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The Fiat Panda is an Italian utility car created for all needs. It's known for its simplicity but above all for its ability to do almost everything. The 4x4 version, despite the 50 hp, is capable of climbing on various types of terrain, in fact it is also used for trials (just change the wheels). I wanted to create it in a small offroad version. The design is quite similar to the real model even if with some difference like the roof. I added a front bumper with 2 PF Lights, very useful for night rides, and a winch (you can see how it works at the end of the video). 1 PF L Motor for propulsion with a 2 speed gearbox and a 4x4 transmission without differential (I added a second reinforcement gear in the rear axle). The gearbox is compact and strong enough and the winch system is connected to it. The total gear ratio is: First Gear 1:3.33; Second Gear 1:1.67. Pendular suspension for good stability on rough terrain, even if the model is not high enough to work properly :(. The rear opening hatch and the small trailer are good for transporting small loads. The old model was very squarish and very low so I had to revise it more carefully.
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I am still looking to tweak a few spots (the panel at the rear window is included in this), but mostly it is finished: 20190827_134133 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_134604 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_135244 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_134945 by Appie NL, on Flickr I don't think I mentioned this before, but the "gas" and "break" pedal function as the forward/neutral/reverse for the gearbox. If I did the math right, then the reverse gear ratio is slightly above the ratio of the 2nd, perhaps not very realistic since afaik they are usually around the ratio of the 1st, I couldn't figure out a better ratio in the space I had left for this. 20190827_134741 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_135042 by Appie NL, on Flickr The white levers with silver knobs control the windows and the black one on the dash controls the airconditioning. The lever below the steering wheel is for the lights. My aim was to have the positions for these controls as close to what they would be in a real car. Despite the roof being open, the front window levers are a little hard to reach for my big hands (especially with my left as you will see in the video below). 20190827_153707 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_135520 by Appie NL, on Flickr My attempt to recreate the "star filled heaven" roof lining of the real Phantom. These are "glitter bricks". They only come in weird colours like dark pink until a set of Harry Potter brought these light blues. I considered adding PF lights to this for extra effect, but it didn't have the desired result in terms of lightning and I didn't want to use 3rd party stuff on this build. 20190827_134306 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_134407 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_135313 by Appie NL, on Flickr Behind the back of the trunk is the gearshifter from Attika and some wires. 20190827_140703 by Appie NL, on Flickr Perhaps looks a little bright in this picture, but there's only 2 PF leds per headlight on these. 20190827_140547 by Appie NL, on Flickr And the taillights, 1 PF led each. 20190827_140944 by Appie NL, on Flickr @Attika Here's your desired belly shot I don't have the new wire holders yet from Control+ sets and not sure of these can even hold 2-3 wires in 1, so I made something myself to hold/tunnel/guide the wires. At first I wanted to completely cover up the floor and "hide" the Technic like I mostly did on the rest of the car, but decided to keep it open. And some might notice that I updated the front suspension. When I nearly finished the build it needed an upgrade to 3 hard springs, same number as the rear, since the front suspension was pretty much dead in the old configuration. And a little video to showcase the windows and airconditioning Original opening post below this point: With all the great sportcars on this forum, I felt I had to try a different approach to the "1:8 Lego supercar". Choosing this car also gave me a good excuse to add different kind of functions usually not in these kind of cars. First of all I want to say thanks to a few people on this forum for information, techniques or mechanisms they provided: @Didumos69 and @jb70 for their work on the Chiron gearbox. This model uses their efficiently build Chiron gearbox, I only tweaked it slightly further to make it shorter. Also thanks Didumos and @Erik Leppen for their information on suspension, made it easier to look for how to fix stuff. @Attika for his compact servo based gearbox stepper which I used in this model. @Jeroen Ottens for all sorts of neat techniques and tricks in his DB11. The front mounting of the suspension is very similar to his to get the engine very low like in his DB11. I am sure I forgot a few people, my apologies. So here's the current progress: WIP3Frontside by Appie NL, on Flickr WIP3RearSide by Appie NL, on Flickr WIP3Side by Appie NL, on Flickr The current features are: - 8 speed gearbox - V12 fake engine - Suspension - Electric windows - "Airco" - Lights I think, despite the outer shell being about 70% system bricks and 30% technic, the base of the car is all Technic and that it should belong in this forum and not the scale forum. This is how the car looked in the early stages: WIPRollsPhantomFront2 by Appie NL, on Flickr But if Jim or Milan thinks it should still be in the other forum, I am sure he will move it. The reason for the mostly system outer shell is because I had a hard time making all the little curves with Technic (panels) and I felt those little curves made the difference to try and capture this car. Especially at the front, after that I tried to minimize Technic panel use because it would be a breach of style at that point. Overall I am happy how it turned out so far, some parts I don't like. The windscreen being the biggest offender with how square and flat it looks, but the A-pillars being part of the structural integrity of the model made it hard to come up with something else. Stuff left to do: - Dashboard and midconsole - Front seats - Roof - Mirrors - The bottom 2 studs of the model (under the doors, bottom of front grill and the second layer of the floor to hide wires and provide more rigidity to the model)
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I made it almost a year ago, but I didn't have the time to make its presentation. It's a gearbox I made at the release of the rotary changeover catches. My purpose was to make a gearbox as compact as possible. So I decided to couple a 2 speed gearbox to a 4 speed gearbox. There are 2 advantages: firstly the gearing is more compact, and then the shift system is also pretty compact. When the changeover catch of the 4 speed gearbox makes one turn, it activates the one of the 2 speed gearbox. So to change the speeds from the lowest ratio to the highest, the 4 speed gearbox does 1; 2; 3; 4 while the 2 speed gearbox is in first gear; then the 4 speed gearbox activates the second speed of the 2 speed gearbox, and it does 1; 2; 3; 4 again. Little trick: when you make a double gearbox like this, it's important to be sure that the gears are in the right order. This means the 6th gear (2-2) must not to be lower than the 4th gear -1-4) or you cannot control the gearbox properly. So in Excel, I recreated the structure of the gearbox using cases in the calculations (for example F3*G3/F4*G4). Then I put the number of teeth of the gears I may use in the cases, and I got the final ratios of the gearbox. After some tries, I got a good result, and a perfectly controllable gearbox. To control this gearbox, I used the stepper of the Bugatti Chiron that I compacted a little bit (the piece in red). To finish, a modelization of the mechanic to have a clearer view of the gears: Finally, this is an extremly compact gearbox, easily controllable.
