T Lego

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About T Lego

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    Male
  • Location
    Utrecht

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    The Netherlands

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  1. Thank you for building it in LDD! I can’t take a picture yet beceause I am on vacation. I will be home within a week, so then I can send you a close up. Are you able to finish the gearbox itself (without limiter) without that info?
  2. https://bricksafe.com/pages/T_Antonie/ Done Let me know if you have any questions.
  3. I don't, but I can PM you some more detailed pictures so you can reverse engineer it if you want.
  4. Hi, I want to share my 7+R gearbox here. The main idea was to design an advanced gearbox for 1:10 scale supercars, so it had to be compact. The gearbox consists of two of @Didumos69's 4 speed gearboxes. I modified the first one to substitute first gear with a reverse and I geared up the second 4 speed gearbox by 1.2. I geared up Reverse gear by 1.2 as well, so that first gear and reverse have the same ratio. R) 0.72 1) 0.72 2) 0.75 3) 0.9 4) 1 5) 1.2 6) 1.25 7) 1.5 So this gearbox is basically a dual clutch gearbox, since it has a gearbox for odd and even speeds. Actually the gearbox has no clutches (yet). The shifting meganism has a 90 degree limiter hidden inside and it is connected to two rotary catches by a 12- and 24 teeth gear. Every time you shift, the rotary catches rotates 45 degrees. I was hoping that when the rotary catch is at a 45 degree angle, no gears are engaged, so that when the other rotary catch is in a normal 90 degree position I can connect output 1 and 2 without dual clutch. In reality though, this is not a reliable solution. When the rotary catch is at a 45 degree angle, the driving rings can move 2 mm toward the driving ring and engage a gear. When I tested the gearbox with a motor, I found that sometimes only one output rotates and sometimes two. Conclusion: I still need a dual clutch meganism. (I will try to integrate it into above the rear axle) Let me know what you think. Sugestions for improvements are apreciated!
  5. @ndm1306 Thanks! LvdH is right, it wouldn’t be fair to make instructions for this MOD and besides I don’t have Any experience with making digital building instructions. If you are seriously interested in building this, I say you should start building the @PvdbOne:1 (withouten gearbox and shift meganism) and then you can send me a PM if you want detailed info/pictures.
  6. I have finished my motorized mod of this one:1 yesterday: the RS1. In pauls one:1, I especially liked the door meganism.
  7. Changed the title! The gear ratio is indeed 12:20. It has plenty of torque to drive in 8:24 too.
  8. Hello everyone, I'd like to share my latest MOD: Koenigsegg Agera RS1 This car is one of my favorite road-going super/hyper/megacars, and therefore I decided to build it. To me and many others, Koenigsegg is a very special car manufacturer: It was founded in the nineties by Cristian von Koenigsegg, a man without any engineering education background and budget. On top of that, all Koenigseggs are handcrafted and are produced in limited quantities. I like the RS in particular, beceause it is IMO the most beautifull Koenigsegg and it holds the top speed world record. This car is not fully designed by me. @Pvdb build the Koenigsegg one:1 more than two years ago. The RS1 and One:1 have very similar Bodyworks and since Pvdb nailed that on his One:1, i decided to use his bodywork as a shell around my disigned chassis. In addition to that, I also used his door meganism, beceause I could not imagine me designing a better one Specifications: Dimensions 59x27x15 Studs Weight: 2600 g Estimated parts quantity: 2500 parts Powerfuntion elements: 2x PF AAA batteries, 2x PF V2 reciever ,4x PF L motor, 1x PF Servo motor, 1x PF M motor, 2x PF 50 cm wire The RS1 is basically the same as any other RS, but it has the one MegaWatt engine upgrade. The RS1 is specced in white with a black center stripe and it has many blue accents such as the interior, skirts, spoiler, diffuser and front splitter. Many of those parts of the RS1 have just a very thin stripe of blue painted on it. This means you can not replicate that with regulare LEGO parts. Stickers seemed like the only solution, but at some point the idea to use rubber bands for some accents popped in my mind. I only used this trick in the front splitter. Features: Easily removable Roof, like the real car Openable front trunk and engine bay Motorized dihedral synchro-helix actuation doors, Powered by a PF M motor Front double wishbone suspension with negative caster angle Rear triplex suspension with double wishbones Steering with working steering wheel, powered by a PF Servo motor Propulsion with working V8 engine, powered by 4x PF L motor I wanted both doors to be opeable by just one motor. This meant I had to make selector for wich door is connected to the motor. I had some free space in the center tunnel, so I decided to use the handbrake as a selector. Just behind the front wheels there is a driving ring wich can engage in two different clutch gears. Both clutch gears are connected to different doors. The motor and this meganism is placed underneath the trim. Here is the full 'transformer mode'. The front trunk and engine cover can be opened manually. If you look closely, you can see the battery and The L motors behind the seats. The recievers are placed behind the rear axle. Replicating the triplex suspension was for me a 'must have' on this car. It consists of two inclined shock absorbers and a horizontally placed pneumatic cilinder. The pneumatic cilinder is definately the most realistic looking way to make the central shock, but it is not practical. It offers resistance when extending and retracting, so I mounted some springs behind it to ensure that the model doesn't sag. In addition to all of that I also put some links on the suspension system. They are only there for an aesthetic reason though. finally, a video demonstration. Enjoy! Comments and questions are welcome!
  9. Yes it provides enough power. In one of my MOCs I used 4 L-motors with just one buwizz and it worked perfectely.
  10. 1 is enough, but you need to split the 4 L-motors over two Buwizz outputs
  11. Thanks for your reply! You are right about the battery. I wont use it and i'll wait for a reply of @Ron1
  12. I have a very weird issue with my BuWizz 2.0. I have not seen anybody having such an issue. As you can see, the plastic casing is bowing outwards. Not only on the sides, but also underneath. This means I can't place it anymore on lego plates and in between 4x8 stud areas and therefore it's unusable in my MOCs. It began as a small curve and got bigger and bigger. Now, I can clearly see some of the internals (all the hardware works perfectely fine). It is also not possible to bow it back to it's original position. I have sent the Buwizz-team an E-mail but they do not respond.
  13. Placing a half stud bush in the shockabsorber adds stiffness but it would decrease travel by 50%, so I don't think it is a proper solution...
  14. OK, now I have modified the triplex suspension. The resistance of the pneumatic cilinder is now countered by two extra springs mounted on the V8. On top of that I added some extra links. Useless but now the engine bay looks much more realistic. It should now be fully useable in @Pvdb's model.
  15. My current WIP is a mod of your one:1: a remote controlled Agera RS1, owned by whitesse JR. In my car the cilinder works fits perfectly. The only downside is that it offers resistance, wich I am currently trying to fix. (without pneumatic components)