Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'rc'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Frontpage, Forum Information and General LEGO Discussion
    • Guest Section - PLEASE READ BEFORE YOU REGISTER!
    • New Member Section - PLEASE READ BEFORE STARTING!
    • Frontpage News
    • Forum Information and Help
    • General LEGO Discussion
  • Themes
    • LEGO Licensed
    • LEGO Star Wars
    • LEGO Historic Themes
    • LEGO Action and Adventure Themes
    • LEGO Pirates
    • LEGO Sci-Fi
    • LEGO Town
    • LEGO Train Tech
    • LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
    • LEGO Action Figures
    • Special LEGO Themes
  • Special Interests
    • The Military Section
    • Minifig Customisation Workshop
    • Digital LEGO: Tools, Techniques, and Projects
    • Brick Flicks & Comics
    • LEGO Mafia and Role-Play Games
    • LEGO Media and Gaming
  • Eurobricks Community
    • Hello! My name is...
    • LEGO Events and User Groups
    • Buy, Sell, Trade and Finds
    • Community
    • Culture & Multimedia

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)


Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Country


Special Tags 1


Special Tags 2


Special Tags 3


Special Tags 4


Special Tags 5


Special Tags 6


Country flag

Found 537 results

  1. Hello All. This is my newest little creation. Intended to rip it up indoors on flat floors, which it does. Powered by one (off-brand) buggy motor and a buwizz 2.0. Has 4wd with open differentials front and rear, and solid axles front and rear. The lack of suspension allows for a robust chassis which handles the power delivery with no drama. Front tie rods can disconnect if you run into something but is otherwise very reliable, and fun to drive.
  2. - 4x4 - Spring shocks suspension at the front - Leaf springs at the rear - Opening doors with locks, bonnet, tailgate - Removable body - 2L, Servo, IR, LiPo ***
  3. Hi all. This is my RC Buggy, a C-Model build of the 4x4 Crawler set from several years ago now. After building the crawler most people want it to be faster, and with the original B-Model being the exact same drivetrain I thought I would build something to cruise around the house on flat floors. The buggy uses a much simpler drivetrain, rear drive with the two motors mounted transversely across the rear axle, with only one pair of gears each. One motor drives each wheel, eliminating the need for the differential. The motors face the same direction to avoid the use of a PF switch. Front suspension is independent a-arm type with decent travel. Rear is live axle swing arm. The buggy is much faster with the buwizz, of course, but I was pretty happy with the performance of the standard LEGO parts. https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-47375/Cfachini/rc-buggy-9398-c/
  4. It's time for a new MOC. This time it's a buggy. It is designed to be decently fast (considering it uses only two L motors) It features Full suspension. The rear axle is a live axle, and the front features double wishbone with caster angle. Sadly I don't have any Real life pictures... But I made a video. You can also buy the instructions on Rebrickable. I made them with stud.io. I added the cable in the instructions. https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-50170/Toucanx/fbb-fast-black-buggy/#comments More pictures can be found on Bricksafe.
  5. Small rc car based off a design I came up in LDD 2 years ago (link, now with (in my eyes) slightly improved looks. Not a top-speed record breaker, a powerful tug-of-war winner vs a car, but a fun little thing to drive around. Originally everything came together off the fact that I wanted to drive the space wheels with a motor, everything else just came around. 2x m-motors w/ 1:2.084 final gear ratio and uses tank steering. To archieve small size a PF receiver with a Ni-MH 8'4V 20R8H format battery (the typical square 9v ones), which is quite underpowered (the cell might be dead too as it has been just lying around for a year or so). Probably can be BuWizz-ed with some drivetrain and body mods. I guess could also use one of those train controller blocks from PU/C+ (?) line if you've only got that system. lxf-file: download Video and a few pictures (same as from video slideshow) below. Mandatory belly shot: Cya!
