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Found 637 results

  1. One of my favorite Eurobricks builds over the past couple of years was the Garbage Truck @steph77 completed in 2017. It's been a while since I have made a Garbage Truck, so after Thirdwigg Jr. Jr. (6) asked if I could make one, I jumped at the opportunity. I asked if he would be willing to test it as I built it. He said yes, so we were off. First, I wanted to make the truck fully manual with the following functions: Three axle, two steering Fake engine Removable garbage container Opening compactor Extractor plate Two stage compaction cycle Bin lift/tip Everything had to work smooth enough for a child to process the smallest of LEGO parts, particularly the 1x1 plate round. Nothing could get stuck in any movement, as this would frustrate a child (and me, frankly). Back in March, I finally figured out a little design that would be the first step of the compaction function. It wasn't perfect, but it was enough to proceed. The arch part at the bottom will be where the trash is dumped into the compactor. Back of the truck is to the right. I decided to model the truck after the Dennis Olympus garbage truck/bin lorry/refuse truck, in the colors represented by this stunning little build by Jonathan Elliot. So after another build session, I created this simple bodywork. I built a draft of the compactor, and put the two parts together and came up with this. Test one with Thirdwigg Jr. Jr. identified some problems with the compaction. Currently the bottom plate does not pull up far enough, so I'll need to turn the gear mechanism around. Here you can see how it processes from one gear on the side. It's not perfect yet, but I think I may be able to get there. See the video here. We'll see where this goes, but I like what I have so far. It's been almost a year since my last large project, the Ionos Sedan, so it's time for something bigger again. Questions, Comments, Laments, and Insults always welcome...
  2. With the gearbox-controlled mechanisms on my MCI D4500CT model proving to be impractical, I did not want to just abandon the gearbox design. Because of this, I decided to incorporate it into a different vehicle. I decided that a boom truck like the following would be god for a four-output distribution gearbox: I have not seen many boom trucks in this style done in LEGO Technic. I've seen plenty of mobile cranes, knuckle boom cranes, etc, but I figured this would make for a unique build, especially as I see plenty of these here in the US. The turntable for the crane is also mounted higher up (at the same height as the roof of the cab), so that'll provide more space for mechanisms. As of right now, the chassis consists of essentially everything to the rear of the wheelchair ramp module on my MCI D4500CT model. A difference is that both rear axles are driven, as opposed to one driven axle and one tag axle. The gearbox outputs will control the outriggers, boom rotation, boom elevation, and either boom extension or winch. There can only be two functions routed through a turntable in order to allow for unlimited rotation, so one of the boom functions will have to be manual. Because the suspension design is identical to that of my MCI D4500CT model, this model will also serve as a test bed for the drivetrain and suspension on my MCI D4500CT model. If everything works well here, I can be pretty confident using this suspension design. Let me know if you have any suggestions for me! Photos:
  3. Recently built 42005, so it inspired me to build some smaller monster truck. I don't want to call it smaller 42005, as then it should have been littlebit different. Here it is Fully compressed supension Somthing from build process Next to big brother
  4. Hello and welcome to the page! One of my favourite sets ever! It became a part of my collection in a veeery long and hard way several years ago. I was thinking to motorize it several times. Simply install several motors was easy deal, but I wanted a suspension also. This requires fully rebuild the chassis. So, initially I built a completely new scale RC chassis, then adapt it for 8285 outriggers, that adapt it for the 8285 crane then adapt it again for the 8285 cab. I tried to keep as much from original iconic 8285 as possible. None of the 8 PF motors is visible One BIG battery box + 2 sBricks OR two sbricks 2.0 can be used to manage al 8 channels. The only manual feature is a pneumatic polarity switcher, because it would be a 9th channel. Full suspension, rear based on 42043 Arocs set. Servo for steering 2 XL for drive M for outriggers L for pump M for winch L for crane raise L for boom extensionin Please enjoy! Truck now uses 6 soft shock abosorbers. To keep it higher it will be enough to replace first rear axle to yellow shock absorbers.
