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Hello, I present here a small agricultural tractor. The origin of this model is simple. It has an educational value. I used the subject to begin explaining to my son the basic principles to achieve his own models. The purpose was therefore to explain to him the following principles: - Steering rack, steering wheel. - How does a pendular axle work? - The U-joint how does it work? - Differential utility, - Realization of a simple transmission, - How to properly cross a transmission axle and a steering shaft, - What is a gearbox? ; simplified application in on / off mode for a function. There were finaly lots off things to explain. And the result is a nice tractor, playable simple to build. Here it is : About the design, we are on a MF235 base or something like that, (it's not really important;) Some other views: The rear linkage is three-point type, the PTO is in the central position, offset from the wheel axle for realizing a transmission axle with the gearbox wich is located under the steering wheel and allows to put the PTO on/off. Closer: The lifting is carried out by means of a simple mini-cylinder controlled by a crank located on the left side of the tractor: The hood is openable, of course, and we have a small engine L3 in direct drive on the differential of the rear wheels: We added some details, such as a pseudo oil gauge: Small zoom on the PTO control, under the steering wheel: The front axle is pendular (thank you to the neighbor who showed it in real life to my son), a view of the driving position, with the high exhaust pipe , in order to not 'Gaz' the farmer :) And finally the traditional view from below or we somewhat sacrificed the possibilities of crossing by installing the mini-actuator, but ...Who cares? In the end this Moc comes back to me rather well, it fulfilled its first role;) What else? Steph.
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Gearboxes With New Orange Selector & 20z Clutch Gear
BusterHaus posted a topic in LEGO Technic and Model Team
The new parts in 42083 have opened the doors to some new gearbox designs. I saw that @Didumos69 and @Erik Leppen have started working out some potential designs, I think it would be good to have these new gearboxes collected in a single topic. @Jim or @Milan If you think this should be merged with a different topic, please do so. * * * Here is a design that makes it easy to visualize the gear ratios. It's far from compact, but the ratios are well spread out with only one overdrive gear. Yellow - control Green - input Red - output -
Dear friends! Finally, I started to clean out my MOC closet, which has been gradually filling up the last two years and somehow, I couldn't get myself to empty it. The first of more-to-come skeletons to fall out of it is this TATRA T813 KOLOS in truck trial version, that I have built almost a year ago for our LUG’s annual 14th truck trial race “KockeTerenci”. I got inspired by this little canary on steroids: This is my biggest truck so far, that is actually capable of tackling some terrain. The dimensions are as follows: l / w / h = 65 cm / 19 cm / 25 cm or 81 / 24 / 31 studs. It is a bit to narrow for my liking, but one of our TT race rules states, that gates on track are 30 studs wide, so I went for a fitter width. Truck weighs slim 3,3 kg with 2 AAA battery boxes, with Buwizz a little less. It is a bit front heavy as the cabin weighs more than 0,35 kg+ the steering mechanism protrudes a bit into the cabin. Some photos of exterior before further babbling… I tried both PF and Buwizz for power, which one did better is obvious… I hereby thank @imurvai for BrickController application – it was a pure joy using it. Truck features 8x8 drive with typical TATRA suspension and single drive shaft where left and right half axles are misaligned for half a stud, similar as IRL. Fatso is driven by two PF XL motors that are hard-coupled on a two-speed gearbox, which is a modification Sariel’s linear heavy-duty transmission and is placed between the 2nd and 3rd axle. It is remotely controlled with a small linear actuator driven by a PF M motor between 3rd and 4th axle. Total gearing in 1st gear is 23.2:1 and in 2nd gear 8.3:1. 1st gear is pretty sluggish but does the job well and the 2nd gear is good only for rather flat terrain with minor bumps. Unfortunately, I ran out of place for hiding the motors inside the chassis so not to good looking from above but the body covers them well from the side. I had to rebuilt and modify the gearbox a couple of times, bracing each pair of gears as close to them as possible. Previous versions of gearbox resulted in some ABS abuse as you can see on photos below . Front two axles are steered by an L motor which also turns the steering wheel in the cabin. Steering mechanism is a modified 2 axle steering system from Madoca’s Tatra T813 which is some studs wider than my version. Below the cabin there is a working mini fake V12 engine with fan (original design by @jorgeopesi). The cabin has two seats, some gauges around the steering wheel, and fake shift stick. As you can see, I had to make front axle suspension pretty stiff due to heavy front of the truck. There are three pairs of hard spring shock absorbers on 1st axle, two on 2nd and 4th axle, and one pair on 3rd. When there were only two pairs of shocks on front axle, the truck was sagging pretty bad. And now (IMO the highlight of this MOC) to stickers. The truck is full of them, as is the real truck. I searched the web for some that I found cool and funny. Stickers were printed on plain white sticker sheet