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[MOC] RC Excavator powered by BuWizz
Anto posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
One BuWizz, it's good. But two, it's better, because you can make MOCs having 8 functions! I have already done a full RC compact excavator, but with LEGO IR receivers. I wanted do make another excavator without the gearbox allowing to choose between the rotation of the arm and the pneumatic pump. Furthermore, the M motors were just enough powerful to move the arm. On this new excavator, it's different. I tried to make the mecanic as compact as possible. And the arm is controlled with more powerful motors: 1 L and 1 XL. So now you can... dig on gravel with a GoPro attached on the arm, and the motors bear that easily! There is a good speed and so much power to do anything you want! For the design, I tried to cover the maximum and I kept a color scheme close to the one of my previous excavator. To switch on the BuWizz of the turret, you need to open the part behind the cab. The hood is also openable, but there is nothing interesting to see. ^^ So the functions are: -> Controlled by the bottom BuWizz: Left track (M motor) Right track (M motor) Blade (M motor) LEDs (of the cab and the arm) -> Controlled by the BuWizz of the turret: Turn table (L motor) 1st part of the arm (XL motor) 2nd part of the arm (L motor) Bucket (M motor) You have certainly noticed that there are shock absorbers. It's for the tension of the tracks. The LEDs: And the video! The BuWizz are in Fast mode and I used the app BrickController, done by @imurvai. It's perfect for this MOC! -
[WIP] 42043S (RC Arocs 3245 with SBrick)
Sphexish posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Greetings! After coming out of my Dark Ages and tackling both the excellent Ultimate 8043 & 42009 (see below) designed by Jurgen Krooshoop, I was hungry for another Lego Technic challenge. But I felt rather lost at this point: without a large collection of loose Technic pieces at my beck and call, motorized MOCs which weren't heavily based on existing Lego sets would require some hefty Bricklink investments from my part. Fortunately, a fifteen-percent-off-everything anniversary sale at a local toy store with an expansive Lego section made the choice for my next project a lot simpler: they had the 42043 Arocs set that had already been calling out to my wallet since way back in oh-fifteen. They also had a certain little gizmo called an SBrick in stock, which I had heard quite a few things about. My previous builds had involved standard PF receivers and remotes, so it seemed like an interesting new challenge to incorporate this new-fangled blue-toothed thing-a-ma-jig into my already-slightly-more-challenging attempt at "RC-afying" the Mercedes. I'm already a little way into the project, but I've already made a few false starts and moronic missteps, so I figured it might be educational for others to document my frantic flailing about experiences, so that they might avoid my (myriad) mistakes. The first thing I did, of course, was to order the necessary PF components: a Servo Motor, an L-Motor, an 20cm extension cable, and a couple of PF lights. In hindsight, this already turned out to be my first mistake: I hadn't done my research properly and hadn't realized that the SBrick requires an extension cable to be hooked up to a battery box. This meant I was probably going to be one cable short, since I didn't think the cable for the L-motor used for drive would reach. While I waited for these crucial parts to be delivered, I began preliminary work on the Arocs proper. After completing most of bags 1 to 3, I had three loosely connected main sections of the truck - the cabin housing the 6-cilinder engine and the L-motor that came with the set, the gearbox with the outriggers, and the rear section with the dumping bed and the differentials. In my mind, I could already see a problem arising: there was a drivetrain going from the rear wheels all the way to the engine in the front of the truck, which would obviously make the pistons move as you move the truck along. I already guessed I would be severing this connection by remove the driveshaft with the CV joint and attaching an L-motor in the center somewhere. Which would render the engine, the drivetrain, etc. utterly useless. This was not acceptable - not in the last place because my kids had unanimously decided that seeing the pistons in my 42009 mobile crane move was officially The Coolest Thing Ever™. So I fiddled about a bit before connection these three main sections, and eventually came up with this: Might be a bit hard to see, but... Basically, I placed an additional small gear directly in-between the L-motor and the gearbox, which allows it to power the axles and gears connected to the piston engine when in use. So, it wouldn't be connected to the drive anymore, but at least there could be some motorized eye-candy when one swung back the cabin and fired up the main engine. It wasn't long before my motors and such arrived, so the first I tried to accomplish was to connect the L-motor for the drive somewhere. One nifty solution I'd found involved replacing the engine in the front and using the long drive-train to power the rear wheels -- a technique I thoroughly rejected for several reasons: It seemed inefficient, and COOLEST. THING. EVER. So I figured I'd just bolt the bloody thing directly to the rear diff, as I'd also seen in this fascinating