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Found 13 results

  1. I think it's time to update and rebuild the legend.. Differences between the old and the new model: Because the model will be powered by 3x BuWizz instead of 4 AA battery boxes, it will be at least a kilogam lighter. Independent suspension will be changed to a live axle suspended pendular type. This will allow for much more movement when going offroad and more even weight distribution on the axles. Gear ratio will be changed from 1:3 to 1:1,677 due to the increased power of the motors, decreased weight and improved suspension - making the model 80% faster. NO MORE U JOINTS. Since no U joint, or CV can withstand the torque of an XL motor powered by BuWizz, the motors are now directly mounted on the hubs and steer with the wheels. Because there are no U joints the axle can be narrower by 4 studs, but I had to sacrifice a stud of ground clearance comapared to the old one. Servo steering - steering is now updated with 2 servo motors, each in their own axle. Front-most axle's steering angle is 25 degrees. Rear axles no longer need steering due to... Differential steering - since all motors can be individually controlled, the BuWizz's app allows for automatic correction of motor speeds when steering. This means the model can steer even tighter by reducing the speed of the inner motors when steering. Improved wheel mounting points using parts 24122 - the torque is now sent directly to the inside of the wheels without having to use 24 tooth gears and pins. I ordered the missing components and will send photos of the build as it progresses. For the bodywork I am thinking about a red cabine, but not sure which style - high and flat, or low which stick out in front further. Additional functions will be a winch in the front and possibly a crane arm in the back - I will decide on that after I see how it performs.
  2. Hi again, Especially the Technic Fans part of this community, hosts people from almost all ages, say 9+ So, I think, this is a tough question: What do you think: Should the newer sets have more models which are: * More complex but without motor(s) and/or RC, * More complex and with motor(s) and RC, * Less complex but without motor(s) and/or RC, * Less complex and with motor(s) and RC, * Stay in the same "choice/production system by LEGO" or, * Leave the moddings/mods to the MOC creators? You may say that "it depends", you may say that "the topic is stupidly created because some are more into classic models with lots of mechanical but not motorized/RC parts, some do, so there is no definitive answer to this", BUT, I would kindly like to have your OWN thoughts. For example; I would like to see a Bugatti Chiron Set which has the same complex system, but also being able to be remote controlled and capable of reaching at least 25 km/h. Take this topic like a poll with detailed answers with intra-members-communication, as well. I hope I made myself clear. Many thanks in advance and, Best Regards, Idris
  3. Here's a build, I simply had to post here... Basically it's a heavy transporter, which uses 3XL motors powered by BuWizz which can carry a weight of a child and use that to tow a real life Macan: And behind the scenes video with more info about the development: For me this was one of my biggest and most impressive achivements, especially when you think about the forces we are dealing with here... Any ideas what should be the next pull?
  4. I present my newest trial truck, a pretty special one, this Mercedes Uniknick: (folder: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=515930 ) ORIGINAL: http://www.brickshel...spiration02.jpg This construction has central steering, this allows to have only one gear from the driving motors to the wheels. Reduction is 5:1, or 3:1 (has enough torque with it). I didn't want to make an average central steered vehicle like dump trucks, so I decided to add something new. One of the problems was the stability. This kind of off road vehicles like to fall over, that's enough when one section(front or rear) is turned 90 degrees. So this one has a linked like suspension, but with gears and turntables instead of links( not my idea, TT made it in this truck: ): So this construction allows to do these at the same time: There is two version from this truck, one with PP wheels(secondary version) and the one with cutom RC4WD crawler tyres(primary model). The PP wheeled truck weights 1767 g, the crawler wheeled 1423 g. I know, it looks much better and realistic with the RC4WD tyres, that's the main reason I used them. The tyres give a bit better climbing abilities (PP wheels are still good), the highest obstacle was 1,5 times bigger than the wheels's diameter. For steering there is one XL motor to have enough power to do it. It's necessary because of the 16 t turntable driving gears, there are two of them, one on each side to make the steering reliable. There weren't any problem with it. Front lights: The hardest part in the building process was to make the central part, to be reliable and functional with keeping the proportions of the original Uniknick. I made a video for each version. Note the PP wheels abilities compared to the crawler tyre. RC4WD Crawler wheel: PP wheel: Hope you like it.