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Understanding LEGO 4-speed sequential gearboxes
Didumos69 posted a topic in LEGO Technic and Model Team
I finally took the time to write down the things I have come to understand with regard to LEGO 4-speed sequential gearboxes. I am receiving many questions about gearboxes and I hope these understandings can help you reason about a gearbox layout while you're building one or trying to design one. I hope this also answers a question I received from @nerdsforprez more than a year ago, which I did not answer yet. Gearbox layout Let's take a look at this 4-speed sequential gearbox layout. Black is input, red is output and orange is control. The main input is divided over a high input (black) with high input ratio and a low input (white) with low input ratio. The high input ratio is 1:1 (via a 12:12 mash) and the low input ratio is 1:2 (via a 8:16 mash). This makes for a combined ratio of (1:1) : (1:2) = 2:1 between the high and low inputs. I will refer to this ratio as the primary ratio. In fact this ratio is the ratio between the two driving rings. Both driving rings have a high output (green) with high output ratio and a low output (yellow) with low output ratio. For both driving rings, the high output ratio is 1:1 * 2:1 = 2:1 (via a 16:16 mash and a 16:8 mash) and the low output ratio is 5:3 * 1:2 = 5:6 (via a 20:12 mash and a 8:16 mash). This makes for a combined ratio of (2:1) : (5:6) = 12:5 between the high and low outputs of each driving ring. I will refer to these ratios as the secondary ratios. Rotary catch and quadrants Even though I will explain things in terms of the gearbox layout described above, the first understanding I want to address, applies to practically all 4-speed sequential gearboxes with 2 driving rings. Let's take a look at the rotary catch and driving rings from above and divide the layout into four quadrants. Each quadrant represents one of the four gears of the 4-speed gearbox. When we turn the rotary catch clockwise (seen from the left) with 90-degree steps, it will always make the following path through the four quadrants. From the path the rotary catch draws, we can see that it toggles from one driving ring to the other driving ring for every 90-degree step. So if we want to obtain a useful gear sequence (either a 1-2-3-4 sequence or a 4-3-2-1 sequence) along that path, we need to tie gears 1 and 3 to one driving ring and gears 2 and 4 to the other driving ring. Otherwise the rotary catch can never 'toggle' between subsequent gears. Now let's take a look at all distributions of the four gears over the four quadrants that meet this requirement. Starting top-left, this will produce a 1-4-3-2 sequence. Repeating the sequence will give 1-4-3-2-1-4-3-2-etc., which effectively boils down to a 4-3-2-1 sequence. Starting top-left, this will produce a 1-2-3-4 sequence. Starting top-left, this will produce a 3-4-1-2 sequence. Repeating the sequence will give 3-4-1-2-3-4-1-2-etc., which effectively boils down to a 1-2-3-4 sequence. Starting top-left, this will produce a 3-2-1-4 sequence. Repeating the sequence will give 3-2-1-4-3-2-1-4-etc., which effectively boils down to a 4-3-2-1 sequence. Starting top-left, this will produce a 2-3-4-1 sequence. Repeating the sequence will give 2-3-4-1-2-3-4-1-etc., which effectively boils down to a 1-2-3-4 sequence. Starting top-left, this will produce a 2-1-4-3 sequence. Repeating the sequence will give 2-1-4-3-2-1-4-3-etc., which effectively boils down to a 4-3-2-1 sequence. Starting top-left, this will produce a 4-3-2-1 sequence. Starting top-left, this will produce a 4-1-2-3 sequence. Repeating the sequence will give 4-1-2-3-4-1-2-3-etc., which effectively boils down to a 1-2-3-4 sequence. Surprisingly, every distribution that meets the requirement, will produce either a 1-2-3-4 sequence or a 4-3-2-1 sequence. What this tells us, is that it's enough to tie gears 1 and 3 to one driving ring and gears 2 and 4 to the other driving ring, to obtain a useful gear sequence. Nothing else matters! Primary ratio vs. secondary ratios The next understanding I want to address, concerns the relation between the primary ratio (the ratio between the high and low input) and the secondary ratios (the ratios between the high and low outputs of both driving rings). We have already seen that in the gearbox layout at hand, the high and low output ratios are the same for both driving rings. One thing we can say about 4-speed gearboxes in general, is that the ratios between gears 1 and 3 and between gears 2 and 4 need to make a bigger difference than the ratios between gear 1 and 2 and between 3 and 4. Now when we take into account that gears 1 and 3 need to be tied to one driving ring and gears 2 and 4 need to be tied to the other driving ring, and we use the same high and low output ratios for both driving rings, we can say that the secondary ratios, which constitute the ratios between gears 1 and 3 and between gears 2 and 4, need to be bigger than the primary ratio, which constitutes the ratios between gears 1 and 2 and between gears 3 and 4. The gearbox discussed in the beginning of this post has a primary ratio of 2:1 and secondary ratios of 12:5, so it meets the above requirement. Check! Swapping and reversing If we go back to the distributions we listed above, we can see that half of them generate a 