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Found 538 results

  1. Hi Guys, Here to share my RC MODs and MOCs, wish you like them. Please comment below. Thanks! https://rebrickable.com/users/WW Bricks Studio/mocs/ [Full RC] LEGO Technic 42143 Ferrari Daytona SP3 Power functions -BuWizz 3.0 x1 -Driving: PF XL motor x2 -Steering: PF Servo motor x1 - Doors: PU M motor x2 - Engine cover: PU M motor x1 [RC] LEGO Technic 42141 McLaren F1 + 1 BuWizz 3 + 2 BuWizz Motors + 1 PU L Motor [RC] LEGO Technic 42130 BMW M 1000 RR controlled by BuWizz App [RC] LEGO Technic 42125 Ferrari 488 GTE + 1 BuWizz 3 + 2 BuWizz Motors + 1 PU L Motor [Full RC] LEGO Technic 42115 + BuWizz 3.0 / BuWizz motor / PU L & M motor [RC] LEGO Technic 42115 Lamborghini Sian with BuWizz 2.0 [Full RC] LEGO Technic 42110 + 1 BuWizz 3 + 2 BuWizz Motors + 2 PU L Motors [RC] LEGO Technic 42110 RC Land Rover Defender with BuWizz 2.0 [RC] LEGO Technic 42083 + BuWizz 3.0 / BuWizz motor / PU L motor [RC] LEGO Technic 42083 Bugatti Chiron with BuWizz 2.0 My alternative F1 MOCs were made by 42083/42110/42115, [MOC] LEGO Technic 42125 Ferrari F1 Car [RC] LEGO Technic 42115 RC Lamborghini F1 car
  2. Some might still remember this offroader I started sometime ago in 2019 and showed earlier versions in the 8081 mods thread a while ago. Well, I finally "finished" it now and created digital models for it. I call it the COMMANDO and it is "sold" by MM (Mars Motors). People that follow my Turbo Racers series and my series of 42093 scale cars with swappable engines should already know MM. To show its capabilities I made a trip to a special location and examined what it can do there. Have a look into the video to see what it possible: The configuration in this video has all axles locked and uses the drivetrain variation #2 (see below). The COMMANDO started as the glorious 8081 A model and went through lots of modifications - especially to the front and rear axles and also to the outer hull - on the way to the final result. I created three versions so far: with 1 x PF AA battery box with 2 x PF AAA battery boxes with BuWizz 2.0 ...from which the BuWizz one was used during the video and also most of the time I drove it so far. Here are a few more detailed pictures showing it in that terrain: Here are two pictures showing the chassis construction (click to magnify): ...and here are the three drivetrain variations that can be used (click to magnify) More variations are possible and the gearing can be changed with relative ease, as the motors are not an integral part of the construction: #1 is used for the PF versions and #2 is used for the BuWizz version. #3 can be used to examine the effects of open differentials in offroad situations. The COMMANDO can use various tyres and clearance should be good enough for all of them: 45982 81.6 x 38 R Balloon tyres 18450 81.6 x 44 R (Tumbler) tyres 69912 81 x 35 Tractor (Zetros) tyres I have also already designed a few addons that will be released at a later time - need to create the digital models first - and I have even more ideas for it. So far I have available: front winch rear PTO exploration gear tracks So stay tuned for additions. I hope you like the COMMANDO and I hope it is a worthy successor to the 8081 A model. If you're interested, the - free of charge - digital models (Studio files with detailed steps and submodels) and more pictures are available on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-111591/johnnym/mm-commando/
  3. I Everybody! This is an RC version of LEGO 42104 Race Truck. Motorization is controlled by pybricks program Remote Bla Bla, so controlling is done by the LEGO Handset, no need for a mobile phone device. It was fun to include a hub and two motors in such a small scale, although the driving motor is kind of outboard. At the beginning it feels a bit clumsy compared to the original set but one gets used to it. It's a cute little truck! Steering at this scale is a bit wobbly, but it works fine enough. I wonder how it would be with the Small Angular Motor for steering. Probably both motors could fit... but I don't have one. Steering motor is embedded in the chassis. Drive motor is outboard in the rear. Two configurations are presented: Simple Drive Mode: Drive motor with two modes:on and off Steped Drive Mode: Drive motor with seven power steps More pictures in bricksafe; Instructions in rebrickable; Remote Bla Bla in github; Some pictures: and a video: Have fun!
