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Found 537 results

  1. The classic 1967 Ford Eleanor GT500 was a fearsome beast in its day, with a 428 cubic inch big block rippling the pavement courtesy of an astounding 355 horsepower. It's also the car made famous as "Eleanor," Steve McQueen's awesome ride in the original 1974 movie Gone In Sixty Seconds. With so much heritage to this classic car, I knew this build had to reflect that hardcore stance and styling everyone grew to love. 1967 Eleanor Mustang- let’s drive by lachlan cameron, on Flickr In an attempt to stay true to the mechanics and design, I began with the classic live axle rear suspension and an inboard suspension style in the front with Ackerman steering and torsion bar. 1967 Eleanor Mustang- Chrome engine block, gold pistons, red chrome wheels - by lachlan cameron, on Flickr I threw my new red chrome rims on the car just for a quick photo with lots of bling :) 1967 Eleanor Mustang by lachlan cameron, on Flickr The car also sports front and rear headlights, motorized hood and trunk, 2 XL motors for drive, 1 servo motor for steering, 2 Buwizz batteries in the trunk, a chrome V8 engine block with gold pistons, working fan and blower, snap back doors. 1967 Eleanor Mustang by lachlan cameron, on Flickr I did try to follow the shape of the car closely, as you can see in the overlay below: 1967 Eleanor Mustang by lachlan cameron, on Flickr After so many new challenges on this car I'm fairly satisfied with the outcome. So sit back, grab a cuppa and check the video! And as always - a huge thanks to my brother @DugaldIC , @KD123 & @technic_addict for their support throughout this build.
  2. One BuWizz, it's good. But two, it's better, because you can make MOCs having 8 functions! I have already done a full RC compact excavator, but with LEGO IR receivers. I wanted do make another excavator without the gearbox allowing to choose between the rotation of the arm and the pneumatic pump. Furthermore, the M motors were just enough powerful to move the arm. On this new excavator, it's different. I tried to make the mecanic as compact as possible. And the arm is controlled with more powerful motors: 1 L and 1 XL. So now you can... dig on gravel with a GoPro attached on the arm, and the motors bear that easily! There is a good speed and so much power to do anything you want! For the design, I tried to cover the maximum and I kept a color scheme close to the one of my previous excavator. To switch on the BuWizz of the turret, you need to open the part behind the cab. The hood is also openable, but there is nothing interesting to see. ^^ So the functions are: -> Controlled by the bottom BuWizz: Left track (M motor) Right track (M motor) Blade (M motor) LEDs (of the cab and the arm) -> Controlled by the BuWizz of the turret: Turn table (L motor) 1st part of the arm (XL motor) 2nd part of the arm (L motor) Bucket (M motor) You have certainly noticed that there are shock absorbers. It's for the tension of the tracks. The LEDs: And the video! The BuWizz are in Fast mode and I used the app BrickController, done by @imurvai. It's perfect for this MOC!
  3. For the "Fast car competition" organized by BuWizz, I have done that: For this contest, you have to make a vehicle with suspensions, and do a video showing it doing at least one jump. Of course, the MOC must be powered by a BuWizz! For the steering, there is a servomotor. The driving is done by two L motors, with a 1:1.8 ratio. So the buggy has a correct speed, and enough torque to be driven on dirt, sand... It is fully suspended. The front is an ordinary system. But for the rear, I couldn't do independant suspensions (not enough compact) or a suspended axle (because as the motors are in the chassis, when you accelerate the axle tilts). So I done an "amost suspended axle". The liftarms thin 5L have an effect of anti roll-bar. I have tried to do a light design. Thus, the MOC weighs 460 grams.
  4. I' ve made a model of a Snowmobile. I've tried to make it as detailed as possible. Video: Functions: - Driven tracks (L motor) - Steered skids linked to handlebar with Ackermann geometry and positive caster angle (M motor) - Front double wishbone suspension - Realistic rear suspension Everything is controlled remotely using SBrick. Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. I hope you liked this model.
  5. UPDATE: Instructions & parts list are available at Rebrickable. Three years ago I made this forklift as a an alternative of the 42009 set. Ever since then I wanted to make a proper RC version of it. So here it is. Overall it is a better rendition of a generic heavy forklift. It is narrower, shorter and better scaled than its predecessor. You may criticize me for the lack of slopes and curves, but that's my building style - I always prefer sturdiness over beauty. There are 4 motorized classic functions: Movement (L-motor) Steering (servo) Mast extension (L-motor) Mast tilting (S-motor) Manual functions include sliding blades and openable doors. Here is an extremely short video demonstrating the model at work. Sadly, lack of gradual control over the motor's power makes it hard to move smoothly. So, what is your verdict?
