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Found 29 results

  1. Hi, First and foremost, i'm French. I do my best to avoid grammatical and spelling error but some (a lot in fact) may subsist. I'm sorry for that by advance. Second, it's my first post here! Hopefully not the last. So here is my mod based on the set 21108 Ghostbusters Ecto-1 car. It's a fully custom made light mod. Key feature of this is: - NO modification of ANY Lego bricks. - NO kragle or drilling or any other funky stuff. - Everything must fit inside. - Hide the mod as much as it can be. - All should work as expected (the strobes strobe, the rotating beacon rotate, etc). The mod is made of 28 LEDs, all controlled by an Arduino board. All wire are INSIDE the car. // All images are clickable for a bigger version. Here is the exterior shots, everything is exactly like every set: The roof portion is still detachable without any hanging wire, it's also clean underneath. Nothing cheap to hide a messy mod: Everything is controlled by an Arduino Pro Mini (Not really a choice, it was the smallest Arduino board I had in home) that is hidden under a 4x2 plates: Same apply for the battery, that was what I had at the time of building. A smaller lipo can be fit so it's not a choice. Run time is... Well I don't know. It fit in the trunk of the car and it's the ideal size to be held by the window mounting point after a small change in the design. Neat! The roof is attached by a very thin wire and connectedto it via a small 45° home made adapter: To start the Arduino, there's a hidden Reed sensor which is (for who don't know) triggered by a magnet. I put a neodyme magnet in a small Lego round piece and when it's in place underneath, the controller is powered on. Yup, the Ecto-1 keyfob is a Lego piece with a magnet in it. Then the magic begin: Pictures don't do justice for the lighting sequence so here is a small video: For those of you where Youtube cry for a copyright infringement (soundtrack to match the car....), here is one that work (it was an earlier version without the embedded electronique like on these photos: If you have question, i'll be glad to answer them. Troll included.
  2. I share with you my latest video!! The diorama is mine, I hope you like it! Merry Christmas to everyone!!
  3. Kenneth-DK

    Tron Legacy Light Cycle

    First of all, this is not my design. It was designed by Jack Marquez, who was so kind to also provide instructions as how to build it :-) I took the liberty of using his instructions to build the Light Cycle, build a base for it and then added light to it, as it seemed the right thing to do, to really bring Jack’s Light Cycle to life. Adding light to my LEGO creations seems to be my thing ;-) I hope you all like it :-) Edit: Im sorry, Im having alot of trouble adding pictures, and even removing this big one that I only managed to add. Im aware that I should deep link from Flickr, but Im failing to get that to work too Please bear over with me and be kind and visit my Flickr account to see the Light Cycle lit up from the inside by LED lights
  4. I really like the two-seater TRON Legacy light runner MOD that was made by BrickBrosUK and posted on Brickset last week. I just love it's ingenuity and style while only using parts from TRON lightcycle set (number 21314). So, I made my own version and now, it even flies with a hover car modification. (AKA fold down wheels) It may be a far cry from the blue / orange bikes that was in the set, but I think with the new printed trans-red dish from the TIE micro fighter from this year's Star Wars range as tire rims, it could be even better when built in real life. The round 2x2 tiles in red are supposed to have this print. The diamond-like pieces are the car's headlights. The rear of the car while in driving mode. This vehicle has a steering wheel, something the original alternate model lacks due to part constraints. Flight mode, with the wheels turned down. This model would fit in rather nicely with my cyber punk models, although they are not set in the TRON universe. As usual, comments, questions and complaints are always welcome!
  5. Darth Hammy