  5. Hi All, Although I have posted a few pictures previously, I wanted to make a proper writeup of my Trial Unimog alternate of the Zetros set (42129), because I think sharing the design process is valuable for people around here. Also, I am going to share my thoughts about the set itself as a parts pack. But for the curious ones, here's an action video of the end result and a short summary of the features: Features: - good actual outdoor performance :) - permanent AWD, no differentials - 2-speed gearbox, faster gearing than Zetros - relatively large increase in ground clearance - 4-link suspension on the back, large articulation, soft suspension - 3-link suspension with Panhard rod on the front, slightly larger and softer articulation than the Zetros - opening (and lockable) doors and trunk bed When building alternate models, I always try to build something different from the A model, both functionally and in its looks. So when considering what to build out of the Zetros, keeping the Mercedes brand but going for a different form factor, my first idea was a G-Wagon - quickly taken by Grohl himself. Then I though, let's fall back to a Jeep - also taken quickly by Tim.. Unimog was on my list of potential alternates, but I wasn't sure about it yet. But one thing was sure: I wanted to improve the actual off-road performance over the Zetros. So putting the form factor aside a bit, I started experimenting with chassis and suspension designs. One option I had in mind was to keep the live axle setup, but improve it to make it actually useful for off-roading: increase suspension travel, ground clearance and responsiveness. Furthermore, I wanted to see how lightweight the axles could be built, because the Zetros's axles are pretty bulky. I was okay with doing away with the diff-lock, since I wanted to use the M motor for a 2-speed gearbox anyway (just like others). During experimentation with axle designs and suspension travel, I have realized that the 3-link live axle setup of the Zetros is not only limited by the springs' short travel, but also by the 3rd link on the top. That link cannot rotate sideways on the chassis side and is mounted very high on the axles, and as the axle tilts, its top can move sideways significantly, and as the link cannot follow it sideways, it limits the axle's tilting movement; hence very limited articulation. The setup only works for a short range of movement as on the Zetros, which is limited anyway by the springs, but cannot work for a setup that aims for more articulation. One way out of this is to allow the 3rd link to rotate and follow the side movement of the tilting axle, but then the axle needs fixing sideways. There are two ways to fix that. Either a 4-link triangulated setup, or a 3-link setup with a Panhard rod. Although the Zetros does use a Panhard rod at the front, it is unrealistically mounted and too short, that would cause kind of bump-'steer' for larger axle articulation (not exactly bump steer, but more like shifting the whole axle sideways). So after taking the limited number of suspension parts into account (only 6 towball sockets left out of 10 since 4 must be used for mounting the front wheel hubs, and only 1 6L link available in the set), I opted for the following design: on the rear axle, I used 4 towball sockets for a 4-link triangulated setup with long links, allowing the upper links to rotate sideways and follow the movement of the axle. The springs are attached to the middle of the lower links. This allows for long upwards movement of the axle at the end of the links, and makes the suspension much softer even with the hard springs. Pretty solid and allows for large articulation, just what I wanted. Furthermore, the axle itself is quite slim and rigid, and has good ground clearance, especially in the middle where it's most needed (as proven by my off-road tests). The front axle was more challenging. First off, increasing the ground clearance is only possible with one trick: the towball socket liftarms must be built at an angle, going upwards in the middle, and that limits possibilities. Second, the steering motor and its mounting takes space on the axle, and is in the way for the suspension mounting points. I have experimented with two other options: steering through a driveshaft coming from the chassis, but the placement of the motor in the chassis was problematic do to space required by all other motors and the battery, along with the largely articulated suspension design; second I tried to put the steering motor above the front axle, actuating steering through a linkage system. Although, this worked quite well mechanically (verified with the Powered Up app), unfortunately, the Control+ app itself killed this direction: the app limits the steering motor angle to about a 25 degrees less than the calibrated range, which is normally 90 degrees or motor rotation, resulting in about 65 degrees in case of the Zetros (that's why it's steering is so bad by the way). Now in my alternative steering design, the max calibrated angle would have been 45 degrees, and the 25 degrees minus by the app resulted in about 20 degrees of movement, resulting in almost no actual steering at the axle. Pretty sad that you can build something mechanically sound and then not able to control it with the app :( So I fell back to mounting the motor on the axle, and used the remaining 2 towball sockets for two lower links, which again, I built longer to allow for a bit more articulation. Luckily, I was able to mount the motor in a way that it allowed to use the single 6L link as the 3rd link, allowing free sideways tilting movement of the axle, as it is attached to a towball pin on the chassis end as well. I also experimented with the spring mounting technique of the rear, but it was weak and wobbly on the front without the 4-link setup, so I went back to mounting the springs on the axle. However, I managed to move the springs closer to the center of the axle, resulting in both slightly larger articulation and softer suspension. Finally, the axle is fixed sideways by a long Panhard rod going from one end of the chassis to the other end of the axle, eliminating bump 'steer' quite well even at larger articulation. As a side note about parts, it would be really nice if the set had another 6L link somewhere, for example as a Panhard rod on the rear axle. It could be used to build another 4-link suspension to the front, and also as a steering link in an independent setup (which is problematic to build for other reasons as well). So after sorting out the two axles and the suspension, I though this