  5. Im new to this forum so hi everyone ;) i have fun with PF from few months, and i want to buy a li-po and customize it to lego, i got two of real power hungry buggy motors, and i want to feed em' as much as i can :D I only need to know which voltage is maximum for motors, and for reciever, i have maken a research across internet, and ive heard that motors can handle max 16volts , and reciever just 9 volts, but ive heard too that motors can handle max 12 volts and that reciever too, on many forums i have read different numbers, so i have to ask here :) i have found light and small 14,8 volt li po 850 mah, in good price and i like it, but i dont want to burn my buggy motors and rest of PF, im wondering too about rc unit voltage, if it have 6 aa 1,5v bateries fully charged, it could generate 9v as normal pf battery box but when i compared them, rc unit is way better, and buggy motors are way faster, i hope that someone can help me :)
  6. Just recently I upgraded my crawler with 2 xl's. I connected them + servo motor to one V2 receiver. Turns out That two wheelbases spin the wheels different directions. i connected a 2nd receiver to the same BB and put the servo on there. I used both ports on the V2 receiver to make the wheels go the same direction. I am not sure if that is a very good fix. Is there any other way to have the motors spin the same direction? How did you do it? Kind regards - Alex, 12y.o
  7. So after 3 months of working in another town, away from my precious bricks, I am back! I had to return the 4 borrowed wheels from the fox, so I came up with an idea to make a smaller 4x4 off roader with the same amount of power. This is the crazy result: If you look from the side, you can see the model is quite short for its size, which is good for offroading. Also notice the 8 hard shock absorbers giving this beast a lot of suspension travel. There is even an interrior, which can be accessed via gullwing openable doors: I am very proud of the styling, there are no major gaps and almost no straight or perpendicular lines. Now for the performance... I found a way to harness the power of 2XL motors/wheel without breaking gears (too often that is). Each XL motor is placed on opposite sides of the swinging half axle so that their torques cancel each other out, therebye having minimal effect on suspension. The only gears capabale of withstanding such torque at perpendicular angle are of course knob gears. The hub assembly is simillar to the one used in the Fox, but with built CV joints capable of handling 2x the XL motor torque. But even so sometimes an 8 tooth gear may fail if a foreign object is jamed between gears and the wheel is blocked Even though the models tends to kill gears on occasion its still quite relaible for its massive weight of some 4 kilograms. Dimensions: Length: 47 cm Width: 25 cm Height: 21 cm Here's the video of the Jaguar in action: Oh and of course the most important picture of them all Though there's not much to see, but I like the arrangment of the components, its clean.
  8. Hi! I made a few crawlers until now, and I wanted to create something new, with more fun. So I decided to add a lot of power in a lightweight chassis to be the crawler fast, but also capable. My goal was to make the most simple and effective Lego rock crawler: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=538615 I used a flexible frame as suspension, this helps to keep it lighter, there is no need for a lot of parts to create a 4 link or other suspension. As you can see below in the video, this "suspension" also works well on terrain. Has LiPo battery, and V2 IR receiver. There are two receivers, two XL motor is connected to each, there are 4 XL motors in total. After the motor's output, a 24:12 gearing (deceleration) is built in, so the wheel spins about 85 rpm, which allows to reach 1,7 km/h. The wheelbase-width ratio is similar to real RC crawlers. I tried to add a big ground clearance, there was no problem with it. It's an advantage of this flexible chassis, there is nothing under the middle of the vehicle. The wheels are RC4WD 1,9" Rock Crusher XT's, their weight helps a lot of the stabilization of the vehicle. The XL motors are placed low, they also help to have a better center of gravity. I added a simple body, with more crawler-like look, than in my previous crawlers. Steering: One M motor steers the two XL motors in the front axle. These motors are connected to mini turntables to be more stable and robust. The steering ratio is 5:1. http://www.brickshel...16_1280x960.jpg I used strong pins from 8842 to make stronger connections in the axles. All the motors and the main parts are connected together with these: Weight: 1105 g. I don't know yet the number of pieces, but it can be about 200. A 720p video: Most interesting parts: 01:11 ; 01:37 ; 03:16 What do you think?