  4. In an attempt to create an RC LEGO motorbike, I had to figure out a steering method. Moving a weight from left to right was (successfully) done before, but I couldn't find LEGO bikes with counter-steering. Inspired by the videos of many real RC bike lovers, I came up with this LEGO-ish implementation. It's not for LEGO purists, it contains modified parts. But it demonstrates pretty nice how counter-steering works and how it can be implemented on a LEGO bike (using a servo). I therefore thought it might be of interest to some of you. If modifying LEGO parts makes you sick, please skip this video. If you enjoy creating new parts (out of other LEGO parts), great! Let me hear your thoughts. On this matter, I personally start to enjoy the use of custom springs more and more (will do a separate video on this subject) and ... I'd love to make a case for an axle with one ball socket. Together with a (custom) spring, can be used in almost any vehicle for suspension or anything else. Have a look at the video and you'll see what I mean. Was an essential element to create this steering. Enjoy watching, looking forward to hear your comments. https://youtu.be/AZQkJCd0VKg
  5. My entry for TC22: Wille Loader Based on Wille Machines 35L x 13W x 17H = 7735, stud^3 Features: - Drive (L-motor) - Articulated steering (M-motor + 2x linear actuator) - Bucket lift (L-motor) - Bucket tilt (L-motor) - Front and rear lights (2x LED) - LiPo-battery - 2x IR-receiver Video: More photos: Rebrickable page: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-113292/paave/wille-loader/ Sorry for being late, got really lost in time. Thanks the admins for letting me join anyway
  6. im finally done with my tank moc! i hope you like it if possible like and share it on insta & facebook (links below) it comes with a detachable trailer and a 3DOF arm thanks @thealvacado for the arm I've improved the bracing of the 8 tooth to the 40 tooth gears as they were constantly popping out also changed positioning of some things there is a 4 pin connector on the end so that its much easier to change the attachment on the end I hope you like it :) spent quite a while making this https://www.instagram.com/p/CdnoQmspEut/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet https://www.facebook.com/544771685/posts/pfbid032Jr1QQfEXsTZbEqxBUDAR7LWMGfGzE9wpor93kkCivLbZfqt3ujtvHVqyUvEDkpzl/?d=n https://youtu.be/5j2kXYvjlAM https://youtube.com/shorts/PzlFRePGSP4?feature=share https://youtu.be/X7KmZLrbvlw https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjzQeX3
  7. DRAGONFLY Dune Buggy Hello everyone! For a very long time I had a dream to build a dune buggy, and finally, my dream come true! The main goal was to use a C+ electrics instead of Buwizz unit. Of course, I am not the first who attempted to build a buggy. I take an inspiration in Madoca`s Blue Lightning buggy. Technical specifications: - Light and ridged tubular bodywork - electrics form 42099 set (controlled with C+ app for 42099) - Long-travel independent suspension - positive caster angle on the front wheels - Long wheel for stability on the straigt lines - Double steering rack and steering arms reduce wobbling of the steering system - understeering feature (rear wheels get more grip) - RC tires 90 mm Buggy performed well, comparing to the 42124 set. It appears to be a car that is very comfortable to play with. The speed of the buggy allows you to walk with your normal speed in the park driving it at the same time! Here is a small video of my first tests: As I said, the main goal of this project was to use C+ electrics. But after that I decided to boost it with buggy motors! The overview of the car does not change much. Rear wheels get a positive caster angle, and wheel size was reduced from 90 mm to 85 mm (for reducing speed and increasing torque). Here is a short video with Buwizz-powered Dragonfly. I will definitely make another video about this car then the summer comes.
  8. After 42099 and the whole new PU system, I'm here with a MOC that uses something a bit older - RC system. After all these years it is still the most powerful 100% LEGO solution. Watch it in all its glory: Features: RC drive - 2x RC motor, geared 3:1 (slower output) RC steering Front suspension - double wishbone, soft, long travel, positive caster angle, 7 stud ground clearance Rear suspension - floating axle, soft, long travel, 5.5 stud ground clearance Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. I hope you liked this model.