could be used in a Unimog chassis. Though not too different in form from the Zetros, but at least it keeps the brand. Furthermore, I decided to make it different in its functions: the first step was focusing on a proper suspension. The second was the drivetrain. And that also caused some difficulties. Unimogs are short. You'd think that's not a big problem at this scale, as many RC Unimogs have been built before, but it is with the latest drivetrain parts. The new CV joint with a sliding axle hole is a whopping 8 studs long!! (Compare that to a 3L U-joint; sure, the CV joint has the axle built in on one side, but this construction limits builds quite a bit. Not sure why the new sliding variant needed to be 2 studs longer, I thought it would be just 1 longer, enough for the sliding, which is typically about half a stud, but 1 stud max). So two of those, plus, two non-sliding ones at 6 studs length, and your driveshaft is already 28 studs long. Add to that the amount of space required by the differentials (2 studs on each end until the axle center), and your axle distance cannot be less than 32 studs. Add one more to get a nice odd length middle section, and we are at 33 studs from axle to axle. It is quite long for a Unimog. (As a side note, I tried to split the driveshaft in two halves, shifted sideways in the opposite direction to let them overlap in length and hence make things shorter, but it did not work out due to the axle length limitation of the CV joint part and also space limitations from the motors). So because of this, and other considerations I decided to do away with the differentials altogether. It saves 2 studs in length. It allows for a slightly faster 12T / 20T gearing; the Zetros is just too slow. Furthermore, it allows for larger ground clearance, as the differential does not stick out from the axle. It even allows for a slimmer axle design, as there is more space in all directions, such as for mounting the steering motor. And last but not least: no differential - no need to lock them :) With unlocked differentials the off-road performance would be bad anyway. Once I settled for the length and the drivetrain, I needed to place the remaining motors and the gearbox. I was able to sandwich the gearbox between the drive motors, and put the gearbox's driveshaft motor on top, the flip-flop beams and the frames proved to be very useful for building a strong but lightweight chassis. The final challenge was the driveshaft from the gearbox motor. I am not sure why TLG used this motor here as it is super cumbersome to work with. It needs substantial down-gearing (and the right amount for your actual application, which is 180 degrees final turn for a gearbox, but 90 degrees for a diff-lock), a clutch mechanism for safety and physical end stops for calibration. These all take up space as they need to be routed somewhere. Things would have been much easier with another L motor.. (Maybe to make the set slightly cheaper? Or TLG is trying to get rid of these motors on stock? They don't seem to fit well into the PU system without positional control.) Anyway, finally the chassis of the Unimog was complete. I used the remaining CV joints to connect the drive to the spinning fan in the front :) The rest was just bodywork and placing that big hub somewhere. I opted for roughly the same position in the cab as the Zetros, but with the cables inside, to allow easy access to the batteries for replacement. For the design and styling, I took some inspiration from online sources like this one because of its color scheme, but I wanted to minimize the cab length as there weren't enough panels for a 4-door version. I built the cab with no opening hood to make it solid :) And also made the doors lockable to avoid them opening automatically when driving around.. Finally, the black panels were just the right size and amount to cleanly finish the bed, both the sides and the floor. The bed floor opens (but lockable) to see the gearbox, and to give room for accessing the batteries. I have also added fenders and the usual decoration like the rollbars, exhaust pipe, mirrors, ladders. Here are some renders of the whole build. As you can see, I did not use any green parts, as they would have only added clutter to the otherwise clean bodywork I think. Some more notes about the parts of the set apart from the ones mentioned above. The set has a good amount of paneling and beams and connectors, although the green parts are a bit less useful since they are limited in number and size. Another shortcoming of the set is the available gears. It has all sizes, but their number is lacking in some cases and hence high gearing ratios are hard to achieve. For example if you try to deviate from the default drivetrain, those gears will be missing for example for a simple down-gearing for the gearbox motor.. More images can be found on Bricksafe. Building instructions are available on Rebrickable. I did not know too much about Unimogs in the beginning, but during the research and designed process I actually came to like Unimogs quite a bit. I like that they are compact but seemingly efficient machines, and the trial versions actually look pretty cool. And I am actually quite happy with the end result. Let me know how you like it and your opinion on the set's parts! Cheers, Viktor
  6. It is been a while without building, so good for me whatever it ends... It will be a 10x6 truck with 3 steered axles, the last one is the rare one, I do not know if it will be motorized or not, pneumatic or not, I do not know much so I just keep building. I discarted using bigger wheels because it would be too large but who knows...
  7. R0Sch

    40586 - Moving Truck GWP

    According to Promobricks the rumored GWP matching this years Jazz Club modular building (10312) set will not be a pizza van but a furniture moving truck and included in the set some nice accessories: a brick-built handcart for transporting a piano, jukebox, painting of a saxophone and dressing table. A moving box labeled “To Jazz Club” is also included. The logos on the sides of the moving truck, the license plate and the lid of the moving box are stickers, so 6 in total, but the piano and jukebox have printed tiles too. The truck also has opening cabin and rear doors! Set number:40586 Name: Moving Truck Piece count: 301 Nr. of minifigures: 2 Release date: 21.02. till 03.03.2023 Availability: LEGO Price: free with purchase above 180 €/$ (not tied to 10312 Jazz Club purchase) Here is a quick and dirty build and rendering of the truck. It's dimensions are 5.6 x 15.7 x 9.1 cm (7.0 x 19.6 x 11.4 studs).