and some on a transparent sticker sheet for laser printers. The latter took some colours very well and some not – especially red colour pealed off rather quick, which made the rad claw marks look old and worn out which turned out even better. I find it quite hard to tear it apart as I am very pleased with how it turned out. In addition, teardown is being postponed continuously because the transparent sticker sheet leaves some glue spots on bricks and I haven’t found the right mood to clean them. I hope you don't mind, if I point them out... A funny thing with those septic tank cleaners - on Facebook,a guy from Republic South Africa comes out and says he sees trucks of this company all the time as they have HQ in town next to him - small world isn't it? I hope they don't mind some extra commercial . To end, here are some more photos from the beast’s natural habitat and a video of course. In order for you not to fall asleep, I sped up some of the footage. I also apologise for some part of the video being a bit on the lower side of quality - it comes so that my cellphone is practically all my shooting gear. Thank you for your time reading this and I hope you like it. I am looking forward to your thoughts and comments. Fire away. Higher resolution photos can be found in my BrickSafe folder. Best regards, Miha P.S.: In case someone wonders, how I did on the race – see photo of competition below. Mine is that small yellow fella in the middle. As you can imagine, I was no match for those small and fast woodpeckers
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[MOC] Manual 5+R gearbox with realistic controls (linkage)
Rudivdk posted a topic in LEGO Technic and Model Team
Hi everyone, I have already posted this gearbox in the Gearbox collection thread started by Didumos69, but now that I have finished the instructions (as promised@mocbuild101, here you are :-)) I thought it would be a good occasion to start a specific thread on this gearbox. I am currently working on a MOC which has this gearbox implemented (will start a topic for that one in the near future as well), for which I had some specific requirements: I wanted manual operation on standard LEGO 5+R configuration, but with a gearstick that would pivot in all directions from a single point (like in real car). Apart from that, I wanted a center console that was not more than 5 studs wide, so the gearbox had to be moved away from the gearstick. I took my inspiration by Thirdwigg's 6speed gearbox from his Cadillac ATS supersedan, Crowkillers 4speed gearbox from his Asassin X19 and the 5+R gearbox from Nathanaël Kuipers' Predator. I ended up mixing them all with some inspiration from the 42054 Claas steering mode selector as well. Note: the version in the instructions is using the new DGB driving rings and red clutch gears, they actually give a more solid build (when I shot below pic and vids I had already used mine in aforementioned MOC, so I converted it to the old rings and wheels. Works fine as well, just a bit less solid). Manually operated Direct operation special features: single pivot point for gearstick, linkage to gearbox, fits in 3studs wide center console number of gears: 5 forward, neutral and reverse Here's some vids (apologies for noob quality...) and the instructions: Gearbox in action Shifter linkage system in action Instructions PDF Enjoy and let me know what you think of it. -
I loved the building process for the 3T Sports Sedan so much that I started another car. The 3T car needed a friend, and like every car maker who creates a competent sedan and follows it up with a CUV, I will too. Nope. I'm making a sports car. Again, this will be a mid-scale manual sports car with following features in order of priority: Suspension Rear wheel drive HOG steering Steering wheel Sequential 4 speed transmission (currently this one, thanks @Didumos69) Mid engined Flat 4 Discrete gear-change function Design language similar to the 3T Here is the first draft with a Porsche Cayman in the back of my mind, and you'll note a couple of problems already. The suspension is set, and will not change much. The hardpoints are also set, so the wheel base will not change, the rear overhang, height, and width will not change, and the seat and steering wheel placement will not change. Everything else may require some shifting, such as the length and front overhang, and internal placement of components. I do not like the HOG placement, and connecting the steering wheel is going to cause some problems at this point. So I could move the transmission back to the center of the car, and connect the steering wheel and place the HOD on the dash. I could also move the engine behind the rear axle which could lower it by one stud, and bring 6 pistons. But then there is no way this does not finish as a 911. What do you think. Move the engine to the back? Or keep the cabin of the car cluttered with steering and drivetrain parts? I do not have a solution for the changeover yet, so will be coming once I know where everything is placed.
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This is an attempt to start collecting gearbox designs in a single thread. To get started, feel free to add existing gearboxes, but please always add a reference to the original designer. Also be sure to add some information on designer motorized or manual sequential or direct special features like paddle shifters and number of gears, e.g. 5+R. That will also help me in making an index in the OP. Or even better, if it can not be classified along these lines from the entry here, I will not add it to the index. Thanks!
