M600

Eurobricks Vassals
  • Content Count

    23
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About M600

Spam Prevention

  • What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)
    modular

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Paris, France

Extra

  • Country
    France

Recent Profile Visitors

313 profile views
  1. Hello, Adding builtin music "could" be done but the place within the model is very small and fitting the smallest arduino + battery I had was already a challenge. Nonetheless it is possible, but I didn't even had audio board at the time. Yes, the code can be modified to also flicker the (add PIN_TAILLIGHTS to this loop: https://github.com/m600x/Ecto1/blob/master/main.ino#L22 ). Same apply for the start sequence skipping (Delete from 29 to 45 https://github.com/m600x/Ecto1/blob/master/main.ino#L29 ). You can also add a switch to determine if these instructions should be done or not.
  2. If you already programmed your arduino board, that mean you don't need a FTDI module. It's a tiny device that allow use to program Arduino that don't have USB port. The PCB board is just a self made connector, nothing special. I just wanted to have a way to disconnect the roof from the rest.
  3. Hi, Thank you for pointing me the error on the code. The github have been updated with fixed error and refactorized code. The behavior remain the same. https://github.com/m600x/Ecto1 I don't understand your question regarding FTDI but since you have programmed your board, I assume it doesn't apply to you since it's the device that allow you to program the board with an USB port... The Reed sensor is not mandatory to build the mod ;-)
  4. Hi Reckless, sorry for the delay in reply. I'll answer you the same way as Kolli75: Cost would be way too expensive for it to be worth it and selling kit only would be time consuming and not worth for me. Search on Aliexpress, there's DIY kit that somehow look like mine. Best regards.
  5. FINALLY! Someone made one! So there's now 2 properly enlighted Ecto-1 on earth Good job made! I'm impressed! SalientAnimal > The BOM is in the thread page 2... Kolli75 > Replied to you via PM.
  6. So... How's your progress? Any struggle? Hairpull? Hot shower in fetal position crying? Pics maybe? Don't hesitate to ask if anything is not clear!
  7. Hi, NOTAIDAR: - The lipo run at 3.7v which is fine to go directly to the RAW input of the board (positive to RAW, negative to GND). Tbh, mine is on VCC but you should use RAW. - Analogue or Digital is not relevant to the fact you should ground them or not. It's an output pin that can be for the analogue input or output and set a different state. Where Digital only got for output and can only be on or off. - You don't and you should not put header since you won't have the space in it to fit the assembly. Either solder wire and desolder/cut them. Or loose connexion is fine if you can make it steady while it's uploading. - It's a self made connexion with 8 pins (number 5 to 11 pins) 8 wires twisted together. (Huge mistake possible here). - Delay can be reduced at your taste or even removed completely. It was what look like a starting car for me. Can be changed without any fear. - I don't have any sort of control on that but maybe rerouting the VCC to an analogue then make a function that will monitor it and trigger a deep sleep might do the trick. - Arduino standard IDE is perfectly fine for that (that's what i'm using to upload in conjonction with Atom text editor for the color coding. Arduino setting with external editor). Your sketch is almost good. Only the Beacon part is wrong. When the line say constint beacon[] = { 6, 7, 8, 9 }; It mean that pins 6 of the Arduino goes to the positive lead of the first LED (for all 4) of the beacon. Pin 7 goes to the positive lead of the second LED (once again for all 4 beacon). And so on for the 2 other. All the Negative of those LED goes to GND. In summary: pin 6 ---> 4 positive lead of LED Beacon 1 pin 7 ---> 4 positive lead of LED Beacon 2 pin 8 ---> 4 positive lead of LED Beacon 3 pin 9 ---> 4 positive lead of LED Beacon 4 GND ---> 16 negative lead from the Beacon Hope it's a bit clearer. Tripellex: Yes, no drilling, no kraggle or whatever transformations of any sort. The Lego is made out of ABS with a tolerance of 0.2mm. The wire used is 0.1mm so it can be put between the brick. Yes, it will result in a very tight fit, almost a small amount of stress on those piece but not a major harm. The tightess fit would be a snot with a round piece on top. Take one brick, place the wire across a snot and put a round piece on top, you will see that the wire will bend perfectly to the shape while still maintaining the connection. WS2812B is what I'm currently using in my 10221 Super Star Destroyer (huge ship, huge LED). But the one I'm using in Ecto 1 is a fraction (litterally) of them. See your LED? You can fit 5 of the other in line and make only the length of yours... You soldering pad is the total size of the other LED. That's how small they are.
  8. The heck... Those notifications still land in the spam folder even if I changed it manually with a rule... Once again, I didn't draw any circuit (yolo) but it's pretty straight forward: every LED is connected directly to the pin number in the code. No resistors, no capa, nothing else. Why? One: I'm lazy Two: there's no room in the car. Three: You won't power it on for hours and hours so the LEDs won't be harm. Don't worry for that, the Arduino work at 3.3v which is very close to the voltage of the LEDs. And you blink them. In other word, when the code say "Red_Flasher = 5" that mean that the positive lead of the red led is connected to the pin 5 of the Arduino. The Negative goes to ground (GND). This is true for ALL the LEDs. I might do one very soon if the code is not enough (which I suspect I should start doing one now....) You will find the code here (updated upon need): https://github.com/m600x/Ecto1 lingham > The kit sold are much much easier than my solution but also much much less hidden and neat... Choose your camp!
  9. Hi, All the LEDs are wired up directly to the board, no additional circuit or component. Since it's a display unit that won't be powered on for a long period of time and because there's no room inside, it's just the board, the wire and LEDs. Thu there's no schematics (I didn't made one tbh) but my code say; #define Blue_Flasher_Side 3 #define Strobe_1 2 #define Strobe_2 4 #define Red_Flasher 5 #define gyrophare_array 4 const int gyrophare[] = { 6, 7, 8, 9 }; #define Blue_Flasher_1 10 #define Blue_Flasher_2 11 #define Headlights = 12; #define Stoplights = 13; There's no external control, everything is embedded in the Arduino. Once again, it's not the average soldering work, it's very tiny. Not impossible but you need a steady hand and patience!
  10. xtremeteamuk > Thanks for the kind words zoomatomic > I use a cell that I had laying around which is similar to this: http://www.ebay.fr/itm/LF-Reed-sensor-module-magnetron-module-reed-switch-MagSwitch-For-Arduino-/161841073403 but without the PCB. This one is made to smooth out the sensibility. Maybe you can desoldering it from the PCB. For the magnet, it's a 5mm per 3mm cylinder neodyme magnet pushed in force in the Lego cylinder: http://www.ebay.fr/itm/New-10x-Neodymium-Disc-Super-Strong-Rare-Earth-Fridge-Magnet-5x3mm-/111416274850
  11. If you have received the wire and LED, you might want to start practice soldering them, you'll see that it's tricky
  12. The only one from US made his way
  13. I use a charger like this one: http://www.ebay.fr/itm/5V-Mini-USB-1A-Lithium-Battery-Charging-Lipo-Charger-Module-for-Arduino-A866-YG-/141408980280 solder wire to the terminate and the other end with male header. That do the trick perfectly. The glue gun can be replaced with whatever you want, it's not mandatory and it's only used to protect the tiny solder point on the prototype board. You can even don't put anything at all. It's just peace of mind.
  14. M600

