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Found 11 results

  1. Hello everyone! I am glad to introduce you my new Lego MOC. It is called "Wilde Beast" and it is a 1:10 scale 4-wheel drive pickup truck. Technical characteristics 1:10 scale, 1.630 kg of total weight All wheel drive with 4 x Buwizz motors powering each wheel separately 2 x Geek servo for steering 3S Li-Po for power RC radio + Wixy units for control Full independent suspension with customizable hardness Custom wheel hubs with metal bearings RC wheels 90 mm (12 mm hexes) Metal U-joints in the transmission Robust 3D-printed steering bones Positive caster angle on all wheels Back to the beginning The main Idea behind the build was inspired by real e-cars. This cars has no gearbox, and each wheel gets connected to an e-motor independently. I tried to replicate this principle with Lego bricks and some custom parts. Bodywork This car has is a 1:10 scale pick-up truck body, Though it is a bit too short for a normal pickup. The body was made to be light and it is build on the chassis with a half-stud off-set in order to make the wheels seating symmetrically in wheel arches. (It was an obligatory decision due to the positive caster angle). There are many things that can be improved in the bodywork, but the current one perfectly satisfy my needs: it is light but make the car somewhat recognizable as a car. Hope to find white fenders to the front wheels some time! All the driving elements are located in the lower 5 studs of the car, so it is very stable. Suspension Wilde Beast has a full independent suspension with positive caster, which is very unusual for pickups. Moreover it was made to be customizable for different purposes. 9L shocks connected to the lower bones of the suspension play main role. At the same time upper bones of the suspension has their own set of shocks which can be customizable! Custom wheel hubs provide a natural King-Pin Inclination. Transmission "A good transmission - is no transmission"... This was my main philosophy for this car. The car has 4x Buwizz motors for propulsion, each motor is connected to one wheel of the car via half-axle (which uses metal U-joints). "Gear Ratio": Slow output of Buwizz motor -> 95 mm wheel. Such solution has its own positive and negative aspects. Positive: extremely low friction stiffness fast cornering (e-differentials) High maximal speed (over 13 km/h) Negative: Too big stress on motors (a smaller wheels would work well) Car does not go straight due to the difference in motors Let me explain the last "problem" in more details. The motors used in the car are "the" same from the view-point of a lego builder. Though they are "different" from the physical view point: each motor has individual characteristics, such as resistance, max power, max rotation speed and so on... This difference can not be seen in slow models (with max speed under 7 km/h) but they became critical at speeds over 10 km/h. As the result, car is always turning to one side and the driver need to correct the trajectory with a steering. There are only two ways to fix this problem: either to make a mechanical balancing via differentials, or to test each motor separately, and make individual power curve to it. A steering system with build-in hygroscope might also help. Controls The car is controlled via RC radio. The whole system is very similar to RC car setup. 3S Li-Po is used for power, it powers controllers for driving motors (called Wixy). The controllers provide the power to Buwizz motors by a signal of receiver. The model is steered with 2 x GeekSevo, though one would be enough here. To see a detailed description of the system, see here: Conclusion The Wilde Beast was a great research project for me. I tried to replicate a real e-car layout and my goal was achieved. Car is very fun to drive, but the driver needs to pay a careful attention to the road. The main problem of the car is the lack of the e-brains which would allow to calibrate the driving motors... P.S. I will definitely make another car with same chassis on smaller wheels to reduce the load on motors.
  2. The Mugbearer

    [MOC] Terran Marine (StarCraft)