1-2-3-4 sequence and half of them generate a 4-3-2-1 sequence. When we study them more thoroughly, we can see that all 1-2-3-4 distributions have a horizontally flipped counterpart with a 4-3-2-1 sequence. In other words, if we flip the distribution horizontally, we reverse the gear sequence. Example: Swapping 1-3 with 2-4 in a 4-3-2-1 sequence produces a 3-4-1-2 sequence. Repeating the sequence will give 3-4-1-2-3-4-1-2-etc., which effectively boils down to 1-2-3-4. Example: Swapping 1-3 with 4-2 in a 1-2-3-4 sequence produces a 4-3-2-1 sequence. What this tells us, is that when we mirror the gearbox layout left-to-right (top-down in the quadrants), which boils down to swapping the high and low inputs, the effect is that we reverse the gear sequence. Practical value: If you find yourself in a situation where you want to swap the upshifting and downshifting directions, simply swap the high and low inputs, like in the image above. Finally, if we take one more look at the gear distributions above, we can see that when we swap gears 1 and 3 or gears 2 and 4 in any distribution, we get a distribution with the reversed order. 1-2-3-4 will produce 4-3-2-1 and 4-3-2-1 will produce 1-2-3-4. When we swap both gears 1 and 3, and gears 2 and 4, we reverse the order twice and get again the same order. Example: Swapping 1 and 3 in a 1-2-3-4 sequence produces a 3-2-1-4 sequence. Repeating the sequence will produce 3-2-1-4-3-2-1-4, which effectively boils down to a 4-3-2-1 sequence. Example: Swapping 2 and 4 in a 1-2-3-4 sequence produces a 1-4-3-2 sequence. Repeating the sequence will produce 1-4-3-2-1-4-3-2, which effectively boils down to a 4-3-2-1 sequence. Example: Swapping 1 and 3, and 2 and 4 in a 1-2-3-4 sequence produces a 3-4-1-2 sequence. Repeating the sequence produces 3-4-1-2-3-4-1-2, which effectively boils down to a 1-2-3-4 sequence. What this tells us, is that when we mirror one side of the gearbox front-to-back (swap the high and low outputs of one driving ring), we will reverse the gear sequence. When we mirror both sides front-to-back (swap the high and low outputs of both driving rings), we won't affect the gear sequence. Practical value: If it's more convenient for the rest of your build to mirror your gearbox layout front-to-back, like in the image above, you can do so without any consequences. If it's more convenient to mirror only the left side or the right side of your gearbox layout, you need to also swap the upshifting and downshifting directions. If you want to inspect the gearbox used in this post in 3D, here it is in Stud.io format and here in LDD format. -
Hi everyone ! Today I'm glad to present my latest creation : a replica of a Le Mans Prototype, the Lola Aston Martin ! See below the result, I worked on this creation during 1,5 month : SPECIFICATIONS : - Fake V12 engine - Independent pushrod type suspensions - Steering by HOG + Working steering wheel - 4 speeds sequential transmission + paddle shifting - Rear cover articulated - Elytre openable doors DESIGN : I used this part https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=24118#T=C from 42056 Porsche to create the cockpit front curved shape. Into the cockpit you can find some details sport wheel and seat. The dashboard include speed indicator serigraphed tile but also green/red indicators to speeds shifting. Paddle shifting is created by 2 short yellow liftarms. You can notice presence of a red extinguisher ! Red and white pins indicate two sides of the paddle shifting ! FEATURES : To create the HOG, I used one couple of knobs and one couple of 16t. A friction axle avoid steering free wheeling. In other hand, doors are openable. For the rear cover, I used Nathanaël Kuipers tips to keep it open with friction like NK03 (https://www.nkubate.com/predator-supercar/) The fake V12 engine is a Crowkillers design : https://bricksafe.com/pages/Crowkillers/mini-v12 The sound it makes in functions of speeds is awesome ! Supensions pushrod system is a copy slightly modified of 8674 set. For the front pushrod I re-used Nico71 design like on his own LMP1 : https://www.nico71.fr/lmp1-racecar/ I created my own 4 speeds gearbox for this model. It's a flat design like 42056 Porsche one but there are less gears so less friction. I use blue rubber for the 90° indexor. See how its works in the video bellow. Ratios (without diff) : 1 : 1:1 2 : 1:1,667 3 : 1:3 4 : 1:5 I put a paddle shifting in the back of the car to up and down gearbox speeds. I re-designed 42083 shifter to make it smaller. MODULARITY : Main assembly is easily operate by a modular design. There are 6 modules and 2 structural elements. Cockpit itself is a part of main structure. I choose this kind of design in order to make instructions in the future. VIDEO : INSPIRATION : I'm sharing links of creations that somewhere gave me ideas for my Moc : https://www.hellobricks.com/2017/01/porsche-919-le-mans/ https://pikdo.biz/p/kimkamza/2048722475702589051_176999168 https://www.flickr.com/photos/158776396@N06/32215776147/in/album-72157676668829937/ https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/138348-porsche-962-c-le-mans-racer-in-185/ http://www.techlug.fr/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=10823&start=45 I hope you'll like it See full HD gallery on Flickr : https://www.flickr.com/photos/147164115@N07/albums/72157712427943327/with/49298358508/ See you !