  6. Hello to all. I present you my latest build. SCANIA R series Long Line. This model was build for the local exhibition, which was organized by Kocke Klub in Slowenia. It is build in the scale 1:22 Power Functions: 1 XL motor for Drive 1 Servo motor for steering 3 pairs of LED lights. And the video. Thanx for watching. With best regards, Valter
  7. This was supposed to be a Unimog 401 but things turned out a little different. some specs: Drive: XL motor geared 1:1 Steering: servo motor Openable doors etc It also has rear pendular suspension: And of course a belly-shot: I will make a video as soon as possible to prove its off-road performance. I hope you like it!
  8. So this is my latest tank. It is a development of my previous tank, the Blacktron Liberator. The Liberator is very fast and fun to play with, but it also has plenty of shortcomings. With this build I tried to eliminate those shortcomings and at the same time be a little more purist: the only non-LEGO item in this build is a Buwizz brick. However this tank is not controlled by the Buwizz app. Instead I've tested @imurvai's BrickController app with this MOC (see video). And that proved to be a very positive experience. Ever since I've been playing around with Sbricks and Buwizz bricks one thing (well more than one thing to be honest) has bothered me, and that is the lack of any physical feedback. When I am playing with a MOC I am usually looking at it, not at the app on my smartphone. And so it can easily happen that my fingers lose touch with the controls without meaning to. This is totally not an issue when using a gamepad :). The MOC is powered by 2 XL motors for drive and 2 M motors for rotation, elevation and shooting. Functions: - Working torsion-bar suspension - Shooting; - Driving; - Turret rotation; - Gun elevation; Very roomy tank for minifigs :) Of course I've also made a video: Hope you will like it!
  9. So this is my latest tank. It is a development of my previous tank, the Blacktron Liberator. The Liberator is very fast and fun to play with, but it also has plenty of shortcomings. With this build I tried to eliminate those shortcomings and at the same time be a little more purist: the only non-LEGO item in this build is a Buwizz brick. However this tank is not controlled by the Buwizz app. Instead I've tested @imurvai's BrickController app with this MOC (see video). And that proved to be a very positive experience. Ever since I've been playing around with Sbricks and Buwizz bricks one thing (well more than one thing to be honest) has bothered me, and that is the lack of any physical feedback. When I am playing with a MOC I am usually looking at it, not at the app on my smartphone. And so it can easily happen that my fingers lose touch with the controls without meaning to. This is totally not an issue when using a gamepad :). The MOC is powered by 2 XL motors for drive and 2 M motors for rotation, elevation and shooting. Functions: - Working torsion-bar suspension - Shooting; - Driving; - Turret rotation; - Gun elevation; Very roomy tank for minifigs :) Of course I've also made a video :) Hope you will like it!
  10. This is my very first MOC of a semi-tractor mini chassis. This RC chassis took two months of intense testing and it just 94 pieces (including PF devices) to create the best mini chassis and its mostly a simple design. This chassis will host to many of my future projects and I also created a couple of youtube videos to show off its performance and durability. Version 2.0 chassis includes center differential and suspension. This chassis it includes the following, 1/10 scale Chassis is just 94 pieces with a to create a no gear slip no tire slip thought in my design. very strong frame and durability Its very modular and basic form is 1 frame = 2 halves so both axles will have the same suspension, drive, steering, etc, etc . (I experimented with all types axles and color) (ver 2.0 120 pieces) RC build in mind (it can be used with lego's, sbrick, buwizz and lepin or even a custom rc controller) 67.8 x 34r balloon tires (Balloon tires have the best traction for all types of surfaces like sand,rocks, asphalt and excel on smooth shiny surfaces) 1 lx motor and 1 servo (you can add more motor) 2 way reverse Ackermann Steering (can be upgraded to 4 way) AWD Dual Gear drive train with 1:1.66 output with all time positraction (to reduce gear slippage) Simple suspension (1 l travel and very stiff) (ver 2.0 2 link suspension per axle 3 l travel) Fake disc brakes Fake engine (optional) Center differential (ver 2.0 only) Short wheel base with excellent handling Off road and street car capabilities built into the chassis I have included some pics and videos and will add more. it still a work in progress!! My first video is to show the performance and handling and the second video is a 5 minute off road test to show its durability and to show that I can build a reliable RC chassis. 2.0 version 2.0 version side view Version 1.7 this video is to show performance and handling this 5 min video is to show durability and I can build a kick butt RC chassis !! And yes both videos are the same chassis!! Please add your comments and if you have any question, please feel free to ask about my MOC. This chassis was a really interesting project and discovered a few things about Lego's color of their beams and lift arms. I did a search on this forum about color and weight and none has came up so I guess ill be the first to post this.. I discovered that not all beams and lift arms weigh the same.. Same with pins and axles. I know there are friction and friction less axles and connectors but what I discovered beams and lift arms also weight differently, For example: This dark gray weighs 1.726 grams and Red of the same shape weighs 1.68 grams!!! That is a difference 0.114 grams!! yes that small but with 94 pieces it can add weight , The more I use the red Lego bricks colors, the more lighter the model !!! I have weigh a lot of different parts and color but I don't have all colors and shapes. So far the red color bricks are the lightest in my collections and that means using red bricks will adds more performance !!!! yes you can pat me on my back for this discovery!!
