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Found 136 results

  1. Hi Everyone, This gearbox has been designed to automatically reverse if there is a high load on the output. The gearbox works by using a differential to react to the torque on the output and it drives a two state switch to select the reverse or forward direction in the gearbox.
  2. This gearbox is an upgrade of my ultra compact 8-speed sequential gearbox. The 8-speed gearbox was nice but it was frustrating to know that the 2-speed gearbox took as much space as the 4-speed gearbox. I thought about transforming the 2-speed gearbox into a 2+N+R one. I had an idea about how to transform this gearbox but I didn't really think about how to activate the reverse and the neutral. Maybe by doing something with the knobs... I spoke with @Charbel and he gave me the idea to use the Bionicle parts I already used on my previous gearbox. Then I ended up with this: I used large frames as in the Lamborghini Sian. They make the whole gearbox stiff and now you have just to build a chassis arount the 'box! The neutral was extremely simple to do. See by yourselves: The reverse was more complex to create. For every foreward speed, the 2+N+R-speed gearbox rotates the 4-speed gearbox by the red 16t at the bottom. The reverse doesn't use the 4-speed gearbox, it uses the blue 20t at the top of the picture below: To engage the neutral and the reverse, I fixed two Bionible parts on the left knob. So they act as a smaller knob, with two teeth, and at a point 1/4 turn of the right knob makes the left knob rotate by 1/4 turn, whereas for all the foreward speeds, the left knob does 1/4 turn every turn of the right knob. Reverse engaged: Neutral: First: There is a stop not to shift from the 8th to the reverse. The engine and the gearbox wouldn't appreciate. The wheels have to be connected the the red axle and the engine to the grey one. It's possible to use this gearbox for a 4WD vehicle easily since the red axle goes through the gearbox. With this gearbox you don't have to use a 8-speed gearbox and a DNR one anymore, as in the Chiron or the Sian. It saves space, and you can't engage the 4th speed whereas you are in neutral - all the speeds shift into a logic order. I will make instructions when I have time!
  3. steph77

    BMW S1000/RR

    Hi all, Here is my next project. First i would like to say that this is shot as a really early design stage. This is the first rush on that project. I do command from TLG the new orange selector for gearboxes. I do not received them actually. My first impression when seeing them for first time was that they were designed and intended to fit into a bike gearbox. That it was their reason of existing. And, as you always have better following your very first inspiration I do began the work on this project. Pictures! First, the main frame. As it do exist multiple sorts of frame I choose one who is the less conventional in a sense for a Lego model: This frame offer many advantages on a scale model, the main one is to free a maximum of space for the mechanics. Other view: The challenges are quiet hard on this project. As for many small MOCs the smaller they are, the most compact mechanics has to be and hardest is the designer's job. I am not a designer and even not engineer so i'll try do do my best to reach my goals with the best result I can. Here are my (hopefully) goals: - Superbike inspired - 4 speeds gearbox, with, if possible but I do not figure out on how, a neutral point correctly positioned between first and second speed. - Shifter commands like the real machines ... On design point of view, those bike are often fully careened . I do not think this will be the best choice for a technic model, as it would be great to have a full look at mecha inside. Here are the very first rushes on design: As you can see on the pictures below, there are still so much work to do.... For those who follow my workflow, you will understand my working method. I will now rebuild a second model independently of this one. I think I must begin by the engine part included gearbox setting and stepper commands. If you have any opinion idea or experience on this subject, feel free to post your stuffs and inspiration. Good sunny day all !
  4. I made it almost a year ago, but I didn't have the time to make its presentation. It's a gearbox I made at the release of the rotary changeover catches. My purpose was to make a gearbox as compact as possible. So I decided to couple a 2 speed gearbox to a 4 speed gearbox. There are 2 advantages: firstly the gearing is more compact, and then the shift system is also pretty compact. When the changeover catch of the 4 speed gearbox makes one turn, it activates the one of the 2 speed gearbox. So to change the speeds from the lowest ratio to the highest, the 4 speed gearbox does 1; 2; 3; 4 while the 2 speed gearbox is in first gear; then the 4 speed gearbox activates the second speed of the 2 speed gearbox, and it does 1; 2; 3; 4 again. Little trick: when you make a double gearbox like this, it's important to be sure that the gears are in the right order. This means the 6th gear (2-2) must not to be lower than the 4th gear -1-4) or you cannot control the gearbox properly. So in Excel, I recreated the structure of the gearbox using cases in the calculations (for example F3*G3/F4*G4). Then I put the number of teeth of the gears I may use in the cases, and I got the final ratios of the gearbox. After some tries, I got a good result, and a perfectly controllable gearbox. To control this gearbox, I used the stepper of the Bugatti Chiron that I compacted a little bit (the piece in red). To finish, a modelization of the mechanic to have a clearer view of the gears: Finally, this is an extremly compact gearbox, easily controllable.