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Over the past couple of months, I have very much enjoyed many of the build threads that have taken place on Eurobricks. Of note was the excellent Hammerhead thread by @Didumos69 where the build kept improving in no small part because of the feedback given by so many. In this same vein, I wanted to embark on a less ambitious project. I'll try to update as often as I can. The project is a manual sports sedan in mid-scale. Features (at this point, in order of priority): Four wheel independent suspension Rear Wheel Drive Steering (Steering Wheel, HOG) Four Doors Flat 6 Opening Bonnet Opening Trunk Toddler Safe Transmission Current Progress Basically, the dimensions are set, and the suspension will not change much. Now I'm working on a transmission, which I have not decided if it will include. A manual gearbox puts the shifter a little too high for the scale, and this sequential will fit, but the changeover location is not great, either forward or rear. I'll update this again tonight, and see what I can figure out.
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The Gearbox I have been playing about with some sequential gearbox ideas over the last year trying to work out how to get more than 4 gears out of the 42056 style gear system, and more importantly with realistic ratios between the gears. I thought that I was getting somewhere and decided that it was finally time to build a new car around this new gearbox, however, the first iteration gearbox was not up to scratch, so I put it to one side, spent last summer working on my house, and came back to it in the autumn determined to make it work. The other key design aspect was that this all had to fit within a 1:10 scale model, with the engine not mounted ridiculously high. The solution I came up with has a lot of gears in it (mostly idlers) but it works well, and is geared so that 1st gear doesn't just lock up the rear wheels when the car is pushed along. This version has reverse, neutral and 5 forward gears. 1st-2nd - 1.667 step ratio 2nd-3rd - 1.333 step ratio 3rd-4th - 1.250 step ratio 4th-5th - 1.200 step ratio The Supercar This time I decided that it would be my own design, but there were a few ideas from a few real cars that influenced the outcome, the car also adapts and builds on some ideas presented in other recent MOCs such as the gear shift/selector by Didumos69, Here are some pictures.
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I think, it would make sense to open a new thread for the Unimog 8110 U-400, that includes all the MOCs, changes, improvements on the Unimog. It should also contain all the new attachments, equipments, that people build. It should show their ideas and what they are creating for this cool set. I am looking forward to see your creations! I'll start today. I implemented a pneumatic driven cargo bed. It is driven by the original motorized pump and works pretty well. The lifting angle could be better. So there is still room for inmprovments. For more pictures of this MOC plesae vistit my Flickr-page or (after publishing) my Brickshelf-folder. Regards, Gerhard
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Since a little moment, I wanted to make a Citroën DS for 2 reasons: This car has a very particular design and it had an innovative mecanic It has not prevously been made in Technic. So I can be the first! ^^ I wanted to reproduce all the features: Suspension Steering with the headlights moving with the wheels Height adjustment using pneumatic (Just up/down, not intermédiary) Gearbox (not defivitive yet, see below) Openable hood, trunk and doors Perhaps the body will be detachable (like the Nico71's 2CV) And a nice design! Actually, I did the chassis. It is not finished, but almost. And it was very complicated to make, this chassis! On the real car, almost all the macanic is in the front part of he car (under the hood). The problem is that it's not really possible in Lego, furthermore I wanted a chassis' height of 3 studs. So, I put the gearbox in the back of the chassis. That is working, but it's not realistic. So can you answer this question: do you like this construction, or do you perfer that I try to put a 2 speed gearbox just under the engine? Here, you can see the headlights moving with the wheels: It's simple, but we don't see that on supercars. There is not HOG yet. I don't know if it will be the steering wheel only, or if there will be one other on the dashboard. The chassis height adjustment allows almost put it down. The suspensions are soft. They give to the car a "boat" effect. And the gearbox: It is linked to the front wheels, but not actually to the engine. I wanted a DBG body, but the parts don't exist in this colour. So, it will be white. Tell me what you think about this begining!
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Hi all, Here is my next project. First i would like to say that this is shot as a really early design stage. This is the first rush on that project. I do command from TLG the new orange selector for gearboxes. I do not received them actually. My first impression when seeing them for first time was that they were designed and intended to fit into a bike gearbox. That it was their reason of existing. And, as you always have better following your very first inspiration I do began the work on this project. Pictures! First, the main frame. As it do exist multiple sorts of frame I choose one who is the less conventional in a sense for a Lego model: This frame offer many advantages on a scale model, the main one is to free a maximum of space for the mechanics. Other view: The challenges are quiet hard on this project. As for many small MOCs the smaller they are, the most compact mechanics has to be and hardest is the designer's job. I am not a designer and even not engineer so i'll try do do my best to reach my goals with the best result I can. Here are my (hopefully) goals: - Superbike inspired - 4 speeds gearbox, with, if possible but I do not figure out on how, a neutral point correctly positioned between first and second speed. - Shifter commands like the real machines ... On design point of view, those bike are often fully careened . I do not think this will be the best choice for a technic model, as it would be great to have a full look at mecha inside. Here are the very first rushes on design: As you can see on the pictures below, there are still so much work to do.... For those who follow my workflow, you will understand my working method. I will now rebuild a second model independently of this one. I think I must begin by the engine part included gearbox setting and stepper commands. If you have any opinion idea or experience on this subject, feel free to post your stuffs and inspiration. Good sunny day all !