    Imperial Arquitens Light Cruiser

    After a looong time, I finally finished it! This is the Thunderwasp (from Thrawn. Apologies if it does not look like it) which measures about 5/6 the length of the SSD Executor. Size comparison The bridge The underside And finally the simple interior.( Side panels openable but LDD glitched) Pls let me know if any improvements can be made!
  6. My absence from posting new topics is because of this beast of a moc. Near finished but still lacking an exterior for the rear. imperial light cruiser by Darth Hammy, on Flickr Size comparison with two 75055s imperial light cruiser by Darth Hammy, on Flickr Pls stay tuned for the official launch!
  7. This model is a modified CREATOR set called Lighthouse Point. (set number 31051) I removed the light-up brick and as such changed the top of the tower, along with tweaking the inside details and adding a custom Lighthouse keeper out of 1990's mini-figure parts. The model has modular parts out the wazoo, with a whopping 10 building sections. (their was one one more module from the set, but I removed it before taking pictures.) The set also comes with a killer whale / orca. You may have also noticed I had a bunch of trans - yellow bricks from a Classic Space build left over. They made a good replacement for the light brick. The inside features a table, lamp, and mounted instrument from the early days of sailing.... though this device measures where you are via the sun, so what is it doing on a stationary lighthouse? (The yellow chairs I added myself, along with the red soda can.) The set contains 10 modules as follows, (in no particular order): Tower top with light, building roof, building proper, small dock, exposed small rock, exposed large rock, tower foundation, two red tower modules, and a white tower module. This cute critter comes with the main model of set 31051. His flippers move, his tail flops around, and his jaw opens to swallow fish.... or unwitting swimming mini-figures! Thier is no LDD file for this build, but it shouldn't be too hard to recreate what I did, right? Comments, Questions, and Complaints welcome!
  8. caravancarlos

    Lighting up Lego Bricks

    Hi All I am looking at making my owning lighting system for my lego sets. I have seen a number of websites that offer a pre made kit however I would like to make my own unique design and I would also like to make it with using the JST connectors. My question is what connectors does all these different sites use. I don't know if they are JST PH's or some other JST connector. I need the connector to fit in between the stub of the lego brick. Can anyone help?
  9. Hi All, I'm doing a project, and would like to inverse one of the LED's in the 8870 PF lights. Seem to remember I saw something about this on the net long ago, but can't find it anymore - best I can find, is schematics over here. So, the big question is: Is there any MOD so the one LED lights up at +1 and the other at -1 on the output? Any inout is welcome.
  10. Pester78

