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Found 11 results

  1. Hello everyone I am a brand new member to the Euro Bricks community having been a long time browser of the site. I decided to become a member recently due to the failure of one of my sets improperly functioning. I own the Technic Crawler Crane (42042) and have thoroughly enjoyed that set. Just recently it has developed a problem no one can resolve. For some unknown reason, the functions involving moving forwards and back, as well as lowering and raising the boom have started to struggle drastically. New batteries solved nothing, no gears appear broken, and the motor has good torque still. Yet when I try the functions it is clear something is wrong. The turning of the body and the lowering of the claw appear to be fine. I am hoping that someone can help my problem as this set is one of my favorites and it is now discontinued. If anyone can help it would be much appreciated!! Thank you for your time. Here is the link to a video showing the problem: Regards Max
  2. Hi guys, Have a mod'd 42042 (Catweasal MOC) and then added more boom, larger tracks + extra counterweight. Decided to add a few more sheaves to assist the motor boom up with a load on the hook but am having trouble getting the sheaves to distribute the weight evenly across all 12 / 14 sheaves etc. I've made sure all the sheaves have free play in them and are not binding up..... also made sure to reduce the angle of the rope from the motor to the first sheave to 0 degrees so that there is no side pull on the sheaves. I was thinking maybe I need to grease the shaft and side of sheaves to reduce the friction further but now that I think of it, could it possibly be due to flex in the shaft / frame at both ends that loads up the sheaves unevenly? On the other hand when I had the sheave designed 4 wide but 2 rows on both sides (so 8 sheaves wide in theory), I still had the problem with the last few sheaves / ropes having no tension on them... Any ideas????
  3. Improved 42042 Crawler Crane. Banana Man for scale. It's hard for me to overstate how much I love the Technic Crawler Crane 42042. I've been constantly tinkering with it and making improvements since I got it about 6 months ago. My method is basically to lift heavier and heavier stuff until it falls over or something breaks. Then I rebuild. This is how it got to where you see it today. I don't really care about the tracks or the slewing. I want to lift heavier stuff, higher! So far my mod/improvement list reads like this: Upgraded the block & tackle harness for better mechanical advantage Added a quick-adjust system for efficient rigging changes to the harness, main hoist, and hook Beefed up gantry or A-frame: wider, taller, and much stronger Improved existing back hitch and added a second back hitch Counterweight box Strong, longer boom Paid almost (!)$20 for stupid Technic metal hook Integrated claw storage on gantry XL Motor upgrade Boom foot return damper thing Replaced LEGO string with synthetic cable (from Chin-a) Here it is in action. Read on for a more thorough description and photos of each mod/improvement. Click through on the photos to view them at larger sizes. Block & Tackle The first thing I did was add blocks to the block & tackle system allowing me to really turn up the mechanical advantage the motor has over the load when raising and lowering the boom. This of course comes at the cost of speed, but I'm OK with that. The nice thing about this is I don't have to actually use all the blocks. Quick Adjust Rigging on Harness and Main Hoist You can see my bright red and yellow-handled quick adjust axles with the red and yellow grips on the side of the harness assembly. This makes it easy to slip the rigging in and out of the blocks to fine tune my power/speed balance for the specific load. I also have these at the end of the boom and on the pulley so I can adjust the speed/power tradeoff on the hoist line. I added this quick disconnect system after I'd re-strung the rigging for the hundredth time. I can re-thread the rigging on both the harness and the main hoist line to go from "high gear" with max lift speed to "low gear" for max power in just a minute or two. (I had originally made these with axles that have stoppers on the end, but ended up using regular axles, because I have a ton of them.) A couple of timelapse (YouTube) videos of the quick change. Stronger & Wider Gantry The gantry in the stock model is really weak. It is wholly comprised of 4 Technic lift arms held in place with 6 friction pins. As I added heavier loads this system was quickly outgrown. I was bending lift arms and even popping the entire assembly off the superstructure. So I rebuilt. The new gantry is wider, allowing for more blocks in the harness. It is many times over more rigid and is taller, allowing the harness mount to be further back over the body, which in turn allows the main boom to be drawn up higher to a much steeper final angle. This piece took a long time and has been through the most revisions over the months. I did a lot of research by looking at other LEGO models, other and peoples crane MOCs. Both arms of this gantry are heavily inspired by the gantry on LEGO Crawler Crane 8288 (http://brickset.com/sets/8288-1), which I would love to own a copy of someday (not today). Improved Back Hitch The back hitch (the two black lift arms supporting the gantry) also quickly became insufficient. The anchor it was tied into was bending and getting stress cracks, so I created a