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Found 21 results

  1. Hi there I've been searching for the designer/artist of the original duplo rabbit logo and come up with dead ends. A friend told me to try asking here. Is there any info about it that anyone knows? Thanks!
  2. LEGO train bridges

    Dear All, my train layout is built “into/around” my home office, which is located in the attic. With the pitched roof area beginning at a height of about 60 cm (2,0 feet), there are not that many options for placing longer runs of LEGO track, as close to the walls in about 40 cm (1,3 feet) height. The floor area is 4,2 x 6,3 m2 (26,5 m2 = 285 square feet), whereas at 2 m height (6,6 feet) there is only a 40 cm (1,3 feet) width section … so beware of your head! Figure 1: Schematic views of my home office. Top: Room cross section. Bottom: Floor plan. All numbers in meters. [The most important question of course is: 2,3 feet? I simply used an online tool for the conversion – I am wondering, is the “,3” bit in the decimal system? Which would mean: 1 foot and 3 tens of a foot. That does not make much sense as there are 12 inches in one foot … and 2,54 cm in an inch. There are 30,5 cm in one foot (rounded) – so we have 3/10*30,5 + 30,5 cm = 39,7 cm which is close enough to 40 cm.] OK, I am just kidding – I lived for 4 years in the US – changed/added a good deal of things around and to the house and - it is absolutely no problem to adjust to the yard – feet – inch world. None what so ever. Because you have to; there are simply no “cm” or “m” in the US … Uhmmm – what did I want to show … sorry: Yes, bridges. When you live in an attic, there may be holes in the floor to get there via stairs. And maybe doors opening to another room. And furniture; certainly not only 60 cm high (I leave it in the metric world) … so you need to mount your track to the walls behind or even “through” furniture, under desks, and you need bridges – many. Essentially it is one large bridge - this post is about the brick- or semi-brick built sections on my train layout. Figure 2: Floorplan and track layout. Left: “Principal” track arrangement: Two main outer loops, two smaller independent loops around the chimney on the left and on the right. Right: Actual BlueBrick track layout. Note that there are two track levels. Red rectangles indicate bridges as referenced below. With respect to Figure 2, left: This was the principal idea: Two parallel main track sections going around the entire room (outer two red lines). Then one circle on the right and one around the chimney on the left. There are possible track levels, as indicated by the two stacked red lines in Figure 2, top left. Problem #1: The stairs (shown in green, top) to get up to my office; here only one section of track fits in between outer wall and hole in the floor. Solution #1: A long incline eventually allowing the two track sections to run “stacked”. Problem #2: The door (also in green, bottom) giving way to the next room stuffed with stuff that we regularly look for. Solution #2: A draw bridge, which is always in the “up” position when I am not playing. On the same image on the right, a BlueBrick generated track layout is overlaid. It actually consist of two “layers” – there is a good section of elevated track under my desk on the left and also behind some book shelves on the right. This is why the layout looks pretty congested in some areas. Most of the track running close to the walls is not visible (or is behind furniture) and is mounted on wooden supports which in turn are mounted to the wall. Some of these areas are rather complex modular constructions, as I need to get there from time to time. Then there are some regions covered with low-level “table” type areas (IKEA is your friend) – as well as supports mounted to furniture. The same is true for “tunnels” – they are all over the place as I have to run some track sections “through furniture”. Coming back to bridges: The red rectangles in Figure 2 on the right indicate the LEGO built bridge sections. I used all sorts of LEGO bricks: DUPLOs from my daughters (now 20 and 22 years old; asked for permission of course!) to swiftly gain elevation, combined with System bricks and plates to adjust to required heights/widths. And Technic stuff to secure things. Oh well and Monorail track … I guess Monorail enthusiast will not like that … BUT: This stuff is fantastic to structurally support bridges!!! Bridge 1 This one is lame – uses the Monorail straight tracks as main structural support – and DUPLO bricks mixed with System bricks and plates for the end-sections. Figure 3a: Bridge 1, location on layout cf. Figure 2. Figure 3b: Bridge 1. Bridge 2 This one is a little more complex. It is a fully automated draw bridge integrated into my PBrick control scheme (and here). The PBrick operating that thing is a Scout. It has its own ID address and understands 4 commands: “Up”, “Down”, “Stop”, and “Status”. Manual control is also possible; the switch to toggle the mode from “remote” to “manual” control is the light brick in combination with the built-in light sensor of the Scout. Further, there are two touch sensors to ensure that the