5” or Number 5 for short, is a very lively and inquisitive military robot prototype who’s perpetually hungry for more “input”. He is the star of the 1980’s movies Short Circuit and Short Circuit 2 and a TV special called Hot Cars. He became sentient when he was luckily struck by lightning during a combat demonstration. Although he is designed to serve the military as a robot prototype, he has an adorable child-like behaviour and has a great respect for life. He is a peace-loving robot and refuses to use his military capabilities to harm others. Despite being very intelligent and inventive, his naivety and trusting nature has been taken advantaged of on several occasions. Why Make a Johnny 5 Lego Set? In Short Circuit 2, Johnny 5 set up a new business with his old friend Ben Jahrvi that builds and sells toy robots made in Johnny 5's likeness. This little robot never made it into actual production after the film. Johnny 5’s popularity and the unavailability of access to these cute little Johnny 5 robots made people clamour for this toy. To date anyone can google sites for 3D printing Johnny 5 robots and websites dedicated to producing both life-like and miniature Johnny 5’s. Johnny 5 is one of the iconic fictional robots in cinema to date. He’s part of every child who’s lived through the 80’s like me who are now AFOLs and longed for the Johnny 5 toy that never came out. Design This model is fully motorised using Powered Up motors and hub and controlled through a mobile device using the Powered UP App. It uses Technic parts to ensure stability of the structure, and System parts to capture the look and form of Johnny 5. The following are the playable features of the model: Movement – This model can move around on tank tracks and uses skid steer to change directions. Body – Johnny 5’s body can tilt using a Powered Up L motor and controlled using a mobile. Arms – Arms can be raised and lowered individually using the Powered Up App. The fingers can be adjusted manually as well as the elbows. Head – The head can be tilted and turned using the Powered Up App. Eyebrows – Eyebrows can be manually adjusted to suit the desired facial expression. Laser – The laser at the back can be raised and lowered using the Powered Up App. Total Pieces: 2,711 Dimensions: Studs: W 68.4 x L 36.1 x H 73.5 Inch: W 21.5 x L 11.4 x H 23.2 cm: W 54.7 x L 28.9 x H 58.8 Weight: 99.8 ounces or 2.83 kg
  9. A compact sequential heavy-duty 4 speed remote controlled AWD gearbox Each gear of this remote controlled gearbox approximately doubles the speed of the previous. The output shaft contains an integrated lockable differential for AWD. See the video for a WORKING DEMO | FREE INSTRUCTIONS below. GEAR RATIOS 1st 6:1 2nd 3.3:1 3rd 1.8:1 4th 1:1 FEATURES compact remote controllable sequential gearbox 4 transmission speeds evenly distributed gear ratios differential output (AWD) differential lock single rotary catch many mounting points no half studs INSTRUCTIONS [PDF] https://bricksafe.com/files/hdegroot/remote-controlled-4-speed-awd-gearbox---with-perfect-gear-ratios/remote-controlled-4speed-awd-gearbox-with-differential-lock.pdf [3D MODEL] https://bricksafe.com/files/hdegroot/remote-controlled-4-speed-awd-gearbox---with-perfect-gear-ratios/remote-controlled-4speed-awd-gearbox-with-differential-lock.io REBRICKABLE: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-83457/hdegroot/remote-controlled-4-speed-awd-gearbox-with-perfect-gear-ratios BRICKLINK: https://www.bricklink.com/v3/studio/design.page?idModel=244834
  10. Hey folks, another Motorization: all Functions of the 1989 Batmobile (LEGO 76139) RC controlled - yep the Batman again... Without sacrificing any of the nice details: Cockpit is still there, steering wheel works, just all motor driven and I motorized the guns and the roof and even made a tailored sbrick profile. Building instructions: Motorized LEGO 1989 Batmobile on rebrickable Driven by 2 LEGO Power Functions L-Motors (1:1 transmission) steered by a LEGO Power Functions Servo Motor guns engaged/disengaged by Motor roof opened/closed by Motor special Sbrick profile with programmig and grafics included a lot of space for up to 2 battery boxes/control hubs easily reachable under the trunk hatch (details on my rebrickable MOC page) Watch a Review of my motorized 1989 Batmobile on youtube: The Batmobile from Tim Burton's Batman 1989 with Michael Keaton is definitely one of the coolest, it's not as funky as the 1960s TV version and not as tank as the Nolan version but in my opinion it's simply a beaute! The 1989 Batmobile is using over 3,300 