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I loved the building process for the 3T Sports Sedan so much that I started another car. The 3T car needed a friend, and like every car maker who creates a competent sedan and follows it up with a CUV, I will too. Nope. I'm making a sports car. Again, this will be a mid-scale manual sports car with following features in order of priority: Suspension Rear wheel drive HOG steering Steering wheel Sequential 4 speed transmission (currently this one, thanks @Didumos69) Mid engined Flat 4 Discrete gear-change function Design language similar to the 3T Here is the first draft with a Porsche Cayman in the back of my mind, and you'll note a couple of problems already. The suspension is set, and will not change much. The hardpoints are also set, so the wheel base will not change, the rear overhang, height, and width will not change, and the seat and steering wheel placement will not change. Everything else may require some shifting, such as the length and front overhang, and internal placement of components. I do not like the HOG placement, and connecting the steering wheel is going to cause some problems at this point. So I could move the transmission back to the center of the car, and connect the steering wheel and place the HOD on the dash. I could also move the engine behind the rear axle which could lower it by one stud, and bring 6 pistons. But then there is no way this does not finish as a 911. What do you think. Move the engine to the back? Or keep the cabin of the car cluttered with steering and drivetrain parts? I do not have a solution for the changeover yet, so will be coming once I know where everything is placed.
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The idea of @nicjasno in for a gearbox can be improved as follows. There is no need for a 24 or 28 gear with clutch: the setup can be built as (two axles) 28-24-(20 with clutch)-clutch-(16 with clutch) (16 with clutch)-clutch-(20 with clutch)-24-28. For these gear combinations, a distance of 44/16=2.75 studs is desired. By using the above configuration, there is a distance of sqrt(2^2+2^2) or approximately 2.828 studs. This can be improved by xx -> 1 x 2 technic brick with 2 holes with axle at the left xxxx -> 1 x 4 technic brick with axle at the right. Then the distance is sqrt((3*2/5)^2+2.5^2) or approximately 2.773 studs, which is much closer to the desired 2.75 studs and then the gears run much smoother.
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I decided to UP the things with my take on the 8081 modification contest. Here's what I came up with: Driven and steered front axle with homeage to the original design Tandem live rear axles working on a simillar prnicipal as the front axle Differential lock Two speed gearbox Working steering wheel You can see a sneak peek of the progress made in LDD:
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[MOC] F1 car 2019 spec in Red Bull colour scheme, 1:8 scale
Appie posted a topic in LEGO Technic and Model Team
So here's the latest project I have been working on. I am actually waiting for 5 parts to arrive (4 tiles on the "boomerang" at the bargeboards and the exhaust in flat silver instead of LBG), but otherwise it is finished. I tried to recreate a F1 car with 2019 specfications with "typical" Red Bull stuff in mind (rake and pullrod in the rear for example). I took some liberty here and there. All the freaking winglets on these cars in real life+Technic=meh. So I went for a pretty basic flow of panels and wings. Another reason I also took some liberty was because trying to find blueprints or other good images for size reference of the 2019 or even 2018 cars were hard to come by for any of the teams. Or I just suck at searching, but I'd find it understandable if it is actually hard to find, since teams wouldn't want that stuff public. 20190921_135837 by Appie NL, on Flickr Functions are: - 8 speed gearbox (used didumos' and JB70's revised Chiron gearbox again, that I made 3 studs shorter again) with V6. - HOG steering through the T-cam and working steering wheel - Pushrod suspension front, pullrod in the rear - Had to sacrifice the driver's seat for a very basic gear selector mechanism due to lack of space elsewhere. 20190921_135940 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190921_140038 by Appie NL, on Flickr The point at which the nose goes from angled to flat is too far towards the front of the car compared to real life, as the curving point tends to be right above the axle of the wheels. I am aware of this, due to the suspension setup in that section this was the best I could do. 20190921_140228 by Appie NL, on Flickr The diffuser isn't looking too good from this angle, the only good angle is looking right into the rear of the car. Couldn't figure out a better one with the limited mounting options in that section and the diff+suspension. 20190921_140301 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190921_140342 by Appie NL, on Flickr In case you were now going: This belly shot sucks! Got you covered! (pun intended :D) 20190921_140422 by Appie NL, on Flickr I wanted to make a similar floor at first for my Rolls too, but dropped it because I am not going to be flipping that model very often to show the belly. And having to uncover it too after flipping, would be troublesome on that model. 20190921_140610 by Appie NL, on Flickr Close-up of the pullrod suspension in the rear and my crappy DRS system. Due to lack of space to route some controls for DRS to the cockpit with a diff, suspension, V6 and gearbox blocking alot of the way, I opted for this instead. 20190921_140645 by Appie NL, on Flickr Should have angled this pic more on the cockpit, but oh well. T-cam for HOG, yellow knob gear in the headrest is to flip the gears. 20190921_140956 by Appie NL, on Flickr Since Red Bull is known for the rake they have on their cars I had to mimic that too. It's a small angle, but it's there and pretty close to real life I think. In case you wonder, the car weighs about 1.7kg. -
Hey everyone, Here's my newest MOC, the Audi Quattro group B rally car. Hope you guys like it! Final by Teo's Technic, on Flickr It has -working steering with servo motor -4x4 drive with 2 x L motors and independent suspension -two speed RC gearbox -headlights -opening doors and hood. DSC06195 by Teo's Technic, on Flickr DSC06203 by Teo's Technic, on Flickr Final2 by Teo's Technic, on Flickr DSC06198 by Teo's Technic, on Flickr