  5. Hello everybody! This is the first MOC I present on Eurobricks. My most popular MOC yet is the 3 speed auto gearbox (https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-33711/lbrix/3-speed-auto-gearbox-overworked-version/?inventory=1#comments). But now to this gearbox: At first ask yourself this question: Which sense has a normal D-N-R gearbox in a manual technic car? It has no sense. It makes no difference if you are in the forward gear or in te reserve. But with this D-N-R gearbox it makes a difference, because if you are in the forward gear, you can not push the car backward and if you switch in the reserve gear, you can not push the car forward. If you want to build this gearbox into a technic car, you have to connect the grey connectors to the wheels and one of the black ones to the fake engine. For more information check out this MOC on rebrickable (maybe it is not approved yet): https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-47985/lbrix/alternative-d-n-r-gearbox/?inventory=1#comments No I wanted to ask you, what you think about this D-N-R gearbox? Here is an video of my gearbox:
  6. A 1023 speed gearbox has been built into a large remote controlled car chassis. The car can be steered and driven via remote control using two channels. The gears can be manually changed using ten selectors that drive ten differentials. This allows for one of 1023 different speeds to be selected to set the car's forward and reverse speeds. The car drives well on carpet as well as a smooth surface. It uses 4 large 10cm diameter wheels and a medium sized motor for the steering mechanism. The main drive is from a large power functions motor. The gearbox functions are explained in detail.
  7. Hello everyone! This is my new moc! The airboat is at rest, when the propeller is rotating at low frequency, and begins moving, once the propeller has worked faster. 1 L-motor 2 M-motors Watch the video!
  8. I am still looking to tweak a few spots (the panel at the rear window is included in this), but mostly it is finished: 20190827_134133 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_134604 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_135244 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_134945 by Appie NL, on Flickr I don't think I mentioned this before, but the "gas" and "break" pedal function as the forward/neutral/reverse for the gearbox. If I did the math right, then the reverse gear ratio is slightly above the ratio of the 2nd, perhaps not very realistic since afaik they are usually around the ratio of the 1st, I couldn't figure out a better ratio in the space I had left for this. 20190827_134741 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_135042 by Appie NL, on Flickr The white levers with silver knobs control the windows and the black one on the dash controls the airconditioning. The lever below the steering wheel is for the lights. My aim was to have the positions for these controls as close to what they would be in a real car. Despite the roof being open, the front window levers are a little hard to reach for my big hands (especially with my left as you will see in the video below). 20190827_153707 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_135520 by Appie NL, on Flickr My attempt to recreate the "star filled heaven" roof lining of the real Phantom. These are "glitter bricks". They only come in weird colours like dark pink until a set of Harry Potter brought these light blues. I considered adding PF lights to this for extra effect, but it didn't have the desired result in terms of lightning and I didn't want to use 3rd party stuff on this build. 20190827_134306 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_134407 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_135313 by Appie NL, on Flickr Behind the back of the trunk is the gearshifter from Attika and some wires. 20190827_140703 by Appie NL, on Flickr Perhaps looks a little bright in this picture, but there's only 2 PF leds per headlight on these. 