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Found 9 results

  1. Hi, a few weeks ago I started a tutorial series on youtube. It's about how to program the lego powered up hardware with the Powered Up App (Lego Boost, lego Control+ and the wedo 2.0 sensors are part of the powered up hardware). The complete tutorial is 100% free. So far most of the stuff is pretty basic but it will get much, much, much more complicated later. I promise that ;) (People that saw the german version of the tutorial might know that already) There will be a new part each wednesday.
  2. I recently disassembled a Kek Powerizer (I am a big fan of the audio signals feature and wanted to record noises directly from the speaker) and discovered that there is a leftover sensor inside the toy! First of all, this is a pic of all the electronics inside the toy and how they connect to the back of motherboard. All of the sensors appear to be custom made by LEGO specifically for this toy. Close up of the top left corner. Notice how the tilt sensor section of the board has four soldered contacts for the tilt sensor, but where are the wires? Flip around to the back to see the tilt sensor (a little black cube with dots on top) connected directly onto the board. Unlike the other sensors, this one looks like it was prefabricated Behind another part of the toy there are these four cut wires poking out... Presto! It is another tilt sensor attached to the center of the toy. This tilt sensor is much larger than the one the Kek Powerizer actually uses and (judging by the revision date on the board it) looks like it is custom designed like the other sensors in this toy. I bought this figure second hand and the original owner had no memory of the toy being modified (in such a way that the tilt sensor was replaced second hand) so I think this was done at the factory during the manufacture process. Just something neat to find unused hardware still inside this thing. I don't know what this implies (if anything) about Galidor or LEGO during this time but it sure is interesting!
  3. This is ASSAULT3R, a Lego Mindstorms EV3 Assault Vehicle. After getting a second Lego EV3 set, I knew that I had to build something awesome. Features RWD and Steering Ultrasonic Sensor Infrared Sensor Two Color Sensors Dual Ball Shooters Gullwing Doors Detailed Interior and Exterior The ASSAULT3R's front sports red lights that will strike fear in enemies and their machines. Its dual ball shooters will shoot a total of six Lego balls, three for each side, high or low. That's twice the weaponry used by EV3RSTORM. The gullwing doors allow easy access for operators and it makes the ASSAULT3R look futuristic yet sinister. I had a lot of fun building this, and I'm very happy with the result. And of course, here are some photos as always.
  4. Hello, I have a problem with my NXT 2.0, My colour, supersonic and light sensors are not working however, touch sensors are working, Even there is no light at my sensors. Is there anything for me to solve this problem. Is the problem on my sensors or on brick ?
  5. I'm programming my EV3 vehicle to be operated by an IR beacon remote. I've successfully got the car to be able to move, but I'm stuck on something else. My vehicle has a 4-speed transmission, and a medium motor shifts the gears. I used the remote's topmost button (the one that turns on the green light on the remote) for shifting the gearbox. But when I press it, something goes off. It's really hard to say, but what I know is that the topmost button isn't acting like a normal button. So the motor keeps on moving until the IR sensor realizes the green light is off. I really need help with the program because I just want the topmost button to act like a normal button so I can press it to make the medium motor shift one gear with a one second wait before shifting to the next one. I would love a very helpful response from someone that knows how to program the IR remote and if there is no way to get the topmost button to get the result I want, an alternative would be nice so I can be able to shift gears with the push of a button on the remote.
  6. I'm working on a range of bricks for Arduino - mechanically compatible with LEGO technic, electronically compatible with Arduino - which I plan to make available in our bricklink store early next year. Below you have a short video with a demo: a servo motor controlled by a rotation sensor, both are connected to an Arduino nano board. What do you think ? What else would be useful? Both the motor and sensor are fully LEGO compatible: Some technical details on the motor and sensor: Motor: 0-180 digital servo housing dimensions: 3 x 4 x 5 studs technic axle connection to motor 4 technic peg connectors on the front 4 technic axle connectors on the sides (2 on each side) Sensor: measures rotation with a resolution up to 1 degree variable resistor 360 rotation capabilities housing dimensions: 3 x 4 x 2 studs technic axle connection to sensor 4 technic peg connectors on the top
  7. I'm taking the knowledge I learned from a class last semester and applying it to my long-term layout. The devices pictured here form the basis of a block-occupancy detector system that will be placed within my long-term layout to facilitate some autonomous functions, such as signals, automatic level crossings, and remote switching. To start with, let's have a quick look at the FPGA development board I'm using for the controller. This is the Basys 3 Artix-7 FPGA Trainer board, sold by Digilent. The Artix-7 FPGA chip used here has 33,280 logic cells divided into 5200 slices (each slice containing four 6-input LUTs and eight flip-flops). It runs off of a 5V power supply, delivered either through USB or an external power jack. There are four 2x6 'PMOD' connectors (standard spacing, thankfully), one of which also acts as an analog input. There is also a VGA connector and a full-size USB as well. In addition, there are 16 switches and five pushbuttons available, as well as 16 LEDs that can be accessed by the user. It uses the Xilinx Vivado Design Suite for programming. Next, we have the sensor I'm currently using. ...Or at the very least, something very similar to it. It's one of those fairly generic designs that's copied by everybody and sold for very little, so it doesn't really matter which one you get so long as it looks the same. This, however, is not the final sensor I'll be using - this design is extremely directional, in that it's only sensitive enough for my application when the light source is in front of the module. It turns out that the version which