Marxpek

Eurobricks Citizen
  • Content count

    259
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About Marxpek

  • Birthday 10/01/84

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  • Website URL
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6lf0Jsv6JPuukJ5OHLv3qg

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Lego Technic, Lego RC, Lego MOC, Lego speed record

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  • Country
    The Netherlands
  1. Same story here, tried it and dumped it. I very much like the KERS-system, but i wont be any help in our quest for 40km/h+, the pullbacks do not add any energy here, even worse; they take away energy from the motor and we need every little bit.. it helps with acceleration, but not with top speed. However, maybe the ratchet release system can work for a booster unit at the start for our racers, but it still does not help with top speed, just acceleration, but we always like a shorter track, less time to crash on a shorter track :o
  2. 100% certain. The grey ones always where grey and non shiny and it clearly is no wear but a different type of rubber. The grey ones are also the newest. The 42036 set is the last set made that uses these tires. So the softer grey is the new version i guess.
  3. The grey ones i had are from a 42036 set i bought myself. So those are fairly new.
  4. looks like you have the black, yours have a bit of a shine to them in the pictures and they look black to me. I have no idea, maybe ask the seller? But i doubt many people are aware of this difference..
  5. here is a small update: correct! did not work... crashed twice, gave up the steering setup, but turned it around and drove the other way with relatively decent results, but i did not dare to go full speed on a inverted caster setup. so i had to redesign the front again to brace the wheel properly and give it the correct caster. I also found what could be a game changer on my part, i found that there are 2 different types of rubber used in the 94.2 motorcycle tires, hard black ones and a bit softer grey ones. The grey ones were the ones I used all the time, but i think the harder black ones I just received via bricklink have more potential, since they don't show any ballooning at all, the grey ones did, at max rpm without load. So now there are 2 black tire for drive and a grey tire for steering in the front. You can clearly see the difference in the photos here, the black ones also have a bit of a shine to them, the grey ones do not, but the grey ones do seem to have a bit more traction, but i think the harder black tires will run better because they have less "bounce" to them. pictures: Do i dare to keep the gps computer there? it sits perfectly there, but it is very close the the ground... Steering relies on caster and a return to center spring, which in this case is also the (only) pivot point on the frame, the wheelbracket houses the wheel, and can only move half a beam width right or left. Steering is very limited now but can be easily changed to give it a slightly smaller turning radius. It now weights 1075 gram total, maybe i'll add the bucket again to see if it creates lift :D And of course as always, terrible weather, but i'll be running outside once i get the chance.. with high hopes as always!
  6. O man.. this sucks.. i recall me writing this as one of the most likely things to break first, sad to see it happened to you man... maybe you can glue a tiny piece of wood in place for the tabs?
  7. to compensate for this; the steering movement is so little that under 15 km/h you barely notice it steering, but it will have to prove itself over 30 km/h yet (i have done a 25 km/h+ test run in the street with this setup but with the motorcross tire in the rear) i saw that ramp in one of your videos i think, it is a play ramp for pullback cars? seems a bit to big, but i guess it is very light? but worth a try, would at least to be fun/easy to compare results on a car, the bucket also acts as a bumper here, protecting the rc unit in a frontal crash, i do not think i dare to drive it without the bucket, since the rc will be fully exposed in the front without it.
  8. So it has been a while since there was an update, here is what has been changed. - running on 3 motorcycle 94.2mm tires now. - 2 driven front wheels - caster steering setup in the rear - weight reduction, totaling 1083 gram including speed computer. - more narrow and aerodynamic design Some pictures: This racer is the longest design yet but it still is only 1083 grams as shown on the pictures, the rear steering setup is still based on caster, the steering was made for small corrections and besides the caster helping it to return to center, there is also a "hockey-spring" installed to give more stable steering. The more narrow and more aerodynamic design should also help a bit. For now the gearing remains 1:3 from the slow output, which i might change again soon, but i want to test and compare this to the small steering wheels setup from earlier ("just 36.2" with that). And that is where the story ends for now: waiting for a good day with some spare time to do some test runs, as always: high hopes!
  9. @TechnicSummse Looking good! maybe a bit wide. I have not had a lot of time on the forum lately, but i have been doing some development, i'll try to post some today. Looking forward to your results! (weather remains bad here..)
  10. Future MOCs

    This is something i had in mind a while back, a Hinowa LightLift, jam-packed with functions and a nice technical challenge i think, i just lack the parts to make it at the moment. Maybe someone likes to try it?
  11. Top speed General disscusion

    It is always worth a try, have fun!
  12. Top speed General disscusion

    I have been experimenting a bit with these pullbacks earlier, they are fun but do not expect miracles from them, 2 of the newest version can work great with 62mm wheels, but they will have problems with anything larger, they do not have the torque, more motors will get more torque of course, fun project but it has some limitations, but to find the limit within these limitations is another great challenge!
  13. [AMS-1] Voting (Finally)

    1. MangaNOID 2. LXF 3. ZBLJ This was great fun! great entries and exiting idea's!
  14. My setup does not require one on a perfect track, it will self-center without a return to center spring purely from it caster setup, without any wobble at high speed. (35+) Just when i hit a rock or something, the center position is found way faster, making it easier to steer, so the return to center spring helps, but i can work just as well without (on a perfect track)
  15. I tried it for the exact same reason, but i never tested it since i found them too wobbly: Well i decided to not test them because i do not own a lot of these diffs and these are the only ones that work well on a 90 degree angle and a linear mesh, so i wanted to save these diffs, but i must admit i never suspected this result. I have some of these turntables z56 lying around, i already started with the idea before i mentioned it in this topic, (that's why i sayd: don't tell me.. i was doing the same at that very moment ;D) but the gear will become at least 3 studs wide and i will need a rebuild for that. Did you get the 36t gears? im a bit let down by the results with the 36-12 gearing.. my old 40-16 seems better. Btw do you think we should use the slow output at all? effectively we are using a extra set of (loaded) gears in the system.