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Found 56 results

  1. For the "Fast car competition" organized by BuWizz, I have done that: For this contest, you have to make a vehicle with suspensions, and do a video showing it doing at least one jump. Of course, the MOC must be powered by a BuWizz! For the steering, there is a servomotor. The driving is done by two L motors, with a 1:1.8 ratio. So the buggy has a correct speed, and enough torque to be driven on dirt, sand... It is fully suspended. The front is an ordinary system. But for the rear, I couldn't do independant suspensions (not enough compact) or a suspended axle (because as the motors are in the chassis, when you accelerate the axle tilts). So I done an "amost suspended axle". The liftarms thin 5L have an effect of anti roll-bar. I have tried to do a light design. Thus, the MOC weighs 460 grams.
  2. badgerboy

    LEGO ReBrick Contests

    I couldn't find a dedicated thread, so please feel free to move this comment to the appropriate thread if I have failed in my extensive search to find the correct thread to post this in. If there isn't one, may I suggest this as a general but official LEGO contests thread? Therefore, please feel free to add an appropriate pinned comment regarding this topic's remit... certainly something better worded anyway. To my issue/point/problem... I have been trying to upload an entry to one of LEGO ReBrick's contests all day. I've tried on my iPad and my old Kindle Fire. My four image files are easily below the largest file threshold, in fact, the combined size of my four images is below 2Mb. I'm adding only three tags as outlined and have tried with and without spaces after the commas. Each time I manage to press submit after the preview I get the error message that "oops!" I need to check my file sizes or my tags. Has anyone else experienced similar problems or have any advice? I've alerted the admin in a comment that will get moderated in 1-2 working days but I'm feeling a bit impatient and wondered if anyone else was experiencing difficulties and therefore confirming the problem being LEGO's website and not my hardware.
  3. Hi all, We are announcing the BuWizz fast car COMPETITION! 1. Build a LEGO fast car with BuWizz, 2. Record a stunning video 3. Upload the video to: 4. Win compelling prizes: 1st place: LEGO Technic 42083 Bugatti Chiron 2nd place: 2x BuWizz 3rd place: 1x BuWizz RULES: Deadline for video submission: Mar 31 2018 24:00 PST Public voting for best videos starts Apr 1 2018 0:00 PST, ends Apr 15 2018 24:00 PST 10 best videos enter the finals; winner will be selected by 3 person jury (members TBA) and announced on Apr 25 2018 You can compete or vote for your favorite videos and help Competitors to the second round. Let the GAMES begin BuWizz Team
  4. Hi all, We are organizing a BuWizz Truck Trial event weekend with family picnic on june 9 - 10 You are all invited! More info here:
  5. Letters Cliff-Top copter is great for scouting out routes through the jungle or flying short distances across lakes or foothills. His toolbox has everything he needs including a nice selection of sandwiches! Lester has stopped here to enjoy the view from above a valley and perform some routine maintenance.
  6. This is my entry for BuWizz Fast Car competition. Features: - RWD with differential - Front independent suspension with positive castor - Rear live-axle suspension with long trailing arms - RC/Buggy motor for propulsion - Servo-motor for steering - BuWizz 2.0 I wanted to make a fast and agile car that will provide some real "turbo" experience of driving. The appearance is much inspired by BJ Baldwin's trophy truck. I recorded video in the last days of March, when we still had a lot of snow and it was a bit of luck to find some clean place to make video. I am still learning how to make good videos and this was a nice experience. If you like my entry, you are welcome to vote:)
  7. LEGO Masters, a television show in which teams of contestants have their building and creative skills pitted against each other starts tomorrow (24 August 2017) at 8pm on Channel 4 (with repeats 27 August at 11.05pm and 29 August at 1.15am). Guest presenters include Richard Osman, Bill Bailey and Dara O'Briain. Can we assume they're AFOLs? Here's the trailer. And here's the press release. Apologies if this has been mentioned on the EB boards already. I had a look but didn't see anything.