  8. I recreated set 40586 (Moving Truck GWP) in blue, and changed the wheels, rear-view mirrors, front bumper, and a few other things. You may be asking why I chose blue for the truck. The answer is simple: I had two blue wheel arches lying around unused, and this neatly solves that! The rear of the truck. The roof comes off and the ramp slides out. Also in this picture you can see the cabin door opens. The roof of the cab section also comes off to seat a driver at the wheel. Thoughts?
  9. I'm a huge fan of the olive green from 42110 and I've been thinking of how to best use the olive green elements from that set. My initial goal was to design a model with working V6, 4-speed sequential gearbox, and AWD. The project has evolved to include part time AWD, central and rear diff locks and an implementation of Toyota's Kinetic Dynamic Suspension System, which modulates anti-roll bar stiffness. I'm working on the second version now. NewUpdate 2/19/23: I've been spending a lot of time re-designing my 4Runner moc from the ground up. Work/school has kept me really busy but I've been able to make some progress here and there. My version 2 of the 4Runner has a number of improvements compared to the first version. Overall it is a much more sturdy and functional model compared to the previous design. Playability is way better and the roof feels very sturdy: New suspension is much much better than before. I plan to add pneumatics to front and read for shock absorption in addition to the coilovers that are already present: I'm lot lot happier with the rear axle now. I've finally made a rear axle that has 4 links in a way that I like. I will add the 5th link/panhard rod later. I still haven't found a way to add in the rear diff lock while also creating an axle that is satisfyingly durable with all 5 links. That is a major to-do right now... As a result of the new setup, suspension travel is much greater and satisfyingly responsive: The interior Is much more roomy/spacious now too. I will add seats at the end when I'm satisfied with all of the functions: Finally, I've looked at a lot of other builders including Kevin Moo for inspiration when designing non-right angles. I've used a lot of triangles here to get a design that is compact and strong at the same time: Remaining To-dos are here: Rear diff lock Panhard rod Controls for steering and gear selector Seats and interior Finish rest of bodywork Add functional door handles Add V6 engine I've also attempted to motorize the model a few months ago. While it was fun driving it around, there was a lot left to be desired mainly due to the 4-speed gearbox design. There was a lot of gear skipping around the central differential whenever the model drove over anything that required any torque. While this is not a priority yet, I'm stongly considering removing the current gearbox and replacing it with a more simple and sturdy design with a transfer case instead of a central differential. That being said, theres plenty of room inside the truck so I think motorizing it would be relatively straightforward if I try it. Old pics: The new chassis has vastly improved rigidity and implements the 4-speed gearbox with a much smaller footprint: Top: Side: Here is a shot of the first version model: The Chassis was originally inspired by filsawgood's Toyota JS as I used it as a test mule for the live axle design:, but it has since evolved
  10. Hello everyone, I have been in contact with a few fellow eurobrickers and some of them have wanted a truck topic where we can all share different designs for our trucks and trailers. These designs could also include maybe some clever and effecient suggestions to show others how you made your amazing MOC! All forms of trucks are accepted tow trucks to mighty expedition trucks! Post your truck, or gain inspiration from others! For starters I will share mine: A sporty flatbed truck!
  11. Hello everyone, this is the latest work from MTC: Benz-Unimog 4×4 Off-road RV Designed by Muen 1. Function Description ① XL×2:providing power ② Servo×1:steering ③ M×1:2-speed gearbox shift ④ M×3:3 differential locks for front, middle and rear ⑤ SBrick×2 ⑥ Small battery box ×1 ⑦Yellow hard spring ×8 2. Appearance "Modularity" is a design concept that runs through the design of the car from start to finish. From the exterior to the interior, I have modularized all the parts as much as possible, with the obvious benefit that it is very easy to assemble and disassemble, and no longer afraid of transportation. At the same time, each model is clearly positioned before it is designed, which determines the tendencies and trade-offs when designing. The positioning of this car is mainly to do my best to restore the appearance and rich interior of the real car, so this car uses technic parts to build the chassis, and particle parts to build the appearance and interior. The following are photos of the whole car's appearance, and according to the real car's beautiful pictures taken at the same angle, please enjoy. 