T Lego

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  1. Hi Nura, thank you for sharing your beautiful and technically advanced rendition of the GTI here on the forum. I appreciate the effort you put into making those axles with realistic geometry. The gearbox looks simple but effective, great job! Have you considered making the gearbox sequential with a stepper mechanism? That's obviously a mayor lego technic challenge many builders have been struggeling with. You did a great job on the bodywork. Would you mind uploading some more pictures of the car? I realy love the front and rear headlights That rollcage is pretty awesome too! My only complaint here is the look of the fenders. I am not a fan of the 'beams over flex axles' method to replicate curves. Why didn't you bring the flex axles all the way down to the skirts? Great model!
  2. I can recommend to use a digital disigner as a helping tool. I prefer to design axles/suspension setups, complex mechanisms and bodywork physically. The former and latter need to be tested frequently to ensure it works properly and messing with putting panels at crazy angles is also easier to do physically. I prefer to design the chassis digitally though. All of this is based on my personal experience and remains an opinion. Decide what you think works best for you. Looking forward to your WIP topic!
  3. If you want do design a 1:8 scale supercar, you should start with the design parameters. Which wheels am I going to use? Which functions do I want to include? In what color should I build the bodywork? What kinds of compromises are you willing to make? In other words, try to get a good idea how you want your finished model to look like. I can highly recomend to start with the chassis and build your way outwards (I always start with the axles). Use sariel's model scaler to get all proportions right and make sure, when you are designing your chassis, you leave enough room for the bodywork. Creating a good looking bodywork is simply a try and error process but there are a few things that you should IMO keep in mind.. -try to use as many panels as possible in addition to several flex axles and connectors, (avoid liftarmstacking) -try to capture basic lines with these parts -Stay consistent in your style Hope this helps you out
  4. T Lego

    Ferrari FXX 2005 1:8 new version

    You have done a great job sir! The overall appearance is much more appealing than the original. Some areas are a bit messy (the hood and the front fender), mainly due to stacking too many liftarms and panels. I know very well how hard it is to capture the lines of a ferrari and since you have so little experience building mocs yourself, you should be proud of your result! Judging from the side view, I suppose you modified the doors too - is that correct?
  5. T Lego

    [MOC] LEGO TECHNIC AUDI RS7

    lovely car man! I realy like like the shaping, the ligthts and the air suspension. It is nice to see a more 'normal' car come across every now and then. Great model
  6. Thank you very much for your suggestions, I appreciate your input here! Moving the panel up half a stud works perfect! I couldn't use your first idea, beceause, like you suposed, it interfered with the knee joint mechanism. The side view is much better now. I won't change the instructions or partslist.
  7. Thanks everyone for the compliments! You've made my day It motivates me to continue my current WIP Thanks for your feedback! I agree about your critics. Here is a fix for the ugly gap:
  8. Thanks for the compliments everyone! Regarding the doors: since the pinhole is only 0.5 studs deep that can easily happen, but it doesn't get forced outwards. Regarding the drivetrain: I agree it looks overcomplicated, but it was the only way I could connect the engine with the diff. If I wanted to go directly up from the U joint to connect to engine, I would also have to come forward, which would take a bite from the interior. Despite it looking complicated, it does works very smooth.
  9. The LaFerrari represents Ferrari’s most ambitious project yet to push the boundaries of technology on a road car. Only 499 units were produced, and each cost more than 1 million US dollars since its release back in 2013. My replica had to be as authentic as possible to the real masterpiece when it comes to both functionality and aesthetics. Therefore I chose for the classis manual chassis rather than a remote controlled version instead. Off coarse I used Sariel’s model scaler to get all proportions right Specifications: -Length: 53 Studs (42 cm); Width 21 Studs (17 cm); height: 12.5 Studs (9.5 cm) -Weight: 1100 g -Parts count: 1566 pcs Features: -RWD -Front and rear independent suspension -Working fake mini V12 engine (by crowkillers) -Steering with HOG control and positive Caster angle -Working diffuser flaps which deploy when steered (Brunojj1’s idea) -Modular bodywork (easily detachable to reveal chassis) -Openable butterfly doors with HOG control -Openable engine bay with knee joint mechanism Considering it’s scale, the parameters I wanted to include were not easy to achieve at all, resulting in many headaches throughout the design process. The doors are a perfect example: their opening movement had as realistic as possible whilst not interfering with any of the other bodywork or front wheels, as they are part of the fender. When fully opened, the doors also needed to lock into place and they had to be operated using HOGs. The engine bay was a nightmare to design too. Very complicated curves had to be replicated with limited space for connectors to put the panels at the right angles. It Interfering with the chassis was a big bottleneck as well. I am quite satisfied with the result of my dream hypercar replication, therefore I took the opportunity to make high quality renders building instructions using Stud.io. Building instructions and parts list are available here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-29075/T-Lego/ferrari-laferrari/#admin More pictures at my bricksafe: https://bricksafe.com/pages/T_Antonie/ferrari-laferrari Constructive critics, feedback and questions are as always appreciated! Enjoy your day
  10. T Lego

    Is this mod possible?

    Like @Gray Gear said it won't be possible unless you modify it's chassis seriously. But there is certainly enough space to do a gearbox swap.
  11. Wow dude that new exhaust looks perfect Are those 1x2 Liftarms at the side necessary to keep the diffuser rigid? I think would look better without them.
  12. T Lego

    [MOC] Experimental Supercar

    Thanks! I fully understand it now. Very ingenious solution
  13. T Lego

    [MOC] Experimental Supercar

    Great Job! like others have said before, I would also like to see some more details of the suspension.
  14. T Lego

    Graveyard of the failed MOCs

    I like the idea of a topic like this. Failed MOCs can still give inspiration to other builders and we can perhabs learn from each others mistakes. About a year ago I was busy working a 7+R speed dual clutch gearbox for 1:10 scale RC car using the new chiron parts. LDD file: https://bricksafe.com/files/isamudyson/random/7%2BR Gearbox.lxf The gearbox, like real dual clutch, consists of two gearboxes: for odd and even gears. The idea was to use the same gearbox for odd speeds and even speeds but gear up one of the two in such way that all ratios would fall inbetween the other one. The rotary catches would be geared down by a factor of two and have an 45 degree offset from each other so that only one gear was engaged at the same time. Sadly though I had lots of trouble with fitting all PF components and there was barely space to brace other gears in the drivetrain which meant gears slipt all the time. For that reason I took it appart. I learned from my mistakes and I will be working on an improved version in the near future.
  15. Brilliant!! Great suspension replication and I love that the mirrors move with the doors. Another great thing is the koenigsegg "tranformers" mode, which can be controlled in the same as the real car. The bodywork looks very nice! Great panel and system bricks usage. The front part looks IMO the most accurate. My only minor complaints are that the rear diffusor and exhaust look too bulky and that the range of motion of the clam shells is so limited. Have you tried to put the mini actuators more closely to the pivot points? I am looking forward to the the dark azure version and the video.