  9. Hey, Eurobricks! In this post I want to tell you about one of my latest MOCs, called Blue Mamba. It was made for outdoor King of the Hammers competition. Unlikely I was not able to participate in the competition this year, but I am not disappointed because it is very fun to drive this car. Main features 4-wheel drive In-axe motors (one PF L-motor for each wheel) 2 x Buwizz 3.0 units for power RC tires 97 mm Bodywork The race vehicles used at the King of the Hammers are known as Ultra 4 vehicles. This Ultra4 class is unlimited 4400, and every vehicle is custom fabricated by each team. Most of the vehicle made with metal tubular frame and plastic body panels. I tried to replicate the bodywork to match the real prototypes. Black pieces imitate a tubular frame of the car. Side panels and the hood are the structural elements of the chassis. The total weight of the car is about 1,280 grams. Half of the weight (4x PF L-motors) is located in axes, this is not good for the dynamics of the car at big speeds, but helps a lot in trial. Steering motor and Buwizz units are located in the cockpit. It is possible to lower them, so there is a reason to revisit the chassis once again. Suspension The rial race combines desert racing and rock crawling. So the Lego version of the race combines high-speed and trial sections. For good performance in trial Blue Mamba has a free articulation of a rear axe. The string are placed on the middle link, so rear axe can suspend jumps. Front axe has a limited articulation for a good control at high speed. Drivetrian Ultra4 vehicles has both powerful engine and the gearbox which allows to drive fast on straight lines and slow on rock-crawling segments. But Lego gearboxes has a significant disadvantage - a huge loss of torque. So I decide to place the motors in axes. This gives nearly zero losses, but has it`s own disadvantage: an extremal load on the CV joints which connects front motors to the wheel hubs. There is no way to deal with in without widening the wheel base and adding the portal reduction.. I hope some day Lego will make a new hubs that connects to new CV joints (without planetary reduction). In-axe motor placement provides some restrictions to the size of axes. I tried to maximize the ground clearance. Big wheels partially solve the problem. The resulting ground clearance in not big as one the cars with portal hubs has, but it is comparable to the ground clearance of cars with front independent suspension (there were several competitors with such configuration). Also it is worth noting that front and rear axes does not stick out from the side profile of the wheels, so Blue Mamba has great approach and decent angles. Control and Power The car is powered by two Buwizz 3.0 units. Powerful lego cars usually have a big problem. They can not go on a full speed for a continuous time since the driving motors consume a lot of power. I build many cars powered Buwizz 3.0 units. And I noticed that 2 Buwizz motors or 4 PF L-motors consume more power then the battery can give (in continuous drive). A good example of a car with 4 L-motors and 1 Buwizz unit is my Jeep Wrangler. To deal this problem, I places two units in the Blue Mamba. This doubles the travel range of the car and allows to drive Blue Mamba on full speed during the race. But multiple tests show that 1 Buwizz unit is enough for this car, since there are no losses in the transmission (in the first video car is powered by a single Buwizz unit). For steering a C+ L-motor is used. It is placed in a cockpit in between Buwizz units. Small scrab-radius, positive caster angle and proportional steering provide a good control of a car. Summary The competition has passed, and I there is a video on youtube: This allows me to compare my car with the other competitor cars. I would not win the race but perform good. I will look for the next King of the Hammers competition and prepare Blue Mamba to it. The following changes will be made: Buwizz units will be replaced with RC electrics The cockpit will be lowered for few studs The wheel base will be lengthened for 4-6 studs (to prevent the car from flips at high stairs in trial) I made a 3D model of Blue Mamba, but I have no motivation for making PDF instructions since Rebrickable does not work for me nowadays... Hope everything will be changed soon! Now we can only wait and play Lego!