3. Interior I always think that the interior of an RV is a very important part, so in the process of designing this car, it can be said that the design of the interior took up half of the focus and energy. Another important reason why I personally like RVs is the various storage spaces, which can be a storage space in places you don't expect, so I also built more storage spaces when designing the interior. The following is a detailed introduction to the interior of this car, I hope you can enjoy it. (1)Cab ① Seats The design of the seats uses #99563 to shape the unevenness of the surface, while the base under each seat consists of four #4532 for additional storage space. Behind the front seats are shelf baskets and in-car video for rear passengers to use and provide entertainment during the drive. ② Central Console I divided the center console into two parts, front and rear. For the front center console, there are several storage spaces with three drink holders. At the same time, there is a shift lever, handbrake and a number of function control buttons set up on the side near the main driver. And the side near the passenger side is the air conditioning vents. For the rear center console, a number of storage space and drink placement that must be the regular configuration, front and side air vents and air conditioning adjustment knob. There is a small clock in the middle for the rear passengers to see the time, but also equipped with a blue satellite phone, we all know that the wilderness places or satellite phone more reliable. Here are photos of the combination of the front and rear master consoles (2)Living area The living area is also designed with rich interiors and "modular". There are two main purposes, one is to facilitate the display of the interior, because my first off-road RV work "Conqueror F", in the process of display found that the interior can not be well displayed. the second is to allow the weight of the car to be reduced during the driving process. So the interior of the living area is very easy to remove as a whole. The interior of the rear compartment consists of 9 main parts, let me introduce them one by one below ① Kitchen Due to the limited space, the kitchen is all open, I personally divided it into 3 sections. First is the lower area, which is a variety of storage space for dishes, I also placed a garbage can, specifically for food waste. The second is the middle area, where the cooking is done, the left is the sink, the right is the stove, most RV's kitchen stove is covered, this is no exception. A variety of pots and pans as well as a wealth of spices hanging on the wall, and a range hood directly above the stove. Finally, there is the upper area with a blue microwave oven and two storage spaces. ②Bar I personally like the bar very much, so I also designed a bar in this RV, mainly for making various desserts and beverages during the rest of the day in the car. The lower half of the bar has 2 levels of storage space, mainly for cups and unopened drinks. The upper part is mainly for a small number of commonly used cups and 2 desserts that have just been made, and there is also a beverage machine with 4 different drinks. These 4 drinks are: orange - Fanta; red - Coke; green - Sprite; blue - Mizone. ③ Left side of the entrance door This module consists of three parts. The lower part is a fire extinguisher. In case there is a fire in the process of parking rest or entertainment outside the car, you can get the fire extinguisher nearby at the first time. In the middle is a white fridge, close to the kitchen and bar for easy cooking. The upper part is a small open storage space. ④ Right side of the entrance door This module is also composed of 3 parts, the lower part is a two-layer shoe rack, placed at the door, in and out of the door is convenient to change and put shoes. In the middle is a small storage space, which is mainly used to place umbrellas to prevent rain from touching the wetland board; There are also two hooks for hanging hats. The upper part is the switch box, the whole living area power switch, there is a specific instrument to show the real-time data of the living area electricity. ⑤ Sofa This car is equipped with two large electric sofa, placed opposite, sofa side armrest has adjustment knob and small display screen. Among them, the sofa near the side of the bed, the bottom is installed with a slide rail, moving the sofa, can enter the storage room under the bed. A sliding rail is installed at the bottom of the sofa to facilitate horizontal movement. ⑥ Table There is a table in the middle of the sofa. To expand the limited space, the table can be folded. After the table is folded, flowers can be placed on the table to beautify the interior environment. ⑦ Storage room The living area has 2 large storage units, mainly distributed under the bed. One is the common storage room, mainly placed washing machine, cleaning tools, repair tools and other common items; The other is a hidden storage unit behind the sofa, which can be accessed by moving the sofa and is used for infrequent items such as suitcases. ⑧ Toilet The toilet is equipped with a toilet that can also be used for bathing. There is a hot and cold water sign and a toiletries basket in the corner. ⑨ TV set The TV set is placed above the sofa and facing the bed, so that whether you rest on the sofa or in bed, you can watch TV programs and relax. Finally, a panoramic view of the living area! 4. Some Details (1)Where is the battery box hidden? (2)The living area tank is located below the rear door (3)Where is the spare oil drum hidden? (4)For parking rest and picnic outside the car, there is a foldable table on the back of the door of the living area, and it is equipped with a storage box (5)Because the car chassis is higher, so the left side of the staircase is designed with handrails, when entering the living area, convenient borrowing; There is a clock on the top of the handle, which is mainly convenient to check the time when taking a rest outside the car or having a picnic (6)The shoe rack is by the door (7)A fire extinguisher is placed in the back of the cab. (8)Skylights in the living area can be opened (9)It's 2023, car phone holder must have! Convenient map navigation! Finally! Hope you enjoy it! Thanks for browsing! Benz-Unimog 4×4 Off-road RV From MTC·By Muen·For Gap.Li
  12. Hello everyone, this is the latest work from MTC: Unimog 4×4 Off-road RV Designed by Muen Function Description: ① 2×XL: providing power ②1× servo: steering.×M: 2-speed gearbox shift. -3×M - 3 differential locks for front, middle and rear. -2×SBrick. -1×Small battery box. -8×Yellow hard springs.