stronger attachment system for it elsewhere. I also added a second back hitch that ties directly into the improved counterweight... Counterweight Box One of the challenges with cranes is counterweight. As the amount of load it can lift and move improves, their is a corresponding increase in risk of tipping. The original model cleverly uses the battery box mounted all the way at the back edge of the body. It's literally the furthest element from the tip of the boom. I added a weight box behind it that is open and easily filled with ballast of my choosing. C Batteries work extremely well because of their density and modularity. It has an open design so it's easy to adjust the weight on the fly as needed depending on the load and the angle of the boom. After building it, I added a the second back hitch directly attached to the gantry to remove stress from the body connection of the weight box and from the first front back hitch (heh). When the gantry starts carrying a lot of load, I don't know that the front hitch bears any at all. Stronger, Longer, Better Boom Maybe the most noticeable feature is the length of the new boom. The original is 30 studs long, not counting the butt and tip, with an optional section to extend it to 45 studs. This booms main section is 75 studs long. At this length, it had some really concerning droop/bending at full extension. However, I was also able to easily reconfigure the inner supporting structure to be much stronger since I didn't care about the ability to easily add and remove sections. I also added the outer white panels to help with rigidity as they span the weak links between the blue 15L lift arms that are the main defining component of the boom. The boom tip received an upgrade in the form of a smoother operating block and tackle system (with quick disconnect axle just like the harness) controlling the main hoist. I also added an aviation warning light, obviously the most complex and impressive mod thus far :) Main Hook/Claw Storage I purchased a Technic Large Metal Hook (http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=70644#T=P) for like $15. It's easily the most I've ever paid for a single LEGO piece. Considering the time I've spent on this model, though, I thought it was worth it. It's mounted to the main hoist with the smallest of my quick adjust rigging axles. I can attach the hook directly to something of course, or I can use it to hang the functional claw the system came with. When the claw is not in use, I have a storage peg for it that can be placed on either side of the gantry. I built this after I got tired of it sitting on the bench next to the crane most of the time. Much like the quick adjust rigging system, it's a simple mod that has a high convenience impact when moving this thing around for play, improvements, and storage. More Power (XL Motor upgrade) After removing the clutch gears and incrementally strengthening everything else to lift progressively heavier and heavier loads through probably hundreds of lifts at this point, the 9V Power Functions L Motor (99499) that came with the system finally died (predictably). To LEGO's credit, they're already shipping me another. They didn't even ask if it had been systematically subjected to increasing levels of abuse since purchase. Rather than wait for the replacement to arrive I hooked up an XL I had laying around. It's slower, but has more torque. As you can see it is mounted almost all the way at the front of the body, which is not ideal considering the weight. I may end up routing it further back if I can figure out a way to that looks this good. I did have to git rid of the ladder that was here on the original model, but this is Technic, so whatever. It's not like I'm bouncing minifigs around and doing voices when I play with the thing. Boom Return Damper/Helper If you increase the mechanical advantage of the harness too much, the boom has trouble releasing from very high angles. There just isn't enough weight to pull the cable off the spool on the base. I added this spring mechanism to the butt of the boom to help push it out when there is very little lateral load. I may be swapping these gray Technic springs out soon for the stronger yellow ones as it could be more effective. They will also look better matching the contrasting yellow parts of this assembly against the blue. Rigging Cable Through many rounds of adjusting and rebuilding I replaced the rigging cable several times. As I added to the superstructure more cable length was needed. Going down certain oaths and backtracking also had me replacing the cable with different lengths over and over. LEGO string is expensive, so I ended up buying a small spool of this stuff off Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LDIKURQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 after seeing it recommended elsewhere on these boards. It works well. It's thicker than LEGO string, so be aware, but it's also stronger and it has a bit of a metallic shine, so it looks more like the steel cable you'd see on the real life inspiration for this model. Conclusion That's about it. The major takeaway is that this thing can now lift 750 grams up off the floor below my bench and place it on the bench right next to it (from up to 80 cm away). Good stuff. I also think I retained most of the good looks of the original set. I'm not done tweaking yet, but I wanted to do this write up and show it off a bit before I break it again, because my next mod is likely going to happen in the gear box, if at all.