and classically scored tutorial vid by RC-master PPUNG daddy: It didn't sit right with me to just attach the motor with two pins like that though, so I have attempted to support it a little bit better without messing up the way the rear suspension works too much. Right now, it looks something like this: Not exactly perfect, but it seems to work well enough, even when I give the suspension a bit of a work-out. Next came the steering. My first attempt was based on this extremely helpful Youtube video by yu shine: Basically, this involved just connecting the Servo directly to the standard HOG steering mechanism for the Arocs, just below the two orange lights-slash-knobs at the top which you're supposed to turn. It seemed the most simple and elegant and -- being but a simple soul -- this naturally appealed to me greatly. It also didn't require the purchase of any additional parts, and left the mechanically unique way the steering on the Arocs model works intact. At this point I was able to put together a sort of prototype for the RC driving, by dangling the SBrick from the battery box and just hooking everything up in a makeshift manner. After installing the app, setting up the official 42043S profile, and playing around with my handiwork for a bit, I discovered the following issues: The L-motor was supplying quite a bit of power, making the truck actually pretty hard to control. Of course, there was a lot of weight left to be added at this point, so I was willing to reserve judgement for the time being, but given that my kids no doubt want to play around with this thing as well it'd be nice if I could prevent them from semi-accidentally ramming a massive Lego vehicle into, well, practically everything. Not sure how I could address though, other than from the software side. Placing the Servo motor where it was, behind the battery box, didn't actually fit all that well. The battery box itself actually pushed up against the servo when inserted, bending it back by at least a stud, which also frustrated my attempts to secure it in place a bit further. The steering was a bit... inadequate. The problems regarding the steering I recalled Sariel already mentioning in were only exacerbated here. It felt imprecise and rather unresponsive, and it didn't help that there was quite a bit of play in the wheels even with the Servo hooked up, meaning they weren't necessarily centered even when it was. So in the end, I stripped the away the steering mechanism and the wheels up front until I was left with this: After that, I decided to pony up and order the parts which -- after careful visual inspection of PPung's tutorial -- I figured I'd still need to mount the servo at the bottom, between the two sets of front wheels. So, mostly a set of gear racks and gears, in addition to some beams and various connectors used for bracing. This also gave me the chance to simultaneously order an extra extension cable from the same supplier, since it was pretty clear I was going to be needing it if I wanted to have any hope of hooking up the drive motor to the SBrick up front. And now, we wait... Although, to pass the time, I busied myself with rebuilding the back of the cabin, which I had previously taken apart to place the servo motor. I didn't need all the gears used for the steering mechanism, of course, and I figured I'd be better off trying to mount the SBrick in this space instead. For the moment, I came up with the following: I did notice the two black Technic pins still sticking out back there, and peeking ahead in the manual revealed that these will be used to help brace the pneumatic crane, once the time comes to attach that beast. As far as I can tell, that should still be possible even with the SBrick where it is, but no doubt I'll have screwed up somehow. We'll find out in the next update, hopefully! (Assuming, quite optimistically, that there is actual interest in such a thing. ) -
[MOC] "VOODOO" Custom Lowrider
Paliason posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hi Guys! I finished my new model. I didn't hold on to any real car, but it is similar to the old classic Chevrolet Bell Air / Impala. There's nothing to open, it's just a riding model. Drive / Turn = standard L-Motor / Servo. There is a 1:1 transfer from the L-motor to the differential. photos: FLICKR -
What do you kindly think? (For God’s sake I don’t think there is an already created topic for this! If there is, I am so sorry, again ) Best Regards, Idris -
Here is the Bio-containment Armoured Transport - Mobile, or "B.A.T. Mobile" for short. It is based on set 76112 App-Controlled Batmobile, with aesthetic changes to fit the M:Tron style. Instead of being only black (and sometimes very dark grey), it adopts the lovely M:Tron red-and-black with trans-neon-green colour scheme. I also extended the wheel axles to allow the addition of disks for a more futuristic look. Some of the changes were dictated by the lack of versions in the correct colours of some of the parts, most notably the black Tilted Corners 4X4 W/Angle (design ID 43708) in the front and the trans-red Cockpit 6X6X2 (Design ID 35331). Since this is M:Tron we're talking about, obviously I also had to remove the stud shooters. Other changes were mandated by the parts I had at hand... The bio-containment unit window at the top glows when the vehicle is loaded and ready to roll. I intend to bring it to Skærbæk Fan Weekend this year, for you to see it if you're interested.