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The Koenigsegg One:1 was introduced in 2014. Seven examples, including one prototype, were built during 2014 and 2015. This was one of the most exclusive production car programs ever envisaged in the car industry. The hp-to-kg curb weight ratio is an astonishing 1:1. This has been called the “dream” equation, previously thought impossible when it comes to fully road legal and usable sports cars. The One:1 is the first homologated production car in the world with one Megawatt of power, thereby making it the world´s first series produced Megacar. More on the One:1 at http://koenigsegg.com/one1/ This car grabbed my attention about a year ago so I decided to try to build it. The design parameters that I want to achieve include the following: Replicate the rear triplex suspension set up of the Koenigsegg One:1 as closely as possible Replicate the front suspension set up Syncro dihedral door hinges which are typically Koenigsegg Paddle shift gearbox - a new challenge for me. A good approximation of the real car with the bodywork. Tough enough to withstand my young three year old playing with it. Intuitive enough for my kids to explore the functions. After a long build process and lots of experimentation I am really happy with the end result. The paddle shift gear box ended up being 3 speed plus reverse mainly due to space restrictions and also complexity. Perhaps a future project will be to expand this concept to include additional gears. The paddle shifts at the steering wheel are aesthetic in that they are linked to the actual manual shifters which are camouflaged on top of the dashboard, but it is not really possible to exert enough force on the dash paddles to change gear. This is presented in the images below and in the CAD image. Over time I will digitise this and add a bit of video to show the functions, but first, here are some pictures. [TBC]
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The Fiat Panda is an Italian utility car created for all needs. It's known for its simplicity but above all for its ability to do almost everything. The 4x4 version, despite the 50 hp, is capable of climbing on various types of terrain, in fact it is also used for trials (just change the wheels). I wanted to create it in a small offroad version. The design is quite similar to the real model even if with some difference like the roof. I added a front bumper with 2 PF Lights, very useful for night rides, and a winch (you can see how it works at the end of the video). 1 PF L Motor for propulsion with a 2 speed gearbox and a 4x4 transmission without differential (I added a second reinforcement gear in the rear axle). The gearbox is compact and strong enough and the winch system is connected to it. The total gear ratio is: First Gear 1:3.33; Second Gear 1:1.67. Pendular suspension for good stability on rough terrain, even if the model is not high enough to work properly :(. The rear opening hatch and the small trailer are good for transporting small loads. The old model was very squarish and very low so I had to revise it more carefully.
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What with a certain company ripping off my Koenigsegg One:1 and making a pretty bad job of it at that if you have seen some of their marketing photo's where the flex axles bend into strange shapes. Also due to the fact that my own Lego version started to look a bit shabby when parked next to the more recent Ultimatum GTR V10, i decided to do a major upgrade, basically start over, but this time without trying so hard to replicate the real Koenigsegg, but rather with the aim of making a Koenigsegg based car that is designed more with the aim of making it look good in Lego Technic (we will see how that turns out!) I will be aiming to replicate the Koenigsegg suspension, slight tweaks to my previous rear suspension and a major improvement to the previous front suspension to make it stiffer. I am looking at a combination of my previous 3+R (fake) paddle shift gear box from the Koenigsegg, and the Ultimatum's improved 5+N+R. I have already designed a compromise 4+N+R to fit under the 8 cylinder engine. I just have to work out the shifter mechanism. The engine will be 1 stud lower than the previous Koenigsegg The doors MUST use the same mechanism as the previous Koenigsegg, but I am looking to change the method to actuate them. The roof needs to be at least 1 stud lower than previous (that was my main issue with the bodywork of the previous Koenigsegg when standing it next to the Ultimatum) and here I may move slightly away from the real Koengsegg design, I will see where it all takes me. Again it will be 1:10 scale or thereabouts as I am not yet that inspired to work at 1:8 as I like the challenge of less space to work with. The back end is in progress, and while it looks similar to the previous Koenigsegg, virtually every part has been re-designed and I think significantly improved, so far, I am having fun.
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[WIP] 2017 Ariel Nomad Tactical [Prototype Chassis! VIDEO!!!]