  6. A few months long ago, I bought the 5282 Rc Buggy controller to work with the battery box and the buggy motors. As of yesterday, I found out that my controller's left switch (The Very Important Drive Switch) had up and died, leaving the other 3 switches working fine. (2 toggle on the back, steering on the front) I have tested my two buggy battery boxes (6293c01 & 6272c01), cables, and buggy motors and they all work fine. I was wondering if anyone else has had this happen to them before, and whether you all think I should buy a new one or get it repaired. Picture of what the controller looks like:
  7. Hi All, This is my first attempt at a car chassis. It is remote controlled with forward and reverse and remote controlled steering. What is different about this design is that it implements a special gearing mechanism that allows the car to drive forward at a normal speed, and 1/5 the speed in reverse. It uses a special configuration of differentials and a pair of ratchet gears to achieve this - however I did discover a flaw in the design after I built it.
  8. Hello my friend. This is my another asset to this forum in form of a off-roader/rock-crawler in this particular case its more like rock-bouncer, the reasons are follows. This MOC is powered by 3L Power function motors, which two of them are located in the rear axle, to help during uphill climb with more torque requested on the rear axle and overcome any obstacles Gear ratios are as followos, from motor to the axle its 3:1 to speed up the model, and afterwards it connected to new planetary hubs with theire respective ratios, steering is controlled by one servo and everything is controlled by one buwizz brick. Instructions are avaible at rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/users/MK.Technic/mocs/ More photos on bricksafe page: https://bricksafe.com/pages/MK.Technic.Creations/rockcrawler-2l Video
  9. Hey y'all, First time I'm gonna try to do a WIP page... Been fiddling around with this Kraz 255b MOC by the one and only Ingmar Spijkhoven and figured out what attachment I'll build finally. In short, it's a mini portable bridge (called a TMM-3 or a scissor bridge). Functions of this add on attachment consist of- Actuator for raising and lowering the bridge Winch for deploying and retracting the bridge 2 stabilizers at the end of the truck to... stabilize the truck Propulsion has been swapped from 2 L motors on the sides to 1 one buggy motor under the hood. Now the replica engine can be put on display. The gearbox I really wanted to try part 35188 to make all the functions AND propulsion run on the one motor. Where I guess we can call the "transfer case" is at is right behind the cab, so here's what the result is for now. It was tricky since the tandem axle left no room for fit it in between the chassis rails. The rear shaft will actually hit the bottom of this when compressed all the way. It's as compact as could get it with Studio (kinda a LDD fan). It'll probably need to be reinforced even more, but wanna see how it mates with the buggy motor first. Never built a gearbox before and destroyed many other MOC's with gearboxes so don't have high hopes. Note- all of the motorized attachments will be ran with worm gears, so not to concerned with the gear ratios... buggy motor just gonna make everything super fast anyways with a Buwizz. Where buggy motor is planning to be in the future a bit more securely. Just seeing how a gearbox could be placed and how high it'll be. Part 87408 is now mounted securely below the motor with two 24t gears feeding it above (will get a shot of it soon). Getting the motor to fit underneath the hood was very miserable. Couldn't use a servo anymore since the buggy motor is so low it'll interrupt the travel of the front axle. (yes the fenders are mounted backwards when rebuilt...) Ordered the parts for the gearbox and will update once they come in. Planned order of the build- Gearbox Wheels Test drive Stabilizers Building the frame/chassis of the TMM winch Scissor bridge Survive the misery