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Hi again, Especially the Technic Fans part of this community, hosts people from almost all ages, say 9+ So, I think, this is a tough question: What do you think: Should the newer sets have more models which are: * More complex but without motor(s) and/or RC, * More complex and with motor(s) and RC, * Less complex but without motor(s) and/or RC, * Less complex and with motor(s) and RC, * Stay in the same "choice/production system by LEGO" or, * Leave the moddings/mods to the MOC creators? You may say that "it depends", you may say that "the topic is stupidly created because some are more into classic models with lots of mechanical but not motorized/RC parts, some do, so there is no definitive answer to this", BUT, I would kindly like to have your OWN thoughts. For example; I would like to see a Bugatti Chiron Set which has the same complex system, but also being able to be remote controlled and capable of reaching at least 25 km/h. Take this topic like a poll with detailed answers with intra-members-communication, as well. I hope I made myself clear. Many thanks in advance and, Best Regards, Idris
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1967 Eleanor Mustang + Instructions
Lox Lego posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
The classic 1967 Ford Eleanor GT500 was a fearsome beast in its day, with a 428 cubic inch big block rippling the pavement courtesy of an astounding 355 horsepower. It's also the car made famous as "Eleanor," Steve McQueen's awesome ride in the original 1974 movie Gone In Sixty Seconds. With so much heritage to this classic car, I knew this build had to reflect that hardcore stance and styling everyone grew to love. 1967 Eleanor Mustang- let’s drive by lachlan cameron, on Flickr In an attempt to stay true to the mechanics and design, I began with the classic live axle rear suspension and an inboard suspension style in the front with Ackerman steering and torsion bar. 1967 Eleanor Mustang- Chrome engine block, gold pistons, red chrome wheels - by lachlan cameron, on Flickr I threw my new red chrome rims on the car just for a quick photo with lots of bling :) 1967 Eleanor Mustang by lachlan cameron, on Flickr The car also sports front and rear headlights, motorized hood and trunk, 2 XL motors for drive, 1 servo motor for steering, 2 Buwizz batteries in the trunk, a chrome V8 engine block with gold pistons, working fan and blower, snap back doors. 1967 Eleanor Mustang by lachlan cameron, on Flickr I did try to follow the shape of the car closely, as you can see in the overlay below: 1967 Eleanor Mustang by lachlan cameron, on Flickr After so many new challenges on this car I'm fairly satisfied with the outcome. So sit back, grab a cuppa and check the video! And as always - a huge thanks to my brother @DugaldIC , @KD123 & @technic_addict for their support throughout this build. -
[MOD] RC Koenigsegg Agera RS1 Megacar 1:10
T Lego posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hello everyone, I'd like to share my latest MOD: Koenigsegg Agera RS1 This car is one of my favorite road-going super/hyper/megacars, and therefore I decided to build it. To me and many others, Koenigsegg is a very special car manufacturer: It was founded in the nineties by Cristian von Koenigsegg, a man without any engineering education background and budget. On top of that, all Koenigseggs are handcrafted and are produced in limited quantities. I like the RS in particular, beceause it is IMO the most beautifull Koenigsegg and it holds the top speed world record. This car is not fully designed by me. @Pvdb build the Koenigsegg one:1 more than two years ago. The RS1 and One:1 have very similar Bodyworks and since Pvdb nailed that on his One:1, i decided to use his bodywork as a shell around my disigned chassis. In addition to that, I also used his door meganism, beceause I could not imagine me designing a better one Specifications: Dimensions 59x27x15 Studs Weight: 2600 g Estimated parts quantity: 2500 parts Powerfuntion elements: 2x PF AAA batteries, 