    PSA: this model features a number of custom parts made with Stud.Io Part Designer. They do not exist in real life, and were made as a proof of concept for this particular model.
  3. Hello all! I don't know if this is in the right place or not, but it's quite an outlandish topic so I'm gonna assume this is right! The pneumatics system has gone through many part additions and changes over the decades. One component that never showed up is the hydraulic motor. Now, I'm aware that hydraulics and pneumatics are very different things, but the operational differences would fade in higher speed applications. What I mean by that is if there were to be a very high speed (due to the differences in how air and liquid drive these motors) gear type or axial piston type motor for example, and you coupled them to the existing planetary gear trains found inside most PF motors, the results in theory would be fairly decent torque and roughly normal lego motor speed inside of a roughly lego motor-sized housing. So why haven't they done this? And how come no one else has done it on the internet so far as I've seen? I know you can make rotary motion using pistons in an "engine" application, but that method has some obvious limitations barring it from actual use in an MOC usually due to size and/or switching inefficiency. Let me know what you all think of this as an idea, and fill me in if you know why this wouldn't work in practice if it doesn't!
  4. Good evening cognoscenti I am working on a (roughly) 1:12 MOC of a Massey Ferguson 6716S tractor, and need a bit of help with getting some custom / 3d printed rear wheels. For the front wheels I'm using the Claas / 6x6 tow truck tyres 23798 with light grey six spoke 15038 56mm D x 34mm wheels (although loader style solid wheels would be better if i can find some). For the rear i have bought some RC4WD ZT0129 2.2" mud basher tyres (, which fit pretty neatly (with a bit of fiddling) onto the Porsche rims 23800 62.3mm D x 42mm. However, I would really like to get some custom or 3d printed wheel loader style (ie solid dish) rims with an axle connection, six pin holes and a more neutral offset to match the real tractor for the reat tyres. Any recommendations on whether anyone has already made such a wheel, or who could make one? I have already had a look at the third party tyres for technic rims thread, but not found quite what i am after yet. It would be even better if i could also get solid dish loader style wheels in 56mm D x 34mm to go on the front. I think the simplest fix would be a combination of the Porsche rim and a solid dish. However, a neater solution would be to mimic the 'beadlock' arrangement that the RC models use, but make in lego technic - ie a main dish & rim, a slide on collar, and a locking rim (which pins the tyre in place against the slide on collar and the main rim) held in place with eg 6no 3/4 pins (RC beadlock uses tiny screws here). beadlok by hpil 102, on Flickr# Creating a beadlock type technic wheel would then open up a whole range of RC wheels fitting better onto lego (or lego compatible) rims... So, any suggestions of offers to create some 3d printed rims for me? hpil
  5. Okay, so if you have ever looked up "Custom LEGO pieces" you find some cool parts. I was wondering if anyone has tried making their own, and out of what material? Does PVC release bad chemicals? Was it hard or time consuming? And most importantly, what are your opinions on third party pieces like brickarms, brickforge, brickmania, Crazy bricks arms and cactuses, etcetera? I have not tried too many custom pieces so far. So, that being said, I am interested in your responses. I did another one, like this, so here is the link to the original: Thanks in advance, Legostarwars1425
  6. I was sure that I've already shared it on weekend, but seems that it was lost ... I've published a book with a complete set of table about the Austrian army during Napoleonic wars. Base for that were the decal set I started years ago on the base of Mosana's designs. They get a complete relaunch with all the necessary changes to be as historical accurate as possible representing the different Austrian Units. See here the decals used for the Austrian Landwehr and partly a s base also for other units: . The 2nd topic were all the custom hats and helmets for the Napoleonic times where the first item ever done in the 3d printing technology was started here after a longer discussion how the rare shakos can be recreated with other means. The 3rd part were all the renders I can do now with LDD, LDD2povray, stl2povray and povray. During Christmas I recoded a bigger part so that doing these tabels with figures in diferent positions can be done more easily. See one of the results here (Hungarian insurrectio troops): Finally I have added some textual clue mainly referencing some historical or military explanations (with references to the text in Wikipaedia) resulting now in the book published by .... Since a lot of topics and techniques created for this book were first discussed here I want to thank all the member which have contributed with their ideas ... Woody64
  7. Hello, I have created a better scale tire & rim for trucks and light industry vehicles with a proper rim offset. The proportions allow for dual tire mounting and single. Is there any intrest within the community to have something like this produced? (in low volumes) I would look forward to hearing any insight/ feedback - purists need not respond! :) The tire would be a flexible rubber like material, rim would be SLS printed or ABS.
  8. I've just finished the last of the ME Models track parts in LDraw: R40 + R56 + R72 + R88 + R104 by Duq, on Flickr The available parts are: 8x2 Connector (for curves) 8x3 Connector (for straights) 8L Straight rail 32L Straight rail R56 Curved rails (Inner & Outer) R72 Curved rails (Inner & Outer) R88 Curved rails (Inner & Outer) R104 Curved rails (Inner & Outer) I've also created 'shortcut' parts for complete sections of each of the curves as well as the two straights. All parts are available for download from Github. ME Models Half Length Track by Duq, on Flickr
  9. zephyr1934