  11. Lego RC E-100 super heavy tank by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr I have been busy with my latest model, the WWII German prototype vehicle E-100. This one being my second rendition of it since 4 years ago, when I started building MOCs. This one is smaller and greatly improved scale accuracy. more information and photos on my blog. http://tommystyrvoky.blogspot.com/2018/02/e-100-super-heavy-tank.html instructions https://www.rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-13061/TommyStyrvoky/rc-e-100-super-heavy-tank/#comments The process of rendering all of the animations for this video took some time, as I rendered all of this on my laptop, the end result, each frame requiring about 5 minutes at only 720p , and well there are a few thousand frames rendered for the animations, and I also completely redid my channel outro with the new PBR shaders from Meccabricks. Lego RC E-100 super heavy tank by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr And after all of that time rendering I realized that I forgot to include the second turret hatch... This is probably one of my most accurate vehicles so far, given the constraints of lego, and the mechanical challenges. Though I am still striving to do better in the future. Lego RC E-100 super heavy tank by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr and a comparison with blueprints from the real one. E-100 Blueprint overlay by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr
  12. Hey! Check out my Lego Boeing 737-600! Working: aileron, rudder, elevator, control column RC: flaps, slats, spoilers, landing gear, thrust reverser Length: 110 cm Wingspan: 125 cm Height: 40 cm Weight: 2,8 kg Video here:
  13. Hi everyone, Finally, I have finished a project which I was building since last September. It is the scale model of the Intrac 2011 snow blower which is/was often used in the swiss alps by the army and other communal parties. It was the aim to create another working snow blower after the success of the snow blower from last winter. The blower is powered by three buggy-motors which are all controlled by a separate Sbrick. Each track is driven by two PF XL motors. The snow blower shoot direction is controlled by two 9-volt micro motors and the height of the snow blower by one PF L motor. As power source I used two Buwizz as battery or a custom lipo battery. After a certain time in the cold I had the replace the Buwizz with the custom lipo battery. Cheers FT
  14. Once i wanted to make a baja truck, and i failed. though as you should do in life, i stood up and tried again. and suddenly, i had a frame. and a 'little' later i had a baja truck. fuctions: Full suspension: Front; double wishbone (travel: 1.5 studs) Rear: live axle (travel: 5 studs) RTC steering (Servo motor) RWD (XL-motor) Full RC I started making a front suspension which had to be soft and a good height clearance and RTC stearing. After a while i had a very sturdy stearing module, so i started making the rear axle.The XL motor is mounted on the live axle. it has a 1.66:1 which gives it a speed of 243.4 RPM and 8.7 N.cm. of torque. I used the short steering link to make the suspension freëer then used the 3X5 L links to connect to the springs. The battery is pretty high above the center of mass, but it doesn't affect the performance weardly. the IR receiver is possitioned just under the widnshield which makes it pretty easy to reach. The body is made out of 3 pieces, The bumper, a nose scoop and the rest of the body. the body is connected in 14 points to the chassis, the scoop only at 2 and the bumper in 6 places. I might do instructions on the chassis, but i don't know if i will on the body (only if enough demand). Greetz TNLD more pictures:https://flic.kr/s/aHskvfPA6Y LXF file of the chassis: http://www.mediafire.com/file/2w3uet74f11bamk/Baja_Truck.lxf
  15. Here's my replica MOC of 42056 set: Porsche 911 GT3 RS in medium scale You can see many references to original set design and the Power Function system. Check the video: The model has: - PF: 2L, Servo, IRv2, LiPo - Full independent suspension - Floating differential at the rear - Opening doors, bonnet, trunk - Adjustable seats. The car is a pleasure to drive: It is quite fast and manoeuvre. Building Instructions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-12532/paave/porsche-911-gt3-rs/
  16. Here's a MOC on which I'm working since the end of the previous summer! After I have done the video of my DS3, I had the idea to do a new chassis with 4 wheel drive. I thought it would not be possible, but the first prototype was better than my DS3! Actually the MOC is not finished. The stickers are missing, and I'm continuing to develop the chassis (I'm adding a 4th L motor) Actually there are 1 L for the front, and 2 L for the rear. The great advantage of the 4WD is that it can take a great angle while turning, but it's always controllable. But, that can have an inconvenient: the understeering. For that, I did the same thing on the real RC drift cars: I added a free wheel. So when I do not accelerate, the front wheels are not braked and the car does not understeer. You can see this video on this video, done for BuWizz with Charbel. But this is one. It's the same thing, but there is only my car. The final gymkhana will be for the next summer, because that requires a lot of time, and with the school, I have not enough time at another moment of the year.