2x PF V2 reciever ,4x PF L motor, 1x PF Servo motor, 1x PF M motor, 2x PF 50 cm wire The RS1 is basically the same as any other RS, but it has the one MegaWatt engine upgrade. The RS1 is specced in white with a black center stripe and it has many blue accents such as the interior, skirts, spoiler, diffuser and front splitter. Many of those parts of the RS1 have just a very thin stripe of blue painted on it. This means you can not replicate that with regulare LEGO parts. Stickers seemed like the only solution, but at some point the idea to use rubber bands for some accents popped in my mind. I only used this trick in the front splitter. Features: Easily removable Roof, like the real car Openable front trunk and engine bay Motorized dihedral synchro-helix actuation doors, Powered by a PF M motor Front double wishbone suspension with negative caster angle Rear triplex suspension with double wishbones Steering with working steering wheel, powered by a PF Servo motor Propulsion with working V8 engine, powered by 4x PF L motor I wanted both doors to be opeable by just one motor. This meant I had to make selector for wich door is connected to the motor. I had some free space in the center tunnel, so I decided to use the handbrake as a selector. Just behind the front wheels there is a driving ring wich can engage in two different clutch gears. Both clutch gears are connected to different doors. The motor and this meganism is placed underneath the trim. Here is the full 'transformer mode'. The front trunk and engine cover can be opened manually. If you look closely, you can see the battery and The L motors behind the seats. The recievers are placed behind the rear axle. Replicating the triplex suspension was for me a 'must have' on this car. It consists of two inclined shock absorbers and a horizontally placed pneumatic cilinder. The pneumatic cilinder is definately the most realistic looking way to make the central shock, but it is not practical. It offers resistance when extending and retracting, so I mounted some springs behind it to ensure that the model doesn't sag. In addition to all of that I also put some links on the suspension system. They are only there for an aesthetic reason though. finally, a video demonstration. Enjoy! Comments and questions are welcome! -
MOD - 8416 Fork-lift Motorized & RC
Chilekesh posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hi everyone, Here's my modification of 8416, fully motorized and remote controlled. An additional function is the working & tilting steering wheel. The PF elements used are: - 1 M-motor for driving - 1 Servo motor for steering - 1 M-motor for lifting - 1 M-motor for tilting the lifting assembly. - 2 IR receivers - 1 Rechargeable battery box Rebrickable: http://rebrickable.com/mocs/Chilekesh/8416-fork-lift-motorized-rc Bricksafe: http://bricksafe.com/pages/Chilekesh/8416-motorized (*.lxf file can be downloaded here). Any suggestions on improvements are very welcome. Happy building! -
Hello Eurobrick ! Short introduction to my latest MOC : a wheel dozer. A wheel dozer is basically a big blade to push material mounted on 4 (or more) wheels mostly used in mining industry. It is a quite simple vehicle I suppose this is one reasin it is not built a lot in Technic. By the way, I’m a bit late to post this, it is already more than a week old. What’s inside? Propulsion is made through a PF-XL motor placed at the rear end of the truck with a fake L6 engine. The vehicle is 4 wheel drive with a differential on both front and rear axle, plus the rear axle is pendular. A servomotor is used for steering in a simplified technic than the one used on set 42030 (Volvo L350). The front blade is also operated by a single Servomotor which accomodate the upper-lower positionning easily, and intermediate position can also be reached thanks to the use of the BuWizz controller. (sorry last picture is a bit dark I will regenerate it later) Additionnal info on this MOC and some other general info on wheel dozer on my blog at : https://superk-technic.com/wheel-dozer/ Thank you for reading !