  4. Hi, after my [CMODEL] 42042 - Bulldozer I decided to publish my next alternative build for 42042 this time it is a FORKLIFT. I only used parts from 42042 except for the string (265cm needed) - I chose light green to make it more visible. Features: 4 motorized functions: - drive (front axle) with differential (made thanks to turntable) - steering (rear axle) (manual HOG steering when steering position on gearbox in neutral is there too) - Ackerman steering - tilting of the mast - lifting of the forks The mast is telescopic. Forks move in 4 segments. Lifting is achieved by system of string and pulleys. Lifting is not the fastest but that is intentional. My goal was to go for "as high as possible" design, instead of "fast" one. Wheels go really well on carpets, blankets. They tend to slip on hard surfaces (tiles), they are made from tracks (42042 has no tires) - it is easy to modify/replace tire wheels (You can do it. I do not want to, I want to keep it as C-Model) Gearbox's levers is easy to access. The gearbox is 4 channels/functions two-way kind. Easy and simple battery change. The battery pack also serves as counterweight. Details: lights, steps, logical position of stickers from 42042 A-model (no altering), seat (made from tracks!), steering wheel, mirrors, levers etc. MOC designed completely digital free way, no computers were used, just old-fashioned building, rebuilding and again, again. I hope you will like it. Please excuse my photos. leftover parts: EDIT: NEW VIDEO: NEW PICTURES: INSTRUCTIONS PREVIEW: LEGO level quality. Step by step, hi res. With all the necessary details, additional pictures, arrows etc. Bill of material, Stickers (not altered from 42042 A-Model), Battery replacement sequence, Function explanation https://rebrickable.com/mocs/J_C/forkliftcmodel42042 (It took me forever to make the instructions - there are 324pages (cover to cover) - 19pages only on threading the string through all the rollers and pulleys) RENDERS: from 3D model I made - ex post - for instruction creation:
  5. I have been shamelessly plugging the Lego Technic 42042 Crawler Crane over in the "What should I buy" thread here at Eurobricks but I just came across a new reason to buy it that I thought was relevant to a more general audience. A company in Europe called PV Productions has created a C-Model that is a GBC contraption. (No relation, ownership nor knowledge of who they are.) calls it a D Model because he has two GBC C models created from the set, but only the D Model is available for purchase now... and purchase it, I did! My seven year old son is into small Lego Techic models as he doesn't have enough patience to build the 1,000+ piece models, but after showing him the video, he wants to build it with me this weekend. Only problem... I don't own any of the Lego soccer or basketballs that are used for GBC models and I have no desire to pay the crazy $2.50+ costs per ball!! I've attached a video below (I assume that's okay) to the Youtube video he created of the D model. I'll be picking up the C-Model as soon as it's available for purchase. He also has pending future GBC models for sales that are all C Models of 42043, 42054 and another that is a 2 set C Model but I cannot recall which... Watch the video and you want to buy the set and want to figure out how to buy some Lego balls or alternatives. If soeone has a good recommendation for an alternate source, I would love to know it. Update: just checked my Paypal receipt and the PV stands for Phillip Verbeek, I think.