  17. This is the first non-contest MOC that I have posted. It started out as @Madoca 1977's Baja Trophy Truck. I think I originally got as far as mounting the engine when I first started. As I only have the long shocks in soft, I decided I needed to redesign how the suspension worked. I also added all-wheel drive, which significantly complicated the front end. As well as kingpin inclination. I spent a good amount of time trying to get Ackermann geometry, but could not get anything sturdy. That was almost a year ago. I shelved this project. Then my wife got me the Porsche, Claas, and a second SBrick.. And this is the result. The main frame and roll cage are the most similar to Madoca's. Since I have taken these pictures, have redesigned how the battery boxes are mounted. They attach to the frame and sit much lower into the truck. It is possible to take off the bodywork and roll cage and drive. I redesigned the rear axle so that the power sent to the front was from both sides, so that one set of l-motors was not power 3 tires. There is still some clicking in the front, but only when not driven on a flat surface. I had to reduce the gear ratio to 1:1.667. The differential at the rear acts as an adder and sends power to the front differential, and fake engine. The rear wheels are still driven directly by one pair of motors, each. I could not figure out a way, without buying shocks, to suspend the rear axle on the smaller shocks and still have plenty of travel. Until I found some small springs in my junk drawer. I have no idea what their strength is, but they get the job done. At full compression and fully turned, the front tires will touch the body. The body itself comes off in 4 pieces: each side, roof/hood, and front bumper. More pictures can be found in my Brickshelf folder at: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=571486 I will leave you with my favorite picture
  18. Ce set est fait pour etre en RC ! pour le LXF : part 22921 = part 27940 ! - 1 moteur L - 1 servomoteur - 1 batterie AAA - 1 récepteur infrarouge
  19. The 2017 Ford GT is effectively a GTE race car converted to road use. After the 2016 race car won at Le Mans, exactly 50 years after Ford's historic win with the GT40, they had to build some road cars for homologation purposes. These road cars have a 3.5-litre twin-turbo Ecoboost V6 producing 647 horsepower, and an extreme amount of downforce from the active rear wing, diffusers, front splitter and those gigantic flying buttresses on the sides. The interior is sparse to reduce weight. The initial allocation sold for around $500,000 each, and Ford received more than 5,000 applications for 500 cars. Getting hold of a car is extremely difficult, and even those who are successful must wait for several years to receive their car. The recent incident of Ford announcing that they would sue John Cena for selling his car (supposedly for profit) and breaking the terms of the contract is a testament to how sought-after this car is. After several months of rather intermittent building, I've finally finished what turned out to be a prime example of how not to manage a project. Anyhow, at least the car is finished so I can get to work on building something I'll hopefully enjoy more... Initially, I planned for this to be a fast RC vehicle, using every single motor that I own. That meant three EV3 Large motors, a PF XL and a PF L for drive, an EV3 Medium for the gearbox and a PF M for the steering. However, as I chased the GT's distinctive styling, the car got heavier, more fragile and closer to the ground. In the end, the car would barely move in anything other than 1st gear, and it would scrape its bodywork on the ground. That's what happens when you change tack mid-way though a build. However, at least I think I can call this my best-looking car model to date. The car has a 4-speed sequential gearbox mounted behind the rear axle to save space and take advantage of the car's huge overhangs. There is no suspension to reduce complexity and because the model is a little too narrow for an independent driven axle to fit. All the motors in the drivetrain are hard-coupled together (yes, I know it's a little naughty, but the gear ratios are closely matched and the stresses put on them by this are probably dwarfed by the load caused by driving the car uphill). The steered axle is extremely simple with just a little return-to-center mechanism. This is in order to leave enough space for the PF battery box under the bonnet. There was just about enough room to have a convincing-looking cabin and seats, although it is considerably smaller (compared to the size of the whole car) than in real life. The rear wing is mounted on a scissor lift system to raise or lower it - there wasn't much space over the gearbox so I had to resort to using those ugly yellow beams. The doors are hinged about the A-pillars in order to give that characteristic motion, opening both upwards and outwards. An elastic band puts some tension on the mechanism and keeps the door either in the closed or in the open position. Styling-wise, the Ford GT is quite a challenging car, but at least it is more angular than curved. I did my best to focus on the characteristic features: the two big vents on the bonnet, the giant side vents and flying buttresses, the red circular brake lights and the carbon sill running along the length of the sides, part of which lifts up with the doors. I don't have that many pieces, so I had to do a few colour-mismatches, but I tried to keep to the grey theme. In the end, the car is easily-recogniseable as a GT, and that's what counts to me. Here is a video showing pictures of the car and a time-lapse of building. Unfortunately there's no driving footage (it would be pretty underwhelming anyway), but you can see the opening of the doors and raising of the rear wing. Music is composed by me as usual. My next build will be what this one failed to be: an incredibly fast RC car. This time, I'm going for minimal bodywork and no gearbox.
