Appie

Eurobricks Knights
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About Appie

  • Birthday 12/16/1982

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    <p> Technic 42070 </p>

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    Male
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    My Lego room ;)

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    The Netherlands
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  1. I tested this type of connection a few days ago before you posted this idea and could rip the cord from the assembly easily. The difference being, I tested it without the fork and mast, you did it with. I like my individual connections strong without a mast and fork to share in the load and I suppose Lego does too, hence it not being in the model.
  2. My guess would be because it isn't firmly locked in place. Applying a mediocre amount of force on the fork might make the rope break free from that half pin. Same goes for @Aventador2004's solution, that pin hole with pins on both ends could turn once force is applied on the fork. Would this happen with normal play? Of course not. Is it a major problem if it does happen? Of course not, easy to fix if it does. Does Lego consider it "legal"? Maybe not.
  3. Not to derail this topic about a great looking start of a crane into something else, but: Actually, no argument here, totally agree. Big MOC's have alot more things that come into play than little ones (and you already mentioned quite a few).
  4. I am willing to bet the 6x AA Powered Up battery box will have more than 2 inputs, most likely 4. To accomendate any current Technic set motor set up (since they never went beyond 2 IR recievers). MOCs that need more are in for a bad time, but perhaps Lego surprises us with 6 inputs or some sort of extension wire that allows multiple wires plugged in. We'll see.
  5. I wish I saw this topic sooner @Cumulonimbus already did most of the work I spend a bit of time on to tinker on my own (funny to see the same solutions though). Big thanks to @M_longer for the LDD! The pieces on the left are what I removed and couldn't re-use. It's about 20 parts more than the original model. Internally these few things changed: - I also routed the steering to the light beacon on top and fixed the inverted steering issue. - Based on the review from Sariel I geared up the lifting of the fork and is now placed on the left side (right side is still tilt). - Also based on that review I added a friction axle pin to the tilt mechanism. I tried to keep most of the model as close to the original as possible while fixing these things. LDD originally made by M_Longer here (modified) Exactly why I felt compelled to mod it
  6. Seriously! Great B-model and the A-model looks very nice too imo. Thanks for the video @kbalage
  7. This looks very promising. Some very nice mechanics. I personally don't like the restraints per 3 seats, but understand the design choice. PF switches are 7 bucks @ Lego, bricklink probably won't be cheaper. I wouldn't do RC, but perhaps 2 motors or a gearbox switching between your 3 arms functions and the restraints/entrance-exit mechanism with 1 motor? Have the arms follow a fixed routine of motions and then the ride ends. I think that's how they work in real life? One press of a button and the operator goes afk Queue the restraints/entrance mechanism at that point and done?
  8. So here is the LDD For some reason the rear left corner got misaligned somewhere which caused parts to "not fit" while it should perfectly fit and isn't anything out of the ordinary while building with Lego. I colour coded these parts to dark azure, the way they are supposed to be placed is easy to figure out I think based on photo's in this topic. The 24T gear in front of the LDD model goes on the axle of the camshaft parts towards the 8T gear. The 3x11 curved panels won't all fit in LDD for some weird reason that I don't want to waste time on since it's pretty easy to figure out how to mount those anyway. The rubber band in front of the model in the LDD is to be mounted here: In order to get proper movement, aligning the gears to this starting position should make for a smooth operation: As you can see: keep a little more than 1 stud free on the axle in the red box and angle the face of the banana all the way to the left. In the bottom it will look like this: The red arrow shows the position of the gearrack if you aligned the axle in the red box of the previous picture properly. The yellow arrow indicates the angle required of the camshaft pieces for the movement. If you got any more questions, feel free to ask, if not: happy building maybe?
  9. No, making the LDD is already time I don't have, not making a video for a mod I don't like.
  10. Sure, there's one speed up left with minimal effort in the same space: 2x24T gear where there's 12T and 36T now visible in the bottom shot. I personally don't like it that fast since this is already as fast as I like it. Faster and it would be barely visible in the arm movement (it's close to this now already). And I don't think it is out of sync with the tune, it just isn't as hyper on the highspeed beat like the original, but flows fine with the tune overall imo. Version 1.0 had a 8T and 40T at first that felt way too slow and out of tune, so quickly went to 12-36. Then I also speed up some gears inside in version 2 for up and down movement from 20-12 to 24-8 (though this was more a happy side effect of wanting the banana to dip deeper with the new lever setup). So not much to be gained there in the available space anymore either. Edit: Just gave it a whirl with 2x24T in place of the 12-36. It's alot faster, but not really in a good way imo. The arm movement is severly limited, due to the mechanism already being on the way back before your eyes notice (or perhaps even the mechanism itself can get to) a full extention. Also the M-motor seems to be pushing its limit with this in terms of torgue. Once the LDD is finished, feel free to try it yourself. The 24T have plenty of room to be placed, but the liftarm I got in place across the 12T-36T in the bottom shot will need to be moved so the gears don't run from their respective axles (mainly an issue for the 36T one).
  11. Appie

    [MOC] Ferrari Testarossa

    Looks great with nice details and functions. Great job of part usage with the ribs in the doors/sidepods. One thing I personally don't like because it is quite different from the real life counterpart, is the lack of flow of the roof above the engine. It suddenly drops a full stud to the panels. Now I am sure you tried alot to sort this out like the doors, but just to make sure: flex axles above the panels wasn't an option? Or another construction to not have stuff above the panels so they could be raised a stud?
  12. Ye, but it's only the banana at the moment, so give me some time to finish it.
  13. I redesigned the internals since the first version was quite messy. Much like me being unable to build outside-in, I can't build from up (right under the banana) to down either. So while having the 1.0 guts as reference I got to make a more efficient 2.0 that doesn't move while turned on (can see it moving forwards on the table in the 1.0 video) and has room for a big battery box now that is easy to remove (as was my original intention). Some minor tweaks to the banana itself while making a LDD, the rear of its head is now half a stud higher (caused a collison in LDD that I didn't notice on the panels in real life) and for a more rigid base, moved the legs half stud out. Main changes are here though: Fun fact: the banana alone is about 260 parts in LDD