  8. Here's my entry model for the TC13 competition: It was inspired by the real life Tesla roadster 2 both aesthetically and mechanically. The model uses 3 pullback motors in the following configuration: As you can see the rear two pullback motors power the wheel directly for best possible acceleration. BUT the front pullback motor is geared up. This additonal gearing gives the model a higher top speed and a greater range, which is a technique I have yet to see on any other pullback cars. Around 30 panels were used to give the car it's very smooth, organic shape. Notice the small yellow rubber band used to keep the front part tightly together: There is enough room in the back of the cabin to fit two or three small human beings: The rear boasts a difusor and a small spoiler in the back, just like the real thing: While this is one of my smalles models to date, I am very pleased with how it turned out. The shapes are very smooth and organic and the fact the car drives mere milimeters above ground, give it a very sporty feeling. Video coming as soon as I find enough space to run it
  9. Hello Eurobricks AFOLs, I am Engine and this is my first post here on EB forum. My friend HorcikDesigns told me, some of you here want to know more about my last MOC. My pleassure! Original Vehicle: As some of you noticed, my MOC should be scale model of Ghe-o Rescue. It is a Romanian rescue vehicle designed for extreme terrain, with a capacity of up to 11 people. Dimensions are: 5.2 m length; 2.7 m width (even wider version exists); 2.4 m higth (without rooftop carrier). The weight is 3.2 tons. Under the bonnet, more engine types can be monted, with the most powerful one with 500 hp. Live axles are used for suspension, both equipted by lockable differentials. There are also built-in water tanks for 620 liters for fire extinguishing. Another specialty is the possibility to mount tracks to rear wheels or pneumatic "pillows" on wheels for floating on water. Tires are also special. It is Arctictrans 1300x700-24 (diameter 1300 mm and width 700 mm). The manufacturer shows off an independent test in which they won over Avtoros and Trecol manufacturers. Here you can see several cars built on them. And because the tire diameter and width exactly match the 1:16 scale to the LEGO "Tumbler" tires Ø81.6x44, the scale of the model was decided. So far I do not know any other LEGO cration of Ghe-o Rescue. MOC: The MOC was designed for Trophy Competition, organized by our technic race event guru Peter. And the task was to build a drivable, remote-controlled, off-road vehicle that would be able to travel about 3 km. And at the same time, it should be as beautiful as possible and with design matches to original vehicles. Terrible task. The dimensions of the model are: 332 x 168 x 168 mm (41.5 x 21 x 21 studs), weight 1.2 kg. The drive is permanently 4x4 without differentials. Axles are not sprung. But thanks to the torsionally soft frame of the vehicle, decent axle crossing is achieved (some LEGO trial experience here). Inside, there is a functional winch with a length of 2.5 m. Good lighting is a necessity for the expedition special. The control is provided by sBrick. The propulsion is made by 1 x PF XL motor with a total gear ratio of 1: 1. Schizophrenic steering is provided by the PF Servo. The winch is driven by a PF M motor via a worm gear (8: 1 ratio). Five pairs of PF lights really shine in front of the car. Electrical source is a battery box with 6 AA batteries. The whole MOC is pure LEGO exept of: sBrick receiver, high strength thread as winch rope, threaded cardans and event mandatory stickers. Drive ability: Drivig speed corresponds to a pleasant walk. Off-road capabilities were adequate to the track. Tire traction did not limit offroad capabilities, but a small power of e-motor did. Then the winch becomes useful, that is able to lift the entire weight of the vehicle. And if it was still not enough, the other "competitors" were there to help. A minor issue was the steering. Thanks to the loose in steering mechanism and occasional insensivity in the mobile app, sometimes I sent it out of the way. A major issue was energy consumption. Within 1.5 km, I drained out three sets of batteries (2x alkaline GP Ultra Plus, 1x rechargeable GP 2700). And yet I do not know how to solve it. But most likely it is caused by PF Servo motor, as we disscussed after the event with other partipiciants. ----- Thank you for comments and questions. Pictures are here in my gallery. Original post on
  10. I know I'm late to the party, but I had this idea for a few weeks already and did some tests, and yesterday I had time to start building on the real version. I think it's wacky enough to partipicate, although the "wacky function" is not the most original, I admit. There's no drive, just rolling, and there's no suspension. It's fully manual. It can roll (no drive, no fake engine whatsoever); and it can steer all eight bogies simultaniously. This means the vehicle doesn't "turn", the body keeps always facing the same way, but the wheels turn so it can drive anywhere it wants. There's also no "steering radius" - it can turn on the spot, which of course is an advantage in the race. Obviously, the top part (where the driver sits) turns the same way as the wheels. The "wacky function", as you may have guessed from the springs you see behind the seat, is an ejector seat. Launching the driver forward gives a tiny advantage for the last few meters before the finish (assuming the winner is the driver who crosses the line first). And of course, it's a nice way to leave the vehicle quick and clean (how to enter the vehicle, I don't know). I don't want to make this thing much more complicated, so I will be adding a nice cabin, and I will decide on a color scheme (I have some ideas already), make it a bit more sturdy and add a few details here and there, and that's pretty much it. It sounds doable to finish this before the deadline.
