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About TheMindGarage

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    Piano, trumpet, car design and of course LEGO.


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  1. It really depends on how many motors you're planning to use. LEGO say that one battery box will run 2 XL motors (more for smaller motors). If you try to exceed a battery box's maximum current, overload protection will kick in so they won't run at full power. However, in most cases you can get away with one battery box. The most important thing to do to strengthen your drivetrain is to sandwich your gears between two beams. This means they have no way of slipping. If there is one part of your drivetrain that is particularly delicate, you can gear up before it and down after it to reduce the amount of torque passing through it, but this increases friction so only do this as a last resort.
  2. There are way to use other programming languages - I've heard of leJOS but I think that uses Java. Under the Advanced tab, there should be a "Raw Sensor Value" block. I've never tried it since I don't have a NXT, but that might get you something. You'll have to do all the behind-the-scenes stuff (converting the raw value to something meaningful, then doing all the "wait until xxx happens" stuff that's normally handled by the sensor blocks).
  3. Looks incredible! I'm not convinced LEGO will be able to make the 42083 match this...
  4. What program are you using to control the motors? And what ports are the motors plugged into?
  5. The very first tanks were parallelogram-shaped. This helped them cross the WWI trenches. That said, they often had no suspension, so they had a habit of knocking out the crew due to the impacts.
  6. Awesome! I like the diagonal panels on the sides - they almost look F1-inspired.
  7. My usual process: Choose tyre size (for road cars, I almost always use the biggest I have - the 68.8x36 ZRs) Calculate dimensions Decide on functions Fudge dimensions if necessary (for example, a car that is supposed to be 23 studs wide may be bumped up to 25 to fit driven independent suspension, with length and width increased appropriately). This can also be done to exaggerate certain features of the real car if you wish - just keep it within reason. Build the most mechanically-dense components (usually gearbox and suspension), keeping in mind the position and shape of motors. I prefer to build in real-life, and I will often go through dozens of gearbox designs before settling on one. Build a "rail chassis" consisting of the front axle, rear axle, drivetrain and a pair of rails (usually 5 studs apart to fit O or H frames between them) connecting everything. Now is a good time to test any electronics. Some bodywork may be done at this stage, especially if it is structurally important. After that I usually build from the front to the back, adding any manual functions (doors etc) as I go.
  8. Nice idea, but I'm not sold on the suspension axles. With only one universal joint, the camber will change considerably as the suspension moves, and because the drivetrain joint isn't aligned with the suspension's joints, won't the wheel shaft slide in and out as the suspension compresses? I like the drivetrain though - am I right in thinking each motor powers one side of the car?
  9. Maybe it's something to do with the direction of rotation of the two crankshafts? If the two crankshafts are rotating in the same direction, because of the symmetry of the engine, one bank will experience different rocking forces to the other.
  10. Ingenious! Looks great and runs well - only criticism is that the inner banks of cylinders seem to vibrate quite a lot since they're only supported by the 157.5 connectors.
  11. Looks cool, even if it harms performance. I wonder if it'd be able to spin its wheels if you put some PF in there.
  12. TheMindGarage

    Dominator TRS

    Very interesting gearbox. Do you think adding a reverse gear is possible?
  13. So far, I've improved the suspension (about 2 studs travel) and fitted 4WD. When I finish my current MOC I think I'll take out the V6 and put an XL motor in there.
  14. Unless you build your suspension extremely well, it is probably more likely to break than a vehicle with no suspension whatsoever. If you only need to absorb shock (ie no side-to-side movement), you might want to consider a simple hinge or a sturdy floating axle.
  15. TheMindGarage

    [TC13] IAERO 1800+

    Looks amazing! It's like a cross between an Ariel Atom and a 1980s F1 car.