20190827_140547 by Appie NL, on Flickr And the taillights, 1 PF led each. 20190827_140944 by Appie NL, on Flickr @Attika Here's your desired belly shot I don't have the new wire holders yet from Control+ sets and not sure of these can even hold 2-3 wires in 1, so I made something myself to hold/tunnel/guide the wires. At first I wanted to completely cover up the floor and "hide" the Technic like I mostly did on the rest of the car, but decided to keep it open. And some might notice that I updated the front suspension. When I nearly finished the build it needed an upgrade to 3 hard springs, same number as the rear, since the front suspension was pretty much dead in the old configuration. And a little video to showcase the windows and airconditioning Original opening post below this point: With all the great sportcars on this forum, I felt I had to try a different approach to the "1:8 Lego supercar". Choosing this car also gave me a good excuse to add different kind of functions usually not in these kind of cars. First of all I want to say thanks to a few people on this forum for information, techniques or mechanisms they provided: @Didumos69 and @jb70 for their work on the Chiron gearbox. This model uses their efficiently build Chiron gearbox, I only tweaked it slightly further to make it shorter. Also thanks Didumos and @Erik Leppen for their information on suspension, made it easier to look for how to fix stuff. @Attika for his compact servo based gearbox stepper which I used in this model. @Jeroen Ottens for all sorts of neat techniques and tricks in his DB11. The front mounting of the suspension is very similar to his to get the engine very low like in his DB11. I am sure I forgot a few people, my apologies. So here's the current progress: WIP3Frontside by Appie NL, on Flickr WIP3RearSide by Appie NL, on Flickr WIP3Side by Appie NL, on Flickr The current features are: - 8 speed gearbox - V12 fake engine - Suspension - Electric windows - "Airco" - Lights I think, despite the outer shell being about 70% system bricks and 30% technic, the base of the car is all Technic and that it should belong in this forum and not the scale forum. This is how the car looked in the early stages: WIPRollsPhantomFront2 by Appie NL, on Flickr But if Jim or Milan thinks it should still be in the other forum, I am sure he will move it. The reason for the mostly system outer shell is because I had a hard time making all the little curves with Technic (panels) and I felt those little curves made the difference to try and capture this car. Especially at the front, after that I tried to minimize Technic panel use because it would be a breach of style at that point. Overall I am happy how it turned out so far, some parts I don't like. The windscreen being the biggest offender with how square and flat it looks, but the A-pillars being part of the structural integrity of the model made it hard to come up with something else. Stuff left to do: - Dashboard and midconsole - Front seats - Roof - Mirrors - The bottom 2 studs of the model (under the doors, bottom of front grill and the second layer of the floor to hide wires and provide more rigidity to the model)
  9. Hi everyone, Lately, I read topic on Audi R8 from Jeroen Ottens (https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/178368-wip-audi-r8/) and it remembers me that I had such a prototype of a sequential gearbox. It's an improved version of my sequential gearbox used on my Bugatti Chiron 1/8, lighter and more compact. I use 4 orange rotary changeover selectors. I just want to say that is only a prototype version unfinished that I wanted to share with you. Please do not judge assembly design, but system core. How does it works ? - The main shat is the center one and it's made the dual clutch shaft - On each side, there is 1 half-gearbox. One with odds speeds (1, 3, 5, 7) and the other one with even speeds (R, 2, 4, 6). - On main main shaft, there is an offset of 90° between the 2 orange changeover. Its engage only at time one of the half gearbox. The real secret of the gearbox is the offset between each half gearbox. I used a factory wheel with 2 pins with tow ball to create this offset. See the picture below : Of course, the gearbox has a end stop to prevents 7 to Reverse shifting. Ratios ; R : 1,2 1 : 0,6 2 : 0,75 3 : 1 4 : 1,67 5 : 1,8 6 : 2,1 7 : 3 The reverse speed is too fast. I worked to an improved version too, smaller that prototype. The arrow shows the right way to shift up. Finally the video to understand the mecanism : I hope you will like it ! See you soon !
  10. TechnicBrickPower

    [MOC] 12 Speed Rotary Gearbox

    Here I present my 12 speed gearbox design. The gearbox implements 3 reverse speeds, a stop gear (zero speed), and 8 forward speeds. The forward speeds range from 0.307 to 1.2 and reverse from -0.067 to -0.36. The gearbox has a single gear lever to drive two rotary selectors to select the gears. Let me know if you like it, have any comments or questions.