  10. I want to build something inspired by this beast, although my yellow panel collection is rather light on, so it will be in black/LBG. Here is my progress so far: and under side shot: There is currently: 1 PU L motor for drive. 1 PU L motor for steering. And 1 PF M motor for tilting the bed using these pieces https://rebrickable.com/parts/32039/technic-axle-connector-with-axle-hole/71/ I am planning for it to powered by buwizz 3.0
  11. A new rebuild oft the drift chassis by https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-97061/Adrià Blancafort/rc-awd-mazda-rx7-drift/#details i changed the gearing: front: 16/28 open diff rear: 20/28 locked diff working steering wheel fake V10 engine lockable center diff here some pics: https://flic.kr/p/2mXc4As
  12. When I got Off Road Buggy set (42124) in my hand and saw new tyres I instantly get idea for new creation. I must make new Tatra truck. The only question it was if would be the 815 model or the new Phoenix. Then I remembered that I made my first version of Tatra Phoenix model 10 years ago and now it is the time to fix the problems of that model... This is my new model of legendary Czech brand of trucks Tatra. The model Phoenix is in trial truck version. This is full RC with Buwizz 2.0 brick and 2 Buwizz motor for drive. These motors make the vehicle very powerful (watch the video). Also the new tires give it good features and appearance. Specifications:-Full independent suspension (front axle hard springs, rear axle soft spring)-Modular desing (chassis, cab, superstructure)-Detailed interior-The door can be opend-The superstructure is not only for the design but also serves to protect the cab from tipping over 360 degree view Instructions are also available: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-85659/blaz62/tatra-phoenix-6x6-trail-truck/#details
  13. Hello Eurobrickers, Finally I am ready to present my latest MOC, the so called Bruiser Conversion of the 4-door Jeep Wrangler. The real thing is done by JK Crew, it looks like this (more awesome pictures here): The conversion includes pimped up suspension, a longer body on the rear part, turned into a pickup, and larger wheels. As for the scale, the real Jeep Wrangler has around 80 cm wheels, and the conversion has around 110 cm wheels. I thought this would be an excellent material for an alternate build from the 42110 Land Rover set because of the color match and the available parts (like those rear mudguards), and the 80 mm wheels of the Defender, and the 107 mm Lego tractor tires result in a good 1:10 scale match. I thought it would deserve the large tires and a motorization, all available in the set 42099. So I ended up with two versions: - Manual version, pure alternate build from 42110, with an optional raised geometry and large tires - RC version that is a dual alternate with 42099 I will present both versions below. They are identical on the outside, they differ in the chassis build and the gearbox / drivetrain. Manual version (42110 alternate) I wanted to build something from the Land Rover that has a more aggressive suspension with large articulation. I have been playing with the idea of 4-link suspensions on both axles, and the 8 A-arms in the set are just enough for that. However, I had to do it with short springs only, so I used similar geometry as the rear axle of Grohl's stadium truck, but with longer lower links on both axles. Furthermore, I wanted to build it in a way that works both with the stock Defender wheels, and with larger ones. So I built a chassis in a way that the springs can be positioned in two places, and the suspension geometry becomes lower or higher. Along with this, the front axle is also moved one stud to the front, to make space for the steering of the front wheel (just like in the real version). As such a suspension requires a lot of space (if you want large articulation), the actual useful space in the middle of the model becomes relatively short. I wanted to preserve the same functions of the gearbox as in the Defender, so I had to compact it. Taking ideas from the Pimp my Land Rover project I managed to create a version of it that fits into the available space, keeping the same layout of the controls. Furthermore, I have included a functional V8 engine (the real one has a V8 Corvette engine). One part that I struggled with a lot was the HoG steering, as it was quite hard to bypass the gearbox and the front seats as well. Finally I managed to do it under the seats, but I could not fit a functional steering wheel as the chassis structure that holds the front suspension was just in the middle of its way. The interior came out quite clean and also replicates the real one quite well I think. The seats are similar to those of the Defender, but I had to make them shorter, as the roof is also shorter: On the outside one key point is that the real thing (at least this version) has its doors made of steel bars (which gives it a great look I think). This is good as