  11. I was watching some of the E-races on youtube ad thought to myself, why not have competitions like that too. Just like the trial trucks, but with the focus on being speed and handling. Here are the basic rules I'd propose use either 2XL, 3L or 4M motors for drive, no RC motors allowed use any Lego battery box, the Li-Po is lighter, but has lower voltage, while the new AA battery boxes have no current limit use of Sbrick is allowed since it only controls the model the model can use a third function like a gearbox, or even a spring-powered boost mechanis, as long as it does not power the car directly use of pre-2005 bricks is not allowed to keep things modern and fair What do you guys think? Anyone wanna try it? Few more ideas: size limit - all cars should be approximately at the same size paneling - cars should be properly covered with panels, bare chassis is not allowed
  12. What is the Summer Joust? The Summer Joust is a castle contest with 6 different categories that is open May 1st-June 30th 2017. The contest is hosted on Flickr in a dedicated contest group. This year there are prizes for 1st and 2nd in all categories (excepting the team category), as well as 3 individual awards.
  13. I guess it's time to share my works for TC11. To be honest, I started building almost on day 1, so this means I tried out a lot of things that didn't work, and that I won't show all. Anyhow. So, my first plan didn't work because it didn't fit the box (remember the diagonal question? It was a long thin design.) Secondly, I didn't want to do a spinner. A spinner seemed boring to me. I wanted to do something bit more technical. A lifter? A slammer? I built a lot of (non-functional) battlebots back in the studded age, when I was still a nerdy teen, but I don't have those photos anymore (which is a shame). A few bots I do still remember, so I chose a design from those that I always liked. The concept is this: So, it's a "horizontal dual hammer" bot. I think there are very few horizontal slammers, and I think it's cool. The original was named "Wimbledoom" because it had a flat top with some sort of a stadium with two figs and a tennis net (white fence) and some minifig audience. So let's use that as a working title for now (even though the tennis theme won't return) The idea is that there will be some sort of force built up and then released to slam the hammers forward into an enemy that's in between. The high speeds and sharp ends of the hammer will damage the enemy. Then, a slow return mechanism should bring the hammers back in their original positions. So, how to build up force? The frist thing I thought was "wprings are too weak, I want something better" and I was thinking about a flywheel approach, where a motor tries to let a wheel spin really fast and then somehow make a sudden connection with the weapon. This idea got quite far: The idea was that the orange axles move the gear racks so the green gears mesh with the red gears. If slid back, it meshes with the blue gears, which would be the return mechanism. It didn't work. It had far from enough force, and most energy was lost to the drive train anyway. I tried mechanisms with fewer gears (and using tires as gears) but they all didn't work. So I went back to the idea I originally rejected: Springs. These are all long springs I have except for some black ones from a motorbike set. As if it was meant, the dark-gray ones are half as strong as the other ones, which are about equal. Which means this is the perfect spring: As energy is distance times force, this spring, with a distance of 6 studs and a force of two 8466 springs, should store quite some energy (remember, this is the suspension from three large sets added together). So, now the hammer itself. Of course, this is a mock-up. It needs to be strengthened with plates and tiles, because, well... one particular piece didn't survive a test version... (it was already slightly damaged) OK, so I needed a mechanism to rotate the hammer about 180 degrees (preferably slightly more), and a frame to hold it. For the frame, I learned: if it needs to be strong, make it triangular. This is not exactly Pythagoras correct, because the straight sides are 7^2 + 24^2 = 625, where the diagonal is 25^2 + 1^2 = 626 (due to the 2x2 corner plates at the pointy end), but this difference is so small that noone will notice. To rotate the hammer more than 180 degrees, you can't just attach the spring to the hammer directly - you need a system of beams to amplify the motion in some way. This was a long puzzle and I eventually came up with (the red axle is where the spring will attach) The idea is that this is one half of the bot. It will eventually look like so: which gives plenty of space in the center for PF material and a drive system for some wheels. Doubling the frame gives which, as you can see, stays in place without me having to hold it, so it has an automatic locking mechanism due to the geometry of the beams (it locks over center). Moving the yellow part a little makes it blast away with quite some force. I'm happy! Dimensions of this unit so far: Width 17 (which is half, so width will be 35 or so) Depth 34 Height 8 Well within the limits. Next challenges are: fitting some drive mechanism, finding a way to trigger the mechanism, and maybe most importantly, building the return mechanism (which is where the 40t gears come in).