  10. Hi guys, after a while of being not so active on the forum I decided to share a MOC (still wip) of a MAZ 537 8X8 truck. When I saw the 42099 I knew I needed some planetary hubs, so I got myself 8 of them :). Around this time I started playing with LEGO again, but kept it at american trucks (which i will post later). I started making a simple axle, because I really wanted the independent suspension on all axles like the real truck has. After this I build a test chassis and one thing led to another and now I have a rolling chassis for the truck. I came across these actions photo's of the truck and i'm planning to make some more and better pictures of the drivetrain and such. http://MAZ 537 WIP by J. van Veldhuizen, on Flickr http://MAZ 537 WIP by J. van Veldhuizen, on Flickr http://MAZ 537 WIP by J. van Veldhuizen, on Flickr Will keep posting updates! Have a nice evening, Legotechnicus
  11. After reading several topics on Eurobricks, today, for the first time, I present an MOC on the forum. Do not hesitate to notify me if I made mistakes in my presentation. This MOC is a kind of tracked machine-gun Tank. It is powered by 2 BuWizz (one in the body, the other in the turret). Motorization: one RC per track with each a gearbox with 2 speeds. The two gearboxes are synchronized and controlled by a motor L. Orientation of the turret by motor M. Lifting of the "gun" by motor L. The firing mechanism uses 2 XL motors. Some pictures : Overview : Char Jaune Lego 001 by Laurent Lesellier, sur Flickr Char Jaune Lego 002 by Laurent Lesellier, sur Flickr Char Jaune Lego 001 by Laurent Lesellier, sur Flickr Char Jaune Lego 003 by Laurent Lesellier, sur Flickr The body : Char Jaune Lego 005 by Laurent Lesellier, sur Flickr Char Jaune Lego 006 by Laurent Lesellier, sur Flickr On-board ammunitions (105 rounds) At around 6 shots per second, the magazine empties in 17 seconds! it's very fast ! Char Jaune Lego 004 by Laurent Lesellier, sur Flickr Photo of a charger, there are 15 in the magazine: Char Jaune Lego 008 by Laurent Lesellier, sur Flickr For the video, you can watch the video on my wife's Facebook account. If you like it, you can like, comment and share! This will give me a few points for the contest organized by BuWizz. The subject of the competition is how to play with Lego during the lockdown due to the coronavirus! I propose an idea with playmobil! Do you like it? Thanks for reading. Do not hesitate to comment.
  12. Hello I'd like to present my small-scale RC semi truck. It has PF Servo, XL motor and sbrick mounted in the cab/frame and the battery is neatly mounted in the trailer that also has a two-stage ramp driven by single L motor and Technic strings. The cables go through the hole in trailer saddle (big turntable) to connect sbrick with battery and ramp motor with sbrick at the back of sleeping cab. Full gallery: https://imgur.com/a/2uPHku There is an alternate configuration for potential standalone/without trailer use: Hope you'll like it :)
  13. Hi everyone, Here is my last original creation : The RC Car from Toy story movie ! I would like to make a RC car controlled by smartphone and easily recognizable by young people (and older one too...) Features : RWD by 2 L motors Steering by 1 Servo motor Controlled by 1 Sbrick (or 1 Buwizz without bbox) Independent suspensions External switch for power supply Some nice colors I used 2 pythagoriciens triplets to improve chasis stiffness. The car is divided in 3 modules : front, motors and rear In the picture below you can see red bush on 4l axle with stop. It's the switch to power up or down the battery box. I used Anto's buggy motorisation : http:// http://www.techlug.fr/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11544 but il replaced 8t by 24t. HD photos gallery : https://www.flickr.com/photos/147164115@N07/albums/72157713497548457 Building instructions are available : https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-39835 I added 3x3 lime dish for the eyes on 3D model : I hope you'll like it, See you soon !
  14. Hello, here's a thing I've been working on and off for some time now. Started off a as drift car in 1/11th scale, but then just flowed down into a simple street tuner build. Itasha definition from Wikipedia - In Japan, an itasha is a car decorated with images of fictional characters of anime, manga, or video games. Features: Openable scissor doors, bonnet and boot NOS and TV screen in the boot Interior with steering wheel, bucket seats, "rollcage" and audio system. "Engine cover" with turbo and honeycomb airfilter RC via BuWizz Drive with 2x buggy motors from fastest output Steering with m-motor Custom graphics of C.C. from Code Geass (linked in my signature) as well as sparco, koni and buwizz "sponsor" decals Sorry for crappy photos, only have smartphone at hand. I'll try to film it driving indoors or sneak into the building's hallway today or tomorrow. Cya!