the Defender would not have enough green panels to build 4 doors, but the bar doors could be built (at first I did not think I could get such a clean look, but I am quite happy with the result). On the front, I reused some ideas from my Willys Jeep, but changed it to a bit more modern look. On the rear part, the fender piece was an obvious fit, and I wanted to emphasize the bed with system parts, which also came out nicely I think. At first the A and B pillars and the roof was tricky to make solid, as it is only built from a few liftarms. But the final assembly is super strong, thanks to the column in the middle that goes through the gearbox (that was a key structural element to make). The model can be lifted safely with the roof. Some side panelling was also tricky to get into place, but I am satisfied with the overall looks. The doors, the hood and the tailgate are openable. The spare wheel fits nicely in the bed. One last feature I could add thanks to the Defender parts is the front bullbar with a compact functional winch (with rachet mechanism). Here are some side-by-side images for a comparison. I think it works well with both wheel options. More info, pictures and building instructions are available on Rebrickable. RC version (42110 + 42099 alternate) For the RC version I decided to use components from set 42099 as it has everything required: XL motors for torque, heavy-duty CV joints, planetary hubs, more A-arms and hard springs for suspension and the few extra parts in black color. First of all, I wanted to motorize it in a way that I keep the interior and the functional fake engine as well. Second, I wanted to add a simplified gearbox. The placement of the battery was obvious in the bed, the steering motor would go onto the front axle, but the space required for the two (coupled) XL motors was less obvious. Finally, I could squeeze them under the rear seats, and place the gearbox in front of them into the drivetrain. As for the gearbox, incorporating a 2-speed one (hi/lo gear) was simple, but I wanted to do something more with the available parts. Finally, I managed to add an RWD/AWD switch. For this, gearbox routing is a bit tricky, going through itself through idler clutch gears, and returning later. Furthermore, the front and rear parts of the driveshaft rotate in opposing directions, which is resolved later by the proper placement of the differentials on the axles. It was really challenging to brace the whole gearbox properly so that the gears cannot skip anywhere, I had to rebuild and test it several times (those two coupled XLs have a lot of power). On the downside, I suspect the relative complexity of the gearbox add some friction to the system. As I wanted to maximize ground clearance, the front axle was tricky to build, since the planetary hubs can only be connected with ball joints when steered. For this, I applied the trick used by other as well, that slants the lower A-arms a bit, resulting in very slightly non-vertical front wheels, but it is so negligible I bet you'd never notice. The resulting axle is fairly slick, I am happy with the result. As the steering motor made the front axle higher, the functional piston engine had to be minimized as well, and I could only do a mini V6 with the available parts. Unfortunately, this small construction does not run super smooth in a V configuration (sometimes the 2L liftarms in the main shaft kind of collide into the half pins that make up the pistons for a moment, instead of smoothly pushing them up; the inline configuration with the same technique works smoother). For this reason, there is some friction resulting from driving the fake engine as well. Here is the final chassis, and one more image about the ground clearance at the rear: Although the final gearbox construction is strong enough not to let the gears skip, there is one weak link: the driving ring can move out of the clutch gear under very high torque (although in my tests the model sooner went up the wall if not blocked). This is because the gear stick does not firmly hold it in place. However, it can be solved by fixing it into one position with a linkage coming out of the center column. This issue made me think how much more powerful it could be if the gearbox and the fake piston engine was bypassed, and eventually led to the construction of a heavy-duty variant (in which the gearbox is still kept, but instead controls the speed of the fake engine, when not in neutral). The heavy-duty variant is further geared down a bit to have even more torque. It can climb almost everything if the ground clearance permits, as you can see quite a few cases in the video. A few more images about the whole model: More info, images and building instructions are available on Rebrickable. Let me know how you like it! Cheers, Viktor
