deehtha

Eurobricks Citizen
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About deehtha

  • Birthday 12/27/1981

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    Technic

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    Columbus, Ohio, USA

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  1. deehtha

    Technic Pub

    As long as the cute bunnies take me to the next unread post in a thread, bunny on. That button seems to have disappeared. I'm using chrome on Android 7. Haven't check my desktop yet Edit: more info, the button is invisible.
  2. Here is a version of @Paul Boratko's 4 speed that I added an automatic lock to the central diff. The differential should lock in 1st gear. Blue is shifter input, yellow is drive input, and red is drive output. The orange wheels are the new orange selector. The yellow 12 tooth gears are the new extension ring. For some reason LDD would not let me mate the old style extension with the differential. It would also only let me use the white gear shifter connectors with ridges on the shifter, I could not use the red ones without ridges. The shifter input can come from either side. 1
  3. deehtha

    Generic Contest Discussion

    I've got 2 ideas for contests. 1: An ultimately playable contest - Start with either a midsize or smaller set, like the Rally Car, and improve it without changing it too much. Like the Porsche and Bugatti mods and improvements threads. Could also start by building a basic 4 or 5 function sub 1000 piece vehicle. That way you don't end up with 5 versions of 8081 with many of @Thirdwigg's mods. The exterior shouldn't change too much, we don't want a pimp-my-ride. I would say a color change would be okay. Someone may want to build both models and display them side by side. 2: A contest with a point limit. Build whatever you want within the point limit. Pieces could be assigned a value based on weight, volume, or price. A basic set of 300 - 400 technic pieces with value would be posted at the start. Once assigned a value, it doesnt change, but moderators could add pieces as they see fit. Since pieces change weight and value based on color, I would not make separate point values by color (a red #3 connector should have the same value as a black #3).I would set the max point value so that most entries would be in the 400 - 600 piece range.
  4. deehtha

    Single crank W16 engine

    I built this engine. It does run smooth. I connected an M motor with a band and a pulley. The engine itself could use some reinforcement. I had a hard time keeping it square. The crankshaft seems 1/4 m too short.
  5. deehtha

    Generic Contest Discussion

    I like #2. #3 is too broad, maybe if it was restricted to size or part count. Or not allowed to use certain parts (no friction pins would certainly be interesting)
  6. deehtha

    Axle Collection Thread

    The hub itself feels fairly solid, but, there is nothing keeping the 8 tooth gear from sliding. The control arms are not parallel either, so they cannot be braced closer to the hub end. This hub is also as floppy as the standard Lego hubs, so there is no advantage there. The hub was more of a "see if I can" than anything. It is a lot of complication for hardly any change in the gear reduction, and reducing the width by 1 stud.
  7. deehtha

    Axle Collection Thread

    After watching @Didumos69 build his Greyhound buggy, I wanted to see if it was possible to build a portal hub based off of his turntable hubs. This is my result. I have built it in real-life. The entire hub is inclined to get the control arm mount points and the drive axle as lined up as possible. This only fits in the large rims with the 6 pin hole pattern. The 107 mm Claas tires, the 94.8 mm truck tires and balloon tires, and the 68.8 x 36 ZR tires all fit. The pink assembly is only for the 94.8 mm truck tires, it stabilizes the wheels. It isn't necessary. The blue assembly is just a mockup to show how it could fit. There is a little bit of king pin inclination. Using the 94.8 mm tires, ground clearance at the bottom of the hub is a little of 4.5 studs. Because the hub sits at an angle, the distance at the towballs is a hair over 5 studs. This hub 1 stud narrower than the Lego portal hub piece. The lxf can be found here: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/steater/Ideas/mini_turntable_portal_hub.lxf
  8. deehtha

    42083 - Bugatti Chiron

    That stepper mechanism looks a lot like one I have seen floating around in these forums, only using https://rebrickable.com/parts/90258/brick-special-2-x-2-with-grooves-and-axle-hole/ instead of the 24 tooth gear and bits.
  9. deehtha

    42083 - Bugatti Chiron

    on the rear of the suspension module, there are 2 crossblock, the one on the left is yellow and the one on right is lbg. Could this be similar to 42069, indicating differential orientation is important. Which would mean AWD. In one of the pictures of the transmission, on the side opposite the yellow knob gears, I can barely make out what looks to be a 24 tooth gear. That gear could mesh with the 8 tooth on the drive axle. And the only reason to extend the driveline past that point would be to connect to the front axles. I would say the Chiron is AWD.
  10. This forklift has a more realistic lifting mechanism. On most modern forklifts, the forks are connected to one end of a chain. The other end is secured to the frame or the base of a boom. The hydraulics act on the chain itself, like @Rudivdk pictures. Even if the range isn't the greatest, it is more realistic.
  11. The box for the app enabled batmobile make it look like it only drives forward and backward. But it may have a rechargeable battery. It not listed as needing any batteries. The 2 new trains on the other hand are listed as needing 10 AAA sized batteries. However, none of these carry the Power Functions logo. The older trains do.
  12. This is the first non-contest MOC that I have posted. It started out as @Madoca 1977's Baja Trophy Truck. I think I originally got as far as mounting the engine when I first started. As I only have the long shocks in soft, I decided I needed to redesign how the suspension worked. I also added all-wheel drive, which significantly complicated the front end. As well as kingpin inclination. I spent a good amount of time trying to get Ackermann geometry, but could not get anything sturdy. That was almost a year ago. I shelved this project. Then my wife got me the Porsche, Claas, and a second SBrick.. And this is the result. The main frame and roll cage are the most similar to Madoca's. Since I have taken these pictures, have redesigned how the battery boxes are mounted. They attach to the frame and sit much lower into the truck. It is possible to take off the bodywork and roll cage and drive. I redesigned the rear axle so that the power sent to the front was from both sides, so that one set of l-motors was not power 3 tires. There is still some clicking in the front, but only when not driven on a flat surface. I had to reduce the gear ratio to 1:1.667. The differential at the rear acts as an adder and sends power to the front differential, and fake engine. The rear wheels are still driven directly by one pair of motors, each. I could not figure out a way, without buying shocks, to suspend the rear axle on the smaller shocks and still have plenty of travel. Until I found some small springs in my junk drawer. I have no idea what their strength is, but they get the job done. At full compression and fully turned, the front tires will touch the body. The body itself comes off in 4 pieces: each side, roof/hood, and front bumper. More pictures can be found in my Brickshelf folder at: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=571486 I will leave you with my favorite picture
  13. What are you trying to build that requires that piece? If its a fake engine, have a look at some of the older studded sets. The ones during the transition from studs to studless might be good, like 8448. I'm away from my pieces right now, but a pair of these might be a good start if you are trying to use the piece for something else. I believe the cross holes should line up with the outer most hols on the Pin Connector Block.
  14. deehtha

    Design tips using the new car fender panels?

    Here are the side panels of a truck I made using the Porsche fenders. I had a hard time with them as well. The limited connection points as well as the shape make it difficult to integrate into a smooth line.. The good thing about them is that they are good for fenders that flare out slightly from the sides, like in a trophy truck. For comparison, here is what the truck looks like. More pictures can be found at http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=571486 If you want more pictures of the mount points for the fenders, let me know, I still have this assembled.
  15. Don't know if it's been mentioned yet, but it looks like there is a pair of dbg micro panels just below the cab of 42080.