Scout knows the status of the bridge. One detects the fully “up” and the other the fully “down” position. When both sensors are open, the bridge is somewhere in between. To make things a little more appealing, a slightly modified/extended #42042 crane is used as power source. I needed to extend and fix the boom to the ceiling as the load is fairly heavy. Furthermore, I used a pulley system apparently called “threefold purchase” (according to Fig. 6-21 on page 64 in Sariel’s extremely helpful “The unofficial technic builder’s guide” book (http://sariel.pl/2016/10/guide2/) to get a mechanical pulling power advantage of 6. This way the PF M motor used in #42042 manages to draw the bridge up from the fully down position, which requires the biggest drawing momentum, without hassle. Figure 4a: Bridge 2, location on layout cf. Figure 2. Figure 4b: Bridge 2, entire structure, “down” position. Top: Top view showing the track. Bottom: Side view with a “track lift” on the left, LEGO storage shelves on the right, and a door to the storage room, which remains clear in the “up” position. Figure 4c: Bridge 2, details of the sensor mounts (“up” sensor mounted to the book shelf, “down” sensor mounted to the underside of the bridge) and the pair of guide rollers. Figure 4d: Bridge 2, details of the Scout PBrick, the #42042 crane, and the pulley mechanism providing a mechanical advantage of 6 when drawing/releasing the bridge. This video shows a little more … Bridge 3 This bridge is fully LEGO brick-built and spans my entire “City” area. It also connects to the next bridge via a curved elevated segment, which was quite challenging (for me …) to give the supporting structure a “solid” appearance. Figure 5a: Bridge 3, location on the layout cf. Figure 2. Figure 5b: Bridge 3. Top: From the wooden shelf track support on the left an elevated two track segment travels behind the City buildings. Bottom: The two elevated tracks merge into a curved one-track segment. Figure 5c: Bridge 3. Bottom left: The curved one-track segment. Bottom right: There is a small pedestrian bridge providing access to the light house. Top: The curved segment continues with a longer straight stretch. A largely modified #10027 train shed (with an additional structure on top) serves (also) as track support. There is a small grating type secured elevated path, which allows the City train personnel to survey the City traffic situation and act properly … Bridge 4 This bridge is a semi-brick-built structure; however, as it spans the opening for the stairs to the story below my office, I wanted to be sure. There is a wall mounted main support which is “decorated” with a supporting structure consisting of Monorail curved track segments; on top though the long incline in the back as well as the elevated track segment connecting to Bridge 3 is entirely brick-built and self-supporting. Again with System and DUPLO bricks – there is even some DUPLO SNOT. With the addition of Technic beams, the pylons have become quite sturdy, so I may even replace the wooden “floor” sections with actual LEGO bricks and plates but that has to wait for a longer time, I guess … Figure 6a: Bridge 4, location on the layout cf. Figure 2. Figure 6b: Bridge 4. Bottom: Entire view of the bridge structure; on the right, the City bridge structure merges with the level 2 section of the outer loop (cf. Figure 2). Top left: In the front (barely noticeable) the inner main loop at level 1; in the back the long incline (sloped at 2 plates/ 9V track piece) of the outer loop main loop. The arrow points to the incline on both pictures. Top right: Last bridge section leading to a long stretch of track behind book shelves. Figure 6c: Bridge 4. View from the stairs giving access to the attic (cf. Figure 2), showing the curved Monorail tracks as supports along with the Technic cross bars. Figure 6d: Bridge 4. Some details of the Duplo-, Technic-, and System-bricks used for the support structure. Figure 6e: Bridge 4. Details of the last bridge section leading behind some book shelves using straight mono rail tracks and bridge support parts (#55767) as main structural elements. The pylons are made from Duplo and System bricks. Bottom right: Some Duplo SNOT on the main pylon. There are some more images on BrickShelf (http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?m=ThorstenB), just navigate to the “bridges” folder. These are pretty large in size though. Best regards, Thorsten
  3. Hi folks, I am not only new here, but also currently trying to get my Ideas project to become the first ever DUPLO submission reaching 100 supporters. There have been thousands and thousands of projects submitted, but only a handful of DUPLO ideas. I actually like DUPLO bricks better than LEGO bricks... are there other people around, having the same "disorder" ? And of course I'd really like to know what you think about my project: DUPLO Mysteries of The White House: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/865fd7d2-ac55-4162-a098-80fa99d458cb If you have any questions, I'll be happy to answer them - I mean, obviously there are not too many adults around building MOCs with DUPLO bricks, so don't hesitate to ask.