  13. Hey everyone, for a couple of months I've been working on a lego technic camper module that fits on Lego 42129 easily! After a lot of designing, I have come up with a design. I've made a video for all to see and please let me know what you think of this model. This model doesn't affect the Zetros's ability to move in any way (however just to be safe please consider reinforcing the rear axle). It has the following features: Awning Interior with dedicated seating area, bedding and kitchen (kitchen has to be built with bricks haha) rear compartment storage along with a lock Openable windows for ventilation Flexible but sturdy structure for offroading openable door Additional step ladder that can be used to enter the unit Additional storage on the door side of the unit that has a separate compartment to the rear storage space for jerry cans Space for extra wheel
  14. Hi guys! At least I has finished my next MOC and want to introduced the finished model to all of you! Welcome my International Lonestar truck! It's dimensions are: - Lengh: 101 stud or 80 cm - Width: 31 studs or 25 cm without mirrors - High: 37 studs or 30 cm excluding antennas and exhaust pipes. It consists of more than 5000 Lego parts, including 9 motors. It has: - Great Charbel's 8 speed gearbox, modified by me to the 16 speed one by adding high/low gear to the main output. It has a special shifter. It's all RC. - Independant powerfull pneumatic brakes on each wheel. Inspired by Sheepo's Peterbilt. - Pneumatically controlled fifth wheel. - Independant suspencion on front and dependant one on the rear axles. - Suspended driver's and passenger's seats, doors with locks and shock absorbers. - Detalized interior. - Inline 6 cylinder engine like the real truck. Power functions is described at the picture below, I think this is more interesting than just to read. Also I include pneumatics sheme. Enjoy the pictures please, I hope some video will apear nowadays. Unfortunately, rear differentials can't cope with such a huge torgue and truck cant drive fast on the floor, sorry. Please visit my Bricksafe page for more photo. Building instructions are available here: VIDEO AVAILABLE NOW!!
  15. I present to your attention a model of one of the most recognizable trucks in the post-Soviet space. KAMAZ-5410 is a bolster-type tractor, mass-produced from 1976 until the 2000s. The three-axle truck, designed to work as part of a road train with a gross weight of up to 26 tons, was equipped with an eight-cylinder diesel engine with a volume of 10.9 liters and a power of 210 hp. It had a spring front and rear suspension. Now, directly to the model. The model is approximately made in 1:18 scale.It has a working suspension on all wheels: the front axle is attached to the frame with four trailing arms and 2 gray shock absorbers are used as a shock-absorbing element; the rear axles are equipped with balancers. The wheels consist of a native Lego disc and scale tires (outer diameter 60mm) from RC trucks. The model is driven by the XL motor of the Power Functions system. The motor is directly connected to the axles via 12:20 gears. The steering of the model is carried out using a servo motor of the same system. Almost the entire cockpit space is occupied by a small battery pack and a Sbrick pack.A container semi-trailer with a 20-foot container from Maersk was also made to the tractor. The semi-trailer is also equipped with all-wheel suspension and has manually lowered "legs". Thank you all for your attention! Subscribe on all platforms!
  16. Building B-models between major projects has become quite normal for me. Such a break and playing only with Technic bricks is a very good way to reset my mind 😊 This time it was the 42114 set and the Mining Dump Truck was created as an alternative model, for the excavator from the 42100 set. The plan to build this vehicle from the 42114 set appeared a few months ago. I put it off for later, because I thought I wouldn't have enough panels to build a nice dump box. Over the weekend, I sat down with bricks and in a few hours the first version of the tipper was created. I liked it so much that the final version differs from the prototype only with minor changes. The biggest difficulty in building this model was its size of frame. When planning, I insisted that the model must use the original app, because that could be easily configured and played with it immediately. The machine has double wheels on the rear axle, so the frame basically contains the engines, gearbox, and a rear axle. In addition, the set has only long actuators so placing them in the dumper was also not easy. At the end, everything was packed into a pretty nice model, which uses over 78% of the set elements. The tipper was supposed to look good with the R9800 excavator from the 42100 set. So I scaled the Liebherr T282 to 1:42 scale and built the model on it. The appearance of the dump truck is a combination of the previously mentioned Liebherr and CAT 793F. It is not an exact copy, but there are similarities. Building instructions: Check out photos and a short video presenting the model's functions: Video:
  17. Hello everyone! I present to your attention the MAN F200 truck model. The model is made in 1:20 scale. XL motor is used for movement, servo motor is used to turn the front wheels. The truck  has a working suspension on all wheels. The second axle of the truck can be lifted. Instagram: Youtube: Thank you for watching!