pieces, and over 60cm long. I added a few hundred bricks, mainly LEGO Technic and reused some others. So I ended up with over 3500 parts and (batteries included) almost 3.5 kg. That's heavy! So I needed a powerfull drive. I was thinking about the buggy motors but these are large and I wanted to put the batteries into the trunk. So i went for a pair of LEGO Power Functions L-Motors. These are some of the strongest LEGO motors and very small and efficient for their power and speed. The 1989 Batmobile is sleak and lies very deep on the road so it is geometrically impossible to move up any small hills (or even carpets). It will get stuck with its floor height of less then a brick. So it will only drive on a flat surface anyway. So it can be build for speed instead of torque power which the 1:1 transmission of the two L-Motors will do: It's a speed build, literally. One reason to put the batteries into the trunk was, to reach it easily for changing/recharging or simply switching on. Another reason was, to not put them into the beautifull cockpit with its nice self opening windshield - self opening? Yes, now it is motor driven ofcourse. And you hardly see the mechanics on the floor. Okay, the Batman minifigure included is way too small for the car but I found a Batman LEGO LED light, that fits into the car. Just be carefull when closing the cockpit to not get stuck. Slide-open is no problem. The car’s turbine exhaust by the way does not drive the machine guns anymore (it does in the original) because now a motor engages them. So I could make the jet exhaust it look like a real jet engine - the only exterior I changed. To make the two machine guns hidden, under the hood pop up, just press a button now. The Batmobile comes with nice little Bat emblems printed on the wheel rim - try not to lose them while driving, they are rare parts. The set of specially designed tyres for the front wheels is steered in a very specific geometry. I took care to keep that working the exact same way because it works very well for steering. The Build was complicated, took me weeks to get it right. I didnt want to change the exterior and as few as possible from the cockpit. You shouldnt see the opening mechanics. And I wanted to have all the features working, even the steering wheel (though steering is handled by a servo motor now) Every time I thought I got it, something else made problems, untill finally it all worked out. You can skip the trial and error (and breaking old LEGO gears) part: I made instructions and made them easily readable, so you can have it speed build in no time. I believe everyone should be able to build a LEGO set and try to make my instructions like that. Now it's hard to say, which one is the best batmobile motorization I ever made: The Lego 76139 1989 UCS Batmobile has more functions: motor driven MGs and a motor driven roof, the remote controlled motorized Lego 76023 UCS Tumbler I modded however has a full steerable front suspension for the independen wheels. my special Sbrick profile with some automated scripts is included I even made a cable layout for the power functions cables and extentions if you ended down here you may also be interested in or
  11. Hi everyone! I´m happy that I can present my newest creation! It´s the next piece of my minifig scaled RC collection. This time I decided to build a Flixbus. After Flixbus bought the rivalry Eurolines, it became maybe the cheapest way for poor students from Hungary (or not only from Hungary) to travel across Europe. At least for me it was the perfect method at that time! Hope you like it! Unfortunately the last time I travelled somewhere by a Flixbus was in August 2019. But hopefully it will change in the near future! Flixbus came often in the middle of the night, just as the Knight Bus did in Harry Potter. That´s why it stands on the destination screen Before you start reading about the boring technical facts and irritating things during the building period, please watch the video! It took approx 4 months long to build the bus. It´s not the first tiny RC I build. Despite of it I can´t say it didn´t challenge me. Yes, I´m speaking about the lettering and arrows on the sides. Maybe you still remember of the Milka Truck. That lettering has only vertical or horizontal building techniques. That´s why it was possible to do the lettering on each side only 1 stud deep. It was important, because it allowed to put the battery box (the biggest and most inflexible element) between the two walls and staying with the width in 6 studs at the same time. But “FLIXBUS” is more difficult. It is