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Hello guys! At last I can represent to all of you my latest MOC. It's a Lego Technic Liebherr LR 11000 Crawler Crane. I tried to build a copy of a famous Liebherr-brand crawler crane. If to be honest it was my dream to build a human-high technic crane. This model is approx two meters high. It has five independent winches! Real crane has six, but two of them goes to one hook, what was not necessary to represent in lego version. Except string crane is build of 100% Lego. As a counterweight I used three big battery boxes in the superstructure and three ones in the additional counterweight carriage. Below I will list crane's functions. RC: 1,2) Chassis drive and steering - one L motor for each track. 3) Superstructure rotation 4) Operator's cabin uplifting via small linear actuator 5) Main boom winch 6) Luffing Jib winch - winch is located on the main boom like in the original model 7) First hook winch 8) Second hook winch - winch is located on the main boom like in the original model Manual: 1) Derrick boom winch - needs only when assembling/disassembling crane 2) Addiction counterweight extensioin - need to balance crane under heavy loads 3) Addiction counterweight up/low - need to balance crane under heavy loads or without a load 4) Addiction counterweight steering - need to steer wheels in the counterweight carriage when superstructure rotating and need to make wheels parallel to move crane forward or backward 5) Chassis uplifting - chassis have installed four small linear actuators which can lift the chassis under the ground to put on tracks like in the real Liebherr!! As TLG doesn't have any pulleys of 0.5 stud wide and with the pin hole in the center and 3D parts are too expensive I decided to drill the original ones. Firstly I used 4 mm drill to make a round hole instead of an axle, after 4,5 mm and finished with the 5 mm drill. No any part was broke. And this time I already has video to show you: And a couple of photos. https://bricksafe.com/pages/Aleh/liebherr_lr_11000 Hope you will like it. Feel free to ask any questions. Also very appreciate critics. But for sure my wife definitely will not stand another crane To start building i was inspired by the set 42042 - I love it too moch! -
[MOC] Azimus mini rc racecar
syclone posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Good Day! So I was really bored this friday, and wondered how small a buggy motor powered car can be, just for pure interest. As it turns out, 2 buggy motors don't occupy that much space XD. So here it is, mini-size car powered by two beasts, Azimus! Needless to say, it's crazy fun! Design was inspired by Lexus concept vehicle from Minority Report, and Deora II from HotWheels. Albeit it was mainly made that way to accomodate the BuWizz as low as possible and turned out different from both. Pics on G-Drive and Brickshelf whenever it approves. Video&photos below (click to enlarge) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RCORMtsr1JY Have a Nice Day! -
Lancia Delta Integrale
Porsche96 posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Lancia Delta Integrale Specification Scale 1:14 Length 37s / width 19s / height 13s (54/23,5/13,5 cm) Weight: 1050 g Front suspension: none Rear suspension: none AWD Functions Driving - 3L Steering - Servo Today, I want to present Lancia Delta Integrale. I’m sure that everyone know the original one, which won many rallies. There was few versions of Integrale: from norma road cars to monster with power of hundreds hp. This model is usual one. My main goal was to build small, fast car, which gives a lot of fun. The construction is quite simple. Lancia is driven by 3Ls - 2Ls for rear, powered by 8878 BB and IR receiver V2, and one L for front, powered by 8800 BB. For steering (with Ackermann geometry) I used servo. Photos Gallery I encourge you to follow my new Instagram account. -
[MOC] Ultimate Muscle Car
paave posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hi! There's a third version of my muscle car: - PF: XL, M, IR, LiPo - Opening doors, bonnet, trunk - Independent front suspension - Leaf spring rear suspension - Working supercharger - Rubber return to center mechanism - Adjustable seats - Removable body. Video: More photos: Building Instructions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-17750/paave/ultimate-muscle-car/ -
RC Chevrolet Corvette Z06 MOC
Dylan Sebastian posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