  14. Hi everyone, First off, I'll do a little introduction. Even though I've been a member for many years I've mainly just lurked in the shadows, probably because I've felt I don't have the time to build or the expertise to make a contribution. But there was something about this competition that has me really excited, and so far I've followed all of the participants closely. Then at the weekend when the first entries started being posted, I thought "what the heck, why not". So (if I manage to complete within the VERY short time frame I've allowed myself) this will be my first MOC in nearly six years and my first ever posted to this forum! I've been building for just four days now, but nevertheless, meet Mr Cuddles. The drive is already working, except I haven't worked out where the IR receivers are going yet. It is very dense and compact; a total of 15 box frames so far! The ground clearance is less that 0.5 studs to protect it from flipper bots. I eventually hope for it to have two large pincers/claws on the front, powered by the LAs, to grip the opponent. This is where the name Mr Cuddles comes from. Then when they are caught and can't escape, a hammer mounted on the top will smash them from above. Wish me luck!
  15. Hello everyone! Just finished my batllebot - Black Egyptian! Before building the bot, I thought - what can inspire me? And thought came to the Egyptian pyramids - they stood for centuries, therefore, they were built very competently. The shape of the pyramid is attractive to me, so I decided to embody it in my future battlebot. All I had for this bot was a few motors, a battery box and a SBrick. I wanted the battlebot to be mobile, but it could also bring significant destructions, so I made the upper part of the pyramid detachable in order to cause powerful hits. The destructive effect of the hit is also enhanced by the fact that the entire impact force is applied to the small edge of the pyramid, and not to a large area, as in the case of a simple hammer. The robot's design is very solid, its wheels are hidden deep inside, like the power button, which is a great advantage in the combat. Specifications: Dimensions: 25 x 25 x 25 studs; Drive - 2 XL-motors; Hit mechanism - 1 M-motor; Power supply - 1 battery box; Remote control - 1 SBrick. ---------------------------------- UPDATE #1: In accordance with the recommendations of the moderators, I edited the main demonstration video (cut off the ending, the original version is still available on the Youtube channel). Also, according to the proposals of the forum members, I played with the gears in the chassis - a pair of 12- and 20-teeth gears is not reliable, but a pair of two 4-teeth is reliable enough (you can see it in the video below). The bot's speed became slightly higher. Also, at last two balls from the Mindstorms series arrived to me. I planned to use them as supports, but they lift the bot a few millimeters more than necessary, because of what the wheels just spin in the air. A more precise adjustment of these supports will take a long time and lead to a total redesign of the model. So I will not put them into the construction. UPDATE #2: I finally edited the main video and replaced the 20- and 12-teeth gears with 4-teeth gears for greater reliability and speed: ----------------------------------
  16. KrazeMagazine

    Lego City Police Station Unbox and Review

    Hi LEGO fans, I'm from Kraze Magazine! We've recently recorded a fun un box and review video of the awesome new LEGO City Police station set! Check it out on the Kraze YouTube page by clicking HERE - it would be great to hear what you think! We're also giving away three LEGO City Police Stations! So make sure you go and buy Kraze Magazine Issue 65 which is in shops in the UK on 29th March 2017!