  11. I finally took the time to write down the things I have come to understand with regard to LEGO 4-speed sequential gearboxes. I am receiving many questions about gearboxes and I hope these understandings can help you reason about a gearbox layout while you're building one or trying to design one. I hope this also answers a question I received from @nerdsforprez more than a year ago, which I did not answer yet. Gearbox layout Let's take a look at this 4-speed sequential gearbox layout. Black is input, red is output and orange is control. The main input is divided over a high input (black) with high input ratio and a low input (white) with low input ratio. The high input ratio is 1:1 (via a 12:12 mash) and the low input ratio is 1:2 (via a 8:16 mash). This makes for a combined ratio of (1:1) : (1:2) = 2:1 between the high and low inputs. I will refer to this ratio as the primary ratio. In fact this ratio is the ratio between the two driving rings. Both driving rings have a high output (green) with high output ratio and a low output (yellow) with low output ratio. For both driving rings, the high output ratio is 1:1 * 2:1 = 2:1 (via a 16:16 mash and a 16:8 mash) and the low output ratio is 5:3 * 1:2 = 5:6 (via a 20:12 mash and a 8:16 mash). This makes for a combined ratio of (2:1) : (5:6) = 12:5 between the high and low outputs of each driving ring. I will refer to these ratios as the secondary ratios. Rotary catch and quadrants Even though I will explain things in terms of the gearbox layout described above, the first understanding I want to address, applies to practically all 4-speed sequential gearboxes with 2 driving rings. Let's take a look at the rotary catch and driving rings from above and divide the layout into four quadrants. Each quadrant represents one of the four gears of the 4-speed gearbox. When we turn the rotary catch clockwise (seen from the left) with 90-degree steps, it will always make the following path through the four quadrants. From the path the rotary catch draws, we can see that it toggles from one driving ring to the other driving ring for every 90-degree step. So if we want to obtain a useful gear sequence (either a 1-2-3-4 sequence or a 4-3-2-1 sequence) along that path, we need to tie gears 1 and 3 to one driving ring and gears 2 and 4 to the other driving ring. Otherwise the rotary catch can never 'toggle' between subsequent gears. Now let's take a look at all distributions of the four gears over the four quadrants that meet this requirement. Starting top-left, this will produce a 1-4-3-2 sequence. Repeating the sequence will give 1-4-3-2-1-4-3-2-etc., which effectively boils down to a 4-3-2-1 sequence. Starting top-left, this will produce a 1-2-3-4 sequence. Starting top-left, this will produce a 3-4-1-2 sequence. Repeating the sequence will give 3-4-1-2-3-4-1-2-etc., which effectively boils down to a 1-2-3-4 sequence. Starting top-left, this will produce a 3-2-1-4 sequence. Repeating the sequence will give 3-2-1-4-3-2-1-4-etc., which effectively boils down to a 4-3-2-1 sequence. Starting top-left, this will produce a 2-3-4-1 sequence. Repeating the sequence will give 2-3-4-1-2-3-4-1-etc., which effectively boils down to a 1-2-3-4 sequence. Starting top-left, this will produce a 2-1-4-3 sequence. Repeating the sequence will give 2-1-4-3-2-1-4-3-etc., which effectively boils down to a 4-3-2-1 sequence. Starting top-left, this will produce a 4-3-2-1 sequence. Starting top-left, this will produce a 4-1-2-3 sequence. Repeating the sequence will give 4-1-2-3-4-1-2-3-etc., which effectively boils down to a 1-2-3-4 sequence. Surprisingly, every distribution that meets the requirement, will produce either a 1-2-3-4 sequence or a 4-3-2-1 sequence. What this tells us, is that it's enough to tie gears 1 and 3 to one driving ring and gears 2 and 4 to the other driving ring, to obtain a useful gear sequence. Nothing else matters! Primary ratio vs. secondary ratios The next understanding I want to address, concerns the relation between the primary ratio (the ratio between the high and low input) and the secondary ratios (the ratios between the high and low outputs of both driving rings). We have already seen that in the gearbox layout at hand, the high and low output ratios are the same for both driving rings. One thing we can say about 4-speed gearboxes in general, is that the ratios between gears 1 and 3 and between gears 2 and 4 need to make a bigger difference than the ratios between gear 1 and 2 and between 3 and 4. Now when we take into account that gears 1 and 3 need to be tied to one driving ring and gears 2 and 4 need to be tied to the other driving ring, and we use the same high and low output ratios for both driving rings, we can say that the secondary ratios, which constitute the ratios between gears 1 and 3 and between gears 2 and 4, need to be bigger than the primary ratio, which constitutes the ratios between gears 1 and 2 and between gears 3 and 4. The gearbox discussed in the beginning of this post has a primary ratio of 2:1 and secondary ratios of 12:5, so it meets the above requirement. Check! Swapping and reversing If we go back to the distributions we listed above, we can see that half of them generate a 1-2-3-4 sequence and half of them generate a 4-3-2-1 sequence. When we study them more thoroughly, we can see that all 1-2-3-4 distributions have a horizontally flipped counterpart with a 4-3-2-1 sequence. In other words, if we flip the distribution horizontally, we reverse the gear sequence. Example: