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Found 6 results

  1. This racer has rear wheel drive, without a diferential to avoid becoming stuck on slight ground changes. The default gear ratio is 1:1,667 which means it can run really fast if you give it space, but isn’t able to take on slopes, you can change the gears if you so wish when building, there is space for that. It is by no means a mechanical wonder but features what is called a “realistic pivot steering”, which means the front wheels don’t travel back and forth while turning, this allowed me to design the hood very close to the tires without the problem of colliding and causing friction, and it also allows for a very good turning radius. Main functions: -One l-motor powers both rear wheels with a ratio of 1:1,667 to make it run forward or backwards. -One servo motor controlls the ralistic pivot steering mechanism with an excellent turning radius. It's a nice MOC for some quick fun. Please feel free to leave your opinion in the comments. As usual, for anyone interested, building instructions and parts list are available at MocsMarket
  2. Hey guys! I present my new model, a BuWizz 2.0 powered Baja Truck! It features: Independent double wishbone front suspension, with servo steering and positive caster for better return-to-center Live axle rear suspension, powered by a buggy motor and BuWizz 2.0 My goal with this truck was to make a small, lightweight truck with excellent offroad capabilities and smooth suspension travel, while also giving it a realistic look with the least number of pieces. Overall I'm quite satisfied with the result! Here's a video: And more photos: More photos can be found on the BrickSafe page: Hope you guys enjoyed! -Teo
  3. Hello everyone and welcome to another of my original creations. This time it’s a remote controlled buggy, i call it “Rapid Raptor”, there’s no specific reason for the name, i just like how it sounds. If you have been following my MOC releases, you know my previous two (the “Red Arrow SUV” and the “Sporty SUV”) shared the same chassis, which featured return-to-center steering and independent front suspension; this buggy was built upon it as well and expanded on its functionality by adding rear suspension. Ok, what so special about this chassis? Well, it doesn’t use any rare parts or specialized pieces like shock absorbers, steering racks, etc… It was done using only common liftarms, connectors, axles and pins. Now let’s talk about the buggy itself, it’s 41 studs long, 16 studs tall and 23 studs wide; i consider it to be medium-sized. It is fully suspended, using common rubber bands, which take less space and are surprisingly responsive, having decent ground clearance. The return-to-center steering is achieved using a PF servo motor; it is RWD, a single PF l-motor drives the rear wheels with a gear ratio of 1.4:1, it is slightly biased towards torque which is expected for an off-roader but it still runs fast as you can check on the video below. The PF battery box is hidden by the buggy body and inaccessible, but the button to turn it on or off is linked to the rear bumper, which can be pulled or pushed to operate it. The IR receiver is occupying the cabin, this way the sensor can receive the light from every direction. The rear axle is exposed and while many may see this as an unfinished section, i left it that way intentionally because i like to see the gears working and the suspension doing its job; a MOC should be the reflection of its creator. This is a MOC meant to be played outdoors, so i highly recommend using a bluetooth solution if you can, because the IR receiver is useless under daylight. I hope you liked it. For anyone interested, building instructions are available at Belle-Ve Bricks
  4. Welcome and thank you for checking out my MOC, i really appreciate it. As the name implies, this MOC features a "subtractor mechanism". If you don't know what it is, a quick search online will answser your questions, show various versions and what it is used for, but in a nutshell, it allows tracked vehicles to take on curves very smoothly and be remote controlled the same way as any regular RC car: one lever to go forward/backward, and another to steer (check the picture below for reference). I decided to do this MOC because there are plenty of subtractor mechanism examples and variations on the internet, but not many MOCs actually taking advantage of it, so here's my contribution. The set 42095 was the main source for parts, so you're up to a good start if you have it, only needing additional liftarms, gears and some miscelanious pieces. Since this MOC is intended to be a racer, i wanted it to be as fast as possible, but the subtractor mechanism requires so many gears to function, that it generates a lot of friction; the MOC itself is somewhat heavy for its compact size (760g) despite several design optimizations. Keep in mind it's only one l-motor pushing the vehicle as the second l-motor is dedicated to steering (unlike conventional tracked vehicles in which both motors push the vehicle). This means i had to reduce the motor to wheels gear ratio (which is 1,667:1) to give it some extra torque. I don't consider it to be slow (check the video below to get a better idea), but would love to see someone powering it with a buwizz on ludicrous mode as i don't have one. This MOC was interesting to develop. As always, for anyone interested, parts list and building instructions are available at MocsMarket As you might guess, it took several tries, optimizations and redesigns before achieving the final design and functionality you see here. I don't usually share any of my preliminar version MOCs as their quality is subpar, but i decided to share the first complete beta version i built while developing this MOC. I forgot to take real pictures, but here are some studio renders of it. Enjoy!
  5. Sariel

    RC Railroad Crane

    Hi guys, I hope you won't mind a Technic guy playing with Trains a little. I have created something very ugly, but at the same time quite playable: More info & pics:
  6. If You enjoy building chassis more than designing body designs, this is one of the best building styles for you: Buying Lego sets and making them remote-controlled. I have modded almost every Lego set I got over the last couple of years and made some guidlines for the best possible outcome. PLEASE NOTE: This are the guidlines I like to use. Other people might have different and I totally respect theirs. That's the best part about Lego: Everyone can build how they want, and it should always stay like that. I just thought I'd share my guidlines, as they may inspire some to also mod official Lego sets. ✴Do not change the look. Your only goal should be to make the model remote-controlled, not improving the appereance. ✴Always hide electric components. This is the statement that bothers me thr most: "I'll simply put the motor outside the body because I can't find any space inside". That way you not only wreck the model's looks, but also fail at the challenge of fitting everything inside. ✴Make reasonable changes. Before you mod a function, figure out if it will be convenient to operate. For example, it would not make sense to remote control a gearbox' motor, but having to switch the gears manually. ✴Do not add or remove any functions. The final outcome should still feel like the original model, just remote-controlled. If you follow this guidlines, your result should be a fun to play with, nice looking model. You succedeed, when the following conversation happens when showing your model to another Lego fan: A: " Look what I built" B: "Oh, nice, you got the xxx set' A: "Yes, I even made it remote-controlled, " B: "What?! How did you fit all that stuff in there? O_o" If you now feel like modding a Lego set, I've prepared some tips and set recommendations for you: ✔Make a plan: Think about where to put what component before building anything. Also have a second plan, as it often turns out something wont work the way you thought. (I often make plans before even owning the set by looking at the instructions) ✔Lights are a nice, but simple addition. You sometimes have to change the way they are mounted, but it pays off. ✔If you run out of space, remove the fake engine, it doesn't hurt that much. ✔Wires need more space than you think, so keep some room for them. (Especially when using lot of Leds) ✔A common setup is the following: Steering & driving RC, lights & gearbox' motor attached to switches. ✔Mid-range sets are the easiest to mod because they have the most space unused. ✔Assemble the set yourself, because you get a better understanding of how things work and what you can remove. I highly recommend the 42008 service truck and the 42006 excavator for modding, as they both have plenty of space left. I modded both of them, so feel free to ask me for help if you're stuck, I would be honored to help you out! Personally, I really enjoy RC modding Lego sets, and I hope this post inspires some of you to try it out too. I would love to hear about your ways of doing it! Greetings, Technirus