Pentomind

Eurobricks Vassals
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About Pentomind

  • Birthday July 8

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  1. Hello Guys, I made some new characters that I want to share with you ! :-) This one is rather simple but I like the yellow / dark gray color scheme. It looks like some kind of a factory / construction worker. He may get ''horny'' though... The next ones are based on the same model but I wanted to give them a futuristic / clinical look. I call them The Twins : This one has nothing particular, I just wanted to make a black/white ''jouster'' one : At some point I got bored of making always the same square-shaped heads so I started experimenting. After some fails I ended up with two models that look good in my opinion. The first one is a combat droid with an arm / shoulder mounted canon : and the last (but not the least), and my favourite one : A white combat robot dual wielding handcanons : As usual, please feel free to give me your honest opinion about these creations.
  2. Thanks, no video yet, maybe I will make one when the dozer is complete with a ripper. It depends on what you're looking for. If you look for accuracy to the scale then yes, it's a little too fast. If you want a fun thing to drive around then it's perfect ! :-) I could simply swap the bevel gears on the sprocket axle for a larger one but I don't have any.
  3. I love tracked vehicles. They fascinate me and I love building simple RC tracked mocs. The problem is that as soon as the tracks are functional and connected to the motors I stop building and start playing, so I have a hard time finishing a moc... Last week-end after viewing a YT video about construction equipments I decided to build my old 8275 that is stored in a plastic box along most of my collection but at the last minute I went "hey, you have unused motors, track links and some DBG parts left, why not build your own ?" 3 sleepless nights later, voilĂ  ! The model is not build after a particular model but the general proportions are those of a Komatsu D155A, which is the model that inspired me the most. I wanted something simple strong and playable, with simple functions. It uses 2 L-motors fort driving and 1 for raising the blade, and a standard AA battery box as well as a V2 IR receiver for propulsion and a standard one for auxiliary function(s). Unlike 8275, I wanted the raising function to use actual linear actuators instead of levers and fake cylinders. The challenge I faced was the actuators mounting point that needed to be as close to the top of the hood as possible, but still allow room for the axle gears. The solution I came up with was to use the groove on, the back side of technic panels to accommodate the 16 teeth gears. With this configuration the motor is sitting in the upper section of the hood so the space bellow is mostly empty. I considered using it for the battery box but due to the weight of the blade the model weight was better distributed with the battery box in the back. The blade is strong enough to lift the model off the ground but due to the length of the actuators it cannot raise very high (around 3 cm above the ground), thus limiting the off-road capacities. I find the finished model quite bulky, and the colors don't help with that but they were the only ones I had enough of. It is still a WIP though, I wanted to add a ripper at the back but I didn't find a satisfying build yet. I will probably add details and optimize the construction, like I did with my truck. For instance, I'm not very satisfied with the cabin doors, so I will probably rebuild it. I will keep you up to date, in the meantime any comment or suggestion is welcome in order to improve the model ! :) The underneath : The (rather ugly) back :
  4. I just got my complete serie 20 in the mail and first thing I did as usual just after finishing assembling it was to rush on EB too look them trough your eyes (which usually makes me appreciate my minifigs even more) I was sad imagining not seeing your cool reviews anymore, but let's keep fingers crossed and maybe a serie 20 review will pop out after all... Thanks for your great work and reviews anyway!
  5. Hello, I updated some details of the truck in order to improve the overall look : First I made the wheelbase one stud longer (again ^^). It improves the overall look with a more realistic sleeper size, and it frees more space in the aforementioned sleeper, which will be handy for the second change : I needed the Buwizz for another project (RC car powered by a Buggy Motor), so I switched back from Buwizz to Power Function. Cons : - Less Power - Less Range - battery not easy to replace - had to remove the motor-driven 5th wheel lock (I was not very satisfied with it anyway) pros : - Back to 100% genuine Lego parts - physical remote control is back on the table ! <3 - Interior lighting (see below) The integration of the PF elements is better than last time, the axle sticking out of the back of the cab on the ride side is connected to the battery box switch via lift arms, and acts as an ON/OFF switch. The one on the left side is dummy and is here for symmetry purpose. The battery box being placed horizontally in the bottom of the sleeper (thanks to the longer wheelbase), there is now room for two IR receiver side at the top of the sleeper (although only one is installed). This allows to power