Swapping 1-3 with 2-4 in a 4-3-2-1 sequence produces a 3-4-1-2 sequence. Repeating the sequence will give 3-4-1-2-3-4-1-2-etc., which effectively boils down to 1-2-3-4. Example: Swapping 1-3 with 4-2 in a 1-2-3-4 sequence produces a 4-3-2-1 sequence. What this tells us, is that when we mirror the gearbox layout left-to-right (top-down in the quadrants), which boils down to swapping the high and low inputs, the effect is that we reverse the gear sequence. Practical value: If you find yourself in a situation where you want to swap the upshifting and downshifting directions, simply swap the high and low inputs, like in the image above. Finally, if we take one more look at the gear distributions above, we can see that when we swap gears 1 and 3 or gears 2 and 4 in any distribution, we get a distribution with the reversed order. 1-2-3-4 will produce 4-3-2-1 and 4-3-2-1 will produce 1-2-3-4. When we swap both gears 1 and 3, and gears 2 and 4, we reverse the order twice and get again the same order. Example: Swapping 1 and 3 in a 1-2-3-4 sequence produces a 3-2-1-4 sequence. Repeating the sequence will produce 3-2-1-4-3-2-1-4, which effectively boils down to a 4-3-2-1 sequence. Example: Swapping 2 and 4 in a 1-2-3-4 sequence produces a 1-4-3-2 sequence. Repeating the sequence will produce 1-4-3-2-1-4-3-2, which effectively boils down to a 4-3-2-1 sequence. Example: Swapping 1 and 3, and 2 and 4 in a 1-2-3-4 sequence produces a 3-4-1-2 sequence. Repeating the sequence produces 3-4-1-2-3-4-1-2, which effectively boils down to a 1-2-3-4 sequence. What this tells us, is that when we mirror one side of the gearbox front-to-back (swap the high and low outputs of one driving ring), we will reverse the gear sequence. When we mirror both sides front-to-back (swap the high and low outputs of both driving rings), we won't affect the gear sequence. Practical value: If it's more convenient for the rest of your build to mirror your gearbox layout front-to-back, like in the image above, you can do so without any consequences. If it's more convenient to mirror only the left side or the right side of your gearbox layout, you need to also swap the upshifting and downshifting directions. If you want to inspect the gearbox used in this post in 3D, here it is in Stud.io format and here in LDD format.
  12. Hi Everyone, I have created this 4 speed gearbox based on the "change over rotary catch" component and I have used it to select 1 of 4 gearing inputs in possibly a new way by connecting to four clutch gears which then connect to a differential housing used as a method to transfer motion whilst allowing the rotary catch to be rotated freely inside of it. The gearbox implements 3 forward speeds, and 1 reverse. I was wondering if anyone has seen this technique before (I am guessing yes since most ideas are not new)? Anyway thanks in advance.
  13. Hey y'all, First time I'm gonna try to do a WIP page... Been fiddling around with this Kraz 255b MOC by the one and only Ingmar Spijkhoven and figured out what attachment I'll build finally. In short, it's a mini portable bridge (called a TMM-3 or a scissor bridge). Functions of this add on attachment consist of- Actuator for raising and lowering the bridge Winch for deploying and retracting the bridge 2 stabilizers at the end of the truck to... stabilize the truck Propulsion has been swapped from 2 L motors on the sides to 1 one buggy motor under the hood. Now the replica engine can be put on display. The gearbox I really wanted to try part 35188 to make all the functions AND propulsion run on the one motor. Where I guess we can call the "transfer case" is at is right behind the cab, so here's what the result is for now. It was tricky since the tandem axle left no room for fit it in between the chassis rails. The rear shaft will actually hit the bottom of this when compressed all the way. It's as compact as could get it with Studio (kinda a LDD fan). It'll probably need to be reinforced even more, but wanna see how it mates with the buggy motor first. Never built a gearbox before and destroyed many other MOC's with gearboxes so don't have high hopes. Note- all of the motorized attachments will be ran with worm gears, so not to concerned with the gear ratios... buggy motor just gonna make everything super fast anyways with a Buwizz. Where buggy motor is planning to be in the future a bit more securely. Just seeing how a gearbox could be placed and how high it'll be. Part 87408 is now mounted securely below the motor with two 24t gears feeding it above (will get a shot of it soon). Getting the motor to fit underneath the hood was very miserable. Couldn't use a servo anymore since the buggy motor is so low it'll interrupt the travel of the front axle. (yes the fenders are mounted backwards when rebuilt...) Ordered the parts for the gearbox and will update once they come in. Planned order of the build- Gearbox Wheels Test drive Stabilizers Building the frame/chassis of the TMM winch Scissor bridge Survive the misery
  14. This is an attempt to start collecting gearbox designs in a single thread. To get started, feel free to add existing gearboxes, but please always add a reference to the original designer. Also be sure to add some information on designer motorized or manual sequential or direct special features like paddle shifters and number of gears, e.g. 5+R. That will also help me in making an index in the OP. Or even better, if it can not be classified along these lines from the entry here, I will not add it to the index. Thanks!
