Commander Wolf

The marginally less unsuccessful Leader 2.0! I didn't see any pic/comment about it: what did you do for the third axle in the bogies? Is it sliding? How did you route the gearing around it?

Hello all, three years ago I finished a 1:350 scale model of the battleship Kongo, and now I have finally finished a second one! The Russian battleship Oktyabrskaya Revolutsiya launched in 1911 (originally as the Gangut) and served until 1956. I built the ship at the same scale as the Kongo as 1:350 is common for large plastic models. This video has more commentary and shows the ship running:

Thank you, that is exactly what I am looking for!

This is a really nice model. What is the scale?

For those of you who have taken the 12v motor apart, how do you open the case? It doesn't seem to have any of the tabs of the 9v motor; do you just have to cut around the entire edge?

Thanks! Are you in BayLUG?

Been a while for this thread, dumping a couple more larger/themed modules: Auto Dozer and Slide and Spin:

How did you remove the metal gear from the old motor and/or install it on the new motor? Just brute force? EDIT: Also, the 4.5v motor is pretty easy to disassemble since it has screws: does anyone know of a guide for dismantling the 12v motor?

Dat rotary phone

The body is very nice. I think you could make nicer trucks if you used Technic axles and the cross-axle wheels.

Clever containers. I did a double take

If you are using modern plastic track, especially R40, I think it's sufficiently strong to secure only the ends and let the curved section "float" on tiles.

Always depends on implementation, but I think in general cranks should be fine. I have at least one fairly heavy duty engine with one powered axle and the rest cranked, and I have not had any problem with the cranks.

Probably just that the rigid wheelbase is too long to take R40 switches cleanly. In my experience doing a rigid F-B-F wheelbase with XLs (single X) is already pushing it.

Thanks zephyr, appreciate your thought as always. I'm starting to get really torn on the R40 issue. With wide radius being used more often I don't know if I should care that stuff doesn't work on R40 anymore. I resist because it feels strongly non-purist to me (and I'm strongly purist when it comes to LEGO), but it does block a handful of bigger designs I like (say PRR Q2 or 80' passenger cars), though not too many. Which leads me to this next point: I'm a huge fan of the turbine engines (M1, John Henry, UP 1-75), steam and gas but they are all huge and would look silly on R40, though something I would start considering making to run on wider radius. The good part about the various turbines is that they don't have large drivers so it's easier to make something that will still work on R40 even if it looks silly. In fact I started working on the UP 8080 experimental GTEL, but never really got that far: