Marxpek

Eurobricks Citizen
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About Marxpek

  • Birthday 10/01/1984

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    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6lf0Jsv6JPuukJ5OHLv3qg

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    Male
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    Lego Technic, Lego RC, Lego MOC, Lego speed record

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    The Netherlands
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  1. I have tried to fit another sail in between, but it just looks off, way too big, and it is sort of hanging without support, only the biggest sail can be used if you want to support the top and it would need more weight in the rear, but all seems fixed when i tried this: This my dear friend, was a stroke of genius! Simple and highly effective, thanks for that! Like Seasider mentioned the vertical plane could be better for a more stable flight, but your idea solved this as well, i was able to to throw it a good 5-6 meters into my couch (that's about how far i can get from it now, damn you Christmas tree!) for a few times, despite the still not perfectly shaped wing , on top of that: a little weight reduction as well! Here is how the rear looks now: Next step is to curl back one of the sets of wings, I will roll them up tonight and leave them like that until the weekend, fingers crossed.
  2. Thanks for the feedback everyone! I will continue with model A, it looks and performs better, so it is an easy pick in the end. Observant forum readers might have seen my request to use my DIY pneumatic container, which got denied, so i have been thinking about launching this.. but considering my DIY air container was a modded fire-extinguisher, it is probably a good thing it got denied, it would have blown this thing into pieces and destroy the sails. I also considered a winch system, a pulley system and a system using the thin tracks, but after throwing the plane i am getting doubts whether a launcher would be effective, you need quite a delicate throw to make it glide and at the moment the plane itself gets priority, the balance on the plane is a bit tricky, one big other issue is the fact the sails want to curl up a bit, giving a nice wing shape on one side, but the other side does not want to sit really well as it is arched opposing to how it wants to curl up. If anyone has some advice on how to curl these sails the other way, i would love to hear, i was considering rolling them up and leave them for a few days in that position, but i have no idea if it will do anything at all. I've made some small changes, the front 10L "bumper axles" are now separated so they allow the sails in between, before there was a little stress on the sails because they could not go in between: There is also a bit of additional weight in the front because the rear got a bit heavier, it was needed for balance, i will reduce the weight more, that will also require a re-balancing, so until the design is final i will not spend too much time on balancing. The rear now has a few connectors making it possible to make small adjustments to the wing's positions, before there was a unsupported bar holding the wings down. The old setup performed fine, but was no part of the frame and held together by the connection holed in the sails, something i do not really like, i do not want to tear them and impacting the ground after being thrown is always a risk on damage i think. If the added weight turn out to be a big issue i might still use the old system, but for now i like the way i can fine tune the wings positions. more later..
  3. This is something i was already eager to try before this competition, but never actually ordered the sails.. but tonight a bricklink package arrived with the 42074 race yacht sails. Here is the idea: make a functioning glider looking somewhat like a paper plane. This is what i did for now: Model A: Model B: Both models can actually glide (short indoor couch tests..) when you throw them with a little bit of force, I tend to expand the A model since it has a the bigger wings compared to the weight of the subframe, but i do like the simplicity of the single wing plane. The long axles with the connectors allow to slide the center of gravity back and forth, something i will play with a bit later to balance them out for longer flights, the frame will most likely become fully black for least visibility. Please let me know what you think and what model you like best!
  4. Fun stuff!, i will try to enter, sadly i DNF last TC.. @Jim I might be pushing the boundaries here but: are DIY (non-lego) air tanks allowed?
  5. @Zerobricks i have opened it on my phone yes. Samsung s7.
  6. @Zerobricks I would be glad to provide feedback. But the link does not let me download it. It says i need an invitation or need to be logged in to the correct account.
  7. Thanks! I will be looking forward to your new attempt to break the record!
  8. Hey everyone, This summer I've spent most of my spare time trying to break @kbalage his BuWizz speed record, i can say that it was a lot harder than i had expected even with the upgraded V2.0 The design took a few different forms, mostly because almost every run ended with a crash and thus a rebuild, replacing broken parts and making slight improvements, but those where all minor variations, the basic design stayed the same. I am not that happy with the fragile front-end and winter is coming, this means no more time to test further and the time has come to publish the results, next summer will bring a new design which will be more sturdy and more powerful, i hope..(surviving a 40km/h+ crash is not really achievable anyway..) I started out with the setup i have been using in my 100% Lego speed records, low to the ground, lightweight, 2,5:1 gear ratio and a minimal amount of "moving axle to pinhole" friction. This setup has never failed me and it hasn't in this project either. The biggest problem was losing the connection, this happened in 2 ways, on range,I cannot run that fast, cycling works but it is very dangerous to do while being overtaken by a speeding piece of Lego which you also have to steer. But most disconnections happened because of the current protection kicking in when i accelerated too fast, I really had to accelerate gradually starting in the fast mode, then throttle down, swap to ludicrous mode and accelerate gradually again, making steering adjustments in the meanwhile if needed, all while running or riding the bike, very, very hard to do. That is why i am sure this can go even faster, i just never managed to make it happen. It was the hardest speed record i have attempted yet, but it was great fun to do! I hope you like it, suggestions and tips for the next racer are always welcomed!
  9. Hey @Hobbythom The micro-motor is pretty weak and slow, it might be able to hoist small loads when geared down, but it will be very slow, the motor shaft is just a stud, giving very little friction, the part that connects the shaft (stud) to an axle has a built in rubber, so it can slip in case of stalling (these motors burn up easily since they do not have any current protection and are easily overloaded) If it is usable depends on how small of a load you are planning. And Yes, that batterybox can power the 2838 motor.
  10. Thanks to everyone who voted and thanks to Zerobricks and the BuWizz team for creating this contest. I am amazed and very happy with the results!
  11. Marxpek

    BR51-761-5 (Octrainber 2018)

    I love this classic style, very well executed build, looks very clean and detailed!
  12. Marxpek

    SBrick General Discussion

    @Seasider i have both for some time now and here is my 2 cents: The app for the sbrick is way better and versatile, programmable sequence buttons, built in controller connectivity, stuff like that, the buwizz app only allows you to add, remove or move sliders and buttons. but the brickcontroller app imurvai created can help the buwizz slightly in this department. The 2nd big difference is the battery of course, if you want to build small and fast, the buwizz is the answer, with the s-brick you will use a extension wire and a battery box. Using the battery box has some pros and con's compared to the buwizz, most battery boxes are limited at around 800mah meaning the sbrick cannot exceed this limit (the sbrick can easily handle it but the battery box is the bottleneck here) so fully powering a buggy motor without the lower voltage Lego LiPo is out of the question for example. The buwizz has no such issue with the built in battery, but it does have an issue with the current limiter tripping to easily at standing starts with high loads. Also a concern of mine is: How long will the built in battery last, or at least remain usable, the sbrick has the advantage here. In the end i enjoy the buwizz the most, because is just that much more powerful than any battery box can provide, including the Lego LiPo because of the lower voltage. If you are looking for the best BT experience go sbrick, if you are looking for the best RC experience, go buwizz.
  13. @Touc4nx moving them should be done by holding and dragging, tapping it will ask if you want to delete it. I just tried it here (samsung s7) and it works fine here.
  14. Thanks for these kind words! @Zerobricks do you happen to know if it is possible to see other entries at the moment?