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After a long and difficult builing proces, the project is finally done. The project started in early may, when I created a WIP topic here on EB. In the end, I set the bar a little bit too high as I was not able to get all the desired features inside. Audi S3 quattro Specs: - Dimensions: 44x19x14 studs (L x W x H) - Weight: 1300g - Estimated part count: 1800 parts - 4 PF motors Features: - Opnable doors and bonnet - Ajustable seats (2x HOGs) - All wheel/quattro drive with three differentials (2x PF L motors) - Steering (PF Servo Motor) - 4 Speed sequential gearbox (PF servo motor) - BuWizz 2.0 Power - Complete detailed interior with no mechanics/electrics visible I tried to use as many panels as possible which is IMO essential to get the best looking bodywork. This model consists of 45 technic panels. The stepper mechanism (located underneath the roofspoiler) used for the gear shifting is increadibly simple and works very well. The chassis is very stiff. the car can easily be lifted from the roof without damaging anything. To open the bonnet, you need to tilt and pull it at the same time. The LBG pin/axle connector slides trough the 5L axle with stop when you pull the bonnet. This system was necessary, beceause othewise the bonnet would have interference with the dashboard. Like in most of my other builds, I pay a lot of attention to the interior. I never want mechanisms visible or motors inside. You will find many details in the interior, like a handbrake, steering wheel, gear lever and door handles. When you pull the red part in the center up, the buwizz turns on/off. Too bad that the center dail which is placed upside down though. The seats can be ajsuted forwards and backwards by rotating the tan 20th gear. It is a very simple setup consting of a few gears, a worm screw and a 1x7 technic gearrack on which the seats are mounted. The building proces may be very interesting to read (if you have not seen it yet). Many interisting ideas and suggestions were posted that are not shown in this model. For instance, it should originally feature (air)suspension, but due to the airleaks and absence of differentials, it couldn't take corners propelry enough. Thanks to everyone who helped me with this build! You can check it out here: I wanted to make a video of it today, but my buwizz onstantly cut off power so give me a few more days... I won't make instructions, beceause I am busy working on intructions of another model which I will show this year as well. I hope you like it. Comments, feedback and constructive critisism are as always highly appreciated!
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Yes, yes yes... I am going to build another Audi After a very good result of my previous Audi, I thought with those design parameters I can't make a better car. Therefore I wanted to do something different, yet similar. I am going to scale up (slightly), and add a bunch of new features. I also realised that performance of the result won't be comparable to the previous one. The main reason for that is, that I am not going to use buggy motors. I recieved many questions like: "can I build it without expensive buggy motors?'' . I will be using these wheels: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=41896c04#T=S&O={"iconly":0}. I want the car to be 19 studs wide and have a wheel base of around 25 studs. The design parameters are: All wheel drive (quattro) with a central differential and without diffs on the axles. Front and rear independent suspenion. 50-50% (or close) weight distribution Servo steering (perhabs with steering wheel) Driving using two L motors 4 speed sequentail gearbox (servo operated) A good looking bodywork that reflects modern Audi's A good looking interior without any electronics/mechanisms visible Funcionality does not compromise for aesthetics (previous version is a great example) BuWizz power I allready have made some progress on the front axle. This is the result of many hours of puzzeling. It meets the requirements mentioned above. The buwizz is located behind the front axle and underneath the future dashboard. Axle for driving runs underneath the buwizz. I used these parts for the steering rack. It is connected to an eight tooth gear. On the same axles sits a 16 tooth gear which connects with the 20 thooth gear connected to the servo. The turning radius is great. I used these parts to stabilize the CV joints The next step will be to design the gearbox and rear axle. They will be integrated to save space. Comments, questions and feedback are highly appreciated!
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After completion and playing with the Leopard for a few months, I noticed the model had a few shortcomings which I wanted to eliminate with this version. These include: Suspension oscilations at high torque High center of gravity Instability on rough terrain at high speeds Most of these issues were due to the usage of the torque tube suspension which is simply too heavy and unresponsive at high speeds. What I needed was to replace the live axle suspension with independent suspension while keeping the articulation needed for offroading. Here's what I came up with: Let's break down the suspension to it's basic components to better understand how it works: Colored green are the main shock absorbers. These caryy most of the wight and provide a high suspension travel Colored orange are the gearbox transfer arms which fix each perpendicular gearbox firmly to the suspension, thereby reducing friction and fixing the U joints to keep them from popping out. Colored black are the side beams which help guide the transfer arms and hold the suspension together Colored in red and gray are the two independent drivelines powering the wheels. Finally in transparent, the suspension arms are made as long as possible for maximum suspension travel. I built the first version with this setup, but soon discovred a flaw. The torque from the drivelines would push the suspension arms down, causing the suspension to stop responding (indicated with red and grey arrows in photo above). In order to solve this problem I added the suspension bridge above, colored in pruple. The suspension bridge performs the following functions: Compensation of the driveline torque Supports 20% of the model's weight Improves articulation when going over rough terrain With the suspension solved, I turned my attention to the chassis. I wanted a model with high torque and high speed. To achieve that I installed a two speed gearbox for each independent driveline powered by a total of 4 RC motors: Finally a very sturdy chassis based on frames was built to support the model. Each axle was given it's own independent steering with servo motor and each driveline has an M motor for switching gears. This redundacy means that even if half of the model breaks down, it can still drive back home. Next step was building the model in real life. Thanks to ForwART's custom stickers the exterrior really came to life: The doors can be opened, revelaing two seats and the steering wheel: Each wheel has over 6 cm of wheel travel, allowing the Tiger extreme articulation rivaling live axle setups: And let's not forget the most important photo of them all: Finally, since there is only so much I can tell in words, enjoy the video experience: As usual the LDD file of the model is available by clicking the photo or link below: https://www.bricksafe.com/files/Zblj/tiger-4x4x4/Tiger 4x4x4.lxf To summarize, compared to the previous Leopard, the Tiger has the following improvements: Improved stability due to the independent suspension and low chassis Higher top speed due to the gearboxes Eliminated suspension oscilation Improved performance at high speed thanks to lighter and more responsive independent suspension Improved maneuverability thanks to all wheel steering Sadly there are also a few drawbacks which I plan to fix in the future version: When pushing the model hard in Ludicrous mode and in low gear the 12 tooth bewel gears can get damaged and need to be replaced Low steering angle (18 degrees) Because only one servo motor is used per axle, steering is more prone to be bumped out of center.