    Hello to everyone!

    Welcome!
  15. This is an exhaustive list of what is used inside the build plus a buying link: 7x White LED SMD 0805 (Bulk per 20pcs) http://www.ebay.fr/i...D-/121149286430 21x Blue LED SMD 0805 (Bulk per 20pcs) http://www.ebay.fr/i...D-/121149286072 1x Arduino Pro Mini 328 (5v) http://www.ebay.fr/i...A-/311437193162 1x Li-Po Battery 850mAh (That's what I used, search for other option if you want) https://www.sparkfun.com/products/341 Male Header (Bulk sale, 16 pin used) http://www.ebay.fr/i...o-/121508355410 Female Header (Bulk sale, 16 pin used) http://www.ebay.fr/i...F-/261621511399 Prototype board (Bulk sale, Smaller size will be cutted) http://www.ebay.fr/i...p-/151580931990 Enameled Wire 0.1mm (No metering to supply, will be enough) http://www.ebay.fr/i...l-/121648064031 Aside from that, you will need that: 1x FTDI Module (to program the Arduino) http://www.ebay.fr/i...o-/321875438143 A good soldering Iron Soldering lead (the tinner the better, 0.2 is good) Soldering flux (ease the tinning) http://www.ebay.fr/i...7-/321872991745 Double sided tape A hot glue gun (securing the very small connexion on the roof connector) If you're still up to this, buy what's needed. Supply a photo of everything and I'll gladly tell you the rest of the story.