    MOC - Pixar Lamp Luxo jr

    hi Guys, have a look to my creation, do you have any suggestoin on how to get it better? btw it is a lego ideas project: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/161724
  11. With the recent concert tour of "A Head Full of Dreams", Coldplay's popularity has risen drastically, therefore why not create a project of a popular group. The set is a concert stage, so the builders will be able to use it for their own customs and other play features. This set will include 4 exclusive minifigures of the group: Chris Martin Jonny Buckland Guy Berryman Will Champion Additional features include: Upright Piano Electronic Keyboard Drum set 2 Guitars Amplifiers 4 Beat boxes (green, red, blue, black) microphone I invite you all to be a part of this project, support and make something incredible become true.
  12. I'm taking the knowledge I learned from a class last semester and applying it to my long-term layout. The devices pictured here form the basis of a block-occupancy detector system that will be placed within my long-term layout to facilitate some autonomous functions, such as signals, automatic level crossings, and remote switching. To start with, let's have a quick look at the FPGA development board I'm using for the controller. This is the Basys 3 Artix-7 FPGA Trainer board, sold by Digilent. The Artix-7 FPGA chip used here has 33,280 logic cells divided into 5200 slices (each slice containing four 6-input LUTs and eight flip-flops). It runs off of a 5V power supply, delivered either through USB or an external power jack. There are four 2x6 'PMOD' connectors (standard spacing, thankfully), one of which also acts as an analog input. There is also a VGA connector and a full-size USB as well. In addition, there are 16 switches and five pushbuttons available, as well as 16 LEDs that can be accessed by the user. It uses the Xilinx Vivado Design Suite for programming. Next, we have the sensor I'm currently using. ...Or at the very least, something very similar to it. It's one of those fairly generic designs that's copied by everybody and sold for very little, so it doesn't really matter which one you get so long as it looks the same. This, however, is not the final sensor I'll be using - this design is extremely directional, in that it's only sensitive enough for my application when the light source is in front of the module. It turns out that the version which has a photoresistor as its light-sensitive element is much better at detecting the ambient light level, and is actually somewhat cheaper. These type of sensors will run happily on anything from 3.3-5V, and have two outputs: an analog output, which will vary its voltage from 0V up to the voltage of the supply, and a digital output, which operates in the reverse of what you'd typically expect - that is, it outputs a high signal (high being the voltage of the supply) when the light level is below the trigger point set by the potentiometer, and outputs a low signal whenever the light level is above the trigger point. There is one power LED and an LED that reflects the opposite state of the digital output. In my first picture, I have attached the VCC pin of the sensor to one of the VCC connections on the Basys 3 - pins 6 and 12 on the PMOD connectors act as 3.3V supplies, with pins 5 and 11 acting as a ground, and pins 1-4 and 7-10 acting as signal lines - and the GND pin on the sensor to one of the ground connections on the Basys 3. The digital output (DO) on the sensor is connected to one of the signal lines on that same PMOD connector, and the analog output (AO) is left unattached (if I connect AO to a ground connection, the sensor acts as if a bright light is in front of it no matter what). Next, we have to write the code that defines the behavior of the controller! FPGAs are interesting because rather than a microcontroller executing commands, the code written actually tells the FPGA to re-wire itself internally to produce hardware-only logic that provides the desired behavior (this is where the name Field-Programmable Gate Array comes from). As such, the code isn't written in C or Java, but in Verilog and other Hardware-Descriptive Languages (HDLs). The code files can be treated as individual 'blocks' of logic, and can easily be combined together to produce much more complex behaviors than we see here. This is the only Verilog module that runs the system currently: module bodsensortest(led,bodsensor); output led; // Goes to some LED on the Basys 3 input bodsensor; // Comes from AO on the sensor board assign led=!bodsensor; // Oddly enough the AO output is an inverse output - it goes LOW when the light level is above the trigger point endmodule Here I'm defining a module called 'bodsensortest', with the output 'led' and the input 'bodsensor'. Then I tell the Basys 3 to set the output 'led' to the opposite state of 'bodsensor'. In addition to building the actual logic, it's advised to write a testbench module that hooks up to your first module and allows you to simulate it before sending the code off to the board: `timescale 1ns/100ps module tb_bodsensortest; reg tbodsensor; wire tled; bodsensortest dut(tled,tbodsensor); initial begin $dumpfile("tb_bodsensortest.vcd"); $dumpvars(0,tb_bodsensortest); tbodsensor=0; #40 // Default should be sensor 'uncovered' tbodsensor=1; #40 // Sensor now 'covered' #20 $finish; // total sim time: 100ns end endmodule Here I define the units of time that I'm simulating in, the module, and inputs (reg) and outputs (wire) for the testbench file. Then I tell the system to create a .vcd (timing diagram) file, and in that file examine ALL variables within the testbench file. Then I toggle the state of tbodsensor off and on to simulate something passing over the sensor, with some delays. Finally, I add in a 20ns delay to round it to a nice number. Lastly, in order to actually make this work on the board, I have to play with a constraints file that tells the board what I/O pins to look at and what variables they correspond to: ## This file is a general .xdc for the Basys3 rev B board ## To use it in a project: ## - uncomment the lines corresponding to used pins ## - rename the used ports (in each line, after get_ports) according to the top level signal names in the project ## LEDs set_property PACKAGE_PIN U16 [get_ports {led}] set_property IOSTANDARD LVCMOS33 [get_ports {led}] ##Pmod Header JA ##Sch name = JA10 set_property PACKAGE_PIN G3 [get_ports {bodsensor}] set_property IOSTANDARD LVCMOS33 [get_ports {bodsensor}] Here I'm telling the Basys 3 that one of the LEDs on the board is the output from the first module, and the input for that module comes from one of the PMOD connections. After this, I plug these files into the Vivado software, and generate a file that's sent to the board. Because FPGAs are volatile, I also told the software to generate a configuration file that's saved in flash memory on the Basys 3 so it can automatically re-configure itself every time I turn it back on, rather than having to reprogram it with a USB. Otherwise, I would only be able to run this program until the Basys 3 was turned off! All of this makes a little LED on the board turn on and off Also, I've actually got the function backwards - I want the module to follow the backwards behavior of the sensor, as I want there to be a signal whenever a train is passing over the sensor (it makes more logical sense to me that way). However, so far I'm quite pleased with what I've accomplished as we didn't really do much with outside inputs during the class - we stuck mainly to the switches and buttons provided!
  13. Crimson Pirate