Leonardo da Bricki posted a topic in LEGO Technic and Model Team
I have finally got around to announcing my 40th Anniversary of Technic build! I am going to be making my first fully manual model in honor of the early Technic models. I am planning to build a 2017 Ariel Nomad Tactical, which is essentially a supercharged, street-legal sand-rail/Group B racer hybrid. The Real Thing: Ariel Nomad Ariel Nomad As you can see, it is a pretty awesome vehicle. It can do 0-60mph in 3.4 seconds, 0-100mph in 8.4 seconds, and it has a top speed of 125mph. It is rear-wheel drive only with a 6+R manual transmission, chain-driven by an inline 4-cylinder 2.4L K24 Honda i-VTEC engine, transversely mounted over the rear axle which produces 235bph (which can be upped with an optional supercharger) and 300lb-ft of torque. It is built for off-roading, as it has long-travel, unequal length, double-wishbone suspension, with Bilstein shocks, and approach/departure angles of 71 and 82 degrees respectively. To top all that off, it comes in whatever color you want it to. And the whole thing weighs less than 1500lb. Who wouldn't want one?! For more info, including all the options and still more specs, check out the manufacturer's page. The Model: I am planning on a manual model with a 6-speed transmission, 3+R gearbox, HoG steering, full suspension, and hopefully a fake engine. And maybe in the future... An RC version with buggy motors! Some blueprints I am using for this model. Ariel Nomad Blueprints CURRENT PROGRESS: Gearbox Revision! All the parts are here! I have exchanged all the color vomit parts for black, it looks much better now! I am streamlining the framework around the gearbox. [WIP] Ariel Nomad Chassis V2.0 -
Hi All, im currently in the throes of building a transverse fwd Lego moc. It’s in its early stages at the mo, it it has an ultra 4 speed gearbox, engine and differential all mounted transversely. Ive still to do a bit of work on the gear selector to make it a little easier, but here’s a small video of it in its current state if if you see bits of your Lego Design in this model, thanks for the inspiration
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Hi everyone ! Fasten your seat belts, because today I’m reaching the top speed of 420 km/h with this replica of the Bugatti Chiron 1:8 scale ! Around 4,000 parts, a weight of 3,7 Kg it takes me 2 years of study and design to achieved it. First of all, the pictures renders are slightly different than the video content. I made some modifications (for the roof...) The french manufacturer mixed-up performances and sophisticated design for an unique masterpiece with only few units sold for. The real challenge grabbed my attention so I decided to design it. For more informations about the car, please visit : The road map includes parameters following : 1:8 scale (using of 42056 tires) PFS features (powered by one Buwizz ®) 7 speeds Dual-Clutch Gearbox (DSG) Full 4WD transmission A good approximation of the bodywork Active spoiler feature A high rigid chassis Modular assembly This MOC includes a lot of characteristics as well basics manual ones that more complex ones. But first, here are some pictures below : Main features : Dimensions : 56 x 24 x 16 cm Weight : 3,7 Kg Power supply : 1 Buwizz with easy access Motorisation : 5 mottons Independent suspensions Manual ones : Openable doors with locking system, and openable hood by friction Steering HOG Unplugable motorisation (RC motors and steering ) for playability because the car is very heavy ! Openable trunk providing self-invented W16 engine details and Buwizz access Openable gloves box… …hidding a secret key witch unlock nice PFS features ! (insipired by the real top speed key) After a long build process, I’m very proud of the result. During development, I decided to put an additional feature to improve playability : a small lever to unplug motorisation. Indeed, the car is very heavy so you can’t move it easily. From wheels to the drive train and the 2 RC motors, the high gear reduction lock any movement. The secret key system create some kind of manual interaction allowing selection between 2 motorised features powered by one M motor : Spoiler extension (3 handling modes reachable) Adjustable suspension in height I’ve made a small video to illustrate spoiler mechanism : I found inspiration on Pipasseyoyo Bugatti Veyron system for height setting https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eaX5JLdBcyg. Irreversibility is performed by 4 worms screw, one for each axle. http://www.techlug.fr/Forum/topic10504.html I assume all similarity with @Didumos69 anti-roll bar and torsion bars system on the front axle. His advanced setup is very strong and reliable. https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/143038-moc-rugged-supercar-hammerhead-19-scale/ Remote ones : 5 motors : 2x RC motors / 2x M motors / 1x XL motor 7 speeds Dual-Clutch Gearbox (DSG) driven by XL motor Spoiler animate by 1 M motor and its own gearbox Suspension height controlled by the same M motor Steering by 1 motor or the HOG Full 4WD transmission driven by 2 RC motors Gearbox ratios : 1st : 1:9 2nd : 1:6 3rd : 1:5,4 4th : 1:4,5 5th : 1:3 6th : 1:2 7th : 1:1,8 R : 1:9 Gearbox inspiration : @Sheepo Rubicon Jeep shifting system :http://www.sheepo.es/2016/06/jeep-wrangler-rubicon-instructions.html @ibessonov gearbox : https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-5565/ibessonov/sequential-rc-4-speed-dual-clutch-gearbox-with-pf-servo-motor/#comments Other pictures : Hell yeah Enjoy pictures in HQ : https://flic.kr/s/aHsm9s9M7C And here is the video : I hope you'll like it ! I'm making instruction video for the DSG gearbox, see you soon !
