Legotyres

Eurobricks Vassals
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About Legotyres

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  1. Here are some static images of the coding of above hope it helps someone in the future Cheers, Legotyres
  2. Couple of videos of the car remote control designed to work with a gearbox With help from Brian Madsen who kindly sent me a working counter, I’ve extended it so that it also works with Neutral There is also a fine adjuster as I’ve noticed it moves slightly when shifting the gears, so to combat future coding, I thought I add it I’ll create a PDF document with the coding so everyone can use it A couple of videos for anyone who wishes to use the code before the PDF of what it working The gearbox being used isn’t the correct one as that should be an 10 speed which should have 8 forward gears, neutral and reverse Enjoy, Legotyres
  3. Sometimes it’s easier to show what I’m trying to achieve, so here is a video clip of the controller. This is only first stage and as you can see the gear counter fails at 1 Cheers, Legotyres
  4. So, I can see ab, just returns a value of 1. So the second storage isn’t that. I’ve tried the others and mod seems promising although using does nothing to the calculation
  5. Hi @Andman, @vascolp From the video, I can see that some of the coding looks like this a = 0 b = a + 1 c = ab + button or counter? either way, it still returns a value of 1 and goes no further Cheers again, Legotyres
  6. Hi @Andman, @vascolp I’ve changed the code so many times, I honestly cannot remember where I’m at anymore this is similar to the original coding and adds 1 then stops when I hit button four. If I hit it again, nothing happens which tells me I need to store that number. if I press button 5, will display -1 when I’ve pressed one of the two two buttons, it flickers through 1 and -1 with me having to end the program this looked to be because of the loop system as it stops when removed like I’ve said, it’s pickled my head and I’ve gone back to designing a 10 speed gearbox as it’s easier (plus I used to code PHP and cannot get my head around these block things) here’s the coding Cheers in advance for the help, Legotyres
  7. Hi @NikosSprocket I,m hoping you can help! I can see you have created a great little piece of coding for a gear selector identifier and I’ve been trying to figure one out without much success for my own MOC Have you any coding suggestions on how you achieved it or would you be happy to share a screen shot showing the process of how you achieved it? I'd be very grateful Cheer, Legotyres
  8. Some of the gearbox came about by accident in truth. I’d made a few different four speed version and thought, I’d like to add a neutral and reverse like with Landrover. So I started with the black gearboxes were a few tests expecting to run with two selectors. But, then I thought I’d try and see if one selector would work. I had work out that the rotation had run the opposite direction plus include a stepper and once I figured that out, things just seemed to drop into place. I'm really happy that 1st and reverse are identical ratio's too. This was by chance though and not by design. If you look at one of the shorts that says instruction, I’ve added a step by step photo. There is a couple of mistakes in there though, so check all the photo first before building, but most of the shorts show how it evolved and should give all the clues you should need to make your own. I’ve even included a simple (orange sequential) selector just showing the rotation I'll put some more videos up once the new green clutch z20 gears arrive (already ordered from Lego) That’s how my last gearbox started and knew that option had a neutral and reverse in it i think the reason there isn’t more 6 speed gearbox of this nature is the friction which the new Z12 and Z20 gears remove
  9. Just noticed this post and for anyone interested, I’ve finally managed to create a true FWD transverse MOC (front end chassis). I’m hoping to squeeze it into the front end of a Classic Mini or maybe a Golf Mk1 when time allows (it might be a while though as I’ve been messing with on and off for five years now) It has a transversely mounted 6 speed sequential gearbox (R-N-1-2-3-4), fake 4 cylinder engine and differential. Steering with my own macpherson suspension. The gearbox selector allows you to access all gears via it from what will be the inside of the car. Be aware, it’s just a chassis, but thanks to the new Z20 and Z12 gears, the issues with friction with this type of gear box is gone. There are plenty of YouTube Clips and Shorts on my channel to which show some of the evolution over the last five years too. As far as I’m aware, this it the very first true Front Wheel Drive Transverse MOC just like a rear car created out of none illegal lego building YouTube clip of a genuine FWD transverse MOC
  10. Well, I gave up on the last one and since then, Lego have introduced some new parts. So I’m in the very very early stages of trying another transverse Lego Technic MOC I’ll post some better images soon. Unlike the last one, I’ve managed to add a F-N-R and the sequential side is a four speed Still got to add the steering and suspension, so please don’t get to excited First and reverse have the identical ratio to which is nice
  11. Here is another variation of my long endeavour to create proper homage to the b-model of 8865 which has to be my most favourite technic model. Even this model has gone through a few changes, although I feel Its complete. This model has an identical wheelbase and track as the original, the seating area is a little larger to fit in the 5+r gearbox in plus its a proper 4x4 model unlike the original. It has a fake V8 plus a tiny fan at the front taken from Legos boat propeller. The live axle at the rear is both compact and has a larger movement than the original. I'm still using a macpherson struts at the front which seem to work very well. Enjoy the photos anyway
  12. If you use the smaller 62mm tyres, they’re not perfect although they work. Using wider tyres ensures they do not taper outwards at the bottom though. Although it’s not massive. It’s a little bug-barer With the springs, you don’t need to use the yellow ones. I’ve two models shown in my posts which use the large springs. These only require grey or black one. The yellow ones as just to strong and are not required. It the same with the small springs, light or dark grey ones are perfect. im pleased with the springs, I cannot take credit for them as they have evolved over the models and when I’ve seen another option, I’ve seen if it will work better than another. If it did, it replaced the original design and if not, it stayed to same Both spring types work fine though Looking at how wide your engine bay is, this macpherson solution will not work due to the angles required to give the springs there strength. It’s only 13 wide at the top which is what dictated where the gearbox sat
  13. That’s awesome and makes mine look a little naff i really like the gearbox idea. I’ve sorted the ratios for the gearbox on mine, although I got to figure out how to even put the drive from differential to the gearbox. That’s where the friction is coming from. Looks like the ratios are creating two much of a friction when first gear is selected. Have you seen my instructions for a mechanical correct macpherson strut. I’ve posted photo instruction on here via flicker. I cannot take credit for then as it’s evolved from other versions I’ve seen and been able to incorporate into it
  14. Have you any pic’s. Be interested in seeing someone else’s design. Ive the Unimog hubs with some low profile tyres on it which should give you an idea how big the model is.
  15. Aye, that 7 seater model is awesome. One of the best builds I think I’ve seen