  17. Hello, everyone! I'm proud to invite Eurobricks members to Jeep-trial competition, that will be held in Moscow at November 12-13 by Lego Technic Russia community ( If you are ready to visit Moscow those days, we are waiting for you! Build the offroader, run it through obstacles as fast and accurate as you can and win Lego Technic sets! Also it is wonderful possibility to meet Russian Eurobricks members (RM8, desert752, filsawgood - they are main organizers of the event) and many other talented builders from all over the Russia and another countries. Of course, we will help you to set accommodation in Moscow and we will do our best to make sure you are enjoying visiting Moscow and participating in competition. Please, contact me as soon as possible in PM or post in this topic if you are going to come to Moscow and participate. I've chosen this forum to post, because it seems to me that here it is more likely to catch as many Technic builders as it possible. Specially for Eurobricks forum I have translated rules of competition into English from Russian. My native language is Russian so mistakes are possible. Please, feel free to ask any question if something is not clear to you. Theme of competition is Jeep-trial. You need to build an offroader and drive it through number of obstacles as faster as you can with minimum penalty scores. Competition will be held in two categories: TROPHY and TRIAL. TPOPHY offroader should have open differentials. TRIAL offroader might not have differentials at all. General rules: Your model should be AWD offroader built in Lego Technic style. Trucks are not allowed. Only cars, buggies, pickups and vehicles that are based on these. Suspension is obligatory. Tanks and other vehicles that is not a car in an original form are not allowed. Appearance, type of body, colour, tuning is chosen at your discretion. You can use models that were built and published by you before or you can use suitable chassis and elements of chassis designer by other authors. In a case you use other author’s chassis completely, you should mention author of chassis in the entry. IMPORTANT: Bodywork of your model should be exclusively your design, copying the bodywork of other authors is prohibited. Electrics and remote control are obligatory. No more than 1 XL-motor or 2 L-motor or 3 M-motor can be used for propulsion. SBricks are allowed. Only original Lego battery blocks are allowed. RC-block and buggy-motors are prohibited. Mechanism and configuration of steering are not regulated. Tank steering is prohibited. Only steering knuckles like in real autos. Non-Lego parts are prohibited excluding the cases described in rules. Any modification of Lego parts is prohibited including stretching tires and wearing them on non-suitable rims. U-joint can be strengthen with string. Original and self-made stickers are allowed if only they do not cover two and more parts. Self-made canopies for bodywork or roof from paper or textile are allowed. Winches are prohibited. Model should have a steering wheel and driver seat. Scale of model should allow to fit the Technic figure inside the interior (figure is not obligatory). Rules of TROPHY category: All axles of offroader should have open differentials. All type of differential locking and imitations of differential locking is prohibited. Only front axle can be steered. Maximum diameter of wheels is 69 mm, minimum is 62 mm. Non-Lego tires are prohibited. Offroader should have one of the following wheel formula: 4x4 or 6x6. Do not forget the 3.1 paragraph of Rules. Width of axles should be no more than 16 studs. Width is calculated between the points of rims’ connection to the axle. Width of standard wheel hub is calculated as 2.5 stud, width of portal wheel hub – 4.5 stud. Offroader should have tow hitch. Tow hitch should be made using one of these part: or Tow hitch should be attached to the rear overhang and can be detachable for better crawling possibilities. Rules of TRIAL category: Differentials are not obligatory. Maximum diameter of wheels is 81.6 mm, minimum is 62 mm. Non-original tires are allowed as they meet 5.2 paragraph of the Rules. Offroader should have one of the following wheel formula: 4x4 or 6x6. Do not forget the 3.1 paragraph of Rules. Width of axles should be no more than 18 studs. Width is calculated between the points of rims’ connection to the axle. Width of standard wheel hub is calculated as 2.5 stud, width of portal wheel hub – 4.5 stud. One participant can entry with 2 models if only they are in different categories and in case of winning in two categories participant will get prize only for highest place. Photos and description of entry should be posted in special topic ( or in this topic with copying the entry in PM to me. Every entry should be consisted of: Name, surname of participant. Age. Name of offroader. Category of offroader. Description of offroader, including description of additional functions (if they exist). No more than 10 photos of offroader can be attached. Also in another day, before or after the main competition, we will have some fun races on small models. Rules of races are simple: only one L-motor for propulsion with M-motor or Servo for steering and wheel diameter should be between 30mm and 43mm. I will post detailed rules of race after they are approved by organizers.
  18. Hello All, Today I am presenting my WIP Pneumatic Car Transporter. I hope to build a truck like this one: I hope to include: HOG steering a working V6 engine opening doors many pneumatically raised and lowered (platforms?) Here is what I have in LDD so far, and IRL the body is almost complete. Please tell me what you think of it so far. Thank you!