  15. Ahoy, seamates! I have started my LEGO-Ideas Project 2-3 months ago and now I want to present it to the specific lego pirates community! Would be nice to get your suppport but even more I am looking for some advice what I can improve on it. SUPPORT NOW Please take a look on the ideas website or at my flickr https://flic.kr/s/aHsmMnLn6a for more fotos! Here is the text from ideas: Welcome on board of The Rolling Dutchman! Since I have been a child I always wanted to control my LEGO Red Beard Runner without pushing it around and now my dream has come true. I have build a motorized Version of the famous Flying Dutchman which is my favorite pirate ship, too. I have seen the original swedish Vasa which has given the idea for the Dutchman with its marvelous bow and stern. So I managed to combine them with my own creative ideas into this "rolling" Dutchman! Please have a look at the features in the video and the pictures! Video: Update 2: Thanks for your 1k supports so far! I have worked on the main picture a bit and now added a picture of the crew and one showing the functions as well. Update 1: New rotten Sails! (Picture 7+8+Video still with the first sails) Motorized Features: Rolling movement caused by waves (1. M-Motor) Two motorized triple-barrelled chasers in the bow (1. M-Motor) Motorized steering with simoultaneously rotating ship´s wheel, rudder and steering mechanism (S-Motor) Motorized movement for- and backward (L-Motor) Motorized sail trim with turning capstan and changing sail position of all square sails (M-Motor) All features can be controlled by rc-control via 4 channels and two receivers All features use the Power-Function System but could easily be adapted to the new Control+ System which can lead to advanced handling of the functions The battery box can slide out easily to switch on/off and change batteries General Features: Minifigures: Davy Jones, Jack Sparrow, Elizabeth, Bill Turner, Barbossa and more. (I am not familiar with the movies in english so I would like to ask you to tell me the names in the comments section!) Two decks with cannons (one side the lower deck is closed to store the motors) The two tripple-barreld chasers can manually slide backwards and then the gun ports can be closed Removable deck at the stern to take out the steering wheel Removable lower balcony´s on both sides Handmade sails Two functional anchors Upper cabin minifigure size with Jack stealing the heart (illuminated) Lower cabin with Davy Jones organ (illuminated) Two torches at the stern (illuminated) The capstan can be removed The ship is based on the sturdy hull parts, the complete 2 lower rows of bricks can be removed with the steering and driving wheels to use it as "normal" push forward ship or display model The main mast and the mizzen are both slightly tilted backwards Correct rigging and sails due to the movies The ropes between the masts can be removed easily to take them apart for transport It would be an honor to receive your support. Aye! I have to thank my friend J-H to help me with some motorization problems and a special thanks to my girlfriend for not freaking out! Thanks, yours Störtebricker from Hamburg, Germany SUPPORT NOW
  16. Powered by BuWizz V1. Drive: 1x M-motor. Steering: 1x M-motor Video: WIP photos:
  17. Thought I'd create a thread to just post WIPs of my MOCs, or neat mechanisms. Finished: Generic Muscle Car
  18. Hello All, It has been ages since I shared something on here, even though I visit daily to see everyone else's builds. However, 'recent events' have given me more time to build. I haven't been idle these last couple of years, but nothing I made rose to the level of sharing. The following buggy has four unrestricted 5292 motors, at 12.6 volts, going to the rear wheels and only weighs 1400 g. This makes it hard to handle for the inexperienced driver. The rubber bands on the rear control arms keep the ball sockets from coming apart. The lower arms are different from the upper ones due to the change in position of the joints on the swing arm through the suspension cycle. This also creates a rather nice camber curve. I also discovered a weakness in the stiff springs. The upper mount will shear off of the side of the shock body if it is used. Many of my shocks have stress fractures there. I've got to clean the thing up now, it is covered in mud. I wonder who did that. Question, concerns, comments, or relevant war stories? v/r Andy