  9. Hello, sorry if this would better fit in a general thread, but here I go. Together with my lover we both have a 9398 to play around with. I've upgraded mine with 2XL motors instead of the usual L ones. It works really well even without any differentials. But now we want to upgrade the other one to 4XL motors. Now we ain't too sure about how to do it without destroying how the truck looks like. Switching the motors wasn't much of a change, but now with 4 XL, 2 B.Packs and 2 IR it might gets a little cramped. So does anyone have done something similar? Even a 4XL crawler base would be nice to look at, didn't found any :/ And if someone has some kind of build for a motorised Unimog that would be nice to see too. Like details and such. Well.... I'll keep this thread updated as we progress... :P
  10. Hello! I present my latest crawler: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=538333 I wanted to make something totally new crawler construction. During the last months, some variation was made (little upgrades), this wast he first: My goal was to made a very simple and reliable crawler, which is able to take apart in competitions. It was succesful in Malug crawler races. Crawlers are relatively free-made, so the bodywork isn't made after a picture from reality. One important thing: you may noticed, it has a relatively large wheel base. To have the good wheelbase/ground clearance ratio, I also increased ground clearance. All depends on the terrain, it can be as good as short wheelbase. With a long one, it's more stable against falling backwards. It has "no" suspension, the chassis is strong enough but felxible to give articulation for the axles: (this makes it simplier) The next varation (V2) was made with longitudinal strenghtening to prevent the decreasing of ground clearance in the middle: The non Lego tyres: RC4WD 1,9" rock crusher XT. The chassis shows the innovation: It's driven with two XL motors (in the axles), on M motor steers. The additional M motor and ship weight in the front axle is only for weight, they have no functions. More weight on the front axle helps a lot in terrain. The bodywork in not too strong, but who cares with that in a crawler. Lightweight construction was important. In the video below, you can see some high-speed recording about a falling of a piece from the body. More pictures: In competition: http://www.brickshel...ler-No2/019.jpg http://www.brickshel...ler-No2/020.jpg http://www.brickshel...ler-No2/021.jpg Video: This is totally different than my previous videos. Was made with 30 fps (instead of 10) and 1080p HD resolution. I don't say, I will make every video in this way (requires a lot HDD space, sometimes unnecessary), but the more important or bigger mocs will be recorded similar. So the video: Hope you like it.
  11. I recently purchased 2 XL motors from Lego direct. I noticed one of the motors has a higher pitched sound, almost a slight grind. It spins up faster and slows down slower than the other XL motor which sounds smooth and stops quicker. Has anyone noticed differences between one motor to the next? When direct coupling motors without a differential one motor will be straining more than the other which can't be good. I am curious if I should contact Lego about this noise and speed variance between the two.
  12. So after a week of tinckering and improviments on the new portal hub assembly I give you the Titan! For now I have only these 2 pictures, but more will follow soon: As you can see, its powered by 4 XL motors, each wheel has one geared down 5x, giving it teh highest total torque in any of my models. The motors are also structual parts, holding the axles together. For steering there is a mini LA for each axle, capable of steering angle of 30 degrees. Due to the way axles are built I wasnt able to use the 4 parallel links to stop the axles from swaying side to side, but instead used a small panhrod. Suspension allows for a total of some 60 degrees of flex and even though I used the hardest springs, its still pretty soft. I will give more info tommorow when I eill record the Titan in action. Cheers!
  13. I wanted to know if anyone has tested the difference between the following setups with V2 IR: Two XL motors with a (3:1) 36 driver to 12 follower or (5:1) 40 Driver to 8 Follower VS. two L-Motors with the same Setup. The reason I ask is because right now I put together a setup of Two L motors running (3:1) 24 to 8 direct output to an axle without a differential. It hauls pretty well. After researching more about coupling motors on Philo's website I am surprised to find out his reasearch shows minor advantages to coupling. When running a single L motor with the same 24 to 8 gearing I had less torque and top speed took longer to achieve. I am waiting for a couple of orders to arrive to test the various gear ratios and motor couplings, I didn't want to rip apart my sets at this time.