also not always possible to have stud connections (for example letter X, or the diagonal arrows). In this case the letters have to have inside some bigger parts on them, which simply doesn’t allow them to fall out. It means it stays only a two-stud wide space in the middle. That’s enough for the technic chassis, but not for the batteries. And also not for the motors… So only the half of the lengths stayed for the functional parts. For the steering and propulsion I stole the method from the Milka truck (with vertical motors), where they´ve already proven, that they work really well. The only possible (long enough) space for the battery box was at the back. Fortunately right above the driven wheels. They need the weight on them to increase the friction between the tires and the street. Another positive feature is, that the Sbrick is small enough to be above the letters, so I didn´t have to make the whole bus longer. Another part of the challenge was to create the diagonal white lines on the front. There was almost nothing inside, which they could be attached to. The reason is, that the moving parts of the steering are there, so it´s simply impossible to put there any other parts without disablement of the steering. Other reason is, that the upside-down parts of the front have already used the space there. At the end I decided to use the rubber bands, without being irritated by the fact, that it´s possible to see them outside, too. The bus has three axles. The third one is again an axle with some kind of fake suspension. It is just hanging there and doesn´t hold anything, so in theory it can never happen, that the driven wheels leave the ground. Please notice the detail that there are brackets instead of plates on the top of the third mudguards. It creates a bit bigger space in the mudguard for the wheels with the fake suspension. It means, that the bus can win against bigger obstructions. All in all I really enjoyed working on the bus. Hope you like the result, too! Thanks for watching and reading! Feel free to visit my Photostream on Flickr, to see some of my other creations: https://www.flickr.com/photos/gabor_horvath/
  12. Hello everyone and welcome to another MOC release. First, i need to say this MOC was not designed from scratch, it is a modification of my previous original MOC, the "Sand Cruiser", which was a C-Model for the set 42095, but i saw it had potential and decided to expand on its design using extra parts. Since this MOC is based upon another one, it has some weird or uncommon building choices and inherited all features from the original MOC: - Return to center steering using one l-motor and a rubber band mechanism; - Another l-motor powering one of the rear wheels. It's not a technical prowess, but that wasn't also the objective: this MOC is easy and quick to build, doesn't require too many or rare parts, it's light and sturdy enough for a child to handle it, ideal to do some races around the house. Funny enough, although i made this for my son, it is actually my wife who is picking it up all the time, go figure XD If you like my creations don't forget to show your support by following me here, or also my page on Facebook where i always share first hand when a new MOC is coming out. Hope you have fun playing with this one. For anyone interested, building instructions are available on Belle-Ve Bricks Hope you like it.
  13. Hello everyone. I just want to share a MOC i've made recently, it is a c-model of the set 42095 "Remote-Controlled Stunt Racer", so it was designed using only available parts on that set. It is quite a departure from the original, no one would think it was possible to build such a racer with this set. It uses a single l-motor to power one of the rear wheels and the other l-motor is dedicated to steering, which returns to center automatically by using a rubber band. The only limitation are the "tracked wheels", since there is no rubber, they don't have traction on smooth surfaces, this vehicle can only run on rough terrain like dirt, sand and snow, so it is basically an off-road racer. I tried to add as many details as possible given the available parts. The battery pack button is easily accessible, the IR receiver is on top to get the cleanest signal possible and the cabin is used for cable management, giving it a cleaner look. Building instructions are available at Belle-Ve Bricks For anyone who decide to build it, the most obvious modifications you can do is to replace the "tracked wheels" by normal off-road tires; or to apply rubber studs. Everyone feel free to share your opinions.