    6951 Robot Command Center lighted!

    Hi! Take a look on strange space set 6951. I used 14 lights to light up as many bicks as it was possible. I hope you will enjoy it I also published a movie to show you special light effects
  14. I am currently working myself through this great tutorial using MLcad 3.4, LDView 4.1 and POV-Ray for Windows 3.7: [Guide] Rendering LDraw models using POV-Ray http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=65876 Now I want to gain more control of the the lights, so I've added a light.dat in the source .ldr file in MLCad. In LDView this light.dat is shown and I can switch it on and off and I can play around with "replace main lights". When it comes to the POW export I do not see any difference in the .pov file which is created. It always has the three default lights and I wonder where the only one light.dat is which I have inserted in MLCad. This is the //Lights section in my .pov file: // Lights #ifndef (LDXSkipLight1) light_source { // Latitude,Longitude: 45,0,LDXRadius*2 <0*LDXRadius,-1.414214*LDXRadius,-1.414214*LDXRadius> + LDXCenter color rgb <1,1,1> } #end #ifndef (LDXSkipLight2) light_source { // Latitude,Longitude: 30,120,LDXRadius*2 <1.5*LDXRadius,-1*LDXRadius,0.866026*LDXRadius> + LDXCenter color rgb <1,1,1> } #end #ifndef (LDXSkipLight3) light_source { // Latitude,Longitude: 60,-120,LDXRadius*2 <-0.866025*LDXRadius,-1.732051*LDXRadius,0.5*LDXRadius> + LDXCenter color rgb <1,1,1> } #end Is there any option in the export settings for the pov export of LDView to overwrite the default lights and just use the light.dat from the source .ldr? Anyone any ideas? Thanks in advance, HoMa
  15. A small piece of chaos has always existed, a rouge element that refused to be tamed, lying hidden in the labyrinth of the inner city streets. But when the strange burning light becomes more aggressive, Alex Temnota is tasked with stopping it at all costs. But as the light's influence threatens to destroy everythinghis entire world, it becomes apparent that even the most extreme measures may not be enough. Don't believe that I've ever shared this here before. Hope you like it, and feel free to leave feedback!
  16. Here is my last MOC for a TechLUG contest. I choose to reproduce a scene from the the Empire Strikes Back. Here are the pictures from the movie. It gave me the details I needed for my MOC. I looked in the picture to find some elements and I tried to reproduce them on my MOC, so you find : 1. incinerator door 2. abandonned droid 3. a half round window 4. a conveyor belt 5. a box with C3P0 parts 6. Chewbacca 7. One of the 3 hugly guys (didn't find their name...) 8. a demijohn 9. some boxes with dump... Here is what I did with that : The incinerator door is lighted by a light brick : Backside : How I made my half round window : All the parts : C&C are welcome !
  17. nerdsforprez

    PF lights

    Please forgive me if this has already been asked before, but i am working on a project that compares PF lights with a third party that I already use (lifelights.com). Now, I know that the third party lights are already brighter, but I am looking @ other characteristics. Real quick, does anyone know (more or less objectively, but per speculation) how many PF lights I can connect to one PF battery box without dimming? I want to connect 4 pairs (8 lights) to one battery box, but want to know if it will dim. I have tried it will nominal dimming....but want to see if I can get others' input, and also see if adding that many lights will too quickly drain the batteries. Thanks!!
  18. NickLafreniere