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Here is a sneak peak of one of my biggest projects up to date: Project started with a new type of a gearbox, which uses only two toothgears at any time in order to transfer power from motors efficient to the wheels: Here are a few specs of the model: Length cca. 80cm when folded Width cca. 30cm Height cca. 25cm Weight cca. 4,5 cm Dual rear live axles in the back independent suspension in front 4 electrically controlled gears + 1 additional electro-pneumatically controlled gear Working towing arm in the back capable of lifting weights of over 1kg Dynamic lights All functions controlled by 3 Sbricks Currently we have snow here and I can't shoot a video as planned I will post more info as soon as I manage to take more photos and a video.
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[MOC] Rugged supercar - Hammerhead (1:9 scale)
Didumos69 posted a topic in LEGO Technic and Model Team
Rugged supercar - Hammerhead (1:9 scale) This project was not something I started very consciously. Also for me it evolved into something special. I was especially happy with the interference (in a positive way) of other builders. A big thank you to this community, for pushing me in the right direction on several occasions! The most special part - to me - of this build, is the chassis. It combines a simple 4-speed AWD transmission, a flawless sequential shifting mechanism and advanced suspension setups with Ackermann steering, anti-roll bars, torsion bars, 2 studs ground clearance and 2 studs suspension travel. All wrapped together in a very flat yet rigid and coherent structure with a mid-console width of only 5 studs. I did not want the bodywork to make any compromises to these features. I wanted the body to continue the line of durability set in by the chassis. Flex-axles do not fit that image, hence no wheel arcs. They would also sit 2 studs above the hood - not very elegant. The result is a car that does not only look fool-proof; it is fool-proof. After a rough treatment, you don't need to tighten connections or fine-tune gears to avoid friction. You can carry the car by the sides, by the trunk door (rear wing), by the nose and by the bumpers without displacing any parts. You can even grab the 2Kg build by the roof and turn it upside down to see the bottom side without a problem. So I did not intend to level with great bodywork builders. To me the biggest compliment is that some have referred to this model as the successor of 8865 and 8880. Drive train AWD with 3 differentials Sequential 4-speed gearbox One-finger shifter V8 fake engine Suspension Double wishbone suspension Anti-roll bars (front & rear) 2 studs suspension travel 2 studs ground clearance Steering Ackermann steering Gear-rack sliders Working steering wheel HoG steering Chassis Sturdy and durable Integrated bumpers Adjustable seats Narrow mid-console (5L) Bodywork Sturdy and durable Integrated roll-cage Lockable doors Openable trunk Liftable By the roof By the sides By the nose By the trunk door Instructions are available on Rebrickable. There is a full-featured version called 'Rugged supercar' and a chassis-only version called 'Flat AWD chassis'. The chassis-only version confines itself to part 1 of the instructions of the full-featured version. Special thanks to @Blakbird and @BusterHaus - with Blakbird being the driving force - for taking on the task of making these beautiful instructions! Making instructions for a build like this is a tremendous amount of work. Even more so, given the fact that I have been very demanding in sticking to my original design. - 32005a (Link 1 x 6 without Stoppers) - used for the anti-roll bars and steering tie rods - is preferred over 32005b (Link 1 x 6 with Stoppers), because each link has tow-balls inserted from both sides. 32005b can be used too, but in that case each link will have one tow-ball that needs quite some force to insert. - 32056 (Liftarm 3 x 3 L-Shape Thin) - used for the door locks - is preferred over 32249 (Liftarm 3 x 3 L-Shape with Quarter Ellipse Thin). 32249 can be used too, but makes it more likely to accidentally lock the door while it's open, which is not a big deal of course. - 76138 (Shock Absorber 6.5L with Soft Spring) - used for the door locks - should be soft springs. They are quite rare in red, but you could also use two LBG soft springs. - 85543 (Rubber Belt Small (Round Cross Section) - used for the 90 degree limiter and the return-to-center of the gear shifter - should be relatively new, say max 2 years. Not that they wear out quickly, but the older ones are slightly less tight. Images of the full-featured version can be found here. Images of the chassis-only version can be found here. See the entry on The LEGO Car Blog! P.S. Where real cars start with a sketch, evolve into a professional design and finally have their technical details filled-in, this project started with some technical details, evolved into a complete design and ended up in a sketch ;-). By @HorcikDesigns (http://horcikdesigns.deviantart.com/gallery/). -
This is my first WIP post on EuroBricks where I will show my progress on my newest build, an EV3-powered 1:8 replica of Lexus' newest flagship coupe, the LC500. The car will most likely be a combination of both the standard and the V6 hybrid LC, but it will have a V8. The body will also be orange. Here's a photo I found of an LC that looks a lot like the one I am shooting for. Features I'm planning to add: Four or six-speed paddle-shift transmission Retractable spoiler Detailed interior Fake V8 engine (but I would like to achieve moving pistons) Full independent suspension All I built so far was the rear axle for the LC. It's exactly like the one in the Porsche 911 GT3 RS set but more reinforced. I also made the V8 engine using Lego Digital Designer. I plan to build the paddle-shifting mechanism used in Didumos' Ultimately Playable Porsche 911 GT3 RS (the one with the tilted wheel) and pair it up with a gearbox. I currently am having trouble whether to motorize his gearbox with the EV3 motors or to pick a different one with less gears and friction. I also am having a little bit of trouble finding the right front axle, though I like the one that Didumos put his Porsche because of the fact that is has two shocks for each wheel. However, I find it very difficult to fit the V8 engine in the middle since the axle is made for a rear-engine car. Here's a poorly drawn render I made of what I'm trying to achieve with the front axle. And here's the chassis in the real LC and the measurements for the LC Lego model. Overall, I'm excited about the build. I would welcome some helpful comments about the V8 engine, axles, and the gearbox I planned to use before I order pieces on BL. Once I start working on the body and aesthetics, I would appreciate some input with that as well. I can also give you the download for the .lxf file of the engine if you'd like to check it out. I look forward to replying to your comments and sharing my progress. Thank you.