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I think, it would make sense to open a new thread for the Unimog 8110 U-400, that includes all the MOCs, changes, improvements on the Unimog. It should also contain all the new attachments, equipments, that people build. It should show their ideas and what they are creating for this cool set. I am looking forward to see your creations! I'll start today. I implemented a pneumatic driven cargo bed. It is driven by the original motorized pump and works pretty well. The lifting angle could be better. So there is still room for inmprovments. For more pictures of this MOC plesae vistit my Flickr-page or (after publishing) my Brickshelf-folder. Regards, Gerhard
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Dear friends! Finally, I started to clean out my MOC closet, which has been gradually filling up the last two years and somehow, I couldn't get myself to empty it. The first of more-to-come skeletons to fall out of it is this TATRA T813 KOLOS in truck trial version, that I have built almost a year ago for our LUG’s annual 14th truck trial race “KockeTerenci”. I got inspired by this little canary on steroids: This is my biggest truck so far, that is actually capable of tackling some terrain. The dimensions are as follows: l / w / h = 65 cm / 19 cm / 25 cm or 81 / 24 / 31 studs. It is a bit to narrow for my liking, but one of our TT race rules states, that gates on track are 30 studs wide, so I went for a fitter width. Truck weighs slim 3,3 kg with 2 AAA battery boxes, with Buwizz a little less. It is a bit front heavy as the cabin weighs more than 0,35 kg+ the steering mechanism protrudes a bit into the cabin. Some photos of exterior before further babbling… I tried both PF and Buwizz for power, which one did better is obvious… I hereby thank @imurvai for BrickController application – it was a pure joy using it. Truck features 8x8 drive with typical TATRA suspension and single drive shaft where left and right half axles are misaligned for half a stud, similar as IRL. Fatso is driven by two PF XL motors that are hard-coupled on a two-speed gearbox, which is a modification Sariel’s linear heavy-duty transmission and is placed between the 2nd and 3rd axle. It is remotely controlled with a small linear actuator driven by a PF M motor between 3rd and 4th axle. Total gearing in 1st gear is 23.2:1 and in 2nd gear 8.3:1. 1st gear is pretty sluggish but does the job well and the 2nd gear is good only for rather flat terrain with minor bumps. Unfortunately, I ran out of place for hiding the motors inside the chassis so not to good looking from above but the body covers them well from the side. I had to rebuilt and modify the gearbox a couple of times, bracing each pair of gears as close to them as possible. Previous versions of gearbox resulted in some ABS abuse as you can see on photos below . Front two axles are steered by an L motor which also turns the steering wheel in the cabin. Steering mechanism is a modified 2 axle steering system from Madoca’s Tatra T813 which is some studs wider than my version. Below the cabin there is a working mini fake V12 engine with fan (original design by @jorgeopesi). The cabin has two seats, some gauges around the steering wheel, and fake shift stick. As you can see, I had to make front axle suspension pretty stiff due to heavy front of the truck. There are three pairs of hard spring shock absorbers on 1st axle, two on 2nd and 4th axle, and one pair on 3rd. When there were only two pairs of shocks on front axle, the truck was sagging pretty bad. And now (IMO the highlight of this MOC) to stickers. The truck is full of them, as is the real truck. I searched the web for some that I found cool and funny. Stickers were printed on plain white sticker sheet and some on a transparent sticker sheet for laser printers. The latter took some colours very well and some not – especially red colour pealed off rather quick, which made the rad claw marks look old and worn out which turned out even better. I find it quite hard to tear it apart as I am very pleased with how it turned out. In addition, teardown is being postponed continuously because the transparent sticker sheet leaves some glue spots on bricks and I haven’t found the right mood to clean them. I hope you don't mind, if I point them out... A funny thing with those septic tank cleaners - on Facebook,a guy from Republic South Africa comes out and says he sees trucks of this company all the time as they have HQ in town next to him - small world isn't it? I hope they don't mind some extra commercial . To end, here are some more photos from the beast’s natural habitat and a video of course. In order for you not to fall asleep, I sped up some of the footage. I also apologise for some part of the video being a bit on the lower side of quality - it comes so that my cellphone is practically all my shooting gear. Thank you for your time reading this and I hope you like it. I am looking forward to your thoughts and comments. Fire away. Higher resolution photos can be found in my BrickSafe folder. Best regards, Miha P.S.: In case someone wonders, how I did on the race – see photo of competition below. Mine is that small yellow fella in the middle. As you can imagine, I was no match for those small and fast woodpeckers
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Gearboxes With New Orange Selector & 20z Clutch Gear
BusterHaus posted a topic in LEGO Technic and Model Team
The new parts in 42083 have opened the doors to some new gearbox designs. I saw that @Didumos69 and @Erik Leppen have started working out some potential designs, I think it would be good to have these new gearboxes collected in a single topic. @Jim or @Milan If you think this should be merged with a different topic, please do so. * * * Here is a design that makes it easy to visualize the gear ratios. It's far from compact, but the ratios are well spread out with only one overdrive gear. Yellow - control Green - input Red - output -
Hello, I present here a small agricultural tractor. The origin of this model is simple. It has an educational value. I used the subject to begin explaining to my son the basic principles to achieve his own models. The purpose was therefore to explain to him the following principles: - Steering rack, steering wheel. - How does a pendular axle work? - The U-joint how does it work? - Differential utility, - Realization of a simple transmission, - How to properly cross a transmission axle and a steering shaft, - What is a gearbox? ; simplified application in on / off mode for a function. There were finaly lots off things to explain. And the result is a nice tractor, playable simple to build. Here it is : About the design, we are on a MF235 base or something like that, (it's not really important;) Some other views: The rear linkage is three-point type, the PTO is in the central position, offset from the wheel axle for realizing a transmission axle with the gearbox wich is located under the steering wheel and allows to put the PTO on/off. Closer: The lifting is carried out by means of a simple mini-cylinder controlled by a crank located on the left side of the tractor: The hood is openable, of course, and we have a small engine L3 in direct drive on the differential of the rear wheels: We added some details, such as a pseudo oil gauge: Small zoom on the PTO control, under the steering wheel: The front axle is pendular (thank you to the neighbor who showed it in real life to my son), a view of the driving position, with the high exhaust pipe , in order to not 'Gaz' the farmer :) And finally the traditional view from below or we somewhat sacrificed the possibilities of crossing by installing the mini-actuator, but ...Who cares? In the end this Moc comes back to me rather well, it fulfilled its first role;) What else? Steph.