  15. Here's my previous transmission design equipped with a torque-sensing shifter. The result is that the transmission starts at 4th speed and shifts down lower the more resistance the output meets. It's not perfect, the shifting is jerky because of a "gap" when both transmission rings are disengaged, but it works. I'm hoping somebody can improve on it and make it shift more smoothly. And the original transmission with instructions:
  16. Here I present an MOC gearbox with 1,000 different speeds. The gearing ratios are selected using 10 switching levers each of which adds a power of 2 to the overall output gearing ratio. A down gearing of 1000 to 1024 at the end of the gearbox means any 3 digit decimal gearing ratio can be selected, for example 0.123, 0.777 or 0.017. The gearbox uses over 130 gears and 12 differentials.
  17. Hello, I present here a small agricultural tractor. The origin of this model is simple. It has an educational value. I used the subject to begin explaining to my son the basic principles to achieve his own models. The purpose was therefore to explain to him the following principles: - Steering rack, steering wheel. - How does a pendular axle work? - The U-joint how does it work? - Differential utility, - Realization of a simple transmission, - How to properly cross a transmission axle and a steering shaft, - What is a gearbox? ; simplified application in on / off mode for a function. There were finaly lots off things to explain. And the result is a nice tractor, playable simple to build. Here it is : About the design, we are on a MF235 base or something like that, (it's not really important;) Some other views: The rear linkage is three-point type, the PTO is in the central position, offset from the wheel axle for realizing a transmission axle with the gearbox wich is located under the steering wheel and allows to put the PTO on/off. Closer: The lifting is carried out by means of a simple mini-cylinder controlled by a crank located on the left side of the tractor: The hood is openable, of course, and we have a small engine L3 in direct drive on the differential of the rear wheels: We added some details, such as a pseudo oil gauge: Small zoom on the PTO control, under the steering wheel: The front axle is pendular (thank you to the neighbor who showed it in real life to my son), a view of the driving position, with the high exhaust pipe , in order to not 'Gaz' the farmer :) And finally the traditional view from below or we somewhat sacrificed the possibilities of crossing by installing the mini-actuator, but ...Who cares? In the end this Moc comes back to me rather well, it fulfilled its first role;) What else? Steph.
  18. I wanted to make a small scale supercar model in the same scale as the Corvette. The TC18 was a perfect excuse to make a model with the following functions: 4 speed gearbox full working suspension a fake V8 engine working steering wheel openable doors Here is what I managed to create in LDD, inspired by the set 42111. I wanted to style the car like a 70's muscle car, so the fenders are brick-built to get the sharp lines needed. The final car is 40 studs long and 15 studs wide (excluding the mirrors). All of the described functions are implemented, the car is currently made out of around 900 pieces. I will post the WIP pics of the real build as soon as I start it.
  19. Hi everyone ! Today I'm glad to present my latest creation : a replica of a Le Mans Prototype, the Lola Aston Martin ! See below the result, I worked on this creation during 1,5 month : SPECIFICATIONS : - Fake V12 engine - Independent pushrod type suspensions - Steering by HOG + Working steering wheel - 4 speeds sequential transmission + paddle shifting - Rear cover articulated - Elytre openable doors DESIGN : I used this part https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=24118#T=C from 42056 Porsche to create the cockpit front curved shape. Into the cockpit you can find some details sport wheel and seat. The dashboard include speed indicator serigraphed tile but also green/red indicators to speeds shifting. Paddle shifting is created by 2 short yellow liftarms. You can notice presence of a red extinguisher ! Red and white pins indicate two sides of the paddle shifting ! FEATURES : To create the HOG, I used one couple of knobs and one couple of 16t. A friction axle avoid steering free wheeling. In other hand, doors are openable. For the rear cover, I used Nathanaël Kuipers tips to keep it open with friction like NK03 (https://www.nkubate.com/predator-supercar/) The fake V12 engine is a Crowkillers design : https://bricksafe.com/pages/Crowkillers/mini-v12 The sound it makes in functions of speeds is awesome ! Supensions pushrod system is a copy slightly modified of 8674 set. For the front pushrod I re-used Nico71 design like on his own LMP1 : https://www.nico71.fr/lmp1-racecar/ I created my own 4 speeds gearbox for this model. It's a flat design like 42056 Porsche one but there are less gears so less friction. I use blue rubber for the 90° indexor. See how its works in the video bellow. Ratios (without diff) : 1 : 1:1 2 : 1:1,667 3 : 1:3 4 : 1:5 I put a paddle shifting in the back of the car to up and down gearbox speeds. I re-designed 42083 shifter to make it smaller. MODULARITY : Main assembly is easily operate by a modular design. There are 6 modules and 2 structural elements. Cockpit itself is a part of main structure. I choose this kind of design in order to make instructions in the future. VIDEO : INSPIRATION : I'm sharing links of creations that somewhere gave me ideas for my Moc : https://www.hellobricks.com/2017/01/porsche-919-le-mans/ https://pikdo.biz/p/kimkamza/2048722475702589051_176999168 https://www.flickr.com/photos/158776396@N06/32215776147/in/album-72157676668829937/ https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/138348-porsche-962-c-le-mans-racer-in-185/ http://www.techlug.fr/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=10823&start=45 I hope you'll like it See full HD gallery on Flickr : https://www.flickr.com/photos/147164115@N07/albums/72157712427943327/with/49298358508/ See you !