  14. Good day, everyone! Each winter I hope to build some offroader to drive in snow, and each winter something goes off. Finally in 2022 I,ve finally built what I wanted - big orange snowmobile with control+ electrics and sprockets from Liebherr/ SNOWMOBILE "TRIDENT" Two main parts are the chassis and the body. Let's start with former. Front side - as it is snowmobile it is fitted with two steerable skis. Suspension consists of parallel levers with two big yellow shock absobers and two hard small shock absorbers between the levers. Suspension is strong enough to bear the weigh of control+ smart hub with 6 battries, body parts and optionally Darth Vader as the driver. Skis are 5M wide and each one has two small rubber wheels inside to add traction on smooth surfaces (with them you can steer even on smooth floor - without only on snow) front suspension has positive castor angle. Which looks cool, but required some tricky techniques to implement steering - for example - for steering I used Large Angular Motor (or simply LAM) it is in parallel with suspension levers, but connected to chassis and smarthub with angle. Next - rear part - all driving motors (2 XL) are inside the tracks. Reduction gear is 28:36 (or 1:1,29) - keeping motors inside the tracks reduces the weigh of body which is good for suspension travel. Long shock absorbers work for vertical movement of only rear part of vehicle, whereas short sh.a. are used for vertical movemnet of whole body (long sh.a. act as parallel levers) And finally - the bodywork. I think this is for now the best bodywork I've ever made for MOC - it is orange, it looks good and its reliable and rigid enough so you can grab this Snowmobile by most of it's orange sections and nothing will fall away. Furthermore, all panel are locked in places and don't wiggle at all. I've even used aquaman's trident from brickhead as mascot when I figured out that Snowmobile looks a lot like trident from above. For everything else that you need to know i invite you to watch the video: P.S. I wanted this snowmobile to look loke a fish. But it turned out to be closer to shrimp or prawn :)
  15. I build a new rc car for having fun. 😊 The body of the car is by @filsawgood, but with my own chassis. propulsion: monster motor steering: servo controller and battery by mould king lights and brake light by bricktec-lights wheels: 3d printed custom wheels from shapeways here are some pictures: And of course a short video: here are the links: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-92747/filsawgood/wrx/#details https://bricktec-lights.de Here you can see the working brake lights: IMG_0160 by Friedl St, auf Flickr
  16. Full RC Conversion of 10269 Harley Davidson Fatboy After many hours of trial and error, broken bits and gray hair I have finally a working Remote Controlled Harley. And it actually works wery well and are not more fragile than the orginal set. My goal was to create a slower motorbike that you can play with in your living room, so self balancing was not an option as this requires high speed to work. My bike runs on "training wheels" all the time that leans at the same time as the handlebar stears. Have tried my best to hide the electronics an keep it as close looking as possible to the orginal set. Motorized wtih Buwizz/CaDa battery to save space and Power Functions motors. Youtube Video Instructions available at Rebrickable
  17. After a half year of work I present you this bus.The goal was to make as functional bus as possible with least amount of motors.The result is fully RC bus with openable doors, propulsions and steering using only 3 motors. The steering angle is really good. Steered by Large angular motorPropulsion uses XL-motorDoors work smoothly & flawlessly. They are powered by L-motorPowered by C+ hub.Lots of interion & exerior details. Building and programming instructions for $9.99: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-100999 Video:
  18. So I was working on a simple rc program on my computer today with my new 51515 set and was trying to make it rc using the keyboard (up arrow=forward down arrow=reverse left arrow=left right arrow=right) But it is hard because there is no "when no key pressed" block to my knowledge. The robot I am using is THIS. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  19. Hello everyone! I know, that Christmas has passed, but i think it is not the reason to wait for the next one to show my new car. It is build on the same Chassis as my Jeep Wrangler [trial mod] Features: 4 wheel drive with locked differentials live axles suspension with 9.5 L shocks 4-wheel steering 120 mm RC tires with high grip 4x PF L-motors for propulsion PU L-motor for steering Buwizz 3.0 for power light tubular bodywork 1.15 kg of total mass (wheels are heavy!) 7 studs of ground clearance I would like to note, that this car is not a proper rock crawler due to the limited suspension travel. All this modifications took about 2-hours of build, but the car give a lot of satisfaction driving in the snow. It is capable for driving in the deep snow and climbing steep icy hills! I conclude, that this project is 100% successful! Hope you like it!