  19. Hello everyone! Before I start I want to wish all of you to stay healthy, survive and win the disease! Today at my birthday I decided to share with you my latest MOC. This is a brand new Liebherr LR 11000. From the previous model, it took only some boom sections and proportions. The chassis and superstructure built from nothing and were rebuild several times. Below please let me share with you some dry specifications of the model: - Crane is about 2 meter high - weights 5 kg - requires at least 5 big battery boxes for been fully operated - can be managed by 3 sBrick units. - has 10 PF motors (4 are in the chassis) - Has 9 pneumatic cylinders + a pump - Has a full-size V6 diesel fake engine like the real crane - Has 6 winches, 3 of them are installed to the boom like in the real crane, but none of the motors are on the booms. - Crane is able to assemble and disassemble back from horizontal to working condition without any human help. - Has 4 pneumatic features, three of them are operated from the cabin, two of them are operated from the operators work seat Now is hte time for it's features: - Driving and steering - one XL motor per each track. Torgue increased 1:25 - Slewing by 2 M motors - L Motor for SA Frame winch - L Motor for the Main boom winch - M motor for the luffing jib winch - M motor for the secondary hook winch - L motor for the main hook winches - Pneumatically adjustable operators cabin - Pneumatically adjustable derrick counterweight horizontally - Pneumatically adjustable derrick counterweight vertically - Pneumatically rising chassis for (dis)assemble. - L motor for the pump and V6 engine - Individual Sbrick custom profile - 3 Pair of lights: - Front LED - Cab LED - Main hook winches LED Here is the link to photos, I'll post some directly here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Aleh/2020-lego-liebher-lr-11000 Bonus: Here is the performance of the superstructure stability without boom and without counterweight(!), only one battery box insalled for fotors activity. Boxes are full with batteries (24 pcs) Easy to fix the front suspension: https://bricksafe.com/files/Aleh/2020-lego-liebher-lr-11000/IMG_2983.jpeg/800x600.jpg 1,5 kg load. Please enjoy and feel free to ask any questions.
  20. EDIT 08/22 - CURRENT STATE : Here is a truck I just made (well, it actually took me several days) while being confined. I don't like to take apart my sets on display to MOC so I had to do with just a bunch of spare part I had, hence the strange color scheme and some questionable building technics and aesthetic choices (for example, I didn't had anything to make the front radiator grill so i had to improvise...) I wanted to make an American style Truck, inspired by the 5571, 5591, 8285 and more recently 42078, and remote controlled so I can have a little fun with it. Please don't be to harsh, this is my first Technic MOC that didn't end at the prototype status. The original goal was to test my new Buwizz but I finally used only original Lego PF element, because I rather use a physical remote than a smartphone. It is powered by a L motor (with the drivetrain as follow : Motor---16T / 16T---20T / differential / 20T--20T / differential) ) and steered with a servo, with a decent speed and a good steering lock. The IR receiver and standard AA battery box are housed in the back of the cab, and the latest can slide up for replacement by tilting the foldable spoiler forward. The spoiler can also be folded all the way down to make the cabin roof flat. The doors can be opened and the hood can be lifted, even though there is no fake engine underneath because that's where I furst intended to put the Buwizz. (Actually there is still enough room for it so I could convert the truck to a Buwizz model and remove all the biggest section of the cab for a more lightweight truck. :-) I could also run an axle under the cabin to the engine compartment and run a fake engine from the exposed 16T gear... A lot of work, thoughts, trial and errors went into the building of this truck, so I hope you will enjoy it as much as I do. There is still A LOT room for improvement, but unfortunately I was limited by the parts I had. Almost all of my grey and black liftarms and technic connectors whereused in the process ! I am not entirely satisfied by the roof of the cabin in the IR receiver area, which is a bit messy, and I really wish I had DBG curved panel for the sides instead of LBG ones. And of course, I wish I could replace the ugly black plate at the front with a proper truck grill. I also have to add a fifth wheel, as it is not able to pull anything in this configuration. It should be easy anyway, as I have a lot of mounting option at the rear (the black panel is only there for aesthetic purpose). I just have to figure out something with the parts i have left... In the end I like very much how it turned out though, and I may consider a bricklink order to fix the aforementioned issues once the lock-down is over. In the mean time, any comment and suggestion for improvement is welcome ! :-) EDIT : now with a running fake engine !