  20. I think, it would make sense to open a new thread for the Unimog 8110 U-400, that includes all the MOCs, changes, improvements on the Unimog. It should also contain all the new attachments, equipments, that people build. It should show their ideas and what they are creating for this cool set. I am looking forward to see your creations! I'll start today. I implemented a pneumatic driven cargo bed. It is driven by the original motorized pump and works pretty well. The lifting angle could be better. So there is still room for inmprovments. For more pictures of this MOC plesae vistit my Flickr-page or (after publishing) my Brickshelf-folder. Regards, Gerhard
  21. I recently published my findings on using a sprung differential as a torque converter. I believe I have proved that a simple combination of a pb&g motor and a differential can amplify the pb&g's spring action down the drivetrain to compensate for a resistance on the wheel assembly. I would like to ask for some help with this. My mechanical engineering knowledge is topped out, and I'd really like to continue exploring this. Let me know if you have any ideas, more formal collaboration would be appreciated also. I'm looking at combining this torque converter with existing gearboxes, and also exploring its response at different speeds. http://imgur.com/gallery/IRGFReN
  22. Hi all, a while ago I posted about my 63 speed gearbox MOC using 6 switches and some people here asked for build instructions. These are now available on Rebrickable for those interested https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-40533/TechnicBrickPower/63-speed-gearbox-including-reverse/ youtube:
  23. Hi all! I finished this build yesterday, and am quite happy with the resulting model, so I took it out for some pictures today. Unfortunately the batteries in the model died out before I had a chance to film it, so I'll have to do that tomorrow (feel like I need to prove that all the functions actually do work on this one ) So here it is, the Tow Truck Mk II, a combination of a European truck with a typically American "rotator crane"(??) on the back (a Eurotator?) First some information regarding this MOC (of course, you don't have to read it ) As many of you might know, I built a pneumatic tow truck/recovery truck roughly two years ago, and a lot of you even seemed to like that model! When I finished that model, I wanted to make an RC PF version with the same functions and body, and I also wanted to make one powered by just one motor, with function switching gearboxes as the ones you see in most of the official non-RC PF sets released by TLG. Well, it only took about to years to get around to actually doing it! Due to the fundamentally different techniques building with pneumatics vs mechanical functions, some compromises had to be made, and some features could even be added! Firstly, this model has no suspension. The back of the model is pretty densely packed with axles and gears and functions, so fitting live axle suspension while maintaining a somewhat acceptable overall rigidity in the model was deemed impossible (for me) very early on. Also, du to the various functions going to the front, suspension there was not worth it either. Secondly, the swing-out outriggers of the original model from 2013 needed to be unnecessarily complicated, bulky, and not very strong, so I opted for an alternative solution. However, I did manage to make the fourth axle steered, something the 2013 model did not feature As you can see, it uses the genreal colour scheme and a lot of the stickered pieces from 8109. The model was initially all yellow, like the last one, but I wanted to spice things up a little, and am very happy with the resulting colours Okay, enough babbling, here are a couple of more pictures: In the above picture, everything is deployed/opened. The motorized functions are: 1. Tiltable cabin (small LA) 2. Front stabilizers/outriggers (small LAs) 3. Front winch 4. Middle outriggers (worm drives, self locking geometry) 5. Rear stabilizers/outriggers (small LAs) 6. Wheel lift elevation (small LAs) 7. Wheel lift extending (large LA) 8. Wheel lift tilting (small LA) 9. Crane rotation (worm drive) 10. Crane lifting (large LA) 11. Crane boom extending (worm drive/z8 gear/gear racks) 12. Crane winch Other features are: -Openable doors -Working V8 engine -Openable side- and rear panels (to access battery box, as well as some chains and attachments for the towing fork) -Proportional steering with Ackermann geometry on axles 1, 2 and 3. The crane superstructure has two gearboxes for the three functions up there. That means there is a constantly running single axle going through the turntable, and the cranes