    [MOC] LEGO City Subway Train Car

    Hello Eurobricks community, I would like to share my newest design that I've been working on for many months and now it is finally complete. Please take a moment to read the description and see all the photos for all the details of the set! https://ideas.lego.com/projects/100353 As train enthusiasts, I would love to hear your opinions and criticisms of my design. If you have any questions, I will be glad to provide more information.
  19. Hi All, As a frequent visitor of Kickstarter I came across the following campaign: Build Upons Light up bricks. https://www.kickstar...light-up-bricks I've seen more posts dealing with adding lights to their builds, and this might be usefull for some people. Perhaps this is not the best subforum to post this message. @Mod: please feel free to move this post to a more suitable place.
  20. Hi, Please check out pictures of my Lego Bat Mobile (original movie) with working Bat Signal on my web site www.Legoavatar.com.au or visit Lego ideas and check out my projects under Legoavatar. The Bat Signal actually throws out the Signal in a dark room!!! Also see my other projects, Lego Avatar Mech, Scorpion, Sampson and Lego Football with Stadium...
  21. This is a fully functional, remote controlled subtractor drive with independent turn and drive function which are separately powered. It is up on LEGO Ideas - support it if you like it, there you will find some more high-resolution photos :) https://ideas.lego.com/projects/101126 This is a fully functional, remote controlled subtractor drive with independent turn and drive function which are separately powered. It features: - robust design with custom-made differentials that can handle larger forces - transparent, "airy" and parsimonious design - "invisible" electricity, all integrated into the mainframe - front and back lights with light switch integrated into the mainframe - quadruple L-motor power (two linearly coupled blocks of two motors each) - front shield - triple speed freely hanging piston motor - self-stabilizing and self-balancing design - can be mounted with any superstructure, e.g. cranes, hoists, levers Constructed to an 11/15 measure, fully compliant with the rules of LEGO. Only official LEGO parts are used and no parts are modified or altered. Weight: about 4 lbs, dimensions ca. 30 x 25 x 30 cm The chassis can be used as a basis for basically any vehicle that has to traverse difficult terrain, e.g. building machines, bulldozers, search & rescue vehicles, etc. It is designed to provide a multipurpose solution for a variety of tasks. If fitted with different superstructures on top, countless models can be constructed.
  22. Hello Everyone! Lunchbot by littlegreenfroggy, on Flickr Backlunchbot by littlegreenfroggy, on Flickr We are Lunchbox Electronics and we wanted to reach out to the amazing community of LEGO lovers everywhere! We have just launched a kickstarter to hopefully fund our dream into a reality. We are a small start up in Boulder, CO and have created Light Up bricks that will be compatible with LEGO sets! We wanted to get rid of all the pesky wires and make nice elegant bricks that will be able to pass power and ground to then light up our LED bricks! We are trying to spread the word about our kickstarter as much as possible so we can turn prototype into production. Please check out the link to our kickstarter and if you feel inclined we would love it if you could back us! I have attached a photo here of lunchbot our own personal (pretend) lunch vending machine! Complete with light up prototype bricks! We hope for your support in our adventure. Thank you!!
  23. Hey guys. I've been working on something over the weekend and I'd like to keep it to myself and bask in its awesomeness share it with you. So here we go. Embedding isn't working. So here's the
  24. MichalPL

    Airport

    Airport Gallery Main Street Passenger plane Seats: 24 Second plane Seats: 4 Tank Abraham Lincoln Buggie luggage Self Airport stairs Inside View from the roof The rest of the pictures Photos taken at night Video: I invite you to comment :)
  25. hy i've found this video and it tought if it was possible to make this in lego? http://www.hobbyexpress.com/1_10_wraith_4wd_rock_racer_rtr_1042357_prd1.htm Thanks