  21. This is my first post that I was so confused about which theme I should post in: train? technic? scale modeling? I finally choose train tech just because it's a train after all If I made a mistake that put it in the wrong place, please forgive me. Actually I created a MOC train that is a 1:35 scale model and also with technic internal though it looks like ordinary stud-built. It's a model but not only looks look. It should be able to do something like the real one. 1, Origin It won't be happy if a man never creates something. Since my kid likes train toys very much, I start to focus on rail transportation. I found Lego's official sets are quite compromised since they need to match the mass need. The traditional scale train models are normally small and very expensive which is also hard to get in China especially one delicate like Marklin(okay, it's because of the price). We are AFOL, so I must have a scale train model, not a toy. 2, about type Targeting train is also in very straightforward logic. I am ready to build "Dora" (Heavy Gustav) as the showdown to my kid. I will tell him nothing is necessarily built on the rail after completion of this ultimate rail machine of all the time in history. Heavy Gustav cannot move by itself, I need locomotives. yes, before any creation on the rail, the locomotive is the prerequisite. That would be very clear, D311 diesel-electric locomotive was specialized built for "Dora" by Krupp. Two groups of double D311 drive "Dora" to move with each on two four-axis chassis. pic1: D311/V188 in WWII D311 WWII by Nash Liu, on Flickr 3, Scale It is a scale model that also needs to run on standard 9V track. The scale bases on the gauge of track known as L-gauge scale that is between 1 and O gauges. I choose 1:35 because there are the most resources of 1:35 Military models When TAMIYA continually push this scale. pic2: a scratch build D311 static model with 1/35 Scratch Build 1/35 D311 Model by Nash Liu, on Flickr 3, Exterior The ordinary stud brick build is always more graceful and beautiful showing than technic build. There is no weird gap and abstract design like technic exterior. However, the stud brick is not flexible to show various details and often takes up a lot of space. SOT can show as one stud, but SNOT often has to spend 2 studs to show different details. If Lego develops more special bricks and plates for combination and detail showing, the precision of the Lego model will be up to another level. Maybe Lego's official target is only toy. pic3: what this lego train model looks like(I don't have enough unicolor bricks, so I post computer rendering graph) MOC D311 Diesel Electric Locomotive 1:35 Exterior by Nash Liu,on Flickr 4, Interior Beside exterior, the model is ensouled by the functions that should be capable like its true body. D311 is the most powerful locomotive at that time, so the model also should be the most powerful train in the lego universe. pic4: super compact technic design with 4 motors that are parts of load-bearing MOC D311 Diesel Electric Locomotive 1:35 Interior by Nash Liu, on Flickr 5, Extreme Design What is an extreme design? Simply speaking, it is not a waste of one stud. Designers are very likely to MOC without limits. We can often find super complex and magnificent masterpieces on the web. But the model should have confine, at least confined by scales and functions. From the above, I list the following features. 1, Dual XL motors 2, Dual stepper motors for clutch and gearbox 3, Dual 8881 battery boxes that contain 12 AA batteries for the enormous duration 4, 2-speed gearbox 5, differential adder for XLs coupling 6, clutch between 8x8 and 8x4 driven 7, bogie integrated driven system pic5: a prototype that shows adder, XLs, steppers, and general structures Prototype PowerFunction D311 by Nash Liu, on Flickr 6, work with its couple The ultimate Gustav is still a blueprint in my brain. Many guys including me are curious that what they look like when Gustav is moving in history. I build GCs and PS with an appropriate scale. the model of Gustav is 1:72 normal design. I scale down D311 to match 1:35 by PS(Sorry, who can tell me which CAD can change design size by scale?) I CANNOT wait to build 1:35 with extreme design. Although the specification is not clear yet, one thing I can make sure and a super exciting feature is how to make this giant millipede turn on Lego standard track. It should be very magnificent. Heavy Gustav with 4 D311 by Nash Liu, on Flickr
