Phoxtane

Eurobricks Knights
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About Phoxtane

  • Birthday 05/06/96

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Laramie, Wyoming
  • Interests
    Ideas:
    - 'fun' RC car with 42009 crane wheels, small black wheel hub bits, white panels and beams as main color with red highlights
    - Railgun tank based on the 52041 pieces in orange
    - A better Gundam

    Current Project: Sorting and catologing my collection

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  • Country
    USA

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  1. Wi-Charge

    Even if the system is totally safe... what about tunnels? Or even a relatively tall building on the layout blocking line-of-sight to the receiving unit?
  2. I think it is because the plugs look very similar (if not identical) to the WeDo plugs, though that's based on the Promobricks article from earlier in the thread - not sure how reliable a description that is. I still think it's 9V, for two reasons: compatibility between PF and PF2.0 (again, fitting a PCB with a boost converter and appropriate supporting components into a PF-size cable or plug is expensive), as well as the info from earlier on that it'll take 10 batteries - presumably, that's six for a battery box and four for a remote, at 9V and 6V respectively for 1.5V cells (i.e., AA and AAA). But what am I supposed to do with all this perfectly good outrage? Throw it away and waste it? No sir, that's no good for the planet.
  3. Weren't sets hand packed in those days? At some point they swapped molds to the new variant, and the two parts were mixed. Workers probably grabbed the parts out of bin without worrying about what type was in there (as for this purpose they are functionally the same). That means that if my theory is correct, there should be some instances of these sets where the two types are mixed.
  4. As described in this article, it sounds like these new remotes are simply on-off control - so how does that work for the train people?
  5. Doubt it - according to the spec page on the Lego website, the PF train motor produces its maximum torque with 450mA of current. Since that's a 9V motor, we know that the motor draws (rounded) 4W of power. If they moved to 3V power, the current draw of the motor would increase to ~1.33A, and even further if the motor were to stall. Philo's website says that the PF train motor stall current is ~1.3A (apparently extrapolated). If the new motor were a 3V device, it'd stall out at just below 4A of current, by my poor math. My reason for thinking this is that in order to retain backwards compatibility with the older train motors, the new motor's shape, size, cable attachment point, and everything will remain the same - All Lego has to do is tell the factories making the motors is to use the WeDo cables, since even the current PF train motor with four wires in its cable only uses the two power supply cables. That would save them money on molds for products that don't already sell a lot of units. Looking at the WeDo Smart Hub, it's asymmetrical in that on the end where the wires plug in, the light gray 'top' extends further down, presumably to make room for the connectors. We know that the new AAA battery box has the same dimensions as the current one, so I'm predicting a similar asymmetry with the new AAA battery box, with a similar (if not identical) interface: power LED, a three-position switch, and a green on/off button. However, we'll probably get more studs on top due to the fact that the PF connector won't be present. I'm actually holding the 'core' of the AAA battery box right now, and I'm seeing some dead space that may be eliminated by having to shuffle the battery positions around to make space for connectors that take up more space. I'm damn curious as to how they'll fit the Bluetooth chip and its associated support circuitry as well as the PCB antenna, since they're already having to make room for those new connectors. In fact, I would not be incredibly surprised to learn that the new battery box is actually a whole plate taller than the current one - not something incredibly obvious to notice, even if you are holding it, unless you've got the new and old one side by side. I seem to recall hearing that when the rechargeable battery box was introduced people wished it had some Technic pin holes - given the above, I don't think we'll be seeing those here either. Of course, all I can do is speculate until they're out in the wild. EDIT: Come to think of it, the new motor and battery box will likely be 9V due to the fact that we're getting a conversion cable of some sort. I highly doubt they're going to the trouble - and expense - of having a boost converter packed inside each cable.
  6. Warped track remedy?

    The problem is that for creating a larger radius curve you'd be stretching the inner rail and compressing the outer rail. The outer rail may crumple and kink, and the inner rail may grow thin and fragile. If you can get it working, that would be awesome, but it'll take a lot of work to get there!
  7. 2018 Lego Trains

    To be fair, the Duplo trains don't go nearly as fast as the standard ones; I still think they could use a color sensor due to this.
  8. 2018 Lego Trains

    I highly doubt this would be the case; Lego knows that the reverse-compatibility is huge for them. I'm predicting a new receiver and controller pair, which will communicate over Bluetooth. Presumably, they'll look slightly different than the current PF components so that it's easy to tell them apart. Hopefully the Bluetooth receiver is much smaller than the IR ones! All it really needs are two connection points for motors and such, and some space for a PCB with the Bluetooth chip and power-handling components attached. I'm curious to see if the Bluetooth chip is integrated with a general-purpose microcontroller, or if it's just a radio and needs a separate chip to do the grunt work.
  9. 2018 Lego Trains

    Those don't look nearly as cool as the preliminary images from before, sadly - I'll probably be picking up the cargo train because the new PF stuff seems promising, and I can always rebuild it to look more like the preliminary design from before.
  10. Are those pieces in those colors used elsewhere in the build? Doing so would cut down on the number of unique colors that would need to be packed into a set, reducing that much demand from Lego's constantly-full production lines. It's probably what other have said regarding age groups, etc., though.
  11. 2018 Lego Trains

    If it is teal, it's an instant buy for me. Teal is my all-time favorite Lego color.
  12. My recommendation is to use axles instead of pins, and to support them at more than one point - say, with Technic bricks spaced vertically some distance apart - in order to avoid a cantilevering effect. This should also reduce the effect of friction within the joint somewhat as well.
  13. Wheel holders for displaying trains

    Yes, but I want to bundle them all up together before I put them online. I want to get a triple-axle version, as well as ones for the PF and 9V train motors. I'll also want to print them out and test that they work properly!
  14. Wheel holders for displaying trains

    Doing this means I don't have to use actual track, which is always in short supply. In addition, this design doesn't require me to find an attachment point under the train car, since it traps the wheels and prevents the car from moving that way. It's certainly not the easiest way to do this, but since I have the CAD skills and a 3D printer I thought it would be fun to work on. I'll probably rework the shape to look a bit more like a Lego track piece anyway; I started with the profile shape of a Lego track piece, and worked from there to get the wheel traps on the inside of the rails. I think the even easier solution would have been glue, but nobody's happy when you try to use that... My 'shelves' are more like the tops of plastic drawer units and bookcases - things that you can't really level anyway.
  15. Whenever I put train cars on display in my room, they tend to roll away unless I put them at a funky angle, since the shelves aren't level. I designed a set of holders that the Lego train wheel piece sits on so they don't run away: The nice render above is sized for bogies with two studs between the wheel pieces - I designed up holders for single wheel bogies, and holders for bogies from zero to two studs between the wheels as seen below: These should help keep my trains from rolling away. I'll have to do them in gray the next time I have gray loaded into the printer.