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[MOC] Manual 5+R gearbox with realistic controls (linkage)
Rudivdk posted a topic in LEGO Technic and Model Team
Hi everyone, I have already posted this gearbox in the Gearbox collection thread started by Didumos69, but now that I have finished the instructions (as promised@mocbuild101, here you are :-)) I thought it would be a good occasion to start a specific thread on this gearbox. I am currently working on a MOC which has this gearbox implemented (will start a topic for that one in the near future as well), for which I had some specific requirements: I wanted manual operation on standard LEGO 5+R configuration, but with a gearstick that would pivot in all directions from a single point (like in real car). Apart from that, I wanted a center console that was not more than 5 studs wide, so the gearbox had to be moved away from the gearstick. I took my inspiration by Thirdwigg's 6speed gearbox from his Cadillac ATS supersedan, Crowkillers 4speed gearbox from his Asassin X19 and the 5+R gearbox from Nathanaël Kuipers' Predator. I ended up mixing them all with some inspiration from the 42054 Claas steering mode selector as well. Note: the version in the instructions is using the new DGB driving rings and red clutch gears, they actually give a more solid build (when I shot below pic and vids I had already used mine in aforementioned MOC, so I converted it to the old rings and wheels. Works fine as well, just a bit less solid). Manually operated Direct operation special features: single pivot point for gearstick, linkage to gearbox, fits in 3studs wide center console number of gears: 5 forward, neutral and reverse Here's some vids (apologies for noob quality...) and the instructions: Gearbox in action Shifter linkage system in action Instructions PDF Enjoy and let me know what you think of it. -
This is an attempt to start collecting gearbox designs in a single thread. To get started, feel free to add existing gearboxes, but please always add a reference to the original designer. Also be sure to add some information on designer motorized or manual sequential or direct special features like paddle shifters and number of gears, e.g. 5+R. That will also help me in making an index in the OP. Or even better, if it can not be classified along these lines from the entry here, I will not add it to the index. Thanks!
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Over the past couple of months, I have very much enjoyed many of the build threads that have taken place on Eurobricks. Of note was the excellent Hammerhead thread by @Didumos69 where the build kept improving in no small part because of the feedback given by so many. In this same vein, I wanted to embark on a less ambitious project. I'll try to update as often as I can. The project is a manual sports sedan in mid-scale. Features (at this point, in order of priority): Four wheel independent suspension Rear Wheel Drive Steering (Steering Wheel, HOG) Four Doors Flat 6 Opening Bonnet Opening Trunk Toddler Safe Transmission Current Progress Basically, the dimensions are set, and the suspension will not change much. Now I'm working on a transmission, which I have not decided if it will include. A manual gearbox puts the shifter a little too high for the scale, and this sequential will fit, but the changeover location is not great, either forward or rear. I'll update this again tonight, and see what I can figure out.
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The Gearbox I have been playing about with some sequential gearbox ideas over the last year trying to work out how to get more than 4 gears out of the 42056 style gear system, and more importantly with realistic ratios between the gears. I thought that I was getting somewhere and decided that it was finally time to build a new car around this new gearbox, however, the first iteration gearbox was not up to scratch, so I put it to one side, spent last summer working on my house, and came back to it in the autumn determined to make it work. The other key design aspect was that this all had to fit within a 1:10 scale model, with the engine not mounted ridiculously high. The solution I came up with has a lot of gears in it (mostly idlers) but it works well, and is geared so that 1st gear doesn't just lock up the rear wheels when the car is pushed along. This version has reverse, neutral and 5 forward gears. 1st-2nd - 1.667 step ratio 2nd-3rd - 1.333 step ratio 3rd-4th - 1.250 step ratio 4th-5th - 1.200 step ratio The Supercar This time I decided that it would be my own design, but there were a few ideas from a few real cars that influenced the outcome, the car also adapts and builds on some ideas presented in other recent MOCs such as the gear shift/selector by Didumos69, Here are some pictures.