    LDraw rods are now available

    As you likely know, I have been fabricating custom rods for lego steam locomotives. Now I have great news for the digitally inclined steam engine builders, I have just added LDraw files for most of the common custom rods listed in my store. Ronald 'Duq' Vallenduuk developed the LDraw part design and subparts for his own use (e.g., here) based on the physical rods. He has graciously allowed me to share these files. I've merely expanded his template to use my own naming scheme and include many of the rod designs I've fabricated. You can find examples of the physical rods here and the LDraw files here. I'm planning on adding less common rods soon and then eventually the valve gear bars. Make beautiful virtual models and be sure to visit Duq's Flickr page or Bricklink store.
  10. [full gallery] I have modified the locomotive from the Lone Ranger, Constitution Train Chase (Lego set 79111) to add working driver rods. I had to completely rework the pilot to make everything work, but I think the final design is pretty good. The new model is the same width as the original, one stud longer, and it has working rods. The mechanicals are packed in very efficiently. The front wheel just barely clears the cow catcher, the side rods just barely clear the crossheads, I came up with a clever bearing to fit over the moving pilot axle, etc.. With the moving rods I think this engine is shaping up to be pretty sharp. A larger tender would be nice, and one of these days I'll take a stab at that. The one tradeoff (and I'm not sure it is much of a tradeoff) is the fact that I had to convert it from a Ten Wheeler to a Mogul. Here's a shot of the modified engine on a curve I've prepared instructions for the modification and have already uploaded jpegs to brickshelf (I'm working on finding a good home for the .pdf version). There are two versions of the instructions: V1 is for building the modified model from scratch, V2 is for retrofitting the completed model after it has been built. To build this modified model you will need the parts that come with Lego set 79111 and the additional parts listed on the last two pages of the instructions. Note that this build requires 4 non-Lego pieces for the driver rods, available here. [full gallery]
  11. zephyr1934

    Custom 1xN ladders

    As I mentioned in my post about the GN S2 MOC, I have slipped one step further down the Lego purity slope and made my own ladders. (click on the image or here to see the full gallery) You can see examples of the short ladders clipped on at the front of the tender and the long ladders clipped on at the back of the tender. If you look closely at the ladders on the front of the tender, you will see that the surface is matte (they will not be mistaken for shiny bricks), but some of the lego bars have a similar matte surface. The spacing between rungs is similar to the lego bars, but I've made the holes square instead of rectangular. Probably not something a minifig would want to put their foot in. I think the dimensions look a lot better for my rolling stock and it is definitely a heck of a lot easier than trying to do a brick built version. This past week I've retrofitted one of my earliest MOCs with the new ladder- original in back and new in front. Click on the image to see more, including the smaller ladder on the other end of the car. I like the proportions a lot better. After doing this change, I see a lot of other tweaks that I will do to the boxcar, e.g., using grilled cheese bricks for the running boards leading to the ladder, removing the buffers You can see photos of all four sizes that I've fabricated so far here. And for those of you who want to be tempted down the purity slope, you can do so here. Enjoy!