  18. bricksboy

    [MOC]#93 Ford F150 XL Pick-Up Truck

    LEGO MOC#93 Ford F150 XL Pick-Up Truck One of my viewers requested me to create a single-cab version F150. So I modified my previous model and added some improvements. I also made a stop-motion animation for this MOC: More MOC on my homepage:
  19. Hi, I present my newest creation – off-road truck KrAZ 255 version 2.0. This is successor of my first public MOC – KrAZ 255 to which free instruction are available here. The goal in version 2.0 was to improve basically every aspect of predecessor and to pay respect to this awesome off-road truck. And as usual, most of the features are based on truck Tayga 6455B available in game Snowrunner. This truck is also the next part of my Snowrunner series started with Chevrolet CK1500. On the video below you can check what details and functions I was able to put into this MOC and how KrAZ 255 v2.0 deals with off-road terrain and against obstacles. Extensive list of features, details and interesting facts about this creation you can find below the video. Enjoy! Instructions: LINK General details: scale: 1:23 dimensions LxWxH: 42,5x13x16,5cm weight: 1525g Features: 1. RC front axle steering (C+ L motor) positive caster (click) Ackermann geometry almost perfect pivot point (click) PF servo friendly - 180 degrees of movement for steering input 2. RC 6x6 drive (2 x C+ L motor) independent drive input for each front wheel (click) (for this idea I would like to thank @Fluwoeb and this topic, this is because of you! ) rear wheels driven by two independent inputs (one for 2 left wheels and one for 2 right wheels) (click) front wheels driven by one differential and rear wheels driven by second differential (click) both differentials coupled together to harness power of two C+ L motors both differentials coupled with lock mechanisms (click), controlled separately and manually from the cabin (click) and equipped with visual color indicator of diff lock on/off status located behind the cabin (click) power train equipped with new big CV joints - cardans and old CV joints limited in drive of the front axle and completely removed from drive of rear axles 3. RC winch with place to lock the hook (C+ L motor) 4. RC front and rear lights (Lego LEDs) 5. suspension for all 6 wheels (click) front wheels on live axle suspension with shock absorbers (click) and a big range of movement (click) rear wheels located on independently oscillating arms with rubber suppressors controlling the movement (click) rear suspension without shock absorbers - no side leaning and no bending under the load (click) 6. three studs ground clearance (click) 7. bottom of the truck armored with panels to secure crucial mechanisms and improve dealing with obstacles (click, click) 8. two hooks for connecting trailers, front and rear one, both equipped with lock/unlock mechanisms 9. openable doors, hood, tool box, first aid kit, sideboard bed with separately openable sides, each one with two locks 10. working V8 engine with fan which can be easily removed “for maintenance, repairment or for swap” located in detailed engine bay with a grill via which working engine can be watched (click) 11. detailed two seats cabin with openable and usable glove box (click) 12. working steering wheel 13. modular construction (axles, cabin, additions can be easily disconnected) 14. powered by Buwizz 3.0 but also prepared to be powered by standard C+ Hub (click) 15. prepared to be built also with PF motors and PF servo without significant changes and to be powered by Buwizz 2.0 (click) or even standard PF Battery box with IR receivers (click) 16. "disk brakes" in front (click) and rear wheels and many others small details (click, click, click) 17. equipped with many additions from the game Snowrunner, like bull guard, exterior roll cage, roof rack with fuel canisters and spare tire, double snorkel, sun protector (click) Interesting facts, designing decisions and details: driveshafts for front axle are connected in a way that the longer, more “smooth” CV joint part are connected closer to front axle, so lower to the ground, which corresponds with the idea to prepare bottom of the frame smooth and resistance to sticking out objects which can immobilize the truck (click) most of the motors are placed symmetrically at the center of the truck, which is good for weight distribution, but Buwizz unit is localized off centered, closer to the left side of vehicle. To balance that, motor from winch is placed also off centered, but closer to the right side of truck (click) all wheels can harness power from both C+ L motors, as they are coupled, but rear axles, which in general generate more load for motor, are connected closer to the right motor, that is why V8 engine is connected closer to the left motor, which is connected closer to front axle, as the front axle generates less load than rear ones (click) additionally output for V8 engine has the same speed as motor output - which is higher than rest of the drivetrain - for better visual and sound effect (click) there is a „biscuit connector” placed in rear wall of the cabin to increase ways of location and connection and types of power source which can be used to power up the truck (click) to avoid widening the whole truck, only hinges for sides of sideboard bed are located outside of the sideboard bed to allow opening sides to vertical position, which makes loading the cargo easier (click) positive caster present in front axle has (apart from being next feature adapted from real cars, apart from dealing with not very high tolerance of Lego parts, which causes negative caster and apart from being the force which steers front wheels strait when driving forward) a function of forcing front wheels to stay on axles when driving forward (I think this is the answer you were looking for @AutoBacon in this post ) and many more details you will discover, if you decide to build my truck I would also like to thank @nico71 for his great video series related to Western Star 6900 Twinsteer. It helped me to prepare more realistic grill, hood, roof elements and I believe overall better body of the KrAZ than in my first version of this truck. Thank you! Attention! Two C+ L motors with decreased speed 3 times, so with torque increased 3 times, generate a lot of force which needs to be handled by rather advanced drivetrain. That is why there is a risk for 12T gears to skip or even be destroyed if wheels come across too much resistance due to very rough terrain. Please keep this in mind and happy off-roading! Photos: (click) Here you can see the original KrAZ-255 (1211 parts, 991 grams), the new KrAZ-255 v2.0 in standard configuration (1632 parts, 1220 grams) and the fully equipped and ready for everything version of KrAZ-255 v2.0 (2091 parts, 1525 grams): Internals of the MOC, so drivetrain with differentials and diff locks connected with V8 engine, steering with working steering wheel and the winch I hope you like it, if you have some comments or question, please ask. I will happy to answer.