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[TC6] MAN Transport truck with crane on the back + Instructions
TeClem8 posted a topic in LEGO Technic and Model Team
Hi ! Here is my WIP for the TC6 contest. It's a transport truck with a palfinger crane on the back. My model have 4 powered motors. I use a gearbox, so i have 7 functions motorised. - Selection of operating mode (M-motor) Driving : - Drive (XL-motor) - Steer (M-motor) - Outriggers (M-motor) Handling : - UP arm (XL-motor) - Rotate arm (M-motor) - Open arm (M-motor) + fake engine and suspension When the gearbox is in neutral, it is possible to drive in hand with HOG. And small render with LDD. Very far from the quality of Blackbird. -
To be honest this video was supposed to be my video releasing a new version of the RC Car with Sbrick along with some instructions. However, after a request for a build battle by LEGO Technic Mastermind, I have decided to postpone that video, but that will happen sometime in the future. In the meantime, I have made a rear-wheel drive sports car with an opening hood, small-cylinder V8 engine, functional headlights and taillights with PF LEDs, full independent suspension on all four wheels, a steered front axle with toe in (steered by a PF servo), and a four speed manual gearbox driven by 4 PF L-motors. To control all the powered functions, I have used two Sbricks, each connected to their own AAA battery box. I have not much else to say, just enjoy the video and photos below.
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The 2017 Ford GT is effectively a GTE race car converted to road use. After the 2016 race car won at Le Mans, exactly 50 years after Ford's historic win with the GT40, they had to build some road cars for homologation purposes. These road cars have a 3.5-litre twin-turbo Ecoboost V6 producing 647 horsepower, and an extreme amount of downforce from the active rear wing, diffusers, front splitter and those gigantic flying buttresses on the sides. The interior is sparse to reduce weight. The initial allocation sold for around $500,000 each, and Ford received more than 5,000 applications for 500 cars. Getting hold of a car is extremely difficult, and even those who are successful must wait for several years to receive their car. The recent incident of Ford announcing that they would sue John Cena for selling his car (supposedly for profit) and breaking the terms of the contract is a testament to how sought-after this car is. After several months of rather intermittent building, I've finally finished what turned out to be a prime example of how not to manage a project. Anyhow, at least the car is finished so I can get to work on building something I'll hopefully enjoy more... Initially, I planned for this to be a fast RC vehicle, using every single motor that I own. That meant three EV3 Large motors, a PF XL and a PF L for drive, an EV3 Medium for the gearbox and a PF M for the steering. However, as I chased the GT's distinctive styling, the car got heavier, more fragile and closer to the ground. In the end, the car would barely move in anything other than 1st gear, and it would scrape its bodywork on the ground. That's what happens when you change tack mid-way though a build. However, at least I think I can call this my best-looking car model to date. The car has a 4-speed sequential gearbox mounted behind the rear axle to save space and take advantage of the car's huge overhangs. There is no suspension to reduce complexity and because the model is a little too narrow for an independent driven axle to fit. All the motors in the drivetrain are hard-coupled together (yes, I know it's a little naughty, but the gear ratios are closely matched and the stresses put on them by this are probably dwarfed by the load caused by driving the car uphill). The steered axle is extremely simple with just a little return-to-center mechanism. This is in order to leave enough space for the PF battery box under the bonnet. There was just about enough room to have a convincing-looking cabin and seats, although it is considerably smaller (compared to the size of the whole car) than in real life. The rear wing is mounted on a scissor lift system to raise or lower it - there wasn't much space over the gearbox so I had to resort to using those ugly yellow beams. The doors are hinged about the A-pillars in order to give that characteristic motion, opening both upwards and outwards. An elastic band puts some tension on the mechanism and keeps the door either in the closed or in the open position. Styling-wise, the Ford GT is quite a challenging car, but at least it is more angular than curved. I did my best to focus on the characteristic features: the two big vents on the bonnet, the giant side vents and flying buttresses, the red circular brake lights and the carbon sill running along the length of the sides, part of which lifts up with the doors. I don't have that many pieces, so I had to do a few colour-mismatches, but I tried to keep to the grey theme. In the end, the car is easily-recogniseable as a GT, and that's what counts to me. Here is a video showing pictures of the car and a time-lapse of building. Unfortunately there's no driving footage (it would be pretty underwhelming anyway), but you can see the opening of the doors and raising of the rear wing. Music is composed by me as usual. My next build will be what this one failed to be: an incredibly fast RC car. This time, I'm going for minimal bodywork and no gearbox.