  4. Hi Appreciate this is about Lego Duplo rather than regular Lego, but hoping someone can help. Wondering if anyone knows if it's possible to (either) open up a Duplo push along train (or) remove a pair of wheels by separating them from their metal rod? Also could do with knowing if it's possible to separate the drive rod from the wheel it's attached to. It's this type of base: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=4580c07#T=S&O={} Reason is, I'm putting together a collection of adapted trains and need to swap colours around! Thanks for any help! I'll post pictures of what I've got so far if anyone is interested
  5. Hi Wondering if anyone knows if it's possible to (either) open up a Duplo push along train (or) remove a pair of wheels by separating them from their metal rod? Also could do with knowing if it's possible to separate the drive rod from the wheel it's attached to. It's this type of base: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=4580c07#T=S&O={} Reason is, I'm putting together a collection of adapted trains and need to swap colours around! Thanks for any help! I'll post pictures of what I've got so far if anyone is interested...
  6. [MOC] Realm of the Shrooms

    My ninth build for ABS Builder Challenge. This was another really fun build which I’m quite pleased with. The mushrooms themselves came together pretty quickly, and after that it was just a matter of making the surrounding landscape for them in which I was able to utilize a few of our Duplo foliage elements. Inspiration for the base goes to Legopard. More pictures on Brickbuilt Thanks for looking, C&C welcome
  7. hi, Please watch my lego duplo first truck video
  8. Hello, I have a small child - so it was great talking with LEGO DUPLO Designer Nadine Lee in Billund about all the new products. Best wishes Andres
  9. A friend has asked if I could get an old Duplo train working. It is the train from set 2741 or 2745. I managed eventually to remove the battery cover and put in new Duracell AA batteries but nothing happens when I press the red button on the top. It is in good condition - the contacts are not corroded. It looks very difficult to open it up and look at the actual motor. Does anyone have any advice on what could be the problem? Thanks
  10. I'm happy to present to you my first modular building. I have put it on Ideas too, so if you like it, please support: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/106103. edit: It is now available on Rebrickable Some time ago my daughter got this Duplo set from her aunt: http://brickset.com/...ative-Ice-Cream That got me thinking I could use one of these cones for my own purposes, especially since my little one was very interested in throwing bricks across the room, instead of proper play (or maybe that was proper play ;) ). Anyway I borrowed four bricks from her (I honestly intend to give those back to her) and thought it would be nice to make a big advert out of this ice cream and make it rotate. Such an Ice Cream Parlor should have nice clientele drawn by this big sign of what's inside :) So power functions was a must. But since I was to integrate PF info a modular, why not go further and add some lights too? When I was young (long time ago...) I always liked things that moved and had lights :P so you can call it late compensation :P Later on I will present it module by module, but if you want to have a quick look at it in action, here's a video: Ok, so let's start with a view of all the modules separately: And now let's talk about the ground floor: As you can see, on the right there is the ice cream parlor with seating available inside and at the back of the building. You can buy ice cream, lemonade, donuts and coffee. The staff is taken from the Ice Cream Machine set :) I'm happy with the bench - it gave me some headache, but I wanted to have something distinctive. The lamp is also different to typical one, but it's nothing special. On the left there is an entrance to the owner's apartment. There is also a small storage room for bike. The top of it is removable for easier access, but you can get the bike in and out through the door (but it's tricky). Ok, now - the heart of the modular - the Power Functions module: All electronic components are here. That is: 1 Rechargeable battery 2 switches 3 sets of PF lights (so 6 sources of lights total) 1 M motor Of course apart from that there are also all the technic components to make it work. The motor is running the Duplo brick with a 1:9 reduction. The lights are provided for the ice cream parlor (4 of them), entrance to the staircase (1) and the apartment (1 for the table lamp seen above). My idea was to be able to control lights and motor separately, that's why I have 2 switches here. Look closely at the picture above. There are two holes for technic axles above. The one on the left is for access to the switch controlling the motor (advert). The hole on the right allows access to the switch controlling all the lights. Those go on/off simultaneously. You can't have just part of them on. That would require even more switches and there is simply no room for that. It's crammed inside already. Now, have