Marxpek

Eurobricks Citizen
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About Marxpek

  • Rank
    Thought he was a real cop
  • Birthday 10/01/1984

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    Technic

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    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6lf0Jsv6JPuukJ5OHLv3qg

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    Male
  • Interests
    Lego Technic, Lego RC, Lego MOC, Lego speed record

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    The Netherlands
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  1. So i found some time to take some detailed pictures (yet i didn't find the time to clean up the ripsaw, so please ignore the sand...) I have also tried to run this with just 4 motors (while leaving the other 4 in the setup) the motors struggled to a bit, i think the drag from the other 4 idle motors is a bit too much, i will have to do a decent conversion before a can say anything useful about a 4 motor version. I will update this later.
  2. Thanks all, glad you like it! I wouldn't know, i started out with 8 motors, the point was to have torque to spare, always, but 4 might be fun to drive as well. but: Yes this could easily be built with 4 motors, just replace the front motors and build some bracket for the sprockets in stead, I have no idea about the power left then, i will soon try to run it on just 4 motors and 2 buwizz (with the extra motors as drag) and see what happens. There are not a lot more picture at the moment, when i have a bit more time on my hands i make some and post them here. No building instructions at the moment, maybe if the demand is high and i have a good 4 motor conversion. If someone else is curious what "EV1" stands for: Extreme Vehicle One. All i could find on the EV1 where some old videos and this from renderhub, it was my main lead in the build actually: https://www.renderhub.com/dmitriykotliar/ripsaw-ev1 The frame holds fine, in some rare occasions the front wedge can get a bit loose (check the end of the video driving off a high curb, front comes loose there), In the video you see it fall off a steep slope, just minor damage. The tracks are the biggest issue, when they get dirty they do not run as smoothly and then they sometimes run off the sprocket, or even break open. Also sharp turns at high speed with some good grip might pull off the tracks as well. You are right in a way, but It is not the middle bending up, it's the outsides of the frame with the buggy motors that are getting pulled down a bit by the tracks, honestly, it could use a bit more reinforcement which i might do, but it never gave issues. Again, thanks, I'll be back with more detailed pictures and a update on 4 motor drive soon, hopefully.
  3. This is my attempt at building a proper and most importantly; fun to drive ripsaw with somewhat realistic performance. The 8 buggy motors and 4 BuWizz seem to do the trick.. I tried to replicate as much as i could from the original design, obviously the drive-train works differently; the real EV1 has 1 motor with a clutch system in the rear differential to power the tracks from the rear alone, which i did try to replicate by adding the fake V8 and rear diff, which does function, but i disconnect it most of the time while drive outside because it has a habit of getting jammed by leaves, rocks and twigs, the gears used to connect to the fake V8 are all exposed. Here the sprockets are powered in the front and rear and each is connected directly to the slower output of 2 buggy motors, giving this thing crazy speed and torque. The suspension is set up like the real EV1 and works fine, but does require a track tension system, the real thing has a suspended front sprocket to keep tension on the tracks, in this case it would mean loosely suspended buggy motors, an idea i did not like and did not try, yet. I am using a simple lever, spring and wheels to keep tension on the track but it works fine and looks ok. For the body i tried to capture the look and feel of the real thing, using as little as possible panels and using beams for the boxy look with just the exposed framework seemed the right thing to do, i am sure it is filled with illegal connections, i go by the rule: "if it fits without force, it fits". The body is surprisingly solid, it can be lifted from several positions and it can take some abuse from driving, and abused it, i have.. The are 2 seat for Technic figures and the electrical wiring functions nicely as a seat-belt for them. I have added 2 sets of LED's on the top bar, i do not think the real EV1 had that, but it seemed the most "natural" position to me and it works nicely since they are aimed down a bit. And here you can see it in action! please leave a like if you can and help out my tiny channel: I hope you like it!
  4. Marxpek