  20. Hi to everybody! It's been a while since I posted something new...so now here we are. Little prefaction, in the last year both time and motivations are dropped down, this Moc was almost ready in may 2017 and it took me a bit to find the desire to do pics video and instructions.....the instructions are not ready yet, but they are at a good point. IMG_2348 by Lucio Switch, su Flickr Now about the Moc, this is a sort of a Dakar Truck, it's a lot simpler compared to my usual Mocs, the idea behind it was to use the Claas Tires, trapezoidal panels...and don't use the parts of my Crane Truck, furthermore, to make it light (or try to do so), I added less details then usual. So it's son of a lot of (personal) compromises. It is driven by 4Xl Motors, 2 for the front axle and 2 for the rear and it's steered by a servo motor. 2 M motors are used to run the pump and to actuate a pneumatic valve. It's powered by 2 Li-Po battery and controlled by 2 SBricks. 6 pairs of Led are used for the lights. One small pneumatic pump, a pneumatic valve and 2 small pneumatic cylinders make up the pneumatic system. The truck has live axles with Anti Roll-bar, the differentials are lockable pneumatically. It has openale door, tiltable cab (with some interior details), and a door in the back to acces the battery. That's all, I hope you like it!
  21. Hello everyone! Lately, I made several posts of my finished models, some of which was build many year ago, so i cant make more photos of them and add your suggestions to the build. Today i would like to share with you my recent project. Im building (developing) an RC Buggy in big scale. Im not trying to make a version of a real one, but the general principles i follow are the same with real buggies. General principles: - independent suspension with a big travel - Rear wheel drive - big positive caster on from wheels - 2x Buggy motors for power (1 per each wheel) - lack of the body - only the structural elements... - double steering arms (for stability and stiffness) I have begun this project a month ago, but then got interrupted with some 4x4 cars (i will make posts on them later). The first prototype This car is actually closer to trophy trucks than to buggies, but nether mind... Features: - Rear drive with live axle. Long travel, soft suspension. - Dual driveshaft: Buggy motors are connected to the rear wheel independently. - McPherson front suspension, positive caster, extra steering arm for stiffness (like in 42099) - anti-row bar at the front The main goal of the first prototype was to test the McPherson setup and the gear-ratio (find a good balance between speed and torque). I made a several tests, and was very pleased with them (see videos below) but many observations has been made for the future development. Main benefit of the McPherson setup is it`s compactness, since there is only one wishbone. But it also became the problem for the car, since additional wishbone gives more ridged structure. Also all axes in transmission has a lot of plastic dust in them - Buggy motors have made their job too well! Summing up, Im very pleased with the first prototype, but the general scheme should be changed! So the development continues... Im waiting for your comments and suggestions... It is not that easy to build a thing from lego that can drive "properly". THIS SECTION WILL BE CONTINUED! ;-)
  22. Hello everyone! Im glad to introduce a new RC MOC that I build! It is not a 100 replica of Jeep Wrangler, but I was inspired by it while building the bodywork. The instruction could be found here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-93754/danil.nig/jeep-wrangler-rc/#details Features: - Universal chassis - Live axle 4-link suspension - 4 wheel drive - 4x PF L-motors for propulsion (2 for each axle) - PF Servo motor (or PU L-motor) for steering - Ackerman steering geometry (not that essential for off-roader ) - Buwizz 2.0 (Buwizz 3.0) for power - 1.5 kg of total mass, well-balanced - admit a trial mod with planetary hubs and 4-wheel steering! - >90% of parts are taken from 42110 set (except motors, new joints and few more pieces...) I have to mention, that the front of the car was taken from gyenesvi`s MOC. But I made it 2 studs wider and use my own mounting system to connect it to the custom chassis. https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-81354/gyenesvi/42110-c-model-jeep-wrangler-bruiser-conversion/ Here is the chassis of my car After taking the previous photo, I made a new body for it! Here is an official video! Hope you like it!