  14. Gabor

    [MOC] RC Scania Milka Truck

    Hello everyone! I´m really happy to present you my next MOC, the Milka truck, which is my 6th remote controlled vehicle at minifig scale! I have built it between December 2018 and March 2019. I have already shown it on two Lego events in Germany, there is an article about it on Zusammengebaut and there is a video on Youtube, in which I am interviewed. It is in German, so if you understand it, it is worth to watch it! Unfortunately I have found only now the time to make some pictures and an own video: The video is a new record from me. It contains the most visual effects among my other videos. I was very happy during the making of it, because last time I have made only rarely videos. It was nice to spend a time again with the camera. It took a little bit longer, as I planned. Because of the complexity I had to record some parts not only once and it was very time consuming to create some scenes on the computer. I´m really proud of the result, hope you will like it, too. Till now it is the most simple and most difficult tiny RC from me at the same time. Simple, because the technic costruction inside is very compact. Difficult, because the modelling of the Scania front and the letters of the word “Milka” meant a really big challenge for me. Now you can find the electric parts just simply near each other in the truck, and the chassis is under the electric parts. It is only 3 studs high. Earlier in the same vehicles you could find 3 pairs of gears, which brought the power from the motor to the wheels. Now it is only 2 pairs. The servo motor for the steering is exactly there, where we need to have it. It can steers the wheels directly, without any long and big construction. The original plane was that I put the receiver or the battery box in the trailer, but finally I found a place for all the parts in the truck. For the chassis I have used a lot of half liftarms and small pieces of rigid hoses. They are very good here, because I can cut them in for example 1 or 1,5 stud long pieces, too. In the truck the battery box is exactly over the driven wheels, so the truck can go very reliable on terrains, which are unfriendly. I mean, it can go up to the pedestrian area in a Lego City and it can destroy everything. The whole truck contains approx. 1020 parts. Most of the bricks are in the body. You can read the world “Milka” on the sides four times, but all the four sides are different. It is changing, how I could fit the side panels, what kind of other parts they have to hold, or how many place I had in the truck near the motors or the other things. During the designing of the cabin, I was afraid, that it will be ugly with the big white panel on the top, but finally I think, it´s ok. If you would like to see and try the truck in real life, visit the Bricky Way 2020 Lego exhibition in Györ, Hungary. It´s not far from Vienna. 7-8 March, 2020! Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/brickyway These are the infos, which I wanted to share you about my newest creation. Hope you like it! :)
  15. Finished MOC Do you remember my Reform Metrac H7X ? Reform also produces the Muli: As the project of my Citröen DS doesn’t really progresses, I do this project in WIP, to compensate. ^^ The functions will be close to the Metrac ones: 4WD with a 4 cylinders fake engine Steering with 3 modes Front and rear PTOs And I add: A pneumatic pump to add pneumatic tools Central joint (it’s only the front axle on the Metrac) Openable cab with a lever and a pump actionning a pneumatic cylinder. The best function! But this MOC will not be manual, because there is not so much room in the chassis. (I think it’s possible, but the playability will be extremely bad) So it will be remote controlled, using the BuWizz. So: Driving by 1 XL by axle Steering: 1 servo by axle. To have the 3 steering modes: a M motors controls a PFs switch -> it changes the sens of rotation of the rear servo, or it stops it. The pneumatic pump is powered by a M motor That was the start: And now I’m here: On these two pictures, you can see the rear PTO. On this side, the pneumatic pump: And here is the mecanism which allows the possibility to get 3 steering modes: The chassis is very, very compact. I think you can put an elephant on it, it will not move at all. For the tools, I think I’ll make a pneumatic arm (The pneumatic cylinders of the Mercedes truck would be very helpful, but I don’t have this set) And for the front I don’t know, so if you have ideas, tell me!