    RC Buggy Motor

    So i made a review/comparison video for this motor. It is a rather long and slow video, but it has timestamps in the description. I hope it helps you to decide whether this is the motor for you or not. It did surprise me in some cases.
  5. 4: 10 3: 6 5: 4 13: 3 8: 2 15: 1 Amazing competition! Well done everyone!
  6. 6. "Paper" Plane - A17 This is my entry, a functioning glider made from Lego. A fully static build with just 39 parts, it may not appear complex, but a lot of thought and testing went into this project, it took 17 rebuilds of the frame and wing positions to get to this design, what i loved about this project was the fact that i had to venture into unknown building techniques, as well as building as light as possible, it resulted in several never before seen connections (to me at least). It does take a bit of practice and tweaking to get good flight results, like any paper plane; small adjustments can have a big impact on the flight characteristics, but once you get the feel for the plane it goes pretty well. for further details you can visit my thread here: I hope you like it! I have had tons of fun testing this concept!
  7. 3 weeks of silence in the thread, so here is an update: I managed to find a enclosed entry to a parking lot/shopping mall where no one comes if you go on Sundays before 10 am, did that twice. I was also lucky enough to get a freezing, but nearly wind-still day to try outside and the results are better than i had expected. The video is done and out on my YT channel, i also did a cartoony little intro just to spice it up a bit, i hope you like it! And for those who do not want to get spoiled: i called it the Lego "paper" plane - A17, A stands for initial 2 designs i started with and 17 is the number different frame builds i have tried, how inspiring.. I know.. you might notice the plane got a little bit heavier, i ended up putting a bit more weight to the front of the plane, preventing stalls when throwing it "harder than gentle" I still need to make better pictures for it, plenty of time for that. More later.
  8. you are the romantic type, aren't you? Paper planes rarely fly solo, so.. more importantly: this will help me tweak and compare flight characteristics, and will make shooting video easier (less walking back and forth..) The search for a suitable location to throw these is still ongoing...It is not easy to find a big empty indoor space where they allow you to play around for a few hours with some cameras it seems.. but i am sure i will find something in the end. More later.
  9. Look who is sharp today! I was already wondering who would comment on the antique scale in the picture, glad i could count on you , this was a little joke of course, so here is the actual picture of the new scale and the plane seems i lost 0.01 grams compared to yesterday (or air pressure is a bit lower today, or perhaps a small fluctuation in the space-time continuum, or I just simply misread it yesterday..)
  10. So finally my new scale arrived! and after redesigning i can report the current and final design weights in at a whopping 28.39 grams, which is about 4.5 gram lighter than it was before the redesign (3rd frame from above on 2nd pic): I have been experimenting with a flex-hose frame, which helps a lot with the weight, i have tested several designs, also designs i did not get a picture off sadly, one of those was a frame built only from flex hoses but this was way to flexible so it was rejected right away, here are a few other frame designs i have rejected: Most designs had a regular axle in the front and a flex hose at the rear for reduced weight, and this seems to be the answer to my COG issues, reducing the weight in general, but more importantly, the rear. So here i would like to present the final design: With this setup i am able to set the wings in several positions, changing the flight characteristics, getting a feel for how the wings should be positioned is vital, but i am getting better at it. This setup also increases the dihedral angle of the wings, since i have lowered the COG with the rear wing mounts, increasing stability. The plane seems to be balanced nearly perfect with the current frame. I will replace the few brown pneumatic connectors for grey ones and i think i will build a few of these planes to make it easier to shoot a video. More later.
  11. Wishing you all the best for 2019, here is a silly video i made for new-years eve, stay safe, do not try this at home.. it is not too great for your bricks... May You and all you friends and family live in health and happiness and may all your bricks sort themselves in 2019! Best regards Marx.
  12. "Here i was. proudly wearing the plastic badge the sheriff gave me, thinking i was a real cop"
  13. Sorry i missed your post at first.. I have tried this setup earlier on since I also thought it was lighter, but the connector can rotate on the central axle (even when clamping it between serrated bushes) making the wings flap about loosing all stability. and i agree that making it lighter is not the main goal, balance is indeed, however decreasing the weight will make it glide further and longer, planes are built as light as possible for a reason, to make better use out of it's thrust, go further on a drop of kerosene or in my case: go further on a single throw. After the weight reduction the re-balancing is up again.
  14. Thank you!, i realize this build does not look very impressive because of its simplicity, but in practice making it really glide is a bit of a task, a task I've really grown to love! I tried to fiddle with that part, but i did not find a way to make it fully symmetrical with that, the whole issue is the single axle frame, the connectors cannot be on the same place, obviously.. so i would have to flip one of them over to make the weight distribution evenly on left and right, but then the weight would (be ever so slightly) more to the front on one side and more to the rear on the other, just like my previous picture, if you had another idea how to use this part i would love to hear. however i found another symmetrical and even lighter solution with this setup, using an ancient half-plate, it does slightly increase the drag tho, there is always a con it seems.. more later..
  15. I have considered this, but the total is at 32 grams now according to my kitchen scale (goes by the gram), so every gram lost or missed by the scale is a 3% weight difference at the moment, quite substantial, when i weigh a subsytem of a few pieces they tend to be only a few grams or not measureable with my kitchen scale, the scale i ordered should be able to weight per 0.01 grams, bricklink data shows 0.1 grams for a lot small parts, something i do not trust. And since these scales aren't that badly priced and the wife might be able to use it for measuring spices to make me better meals, so i just ordered one to be sure and make my life easier, not having to eyeball or calculate weights from (inaccurate?) bricklink data. in the meanwhile i did come up with a way to replace the connectors from the post i made earlier today, using the pneumatic T-piece: I think it is a bit lighter by design (from eyeballing it), but it is not symmetrical, something i do not like, something i do like about this is the fact it gives me the possibility to adjust the rear wing a bit more, the half-bushes should be replaced with the stud with open top. more later