a look at the bottom of this module where all the lights can be seen and the front of this module, which allows access to the rechargeable battery in case you need to recharge it (power cord access). Through the holes in the front section you can turn the battery on/off and change the voltage too. Now, the last two modules are the roof and the apartment of the owner. It's not much room inside - the advert required quite some space already, but it's cosy :P As you have seen already this apartment get light from the lamp on the table, which is actually part of the Power Functions module. Yes, I know the TV is kind of useless on that wall, but... hey, he wanted a TV so I gave him one :P So, how do you operate this thing? With a KEY :) and last, but not least - two pictures of it with lights on, and ambient lights off: Full gallery is available on my Bicksafe: http://www.bricksafe...ce_Cream_Parlor I hope you enjoyed this little presentation. Please consider support on Ideas: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/106103
  11. When I was a child (a looong time ago), I dreamed of such cool trains. Today, we have created a railway section outside. And I think, the "my first train"-set 10507 and the older one, 5608, are both cool. I say that as a father and an AFOL. So, this is my little video:
  12. Hi all, I would like to share with you my new and first video (I'm working on another one) where I show how many different figures you can make from ONE BOX OF LEGO DUPLO. I think that this video it is a proof for that the LEGO DUPLO (LEGO) allows you to be creative! Check it out. I will hope you enjoy it! I'm waiting for your feedback. Best Regards Jakub
  13. My project with RC trains failed (I'll try few years later maybe again). But i managed to make another one :) My youngest kid is 3 years now and just love to play with duplo trains. There were 2 problems however. One is that trains are expensive. Second is that there is no rc trains... Here is recipe: 1. duplo train base 2. Spybotics module and RC 3. roborobo wheels 4. some technics parts 5. some more technics parts to connect motor to wheels: a) 3736, 3482, rubber band b) 3648, 4019, 24x3711 6. some bricks for weight 7. ?????? 8. PROFIT!!! I didn't found any suitable lego wheels in my inventory that have good friction with duplo wheels. Ones from RoboRobo set fit very well. If anyone come up with some better idea, lt me know, as now kids want to connect cargo cars. I recommend to use 5a as it simpler and provide softer start. 5b is faster. Trains have 2 speeds: slow when only one motor is working, and about 30% faster when both motors are working. It also works well with only one side powered. Trains could backward, and that is really helpful to avoid jams. Some bricks are used just to add weight to front, so train don't fall back at start. Problems: * they don't go uphill well, as train wheels are plastic, so not enough friction with track * with current setup it is not possible to connect cars at back as they hit wheels on turns * often got stuck on 2 sequential switches (placing curved or strait track bin between eliminate problem) There are many games that is fun to play. E.g. Place one train that go automatically forward, and everyone goals is to avoid it. For kids it is a bit challenging as they need to control train and change switches simultaneously. Here is short video:
  14. Not sure if anyone is interested, but apparently there's going to be a Lego Duplo animated short film featuring Jake and the Neverland Pirates on Sunday. I like how it has that semi-brickfilm style that The Lego Movie had. Is this the first Duplo TV special? http://youtu.be/YZmWZWVDwXg
  15. Over the years, I've seen several discussions about what a good price/piece ratio is for LEGO, and $0.10 (US) per brick/piece seems to be what most people consider the general rule for standard system LEGO. I haven't had any luck finding similar discussions or a general rule for DUPLO, though. I was wondering what the general consensus is, then. What do you consider a good price per brick ratio to be for DUPLO? Are there any resources to find sets that are a good value? Thanks for your help!
  16. Well, as I have many Duplos at home (I got a 2 yo kid which is a Lego enthusiast), when I want to "physically" build something, I use those, instead of LDD. Of course, the size and colors of the bricks tend to limit the results, but Duplo can also be useful to build something nice. These are starships I made for my little kid, and he enjoyed playing with them at least as much as I enjoyed building them (and it was much!). Frigate Cruiser Carrier/Battleship Does anyone else build something with Duplos for their toddlers?
  17. "Friendly" animals from Duplo

    My daughter is planning to make a zoo with her Friends animal polybag sets, and was thinking about what other, larger animals belonged in the zoo. She thought about brick-building animals, as in her set 4637. Digging in her toybox, however, she found her old Duplo animals from 4962, I think you'll agree that the scale, sculpting and printing of these animals is very "Friend"-ly. Something others may find useful.