  6. For a while now, I'm working on a crawler crane. As discussed elsewhere, progress has stopped and this topic is an attempt to jump start the build again and finish it so it can join my collection. So here it goes: The project started with the launch of the 42042 Crawler crane and was a simple MOD at first, but quickly evolved into two MOCs. It didn't like the proportions of the body and cab of the 42042 and wanted to add some features like expandable or removable tracks. The first LDD sketches looked something like this: As some will probably notice, at this point I was still considering to make its larger brother the Liebherr LR1250 as well as a HS855HD. The LR1200 plan has been dropped, because it was simply a bigger version of the 8288 and brought nothing new. During my research, I found the HS855HD was more interesting, because it's a so-called duty cycle crane, a very versatile machine designed to do repetitive tasks efficiently, for example dragline work, soil compacting, (un)loading bulk materials etc. One of the consequences is the fact it has a free fall function on some of its winches, making it possible to drop the bucket or tool to either save time or to provide impact force (you can see this feature in and ). This seemed a nice function to try to implement in my MOC.After a few trial and errors, I came up with this internal mechanism: (The newest clutch parts are not used yet in this image) The controls are very similar as in the 42042: each winch has one switch with two positions: one for winding up the winch, one for winding it down. It is powered with the L motor of the 42042. My addition is the clutch system (in yellow) for the green and blue winch. Push the lever and the winches are simultaneously disconnected form the rest of the system and will unwind under the weight of the tool attached. Releasing the lever will allow the spring to re-engage the yellow clutches, linking them again to the drive. Meanwhile, I also wanted to capture the looks of this machine. It has linked manual expandable tracks, a tiltable cabine, and a inspection hatch. This is the current state of the tracks and body: At the moment, the bottleneck is the fact that the clutch system has too much back-lash or too much play to fully disconnect. I need to move the spring closer to the lever I think, which is rather challenging due to the compact build. Another issue to be solved is the expandable tracks which seem to snag on the chassis when under load. I would like to make my MOC as versatile as the real machine and design the parts to convert it in a dragline, double hook, clamshell bucket or foundation excavator configuration. To be continued ...
  7. Hi, I would like to present my C_model for 42042. I love 42042 set. I think it is the most underrated set. I do not like very much that often B models are not very different from A models. That is the case for 42042. B crane is still a crane. So I decided to build something different. Bulldozer My goals was to build good looking, sturdy, very playable, easy to operate (my kids tested that well :-) ) model. Features (motor operated): drive steering lifting of the blade lifting of rear rippers Manual: openable hood I also wanted: accessible battery pack. (it is simple to get it out and replace batteries) decent colour coordination (hence GT white fast strip :-) ) logical position of parts with stickers from 42042 A model Body is easy to remove and put back on. Please tolerate quality of my pictures. Thank you for feedback. Pictures: Leftover parts: Video: (click to view on flickr) Edit (reaction to instruction question from comments): I designed this completely computer free way, just building, "un-building", rebuilding, and again building. Therefore I do not have instructions - I might do it later (I need to learn how) - I do LEGOing only "computer free" way. I design stuff for living, so I do not want to use computers in my free time. EDIT 2: REBRICKABLE - Instructions There are instructions (hi-res PDF computer generated step-by-step, with bill of material and everything) available Edit 3: Now I made some computer renders, hope you like them:
  8. hello everyone, this is my first time posting here so hopefully what I've done is okay. Im a long time user of lego since i was a kid up until probably 3-4 years ago but recently i bough the 42042 kit. This being my first ever Technic kit and first time using technic pieces i was excited to give it a go. I'm pretty happy with how the crane looks and its power functions but obviously i was like to modify it in my own way. I've searched through this forum (and others) on various modifications but have found it fairly difficult at times to understand what exactly everyone is talking about. So, i was hoping that opening this topic where everyone could post their own 42042 modifications, and others that they have seen, leaving an explanation and details on what can/needs to be done as well as additional parts required for the mod. thanks and i hope to see some stuff soon!