  23. Hello everyone, Im a new Eurobricks member and have only a few posts, some of them present my own technic creations. I noticed, that there is no possibility to see all posts of any member even in it`s personal page (correct me if I`m wrong). So, taking an example from Nico71 i decided to make a dedicated topic for myself, there i will share my lated technic creations. Main goals for this topic: Make a list of my Lego technic creations Make a brief preview of each car Give a link to a full story of development... Please, put all the suggestions and discussions into dedicated topics if possible ;-) Chevrolet Corvette [RC MOD] Features: RWD, driven by two PF L-motors PF Servo for steering Buwizz 2.0 for power some bodywork modifications ;-) Full story of the build could be found in the following topic: Fitst PF car Well, everyone knows, that to get skill you have to practice a lot... and first results differ a lot from the later one... Here is one of my first PF cars. Features: modular build (3 sections) PF L-motor for propulsion PF Servo-motor for steering Full story of the build could be found in the following topic:
  24. RC Off-roader with Dual Diagonal Drive I think I'm onto something that will get me through the winter. Summary Dual diagonal drive means: 1) having two separate drive trains with equal torque while 2) preserving the advantage of having an open distribution for cornering and 3) passing diagonal tests without using differential locks. Background I have been playing with this idea for a while already, especially after seeing @KevinMoo's dual drive models (Mitsubishi Pajero and Dual-Driveshaft Pickup). @KevinMoo rightfully addressed the vulnerability of LEGO parts in RC models and the fact that using independent drive trains for the left and right sides, loses the benefit of differentials while cornering. This got me thinking. Using independent drive trains for left and right in a 4WD model does indeed drop the benefit of differentials while cornering, but what if we would pair the wheels diagonally, so pair the left front (LF) wheel with the right rear (RR) wheel, and pair the right front (RF) wheel with the left rear (LR) wheel? The resulting 'dual diagonal drive' (I borrowed the term from the electric skateboard scene) would serve two major benefits: While cornering, the LF and RR wheels will average to a speed that is very close to the average speed of the RF and LR wheels. So not having an open distribution by means of a differential between the two drive trains is much less of a problem as with separate drive trains for the left and right side wheels. On a very uneven surface, where one or two wheels may lose contact with the ground, the wheels that do have contact are typically lined up diagonally, see image. With dual diagonal drive, the vehicle would still have traction, even without locking any differentials. Only on slippery surfaces, there are chances of spinning wheels. So this is what I'm thinking of. We start with the basic dual diagonal drive setup: Two separate drive trains, one for the LF and RR wheels and one for the RF and LR wheels. The drive trains cross using two 24t gears and an auxiliary 16t gear that sits right underneath the auxiliary axle for the other drive train. So no clutch gears are involved in this crossing. I inserted a 1L Technic liftarm inside each differential - idea from @Madoca 1977's Toyota Land Cruiser 80 - to prevent the bevel gears from popping out. Next we add a manual locking feature, which closes the differentials with a single lever. This locking feature will force each pair of wheels involved in one of the drive trains to have equal speed. Now we connect each XL-motor to one of the differentials, using a small 4-speed gearbox. That means; two separate 4-speed gearboxes. This may be a bit ambitious, we'll have to see in real-life whether this is feasible or not. I might fall back to two 2-speed gearboxes. I did pay attention to the amount of torque in the transmission though. I geared up the XL-motor outputs and geared down the transmission output. That makes the transmission spin faster with less torque. The gearboxes are operated synchronously using a 90-degree stepper, which is controlled by a Servo-motor. Each gear shift axle has its own 90-degree limiter. And finally the outputs of the XL-motors are transferred to a fake V8-engine via a normal differential. The sole purpose of this differential is to combine the XL-motor outputs for the fake engine. For the steering I'm thinking of using a servo motor. I don't really like the directness of steering with a servo-motor, but the steering link attachment points are moved one stud backwards, which confines the steering angle. This adds to better handling and protects the CV-joints in the wheel hubs. I don't know where this is going to end. I'm not even sure about the exact kind of car I will be targeting, but it sure needs to be some kind of all-rounder. Comments and suggestions are welcome.
  25. Hi everyone, Finally, I have finished a project which I was building since last September. It is the scale model of the Intrac 2011 snow blower which is/was often used in the swiss alps by the army and other communal parties. It was the aim to create another working snow blower after the success of the snow blower from last winter. The blower is powered by three buggy-motors which are all controlled by a separate Sbrick. Each track is driven by two PF XL motors. The snow blower shoot direction is controlled by two 9-volt micro motors and the height of the snow blower by one PF L motor. As power source I used two Buwizz as battery or a custom lipo battery. After a certain time in the cold I had the replace the Buwizz with the custom lipo battery. Cheers FT