I made this model a long time ago, and I just figured that I'll share it here too. Features: PF RC driving by 2 XL motors PF RC steering by a servo motor PF RC opening doors by 2 M motors working front PF lights Independent suspensions on all wheels Openable hood Working fake V8 engine The white tubes for the body are not official LEGO parts, I bought them in a local supermarket in the party equipment section. The video shows the old version of the model which did not have the doors motorized and the back slightly different. The pictures with white background are the new version. Video: Some more pictures: More pictures: https://flic.kr/s/aHsky5B5Cd Instruction: Google Drive: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B14dC4ffenNhR1NJa1ZuZGgzVVU Dropbox: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ancnq6nvmtuuaja/Z06.zip?dl=0 -
[RC] 42000 - Lego Grand Prix Racer
harpoon posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
LEGO Purists ... please stop reading now ... the following will make your blood boil ... Hi all, t is the F1 season at the moment and I am getting back into Lego. The last time I "worked" on a Technic set, they still had the LEGO studs on them ... not anymore ! I recently purchased a 42000 set and was quite pleased with the mechanics and looks of it. I was also pleased to know that there is an option to motorize it. To my horror, the motorization is pretty lame (lifting hood and flaps ?!). Was I expecting too much ? Anyway, I digress ... This post is a record of my attempt to properly RC motorize it, while still keeping the aesthetics of the 42000. After a couple of weeks of evening research, I came to the conclusion that the LEGO electronics is not up to the job. They are just too bulky and the electronics is still stuck in the 90s ! Have LEGO not heard of brushless motors or LiPo power ? After seeing all the other attempts to motorize the 42000, I have decided to embark on my own journey. Here are my thoughts ... MAIN AIM : a) I like the engine block, so I'm going to do my best to preserve it. b) Putting a battery box at the back is a definite NO-NO c) Ripping out the exhaust tubings is OK as it is usually hidden under the hood. d) IR control is a bit outdated ... Let's use 2.4GHz ! e) Use LiPo as they have the highest energy density vs weight. We are building an F1 car after all ! STRATEGY : 1) Keep LEGO differential (somehow I am very fond of the diff ...). Use a LEGO PF L Motor to drive the rear wheels. Looking at the unit, there should be some space below the engine block to fit it. Using a LEGO motor means that will be mechanically strong, and the L motor has lots of fixing holes. 2) This is where it starts to deviate ... Use RC parts for the transceiver, battery, servo and ESC. This is because the RC (esp Drone) community has lots to offer here. Let's list the parts ... i) Transceiver : I am leaning towards a Drone stick transceiver using 2.4GHz. These days, they have automatic frequency hopping, so less (maybe none) interference with other RC signals. Also, the drone transceivers have loads of channels (6-10) ... good for upgrade options (adding lights, sounds, more motors, etc ...). The only drawback I can see is that the stick throttle control is not sprung (return-to-centre). So it will be tricky keeping it stationary. (it will be wanting to nudge forward or backward). ii) Battery : LiPo, 11.1V (High V for more RPM). Was looking around and there seems to be a lot of options here in different sizes. Found some that will fit in the F1 sidepods. Will have to remove the exhaust tubes, but that is OK. As I am not using the PF IR receiver, 11.1V or 12.6V from the LiPo should be fine for the LEGO motor ... will need to check how much it heats up when stalled. Maybe add a Zener diode to drop the voltage slightly if needed. iii) Servo : This is beginning to get tricky. I need to find one that will fit under the F1 front nose. There is not a lot going on in there, so I think this should be ok ... How to secure it to the LEGO ? Well, some nylon nuts and bolts of course ... and some custom plastic pieces I guess. This will be a Macgyver (1985) job. iv) ESC : Since the Lego L motor is essentially a brushed motor (380 or 280 motor ? Can someone confirm ?), the standard RC brushed ESC (Electronic Speed Controllers) should work ? I have bought a PF extension wire to be modified so that it can be connected to the ESC. FUTURE WORK : 1) Add a brake light and motorize the flaps and hood as well ? (lowest priority) 2) Add a FPV camera (maybe one that looks like a driver in the driving seat) 3) Add SPEED. Replace wheels+assembly with one that have bearings, metal CV joint, differential, axle ... 4) Add sensors (speedometer, temperature, ...) 5) Add a soundbox ... realistic F1 sounds ?! 6) Maybe add a "brain" ... micro-controller ... make it autonomous ? So that's the plan ... comments and suggestions welcomed ! -
[MOC] Compact RC Semi-trailer truck
Hogwartus posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