  16. What do you kindly think? (For God’s sake I don’t think there is an already created topic for this! If there is, I am so sorry, again ) Best Regards, Idris
  17. Hi everyone, Here's my modification of 8416, fully motorized and remote controlled. An additional function is the working & tilting steering wheel. The PF elements used are: - 1 M-motor for driving - 1 Servo motor for steering - 1 M-motor for lifting - 1 M-motor for tilting the lifting assembly. - 2 IR receivers - 1 Rechargeable battery box Rebrickable: http://rebrickable.com/mocs/Chilekesh/8416-fork-lift-motorized-rc Bricksafe: http://bricksafe.com/pages/Chilekesh/8416-motorized (*.lxf file can be downloaded here). Any suggestions on improvements are very welcome. Happy building!
  18. 8860 Studless remote controlled flashback. 5speed with reverse. I still need seats. This is my MOC, not the one by crowkillers. Instructions is being made and shall be uploaded to rebrickable
  19. Do you know Ken Block ? Here is his car... But in Lego ! The first objective was to build a RC model. I had the idea to inculde a caster angle. In testing the first prototype, I have seen it slipped in end of curve. So I had the idea to improve this prototype. Finally, I did the Ken Block's Ford Fiesta (from 2011, the most beautiful for me). I made custom stickers for a better look. It can really do drifts. The steering is done by a servomotor. The driving is done by 2 L motors with a 3:1 ratio. (24t/24t/8t) The working is similar to that of a karting. There is an important caster angle. When the car is turning, thr rear interior wheel is upped. Thus there is less grip at the rear axle, and the car drifts. The chassis is very rigid to have a good performance. The body is easily removable. The video : I have made building instructions (pictures) : https://www.dropbox.... Block.pdf?dl=0
  20. Finally i found some time to present you my latest MOC here. -> the 34,8 km/h black speed record racer It is the fastest 2-motor LEGO-rc-car until now (june 2017). While developing i was aiming for the highest speed you could reach with only 2 buggy-motors. To reach the goal, i had to: - reduce weight as much as anyhow possible - reduce the rolling resistance as much as possible (using only 3 as thin as possible wheels [only frontwheel could be better for indoor use: 2815 + 4185, but doesnt work outdoors]) - reduce axle-beam friction; just 3 studs in total (5 to protect the motor bearings) - find the best gearing - reduce air-resistance, and keep center of gravity as low as possible -> so here are the specs: Including panels in studs: length 55 , wide 21, height 12 (wheels) -> weigth: 650gChassis only (ready to race) : length 42 , wide 21, height 12 (wheels) -> weigth: ultralight 621g (without speed computer)Ground clearance: 0,5 studsGearing: 2:1 up at the fast output of the buggy-motorsTop speed: 34,8 km/h I know some of you dont trust the LEGO-speed-computer, so i also didnt at first. I startet measuring with gps with my heavy weighted mobile phone (more then 150g), but i didnt like the idea, to add 25% of weight to the model just for speed meassuring. Thats why i decided to buy a speed-computer (21g) [ could get one for 15€] just to try how accurate it is. And SURPRISE... it is really really accurate. I made a lot of comparing runs with GPS-phone (speedo app in 1 second mode) AND speed computer together attached to the car. The biggest difference i could ever meassure was 0,3km/h. You can see some pictures of this at the end of my video. (In my next video i will make some videos of this, not just pictures). Here are some pictures and the building instructions as Lego-digital-designer-file: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-8658/Summse/348-kmh-black-speed-record-breaker-worlds-fastest-remote-controlled-2-motor-lego-car/#comments I hope you like it :) TechnicSummse And finally here is the video :) -> Its the first video i ever made
  21. Hi, I'm looking for a reliable remote controllable 5+R sequential gearbox or ideas how to build one. If it would have a neutral as well it would be perfect. Please share your ideas and if you are aware of any kind of existing solution please share the link. Thanks, Zoltan
  22. Hi everyone, Here's my modification of Lego Technic 42024 Container Truck set. In addition to original functions (steering, outriggers and container lifting) it has: - 6x4 driving, - 90° tilting of the driver's cabin, - Working & tilting steering wheel, - Fake V8 engine (working), - Led lights, and is completely remote controlled. I used: - 1 L-motor for 6x4 driving - 1 Servo motor for steering - 1 M-motor for outriggers - 1 M-motor for lifting the container - 1 M-motor for tilting the cabin - 1 rechargeable battery box - 3 IR receivers - 1 set of led lights - 1 x 20 cm extension cable Bricksafe: http://bricksafe.com/pages/Chilekesh/42024-rc (*.lxf file can be found here). Rebrickable: http://rebrickable.com/mocs/Chilekesh/42024-container-truck-motorized-rc Any suggestions on improvements are very welcome. Cheers and happy building!