optional functions (like trailer mechanisms) if needed. On the aesthetic side, I was not very pleased by the shape of the hood and how the panel were placed. It was a solution I came up with when working on the prototype and I never bothered to modify it afterward. It has now been fixed, and the hood shape is smoother (as you can see smoothness is important for me :D) and I like the new shape better. I also made some minor modifications here and there : - additional lights on the roof - tiles to fill the gap between the cabin's steps - all black mirrors - hand-rails near the doors - etc. Finally, last but not least, I added working LED headlights ! :D Only two of the four trans-clear stud of the headlights are lit, but I only own one set of LEDs and anyway it's not noticeable in the dark. The wires run on each side of the engine and are held in place with rubber parts si they don't interfere with the front wheels when steering. and as a bonus, thanks to the battery box LED the dashboard is lit as well ! :-) (unfortunately I was not able to take a satisfying picture). As usual, I hope you like these update, I'm already thinking about other modifications (I would like to build a more interesting trailer and maybe ad a second driving L-motor for more speed / pulling power. I will keep you guys updated ;-).
  6. I just got a new phone (xiaomi mi 9T) and the buwizz app cannot see my buwizz anymore. Did anyone had the same issue ? I contacted buwizz support by email but they weren't very helpful so far... [EDIT] : Problem solved, I had to check some boxes in the advanced Bluetooth settings of the phone ( simplified connection and display unnamed devices).
  7. As I said in my previous post I wasn't entirely satisfied with my lowboy trailer so I decided to build something else, and here it is : simple, yet efficient and durable flatbed trailer. I went for a white bed because I didn't have enough DBG panels, and It contrasts nicely with the black and gray truck. the trailer features a folding stand activated with a knob under the bed, and.... that's all (simple I said). I made the frame very sturdy and the trailer can withstand several kilograms without excessive bending nor pulling issues for the truck. It also allows good maneuverability without the trailer being too far from the back of the cab. At the end, I'm very satisfied with this version, which is very fun to play with !
  8. So the Mack parts are now ready to be used so I spent some time building this afternoon. First, as announced, I got rd of the battery box and IR receiver and replaced them with a Buwizz unit. I don't like the smartphone-control but It allows for better performance, and it's easier to integrate in the design. It also cleared a lot of space inside the sleeper so I'm currently thinking about how I could use one of the free power outlet of the Buwizz to remote control the fifth wheel lock. I also made some minor modifications to the truck in order to improve aesthetic : - Closed the back of the cab with panels - Replaced the originals air filters with brick-build ones (so they look more like the real thing and match the exhausts) - Added the printed Mack tile above the grill (it's not supposed to be a mack but it looks good) - Added a row of 1 x 2 grills at the botom of the front radiator grill (borrowed from a stored set) - Modified the mirrors (it doesn't look better but I was fed up having to constantly angle them the right way, so I just locked them in place). - Added some rear-wheel protection / mudguards - Redesigned the left side of the engine with rounded pipes to mimic exhaust pipes. And, last but not least, i started building a dedicated trailer ! :D I went for a lowboy trailer but oh, boys ! It is low ! So low that as soon as I put something on it it touches the ground when I drive... I tried to make the bed as stiff as possible but with 1 mm and a half ground clearance it's definitely too low. I think I will make a flatbed instead, very similar to this one. I was also thinking maybe I could use the last output of the Buwizz to make a trailer with a motorized function (folding ramp, dumper, ...) I hope you are still enjoying this thread, It's very encouraging for me to share all my work with you. Stay tuned.
  9. I never had heard of this movie before so I just discovered the design of the Mack RS700. I can see what you like in its rugged, old-school look but I like the sleeker, more polished look of my own truck better. concerning the spoiler, I'm considering switching from Power Function IR to Buwizz in order to get rid of the range limitation and exposed IR receiver. If I do so I will probably go for a bigger, bulkier spoiler that cover all the sleeper roof.
  10. I was lucky today ! I manage to found a second hand mack anthem at a good price...who's seller happened to be in my city ! I was able to get it without even breaking any lock-down rules, so I will be able to start working on a proper trailer once all the parts are washed and quarantined (actually I will let them dry for several days before starting building with them). As a result of this acquisition I was finally able to replace the light bluish gray panels with Dark Bluish gray ones. Now we're talking !!