  9. Hi, I am new in the forum!! I have already built quite a lot of Lego Technic sets, but never done something from my ideas. I would love to build a very big crane starting from the new set 42042. Could you please some advise on how to proceed ( my idea was to dissasemble some sets and simpy enlarge starting from the instruction, also adding some parts to it in order to make it usable ). Thank you, Davide
  10. Hi All, I've spend the last weeks time on building a new bridge for my trains. I wanted something that was big enough for ships to pass through, inspired by JANGBRiCKS' Drawbridge. With the 42042 set containing a lot of liftarms, I got a set off that and started to work. The result is a blue/grey bridge spanning over 64 studs, and raises for ships to pass: LEGO Train bridge The mechanism uses the boom system from the Crawler Crane, with some modifications: LEGO Train bridge LEGO Train bridge LEGO Train bridge It's all controlled from the house next to the bridge: LEGO Train bridge Where the person in charge has a nice view of the tracks and bridge: LEGO Train bridge LEGO Train bridge Here is a little video of it in action. Video of trains passing: Now I just need to build a harbour... ;-)
  11. I really like this set, and even it has IMO a great gearbox, one of the first things I was thinking of after completing the build, was how to make it RC. I guess most of the six functions are straight forward, but operation of the claw is obviously more tricky. I tried to figure out if it was possible to operate the claw by the hoist string. I realized that it is possible to transfer motion to a pulley in the claw simply by pulling the string on one side of the pulley, and letting out on the other side. The claw should then in theory be kept at the same level, and the motion transfered to the pulley could be used to drive the m-LA. To achieve this, I have used two reels, each of them connected to the ouputs of a subtractor (geared down 1:3 with Z12 and Z36 double bevel gears). If using tracked vehicle implementation of a subtractor as a reference, the "drive" part is done with a M motor driving a worm gear that in turn drives a Z8 spur gear. The "turn" part is done by a XL motor, directly driving the differential housings. I probably could use a L motor as well, thus avoid the coasting of the XL. The string I have used, is simple string for packing purposes. I guess it is better (and more puristic) to use the thick LEGO string, as it looks better, is more solid and no twisting. Problem is, can I get a thick LEGO string that is long enough? Please don't judge from the aesthetics, the main goal for me at this stage was to demonstrate the idea, and I have not put a lot of effort in the looks, or making it compact. Link to video: Here is my own judge for the idea: Pros: IMO it looks more clean than a hanging motor with it's supplying wires. Both hoisting and claw operation may be done simultaneously. Able to operate two functions with a simple string. Adding mechanical complexity to the model, something I like. Cons: The torque delivered to the m-LA is limited, so the grip of the claw is not very strong. It should be apx. equal amount of string on both reals, to achieve claw operation without changing the level of the claw. Claw operation is depending on friction between the string and the claw pulley. If the the claw is resting on the ground or the object it should lift, it will not work. Probably not real-life-like implementation of claw operation. Another idea I have, still not tested, is to convert the hoist string into a closed loop. the claw implementation is the same, with a pulley driving the m-LA. On the tip of the boom, there is a pulley, driven by cross axles from the super structure (the reason for location on the tip of the boom is to reduce length of the string, and number of pulleys, to reduce friction). The hoist may then be done by two pulleys pulled along the boom, towards the super structure. One of the advantages of this implementation, if it works, is that "Con #2" above is eliminated. I don't know if this description makes sense to you, I will try to test this version also. Main problem is, how to make a long, closed loop of LEGO string, without any bumps. I appreciate any feedback, including cons. And I also hope to inspire some of you to come up with a better solution. PS: Somebody who knows how to embed a "visual" youtube link, like most of the others do (I didn't figure out)?