  23. Hi, Here's my modification of 42008 Service Truck set, fully motorized and remote controlled. I decided to keep the original functions (including pneumatics) exactly as they are while adding some extra features as well. The additional functions are driving, tilting of the driver's cabin, headlights, steering and working-tilting steering wheel. I tried my best to keep the original looks (with some visual improvements though) and made the structure as rigid as possible. The PF elements used are: - 1 L-motor for 8x4 driving (with single, shared differential) - 1 M-motor for steering - 1 M-motor for tilting the cabin - 1 M-motor for functions (included in the original set) - 4 M-motors for switches - 2 for pneumatic switches and 2 for mechanical switches - 4 IR receivers - 1 Rechargeable battery box - 1 Led light set, - 2 x 20 cm extension cables, one for the large motor and one for the battery box. Rebrickable: http://rebrickable.com/mocs/Chilekesh/42008-service-truck-full-rc Bricksafe: http://bricksafe.com/pages/Chilekesh/42008-rc (*.lxf file can be downloaded here) Any suggestions on improvements are very welcome. Cheers and happy building!
  24. Gabor

    [MOC] ICE 3

    Hi everyone! Fortunately I have the time to share here my newest creation! It's a train and it's the model of an ICE 3. It is 196 stud (157 cm) long and contains more than 3300 pieces, two IR receivers, two battery boxes and two train motors. Hope you like it! Oh, and another important information is, that it will be visible on Zusammengebaut 2016 in November and on Bricks am Meer in April 2017 in Germany!At first please watch these two videos! The first one shows a crash. The place, where I made the video, wasn't horizontal, and on the slope the train got a too high speed The records of the second one were made after I repaired the train. Well, I can say it is quite stable construction, despite the building techniques of the front. During the crash, only the boogies fell down! I'm really happy, that it is ready! It took me almost a year to build and become satisfied with the result. You may know, if someone build a train, the front is the most important thing. If it's not good, it's unnecessary to build the other sections. Everything started with an LDD model from a front-idea. I built something in the program, but I didn't like it. Later it came always into my mind and didn't allow me to be calm. So I started to develope the construction. Some month later it looked nice enough to order some parts and make it in real life. It contained so many interesting and strange techniques, that it was a real challenge to put the bricks together in the program, and with real bricks it was hard, too. And the real 3D model was ugly! But I said, that it has to be possible to find out something, which makes the model better. So I made some changes, and some more, and some more, and finally I liked it, and I thoght that I found the maximum! I stored the train (only the front section) and some other parts on the table in the middle of our house. And one night, I couldn't sleep. I woke up and went out to the table to do something. And I don't know why, but I put an element into the middle of the front. And I said 'wow'! It was perfect (for me of course, for you, I still don't know, but I will read the comments :) )! Some gaps disappeared, some sections got new positions. That element made so big changes on the overall look, that it was incredible! I felt high, but next day I was very sleepy. :D More pictures are available here: http://www.moc-pages.com/moc.php/433076 Thanks for watching!