  11. Hello ! I'm still working on improving my truck and today I made two little aesthetic improvements that necessitated quite an amount of work on the design... First change: Looking at pic of real trucks I noticed that the exhaust pipes should be a little closer to the cab doors, so I decided to rebuild all the back of the cab (especially the inside structure) so I can move the exhaust pipes one stud forward. I took a lot of thinking but I think the solution I came with looks pretty good. The best part is that it allowed me to extend the size of the sleeper by one stud (by adding a beam between the panels) without changing the overall size of the cab. As a result the sleeper (and the truck)'s proportion looks even better. Second change : Since I added the fake engine under the bonnet I was unhappy with the movement transmission from the actual motor. I didn't plane it when I designed the model so it was poorly integrated, with a 16T gear very visible at the rear of the cab, very close to the 5th wheel. and an axle running under the sleeper. One of the downside, beside not looking good, is that the trailer sometime touches the gear when steering... I then decided to move the axle under the truck, in order to make it more realistic and to clear the rear of the cab. The modification was not easy as I couldn't run the axle all the way to the fake engine, because the servo is in the way. I had to use gears to transmit the rotation from under the truck to over the servo, to the bonnet. As I said I did'nt plane it initially so I had to modify the frame in order to make room for the gears. The hardest part was to find a path for the servo wires that didn't touch the very close gears... I also kept the possibility to disconnect the function by sliding the axle underneath out of the connector so there is no clicking sound when I drive it around at home :-) Here is the result : And a bonus, Work In Progress : As always, comments are welcome !
  12. Thank you for the appreciation. I'm also glad I could make the exhaust pipes entirely gray and smooth. I did considered studded beams but I don't have enough available to make a descent test. Plus, I worry it would make the trailer sit too high over the rear wheels of the truck. I may give it a try though. Speaking of the trailer, I decided to go for a virtual model before buying the actual parts. This way I can try different options and setups. Soo... in order to be as accurate as possible I decided to recreate the rear part of the truck as a guide. In the end, I may have gone a little beyond ''just the rear...'' : and the rendered version : I just couldn't figure how to angle the sides of the windshield and the roof, and I added an extra row of 1 x 2 grill at the front that I don't actually have in real life... Next step : start designing a nice trailer !
  13. Ok I made a trailer to see what it would look like with the truck. It's very basic and looks crude because I used every single black and dark bluish gray beam I had left. I tried to make it versatile, so it can hold up to two 42078 sized container (I just have one), or anything else you would like to put one it... The only issue I have for now is that I used a technic ball joint on a 3L axle with stop to connect the trailer, and the ball keeps coming off the axle when I manipulate the truck with the trailer attached because the ball is just below the deck level. I could add a spacer (bush) between the ball and the trailer's deck but it would make it 1 stud higher and I think it would not look as good (I want the trailer's deck to be as close to the truck's wheels as possible). I think the solution would be to use a Technic, Liftarm 1 x 2 with Ball Joint Angled, but unfortunately I don't have one available at the moment. I like the idea of having a assorted trailer to go with the truck. I think I'm going to build a proper flatbed or drop deck (but considering the size of the wheels a dropdeck would nob be ideal...) : Unfortunately I will need more parts, and 5 x 11 technic panels are quite expensive part. I was about to make a bricklink order but I just realized I should just buy another copy of a second hand 42078 as well as it would provide me 5 times as much parts for almost the same price...
  14. Well, turns out... you were right ! :-) I made the wheelbase 2 studs longer and it look even better now ! The proportions are closer to a real truck's and the 5th wheel sits farer from the cab. The only downside is that the frame bend a little more so the rear wheels touch the ground very slightly. I had to reinforce itfrom the underside with beams and it should be better with a trailer attached. Another big change : I managed to make a full dark bluish gray bonnet with smoother sides, it really improves the overall look. Minor changes also include : bigger roof spoiler door frames that go up to the cabin roof (make the truck look bigger 2 decorative black stripes instead of one filling of the gaps in front fenders interior details with gauge panels removal of unnecessary parts here and there....
  15. Pentomind

    [MOC] Kenworth W900

    Oops I missed that information, credit will therefore go to Pipasseyoyo :-) Looking at his video I noticed that your 5th wheel mechanism is missing a 1 x 1 round plate on the 3L thin liftarm, which prevent the ball of the kingpin from sliding up out of the locking mechanism. Did you have any issue with that ? I made some tests with the trailer and it went pretty well. Plus, if I make the wheelbase longer I will increase the turning radius of the truck, which is pretty good currently.