I' ve made a scale model of semi-trailer truck with a trailer. It's in 1:60 scale, so wouldn't look out of place in a minifigure scale Lego City. But it is remotely controlled. Video: Functions: drive (truck RWD) - L motor steering (with right geometry) - Servo motor remotely openable trailer's cargo door - M motor Everything is controlled remotely using SBrick, powered by standard 8881 battery box. Internals of the trailer, door opening mechanism, battery box and sbrick were packed here: Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. __________________________ Feel free to share your thoughts. I hope you liked this model. -
[WIP] Gravedigger - Monster Truck Chassis v1 RC with BuWizz
TheQuoteMan posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Fellow Technic Builders, Let me share my first serious and almost finished MOC - possible the most recognisable Monster Truck of all times, Gravedigger. Firstly, let's start with the picture of the real ting, in case you are not as obsessed with Monster Trucks/Gravedigger as I am: And here my version (now with stickers) The idea of recreating it with Technic was what drove me back to Lego after my dark ages. Firstly I wanted to just do a simple MOD of 42005 with body and colour swap, but then we've got the Claas tires which are a perfect fit for this project, so it got bigger and bigger. Anyway, here we are after two years of building: 2XL engines for power, geared up 3 times (one engine per axle) 2 servos for steering PF switch controlled by a M engine for switching from crab steering to opposite LEGO Lights Weight: 1281g Dimensions: 44 studs or 35cm long 15 studs or 12cm wide (chassis) 27 studs or 22cm wide (wheels) 32 studs or 26cm tall Performance wise is runs 3:1 geared up XL engines powered through BuWizz which combined with low centre of gravity allows for a fun stuff like less or more controlled driving on side two wheels: And to be seen in a video: Plus a video of the steering switch at work: The model is not very mechanically realistic, e.g. it has portal axles while the monster trucks use planetary geared axles, but it is my first MOC and it was meant to be fun in outdoor, not off-road play and it is. There is a mention of the chassis being v1 in the topic. I want to improve it and develop optimal Monster Truck chassis and have a set of bodies to replace on the top. As such, I am recreating the model in stud.io for my reference and possible instructions and the renders of the powertrain are available in links below (I don't want to overburden the post with pictures, anyone who will be interested in them will surely click a link). Build time so far: 2 years. This is my first MOC, I know it is far from perfect (e.g no torque allowing to climb a ramp and have enough speed to make a decent jump) but is fun for me so far and overall I am happy with the result. https://ibb.co/mVecNT https://ibb.co/ew12p8 https://ibb.co/f8rDwo https://ibb.co/dinWhT I have also ordered a set of custom stickers for the details and they are on the way. Can't wait to hear your opinions, guys as the stuff being published here humbles me with cleverness and complexity. -
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[AMS-2][MOD] Lego 9394 RC Dragster - Powered by a buggy motor!
mocbuild101 posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Yes, it's an airplane that can drift! (or rather do doughnuts) But first, I think the video is the best introduction: Cool, isn't it? I was actually very surprised how well it worked when I first tested it - especially considering how bad my previous MODs were.. (in fact, it's probably the only RC set MOD that I've done that worked at all!) It was quite a challenge to fit all the electrics in such a small body, and was actually the main reason why I only kept one of the original functions... Features: Steering - powered by PF servo. Drive - geared down 3:5 from fast output of buggy motor. Motorized wings (not RC) - powered by PF M-motor. Easy to remove battery box - if not using rechargeable battery. Other Specs: Weight: 650g (with rechargeable battery) Original functions kept: 1 (out of 3) Theoretical top speed: 14km/h (at least) Links: YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pTW9vclg0c Bricksafe: https://www.bricksafe.com/pages/mocbuild101/9394-rc-dragster-mod Contest voting: https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/162664-ams-2-dragify-your-set-voting More photos: Enjoy! And don't forget to vote! -
New attempt at RC Forklift
steph77 posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hi all, Here is an attempt at building a new forklift. My previous one used the TLG design for the boom. This time i decided to build my own. Why? Just because the TLG boom had a big inner central mecha that makes impossible for the driver to look in front of him... I solved this by using a string based mechanics to lift the first stage of the mast. The second stage is also indirectly lift by the first one's movement. The whole arm has a tilting mechanism: The model has a propulsion base on one medium size motor, a tilting mechanism based on the same one. The direction is made with a servoand the main lifting use also a medium size motor. At all stage, the power is enough. Some other pictures: Front view. the driver just can look in front of him. Good idea no? Maximun size of the full open mast The model has drive and steering. Led light are also at party. The steering Wheel is custom made using technic disk and a Polly tire I hope you'll like it. Steph -