functions are selected up top. This allows for infinite rotation, with none of the cranes' functions being affected. Yeah, I know that bull barmight be ever so slightly overkill, but IMO it's not too bad It can even lift things directly in front of it Lastly, the underside shot: Also, for those who haven't seen them yet, here are a couple of quick renders showing the internals of the model: And with colour coding for the various functions All pictures and renders can be found in higher resolution in the appropriate Bricksafe folder. Overall I'm quite happy with the resulting model, but even though all functions work, at least one of them is not ideal (cabin tilt; I'm looking at you). Also, I feel the crane superstructure could be made more elegant. Anyway, hope to be able to make the video tomorrow! Comments, thoughts and criticism is as always appreciated!
  24. Here I present a 256 speed gearbox controlled by 8 switches. This design is based on a 2 differential N to P gear ratio design presented in one of my other videos. The gearbox allows 256 different gearing ratios to be selected.
  25. Zerobricks

    Tiger 4 x 4 x 4

    After completion and playing with the Leopard for a few months, I noticed the model had a few shortcomings which I wanted to eliminate with this version. These include: Suspension oscilations at high torque High center of gravity Instability on rough terrain at high speeds Most of these issues were due to the usage of the torque tube suspension which is simply too heavy and unresponsive at high speeds. What I needed was to replace the live axle suspension with independent suspension while keeping the articulation needed for offroading. Here's what I came up with: Let's break down the suspension to it's basic components to better understand how it works: Colored green are the main shock absorbers. These caryy most of the wight and provide a high suspension travel Colored orange are the gearbox transfer arms which fix each perpendicular gearbox firmly to the suspension, thereby reducing friction and fixing the U joints to keep them from popping out. Colored black are the side beams which help guide the transfer arms and hold the suspension together Colored in red and gray are the two independent drivelines powering the wheels. Finally in transparent, the suspension arms are made as long as possible for maximum suspension travel. I built the first version with this setup, but soon discovred a flaw. The torque from the drivelines would push the suspension arms down, causing the suspension to stop responding (indicated with red and grey arrows in photo above). In order to solve this problem I added the suspension bridge above, colored in pruple. The suspension bridge performs the following functions: Compensation of the driveline torque Supports 20% of the model's weight Improves articulation when going over rough terrain With the suspension solved, I turned my attention to the chassis. I wanted a model with high torque and high speed. To achieve that I installed a two speed gearbox for each independent driveline powered by a total of 4 RC motors: Finally a very sturdy chassis based on frames was built to support the model. Each axle was given it's own independent steering with servo motor and each driveline has an M motor for switching gears. This redundacy means that even if half of the model breaks down, it can still drive back home. Next step was building the model in real life. Thanks to ForwART's custom stickers the exterrior really came to life: The doors can be opened, revelaing two seats and the steering wheel: Each wheel has over 6 cm of wheel travel, allowing the Tiger extreme articulation rivaling live axle setups: And let's not forget the most important photo of them all: Finally, since there is only so much I can tell in words, enjoy the video experience: As usual the LDD file of the model is available by clicking the photo or link below: https://www.bricksafe.com/files/Zblj/tiger-4x4x4/Tiger 4x4x4.lxf To summarize, compared to the previous Leopard, the Tiger has the following improvements: Improved stability due to the independent suspension and low chassis Higher top speed due to the gearboxes Eliminated suspension oscilation Improved performance at high speed thanks to lighter and more responsive independent suspension Improved maneuverability thanks to all wheel steering Sadly there are also a few drawbacks which I plan to fix in the future version: When pushing the model hard in Ludicrous mode and in low gear the 12 tooth bewel gears can get damaged and need to be replaced Low steering angle (18 degrees) Because only one servo motor is used per axle, steering is more prone to be bumped out of center.