  22. Hi there guys !!! How's everyone? It's been so long ! I had another pretty long dark age plus some kind of "lego creative block" , plus i got into developing videogames last year so i've been quite busy. Recently a friend of mine got me into lego again and somehow that creative block went off also thanks to the purchase of a buwizz :) I've always been quite obsessed by motorbikes and finally with a buwizz i could give them the look i wanted and mainly not run after them I've made two different ones both have something special: The first one is inspired by the 90's look of Honda's dirtbikes and in ludicrous mode it is honestly the fastest lego vehicle i've ever made. In the video it's running on "slow" mode. It works the same way other lego bikes used to work but instead of moving an added weight i've figured out that moving the battery alone is enough to make the bike lean left or right. In the next days I'll shoot a proper video somewhere else where i've got more space to drive it in ludicrous https://youtu.be/o7YUIS2ne7Q The second bike is "better" in a way, it only requires an L motor, it can run on pure power functions while still being enjoyable, it's enough removing the fake fuel tank and attaching the PF reciver. This one is pretty fast as well when running in ludicrous and overall it's a lot of fun :) I will take a video of this one too as soon as i have the chance https://youtu.be/-D2Kf-bZz0Y I really hope you guys will like them Bikes are not so common to see , it's kinda time to start making them :D if anyone is interested in the 3D files i'll happily share them
  23. Gabor

    [MOC] RC Scania Milka Truck

    Hello everyone! I´m really happy to present you my next MOC, the Milka truck, which is my 6th remote controlled vehicle at minifig scale! I have built it between December 2018 and March 2019. I have already shown it on two Lego events in Germany, there is an article about it on Zusammengebaut and there is a video on Youtube, in which I am interviewed. It is in German, so if you understand it, it is worth to watch it! Unfortunately I have found only now the time to make some pictures and an own video: The video is a new record from me. It contains the most visual effects among my other videos. I was very happy during the making of it, because last time I have made only rarely videos. It was nice to spend a time again with the camera. It took a little bit longer, as I planned. Because of the complexity I had to record some parts not only once and it was very time consuming to create some scenes on the computer. I´m really proud of the result, hope you will like it, too. Till now it is the most simple and most difficult tiny RC from me at the same time. Simple, because the technic costruction inside is very compact. Difficult, because the modelling of the Scania front and the letters of the word “Milka” meant a really big challenge for me. Now you can find the electric parts just simply near each other in the truck, and the chassis is under the electric parts. It is only 3 studs high. Earlier in the same vehicles you could find 3 pairs of gears, which brought the power from the motor to the wheels. Now it is only 2 pairs. The servo motor for the steering is exactly there, where we need to have it. It can steers the wheels directly, without any long and big construction. The original plane was that I put the receiver or the battery box in the trailer, but finally I found a place for all the parts in the truck. For the chassis I have used a lot of half liftarms and small pieces of rigid hoses. They are very good here, because I can cut them in for example 1 or 1,5 stud long pieces, too. In the truck the battery box is exactly over the driven wheels, so the truck can go very reliable on terrains, which are unfriendly. I mean, it can go up to the pedestrian area in a Lego City and it can destroy everything. The whole truck contains approx. 1020 parts. Most of the bricks are in the body. You can read the world “Milka” on the sides four times, but all the four sides are different. It is changing, how I could fit the side panels, what kind of other parts they have to hold, or how many place I had in the truck near the motors or the other things. During the designing of the cabin, I was afraid, that it will be ugly with the big white panel on the top, but finally I think, it´s ok. If you would like to see and try the truck in real life, visit the Bricky Way 2020 Lego exhibition in Györ, Hungary. It´s not far from Vienna. 7-8 March, 2020! Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/brickyway These are the infos, which I wanted to share you about my newest creation. Hope you like it! :)
  24. Hello all here is my latest build, inspired by the Traxxas X-MAXX 8s remote controlled car. The idea was to build a car as "compact" as possible while using 8 buggy motors, 2 for each wheel to give it decent power, as you might notice the buggy motors are at a 90 degree angle from each other, this is to prevent them sticking out the front and back, the chassis needed tall shock towers anyway so it was a nice fit. The front suspension and steering is built fairly sturdy, however crashing with this power, you can brace all you like, it is just going to break as you can see in the video.. The newer type cv-joints are used at the motor end, but since i did not want to use the new hub with its reduction, i used the "old" cv joints with the hubs, and yes, it does "eat" the joints and/or the hubs when something is not sitting correctly. the front has a dampener, a large thin pneumatic actuator, normally hidden by a panel, it is shared with both sides and does.. very little.. but is was fun to integrate. The front springs are from the 8420 motorcycle, adjustable