  19. Hello, I’s been a long time ago Since I presented something here so it’s time to change it Few months ago there were a competition on our local LugPol forum where the goal was to remake a Technic set made before 2000 into studless model. I decided to take on workshop 8858 Rebel Wrecker. Beside my creation there were other two Rebels submitted. You can check all participants here: After all my remake of 8858 won in the category of more than 200, but less than 500 pieces. I have to say that it is not so easy to recreate a set into studless version. I told myself to keep all important points where things like suspension are mounded in the same place as in original set. So almost all dimensions stayed unchanged (e.g wheelbase, hood length, etc.) The main difference between original and my version is width. Old sets had even number of studs in wide, nowadays it’s an odd number. So my Rebel is 1 stud wider. When it comes to overall appearance I tried to make it as close as possible to the original but stay into modern style using liftarms instead of plates and bricks. Of course I had to change some kind of colours so for example Light Gray is replaced by LBG. One thing that I keep unchanged is front steering system. Yes, the small gear rack is present but for example 8048 which was released few years ago still has the same solution so I think that it’s fine to use it as well. Of course functionality of the model is the same as studfull, so working V6 engine and self locking rear winch is present. I am quite happy about this model. I made everything as I wanted, everything works, it took a first place so what to want more Below there is a video, and link to BS gallery. http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=561705 Greetings, Patrick.
  20. darkwomble

    Lego Robot Wars

    I know that Lego Robot Wars has been enacted in the past, by one or two people from what I have seen, but is there enough interest in the UK for me or someone else to organise a small competition? There is enough local interest (Gloucester area) to build an arena and get some competitors together and I just wondered if anyone else would fancy joining in? We've drafted some rules, mostly to do with weight, size and obeying the ref, and so I'm just putting the idea out there for others.
  21. Hello All, Today I present my entry to the Porsche contest on rebrick. I am waiting on a Bricklink order to improve this model's aesthetics and then I will post better images. The model has: Steering Front and rear spoilers An interior Roll bars Fake brake calipers, and a working mini V8 engine . NEW: The engine is now a flat 6 and the doors open. There is more coming soon... Thanks for reading, and have a great day!
  22. About 5 years ago, rumours were around hinting at a new supercar positioned between the 911 and 918 Spyder. Some dubbed it the "914.5", coming from the mean of the two model numbers. Unfortunately, such a car hasn't yet arrived, and I plan to solve that problem. This will be the true "Dream Porsche", taking features from both the 918 Spyder and the 911 Targa. It will combine the hybrid all-wheel drive and 4-wheel steering of the 918 with the iconic rear-mounted flat-6 engine and roof of the Targa. Here are my definite features: Flat-6 engine mounted in rear 8-speed paddle-shifting manual gearbox (connected to piston engine, driving rear) Fake electric motors "driving" the front and rear (as in the 918) Full independent suspension with camber angle, castor angle and adjustable ride-height (independent adjustment for each wheel). Not sure where the ride-height controls will be - probably under the front hood. 4-wheel steering (as in the 918) operated by the steering wheel. Opening hood and locking doors. 2 seats inside. Folding roof modelling the 911 Targa's mechanism. Here are features that I might add if I have enough space and parts: Brakes - not sure how these would be operated if they get added. A PF Large motor and battery box to drive the front axle. Like the 918, the front is single-speed. Unfortunately, the only RC stuff I have is MINDSTORMS, which would be too bulky for this. Opening rear revealing the engine. The car will be 1:10 scale - considerably smaller than the 911 GT3 RS from LEGO. I haven't started building yet - I still need to add a couple of finishing touches on my current build. However, most of the "technologies" (such as an 8-speed gearbox and adjustable suspension) already exist in my current build, so this will likely be finished by mid-July. UPDATE 1 (03/07/2016): Paddle-shifting mechanism and steering wheel mount Having dismantled my previous build, I have built this compact steering wheel mount with an integrated paddle shifter. The two levers on either side of the steering wheela are paddle-shifters. They shift when pushed inwards. Here is a side view: Each paddle makes a lever move downwards and hit the cross-shaped element. I initially used a knob wheel, but it was too small for the lever to make it advance far enough. When the lever extends, the cross rotates about 75 degrees before the lever blocks it from going any further. When the paddle is released, the lever retracts and allows the cross to rotate the final 15 degrees. The paddles have rubber bands to make them return to their original position when released. The part with the wedge-belt wheels can slide a short distance. It too has rubber bands - this makes the cross "snap" to the nearest 90 degrees and provides the turning force for the final 15 degrees of rotation. There is also a universal joint - this is connected to the steering wheel.