  20. I've been a bit inactive on Eurobricks the past couple of weeks (partly due to making instructions for @Aventador2004's excavator, and making a MOC for a competition), so I thought I'd share a little tank I made to test the gamepad support that was recently added to the SBrick app: (which by the way, is awesome!) I used a 3rd-party Lipo battery to power the SBrick, which was placed between the two L-motors, and connected to the SBrick via a custom adapter cable: (the red thing in the photo below is part of it) It's quite a fun little thing to drive, and is nice and quick too: Some more photos:
  21. Hi, As a winter project I'm working on a 4WD RC buggy. It will be heavily inspired by @agrof's Class 1 Ultimate Buggy, for I very much like the behaviour and the looks of that model. With this model I will also deliver to my promise to @DugaldIC to make an RC model. I was planning on finishing this MOC without a WIP topic, but I simply can't work without the feedback . It will have 4 L-motors and 1 servo motor. No buggy motors, for I will be using current-date parts only. Control will be done with SBrick. Sofar I have been working on the axles. The rear axles are very much inspired by agrof's model, but this time everything relies on perfect fits. They rely on the Pythagorean triple (5,12,13). The front axles are my very own addition to this model: 2 L-motors are integrated in the double-wishbone setup. Making everything rely on perfect fits, is one of my main challenges. The second challenge is to make everything relevant form-locked. And of course the model needs to perform. All wheel hubs are turn-table/u-joint based: Sofar I have only been designing digitally, but I did check the most essential constructions in real life already. I will show progress when ever I have something to show. If you have any comments, feel free to reply. I'm new to motorized building so I can use some feedback.
  22. I' ve made a scale model of this russian all terrain vehicle. I've tried to make it as detailed as possible. Video: Functions: - 4x4 driveshaft with differentials (XL motor) - Steering: brakes that block wheels on one side of the vehicle. (M motor) - Working differential lock (M motor) - Working LEDs - Tires from 42054 - Openable front and rear hatches and windscreen, working wipers Everything is controlled remotely using SBrick. The drivetrain with differentials and portal axles: The steering mechanism is, I think, more interesting. Wheels on one side of the vehicle may be blocked using the driving ring. Than differentials transmits all the power to wheels on the other side. (that red connector represents driving ring) And the differential lock. The driving ring connects right and left differential outputs. And photos of side without wheels and the underside: Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. I hope you liked this model.
  23. «Mad Max for kids». I’d like to present a truck, named ‘Beast’, from the old Australian TV series ‘Thunderstone’ - XL for drive - Servo for steering - LED to lighten the cube + PF switch - LiPo for power - IR-receiver for remote control - Opening doors, trailer roof - Turning radar That's how the original one looks:
  24. This is my Volvo fh16 750 rc moc. The main goal was to create a huge 1:10 scale model with less funktions but very strong and fast for this size. the propulsion from lego dirt crusher is fixed long side and the batterybox is in the front
  25. Here is my attempt to miniaturize the 42065 set. I wanted to make it as small as i could and take the main features of the 42065, a set i do not own myself, but i might pick one up to compare. Since the rubber caterpillar tracks suited this scale perfectly they where on my "must haves" list, a simple bogie gives it the correct stance and track tension. In the next image you can see the chassis and bodywork opened up, it is powered by a small AAA battery box, receiver and 2 L-motors, it is fun to drive and stops for nothing! Now i was hoping on some feedback on the paneling, i have not made a lot of bodywork with panels before and was hoping to get some suggestions and/or tips and tricks! Of course any other suggestion or comment is welcomed as well!