[MOC] RC Buggy powered by BuWizz
Anto posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
For the "Fast car competition" organized by BuWizz, I have done that: For this contest, you have to make a vehicle with suspensions, and do a video showing it doing at least one jump. Of course, the MOC must be powered by a BuWizz! For the steering, there is a servomotor. The driving is done by two L motors, with a 1:1.8 ratio. So the buggy has a correct speed, and enough torque to be driven on dirt, sand... It is fully suspended. The front is an ordinary system. But for the rear, I couldn't do independant suspensions (not enough compact) or a suspended axle (because as the motors are in the chassis, when you accelerate the axle tilts). So I done an "amost suspended axle". The liftarms thin 5L have an effect of anti roll-bar. I have tried to do a light design. Thus, the MOC weighs 460 grams. -
The Honda CR-Z is a sport compact hybrid electric automobile manufactured by Honda and marketed as a "sport hybrid coupe.The CR-Z combines a hybrid gasoline-electric powertrain with traditional sports car elements, most notably having a 2+2 seating arrangement and a standard 6-speed manual transmission. The CR-Z is regarded as the spiritual successor to the second generation Honda CR-X in both name and exterior design. Honda CR-Z - Drive it like you own it by lachlan cameron, on Flickr This is a special design and is a one off build. No instructions will be made of this car. Honda CR-Z - Drive it like you own it by lachlan cameron, on Flickr I worked with my client on the features and design of the car to ensure accuracy to the original car - the 2016 Honda CR-Z! Honda CR-Z - red hatchback by lachlan cameron, on Flickr This car sports 4wd, torsion bar suspension front and rear, working steering wheel, RC doors powered by 2 m-motors tucked into the Center console, opening trunk and hood, 4 cyl. In-line engine, 2 lipo batteries and 2 Sbricks, 4 light in the front, 2 light at the rear. Honda CR-Z - Drive it like you own it by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Flickr album: https://flic.kr/s/aHskBY38RU Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/loxlego Honda CR-Z - Drive it like you own it by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Honda CR-Z - Drive it like you own it by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Honda CR-Z - Drive it like you own it by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Honda CR-Z - Drive it like you own it by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Honda CR-Z - Drive it like you own it by lachlan cameron, on Flickr
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Lego Technic 9397 Logging Truck RC Mod with Sbrick
TmoneyTechnic posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hey guys, sorry I haven't posted in a while. I've had the clips to make this video for 2 months now, but not enough time to edit. Anyhow, with that said, here's what I have done. I have rebuilt both of the rear axles so they can be driven by 2 L-Motors, and rebuilt the front axle so that it can be steered by a servo, and still be able to fit an engine and have room in the cab for other motors. I also rebuilt the front of the truck since it seemed too sparse to me, but I've left the rest of the truck (besides some of the internals) original. I decided I only wanted to use a single Sbrick, and I had only one port left, since there was already an M-Motor in the model to drive the functions connected to the distribution gearbox, so I built a custom sequential shifter that I could fit in the cab, and access the axles of the changeover catches in the gearbox, and thus shift through the functions sequentially. This is done with one M-Motor. All of the internal mechanics of the gearbox were left stock, besides the elimination of any white 24 tooth clutch gears. I did not change the rest of the model that much, though I did think having an inline-4 seemed kind of lame, so I put in a V8 instead. i will not release any instructions due to the extense of the modifications. Please enjoy the video and photos below, and feel free to leave a reply! -
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MOC Tank LT vz. 38 (Pz. 38 (t))
Technic BOOM posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Czechoslovakia WW2 tank. Power functions: 1x XL motor 2x L motor 3x M motor Fuction and chassis Lego. Desing Cobi small army WW2. -
Czechoslovakia WW2 tank. Power functions: 1x XL motor 2x L motor 3x M motor Fuction and chassis Lego. Desing Cobi small army WW2.