  20. Hi everyone Last weekend the Bricking Bavaria 2022 took place in Fürth, Germany. LEGO builders from around Europe travelled to Fürth to show their models. This year large cranes, lang heavy load transporters and even a technic locomotive in scale 1:17 were shown. It was really inspiring to meet other builders and learn about their building techniques, concepts and how their model work. For all people who had not the possibility to come to BB22 I cut a video with as many models in action as possible.
  21. Hello everyone, this is the latest work from MTC: MAN 8×8 Off-road RV Designed by Lance Deng Special Notes: The cab of this MOC is mainly based on the MOC-2918 MAN dump truck, based on which the design was further developed Here is the video, hope you can enjoy it! Function Description: -2x XL motors for driving-1x Servo motor for steering-2x Sbrick for Bluetooth Control-1×M motor for Pneumatic device -1×M motor for Motorcycle bracket lift -4× Pneumatic Cylinder 1 x 11 for roof lifting Next, we will also share with you another off-road RV, which is based on a Mercedes-Benz Unimog chassis.And we will share the details through a new topic.
  22. Hello everyone! I can't believe it's been 18 months since my last MOC actually finished. Well, here is the latest to join the party: Unimog U400... and no, it isn't a MOD of 8110, that one is two times bigger ? Sadly, I don't have the 8110 to shoot them side by side, but I will try to borrow it so that the "daddy&son" bonding moment can be documented Maybe I'll be good enough to even finish the video until New Year... but then again, probably not so soon, not to mention the instructions...? Unfortunately, I move in a much slower time dimension ? Features: TRUCK: • Should be around 1:16ish, scale, tires as a starting point, • Buwizz powered, • XL for drive + fake 4in line engine with fan, • servo for steering with working steering wheel, • M motor for front and rear PTO, • L motor for compressor, pneumatic attachment front and rear, • M motor for bed (activated with PF switch), on the same buwizz output as the compressor, bed can be raised in all three directions, • cabin tilt (manually, a bit poor - two orange tiles below direction light must be removed), • detailed cabin with opening doors, • live portal axles, front with “floating” differencial • 3 differentials • trailer hitch with additional PTO, CRANE • Crane outriggers and rotation over a PTO, • 3 manual pneumatic valves for operating the crane, WINCH • manual clutch to cut off the PTO, • automatic brake against unwinding, PLOUGH • pneumatic valves for raising and switching sider, GRITTER • PTO powered double auger (two salt compartments) + rotating dispenser, • manually operated stands WINTER IS COMING! I hope you like it. Please be patient about the video...I will prepare it as soon as possible. Best regards, Miha P.S.: Some more photos of the axles and the under side can be found here.
  23. Hello to the group. My daughter June complained about no trains in the Friends Series, so I tried to redesign the set 10219: Maersk Train (for me as a Noob in Trains one of the train sets I like the most) in LEGO Friends Style and Colors. The main structure of the objects remained the same, major changes were a) the interior of the locomotive cabine so that a friends figure fits in, b) the extension of 1 stud of the truck's cabine (a friends figure can also here sit in now), the front of the locomotive and the layout of the containers. All the parts exist in the corresponding colors, the light bluish grey train base plates are more or less the most "rare" parts. Maybe you like this mod of the 10219: Maersk Train. [MOC] June's Cargo Train by legolux1973, on Flickr Regards, legolux1973
  24. bricksboy

    [MOC]#92 Halloween Skull Truck

    LEGO MOC#92 Halloween Skull Truck Halloween is coming soon. It is time to build another Halloween creation. This year I designed this skull truck. I hope you will like it. I also created a stop-motion animation for this MOC: More MOC on my homepage:
  25. After a lot of tractors and construction vehicles, it was time for me to build another truck. This off road truck is based on the Iveco Eurocargo 4x4 with a knuckleboom crane. Full instructions may be found for free at The truck features the following: Rear wheel drive Two speed transmission I3 engine Rear pendular suspension Steering with HOG Dual outriggers Boom slewing Boom lift with HOG Boom section 2 lift Boom extension Three way tipper bed with HOG control Tilting cab Opening doors I had a lot of fun making this MOC, and I hope some of you are able to enjoy recreating it for yourself should you choose. All folded up. And all opened up. The rear tipper bed tips three ways. If for whatever reason you need to Studio file, send me a PM, and I'm happy to share. And a little video if you find it helpful. I hope you enjoy!