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Since a little moment, I wanted to make a Citroën DS for 2 reasons: This car has a very particular design and it had an innovative mecanic It has not prevously been made in Technic. So I can be the first! ^^ I wanted to reproduce all the features: Suspension Steering with the headlights moving with the wheels Height adjustment using pneumatic (Just up/down, not intermédiary) Gearbox (not defivitive yet, see below) Openable hood, trunk and doors Perhaps the body will be detachable (like the Nico71's 2CV) And a nice design! Actually, I did the chassis. It is not finished, but almost. And it was very complicated to make, this chassis! On the real car, almost all the macanic is in the front part of he car (under the hood). The problem is that it's not really possible in Lego, furthermore I wanted a chassis' height of 3 studs. So, I put the gearbox in the back of the chassis. That is working, but it's not realistic. So can you answer this question: do you like this construction, or do you perfer that I try to put a 2 speed gearbox just under the engine? Here, you can see the headlights moving with the wheels: It's simple, but we don't see that on supercars. There is not HOG yet. I don't know if it will be the steering wheel only, or if there will be one other on the dashboard. The chassis height adjustment allows almost put it down. The suspensions are soft. They give to the car a "boat" effect. And the gearbox: It is linked to the front wheels, but not actually to the engine. I wanted a DBG body, but the parts don't exist in this colour. So, it will be white. Tell me what you think about this begining!
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Hi all, Here is my next project. First i would like to say that this is shot as a really early design stage. This is the first rush on that project. I do command from TLG the new orange selector for gearboxes. I do not received them actually. My first impression when seeing them for first time was that they were designed and intended to fit into a bike gearbox. That it was their reason of existing. And, as you always have better following your very first inspiration I do began the work on this project. Pictures! First, the main frame. As it do exist multiple sorts of frame I choose one who is the less conventional in a sense for a Lego model: This frame offer many advantages on a scale model, the main one is to free a maximum of space for the mechanics. Other view: The challenges are quiet hard on this project. As for many small MOCs the smaller they are, the most compact mechanics has to be and hardest is the designer's job. I am not a designer and even not engineer so i'll try do do my best to reach my goals with the best result I can. Here are my (hopefully) goals: - Superbike inspired - 4 speeds gearbox, with, if possible but I do not figure out on how, a neutral point correctly positioned between first and second speed. - Shifter commands like the real machines ... On design point of view, those bike are often fully careened . I do not think this will be the best choice for a technic model, as it would be great to have a full look at mecha inside. Here are the very first rushes on design: As you can see on the pictures below, there are still so much work to do.... For those who follow my workflow, you will understand my working method. I will now rebuild a second model independently of this one. I think I must begin by the engine part included gearbox setting and stepper commands. If you have any opinion idea or experience on this subject, feel free to post your stuffs and inspiration. Good sunny day all !
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The Koenigsegg One:1 was introduced in 2014. Seven examples, including one prototype, were built during 2014 and 2015. This was one of the most exclusive production car programs ever envisaged in the car industry. The hp-to-kg curb weight ratio is an astonishing 1:1. This has been called the “dream” equation, previously thought impossible when it comes to fully road legal and usable sports cars. The One:1 is the first homologated production car in the world with one Megawatt of power, thereby making it the world´s first series produced Megacar. More on the One:1 at http://koenigsegg.com/one1/ This car grabbed my attention about a year ago so I decided to try to build it. The design parameters that I want to achieve include the following: Replicate the rear triplex suspension set up of the Koenigsegg One:1 as closely as possible Replicate the front suspension set up Syncro dihedral door hinges which are typically Koenigsegg Paddle shift gearbox - a new challenge for me. A good approximation of the real car with the bodywork. Tough enough to withstand my young three year old playing with it. Intuitive enough for my kids to explore the functions. After a long build process and lots of experimentation I am really happy with the end result. The paddle shift gear box ended up being 3 speed plus reverse mainly due to space restrictions and also complexity. Perhaps a future project will be to expand this concept to include additional gears. The paddle shifts at the steering wheel are aesthetic in that they are linked to the actual manual shifters which are camouflaged on top of the dashboard, but it is not really possible to exert enough force on the dash paddles to change gear. This is presented in the images below and in the CAD image. Over time I will digitise this and add a bit of video to show the functions, but first, here are some pictures. [TBC]
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What with a certain company ripping off my Koenigsegg One:1 and making a pretty bad job of it at that if you have seen some of their marketing photo's where the flex axles bend into strange shapes. Also due to the fact that my own Lego version started to look a bit shabby when parked next to the more recent Ultimatum GTR V10, i decided to do a major upgrade, basically start over, but this time without trying so hard to replicate the real Koenigsegg, but rather with the aim of making a Koenigsegg based car that is designed more with the aim of making it look good in Lego Technic (we will see how that turns out!) I will be aiming to replicate the Koenigsegg suspension, slight tweaks to my previous rear suspension and a major improvement to the previous front suspension to make it stiffer. I am looking at a combination of my previous 3+R (fake) paddle shift gear box from the Koenigsegg, and the Ultimatum's improved 5+N+R. I have already designed a compromise 4+N+R to fit under the 8 cylinder engine. I just have to work out the shifter mechanism. The engine will be 1 stud lower than the previous Koenigsegg The doors MUST use the same mechanism as the previous Koenigsegg, but I am looking to change the method to actuate them. The roof needs to be at least 1 stud lower than previous (that was my main issue with the bodywork of the previous Koenigsegg when standing it next to the Ultimatum) and here I may move slightly away from the real Koengsegg design, I will see where it all takes me. Again it will be 1:10 scale or thereabouts as I am not yet that inspired to work at 1:8 as I like the challenge of less space to work with. The back end is in progress, and while it looks similar to the previous Koenigsegg, virtually every part has been re-designed and I think significantly improved, so far, I am having fun.