  18. Hi there, I am new to this forum ... I recently acquired the bridge set 3774 (pre-owned), immediately I found the train does not go through the bridge, ie: stuck on both the incline as well as delcine1/2 on the bridge. In another word, it won't go thru. I had brand new battery and the wheels are clean free of dust or hair. Has anyone experience similar or any tricks and technique to make it run ?? Cheers ! -D
  19. Duplo Trains discussion

    After spending lots of time playing LEGO Duplo (mostly trains) with my kids and also building some larger layouts myself I got few questions regarding (mostly) design of Duplo tracks. I asked them at Polish LUGPol forum but some were not answered (it seems LEGO Duplo is not popular enough) so I’m reposting them here hoping for larger audience and thus better answers. I believe that LEGO parts (which includes Duplo tracks...) are done carefully and decisions are unlikely taken without evaluating many issues. So the radius used for curved tracks must have some reasons behind it. I don’t know which and I would very much like to know. Since I already know much of troubles caused by that choice. Read further. (1) Curved Tracks Radius A single Duplo curved track spans on a 30° angle. Three such tracks make a right angle. But the simple staff ends here. Ever tried to connect the ends of such right angle with Duplo bricks? It failed, didn’t it? You could actually make it but that would require to strain those tracks a bit (they are significantly flexible so it doesn’t require any strength nor does it seem to make any breaking risks). If you would do that with a hole circle of 12 curved tracks you would not get a circle but an ellipse with short radius of 17 Duplo studs and long radius of 18 Duplo studs. The actual radius of a circle is somewhere around 17.5 Duplo studs. It might be aligned with LEGO studs, I haven’t checked that but I doubt it. This might seem insignificant especially that the tracks are strained so little that it is not visible to someone who “doesn’t know”. But still this is some disadvantage that shows when you try to build something bigger or mount everything on a single solid base (possibly done with plates). Since the strains add up and things start to fall apart easily. (2) Curved Tracks Alignment to Straight Tracks So I looked further wondering to what the curved tracks align well. Sadly without success. Another failed example is when you connect two curved tracks in opposite direction. That way the lines entering and leaving the two tracks are parallel. Its tempting to see if you can mount it on a plate. But as it shows again it is not possible. Such a connection of tracks does not align well with Duplo studs (and thus also straight tracks...). (3) Long Trains In my experience a train having two or three railcars significantly slows down on longer curves. The cars are long and wheels don’t turn around in no way which means that the do no align well with curved track and cause some friction. With more railcars you can see how the train slows down and sometimes even hear that. With four or more railcars its nearly sure the train will stop on a longer curve. Would the curve track have a larger radius this issue would be (somewhat) smaller. Now knowing the drawbacks of current curved track design we might wonder what are its advantages so that the trade off goes well. Anyone? And this is still not end to the questions. (4) Move Direction Why current locomotives do move in only one direction? Would changing the button to a three state switch (forward, stop, backward) make it much more expensive? Or would it be much more difficult for kids? Current sets with locomotives are from 2 years. How it was with the old “smart locomotive”? As I think it was far more “difficult” and “complex”. (5) Locomotive Anchors I find it rather odd that (current) Duplo locomotives don’t have anchors on both sides as all railcars do. This way making the locomotive push the train rather than pull is rather difficult and likely to cause derailment when using more complex layouts (like ups and downs or junctions). (6) Corrugation (I’m not sure if this is the correct word for it) Tracks and the engine wheels of the locomotive are corrugated. Why is this needed? As it seems LEGO trains don’t use it. So why Duplo trains need it? Any “rational” for those? And as a final question. (7) Does LEGO provide precise specification of their “bricks”? Like exact dimensions and sizes or power of motors and so on?
  20. Here are the HR Images for the new Duplo Disney Plane sets all pics link to HR images +2000.pxl 10509 Dusty and Chug 10510 Ripslinger's Air Race 10511 Skipper's Flight School Enjoy! Item #10509 (Planes) $14.99 USD / $14.99 CAD 16 pieces Available August Item #10510 (Planes) $24.99 USD / $24.99 CAD 40 pieces Available August 10511 Skipper’s Flight School $39.99 USD / $39.99 CAD 53 pieces Available August 10512 Jake's Treasure Hunt 10513 Never Land Hideout 10514 Jake's Pirate Ship Bucky 10515 Aerial's Undersea Castle 10516 Aerial's Magical Boat Ride 10531 Mickey & Friends I don't have any other news to share at the moment or anything to add except for my continued disappointment at the lack of System Disney sets. Oh well, there's always the next wave... Dscuss!