has a photoresistor as its light-sensitive element is much better at detecting the ambient light level, and is actually somewhat cheaper. These type of sensors will run happily on anything from 3.3-5V, and have two outputs: an analog output, which will vary its voltage from 0V up to the voltage of the supply, and a digital output, which operates in the reverse of what you'd typically expect - that is, it outputs a high signal (high being the voltage of the supply) when the light level is below the trigger point set by the potentiometer, and outputs a low signal whenever the light level is above the trigger point. There is one power LED and an LED that reflects the opposite state of the digital output. In my first picture, I have attached the VCC pin of the sensor to one of the VCC connections on the Basys 3 - pins 6 and 12 on the PMOD connectors act as 3.3V supplies, with pins 5 and 11 acting as a ground, and pins 1-4 and 7-10 acting as signal lines - and the GND pin on the sensor to one of the ground connections on the Basys 3. The digital output (DO) on the sensor is connected to one of the signal lines on that same PMOD connector, and the analog output (AO) is left unattached (if I connect AO to a ground connection, the sensor acts as if a bright light is in front of it no matter what). Next, we have to write the code that defines the behavior of the controller! FPGAs are interesting because rather than a microcontroller executing commands, the code written actually tells the FPGA to re-wire itself internally to produce hardware-only logic that provides the desired behavior (this is where the name Field-Programmable Gate Array comes from). As such, the code isn't written in C or Java, but in Verilog and other Hardware-Descriptive Languages (HDLs). The code files can be treated as individual 'blocks' of logic, and can easily be combined together to produce much more complex behaviors than we see here. This is the only Verilog module that runs the system currently: module bodsensortest(led,bodsensor); output led; // Goes to some LED on the Basys 3 input bodsensor; // Comes from AO on the sensor board assign led=!bodsensor; // Oddly enough the AO output is an inverse output - it goes LOW when the light level is above the trigger point endmodule Here I'm defining a module called 'bodsensortest', with the output 'led' and the input 'bodsensor'. Then I tell the Basys 3 to set the output 'led' to the opposite state of 'bodsensor'. In addition to building the actual logic, it's advised to write a testbench module that hooks up to your first module and allows you to simulate it before sending the code off to the board: `timescale 1ns/100ps module tb_bodsensortest; reg tbodsensor; wire tled; bodsensortest dut(tled,tbodsensor); initial begin $dumpfile("tb_bodsensortest.vcd"); $dumpvars(0,tb_bodsensortest); tbodsensor=0; #40 // Default should be sensor 'uncovered' tbodsensor=1; #40 // Sensor now 'covered' #20 $finish; // total sim time: 100ns end endmodule Here I define the units of time that I'm simulating in, the module, and inputs (reg) and outputs (wire) for the testbench file. Then I tell the system to create a .vcd (timing diagram) file, and in that file examine ALL variables within the testbench file. Then I toggle the state of tbodsensor off and on to simulate something passing over the sensor, with some delays. Finally, I add in a 20ns delay to round it to a nice number. Lastly, in order to actually make this work on the board, I have to play with a constraints file that tells the board what I/O pins to look at and what variables they correspond to: ## This file is a general .xdc for the Basys3 rev B board ## To use it in a project: ## - uncomment the lines corresponding to used pins ## - rename the used ports (in each line, after get_ports) according to the top level signal names in the project ## LEDs set_property PACKAGE_PIN U16 [get_ports {led}] set_property IOSTANDARD LVCMOS33 [get_ports {led}] ##Pmod Header JA ##Sch name = JA10 set_property PACKAGE_PIN G3 [get_ports {bodsensor}] set_property IOSTANDARD LVCMOS33 [get_ports {bodsensor}] Here I'm telling the Basys 3 that one of the LEDs on the board is the output from the first module, and the input for that module comes from one of the PMOD connections. After this, I plug these files into the Vivado software, and generate a file that's sent to the board. Because FPGAs are volatile, I also told the software to generate a configuration file that's saved in flash memory on the Basys 3 so it can automatically re-configure itself every time I turn it back on, rather than having to reprogram it with a USB. Otherwise, I would only be able to run this program until the Basys 3 was turned off! All of this makes a little LED on the board turn on and off Also, I've actually got the function backwards - I want the module to follow the backwards behavior of the sensor, as I want there to be a signal whenever a train is passing over the sensor (it makes more logical sense to me that way). However, so far I'm quite pleased with what I've accomplished as we didn't really do much with outside inputs during the class - we stuck mainly to the switches and buttons provided!
  8. Hi all. Here's a brief video of the EV3 floor roving robot I've been working on for the past few days. It's pretty crude but can go a long time without getting stuck. It makes use of one distance scanner in three positions by using a clutched IR sensor, has two bumper sensors that are padded by shock absorbing springs to reduce impact on the touch sensors. Behind the bumper is mounted a color sensor on the front that is used to measure near distance and ambient light. It appears to flash because it's rapidly switching between measuring these two things, With this sensor it can detect objects near to the ground that the main sensor peers over, and also back out of shadows so it doesn't get under furniture. Working on the software has been the long part as there is much debugging to do and each test run can take a long time depending on what I'm trying to improve. It makes decisions based on distances to its surroundings on three sides, so if it senses it's coming up on something in front of it, or a bumper strike is detected, it will choose to turn left or right depending on which direction is more open.
  9. I have a lot light sensors and wires connectors, maybe it is too old, I found the wire core is exposed as in picture, I want to replace this wire to a new wire, how can I do? What can I open bottom plate and what tool to be used? Does any expert give some suggestion to repair it?