  23. For the past two months I've been building my entry for the Enforces vs. Bandits competition, and it has finally arrived! Enforcers - Valuable Transport My source of inspiration is an actual valuable transport truck that I once saw driving over the Dutch highways: which led me to think: how cool would it be to hide some sort of advanced weaponry in there and have it fold open? First I thought about folding open the container, but in the end it's the entire truck that folds open. Also, the weapons I envisioned were different from what they have become, but the main idea is still there. So, the specs: Manual functions First of all, three of the four axles have steering. The third axle is idle, but has double tyres. I used the same steering linkage as D3K did in his Midi-scale pneumatic crane truck (with his permission), but I reinforced it, sacrificing some ground clearance. Another feature is that the doors of the cabin can open. Electric functions The truck houses the normal battery box driving an M motor. This drives a gearbox that operates three functions: transformation rotating the turrets raising/lowering the guns Transformation Getting the transformation to work was the biggest challenge. The entire sides of the truck are panels that are hinged at the bottom. Via a worm gear system they are deployed outwards. Also, the seats will rotate so that they face the weaponry, so that the driver can operate them. Because of the weight of the side panels, transforming back into transport mode takes well over a minute... Armament In battle mode, the truck shows two turrets carrying two guns, having three bullets each (making the total ammo 12). Via the gearbox the turrets can rotate together, and the guns can be raised. A spring-loaded mechanism is used to shoot. No specialized parts have been used, except the standard dark-gray 9.5L springs from set 8880. Shooting is done manually by rotating the knob wheels. The bullets are white 1x5 beams. Here's a computer image of all the functions. And, of course, the video.
  24. Well, I've had this thing in a good state of WIP for some time, so I may as well share it. I'm really motivated right now, because of the fact that I missed out on pretty much every competition between TC5 and now. I came close to entering TC6, but didn't enter TC7 due to lack of motivation, and same thing for TC8. So, I am back, with a vengeance. My entry is a five axle truck. Its loosely based on my [TRIPLE] contest entry, or at least the truck part, but this model is an improvement in every way. The steering works better, the engine works better, and now the chassis sports a lift axle. That middle part was quite difficult to design, but I ultimately got it right, after 3 revisions. The two rear axles drive a fake six cylinder engine, which works far better than the old truck with its V8. The steering, as I mentioned, has been dramatically improved. It still uses Ackerman correction, but the actuation is accomplished by levers and Pitman arms versus the complicated and difficult to use gearbox and racks of the old truck. Getting the two axles to turn at different angles was quite a difficult process, but I found a solution that is robust and simple, after about 4 revisions and a few hours of frustrated facepalming. The truck is not quite finished, but when it is, the chassis will be the same for both A and B models. This solution, I feel, is a bit more suited for this competition than having to rebuild the whole model. Instead, part of the model will be rebuilt, in the form of two attachments to the truck, using the same parts; This is similar to how 8421 works. One module will be an Effer style knuckle boom crane, with the other one being... something else. In spite of appearances, the truck does fit in a bounding box 15x13x48 studs, resulting in a volume of 9,360 cubic studs. The only exception is the steering axle, which will be shortened. The fenders are also not final, and will be changed. The truck in the bounding box: Inabox by Saberwing007, on Flickr The truck: Truck by Saberwing007, on Flickr Lift Axle in action. The lift is controlled by the 12z gear ahead of the axle. Lift Axle by Saberwing007, on Flickr Maximum steering lock. Steering by Saberwing007, on Flickr There will be more to come, as the cab, and then the crane are added.
  25. As some of you may know LEGO is running a Technic Building Competition with Mercedes-Benz. I was looking forward to participate and it took me a while to understand what future truck would look like. Initial idea of building truck driven by both front and back axles was quite simple to implement. Two L-motors have been used for that. Steering is performed by Servo motor and truck is controlled remotely. Fun fact - chassis without aerodynamic cover is somewhat reversible and can be used up side down. Final model is very sturdy thanks to slick and strong body. Unfortunately, due to selected width rear axle is somewhat less reliable and has gear grinding upon start but drives normally afterwards. This is something wasn't possible to completely solve having double wheels per each side. [/url] Below you can check my vision of a truck in year 2045: Few more pictures can be found on my Flickr Stats: 2 L-motors for propulsion Servo motor for steering Small non-rechargeable battery box 44 studs long 17 studs wide 24 studs tall weights 1098g. no suspension