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Hi guys! At least I has finished my next MOC and want to introduced the finished model to all of you! Welcome my International Lonestar truck! It's dimensions are: - Lengh: 101 stud or 80 cm - Width: 31 studs or 25 cm without mirrors - High: 37 studs or 30 cm excluding antennas and exhaust pipes. It consists of more than 5000 Lego parts, including 9 motors. It has: - Great Charbel's 8 speed gearbox, modified by me to the 16 speed one by adding high/low gear to the main output. It has a special shifter. It's all RC. - Independant powerfull pneumatic brakes on each wheel. Inspired by Sheepo's Peterbilt. - Pneumatically controlled fifth wheel. - Independant suspencion on front and dependant one on the rear axles. - Suspended driver's and passenger's seats, doors with locks and shock absorbers. - Detalized interior. - Inline 6 cylinder engine like the real truck. Power functions is described at the picture below, I think this is more interesting than just to read. Also I include pneumatics sheme. Enjoy the pictures please, I hope some video will apear nowadays. Unfortunately, rear differentials can't cope with such a huge torgue and truck cant drive fast on the floor, sorry. Please visit my Bricksafe page for more photo. Building instructions are available here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-9788/OleJka/international-lonestar-truck/#comments VIDEO AVAILABLE NOW!!
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Hi all, I present you my finished MOC of a 7-seater familycar with full functions: DETAILED PDF INSTRUCTIONS NOW AVAILABLE HERE, REBRICKABLE ENTRY HERE Separate PDF instructions for the roof implement available HERE, Rebrickable entry HERE I got the idea for building a family car about 3 years ago, when looking for a bigger car IRL for my own family. I was intrigued by the fancy seat folding mechanisms seen on these type of cars and wanted to reproduce that. For the model, I took inspiration from the Ford S-Max, which in my opinion combines good looks with all familycar requirements. It also comes in some fast versions, so it is fun to drive as well (unfortunately, IRL this car is well above my budget... Ah well...): It was clear to me early on that I would not be able to reproduce the exact looks (I'm not that good a scale model builder), but I wanted to stay as close to a real life car as I could in terms of mechanical features and looks on both interior and exterior. Meanwhile I wanted it to be structurally sound as well, based on modern "box structure" car frames. I built numerous iterations, starting in 1:8 scale, and later switching to 1:10 scale after having to much trouble with the larger scale when it comes to chassis stiffness. I have worked on this on and off for over 2 years, finally resulting in this build. The model has: 5+ R gearbox with linkage control: full suspension (independent McPherson with drive in front, dead trailing arm axle in the rear): 4-in-line transversally mounted fake engine in the front: rigid box structure chassis full interior with adjustable/folding seats on all rows: Folding the seats movie opening doors (with lock), boot and hood: parking brake (transmission lock) I wanted the maximum available interior space for this car (that's what a family car is all about after all...), so I set myself some goals: no supports from bottom to roof inside interior space: center console should be no wider than 5 studs: front wheel drive with front engine and gearbox: I wanted to create a rigid chassis, which would not bend and is self supporting. Because I wanted as much interior space as possible, the bottom structure is only 2-3 studs high. I couldn't fit vertical frames in there (as they are 5studs high), so in the end the roof became an active part of the structure of the chassis. It is very strong and stiff, when one wheel is lifted, there is hardly any bending in the chassis, instead the opposite wheel suspension is compressed: The whole car can be lifted safely with only one finger, from the midsection on the roof and by the B-pillars and C-pillars: Here are some more pics: For a full gallery and all WIP photo's, check my bricksafe folder. ============================ Below and further in this topic is all the WIP progress of making this car from July 1st onwards: Pic of current chassis WIP with parking break (back yellow knob), gearstick (in front of parking brake) and linkage (beneath and in front of gearstick), and start of gearbox mounting and front suspension (McPherson with drive from Sheepo's MPS)