in stiffness, but less stiff them most people imagine them to be, these just seems to fit the build, sadly i didn't have more yellow ones for the rear. The steering uses 2 servos, not only to give it more torque for steering, but also to help reduce the slack from the gear rack to the 12z gear, The two 12z gears on the rack are both offset by 1 tooth, but against each other, the long axle going to the servo's are under a bit of stress but nothing serious, it really helps reducing the slack on the steering. To further prevent slack from the hubs they are steered with the front links and stabilized the rear links, the next picture shows the 2 gears on the same rack (car is upside down), you can also see the imprint of a 5L axle from the bumper on the 5x7 frame after a crash.. The rear suspension has the same drive setup, but since it is more fixed and less likely to get damaged in a crash, it never destroyed any joints or hubs, here i also integrated dampener in the form of small pneumatic actuator on each side, which again.. do very little.. but was fun to integrate, it also has a torsion bar going from one axle to the other to prevent body roll, let's just say it was fun to integrate :) The grey springs are the exact same as the yellow ones, but these come off the Lego 8369 rc "dirt crusher" set, i happened to have these 4 spring, considered to get 2 more yellow ones, then i saw the price.. and went with mismatched colors.. so please forgive me i cheaped out... The body started out as a crawler body, and got heavily modified, extended in every way, added 4 seats for Technic figures and a new color scheme, It is fully detachable with 5 pins. The front and rear lights are in the chassis but they line up perfectly with the translucent bricks on the body, making it easy to get to the buwizz for charging or turning them on. The video and pictures have some inconsistencies in them, i know.. but i have had 3 horrible crashes, that required rebuilds plus some roadside repairs here and there, some i forgot to give the proper fix later on.. shooting the video took me a bit longer because of the same reason, i need to practice my driving skill... or not go to a skatepark when it is wet... or just not build in overkill mode... Thanks for reading! if you have questions or comments, feel free to ask of course! Marx.
  25. Hi there as nobody else yet presented a PF mod of the 42109 car (@ozacek?), I gave it a try yesterday afternoon/evening and did a quick & dirty PF mod. The result is a replica that's not totally identical in all details but comes very close to the original from the outside with considerable changes on the chassis. Differences: * Very obvious, the colors, but that was not important for the intended task. Initially I wanted to build it in red and black, but soon switched to orange and black and later just ignored the colors to save time when searching the needed parts - I have two many models built ATM and hence am low on some essential parts in the initially desired colors. The upcoming digital model(s) will use (a) more pleasing color combination(s). * The beam connecting both sides of the cockpit was moved 1 stud forward and was constructed differently to hold the PF AA battery box in place * As I couldn't find a position for the PF Servo motor that is low enough that the hood can be closed as much as in the original 42109, I used a 1 x 9 bent liftarm to fix the hood at an elevated position, imitating the look of a huge hood scoop. This way the hood is kept shut very tightly btw. * I used curved 11 x 3 panels with 2 pin holes for the side skirts, as I find them visually more pleasing then what was used in the original 42109. * The chassis is somewhat different: Instead of 11 x 7 frames I used 7 x 5 frames as I don't have 11 x 7 frames yet; 8L axles with stop for each rear wheel - so the axles can't be pulled out, but the wheels can still get loose, though I haven't seen this yet during driving and some other minor differences. The car doesn't use a differential but drives each rear wheel with a single PF L motor. Power Functions parts used: * 2 x PF L motor * 1 x PF Servo motor * 1 x PF IR V2 receiver - optional (not needed with BuWizz) * 1 x PF IR remote control - optional (not needed with BuWizz) * 1 x PF AA battery box - optional (not needed with BuWizz) [* 1 x PF control switch - actually not really needed, if the drive lines are set up in a way that both PF L motors can run in the same direction (not needed with BuWizz)] I.e. the PF equipment that came with the 9398 - not that I have one. Enough talking/writing, here are three shots, digital model(s) will come later: Using a BuWizz instead of the PF remote control equipment saves a lot of space and weight and will make this car faster. So far I haven't used it with fresh AA batteries but only with used AA batteries and a BuWizz and even in normal mode the car seems to be quicker, not to speak of fast and ludicrous modes, where the wheels start slipping on carpet and laminate floor when going backwards at full speed in fast mode or both ways at full speed in ludicrous mode.